What mixtures are needed to level the ceiling? How to level a ceiling

The condition of the ceiling surface depends on many factors, but it is close to ideal only after recent repairs. In all other cases, there are defects on the ceiling - the most visible base of the room - that homeowners strive to eliminate as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The main criterion for the quality of ceilings is their evenness, if you do not take into account some original finishing methods, for example, wooden beam. Only on a leveled base or by hiding the defective surface under a masking shell can a decorative or, at least, classic finishing of this structural element premises. Let's look at several of the most common ways to level a ceiling with your own hands, depending on the significance of its defects.

Types of ceiling bases

In modern housing construction The most common are beam or beamless reinforced concrete floors, which can be of the following design:

• monolithic;
• prefabricated;
• prefabricated monolithic.

There are other technological solutions - arched brick, hipped, wooden and other structures, but homeowners are much less likely to encounter the problem of leveling such foundations.

Monolithic floors are made by pouring concrete into formwork with reinforcement installed locally - in the interfloor plane.

Prefabricated roof structures are made from ready-made reinforced concrete slabs (hollow or monolithic), mounted end-to-end on beams or load-bearing walls.

Prefabricated monolithic floors- a relatively new technology that consists of installing hollow aerated concrete blocks end-to-end between beams, on top of which pouring is performed cement mortar, connecting the structure into one whole.

Each method has both certain advantages and disadvantages, which must subsequently be neutralized.

Ceiling defects

The degree to which it is necessary to level the ceilings after installing the floors depends on many factors, but even with an impeccable base, it is largely determined by the installation technology.

The ceiling surfaces of monolithic reinforced concrete coverings require the least correction - they are located in the same horizontal plane and have no joints.

The situation is different with prefabricated and prefabricated monolithic structures.

On prefabricated floors there are differences in the level of the slabs, which can also be located at some small angle to the horizontal. In addition, to mask such installation defects or cracks, builders often cut rustications along the seams, which eventually collapse and require repair or sealing.

The prefabricated monolithic floor structure has a flat surface of the ceiling base, on top of which plastering is performed to hide the joints of the blocks. But the difference is in the materials used to make the blocks, mounting solution and leveling composition causes cracking in the plaster.

Ceilings of any design require routine maintenance and repair, but the list and volumes of finishing work required may vary significantly depending on the types of defects that require a specific elimination technology.

The complex of finishing works to eliminate ceiling defects can be combined with the general definition of “leveling”, which, depending on the method of execution, will include certain operations.

Methods for leveling ceiling surfaces

In essence, ceiling leveling methods can be divided into wet and dry. Wet includes leveling using various hardening mixtures, dry includes installation of plasterboard, suspended and suspended ceilings.

Wet and dry leveling methods, naturally, differ in the composition of the work required.

Generally speaking, wet leveling methods include:

• removal of poor quality or worn coating;
• sealing old or cutting new rustications;
• filling potholes and cracks;
• bringing the base of the ceilings into a single horizontal plane;
• final leveling of the surface.

Dry methods consist of the following basic operations:

• installation of the frame with leveling;
• ceiling installation.

Let's consider these methods, which are equally widely used when repairing ceilings.

Repair of ceilings using leveling mixtures

If the ceiling base is concrete, the height of the premises is around 2.5 meters, and there are no large differences in surface level, then the most rational method of repair would be to level the ceiling using special mixtures, since installing the frame will significantly reduce the height of the room.

Surface preparation

Preparatory work is especially important, since the force of gravity will constantly act on the leveling layers, aimed at breaking.

If the ceilings are finished with water-based paint, then it must be completely removed. The whitewash is moistened and soaked in water using a paint roller, after which it is easily removed with a narrow spatula.

If the finishing material is oil paint or enamel, then the amount of work to remove it depends on the condition of the base. If the ceilings are smooth, then the surface is tapped with a hammer, and the paint along with the plaster is removed only where the plaster solution has peeled off.

If there are differences in height or deviations from the horizontal of the slabs, when leveling mixtures have to be applied to them, oil paint must be completely removed from the ceiling. This is done with a grinder with a steel dry-cutting disc - the paint layer is chipped off the surface along with part of the plaster; unevenness in the form of small convex areas can also be removed with a grinder.

Important! Work as a grinder (grinder) is performed in protective glasses and a respirator.

The joints between the slabs are also cleared of fillers - damaged rustications are knocked down manually with a chisel and hammer.

After removing construction waste, the room is ventilated and treated with a vacuum cleaner, and then the ceilings are primed with a ready-made hydrophobic primer or a self-prepared aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1:4. In this case, it is convenient to coat with a primer using a spray gun.

After a day, the surface is ready for the application of leveling mixtures.

How to level a defective concrete ceiling?

Leveling the ceiling with your own hands begins with sealing the rust. The gaps in the joints of the slabs are filled to the maximum depth with polyurethane foam, the excess of which is cut off after curing stationery knife, going 2-3 cm into the seam. A layer of basic cement-based leveling mixture is applied over the cut of the polyurethane foam. If the ceiling plane is flat and has no differences, then after curing the composition in the sealed rusts, the ceiling is waterproofed, and then the finishing putty is done with a gypsum-based composition, preferably with preliminary reinforcement over the seams with sickle tape.

The number of layers depends on the skill of the performer; usually two layers are applied - the second after the first has cured. Then the surface is sanded, cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner and coated with a primer.

If ceiling tiles have differences in height, the amount of leveling work increases significantly. In this case, the range of the magnitude of the differences is important, since the solution to the question of what exactly and what mixture to level the ceiling with depends on it.

You need to assume that leveling the ceilings wet method are produced with differences in height of up to 50 mm - a layer of plaster of even less thickness, made with violations of technology, poses a danger to life if it peels off and collapses.

