DIY circular saw. DIY: Custom Sawing Table for Circular Saw

If you want to learn how to make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, then read the article.

It talks about the materials that will be needed during the project and the main steps in the process aimed at creating a simple but functional structure.

Materials and tools

A circular saw is a “serious” tool, when using it you must observe safety precautions.

A homemade table, which can be used as a tool stand, will allow you to carry out any manual work with greater accuracy and with less risk of injury.

Before you make a table, you need to spend time carefully planning its design.

It is best to create a detailed drawing containing pre-calculated dimensions of the future “stand”.

The tabletop on which the saw can later be installed should be made of either metal or hardwood. It is better to avoid using resinous wood.

The dimensions of the tabletop should be selected in such a way that they correspond to the planned sawing flow.

It is better to use wooden legs as a base. Plastic, even strong and high-quality, should not be used, since it is not the most reliable material for making a saw table.

In order for the made table to “function” to its full potential, it should be equipped with metal guides capable of moving material under the saw, or rather, under its working blade.

The optimal size of the bed, suitable for most typical sawing work, is one hundred twenty by one hundred twenty centimeters.

If you want to make your table wide and long, then take care of additional supports that will support its structure.

In particular, to give the product stability, it can be equipped with six legs rather than four.

The manual table is assembled using additional materials, including:

• wooden beams intended to form the frame of the structure;
• fastening dowels;
• wood glue;
• metal “corners” for attaching legs;
• nails and screws.

Tools that may be needed during the work:

• tape measure and a rigid construction ruler;
• electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• a device having an installed milling tip;
• sandpaper (or sanding device);
• hammer and plane;
• screwdriver (or screwdriver).

Stages of making a table for a circular saw

Creating a saw table should begin with assembling its frame. To perform this procedure, you can use beams or edged boards, the size of which is fifty by one hundred and fifty millimeters.

The boards need to be knocked together into a single square or rectangular structure, which will serve as both a screed for the frame and a basis for attaching the legs.

The completed frame should be connected to the legs using special metal corners, dowels and screws during the process.

These devices must also be used to connect the assembled frame to the tabletop.

As an alternative, the frame elements can be connected not to each other, but to the legs of the future table. Some carpenters believe that this design is more durable.

The saw must be installed on an inverted bed. Thanks to this, its body and motor will be on the bottom, and the disk, otherwise called the working blade, will be on top.

The hole that allows you to deepen the saw blade into the table should be cut out in advance using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw.

It is important to remember the correct size of the hole, which will reliably “hold” the saw, ensuring the overall integrity of the structure.

Most circular saws have special metal parts that give them stability.

To fix the device on the tabletop, you should make four bars with sawn grooves and drill holes in them for long bolts.

After installing the saw, you should place the prepared bars on its carriage, thereby pressing the device to the bottom of the tabletop.

When attaching the support bars and saw to the tabletop, it is important not to damage the outer part of the bed so as not to create obstacles on its surface for the normal movement of the boards intended for sawing.

Once the saw is securely attached to the table, you need to turn the bed over and screw it to the tie frame.

At this stage of work, you should make sure that all work was carried out correctly and the device is functioning without problems.

Only then can material guides be attached to the table.

Additional Information

Carpentry work requires attention. If you want to make a high-quality and reliable table designed for installing a circular saw, then thoroughly prepare for the process and purchase all the necessary materials and tools.

After assembling the frame, be sure to install it on a flat surface and check that the tabletop of the structure does not overhang it in any direction.

It is better to install the table in the place where it will stand in the future, in order to eliminate possible problems associated with uneven floors.

If, due to an uneven floor, the table vibrates during operation of the saw, then the length of the legs should be adjusted using thick felt or rubber.

The tabletop of the product can be either monolithic or folding. To create a folding saw table, you will have to spend more time and material, and pay special attention to improving the reliability of the frame when disassembled.

