DIY antiseptic impregnation for wood. Impregnation for wood, do it yourself How to make impregnation for wood

Contents:

Wood is one of the main building materials in human history. He has mass positive qualities: affordable, simple, easy to process, has a beautiful texture, retains heat well.

IN in capable hands Wood can be used to make many different products and designs. But this wonderful material has significant drawback– microorganisms and insects love it.

For them, a tree is an excellent natural substrate where they can reproduce, feed and increase the population without problems.

Especially good conditions For the development of pests, positive temperatures and high humidity are created. For elimination negative phenomena inside the wood, the material is dried and impregnated with special compounds.

Many different types of wood have been invented to protect wood. chemicals, which are produced by industry. They are effective in most cases, but many of them have increased toxicity. Suitable remedy you can prepare it at home yourself.

Below we will look at the types and methods of making antiseptics at home for wood processing.

Types of antiseptics

According to their purpose, any wood impregnation can be internal use and external. The first group improves the characteristics of indoor wood products, for example, furniture, wall coverings, floors, etc.

Antiseptics do not allow insects and fungi to develop inside the material.

Great demands are placed on impregnations for external use. They help wood products and structures not only resist microorganisms and insects, but also protect the material from rain, wind and sunlight.

To impregnate wood, compositions based on on different basis: water, oil or volatile organic matter Oh. To improve properties, additives of organic and inorganic origin, for example, metal oxides, are introduced. They create a protective effect against ultraviolet radiation.

Today in Russia you can see many gray wooden houses. These are the consequences of the destruction of the coloring pigment by sunlight.

The most popular today are antiseptics based on water based, since they are more compliant with environmental standards. The compositions can be used in the form of surface coatings and impregnations. Coatings create a protective film on the surface that prevents moisture and microorganisms from entering the material. Often the compositions are tinted and have an additional decorative function.

Impregnations are means of deep penetration and create protective layer about a centimeter inside the wood.

Making your own antiseptics

Impregnation for wood with your own hands is quite possible home handyman, because in the process of its production inexpensive and accessible components are used.

Bitumen-based antiseptic

The composition prepared on bitumen helps preserve poorly dried wood, has the property of deep penetration into the material and allows the wood to “breathe”.

To make it, you take an unnecessary metal vessel like an old bucket or pan. Bitumen is placed inside and the container is placed on fire. After the material has boiled, the metal utensils are removed and the bitumen is diluted diesel fuel. The amount of diesel fuel is selected experimentally. The finished cooled composition should retain its fluidity.

To create a quick-drying, deep-penetration antiseptic, gasoline is added instead of diesel fuel. In this case, the bitumen should not be heated, but should be quietly mixed and waited for it to dissolve in gasoline.
After application, the composition penetrates to a depth of up to 6 mm and creates reliable protection wooden structures.

The dried surface can be covered with a layer of primer and then painted or varnished. Nitrovarnishes and nitro paints cannot be used for coating.

Impregnation based on sodium fluoride

The composition for impregnating wood can be created on a water basis with sodium fluoride. Its main purpose is to create a protective layer to retain moisture.
For production, sodium fluoride powder is taken and diluted to 3-4% concentration in cold water. The finished solution is applied under pressure using special airless devices at a temperature of about 15 degrees.

Finished wood should not be coated or in contact with chalk, lime or gypsum because sodium fluoride reacts with them chemical reaction and ceases to perform protective antifungal functions.

After drying, the treated material can be coated with paints. oil based, varnish or wax.

Oil based impregnation

Environmental safety gives preference to components of natural origin, which is why they are so popular. The treatment does not cause allergies and is widely used indoors. There is no need to worry about the health of children, pregnant women, people with allergies or asthma.

The main ingredient is hemp or flaxseed oil. In addition to high protective properties, the treatment performs a decorative function, giving the wooden surface beautiful colour and shine.

