DIY wooden boat. DIY boat made of plywood for fishing and recreation How to make a wooden boat from boards

Installing a set of frame patterns on the slipway, checking their alignment.

Installing a finished transom glued from slats, removing the mold from it to ensure a tight fit of the boat hull skin. Gluing the support block under the fin to the transom.

Attaching the laminated stem, glued in advance from 4-5 layers of thin strips with epoxy, to the slipway, removing the mold from it to ensure a tight fit of the boat hull skin.

Sheathing the boat hull with a grooved boat plank. The construction of the boat hull starts from the sides to the keel. The plank is positioned with the groove up and the ridge down. In this case, an epoxy compound is applied into the groove using a syringe without a needle along the entire length without gaps so that the epoxy is slightly squeezed out when the planks are mated. Grooved wooden plank must be completely dry, pre-dried, because even dry wood has atmospheric humidity at any given time, and in our climate it is usually excessive for gluing a boat together. Under the slipway, to effectively set the epoxy, you have to turn on the heater, covering it with a light box covered with film at the end of the working day. If the original plank is not completely dried, then it performs poorly; when reheated, it may show a crack along the side, which forms at the moment when the epoxy has not yet set and the planks begin to dry out. Micro changes in the width of each plank are enough for them to develop a huge force along the entire generatrix of the boat hull in the transverse direction when drying out.

The plank is attached to each frame pattern with a thin nail without a head.

We have this homemade nail, made from a thread of steel cable. Any construction nail is much thicker and less bending strength. The nail is not driven deeply, only to fix the bar at a given point and position. The forming patterns are pre-covered with tape. The epoxy is partially squeezed out and into the boat hull, but gluing the strips to the patterns is unacceptable.

The set of the bottom of the boat is completed with the insert of a plank of the same thickness as the plank, but wider, cut according to the approximate ready-made template and carefully fitted into the gap remaining at the end of the set. The edges of this board are also tucked under a semicircular ridge for inserting into the grooves of the entire perimeter.

Assembling and gluing the hull of a boat is not so much labor-intensive as it is very responsible and, along with fastening the sides, is one of those jobs that can only be done with four hands, two people. One needs to hold and bend the bar, inserting it into the groove, ensuring that the epoxy is squeezed out, the other needs to fasten it with a nail. A nail is simply inevitable here, no matter how sorry it would be to make holes in a beautiful plank. There is simply no other way to securely fasten a boat plank that bends with force. The nail holes are then carefully sealed and end up as inconspicuous rows of small spots slightly darker than the background of the wood.

The next day after gluing the boat hull is completed, the nails can be safely removed, but carefully, because wood tends to be embossed, pressed through, we don’t care final finishing The surface needs to be undamaged.

Gluing the keel from three thin strips from the transom and along the entire length of the stem.

Before this, the gluing area is leveled, and the ends of the planks facing the stem are first roughly, and then carefully planed and scraped together with part of the stem to form a smooth strip of a certain width from the bottom to the very bow. It should be noted that not every plank is suitable for particularly bendable parts, just as not every initial blank board is suitable for cutting out a boat plank. Any curls, knots, or tarring are unacceptable. For strong bending, the location of the annual rings in the plank is also important, as well as purely individual, visually indeterminable properties of the sample.

Now you can finally free the surface of the boat from fasteners - nails. The glued boat remains rigidly standing on the template frames.

Final finishing and smoothing of the outside surface of the boat. Primer with liquid epoxy compound, slightly diluted with acetone. Epoxy is a rather capricious material; in some conditions it may stop hardening altogether, in particular when there is an overdose of acetone in the primer. The temperature regime during “acceleration” (kneading and the beginning of setting) and subsequent hardening of the epoxy composition is also very important. In any case, it is necessary to mix the epoxy composition heated to a certain temperature, which activates the reaction, but does not make it “uncontrollable” - the composition can simply overheat before our eyes and begin to rapidly harden.

Gluing fiberglass. We switched from grade 100 to 200 - fiberglass is a little more noticeable if you look closely at the finished boat, but it is much stronger than "weaving". When gluing fiberglass to the hull of the boat, in order to avoid folds and unevenness, you need to move gradually from the keel to the side and from the middle to the bows. Our practice has shown that it is much simpler and more technologically advanced to apply liquid epoxy over fiberglass with the same end result. With the correct dosage and temperature conditions The fiberglass fabric is completely saturated.