Plastering ceilings with cement-sand mortar requires professional skills - applying freshly prepared mortar to the ceiling base and fixing it to it is difficult, and the slightest deviation from the recipe or the correct execution technique leads to the mixture falling. Therefore, take on the task of independently performing this work without the availability practical experience- an empty idea. And with differences in height up to 30 mm, leveling the ceiling with your own hands is quite possible - the characteristics of special mixtures based on cement or gypsum simplify this operation.

Marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling

Under the ceiling surface, a horizontal plane must be designated, to the level of which all base points must be lowered. To do this, first of all, determine the lowest corner of the ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level - the device is placed in the center of the room, leveled and, rotating it in a horizontal plane, one mark is made on the vertical corners of the walls of the room. Then measure the distances from these marks to the ceiling and select the smallest value - at this level the new ceiling plane should be located after leveling.

In the absence of a laser level, horizontal marks along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling can be set using a transparent flexible hose with water - if you fill it with water, then, according to the law of communicating vessels, the liquid levels at the ends of the hose will be at the same height.

Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls at the top and self-tapping screws are screwed in at 0.5 m increments, along which control cords are pulled along and across the room, forming the plane of the future ceiling.

Important! If any section of the ceiling surface is located below the level of the cords, then it must be cut off with a grinder with a cutting disc or all control cords must be lowered to the required amount.

Having the outline of the future area, measure the maximum thickness of the layer required to be applied to level the base. If this value is from 30 to 50 mm, then, as mentioned above, it is better to entrust this work to professionals who will plaster the ceilings with cement-sand mortar. If the layer does not exceed 30 mm, then you can level the ceiling in the apartment yourself using cement and gypsum mixtures.

Construction of control beacons

It is better to make a layer with a thickness of 20 to 30 mm from a cement-based mixture, laying it on a reinforcing steel mesh, fixed to the ceiling with staples or secured with self-tapping screws. The reinforcement will prevent the layer from collapsing even if it detaches from the base due to some factors.

Beacons are installed on top of the grid - rows of cones made of cement mixture height equal to the distance to the cord in this place. After the cones have hardened, they are connected with the same mixture in such a way as to create even and smooth guides for the rule, which will remove excess of the subsequently applied composition.

The leveling composition prepared according to the instructions is applied to the base with a wide spatula, if necessary, in layers, after the mixture of the previous application has cured and dried. In this case, the surface of the previous layer must be “combed” before setting - run over it with a notched trowel to create a profile to which the next layer will adhere more firmly.

Important! You cannot speed up the curing and drying process of the plaster by creating a draft or increasing the temperature in the room.

After completely filling the gaps between the guides, excess plaster is removed by running the rule over a fresh, slightly set layer - the device is moved along the guides, pressing against them and at the same time performing movements in transverse directions. The sinks remaining after the rule are filled with the same solution and grouted.

Leveling the ceilings is completed by applying finishing putty– this is done in two or three layers with intermediate drying and removal of convex marks from the movements of the spatula. Then the surface is sanded with sandpaper secured to a flat block or a special holder. The sanded base is primed with one of the hydrophobic compounds, after drying which is whitewashed or the surface is finished. decorative tiles.

Leveling ceilings with plasterboard

This method of repairing ceilings is less labor intensive and, unlike plastering works, does not require strong practical skills, although this technology has enough rules, non-compliance with which can result in damage to the coating soon after finishing.

Preparing the base

Exfoliated putty and plaster are removed from the ceilings, ceiling rustics are freed from old filling materials and sealed after priming, along with significant potholes. Then the ceiling is completely waterproofed - this will reduce the consequences in case of flooding from above, since drywall, even moisture-resistant, is not designed for direct contact with water.

Marking the frame plane

Let's consider the construction of the simplest, flat ceiling from plasterboard, since many other, more complex types of design are used.

Along the perimeter of the room at a certain distance from the ceiling (depending on the choice of design for future finishing), using a level or a transparent hose with water, markings of the starting level are applied - a horizontal line along which the installation of boundary profiles will be carried out.

The location of frame parts is marked on the ceiling, which can be of two types:

• continuous sheathing with cells measuring 60x60 cm - the joint of two adjacent gypsum boards should be located on the same profile, along it;
• linear arrangement of profiles - for longitudinal installation of gypsum boards along them with a distance between parallel guides of 40 cm, and transverse jumpers are mounted only under the joints of the sheets.

Calculation of material consumption

Both frame designs are reliable, so choose the one that requires less material consumption for the specific dimensions of the room.

Based on the completed markings, the material requirements are calculated:

• ud-profile – along the perimeter of the room plus 20%;
• cd profile – total length jumpers on the ceiling plus 20%;
• suspensions - based on a step of 60 cm.

The standard dimensions of a plasterboard sheet are 2.5 x 1.2 (m). With a simple ceiling configuration (flat, single-level), draw a sketch with dimensions and assemble the gypsum board on it, taking into account the design of the selected frame.

The number of self-tapping screws for installing drywall is taken as 100 pieces per 1 sheet.

Screws with holes - double the number of hangers plus the cost of installing the ud-profile in 40 cm increments.

Frame installation

Work begins with the installation of ud profiles along the perimeter of the room along the starting level. Then hangers are attached to the ceiling along the frame markings with screws, which, after installing the CD profiles, will be bent to attach jumpers to them with self-tapping screws.

The connection of perpendicularly located frame elements is carried out using a special cross - a “crab”. To increase the profile in length it is also used special device, but you can do without it - overlap the part of the next fragment with an overlap of 10 cm and side fastening with self-tapping screws.

In a room with a flat but not smooth ceiling, metal profiles can be replaced with wooden blocks, but they need to be treated with an antiseptic and primed with nitro varnish to protect them from moisture.