Oil impregnation can be used to treat not only indoor objects, but also external wooden surfaces. It is well suited for floors, furniture, doors, window frames, log houses. Wood impregnated with oil is not afraid of moisture, fungus and insects.

As an additive, you can use extracts of elecampane, galangal, angelica root, and burdock. The tanning components they contain help strengthen the structure of the wood.

Oil treatment improves the appearance, emphasizes and restores the texture, imparts dirt- and water-repellent properties, increases the service life of products and structures, and protects the surface from fading, peeling and cracking. After treatment, the wood can “breathe”, although it does not let moisture in.

Wax antiseptic

Treating the surface of wood with wax is used after deep impregnation based on oils. Wax additionally protects deep layers from possible penetration of water, protects the surface from possible mechanical damage, and makes the material durable. pleasant aroma and emphasizes the beauty of the texture.

Wax impregnation can be used not only indoors, but also for treating the external surfaces of structures. The substances contained in the composition prevent the wood from fading and peeling and give it a pleasant matte appearance.

To prepare this natural antiseptic, take two parts wax and one part turpentine. If wooden products will come into contact with products, it is better to replace turpentine with vegetable oil. You need twice as much of it as wax. As additional component rosin is used.

The process of preparing the composition is simple. One hundred grams of wax are placed in a suitable container and heated in a water bath, then 25 grams of pre-crushed rosin and 50 grams of turpentine are added there.

The mixture is heated to a boil and left to cool. For aroma, you can add propolis or dry mint. The cooled mastic is rubbed into the wood with a cloth until it shines.

To speed up the process of applying antiseptic, you can use a special spray bottle.

Video: Antiseptic wood

The range of wood impregnations is huge. Their choice must be approached carefully, so that later you do not have to regret about a damaged wooden item or destroyed walls of the house. Before purchasing a coating, you should find out for what purpose the impregnation is intended.

To prevent wood from being affected by fungus and bacteria, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic.

For work, you can use DIY wood impregnation, which has certain advantages and disadvantages.

Wood and its destructive factors

Today it is fashionable and prestigious to have wooden antiques in the house or to build on summer cottage wooden sauna. Wooden items are susceptible to destruction by factors such as:

Mold on wood leaves permanent stains and also destroys its structure.

• putrefactive bacteria;
• grinder beetles;
• mushrooms.

Putrefactive bacteria destroy wood in conditions high humidity. Fungi leave indelible stains on wood and destroy its structure. In a humid environment, mold spores also form in wood.

Impregnation is necessary to rid wood of damage caused to it by various unfavorable factors. external environment. The wood preservation process is implemented during each stage of construction, as well as:

• during the preparation of lumber;
• in the manufacture of new structures made of wood;
• to protect wood from fire, moisture, and destruction by harmful microorganisms.

Types of antiseptic impregnations for wood

Antiseptic agents help protect wood from wood borers.

Modern protective compounds are made using organic substances, oil-based compounds and water-based ones. Environmentally friendly products are the most successful. They are selected depending on the type of wood.

Primer impregnation is designed to save base material when processing wood. It is used on initial stage technological process, before applying varnish or paint. Treatment with priming impregnation ensures even application of all layers. Many types of primer treatment compounds impart water-repellent properties to wood.

To give the wood a certain shade, color impregnation is used. The stain emphasizes the wood structure and colors the wood in required colors. Multifunctional impregnations can perform several actions, for example:

• protect from high temperatures;
• prevent the destruction of wood by wood-boring beetles.

The water-based impregnation is universal in use, easy to apply, and dries in a few hours. Compositions made with organic solvents take much longer to dry, up to 2-3 days.

Nitrocellulose is a compound that ensures the stain dries quickly in 10-15 minutes.

Wood processing must be carried out in special protective suits, masks and gloves.

A good water-based impregnation is characterized by the property of highlighting the internal texture of a wooden surface. The coating is resistant to light rays and has dirt-repellent properties. The process of applying it does not present any great difficulties: drops and streaks do not form on the working surface.