The dimensions of the consumables used to create the table are determined experimentally. Ideally, the height of the structure should correlate well with the height of the owner of the saw.

The hole that will be made in the table top must match the dimensions of the specific saw available.

To extend the service life of all materials used, assembled into a single structure, they should be treated with special chemical solutions that can improve the performance characteristics of wood or metal (for example, protect their surface from corrosion, rotting, mold, etc.).

It is better to process wood or metal outdoors rather than indoors, so as not to be poisoned by active fumes.

Inspired by this article, you can make not only a reliable stand for a circular saw, but also a table where you can drink and eat when the whole family gathers.

The technology that underlies the creation of a dining table is in many ways similar to the diagram that can be used to put together a wooden table for a circular saw.

When carrying out work aimed at creating a table for a circular saw, it is important to remember safety precautions.

A circular saw is required in private households quite often, but it is not at all necessary to buy an expensive tool for this. You can make a circular saw with your own hands from available materials.

Basic materials and tools

To create a circular saw you will need the following materials:

• pipe (45 mm);
• channel;
• corner “4” and “6”;
• boards 30 mm wide;
• metal sheet up to 8 mm thick.

The nodes you will need are:

• engine;
• bearings.

The work cannot be done without tools and materials:

• jigsaw;
• turbine;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• scotch;
• hammer;
• wire cutters;
• pliers;
• tape measure and triangle ruler.

How to do it yourself?

You can make a circular electric saw for wood with your own hands from various devices. There is an important condition: you must have metal working skills.

From the Bulgarian

Making a homemade stationary circular saw at home is not difficult. First of all, you should decide on the project, draw a diagram and make a drawing. The differences between a stationary and tabletop DIY circular saw are the height of the base. Before assembling the instrument, you should think about creating a “table”. It is usually made of wood (board thickness - 3 cm) and covered with tin or aluminum sheet. Steel sheets up to 6 mm thick can also be suitable for these purposes. Cross members are made from angle iron (up to 80 mm).

The working disk protrudes beyond the table usually by 35%, that is, for a beam 120 mm thick, the diameter of the disk should be 370 mm, respectively. The power plant required will be 1000 watts (possibly more). If the workpieces are more massive, then a homemade circular saw may not “take” them. The support is created from the angle “8” - this is a fairly massive and durable structure that can withstand quite significant loads. The stop extends beyond the table by 4-5 cm. One shelf is processed on both sides, the remainder in this case should be equal to the length of the table.

A very important unit is the shaft - it is best to take it ready-made. If you have the skills to work on a lathe, then turning such a part is not very difficult. You will need to buy bearings with protection. It is better to use a V-belt pulley. A power plant from a refrigerator or washing machine can be used as an engine. Capacitors are usually made of oil and paper.

After you have managed to assemble the machine using available materials, you should test it without any loads. All elements must “get used to” each other in order to work as a single complex. During the testing process, some shortcomings may appear, they will need to be eliminated. For a homemade circular machine, a motor from a washing machine may be ideal.

Such power plants operate from a 220-volt network; they have good efficiency and an acceptable rotation coefficient. If you install a three-phase motor (it is powered by 380 volts), you will have to buy additional capacitors to reformat the unit to 220 volts. Sometimes they use units with a gasoline engine - such power plants have good efficiency and are unpretentious during operation.

The most important element in a homemade unit is the shaft. You can grind it yourself from a metal pig. It is not difficult to make such an element on a lathe. It is important to maintain the centering of the part so that there is no unnecessary vibration of the mechanism. Special grooves are machined on the shaft where the saw blade and pulleys will be attached. Sometimes recesses for attaching knives are also machined. The size of the saw blade itself is directly related to the power of the engine. The diameter should be 3.5 times the thickness of the product. There are also proven calculations: for 110 mm of material thickness, an engine power of 1 kW will be required.