The fiberglass fabric is glued to the boat in two pieces, with a small and neat overlap (in two layers) on the keel. It is better to apply gluing using a brush, and dilute the epoxy quite a bit with a solvent until it reaches a paintable consistency. By the way, epoxy becomes more liquid even with a slight increase in temperature. But when applied to the surface, unfortunately, it immediately cools down and becomes too viscous to completely saturate the fiberglass. Therefore, in this case, a solvent is used.

It is necessary to smooth out the drips before the epoxy hardens, and it is also very useful to warm up the entire hull thoroughly by covering the boat with a cover box. Oddly enough, a good and convenient heater in this case is a regular hair dryer of sufficient power; you just need to slightly cover, partially seal, the air intake of the hair dryer. Under a cover that is not in contact with the boat hull, a hair dryer allows you to heat the curing epoxy to the desired temperature and make this heating uniform due to the effective circulation of heated air. Heating allows you to “disperse” the epoxy and drive the solvent out of it. Immediately after a short warm-up, the hull of the boat must be carefully examined and ironed with a soft (preferably polyethylene) spatula - unacceptable bubbles may form under the fiberglass, especially if it has not been primed very well beforehand.

Trimming the edges of the fiberglass and sequentially applying 2 layers of epoxy (each is smoothed several times and sanded when set).

It is not possible to apply more than one layer per day; the curing time of epoxy resin is about 12 hours. Using ordinary plywood you can make a strong and well-swimming boat. Moreover, all this can be done with your own hands and practically without outside help . On average, it will take us about 2 - 3 thousand rubles to purchase materials for this invention, which is compared to a good rubber boat

(on average the price ranges from 8,000 to 12,000 rubles) is a fairly acceptable option. Stage 1: Necessary materials And the right tool
for boat:
- Sheet of plywood
- Adhesive based on polyurethane, Gorilla type;
- Nails
- Latex paint
- Silicone sealant
- Syringe for sealing seams
- Sandpaper
- Jigsaw
- Paracord
- Screwdriver
- Clamp
- Yardstick
- Drill

- Brush
Stage 2: Preparing parts

We divide the plywood sheet into 3 parts, which will serve as the main parts for the bottom of the boat: 46 cm x 61 cm, 31 cm x 61 cm and 61 cm x 168 cm.

The dimensions of the two sides are 31 cm x 244 cm.

For supports, small bars 2.5 cm x 5 cm x 240 cm are quite suitable. Three of these supports are needed.

To make the bow and stern, we need a block of 2.5 cm x 7.6 cm x 240 cm.

Two bars of 2.5 cm x 5 cm x 240 cm are suitable for the body. They need to be cut into several parts and then fastened with paracord.
Stage 3: Assembly.

We begin to assemble all the main parts of the boat, for this we use nails or pins.
1. Attach the left side of the boat to the bottom.
2. Then the stern - also to the bottom and left side of the boat.
3. Right side We attach it to the bottom and stern.
4. And we attach the bow part to the bottom and its 2 sides.

Before fastening the parts with nails, we first use glue.

Stage 4: Surface painting and polishing.
After we have assembled the boat together, we begin to thoroughly clean it from splinters and irregularities, using sandpaper (would be better suited 0 or 1). Then we begin to seal all the cracks with outside, which were formed during assembly, silicone sealant. And we leave it there outdoors for one day, so it will dry faster.

You will need to paint the boat in three layers: 1 - outside and 2 - inside. You should wait a while before applying a new coat.

Stage 5: First swim.
Well, the time has come to check our “unsinkable longboat”. If something goes wrong with your assembly, I advise you to watch the video of American radio host Derek Didriksen, in which he creates and tests the same version of the boat.

Stage 6: Motor.
If you have a suitable outboard motor, you can slightly improve the resulting boat.

Happy sailing everyone!

Active fishing from the water for predators or peaceful fish, hunting for waterfowl, family vacations on a pond - all this is united by one obligatory element - a boat. Modern trading enterprises can offer a great variety of options for vessels of various displacements made of rubber, polyvinyl chloride, plastic and metal. And many worthy products often have one significant drawback- high price. Coupled with the need to purchase a motor for a boat, the overall price of pleasure becomes unaffordable for many. At the same time, there is quite a budget option The solution to the problem is to make a ship with your own hands. In order to better understand the intricacies of manufacturing wooden boat Please read our instructions carefully.

For a long time in construction and furniture production this type has been widely used wood material like plywood. High strength with its small thickness, durability and even resistance to moisture during additional processing - all this prompted craftsmen to use it for the independent manufacture of fishing boats equipped with a motor.