Water-based impregnation protects wood from moss and fungal spores. It can be used to treat furniture, doors, windows. It contains pigments that have the ability to repel light rays. To apply the composition, you must purchase a special brush, when working with which the surface remains smooth and shiny.

Water-based impregnations do not contain organic solvents. There is no strong odor when applying them. To work, you should purchase the following tools in advance:

• brush;
• special device for spraying paint;
• nitro thinner;
• brass brush;
• soil for wood;
• colorless paint azure.

Mechanism for applying water-based impregnating composition

Antiseptic can be applied using a paint brush.

Before you start working with the impregnation, it must be mixed. Coating is carried out using a brush or other device that sprays paint onto a wooden surface. Wood with an uneven texture is coated with a darker color impregnation.

When working with exotic wood species, the surface must be treated with a nitro thinner.

Before applying the impregnation, the wood is swept with a brass brush. Outside, wooden parts are coated with impregnation twice.

Products made from coniferous and hardwood are primed with a special composition. The final layer of coating consists of colorless paint combined with azure. It is unacceptable for impregnation to come into contact with plastic parts.

Mastics, impregnation for wood parts

Any craftsman can make wood impregnation with his own hands using recipes based on bitumen. These compounds are much cheaper and have exceptional properties. When applied, they impregnate the wood to a depth of 7 mm.

Bitumen antiseptic is suitable for working with poorly dried wood: it freely penetrates into wood fibers.

The process of making antiseptics is simple. It is necessary to prepare the following materials for work:

• electric stove;
• bucket;
• bitumen;
• diesel fuel;
• kerosene;
• mastic.

Place a bucket on the electric stove, place M-5 or M-3 bitumen in it, heat it until it boils and bubbles appear. Then the container is removed from the stove and diesel fuel is added to it. Bitumen should become liquid when cold.

To prepare a kerosene-bitumen mixture, kerosene is used, which is introduced into the bitumen with great care. Bitumen is crushed and combined with kerosene until it is completely dissolved in it. The kerosene-bitumen composition is thick, and before starting work it is heated to a boil.

Gasoline-bitumen antiseptic cannot be heated: it can only be diluted with gasoline.

It is easy to apply oil products and enamels to the surface treated with the composition, with the exception of nitro varnish and nitro paint. The coating process consists of three stages: a primer and two paintings.

Using wood biocides at home

Linseed oil helps provide wooden products even more presentable appearance.

Preservatives used in direct contact with soil or water help preserve wood. The main components of impregnations are compounds of copper, chromium with the addition of zinc, fluorine or boron. Biological impregnations are reliable in operation, and they are easy to make with your own hands at home. It is enough to purchase a special container and antiseptic concentrate. To obtain the finished composition, the concentrate is poured into a prepared container and filled with water, mixing thoroughly.

Natural waxes and oils protect wooden surface from the action of water and atmospheric factors. The oil penetrates deep into the wood, creating a special layer impenetrable to gas, water, and steam. Wax protects products from the outside by forming a special breathable layer.

Linseed oil is an excellent material for protecting wooden structures. It is added to many products that are used for external and interior work. Linseed oil helps impregnations provide wooden products with a beautiful appearance. The oil is matched to the color of the wood by adding coloring compounds to it. Working with oils is safe for health.

Fire retardant compounds for wood impregnation

Fire retardant impregnation for wood.

Having made a wooden structure, it is necessary to protect it not only from mold, fungi, moss, but also from the effects of fire. For these purposes, flame retardants are used for wooden coverings. Special substances give wood fire-repellent properties. They prevent the spread of fire, make it easier to extinguish a fire and prolong the time it takes for wood to ignite.

To give wooden structures special properties against the action of flame, 2 types of impregnation are used: compositions based on aqueous solutions of salts and wood treatment with LMK.

Fire retardant composition, including non-toxic inorganic salts, applied to rafters, attic sheathing, parts of rooms and offices.