Craftsmen often make a circular saw together with a jointer on the same base. In this case, both tools can work from the same engine. A jointer is capable of cleaning a wooden surface to a mirror shine; its presence in combination with a circular saw is more than appropriate.

From a hand-held circular saw

It is also easy to assemble a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw. The sliding stop can be made from angles that are mounted on both sides of the rotating element (disc with teeth). The slot width is usually up to 5 millimeters. All edges must be processed so that they are slightly rounded. All corners are made with crossbars that should bind them tightly. You can use bolts and nuts as fastenings.

A metal clamp should be attached to the body. The screw tie is mounted at the bottom of the block. The clamp (thickness up to 2 mm) in conjunction with the rear pillar is a single unit that can withstand significant loads. The stop is fixed at the rear of the unit. The washers that create the gap can be moved by adjusting the size of the slot between the disk and the sides of the stop.

It is best to do the transmission using lino belts - if a foreign object gets in, then when jammed, such pulleys will slip, which eliminates the possibility of injury. A pulley with a larger size is placed on the engine, a pulley with a smaller diameter is placed on the circular shaft - in this ratio the optimal number of revolutions is achieved.

From a chainsaw

To make a circular saw from a chainsaw, you will need a metal canopy that will be mounted to the body of the saw. The engine is already available, so making the unit will not be very difficult. You will also need two channels measuring 185x8000 mm. You will also need corners (55 x 100 mm) and two pieces of rails that turn with their soles up. Holes of 16 mm are drilled at the base of the sawmill, with a distance of one meter between them.

Ties are made from pipes (length - 255 mm). The structure is fastened with bolts. The racks are made separately; the sawmill body will be attached to them. It is important to ensure that all elements are not deformed. The distance between the posts should be no more than one meter. Then the sawmill is equipped with a movable carriage. It is made from a steel sheet 620x55 mm, corners are welded to the metal from below. Small bearings are mounted on the trolley. Two corners should also be welded at the top, and a chainsaw is attached to them. Then a holder is made that will work as a clamp for a beam or log.

You will need a pipe with a diameter of 45 mm. To work, you will need a hose that will be mounted at a given height, which should not be greater than the length of the pipe itself. This is how a sawmill is made. Such a unit can process timber or logs of any cross-section.

From a drill

The drill is a universal tool, from which the following units can be made:

• mini drilling unit;
• lathe;
• mower;
• turbine.

Mechanics at service stations even make winches out of drills to lift fairly large loads. The drill is also actively used in construction, in particular in painting work. Farmers often use a drill to install seedlings in the ground. The circular from the drill will be compact. To create the tool you will need the following elements:

• bases made of boards 2-3 cm thick;
• vertical supports;
• the shaft on which the disk is mounted;
• electric drive in the form of a drill.

Instead of boards, you can also use chipboard sheets with a thickness of at least 30 millimeters. On such material you should cut a rectangle measuring 310x255 mm. Also for the desktop you will need a 5 mm thick duralumin sheet. This material is good because it has an acceptable stiffness coefficient and at the same time low weight. A hole measuring 165x12 mm is cut in the place marked with a marker.

You can also make the fasteners for the drill itself yourself. The assembly for the shaft with the saw can be easily found on any construction market. During operation, a lot of dust will arise, so you should look for a bearing with protection - this will significantly extend its service life. A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to the standard algorithm:

• all main parts are attached to the base;
• then the table is mounted;
• the drill is connected, tests are done.

The equipment requires compliance with safety precautions:

• the work area should be cleared;
• the workpiece should work smoothly, without any delays;
• the machine must be equipped with a protective screen;
• garbage should not accumulate on the machine, it should be removed in a timely manner;
• You should do a preventive inspection of the unit and lubricate it.

This mechanical device makes it possible to process not only wooden products. If you install good cutters, you can work with non-ferrous metals, PVC, chipboard, and bars.