Laying drywall

Installation of gypsum boards is best done by two people, so as not to make special T-shaped supports.

Sheets are cut by cutting the product on one side with a stationery knife along a ruler, followed by a break in the direction of the cut.

If the humidity in the room is high, then use moisture resistant drywall– with GKLV marking and casing Green colour. In addition, the cutting surfaces of the sheets are coated with a primer nitro varnish - gypsum is hygroscopic. It wouldn’t be superfluous to cover the gypsum board with a layer of hydrophobic composition with inside– this will protect the sheets from deformation in case of minor leakage from above onto the stone base.

Basic rules for installing drywall on a frame:

• a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the sheet and the wall;
• installation of elements is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the transverse joints of the gypsum boards do not coincide;
• the fastening screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm, also in a checkerboard pattern, deepening the cap into the sheet by 1 mm to subsequently hide it with putty;
• the ends of the gypsum board sections at the joints are chamfered at an angle of 30-40 degrees (with treatment with nitro varnish) to allow for subsequent filling with the mixture to the full depth.

Plastering gypsum board ceilings

A ceiling mounted from gypsum plasterboard is primed along the joints with a latex-based composition using a paint roller or spray gun.

A day after priming, it is necessary to putty the drywall, starting with filling the seams along the perimeter of the walls and between the sheets that were chamfered before installation. Using a narrow spatula, fill the joints with a special mixture, for example, “Fugenfüller”, while simultaneously covering the screw heads recessed into the sheet with putty. On top of the layer of freshly laid putty along the seams, a reinforcing serpyanka tape is laid, which is embedded in the mixture with a spatula and additionally covered with the same composition.

The ceiling is given time to dry (1-2 days), after which the putty is treated with sandpaper over the serpyanka on the seams and in other areas where it was used. The sanded base is primed over the entire area, and the ceiling is ready for painting or other type of finishing.

Leveling the ceiling with plastic tiles

Another way to level ceilings is to install strip or rectangular plastic tiles. The essence of the principle is the same - creating an additional shell below the ceiling that will hide defects in the load-bearing base.

The technology for laying tiles is similar to installing drywall:

• preparation of the base;
• frame installation;
• laying tiles.

In this case, the edges of the tiles are made with a locking device, eliminating the need to putty them after installation.

veneer uneven ceiling using plastic tiles is not difficult even alone - by analogy with drywall, a frame is mounted, which is more conveniently made from wooden blocks - the tiles are attached to it with small nails driven into the underlayer.

The advantages of this method are that PVC tiles are not afraid of water, are easy to maintain on a daily basis and are available in a wide range of prices.

Dropped ceilings

This type of work can be considered not only as a way to level ceilings, but also as independent species finishing, the main purpose of which is the artistic cladding of the ceiling base, with the incidental result being its leveling.

The method is not always budget-friendly, unless you consider a variety suspended ceilings made from plasterboard. Suspended structures require significant ceiling heights, as well as professional skills, since, depending on the characteristics of the room, the finishing frames may differ in both material and installation method.

That's why universal instructions How to level ceilings by installing suspended finishes cannot be done - each specific case requires an individual approach.

Stretch ceiling

This is another technology that allows you to hide an unaesthetic ceiling base under a decorative shell. Stretch ceilings differ in the material of manufacture (elastic, fabric), the method of fastening to the base and artistic design.

Without professional skills, it is not reasonable to undertake leveling the ceiling with your own hands using this material - correcting errors made during the installation process reduces the aesthetics of the workmanship, and the cost of such cladding is quite high.

Conclusion

Since there are many ways to make an uneven ceiling even, if you decide to do it yourself, you should choose a technology that is close to your existing skills. Even being far from painting or plastering, you can level the ceiling by applying monotonous, frequently spaced strokes of putty, which will hide defects that were previously noticeable on a relatively flat surface. Therefore, if desired, you can find a correction method that is available both in technical design and in terms of cost level.

The main gist of the article:

1. Ceilings are an integral factor when assessing the aesthetics of home decoration.
2. Analysis of surface defects is necessary when choosing a leveling method.
3. Concrete ceilings are the most common type of flooring.
4. Low-cost leveling technologies concrete foundations.
5. A variety of methods for leveling ceilings allows even non-professionals to do this.

Whether it is necessary to plaster the ceiling is up to you to decide. You can always use other finishing materials, but plaster remains the most popular material to this day. In principle, you can apply this coating to any material yourself and then the price will not be significant.

Today we will talk about performing this work in detail. Also in the video in this article and photos you will see the most difficult moments and this will significantly speed up the work.

Why is plaster attractive?

Which plaster to choose for the ceiling is decided primarily by the material used to make the ceiling itself. After all, today it can be several materials. It is also worth understanding how suitable this coating is in your case; it is quite likely better to simply cladding it with a different material. So let's immediately figure out what we will achieve by using this coating.

Pros:

• This is the most best option from an economic point of view. Plaster allows you to improve the ceiling without large financial investments. Cassette and suspended ceilings are much more expensive than building mixtures.
• Almost all plaster solutions are environmentally friendly for humans and environment. After all, neither cement nor gypsum emit any substances harmful to health.
• Plastering the ceiling has another undeniable advantage - it does not hide the height of the room. The thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 5 centimeters.
• It is worth noting that suspended and tension ceiling coverings They also do not reduce the height of the room by much. It depends on what materials are chosen.

