What is the best way to insulate a balcony? Choosing the best insulation! The best way to insulate a balcony inside: what materials to choose Insulation of a loggia in a house diagram.

The loggia could well be called extra room in the apartment, but, unfortunately, many people use it only in the summer, since it initially does not have insulation, and there are no heating radiators installed there.

Modern way insulation - spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the walls using special equipment, and specialized companies deal with this insulation.

However, before inviting them to spray such insulation, the walls need to be prepared by lathing them. It will be a kind of frame for the sprayed and expanding heat insulator, as well as for securing decorative finishing material.

The advantage of this method of insulation is that when sprayed, the material, expanding, closes all the cracks, making the surface absolutely not blown, without cold bridges. Polyurethane foam covers not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor.

Video - How polyurethane foam is sprayed

Loggia design solutions

I would like to show several options. Perhaps, having started the process of turning a cold room into a usable area, someone will be inspired by one of the ideas developed by the designers.

In this case, a standard loggia with a small footage is presented, transformed into cozy room recreation. Here you can retire with a book or laptop and delve into reading. If a large family lives in an apartment, usually each member is doing something they love, and sometimes it’s difficult to find cozy place to sit in silence. An insulated loggia will be an ideal option for this.

In such a room you can place a small TV and enjoy your favorite programs or sit with handicrafts, comfortably placing your feet on a comfortable chair. The main thing is that there is extra space that can serve all family members in turn to do what they love.

Original version— the loggia turns into a stylish bar

Such option will do for apartments in which the door to the loggia is located in the kitchen. In this case, it can become a dining room, especially since most kitchens in apartments are quite small.

If apartment owners like to frequently host parties, a loggia window sill can easily replace a bar counter.

You can also have a romantic dinner here. The evening city, which offers a wonderful view, and the pleasant summer air will create the necessary mood for this. In winter, it’s nice to sit at the counter, sipping coffee and looking at the opening wide panorama outside the window.

Glass sliding doors installed between the kitchen and the loggia will help to unite or separate the rooms, depending on the need.

In this version, it was combined with the living room, and the wall, which previously served as a dividing element between the two rooms, became a unifying one, as it was transformed into a comfortable table.

The area of ​​the former loggia in this layout can be used as an office with a comfortable desk, as well as hobbies when you don’t want anyone to interfere.

And, of course, combining the loggia and the room will increase the total space by opening a large window. The room will be more illuminated, which will help save on electricity.

Additional living space can be adapted for various activities, for example, on a loggia winter Garden, workshop or computer room. Therefore, if the apartment is equipped with a loggia, but it is not yet insulated, you need to urgently get down to business and expand the area of ​​​​your home by using a room that is not used functionally.

Video - How a loggia is insulated

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I spent little time covering the question of how best to insulate a loggia from the inside. But right choice thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the measures taken.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions I provide below will tell you how to choose yourself suitable material for insulation.

Requirements for insulation

Before I tell you how to insulate the inside of a loggia with my own hands, I want to devote a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what it is advisable to pay attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, to insulate a room (be it a separate loggia or combined with the main room) you will have to use a smaller layer of material. This means more will be saved. usable area rooms.
2. Easy to install. How more difficult order installation of the thermal insulation material you have chosen, the longer and more labor-intensive the repair process will be, especially if done independently. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate a loggia from the inside. If you need it, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose insulation that can withstand external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulating pie. In addition, air vapors that are formed as a result of human activity can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, mildew and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have optimal ratio cost and performance characteristics. And then you can choose for yourself which material is best for insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's get started with the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - expanded polystyrene or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. The result is a kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I’ll tell you briefly about the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W/(m*K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you purchase for the job.

I'll warn you right away. Do not confuse polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are related, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional construction foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulating layer.

Therefore, insulating a loggia from the inside with polystyrene foam requires taking additional measures to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation with water absorption is different. When in contact with liquid, foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate significantly, so there is no need to waterproof the insulating layer very carefully.