Before starting work, prepare the following tools and materials:

• alkaline cleaning solution;
• solvent;
• bucket;
• roller or brush.

Before applying the composition, the wood is dried and cleaned of dust and dirt. The permissible humidity of the treated wooden surface is 30%.

Before application, the impregnation composition is stirred with a spatula and then applied with a brush or roller to the work surface. The work is carried out at temperatures up to +5° C. The coating is carried out using protective gloves to avoid contact of the composition with the skin of the hands.

Fire retardant compounds provide first degree fire protection while fully preserving all the properties of wooden coatings. The solution, made by yourself, is suitable for work in country houses, residential and industrial buildings and does not have a negative impact on human health.

Having studied the market for products that prevent the destruction of wood, you can prevent the premature death of wooden structures by creating special solutions with your own hands.

Treating wood with high-quality antiseptics can significantly increase its service life.

They are intended for effective protection wooden structures from mold, rot and destruction, as well as to improve performance characteristics.

For this purpose, specially developed formulations that meet basic safety requirements are suitable.

Wood protection begins with choosing a suitable antiseptic.

Types of antiseptics and composition

Modern antiseptics are classified by composition, purpose and area of ​​use.

Depending on the main components that were used for production protective equipment, wood impregnation can be divided into the following types:

• Water soluble;
• Oil;
• Organic;
• Combined.

Water soluble

Impregnation on a water-soluble basis is intended for preventive maintenance of wood processing various types. Wood preservative is used to protect surfaces that are not exposed to water.

The following ingredients are used for the production of water-soluble antiseptics:

• Sodium silicofluoride;
• Sodium fluoride;
• BBK 3 ( boric acid and borax).

Oily

The most popular and sought-after type of antiseptic, which is used to protect wooden structures from increased moisture. The basis of such products is oils - anthracene, shale or coal.

Wood preservative gives the wood a dark, rich shade.

It does not dissolve in water, but has an increased flammability coefficient and a strong oily odor, therefore it is used exclusively for external work.

Organic

Organic impregnation is not so popular and is often used to protect external wooden structures.

An antiseptic for wood of this type creates a thin protective film on the treated surface, improving the moisture-absorbing and adhesive characteristics of wood.

The disadvantages include the possibility of painting surfaces in green color and an increase in their porosity.

In addition, such products have a negative effect on metal elements, promoting the development of corrosion processes.

Combined

Such antiseptic compositions successfully combine performance characteristics other types.

Purpose

Depending on the purpose, special wood protection is divided into two categories:

Based on the area of ​​use, wood antiseptics are divided into two categories:

1. For interior work. Impregnation of this type is used to protect structures and elements intended for interior spaces. Therefore, it is absolutely harmless and has no strong odor. It is important to remember that for each type of room you must choose the appropriate antiseptic.
2. For outdoor work. This category presents antiseptic impregnations and finishing agents intended for treating external wooden surfaces. They are wear-resistant and resistant to aggressive influences. Compositions for external use have a specific pungent odor, are resistant to high moisture, low temperatures and ultraviolet. It is better not to use them for interior work.

Choosing the best antiseptic

Effective protection of wood depends on which antiseptic was chosen. To choose suitable antiseptic compounds for wood, it is important to consider some factors:

• Manufacturer;
• Compound;
• Purpose and scope of use;
• Type of wood;
• Consumption per sq.m.;
• Effect on the human body;
• Quality certificates;
• Price.

A reliable antiseptic for wood should have a high toxicity rating against mold, mildew and harmful microorganisms.

No less important is the protective ability indicator. So wood protection can be ineffective, medium effective, effective and highly effective.

The finished product must fully correspond to the degree of damage to the wood. According to this characteristic, the antiseptic can be used on clean, uncontaminated, slightly contaminated and heavily contaminated wooden surfaces.

Impregnation for interior work must have an appropriate sanitary certificate indicating complete safety for indoor use. Preparations for external use must have high resistance to low temperatures and ultraviolet radiation.