• • Plastering the ceiling surface does not require large expenditures if it is done independently. If you use the services of a master, you will have to pay a lot of money for the work. After all, this work is quite expensive.
  • Plastering hides differences in levels of ceiling surfaces and walls only in a limited range of 5 centimeters. The reason for this is not so much the colossal expense building material how life threatening. A thick layer of plaster may not stay on the ceiling and, when falling, cause irreparable damage to human health, even death.
  • For plastering you must have experience in performing of this type works. Many types of suspended ceilings can be installed quite well even by a person who has never done this before. But plastering large surfaces is unlikely to be possible for a beginner. The first time it is very difficult to achieve a smooth ceiling surface, which is necessary for painting (see How to paint a ceiling: do it yourself).

How to do plastering

What first steps need to be taken when plastering the ceiling surface we will now consider. Here, the ceiling material comes first; the preparation of the plane will depend on it.

Surface inspection

First of all, you need to decide: is ceiling plaster really necessary?

• If differences in surface levels are five millimeters or less, then you can get by with just puttying the ceiling. To do this you need to use a wide spatula and a rule.
• If the differences are more than five centimeters, then plastering poses a danger to humans. Beginners should limit the plaster layer to a level of 3 centimeters.

Preparing the surface for plastering

Let's consider the most unfavorable option: the old layer of plaster is destroyed in places and has fungal infections, the ceiling surface is replete with numerous cracks and differences in height levels.

How to prepare the surface in this situation:

• First you need to moisten the entire surface to be treated with water. The procedure should be repeated twice at intervals of 2 to 3 hours. This will soften the old plaster layer so that it can be easier to remove in the future. Wetting significantly reduces dust levels.
• Using a hard spatula, you need to clean the ceiling surface so that the floor slabs are visible. To clean difficult areas, you should use a hammer drill. The seams between the slabs must be freed from plaster, which holds weakly.
• The remaining cement dust and lime can be washed off with a sponge soaked in water.
• On next stage carry out treatment of areas affected by mold fungus. The minimum area of ​​the surface to be treated should be 20 centimeters. In rooms with high humidity treat the entire ceiling.

Attention: It should be noted that any liquid containing chlorine is suitable for destroying mold and mildew (this could be ordinary “Whiteness” or a similar product). But an antiseptic primer, in addition to getting rid of the fungus, prevents it from appearing again. In this case, savings are not practical.

• The final stage of preparatory work includes priming the ceiling surface using any primer. This will strengthen the outer concrete layer and improve its adhesion to the plaster mixture.

Which plaster to choose

It's no secret that plastering concrete ceilings is significantly different from how plaster is applied to a clay ceiling. Different compositions are simply used here.

The preparation of the solution and the rules of application will depend on them. Let's immediately look at what we have on the sales market and for what a certain composition is better suited. On each package there are, of course, instructions that must be studied, but you also need to take into account some of the characteristics of the material.

Cement-based plaster mixtures

If you are thinking about how to plaster a concrete ceiling, then this composition is suitable in most cases. Highest strength and a long period of operation are distinguished by cement-based plaster for ceiling surfaces.

For modern renovation Before decorating the ceiling surface, it must be made as smooth as possible. One of the leveling methods is to plaster the ceiling. The technology used is not too complicated, but requires care. You can do this work yourself if you wish.

Methods for leveling ceilings

In practice, one of two technologies is used - plastering the ceiling using beacons and without using them. The first option is considered correct, since then a ceiling surface lying in the same plane is obtained.

But sometimes you can find a ceiling that has a large difference in height. It is dangerous to apply a 5 cm layer of plaster on the surface, as it will most likely fall off. Even if you apply several coats of primer, there is no guarantee that the finish will hold.

In cases where the ceilings have a large curvature, experts advise leveling them by installing suspended ceilings. ceiling structures from plasterboard. True, not in all rooms the height allows you to take 10 centimeters from her. In such a situation, there is no need to doubt whether it is necessary to plaster the ceiling using beacons.

The essence of this technology is that in a certain area the ceiling surface will become smooth. There will not be too noticeable changes on it, it will look even. And the fact that the distance to flooring in different corners it differs by a couple of centimeters, it is impossible to determine “by eye”.

The main task that should be solved when using this technology is to make the junction of the ceiling and walls as smooth as possible. The resulting line should be straight. When using this option, you need to start plastering in the direction from the walls to the center.

Materials

Before starting repairs, you need to decide how best to plaster the ceiling. You can use a standard cement-sand mortar or add lime to it. It is better to apply the plaster in a small layer. This mixture turns out to be inexpensive, despite this, it is used infrequently recently, since it can fall off or become cracked.

Instead of conventional mortar, it is better to use polymer-based plasters, since they have strong adhesion and are less likely to crack. But these compositions have a drawback - high cost. Many home craftsmen prefer modern mixtures, so as not to have to redo the work later when the applied layer falls off.

When choosing plaster for the ceiling, it doesn’t hurt to use the recommendations of experts:

1. When plastering smooth surfaces of ceilings and walls, the Knauf Rotband mixture, which has a white or gray color, has worked well. It can be applied in a layer of 5 to 50 millimeters. Polymers are added to this gypsum ceiling plaster.
2. To restore old plastered surfaces, including facades, the gray Knauf Sevener plaster-adhesive mixture is suitable. Consists of Portland cement, reinforcing fibers and polymer additives.
3. If you plan to use the compositions in rooms with normal humidity levels, you can purchase Bergauf Bau Interier or Volma-Canvas.

If you have insufficient experience in carrying out such work, when deciding which plaster to choose for the ceiling, you should pay attention to the time it takes for the mixed mixture to harden. During this period, it is necessary not only to apply the solution, but also to level it, since then it loses its elasticity.

Of the above-mentioned plaster compositions, Volma-Holst, made from gypsum with biological and mineral additives, has the longest time period for using the mixture. But not all craftsmen like to work with this plaster; they use TM Knauf materials, despite the fact that they harden in 50 - 60 minutes. True, this is quite enough, even if there is no relevant experience.