Drawings of a future wooden boat

If the dimensional characteristics of the vessel we offer do not satisfy you, it will not be difficult to find a program that calculates the parameters of all parts of the boat depending on the desired dimensions and displacement. 3D modeling capabilities will allow you to view the product from all angles.

The proposed boat has the following dimensions of the main parts:

bow and stern,

reinforcing ribs depending on location:

(Click on the picture to enlarge)

Getting started self-production watercraft, you should study a number of additional literature and become familiar with the name and purpose of the main parts of the vessel. Limitations on the length of this article do not allow us to provide users with this information.

Boat assembly

The material for making the boat, as noted above, is plywood. In this case, it is advisable to purchase moisture-resistant sheets. In this case, your product is guaranteed to be used for many years without the need frequent repairs. It is better to make the bottom from 12 mm material, and for the sides you can purchase 10 or even 8 mm.

From purchased sheets, having previously made patterns, for example, on sheets of wallpaper, you should use a jigsaw to cut out the details of the boat. Unfortunately, the industry does not produce sheets 5 meters long, so it becomes necessary to glue the bottom and sides from two parts. For this, it is best to use EDP glue, since it has maximum moisture resistance, unlike water-soluble PVA. You can glue using overlays on one or both sides in the form of strips of plywood with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters.

In addition, it is necessary to glue together internal stiffeners from strong birch bars located at the required angles according to the drawings shown above. Some options involve the installation of solid saddle cans, glued together from two side parts and a flat bench. This significantly reduces the internal space of the vessel, but increases its buoyancy even when upside down, since air is retained in the hermetically sealed cans.

Many novice shipbuilders are faced with the problem of joining plywood parts located under different angles. There is a method called “sew and glue”. It involves connecting parts with steel wire or a strong thread, for example, nylon, through pre-drilled holes in the fastening edges of the parts, 2-3 millimeters in diameter, spaced no more than 5 millimeters from the edge. After “stitching” the body, all joints are additionally glued with fiberglass impregnated with EDP glue or epoxy resin. It is better to glue both inside and outside the boat. This will ensure the strongest possible connection.

It is better to start assembling the hull from the side parts - the sides, bow and stern. Drill holes according to the above parameters with equal spacing and tighten the body with thread or wire. Check mutual arrangement elements, secure the sides to the stiffeners using self-tapping screws with glue, and glue all the seams with fiberglass, carefully expelling air bubbles from under it. Leave the case until the glue dries completely.

Using the same technology, attach the bottom to the side parts of the body.

Along the sides along their upper edge, glue the so-called mooring beam, designed to protect the hull of your wooden boat from damage when moored to piers or the sides of other ships.

A mandatory element of a boat that ensures safe turning, especially when moving with a motor, as well as lateral stability of the vessel is the keel. It is attached to the bottom and should be located along its midline.

It is better to make the central keel in typesetting, glued together from several thin slats.

Additional glues in the bow will help give a wooden boat greater strength.

and aft parts.

In addition, it is better to further strengthen the transom - the part of the stern on which the outboard motor is attached.

After all the main and additional parts of the boat are fixed in their designated places, you can begin testing the product. Transport the boat to the nearest body of water, launch it and check for leaks and load capacity. The noted deficiencies are marked and eliminated.

Final appearance we add coloring to the product oil paints in several layers.

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Buying a boat is quite an expensive business. That is why many people are wondering how to make their own small and reliable boat. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. However, it is quite painstaking and requires a lot of attention to detail.

The first and most important step is to determine what the vessel will be made of. There are not many options, let's look at them:

• Rubber based fabric. The end result is an inflatable boat.
• Plastic.
• Steel.
• Tree.
• Plywood.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages that are immediately noticeable. But now we will talk about a boat made of wood.

Having decided on the material, you can move on to the next stages of planning and preparation.

Manufacturing Features

There are really a lot of features, so let's look at them in detail:

1. Working with wood. First and main feature– ability to work with wooden structures and with wood in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads a particular material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on woodworking. They are very easy to find and are freely available on the Internet.
2. Selection of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaks. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
3. Assembly location. Manufacturing will definitely require a lot of space and time. For professionals, manufacturing and assembly can take from 4 to 10 days, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. This is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
4. Tools. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need a number of tools (which we will look at later). In addition, it is advisable to have an extra pair of hands during some stages of assembly.