1. Strength. Used for insulation construction foams, which meet the requirements of DIN number 7726 and are classified as “rigid”. That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use foam for internal insulation loggias, you immediately need to decide how to decorate the inside after insulation. You need to choose this method decorative finishing, which would simultaneously protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of polystyrene foam largely depends on its density. But as the density increases, the heat-retaining properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam plastic for internal insulation is 25. You can buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly withstands the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bitumen resins, cement and lime mortars, and asphalts.

However, I myself saw how foam plastic “melts” when certain varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances come into contact with it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, care should be taken to protect it thoroughly.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulating layer to simultaneously act as a sound insulator, then you will be disappointed with polystyrene foam. It can protect a little only from impact noise, and only if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Foam plastic does not dampen other noises that are transmitted through the air. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves are not absorbed.

1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the USA finally proved that biological life on the surface of polystyrene foam is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and mildew.

As for security issues environment(for some this is very important), then everything is fine here too, since in the production of insulation they abandoned the use of freon, which harms the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself lasts quite a long time without losing its performance properties. Moreover, regardless of the number of freezing and thawing cycles.

However, the insulation in question is susceptible to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process occurs. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation it releases many harmful substances, which includes:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehyde;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to current Russian standards (GOST number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth classes of flammability. In other words, they are very dangerous if you look at them from this point of view.

When choosing insulation, pay attention to what standards the polystyrene foam is certified to. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most flammable material- wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed when the foam is ignited.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to the certificates issued based on the results comprehensive research. And buy polystyrene foam that contains fire retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just requires longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to foam, it continues to remain a fairly flammable material. Therefore, if you are going to set up a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, fire retardants disappear over time.

1. Lifetime. If you follow the technology for installing foam plastic (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material) it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you don’t make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of elk insulation. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam plastic board 30 cm thick, the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not true, because thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a living space. Among other things, this installation method allows you to reduce the amount of smoke released during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I’ll summarize everything that’s been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I recommend purchasing polystyrene foam labeled PSB-S with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers mark foam plastic with the number “40,” which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the packaging or provided separately at the buyer’s request.
3. Buy polystyrene foam produced by extrusion (must be indicated in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece of it. If you see balls at the fracture site, which are also easy to separate, then you have packaging material in front of you. Polystyrene foam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedra, along which fracture occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

Not long ago I used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And chose the material for work domestic manufacturer- penoplex. That’s why I’ll tell you about him in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States about half a century ago. The essence technological process is as follows: polystyrene foam granules are placed in a chamber where they melt under high temperature. This mass is then foamed using chemicals and squeezed out through nozzles rectangular shape onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foaming agents are used, that is, substances that, when heated, release gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene strip is cut into slabs and packaged in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of penophores in the production of penoplex gives the latter a porous structure, like polystyrene foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly connected to each other into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are insulated from each other, therefore they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this entire structure has greater strength than classic polystyrene foam (foam).

The exact technical characteristics of penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and sizes of the boards. Accordingly, they should be used to insulate various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex this figure is approximately 0.03 W/(m*K). This is one of the lowest odds of them all. existing insulation materials. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, protect it with additional waterproofing membranes no need.
2. Hygroscopicity. In contact with water or moist air the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the top layers of insulation are impregnated, which has a positive effect on the integrity of the material.
3. Vapor permeability. The material does not allow moisture vapor dissolved in the air to pass through it well. Therefore, surfaces finished with penoplex are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compression resistance. This parameter is excellent, which is achieved thanks to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used for insulating floors on loggias (by laying insulation under cement screed). If you apply significant force to the insulation, a dent no more than 1 mm deep may form on the surface.
5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, it still emits a small amount during operation. chemical compounds which may be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freezing and thawing cycles. Therefore, when operating on outdoors it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia there is even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a decorative finishing method.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene Penoplex on sale. To make it more convenient for you to choose the appropriate variety, I will provide the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial containers with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is no different high strength, therefore can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish upon fire.
Penoplex 35	A material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of a loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture-resistant insulation. Is used for external thermal insulation surfaces that experience large static and dynamic loads. On the loggia it can be used to insulate the floor.
Penoplex 45C	A self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex also has proper names. I will provide a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cub.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	Used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions And ground floors located above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of penoplex is very durable and can withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	Used for insulating attic spaces. Insulation has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subject to constant load.
Comfort	25-35	A material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity air.