Application of primer

There is a certain technology on how to properly plaster a ceiling.
A high-quality result will not be achieved without careful application of the primer. It helps improve adhesion between the base and the solution used.

Typically, problems with plaster peeling occur because the surface has not been primed. For this reason, it is better not to skip this stage. If the plaster is applied in several layers, each of them should be treated with a primer, and only if it is completely dry.

First of all, the base is cleaned of old materials and then primed. The composition is poured into a painting tray, a roller with a long handle is taken and the composition is distributed over the ceiling surface. If there are various defects on it in the form of recesses and depressions into which the roller does not fit, they are treated in advance with a brush dipped in the primer mixture.

According to experts, the best primer for the ceiling is Betonokontakt from the Knauf company. A day after its application, it dries, after which a sticky, rough film forms on the surface. The putty adheres much better to this coating.

The main thing is to ensure that dust does not get on the primer while it dries. Otherwise, such processing will not have the desired effect.

Sealing slab joints

The main problem that arises when it is necessary to plaster a ceiling made of reinforced concrete slabs is sealing joints and rustications. The recesses in the places where the slabs join must be eliminated several days before plastering the entire ceiling surface, since the materials must set.

First, everything that is possible is removed from the docking areas. Then the recesses are cleaned of dust and sand. Then the joints are treated with a primer, it is better to use “Betonokontakt”. After its application, the likelihood of peeling off the plaster is reduced several times. As a last resort, you can use another deep penetration impregnation, but the result will not be the same.

When the impregnation dries after a day, begin laying the solution. If it is necessary to obtain a putty thickness of more than 30 - 35 millimeters, it is advisable to apply the mixture in two layers. After laying the first of them, you need to form a relief using a notched trowel. After the solution has dried, which takes about 24 hours, a second layer is laid, which is leveled with the ceiling.

If you have to apply thick layer plasters, slab joints are best reinforced with painting mesh. It will prevent the appearance of cracks in the event of seasonal movements of the slabs. The mesh is not nailed to the ceiling, but attached to the composition. In this case, when the first layer of plaster is applied, a polymer mesh is laid, passed over it with a spatula, deepening it into the mixture and at the same time forming a relief for the next portion of the solution.

It happens that the crack in the seam is too deep and it is impossible to eliminate it in this way. Then it is treated with “Betonokontakt”.

1. Sealing with polyurethane foam. Its amount should be about 1/3 of the volume of the gap, the walls of which are moistened with water to polymerize the foam. A day later, a primer is applied and plastered in two to three layers.
2. The rags are moistened with Betonokontak and hammered into the gap. Leave for 24 hours and plaster over.

To seal the joints of slabs on the ceiling surface, use a composition with polymer additives or high-quality tile adhesive.

Features of applying plaster on beacons

If you have the skills to prepare the surface of the walls, then the job will be easier to cope with. The fact is that plastering walls and ceilings has a lot in common, although there are still differences. The most difficult thing about this is the need to keep your arms raised up. They get tired quickly, as does the neck, because you have to throw your head back.

Preparatory stage

Before plastering the ceiling with your own hands, its surface is cleaned of old materials down to the concrete base. Then remove dust using construction vacuum cleaner. If there is no such device, then use a large brush to remove sand and debris.

If the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs and there are large rusts in it, they need to be repaired. When the solution has dried on them, a primer is applied to the clean base. After a day you can continue working.

Beacon installation process

The first thing they do when plastering the ceiling on beacons is to install them. But first, the minimum and maximum height difference is determined using a special laser device - a level. The plane builder is placed under the ceiling and switched to horizontal scanning.

Then the distance from the ceiling surface to the luminous beam is measured at several points. As a result, the maximum and minimum deviation values ​​are determined. The plaster is laid in a layer whose thickness exceeds the largest deviation.

The same operation can be performed using a water level, but it will be much more difficult:

• first, at an arbitrary distance from the floor, a horizontal line is drawn on the walls around the perimeter of the room;
• one end of the level is fixed at this mark;
• with the second, they walk around the room to measure the distance between the water column in the level and the ceiling, thus determining the minimum and maximum points.

After the layer size is determined, beacons are selected - perforated
galvanized slats with protruding backs. They will become the supports for leveling the solution. The height of such a backrest can be 6 and 10 millimeters. You need to choose products that have given value exceeds the maximum deviation.

The beacons are set in increments slightly smaller than the length of the rule - a tool for leveling and cutting the mortar. When its length is 1.5 meters, then the planks are placed at intervals of 1.1 - 1.3 meters. First, they retreat 20–30 centimeters from the walls and install the outer beacons. The remaining distance is divided so that the interval between the slats is within the specified parameter.

For fastening beacons they use gypsum mortar, kneading it thickly. Small handfuls of this mixture are applied along the plank placement line. Beacons are pressed into them, placing their backs in the desired plane. If there is a level, the beam from it should slide along them.

When the work is done using a water level, the line of the ceiling surface is transferred to the walls and several laces are pulled so that they are directed along the beacons. According to this marking, the backs are set. After installing all the beacons, the plane is checked using a rule with a bubble level installed on it.

After a few hours, when the plaster has set, they begin the final stage of work, having previously decided how to plaster the concrete ceiling.

Applying plaster

For further work, you need stable construction sawhorses, and the tools you need are a spatula and a platform with a handle (falcon). Selected plaster composition diluted according to instructions. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, without lumps.

The putty is spread on the falcon and placed on the ceiling in small portions using a spatula. The solution is used to fill the distance between the beacons. First, the width of the strip is made from 50 to 60 centimeters, and there is no need to achieve a uniform surface.