Homemade devices

Making a circular saw is not that difficult; problems may arise when fitting the components. Choosing all the elements correctly so that they work flawlessly is an important task. The shaft must have self-adjusting bearings if the unit is used daily. It is best to select the bearings themselves with two rows of balls, which will be adjusted using a clamping nut.

The working surface must have a “grid” marking. Without this coordinate system, accurate woodworking is quite difficult. The protective casing must not be neglected - during operation it reliably protects the device from mechanical damage. A circular saw operates in different modes when working with different materials, so it is advisable to have a device that controls such a process. Several grooves should be made on the shaft so that it is possible to rearrange the pulleys, thus changing the speed.

The parallel fence is a necessary device for working with large workpieces. You can make them yourself from plywood, boards or chipboard. The stop size usually does not exceed 25 mm. The stop is attached using self-tapping screws or bolts.

When you have to saw bars or make several cuts from different directions, you need a stop that has a “P” configuration. At its base lies a board 30 mm thick. Sidewalls 12 mm thick are screwed to the base. Thus, the emphasis is installed on a beam, the size of which from the cutting point corresponds to the size of the cutting disc. On both sides it is pressed against the beam with clamps. If the beam is too massive, then it is rearranged and another cut is made.

There is also an edge stop that is in demand. To make it requires a lot of time and good qualifications of the craftsman. Be sure to make a diagram before starting work. This stop is made from plywood (20 mm), and the stop strip is also made from this material. Manufacturing phases:

• longitudinal grooves for keys are cut;
• the keys are mounted on a thrust strip;
• Another groove is cut between the grooves made to secure the thrust strip;
• another hole is made in the base, its size corresponds to the saw blade of a circular saw;

Sidewalls-limiters are mounted, and there must be clamps in order to securely fasten them. To place the emphasis on the workpiece, the bar moves in the grooves and is fixed through the slot with clamps. It is best to immediately attach a ruler or tape measure to the frame - this makes the work much easier. The pusher is convenient for working with small workpieces - it allows you to fasten the part on both sides, which ensures precision in work. It is also important to do:

• elevator;
• riving knife;
• lifting mechanism.

If a three-phase motor (380 volts) is installed on the machine, then capacitors that can withstand a minimum voltage of 620 volts will certainly be required. These devices may be paper-based.

Capacitors are calculated according to the following scheme: per 1000 watts there are 100 µF for a working type capacitor. The capacity of the starting capacitor must be ordered twice as large. It should be remembered that the SB starting block is a device that automatically returns to its original position. This is very convenient, since literally a few seconds after the start you can begin the workflow.

• you cannot work with wood that contains metal fragments (nails, screws, etc.);
• marking the material is possible only with special clamps or substrates (this is especially true for long boards and timber);
• boards and timber from two meters in length must be processed by two people;
• when working with the disk, no sudden movements or jolts should be used, otherwise the device may jam or break;
• if the material has dimensions of 42 cm or more, it is recommended to use a special pusher;
• if the wood is heterogeneous (there are branches and knots), then it must be dissolved before work;
• You should always use gloves: both during operation and when cleaning the unit;
• Do not accumulate wood waste on the machine - this may cause a fire or short circuit.

The machine cannot be operated under the following circumstances:

• no guide bar;
• no casing;
• the gap is too wide (from 10 mm);
• there are no safety devices (raking cutter, holding fingers) that protect the worker from the workpiece falling off;
• the height of the riving knife exceeds the height of the saw blade (from 6 mm), the distance of its installation (17-110 mm).

The machine must have a chip collector. Be sure to wear safety glasses while working. When changing elements on the machine, it must be de-energized.

To learn how to make a circular saw with your own hands, see the following video.

A circular saw is a tool that no craftsman can do without. Such a unit is especially necessary in a country house or country house. But working with hand tools is not always convenient, and branded machines are quite expensive. A way out of the situation may be to independently manufacture such a device. The basis of such a home machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but also a grinder or even a drill.

Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands will cost much less than a ready-made store-bought version.

