Where to get graphite from. Where to get graphite at home

Of course, the battery is easy to buy at any hardware store, electronics store or hypermarket. However, for the sake of interesting experiments and gaining knowledge from the “school of life”, it’s still worth knowing how to make a battery with your own hands. Moreover, the process of such work is very entertaining and uncomplicated.

Lemon battery: two options

For the first option you will need:

lemon itself;
galvanized nail;
2 small pieces of copper wire;
copper coin;
small light bulb.

The working process is as follows:

Make two cuts on the fruit at some distance from each other.
Place a nail in one cut and a coin in the other.
Connect a piece of wire to both the nail and the coin. The second ends of this improvised wiring should be in contact with the contacts of the light bulb.
And that's it - let there be light!

You can also make a homemade battery from sour fruit using:

the same lemon;
paper clip;
light bulbs;
2 pieces of insulated copper wire with a diameter of 0.2-0.5 mm and a length of 10 cm.

The algorithm is as follows:

Strip 2-3 cm of insulation from the ends of each wire.
Attach the exposed part of one wire to a paperclip.
Make two cuts in the lemon, 2-3 cm apart - along the width of the paperclip and for the second wiring. Insert these elements into the fruit.
Attach the free ends of the wire to the contact part of the light bulb. If it does not light up, it means that the selected lemon is not powerful enough - connect several fruits in series and repeat the experiment.

Potato battery

Stock up:

two potatoes;
three wires with clamps;
two chrome nails;
two copper nails.

So, how to make a battery from tubers:

Give symbol each of the potatoes - "A" and "B".
Insert a chrome nail into the edges of each tuber.
On the opposite side is a copper nail. The nails should not intersect in the body of the potatoes.
Take any battery-powered device, remove it, and leave the compartment open.
The first wire should connect the copper pin of the tuber "A" to the positive terminal in the battery compartment.
The second wire connects the chrome pin of potato "B" to the negative terminal.
The last wire connects the chrome nail of tuber "A" to the copper nail of tuber "B".
As soon as you close all the wires in this way, the potato will begin to supply energy to the device.

Potatoes in this experiment can be replaced with banana, avocado or any of the citrus fruits.

Battery made of foil, cardboard and coins

Before making a battery, prepare:

copper coins;
vinegar;
salt;
cardboard;
foil;
scotch;
two pieces of insulated copper wire.

All is ready? To the point:

First you need to thoroughly clean the coins - to do this, pour vinegar into a glass container, add salt there and add money.
As soon as the surfaces of the coins have transformed and shone, remove them from the container, take one and trace its outline on the cardboard 8-10 times.
Cut out cardboard rounds along the outline. Then place them in a container with vinegar for a while.
Fold the foil several times so that you end up with 8-10 layers. Trace a coin on it and also cut out round parts along the contour.
At this point, start assembling the battery. This is done like this: a copper coin, cardboard, foil. In this order, put all the components you have in a column. The final layer should only be a coin.
Remove the insulation from the ends of the wires.
Cut a small strip of tape, glue one end of the wire onto it, place an improvised battery on top, and place the end of the second wire on it. Securely secure the structure with adhesive tape.
Connect the second ends of the wire to the “+” and “-” of the device that needs to be saturated with energy.

Eternal battery

Prepare:

glass jar;
a silver element - for example a spoon;
cling film;
copper wire;
1 teaspoon baking soda;
4 bottles of glycerin;
1 teaspoon 6% apple cider vinegar.

Wrap the spoon tightly in cling film, leaving the top and bottom ends slightly exposed.
Now it's time to wrap the spoon over the film with copper wire. Remember to leave long ends at the beginning and end for contacts. Make space between the turns.
And again a layer of film, followed by wire using the same method. There should be at least seven layers of “film-wire” on this improvised reel. Do not tighten the layers too much - the film should roll freely.
IN glass jar Prepare a solution of glycerin, salt and vinegar.
After the salt has dissolved, the coil can be immersed in the solution. As soon as the liquid becomes cloudy, the “eternal” battery will be ready for use. Its service life directly depends on the silver content in the base element of the coil.

Graphite rod: application

The graphite component from old batteries is not only the basis for a new energy source, but also an element that can be used for electric welding. This is done according to a simple scheme:

Sharpen a graphite rod from an old battery at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
Using an alligator clip with a non-conductive handle, connect it to the + and - of the AC or DC power source.
Connect “0” and “-” to the stripped part.
As the electrode burns out, it must be sharpened periodically.

How to make a battery at home? You will need available materials, a little enthusiasm and perseverance. In exchange you will receive alternative sources energy.

kar 09-12-2010 17:11

Where can I get a graphite rod 15 centimeters, round or square, 15-20 mm in diameter?

madmax 09-12-2010 19:23

break an old radio

Ivan_Medvedev 09-12-2010 19:57

A very old lamp with batteries?

5 years ago (how time flies) there was a ton of graphite from graphite refrigerators. Now neither that office nor that graphite...

DiXXX 09-12-2010 22:37

There is definitely one on the AC.

Ivan_Medvedev 09-12-2010 22:48

In the summer, I would also recommend finding a discarded battery from a navigation sign (buoy, milestone, etc.).

didSemen 09-12-2010 23:14

quote: break an old radio

I think this is a little different. The active resistance is much higher than that of graphite (if we mean the core of the ferromagnetic receiver antenna, which looks very similar). Typically, we used graphite rods of this geometry for soldering copper of a fairly large cross-section...