If you ask my opinion, I would recommend using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged sheathing.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from the volcanic mineral basalt. It is basalt wool that is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents after one of the volcanic eruptions, strong and thin fibers were discovered in the surrounding area.

Nowadays basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a smelting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. The mixture then falls onto the drum, where it is blown with a stream of air and rotates. The result is fibers 7 microns thick and about 5 cm long.

After this, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I’ll tell you the most important things about this insulation:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, although cotton wool does not outperform penoplex, it is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient ranges from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

So that you understand what we are talking about, let me compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To provide the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks 1 m 20 cm thick. You will need even more sand-lime brick - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate into the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties, after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor), increase their thermal conductivity coefficient, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take basalt wool, and not glass fibers. Don't be confused. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the enclosing structures. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg/(m*h*Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such insulation, a microclimate that is comfortable for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high temperature melting, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which becomes very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST number 30244 and SNiP number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when insulating residential premises.

1. Soundproofing properties. Unlike expanded polystyrene, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are randomly located.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this figure does not decrease depending on the operating time.

However, you cannot install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend installing a sheathing, onto which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova) that are specifically designed for insulating floors under cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion metal parts. In addition, mold and mildew do not grow inside the insulation layer and on its surface, and insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia at your dacha. Unlike polystyrene foam, which mice love to chew on.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together using phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to reassure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of basalt wool production. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of humans.

Disadvantages of the material

So that you don’t get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for insulating a loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulating layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers when working with it;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the appropriate insulation for thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

If your apartment or house has a balcony, then you should definitely use it, since it is an additional, and sometimes simply necessary, area. If you approach the issue with imagination and think through all the nuances, you can end up with a small but very cozy room. In order for a balcony to serve as a room, it must be insulated. How to insulate the balcony inside is decided by each owner independently, taking into account his financial capabilities and pressing needs. But a few words should be said about the nuances of the process and the materials used to insulate the balcony. You need to choose these materials very carefully and pay attention to all the characteristics.

You need to start mastering any balcony with an objective assessment of its condition. If the apartment is located in a new building that has recently been handed over to residents, then you need to pay attention to the material from which the balcony structure is made. Also, in new houses, you need to pay attention to what the neighbors’ balconies are decorated with. Often in such houses neighbors try to adhere to the same style.

We make masonry from foam blocks

But if the balcony is far from new apartment and it has always been used as an open space, then the work will have to start with strengthening the balcony. Strengthening also includes reconstruction concrete platform balcony, and strengthening the metal handrail. Also, this process may include such an event as strengthening the lower part of the upper balcony; this must also be taken into account. After solving all these issues and choosing the material for the outer cladding of the loggia (balcony), you can move on to the interior decoration. To simplify this stage, you can lay a wall of bricks or foam blocks up to half of the balcony, directly to the double-glazed windows. This will save on insulation.

Advice: If all stages of insulation are carried out at the same time, then it is better to immediately install double glass in the windows, since one glass gives 70% more heat loss in cold weather.

Preparing for insulation

To begin insulating the inside of the balcony with any materials, you need to make preparations. Having chosen the material for insulation, you need to create a special one for it. wooden sheathing, onto which it will then be attached. The exception is rolled materials, which can be mounted under the sheathing. This frame is made of beams with a cross-section of about 4-5 cm. Transverse and perpendicular beams must be fastened so that squares of 50 by 50 cm are obtained. The sheathing can also be made of a metal profile, but this material is somewhat more expensive than wooden beams. Main advantages metal frame is ease of design and ease of use.

Note: When calculating necessary insulation for a balcony inside, you need to take into account not only the dimensions of the walls, but the floor and ceiling, since these two positions also need insulation.