Then they take the rule, rest it on the beacons and move it towards themselves, swinging it from one side to the other. As a result, a little solution remains on it. It is removed with a spatula and applied to the ceiling - to its unfilled part or where there are holes. Then the rule is moved again.

These steps are repeated until the surface area becomes level. Then they fill in the second lane and so on. The ceiling is allowed to dry for 5 – 8 hours. When the solution has set, but has not yet completely dried, you need to remove the beacons, otherwise they will rust and rusty stains may appear on the surface.

The rustics after the planks are filled with mortar and leveled with a wide spatula to the same level as the ceiling plane. It takes about 5 – 7 days for the plaster to dry completely.

Plastering the ceiling is an important stage in repairing the ceiling surface. Regardless of which design method is chosen (painting, wallpapering, whitewashing), you will first have to level the ceiling. For this purpose, purchased or self-prepared formulations are used.

How to plaster ceilings: with or without beacons

Plaster is usually not needed for plasterboard construction, slatted, suspended or suspended ceilings. Before starting work, remove the old finish, then prime the floor. But, if the ceiling is going to be painted, then the base base must be perfectly flat, since the paint will make defects on the surface even more noticeable.

Ceilings can be plastered using one of two technologies: with or without beacons. It is better to work with beacons to get a flat plane. But sometimes there are ceilings on which there are significant differences in height. On such surfaces, too thick a layer of the composition will fall off.

For such cases, professional craftsmen recommend installing plasterboard structures and then cover them with plaster. Drywall will level the ceiling, while final finishing you will have to spend less time. However suspension system will reduce the height of the room. In this case, it is better to plaster the ceiling without beacons.

The main objective of the technology is to make the ceiling smooth in certain areas. Then the height differences will not be very noticeable, and the surface will look even. In this case, all work starts from the center of the room.

How to properly plaster ceilings: choosing a mixture

The procedure for preparing and applying the solution depends on which plaster for the ceiling is chosen. Each package is supplied with instructions indicating the exact proportions for diluting the mixture.

Suitable for plastering concrete ceilings. The advantages of such compositions are strength and long service life. In addition to performing the main function of leveling the plane, cement plaster — universal material, which is used for interior and exterior work.

Buyers are wary of the myth that cement-based mixtures crack after drying. In fact, this is a misconception. Cracks on the surface appear as a result of violations of the technology of work and preparation of plaster:

• if the proportions of the components are not met. Cement is a material that is sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity. As the cement dries, it shrinks. To prevent this from happening, fine sand is added to modern compositions. Fillers make the plaster dense, so as the mixture hardens, the stress on the plaster layer becomes less;
• forced drying will negatively affect the plastered surface. Do not use a hair dryer, fan or other equipment to speed up drying. This will cause the outside layer of plaster to become crusty, but the inside will remain damp.

Used for plastering ceilings made of wood or plasterboard. The result is a smooth and even surface.

Such compositions have the following advantages:

• dry quickly compared to cement analogues. It takes 3-4 hours for the layer to dry completely;
• adheres well to the ceiling surface;
• absorb excess moisture and do not release it back;
• Gypsum mixtures include quartz, perlite or lime sand. These additives give the composition beneficial properties, improve the quality of work.

Since the material dries quickly, you also need to work with gypsum plaster quickly, and dilute the amount of mixture that can be worked out in one go.

Used for plastering clay ceilings and concrete floors. The advantages include:

• the solution can be prepared independently from natural clay, which will reduce the cost of finishing;
• the material is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• The property of clay to quickly recover allows you to repair a damaged section of the ceiling without replacing the entire coating.

Modern purchased formulations

According to professional craftsmen, high quality differ the following types plaster:

• Knauf Rotband based on gypsum is used for finishing smooth ceiling and wall surfaces;
• Knauf Sevener - cement plaster with polymer additives is used to restore old plastered surfaces. Suitable for exterior decoration;
• Bergauf Bau Interuer on a cement base with perlite fillers is used for finishing rooms with normal humidity levels;
• Volma-Holst – gypsum mixture For interior decoration rooms with normal humidity.

If you have not previously had experience working with plaster, when choosing a composition, take into account the time for complete hardening of the diluted mixture. During this period it is necessary to completely develop the solution. From listed types Volma freezes longer, Knauf freezes faster than the others.

Any coating that is applied to a floor slab is a multilayer composition. In this case, each layer must be made with high quality. Otherwise, the result of all the work will suffer.

The putty mixture will adhere better to the concrete floor if the ceiling is treated with a primer before applying the composition. Painting will also be faster and easier if you prime plaster ceilings. This will not only improve the adhesion of the two materials, but also the paint will lie smoother.

Another plus for the primer mixture is that it provides strength. decorative covering. Especially if the materials are prone to cracking and shedding.

There is also a primer that prevents the appearance and development of mold on the ceiling surface. The bactericidal components included in this primer make the ceiling safe for humans.

Conventionally, primer compositions are divided into three types:

• deep penetration, penetrating deep into the material being processed. For example, "Ceresit";
• strengthening. The adhesive components included in the primer prevent cracking and shedding of surfaces. The disadvantage of this type is that the composition is not recommended for use on hard and dense surfaces, since after drying it forms polymer film, which peels off and falls away along with finishing material. But for loose ceilings this type fits better the rest;
• general purpose, improving the adhesion of decorative layers of materials with the base. Such compositions are used when preparing the ceiling surface for painting.