It’s not at all difficult to assemble a frame for a circular saw that is quite simple in design with your own hands. To make it you will need the simplest lumber and very little time.

Saw frame design

Before considering the design of the future machine, it is necessary to calculate the load that will fall on it. Because the main thing in such a frame is stability and reliability. For powerful industrial saws, the base is a reinforced welded steel structure. But such a unit is not needed for a home workshop. If you are just planning to assemble your own woodworking machine, then you should take into account the basic parameters of the tool itself. After all, saws are different, and, accordingly, the design of the table should be different.

First of all, you need to consider the power of the tool. Typically, for a home workshop, a unit is chosen whose parameters do not exceed 800 W. But, for example, when building a house or cottage, a fairly large volume of wood has to be cut. At the same time, the power of the circular saw should be greater. But experts do not recommend purchasing saws whose characteristics are higher than 1200 W. There is no justification for installing such a tool in a private workshop. And working on it will only increase energy costs.

Remember: the higher the productivity of your machine, the more stable the base for it should be. For professional circular saws, a base assembled from a metal profile is usually installed. Sometimes such frames are even built into the floor. Because vibration of the machine can lead to situations dangerous to life and health.

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Nuances to consider

The second parameter for choosing a saw is the depth of the intended cut. The thickness of the lumber processed on your machine depends on it. This parameter of professional and semi-professional models ranges from 4 to 7 cm. This is enough for sawing boards and even fairly thick plywood. But it will be inconvenient to process logs on such a machine. In addition, it is worth considering that this characteristic of a saw built into the frame with your own hands is reduced. The depth of the cut becomes smaller by about 1 cm. But this can be changed if the design of the table includes the ability to raise or lower the disk.

When choosing a tool, it is necessary to take into account its rotation frequency. If you need a circular saw to prepare building material, then this parameter may be lower. When an even and clean cut is needed, the rotation speed must be quite high. This is necessary, for example, for making furniture. But even this situation has its own nuances. This saw is not suitable for processing plastic materials. Due to too high tool speeds, the disc heats up and the plastic melts. Therefore, it is worth choosing a unit whose rotation speed does not exceed 4000 rpm; in this case, the table for a circular saw can be assembled from wood. The vibration of such a machine is insignificant and additional reinforcement of the frame is not required.

The last thing you need to consider when making your own woodworking machine is the location of the buttons and other controls. When assembling a circular saw with your own hands, remember that access to the controls must be safe. This rule is especially relevant if the tool is installed at the bottom of the tabletop. In this case, it makes more sense to install the panel with switches on the outside of the machine. Or provide a rising tabletop. This design will also help in servicing the unit. After you have taken into account all the little details and nuances, you can proceed directly to making the table.

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Preparatory stage of work

The simplest version of a table for a circular saw is a structure assembled from boards and fairly thick plywood from which the tabletop is made. In this case, the tool itself is fixed at the bottom of a stationary (non-rising) tabletop. There is a special slot in the frame cover for the disk. A drawing of such a machine is shown in Fig. 1.

The dimensions for the bed can be changed so that it is convenient for you to work. The average table height is taken as an example. It is 100-115 cm. But much depends on the height of the person who will work with the tool. In addition, the length of the tabletop can also be changed as desired. If you plan to work with boards whose length exceeds 2.5 m, then the table top should be larger. Then it is necessary to make changes to the structure itself and add an additional pair of supports (legs). Otherwise the bed will vibrate too much.

For the countertop, you can take plywood, whose thickness should be at least 50 mm. But you can also use fiberglass slabs and plexiglass. But experts do not recommend using chipboard, since this material is not strong enough.

The table top can be polished and coated with several layers of varnish. This will ensure sufficient sliding of the sawn materials. But it is much wiser to strengthen a sheet of iron on the tabletop. Then the surface of the bed will be much more reliable, and the machine will last you longer.