Material selection

Insulation is placed in the sheathing on the inside of the balcony, which can be:

Foam insulation is one of the most common methods of thermal insulation of balconies and loggias

Styrofoam. The cheapest of these materials is simple white foam, 5 cm thick. If you are insulating a room in cold latitudes, then you can take thicker foam plastic; it can reach a thickness of up to 10 cm. It can be easily cut into the required number of parts, and you can not additionally reinforce it with anything, but immediately lay it in the cells of the sheathing for finishing Decoration Materials. The material is absolutely safe both when working with it and during subsequent use. The insulation is completely odorless, does not emit toxic substances, and styrene fumes in small quantities do not affect human health. Installation of the material occurs without the formation of dust.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool. Mineral wool is a little more expensive, but its sound insulation properties are much higher, so if you need to get rid of extraneous sounds, it is better to use it. This material is completely natural and completely fireproof. The combustion temperature of mineral wool starts from a thousand degrees. The inconvenience of laying mineral wool briquettes lies in the mandatory compliance with safety precautions. The material contains small glass particles that cause itching of the skin. Installation must be carried out in protected special clothing, safety glasses and a respirator.

Expanded clay. The material is an environmentally friendly insulation. The word "expanded clay" is translated from Greek language like "baked clay". The material is often used for insulation of floors and ceilings. It is not entirely profitable for them to insulate the walls, since they additionally need to prepare a metal mesh as a support.

Installation of high-quality double-glazed windows plays a big role in insulating a balcony or loggia. - you will find the answer here.

Penofol. This material is one of the thermal insulation products that has a reflective effect. It is a layer of foamed self-extinguishing polyethylene with closed air pores. Aluminum coated High Quality, 14 microns thick and 99.4% pure on one or both sides. Penofol is a universal material with steam, hydro, wind, soundproofing properties. The material has the appearance of thin, flexible, light and environmentally friendly clean structure. It can be used as an additional vapor barrier; it is very convenient to work with, since it is sold in rolls and is easy to cut even with ordinary scissors. This material protects the room from external moisture and eliminates condensation from the room.

Penoplex. It is a new material specially designed for room insulation. The material is very convenient to install due to its light weight, so its use on the balcony is now relevant. It is produced in the form of rectangular slabs of different thicknesses, which are easily cut with a stationery knife. It is also possible to produce “sandwich panels” using the casting method. Insulation with a rough surface makes it easy to attach and glue them to other materials.

Izolon

Izolon. Also is universal material in terms of use. Confirmed safety for use as insulation and vapor barrier element. Excellent soundproofing characteristics.

The degree of thermal conductivity compares:

• with 15 cm brickwork
• with 4.5 cm wood
• with 4.5 cm mineral wool
• with 1.2 cm polystyrene foam

Reduces noise by at least 18 dB.

These are the main materials for creating an insulating layer, which are now easy to find in any hardware store. We hope you now have more information about How can you insulate a balcony from the inside?, and then we’ll look at how to do this.

How to insulate

One of optimal methods laying of insulation is layer-by-layer laying:

• First, the surface is waterproofed
• The next layer is the selected insulating material, which is also secured with appropriate fasteners. These can be nails, screws, plastic fasteners with wide heads.
• Then a vapor barrier is laid, which is secured with a construction stapler.
• At the final stage, finishing material is attached to the sheathing using special fastening materials.

Sheets of foam plastic are installed in the sheathing, and the joints are sealed polyurethane foam

The result should be a layer approximately 60 - 70 mm thick, this is the distance from the outer layer to the finishing layer. Depending on climatic conditions, this size may vary. You must understand that any layer of insulation requires financial costs and labor, so it is better to immediately build a balcony conscientiously and not try to save on trifles.

In a situation with insulating the floor on the balcony the sequence is also the same. If it is decided to fill the floor with concrete, then expanded clay is laid first and the solution is distributed on top of it. The concrete solution must be carefully distributed using a special rule and try to make the surface as smooth as possible. Then ceramic tiles or other finishing materials can be laid on such a surface. Under finishing you can lay rolled heated floors, and this will give additional insulation premises.