How to plaster a ceiling: sealing rusts

To seal seams, it is better to use gypsum-based plaster, which sets quickly, is plastic, and pliable in work. Dilute the dry mixture to a homogeneous consistency, break up any lumps. Remove the old finish from the ceiling, embroider the rustics using construction tools(chisels, drill or hammer drill), remove dust and excess debris from the recesses, clean the joints wire brush. Prime the rustication with a deep penetration compound and proceed to sealing:

• Fill too deep rusts with polyurethane foam, wait until it dries, remove excess parts with a knife;
• Apply a small amount of plaster to the ceiling using a small spatula. The strokes should be gentle with light pressure so that the solution fills the space between the floor slabs;
• Remove excess mortar with a spatula in the direction along the rustication. If you work across, indentations are formed, which will become more pronounced after the mixture hardens;
• simultaneously correct other surface defects;
• After the solution has set, reinforce the joints with sickle mesh. The junction of adjacent slabs should be in the middle of the tape;
• coat the mesh with a layer of solution 3-5 mm thick.

If the work is done correctly, the result will be a flat and smooth ceiling with no seams between the floor slabs.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands will be easy and quick if you properly prepare the ceiling for work.

Surface preparation

Before application plaster mixture, the ceiling surface is first primed. For concrete floors, one coat of primer is sufficient. The composition will remove dust from the ceiling and create an adhesive layer for the plaster layer. If there are joints between the floor slabs, first work with them, only then proceed to leveling the ceiling plane.

If work will be carried out on painted or whitewashed ceilings, the old finish is washed away with a soap solution and removed with a spatula. After this, prime with two layers of primer. The drying time for each layer is 1-1.5 hours. The composition must dry well before plastering the ceiling.

When the surface is primed, evaluate the unevenness on the ceiling using a tape measure, applying the measuring device to all areas in turn to find the most low point. Beacons will be displayed from it on plaster or alabaster.

Lighthouses are perforated strips with a protruding back. It serves as the basis for leveling the plaster mixture. Before you start plastering the ceiling with your own hands, install beacons:

• First, markings are applied to the ceiling. The first beacon is installed 30 cm from the wall, the next ones - in increments of 120-130 cm;
• As each beacon is placed, accuracy is immediately checked using a building level. The resulting indicator is transferred to opposite walls;
• Screws are screwed into the walls and a nylon thread is pulled, along which the alignment is done;
• When the beacons are placed, they wait for the solution to completely harden and begin to plaster the ceiling.

To get a smooth surface, use a spatula and a falcon. Using a second tool, the mixture is thrown onto the ceiling. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• dry plaster is diluted with water so that the consistency of the composition resembles thick sour cream;
• Apply the prepared solution to the ceiling by throwing or dabbing. Choose the option that is easier and more convenient to work with;
• It is better to apply the composition in strips of 50-60 cm, gradually filling the space between adjacent beacons;
• Then the rule is established on the beacons, the mixture is leveled with a tool. To ensure that the plaster adheres more closely to the ceiling, the rule is to slightly rock it;
• the solution that remains on the instrument is removed with a spatula;
• check the area for evenness. If there are defects and depressions, add the mixture;
• leave the surface to dry for 5-8 hours.

If ceilings are plastered wooden house, a special metal mesh with cell sizes of 10x10 cm or stuff two-layer shingles, deepening the nail heads into wooden slats. This is necessary to prevent the mixture from cracking after hardening. The plaster is applied in two layers, each carefully leveled with a spatula and dried.

The rusts formed after removing the beacons are filled with the same composition that was used for plastering. The rule for work is no longer needed; level the ceiling with a wide spatula. All that remains is to wait for the surface to dry completely. This will take 5-7 days.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is a simple process, but it requires care and quality materials. At the same time, not a single stage of work should be left without attention. Only then will the plastered ceilings be even and smooth, ready for further finishing.

Video on the topic

How to repair a ceiling? This question is often asked by owners of houses and apartments who plan to renovate their premises on their own. There are a lot of finishing methods, so choose suitable option difficult. The ceiling finishing problem can be solved by installing suspended structure or installation stretch ceiling. If you do not want the ceiling height to become smaller, it is best to give preference to traditional technologies.

Of course, plastering work today is not chosen as often as it was before, and there are several reasons for this.

1. Finishing the ceiling is a rather complex process. A person who has no experience in construction industry and has not been trained and is unable to perform quality work. But to carry out the installation plasterboard ceiling maybe even a novice builder, although the quality of the installation remains in doubt.
2. Plastering the ceiling is one of the jobs that can be called dirty. Craftsmen use liquid solutions when finishing. When applied to a surface, splashes can stain clothing, hands and face. The solution often ends up on the floor and walls.
3. Some houses have very uneven ceilings. If the height difference is large, then be prepared to spend a lot on leveling materials.
4. You can do all the work on your own, but if you don’t have the skills, you can’t do without the help of specialists.

What to pay attention to

Plastering a ceiling is a renovation process consisting of a number of stages. If you do not want to be disappointed as a result of plastering work, then you must take into account all the nuances. Preparation is very important, and the plastering process itself must be carried out in strict accordance with technology.

Start by carefully inspecting the ceiling. You must choose the optimal repair method, taking into account the recommendations of specialists. Please pay attention to the following points.

1. If the ceiling is uneven, the height differences at different points are more than 5 mm, then it is better to choose putty rather than plaster. The fact is that plastering such a surface will require large financial costs.
2. With more significant difference heights, for example, when the difference between two points reaches 5 cm, you should not choose plastering. The easiest way is to opt for a tension structure or install a suspended ceiling.

If you examine the ceilings in rooms, most often a small difference is recorded. It makes sense to use plaster if it is from 2 to 5 cm. Remember that plastering is a rather complex process. As the layer thickness increases, you will have to spend more time and effort on the work.

How to prepare a ceiling for plastering

The easiest way to make repairs is if you bought a room in a newly built house. Plaster reinforced concrete slab in the new building you will be able to short period time. But most often situations arise when it is necessary to repair the ceiling after numerous paintings.