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Required materials and tools

For a woodworking machine, it is necessary to provide guides. They will help you cut the material accurately. This structure is welded from a metal corner and secured to the tabletop with clamps.

It is not recommended to install stationary guides, because in the future you will not be able to change their position.

To make a table you will need the following materials:

• sheet of plywood (countertop made of another material);
• sheet of iron;
• board with a section of 5*10 cm;
• timber with a section of 5*5 cm;
• clamps – 2 pcs;
• metal corner for guides;
• hand circular saw.

In addition, it is wiser to prepare in advance all the tools that will be needed to make the table:

• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• electric drill, screwdriver;
• milling machine or hand cutter (you can do without this tool);
• measuring instruments (ruler, square, tape measure).

When everything you need is ready, you can proceed directly to assembling the table. Some craftsmen make frames from old kitchen or dining tables. But such a design is unlikely to last long enough. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the parts yourself. At the same time, you can take into account your individual needs.

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Assembling the saw table

The manufacture of the frame begins with the formation of the tabletop. The plywood sheet is marked so that 2 edges of the cover coincide with the edges of the sheet. The workpiece is cut out using a jigsaw or hacksaw. If desired, the edge of the cut can be processed with a milling cutter. But this operation is not mandatory. Because the main parameter in a table for a circular saw is its reliability, not its beauty. The table top is roughened with sandpaper.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the tabletop. To do this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the unit’s sole. The easiest way to do this is to remove the blade from the tool and simply trace the required part of the saw. These parameters are necessary to form the seat.

Using a hand cutter, wood is selected to a depth of approximately 0.8-1 cm. If you do not have such a tool, then the work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

After the seat is ready, be sure to try on the saw, adjusting the recess if necessary. Mark the locations for fixing the fasteners and the slots for the disk. If you want the saw blade to lower and rise at your request, then you need to build a pendulum mechanism for the table. In this case, the slot should have the shape of a truncated pyramid. Moreover, the hypothetical top of this figure is directed downwards. An example of a drawing of such a design with a belt drive is shown in Fig. 2. It makes more sense to make the frame itself for the lifting mechanism from metal corners that are welded together.

It is not difficult to assemble a circular saw with your own hands. Homemade devices are often found in the workshops of people who have the necessary skills to work with tools.

All actions during manufacturing must be performed carefully, observing safety regulations.

Drawings of the device will make the process of assembling a circular saw with your own hands more understandable.

Assembly order

A homemade circular saw can be easily assembled with your own hands if you have an unnecessary grinder in your home workshop.

To complete the assembly of the device, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• Bulgarian;
• aluminum corner;
• nuts;
• metal rod or pipe;
• metal sheet;
• sliding stop (needs to be assembled);
• axial handle (needs to be made).

First of all, a stop with the necessary holes is constructed. It is constructed using short parts of a metal angle. The corner trims will be located on both sides of the toothed disk.

For them, it is necessary to make recesses on the sides with a depth of 0.2 to 0.5 cm. To ensure that the lower edges of the corners do not come into contact with the element being cut, they should be smoothed.

The parts are secured at the back and front with transverse ligaments using nuts and bolts.

The assembly diagram of the stop is not complicated. A metal clamp is placed on the body, the tie of which is made from the bottom of the device.

Then a hole is prepared through which the product is secured with a clamp for rear fastening, which secures the stop for subsequent sliding.

In the gearbox of the device, holes with threads are drilled into which small parts will be attached.

At the beginning of work, the gearbox is disassembled to determine a suitable place where the recesses will be made.

Recesses are required for subsequent fastening of the axial handle. If you use the handle located on the side of an ordinary angle grinder, then making a hole will be quite difficult.

The next stage is making the handle. The part can be constructed using a rod or tube made of metal bent upward. Its ends will later be attached to the gearbox.

If the handle is made in the form of a horn, then its far end should be flattened and recesses made for the axle. A forward-facing part is inserted into the recesses located in the gearbox. The edges of the part are pressed.