Video instructions for self-installation plasterboard ceiling available at this address

If you select the option wooden floor, then first the guide logs are laid, between which the insulation is laid. Then a finishing board or chipboard is laid on the logs. Laying chipboard is necessary if laminate or linoleum will be installed further. It is also worth noting that under the laminate it is necessary to lay special substrate, which will provide additional thermal insulation. When the finishing of the walls and floors is completed, skirting boards are installed to hide the joints of the finishing.

In the complex of works on insulating a balcony, it is necessary to pay attention to the ceiling. The insulation process is carried out according to the same scheme as walls and floors. The task will be complicated when the balcony or loggia is on top floor And ceiling absent. In this case, you need to take into account the additional costs of installing the ceiling and roof.

When working on insulating a balcony, you should not fuss and rush, this can lead to unreasonably high consumption of material. If you approach the matter carefully and carry out constant calculations, you can acquire a full-fledged additional room for little money.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article “Insulation for a balcony inside - choosing materials,” which shows in detail the entire process of insulating a balcony using penoplex and penofol.

Lately, more and more more owners apartments in multi-storey buildings decide to expand their area by adding a balcony. This great option, if you figure out how to properly insulate it from the inside and equip it.

If the balcony is not glazed, windows must be installed before insulation. It is better to choose high-quality double-glazed windows without saving, because the amount of heat in the apartment depends on them. Elements of window structures should fit together as closely as possible to prevent drafts from entering the house.

The balcony is the part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are starting to equip their balconies as additional space, for example, Personal Area. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to properly insulate the structure from the inside.

Stages of insulating a balcony

In modern technologies for insulating open suspended structures (balconies), internal insulation Four types of materials are used: polystyrene foam, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Let's consider technological features installation and types of cotton insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

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1. First, existing cracks are sealed. You need to carefully examine the balcony and determine their location. You can fix the problem with the help of polyurethane foam, even if the cracks are quite wide, you just need to choose a high-quality one, for example, “Macroflex”, “Soudal”, “Moment Montazh”. After the foam has dried, the excess is trimmed with a utility knife.

2. Waterproofing the balcony from the inside. For these purposes, you can use penetrating waterproofing "Aquatron", "Penetron" and the like. They are applied using a brush, roller or spray method. The advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it penetrates into the walls, making them more resistant to low temperatures and more durable. In addition, waterproofing eliminates all microcracks that are not visible to the naked eye.

3. Laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, you can use polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, penoplex, mineral boards, etc.

Laying vapor barrier. Polymer “breathing” membranes can be used, vapor barrier films“Izospan, “Rockwool” and the like, or in extreme cases penofol, which is laid with the foil side towards the apartment. So the heat leaving the room will return back.

4. Exterior decoration ceiling and walls on the balcony.

Insulation option in which there is no additional insulation

This technique can be used provided that there are materials available that have low vapor permeability (we are talking about materials such as polystyrene foam, penoplex, or extruded polystyrene foam).

No. 1. Insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose polystyrene foam as insulation, then the sequence of work is as follows:

After all the cracks have been sealed and waterproofing has been completed, the surface is treated with a primer deep penetration, for example "Ceresit". This can be done with a brush or spray. The primer is poured into a bucket or other container that you don’t mind, then applied to the surface. Carefully work on the walls, ceiling and floor to achieve maximum adhesion of the insulation boards to them.

After applying the primer, you must wait at least six hours, then continue work. If the wall is made of slag concrete, then the primer is carried out twice.

We rested - let's continue. Unpack the polystyrene foam boards. They are attached with glue and fasteners. The glue must be prepared according to the instructions and mixed thoroughly. Then apply it to the first sheet, which is glued to the surface (do not forget to retreat three centimeters from the edges, and leave small gaps between the sheets). Install polystyrene foam sheets in a checkerboard pattern.

Whether to install a vapor barrier or not is up to you. In this case, it is not necessary to do it.