What antiseptic drug is considered high quality? One that is well applied to the surface and is compatible with any paint and varnish material.

Before purchasing, you should carefully read the instructions for use and check the expiration date of the drug.

It is worth refusing to purchase antiseptics from unknown manufacturers that lack the necessary quality certificates, because high cost is not always an indicator of quality.

DIY antiseptic

You can prepare a protective antiseptic for wood yourself, which will be much cheaper than purchased analogues. Most often, homemade antiseptic compositions are prepared from iron sulfate and sodium fluoride.

Vitriolic

In volumetric plastic container pour in 100 g of iron sulfate and 10 g of potassium permanganate. Add 20 liters of water and stir thoroughly. Ready composition Apply to the surface to be treated using a brush or roller.

Sodium

To prepare an antiseptic you will need 25 kg of sodium fluoride and 400 liters of water.

It is better to apply the finished mixture to a wooden surface using the airless painting method. After drying, the wood is carefully sanded with a flap wheel and treated with finishing protective impregnations– oil, varnish or wax.

The difference between homemade and factory-made antiseptic preparations lies only in the components that are used for their production.

Ready-made factory impregnation is more effective due to the high content of organic components. It is toxic to humans and animals and must therefore be used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Do-it-yourself compositions are less practical and effective, but at the same time they save money. Homemade bioprotection is easy to prepare, environmentally friendly and safe for humans. To determine which antiseptic will be the best, it is worth considering all the conditions for its use.

Proper treatment of wood with an antiseptic

The technique for treating wood surfaces is quite simple, but, nevertheless, it is important to remember safety precautions when working with chemicals of this type.

To work, you will need special protective clothing, a mask, rubber gloves and wood impregnation.

1. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of old coating, debris and dust. Next, the wood is processed with soft detergents and dries.
2. The antiseptic mixture is applied to the damaged areas using a brush or roller. The next layers are applied 2–3 hours after the first layer has completely dried. Complete drying of the treated surfaces can last from 3 days to 2 weeks.
3. It is better to carry out all wood processing work at temperatures from +5 (for organic, oil and combined compositions) and at +10 (for water-soluble ones). Air humidity is at least 85%.
4. To kill insects, it is better to use alcohol compounds, which are poured into the holes made by pests with a special syringe. Next, the surface is treated with the selected antiseptic.

Re-protection of wood with antiseptics is carried out in case of chips, cracks and changes in surface color.

Wood is the most popular building material. Even though it is susceptible to infection, it quickly becomes covered with blue stains and dark gray spots. At high temperature and in damp air, flying fungal spores quickly do their blue work. What to do: get rid of the affected material or try to save it?

Preparations according to the rules

What causes darkening of wood? It's simple. Wood is a biological material that has a certain moisture content. Microscopic spores of fungus and mold move freely in the air and, settling in a nutritious, moist environment, begin to actively multiply. This process cannot be prevented. It is not always possible to treat wood before and during construction. What should I do? Main - it is necessary to choose the right material. Winter wood is considered to be of the highest quality if it is harvested during a period when the air temperature does not exceed +10 °C. Under such conditions, moisture naturally freezes out of the pores of the wood. Winter harvested material acquires an optimal percentage of humidity (10-12%, ideally 8%) and becomes less susceptible to infection.

Wood, prepared in summer, due to the lack of natural freezing and due to the high activity of the construction season, sometimes immediately after felling it goes for sawing and sale. It is simply crude, and its use almost always threatens with unpleasant surprises - maybe formation of blue spots(spread of fungus), and twisting of the material. This is especially true for boards - after all, the smaller the cross-section of the product, the faster the fungus penetrates inside the wood. That is why blue rarely appears on timber.