Using washers under the front part of the stop, the gap parameters are equalized along the entire length of the circular saw.

If you use a 0.6 cm rod, you will need thin washers. A thread is applied to the back of the rod.

The part is then placed into the recess on the handle. The device is now ready for use.

When operating a circular saw, you must follow safety rules, especially you should not drink alcoholic beverages, as their consumption leads to impaired coordination.

Table saw assembly

Assembling a circular saw with your own hands at home is not a very difficult job; you just need to prepare all the necessary parts and tools, select the design and follow the drawings and instructions exactly.

A table circular saw is easily assembled from a regular one. The finished device will have compact dimensions.

To do this work, you need to assemble a frame from a thin tube or rod 18 - 20 mm, made of metal, to which the lever is attached.

The part of the structure located below must be bent in the direction of the cut. This element is attached to the table with self-tapping screws.

The stand for the device must be stable. Rocking the saw while working can be very dangerous because any careless movement can result in the loss of fingers or an arm.

It is best to make your table out of metal, securing its supports to the floor.

On the crossbar you need to place a lever made of a tube in the shape of the letter “T”. The lever should turn freely.

The part is cut across into several sections. After completing the installation of the structure, all elements are connected using clamps.

A homemade mini circular saw is pulled and fixed with clamps to the vertical outer part with your own hands.

The assembled circular saw can be used in the home workshop as a cutting tool. Before starting work, insert a cutting wheel into the grinder.

To process thick boards, you need to use a full-fledged machine. The carriage is used to trim the elements. It is assembled from several beams attached to the base and performing a guiding function.

Having understood how to assemble the device, you need to select the materials and tools suitable for the job. At a minimum, you will need a working grinder and various consumables.

But to assemble the device yourself, you need special skills. If you do not have the necessary dexterity, then it is better to purchase a circular electric saw, in the correct, reliable and safe operation of which you can be absolutely sure.

The described method allows you to assemble a small circular saw that can be used in a home workshop or your own shed.

How to assemble a stationary device?

Having learned how to make a circular saw, we begin to assemble the device. A stationary saw differs from a mini tool only in the size of the saw blade.

The statina must have a base of sufficient width without curvature, with a cutout for a saw. More often, the base is made using plexiglass, plywood, chipboard and ordinary sheet metal.

The parameters of the closing surface are determined taking into account the pressure exerted on the statin. The power cord for the circular saw is also attached to the base.

The statin cover must be freely removable, since access to the machine may be required at any time.

The table for the structure will need to be made independently.

It is covered with a tin or steel sheet, since the wood passing over plastic and wood during work gradually forms grooves on the coating. Because of the holes and indentations, it will be very difficult to make a quality cut.

If the plank is planned to be sliding, then it is necessary that the table surface have absolutely parallel opposite edges.

For smooth sliding along the edges without changing the desired angle, slides are made using an aluminum corner.

The cutting disc should protrude no more than a third of its diameter above the table surface, otherwise the tool will be dangerous to life.

But even a minimal protrusion of the cutting element can cause serious injuries if used incorrectly.

Before starting work on assembling a circular saw, you should compare the power of the existing electric motor with the required one. Parts with a thickness of more than 150 mm will be quite difficult to saw with a homemade machine.

The stop, which can be adjusted during operation, is made from a fragment of a metal corner 7-8 cm. It should be 40 mm longer than the tabletop.

Then a stop is placed on the surface of the table, which is secured with bolts. The emphasis is set according to special measurements previously established between the working part of the device and it.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disc with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer the manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

• laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
• 16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
• bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts.

Any hand-held circular saw will work for this table. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the body is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the table top. Markings are made on the back side of the plywood. 2 central axles will be required. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part fits into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

The plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the cutting table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. The usual “Start-start” button is installed on the side. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Manufacturing of a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. The drawings contain all the necessary dimensions. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.