Plaster prices

plaster

The work is complicated by the fact that in most cases you have to deal with mold and large differences. In addition, to form a smooth ceiling, it is necessary to remove deep cracks that can often be observed between the slabs. It is impossible to make the ceiling level if you see that the old plaster has chipped or is crumbling. All of the above shortcomings need to be eliminated; only after that does it make sense to begin repair work.

Table. Removing old plaster.

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	First you need to wet the ceiling well with water. Once done, wait 2 or 3 hours and then wet again. This method is very effective. Firstly, you will remove dust from the surface and it will be comfortable to work with. Secondly, the old plaster will soften well.
	Take a hard spatula and use it to remove the old plaster, carefully scraping it off the surface. Remove the plaster until the concrete floor appears. If the plaster does not come off easily, use a hammer drill. Special attention pay attention to the seams between the plates.
	Rinse the ceiling thoroughly. This can be done with a sponge, which must first be moistened in water. This will effectively remove dust remaining from lime or cement.
	Allow time for the ceiling to dry. Buy an antiseptic solution and apply it to the surface - this will remove the fungus and prevent the appearance of mold. The antiseptic should be poured into a separate container. To apply it to the surface, buy a foam roller. When renovating, many property owners apply antiseptic only to the affected areas. But experts recommend treating the entire ceiling with an antiseptic solution. The cost of purchasing an antiseptic is minimal, and the effect of its use is long-lasting. It is best to use an antiseptic primer.
	After applying the antiseptic solution, wait until the ceiling is completely dry. After this, apply primer. Choose one that penetrates deep into the pores. This material has excellent adhesion, significantly strengthening the surface.

How to choose the right materials

Modern plastering methods have nothing in common with the old ones used previously. Back then, builders preferred mixtures of sand and lime. It was difficult to work with such solutions; labor costs were very high. Only experienced craftsmen could plaster the ceiling with high quality.

Nowadays everything has changed. Manufacturers offer gypsum solutions that have significant advantages.

1. Such plaster solutions rarely form cracks and are not afraid of shrinkage of the building.
2. It doesn't matter what surface you are going to apply the plaster on. Adhesion is strong, this is very important if a beginner is doing plastering.
3. The material is environmentally friendly and has no impact on health. You can safely use gypsum solutions when repairing the ceiling in a children's room.

Primer and gypsum plaster for interior work"Knauf Rotband"

You can buy the solution in a specialized store, the prices for the products are affordable. All mixtures are supplied to the market in ready-made form; you just need to add water, maintaining the proportion.

Prices for Knauf Rotband plaster

plaster "Knauf Rotband"

Table. Composition of various plastering solutions.

How to install beacons

To ensure that the surface is perfectly smooth, install special beacons. With their help you can easily determine horizontality. It is the installation of profiles that guarantees that the ceiling will be without changes and the quality of the surface will be high. Today you will find perforated metal profiles on sale.

The installation of beacons is carried out in stages.

First, determine where in the room the ceiling is lowest. Measure the height carefully to find out the distance from the floor to the ceiling. Determine the lowest angle - this is the place that will become Starting point. Install a laser level and use it to determine the horizontal line.

After this, install the profiles; they need to be placed on the ceiling near the walls, mounted on opposite sides. Use gypsum plaster to secure the profiles in place. It is best applied with slaps. Wait a little, and then pull the thread between the two profiles. Make several rows - this way you will get a new plane.

The next step consists of installing intermediate beacons. They need to be mounted with a certain pitch (from 20 cm to 180 cm). Many people are interested in why it is necessary to set aside no more than 180 cm? The fact is that the largest rule comes in a length of 2 meters. The remaining 20 cm can be considered a reserve. This way you can easily cover the distance between two lighthouses located next door.

How to apply the solution to the surface

Buy ready mixture. Add water to it, following the manufacturer's instructions. Please note that it is the mixture that is added to the water, and not vice versa. It is recommended to use a special construction mixer to stir the mixture. If you don't have it, you can take it a regular drill, but in this case you will need a mixer attachment.

The plastering solution should be applied to the space between the beacons. The easiest way to work is with a spatula; choose a product of medium length. Repeat the procedure as many times as necessary until the surface is completely filled. It is recommended to ensure that there is a slight excess of leveling material. It is very good when it protrudes a little beyond the beacons. Subsequently, you can remove the excess using the rule. To do this, move it in a zigzag manner, moving it towards you.

You should not make a layer thicker than 2 cm. If the height difference is more pronounced, then it is best to apply the mixture in 2 layers. After you apply the first coat, wait. The plaster must be completely dry. Only after this can you begin to re-apply the solution.

If you want to increase the strength of the plaster and ensure that it does not peel off, then you need to put a mesh between the layers. It is placed after applying the first layer of solution, without waiting for it to dry.

When laying synthetic mesh, pay attention to the junction of two strips. Place the material so that an overlap of 10 cm wide is formed.

Then, when the solution dries, remove the beacons, and fill the voids remaining in their place with the same solution.

Leveling the surface

After the gypsum solution has dried, you can begin the final stage. It consists of carefully polishing the ceiling, without which the surface will not be perfectly flat. After this, you need to apply another type of plaster, which is called finishing.

This material is consumed minimally, because the mixture must be applied very thin layer. To level the surface, use sandpaper. Buy sheets with a fine fraction; the grinding process will not require much effort. Cover the finished ceiling with primer.

Prices for finishing plaster

finishing plaster

What to pay attention to

Many craftsmen suggest using Venetian plaster. But the mixture should not be used for finishing surfaces in the toilet and bathroom. The fact is that if even a small amount of water gets in, such plaster will be damaged. The coating will have to be completely redone.

Prices for Venetian plaster

Venetian plaster

Video - How to plaster a ceiling correctly