If construction is slow or material is being prepared for future use, it is better purchase certified wood, which in the factory is completely soaked in a protective solution. A uniform layer of such impregnation is quite enough to prevent the spread of fungus on the surface of the wood during the entire period of construction or storage of the material. You can also saturate newly purchased boards yourself using a sprayer, brush or roller. True, this is a labor-intensive task. You will need a non-tinting antiseptic impregnation that will not form a film on the surface of the material.

Wood staining fungus is, of course, not the only pest that can quickly destroy wood. But unlike other lesions, blueness on the tree - dangerous symptom, since it not only penetrates deeply inside, but also precedes rot. The latter is capable of eating the material almost completely and destroying the structure. There is only one way out - to learn how to properly treat and protect the tree.

Save...cannot...throw away

If the blue stain has already settled on the structure or on building material, then you need to get rid of it. And the sooner the better. Blue on the tree can be bleached by special means , but first of all, it is important to dry the surfaces or ventilate the room well to get rid of excess moisture. Most often, wood bleaches are made on the basis of chlorine (“Neomid 500”, Expertzkologiya - from 1900 rubles per 20l pack; “Sagus”, LLC “Sagus+” - from 540 rubles per 10l.

“Senezh EFFO”, “Senezh-preparations” - from 680 rubles. for Yul). It is not always possible to remove blue stains the first time. In this case, re-processing is carried out. After bleaching, the wood is washed to avoid efflorescence, dried and the result evaluated.

It is worth considering that wood bleaches are effective only when the fungal spores have not yet penetrated too deeply and have not affected the core. Sometimes it is still easier to throw away the wood than to try to revive the affected areas, since the depth of penetration of lightening impregnations is only about 3mm. If it is clearly visible that the wood is heavily damaged by fungus or the material has cavities inside, a very dark, almost black tint and a loose structure, then no amount of bleaching will help.

Useful potion

After the whitening procedure, it's time to apply protective composition. There are antiseptics, forming a film on the surface of wood and not forming it. The latter will require further processing, since the biocide in their composition will evaporate and be washed out under the influence of precipitation. Non-film-forming antiseptics or primers for wood are usually applied before further painting (with enamel, moisture-resistant, fully covering or transparent glaze paint) or on wood that will subsequently be covered finishing material, for example siding. Primers penetrate deeply into the wood, create a vapor-permeable coating and sometimes contain UV filters. They create an elastic coating on the surface that helps improve adhesion when applying the subsequent decorative and finishing layer of paint. Among them there are those that can be applied to practically green wood with a humidity of up to 40% and to wood that will constantly be in unfavorable conditions, for example, high humidity(Belinka base from Belinka, from 3000 rubles per Yul, AQUATEX from NPP Rogneda, from 1900 rubles per 10 liters, Soil-impregnation VDAK “On Wood” from “Palette of Rus'”, from 530 rubles per 10 liters).

Film-forming compounds not only protect, but also create a decorative layer that gives the wood a beautiful translucent shade. Typically, manufacturers offer about 10-15 colors to choose from. These antiseptics form a waterproof, vapor-permeable film and protect wood well from fading and bleaching. For the interior of the house, acrylate-based compositions are used - they have good thixotropy (do not drain) and are odorless. For exterior work, solvent-based compositions (alkyd glazes) are best suited, creating more durable coating. When using film-forming antiseptics, it is worth knowing that with acrylate antiseptics, the color appears only after complete drying, while oils and waxes are often added to alkyd ones, which provide special strength and durability of the coating.

In most cases, the wood can be saved. However, no manufacturer guarantees that the blue color will not return in a few years. To avoid repeated negative consequences, wood must be carefully protected and its condition constantly monitored by regular processing. Then any wooden building will remain unchanged for decades.

I don’t think anyone needs to explain why a prepper might need water-repellent impregnation. Another thing is that it is not always possible to simply buy it. And if everything goes exactly as the preppers expect, then there will be an opportunity to buy at least something for a long time it certainly won't. But no one has canceled the rains and high humidity, so making your own clothes and tent is extremely good idea. And if you consider that such fabric also gets dirty much worse, then it becomes clear why people develop recipes water-repellent impregnation from improvised means.