Installation of reinforcing mesh. When all the slabs are securely fixed to the walls or ceiling, the reinforcing mesh should be installed. To do this, the surface of the slabs is treated with glue, and perforated corners are fixed at their corners. The reinforcing mesh is rolled onto the glued surface with a roller, then another layer of glue is applied. When the wall is dry, it is primed and plastered.

No. 2. Balcony insulation with penoplex

Penoplex is actively used for insulating rooms. You can attach it to the surface using bitumen mastics, polyurethane foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

So. Waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied around the perimeter of the insulation board. It's enough. After application, wait a couple of seconds and fix the slab on the insulated surface. The next slab is laid end to end with the first one. After two days, you can additionally secure the slabs with dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in a similar order as described above. Finish at your own discretion. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels; they look very original.

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed sheathing. A lining is mounted on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is construction recommendation perform insulation on the outside of the building. However, when insulating balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials, so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetness of the walls, corners and ceilings inside the external structure.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool represents soft material, which does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Important! When installing, the foil should be located on the side of the room. Internal heat the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between outer wall(ceiling, roof) and frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on what kind of cladding will be used in the future.

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm2 are installed, and you can save a little internal space on the balcony by installing rectangular sticks rather than square section(30×50 cm 2, 30×70 cm 2).

All racks and horizontal lathing strips are installed below the level. Attaching vertical posts to concrete surface ceiling and floor is carried out anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal strips are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. On my own cotton material breathable, it easily allows gaseous substances (air, steam) to pass through.

Considering that with internal insulation, the point of condensation formation moves into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the penetration of steam or air from living quarters into the construction wool. For these purposes, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finishing.

Interior decoration

Purpose interior decoration:

1. Close the heat insulation material from the living space.
2. Create an aesthetically pleasing interior covering for the walls of a room or insulated loggia.

Exist various materials for interior decoration of balconies (plasterboard, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lattice frame, finishing is done by hanging various types panels: plywood, MDF, wood or plastic lining.

Finishing clapboard is performed by covering the walls with wooden (or plastic) car panels that have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and tightness of fastening. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper simulator wooden covering, laid according to internal walls balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Wooden carriage panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, and have sufficient flooring rigidity. Plastic lining you can sheathe the ceiling of the loggia, the floor is covered with wood; as for the walls, both types of carriage coverings (plastic and wood) can be used here.

It is recommended to start clapboard cladding from the corner. Each panel is checked for verticality with a level and fixed to the sheathing with a special fastener (clamp). You can fix the carriage panel with small nails.

After finishing, the inner surface is treated with a compound that protects the wood from moisture and destruction.

Problems encountered when insulating a balcony internally

1. When covering walls, ceilings and floors with insulating material, the area of ​​the room inevitably decreases. And this drawback is not the only one.

2. In many structures, condensation often occurs, which is difficult to get rid of when all construction work has already been completed. Why does excess moisture appear?

The insulating structure installed on the balcony includes the following elements:

1. external fencing located on the street; insulation material; warm room.

Air masses tend to get out, and their moisture, passing through the insulation, settles on the outer fence in the form of condensation. The insulation gets wet and completely loses its performance characteristics.

Warm vapors, when faced with a cold fence, also turn into a liquid state. Excess moisture in a room causes many problems: for example, mold or rotting of wooden structural elements. That is why you need to know how to properly insulate your balcony.

This can be done from the inside in two ways.

Hydrobarrier

Hydrobarrier - special design, preventing moisture condensation on the outer fence. Its installation technology includes certain stages:

1. installation of vapor barrier;
2. finishing with facing materials.

The hydrobarrier makes it possible to use even materials that do not tolerate moisture when insulating from the inside. Polyethylene or foil serves as insulation.

Important! All seams must be sealed with construction tape.in order to best insulate the balcony.

The disadvantage of this insulation method is that the walls cannot breathe.

Insulation without additional insulation

It is possible to insulate a balcony from the inside in this way only if there are materials with low vapor permeability: polystyrene foam, penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam. The design includes:

1. fiberglass mesh, also mounted with glue; finishing.