These are the main features you need to know, but as you progress, you will likely encounter others.

Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production

Deciding on the sizes

One of the most important stages at the planning stage. The size determines the capacity, load capacity and weight. It is very important to maintain the correct dimensions so that the boat is stable on the water.

They can be changed at your discretion, but within reason:

• Length of the entire structure. The length can vary from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people – approximately 3 meters. Three people – 3.5 – 4 meters. A boat 3-4 meters long can easily support up to 5-6 people; the issue here is more about comfort.
• Width. Also one of the main criteria. Average widths are 1 – 1.5 meters. The greater the width, the more stable it is wonderful. On the other hand, the greater the width, the less maneuverability. It is necessary to find a middle ground. It is different for everyone depending on the person’s body, the load that will be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
• Board height. The average and recommended side height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it either higher or lower, depending on your desire.

It is based on these dimensions that it will be necessary to make all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.

Moving on to the drawings, we must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. IN this moment the drawing can be made without having similar skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all the requirements and desires.

In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you must immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller, but no less important details. It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that you do not have to adjust them in the future.

Basic planes necessary for constructing a theoretical drawing of a boat hull

Required materials and tools

Having dealt with all the theoretical issues, we move on to practice. Collecting all the tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, so this process must be treated with special care.

Consider the list of tools and instruments that will be needed during assembly:

This is the main list of what will be useful during assembly. In addition, other tools may be useful in the process. For example, a hacksaw, a hammer, clamps, etc.

Selection of boards for lining the bottom of a punt boat

Manufacturing process

Let's move on to the most interesting part, the manufacturing process. Let's present it in the form of step-by-step instructions.

There is no room for haste or shortcomings, so we do everything extremely carefully and clearly:

Boat testing

After creating and assembling the vessel, we move on to testing it.

You can test the boat in different ways, but the best number of stages is:

• The first waterproof test can be done in the yard. To do this, we turn the boat over and place it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next we pour it on a large number of water. To do this, it is best to use a hose and “water” for 5-10 minutes. After this, the boat can be turned over and checked to see if water has gotten inside.
• Now, knowing that the schooner does not allow water to pass through, you can proceed to access to deep water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat begins to quickly take on water, it is much easier to get it out of the shallows.

It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour.

Let's look at a few tips that may be useful to a beginner in the difficult task of designing and assembling:

• When assembling, do not spare materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of a boat, it is worth spending extra time, but carefully going over all the joints with glue or resin. It will be very difficult to correct such errors in the future.
• Do it with reserve. Excess parts of everything can be removed, for example, by sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This also applies to all other details.
• Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them using a drill. This will prevent cracks from appearing.
• Don't skimp on materials. How better quality wood, the longer and better it will serve in the future.

Hunting and fishing favorite hobby many men. Sitting with a fishing rod early in the morning in the reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.

Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, are used in different ways - rubber, aluminum, boats made of PVC and even plywood.

You can buy absolutely any watercraft, if only you had the money, but how can you make a boat with your own hands? We'll tell you in our article.

Plywood boat

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

The most important preparatory point in construction is the boat drawings. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to waste time and effort on remaking and adjusting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. By transferring the drawings to paper, we will receive life-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now we can “cut out” our product and cut out the blanks with a jigsaw. Once you have all the cut out parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect load-bearing elements structures, transom (cut of the aft part) and frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

To connect all parts, use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but will also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having secured the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to strengthening the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this with wooden corners, then proceed to sealing the seams.

For getting suture material Mix epoxy resin and Aerosil in equal proportions. Next, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the entire structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs processing; it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, and sand the surface after drying. Then prime and paint.

Repairing damage to a PVC inflatable boat

If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then you probably often experience leaks due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult; it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and do better repairs in a workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat within a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, upon return it is necessary to redo everything, since a patch glued hastily and without proper technology will not last long.

If a puncture occurs while fishing or hunting, use only the repair kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

For overhaul boats you need:

• Repair kit (included with the boat);
• Scissors;
• Roller;
• Pencil;
• Solvent promoting degreasing;
• Brush for adhesive.

Cut out a rounded patch from spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Note!

Spread the area to be repaired on a flat surface, clean it from dirt and degrease it with a solvent. Place the patch over the hole and trace with a pencil, coat both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and again give time to dry. After 5 minutes, the restoration itself can begin. Touch the surface of the patch with your finger; it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site; a hairdryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the adhesive side, and carefully expel all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then leave it to dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Note!

DIY boat photo

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