There are three effective ways, allowing you to create water-repellent impregnation at home. But they have some disadvantages, for example, the need to use ingredients that are wildlife you won't find it. Seriously, we don’t know, for example, what can replace laundry soap. As for other substances, everything is much simpler with them and their analogues can be found in nature. So.

Option 1

We will need:

• baking soda - 500 grams
• rosin powder - 500 grams
• acetone or ethyl alcohol - 500 mg
• water - 5 liters

Grind the soap to shavings. You can use a grater, or you can simply plan it with a knife. We heat the water, but not to 100 degrees, but to 70 - that is, we barely bring it to a boil. Dissolve soap shavings and soda in it. We pour rosin powder into alcohol, since it dissolves poorly in water, but, on the contrary, it dissolves well in a chemical solvent. Pour the alcohol and rosin into water and mix everything thoroughly.

We take the fabric that is to be soaked and immerse it in water for 12 hours (no less). After that, take it out, squeeze it lightly (just lightly) and lay it out to dry on a horizontal surface. The water will evaporate, but the fibers will be saturated with rosin, so they will absorb liquid much worse. This does not affect the color, nor does it affect the strength of the fabric. Certainly, water-repellent impregnation will not be 100 percent effective, but it will actually dry much faster and get wet, on the contrary, slower.

If you don’t have rosin powder at hand (and most likely you won’t have it), then it can be completely replaced by ordinary resin, which can simply be collected in the forest, especially in coniferous ones. It's not difficult, but it can take a lot of time. Alcohol can be obtained if you understand at least a little the principles of moonshine brewing (we will definitely tell you about this, but another time). Soda can be obtained from the ash of burned algae. By the way, this is a rather interesting point. The fact is that some recipes involve using baking soda(sodium bicarbonate) rather than baking soda (sodium carbonate). And according to the classics, laundry soda was used to produce soap, which is much easier to obtain. So we will use for our water-repellent impregnation exactly her.

Option 2

We will need:

• water - 10 liters
• laundry soap - 500 grams
• alum - 500 grams

Dissolve in 5 liters warm water soap, immerse the fabric there for a while and remove it, squeezing it lightly. After this, dissolve all the alum in the remaining water, immerse the fabric in it again, leave it for a while, take it out and let it dry.

There is another way - the step with soap is exactly the same, but the alum solution is sprayed onto the fabric through a regular spray bottle. You just need to make sure that the insoluble sediment does not clog the outlet hole. You need to spray until the liquid begins to drain from the fabric. Next, let it dry a little and apply alum again.

Option 3

We will need:

• water - 6 liters
• alum - 150 grams
• lead acetate - 150 grams

Actually, the good thing about this method is that it requires water-repellent impregnation ingredients can be found in the wild. It's difficult, but it's possible. The downside is that the mixture in which the fabrics are to be soaked is poisonous. So the dishes will at least need to be thoroughly washed. Yes, and it’s better to work with gloves.

Lead sugar is an ancient sweetener obtained by boiling grape wine in lead cauldrons. Finding lead salts is difficult, but it’s also possible to treat them with a bite and get acetate. As for alum, these are complex salts in which both an alkali metal and an ordinary metal are present. Most often, alum is based on aluminum and can easily be found in the wild.

So, in one vessel, dissolve lead acetate (lead sugar) in 3 liters of warm water. In the second - alum in a similar amount. Give them time to settle, remove the sediment and drain the solutions together. Give them a few more hours to settle, remove the sediment and place the fabric there for a day. After that, dry the fabric without squeezing. This will give it not only protection from moisture, but also make it fire resistant.

PS. Oh yes, gentlemen, no one says that “This is how anyone can find the necessary chemicals in the wild!” We understand perfectly well that without at least basic knowledge Geology and chemistry will not do this. However, it is theoretically possible, and with some training it will become possible in practice. But no, no one said it was easy.