Advice! For better fastening For insulation, you can use plastic dowels.

No adhesive is required for thermal insulation with polystyrene foam. This material is applied to the insulated surface using a sprayer, foams and dries.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNIKOL LOGICPIR Balcony is suitable for walls, ceilings, floors. saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.

1. retains heat thanks to its unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W/m°K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W/m°K);
2. protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (flammability group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
3. will last long years(the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Advice! When insulating a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam, it is better to make a layer of material about 80 mm thick. The vapor permeability of extruded polystyrene foam is lower than that of simple polystyrene, so its layer can be even smaller.

Floor insulation

After insulating the balcony walls, the floor should be insulated. If you correctly calculate the amount of insulation and the thickness of its layer, you can make the floor on the balcony at the same level as in the other rooms.

At the first stage of work, the slab is cleaned of dirt, debris and fallen plaster. Then the floor is covered with foil and penofol. The second stage is attaching the sheathing, previously cut with a jigsaw. Insulation boards are laid between its beams ( better than foam), and the gaps between them are filled with foam. The final stage- installation of flooring, linoleum or parquet and baseboards.

This design can raise the floor on the balcony by about 150 mm.

Electrically heated floor

You can also insulate the floor using modern technologies. Then the balcony will be practically no different from other rooms. Installing electric heat tracing is a relatively simple process, but the energy costs add up significantly.

To heat the balcony floor from the inside, a special electric cable is installed.

Important! The cable must not be exposed to moisture under any circumstances.

Components of the insulating structure:

Ceiling insulation

Advice! If the neighbors living on the floor above have already insulated their balcony, there is no need to insulate the ceiling.

Most optimal material for ceiling insulation - polystyrene foam. It weighs very little, which is very important in this case. Its main layer is complemented by foil, which acts as a vapor barrier and heat reflector. The foiled polystyrene foam is fixed with polyurethane foam glue and disc-shaped dowels. All seams are sealed with special metal tape.

The foam is attached to aluminum hangers using the same combined method.

Important! The insulation sheets should fit together as closely as possible.

All cracks are filled with polyurethane foam with special care, so every, even the smallest, hole can make all work absolutely useless.

You can insulate a balcony from the inside either on your own or by using the services of professionals. However, these construction works can be simple if you use tips and carefully understand the technology.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step photos and instructions

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Mistakes when insulating a balcony

Many residents of apartment buildings are faced with the problem of a lack of square meters. An excellent solution to this issue could be insulating the loggia yourself. This is a painstaking task that requires the performer to have certain construction skills and time. However finished result worth it. Warm balcony expands the possibilities of using space, “ennobles” the living space and can become a source of pride for a home craftsman.

The need to insulate the loggia

Each apartment owner independently decides for himself how to use the additional square meters of the loggia. Some set up a storage room or workshop on the balcony, others use the room more rationally - create a “winter garden” or a separate room. An insulated loggia can be converted into a cozy place for relaxation, work, a compact gym or an area for children’s creativity.

In addition, an insulated balcony solves a number of problems:

• heat loss from the premises and heating costs for the apartment are reduced;
• reduces the risk of mold on the walls of the balcony.

You can perform external or internal insulation. Obvious advantages of the external method:

• the usable area is not “eaten up”;
• simplification of interior wall decoration.

A significant advantage of internal insulation is the ability to complete the work yourself without hiring workers.

Selection of thermal insulation material

Various thermal insulation materials are used as insulation, ranging from traditional, inexpensive ones to modern high-tech ones. To insulate the loggia from the inside, it is better to use thin, lightweight materials. Thanks to their small width, you can save useful space.

Let's consider the characteristics of the main thermal insulation materials for insulating a loggia/balcony.

Foil polyethylene foam - a layer of foil is applied to one side of the polyethylene, which reflects infrared radiation and “throws” heat flows back. Insulation characteristics:

• roll width - 1 m, thickness - 2-5 cm;
• ease of installation - polyethylene foam can be easily cut with a knife;
• laying method - butt or overlap;
• thermal insulation efficiency almost doubles;
• the material is used to insulate ceilings and walls.

Insulating a loggia: step-by-step instructions. Use of penofol

Mineral wool has good thermal insulation qualities and an affordable price. However, experts do not recommend using this material to insulate a loggia for a number of reasons:

• poor moisture resistance - mineral wool absorbs liquid, so you will have to further strengthen the waterproofing;
• when using mineral wool, arrangement is required natural ventilation- a gap must be left above the insulation, which slightly “conceals” the area of ​​the balcony;
• To cover the loggia, you will need to reinforce the wall and carry out additional measures.

Foam plastic - foamed plastic various densities. The bulk of the material is gas. Polystyrene foam has the following characteristics:

• slab size - 1*1 m;
• insulation thickness 2-10 cm;
• foam density - 15 or 25 kg/sq.cm;
• durability.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is a modern heat insulator that resembles polystyrene foam, but has a more durable structure and functionality. Properties of expanded polystyrene:

• rectangular slabs 1200*600 mm;
• thickness - 2-10 cm;
• penoplex density - 35-45 kg/sq.cm;
• vapor tightness;
• frost resistance;
• the slabs are chamfered for tighter installation;
• light weight and ease of installation;
• flammability class - G-1;
• material is not used in open places where UV rays penetrate.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Photo of penoplex installation

Methods for attaching insulation

The choice of insulation method primarily depends on the heat-insulating material used and further finishing of the walls.

Insulation under putty and plaster is suitable when using penoplex or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation panels are glued to the base tile adhesive. The slabs are additionally fixed with dowel mushrooms. You can start plastering/puttying walls or ceilings the day after installing the insulation.

Laying of foil polyethylene foam occurs under the base of the frame. It does not matter how the profiles are attached - to the wall or using U-shaped fasteners. Penofol sheets are applied to the ceiling/wall of the loggia and fixed with slats. In this case, an overlap connection is acceptable, and the joining strip can be taped.

Insulation under the base of the frame is only possible when using thin insulation up to 20 mm thick. Pressing thicker thermal insulation will affect the rigidity of the slats and fastenings

If you plan to cover the balcony with plasterboard or PVC or MDF panels, then it is advisable to lay the heat-insulating material in the cells of the frame. 15-density foam is used as insulation or mineral wool. The disadvantage of this technology is the increase in the thickness of the thermal insulation “pie”.

Options for arranging a “warm” floor

The technology for insulating the floor on a loggia is somewhat different from the thermal insulation of the canopy and ceiling. Excessive demands are placed on this element of the balcony.

There are several main options for arranging a “warm floor”:

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Below are step-by-step instructions for insulating a loggia with penoplex.

Tools and materials

To work you will need:

• foam boards;
• building level, stationery knife, marker;
• PVC pipes for laying cables;
• container for mixing glue;
• construction mixer;
• trowel;
• polyurethane foam;
• mounting gun;
• grater for grinding thermal insulation sheets;
• plastic flat trowel for grouting the floor;
• metal grid;
• sand concrete M300 coarse-grained;
• polyurethane glue.

Insulating a loggia: step-by-step instructions. Photo - diagram of a thermal insulation “pie”.

Preparatory work

First of all, on the loggia you need to install energy-saving plastic windows. There is no point in saving on glazing - it is better to choose double-glazed windows and fittings from companies that have proven themselves well in the window market.

If the balcony is already installed quality windows, then you can move on to insulating the balcony.

Preparatory activities:

Ceiling insulation

Installation of heat insulator on walls and parapet

Insulating the loggia floor with penoplex: step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the stages of creating a “warm floor” using penoplex and cement-sand screed:

1. If installation is required load-bearing frame It is better to use galvanized metal profiles. Unlike wood, it does not rot and is not heavy.
2. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in dry weather. Many adhesive mixtures and primer compositions have features for use in conditions of high humidity.
3. The cracks on the loggia are treated with foam that is resistant to low temperatures.
4. The wood used must be dried and then treated with anti-fire and rotting agents.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Video.