DiXXX 09-12-2010 23:37

quote: Originally posted by Ivan_Medvedev:

In the summer, I would also recommend finding a discarded battery from a navigation sign (buoy, milestone, etc.).
There the anodes are just a graphite rod diam. 15 mm, 15-18 cm long.

That's it, navigation 2011 is cancelled.
I have powdered graphite, about half a kilo. I just don’t know how to compress it into a rod.

Ivan_Medvedev 09-12-2010 23:45

A discarded (!!!) battery.
How to spoil an existing aid to navigation? Even the words (censored) are not selected...
This is bad - that's it!

Rods, plates, etc. It is made either by machining a piece of graphite or by sintering the powder with clay. In general, this technology is not for the kitchen.

kar, if it’s not a secret, why do you need a rod?
Maybe we can conjure up a replacement together...

kar 10-12-2010 08:46

Ivan_Medvedev: it’s no secret, for many years I have had a device for producing live and dead water, the central graphite electrode fell apart.

DShooter 10-12-2010 09:05

quote: device for producing living and dead water

What do you do with the dead? For the mother-in-law?

Ace_Odinn 10-12-2010 09:15

I know such rods. I even posted it here on the forum.
You can look in my photos =)

kar 10-12-2010 11:01

dead for disinfection, gargle for sore throat, rinse nose for runny nose. Can't check on my mother-in-law anymore

G333G333 10-12-2010 17:19

quote: Originally posted by kar:

dead for disinfection, gargle for sore throat, rinse nose for runny nose.

kar
I think the topic is interesting to many (living and dead water) I also heard something...
I wish I could share it with the people, in case it helps someone in life.
If it `s not a secret..)

------------------
Everything will be fine... !)

vasbond 10-12-2010 18:07

quote: Originally posted by Ace_Odinn:

There are abandoned electrodes from sea searchlights in Fort Gray Horse.
It has a similar diameter and is about a meter long.
The entire room was littered with these graphite rods.

Yes. Last time It was summer - they were lying around...
It's here 59.990812,29.220284.

ober 10-12-2010 20:01

I made such a device from two stainless steel rulers

kar 10-12-2010 22:50

quote: I made such a device from two stainless steel rulers

Yes, you can do it in different ways, but I have a ready-made device, bought back in Soviet time, I want to restore it.
As for water, type “living and dead water” in a search engine. There’s a lot of it out there, take a look and form your own opinion. And finished devices are sold

Hi all! Today we will talk about graphite. If you were assembling a serious metal detector, then you probably had to shield the coil (sensor). This can be done in two ways: wrap the coil with foil or. Covering with foil is not very good good way, so many people coat the sensor with graphite. But if you somehow in an unusual way, there is no way to buy graphite, what will you do? For example, you spent all your money on radio components and assembling the electronic unit of a metal detector, but there is no money for graphite. Don't give up! You can get graphite from regular batteries. C and D format batteries will have more graphite.

You might be thinking, “If I don’t have money, where will I get batteries?” Friends, it's very simple. You've probably noticed that in large stores, shopping centers or at the market, they put boxes for collecting unusable batteries and accumulators. That's where you can get these batteries for graphite mining. We have these boxes with batteries in our ATB stores, so you can find them without any problems different types batteries. I rummaged through this box and took out three D-type batteries.

If you have found such batteries, congratulations, you can start “mining” graphite. All we need is: pliers, a screwdriver, an awl. Before disassembling the battery, I advise you to lay a newspaper or some sheet of paper on the table.

The first thing to do is remove the label. It is simply glued to the battery, so there will be no problems with it.

Since on the other hand the battery is not collapsible, on that side it will be inconvenient for us to disassemble the battery. When we have decided which side we will disassemble the battery from, take a screwdriver and bend the curved edges with it.

When the edges are folded back, the battery will look something like this:

Now take an awl and remove the battery contact pad. My battery had two small holes (probably for the release of evaporated gas), so it was not difficult for me to do this.

When the contact is removed, the battery will look something like this:

We can see the end of the graphite rod, and the plastic plug.

We remove this plastic plug with an awl.

After removing this plug, our next task is to remove this black powder (a mixture of manganese oxide 4 and carbon). You can carefully try to pull out the graphite rod with pliers, but I couldn’t do this because the powder got in the way. Use an awl to loosen the powder and shake it into a bag. After which, you can get the graphite rod without any problems.

What do carburizing steel, lubricating locks, and fingerprinting have in common?
You will find the answer under the cut, although the spoiler is this small bottle.

One day I came across a video about how you can significantly strengthen steel at home. The author of the video gutted ordinary AA batteries, took out the graphite rods from them and sawed them with a file. The resulting powder is suitable for carburizing steel. Simply put, this is the saturation of steel with carbon atoms. They are embedded in the crystal lattice of iron and enhance the energy of its interatomic bonds. All you need to do for this process is to dip the part in graphite and heat it up high. There, in the video, a nail flattened and processed in this way was used as a metal drill. A nail is like a drill for metal. For metal, Karl! Of course, I was very impressed, but then it didn’t come to the point of cutting up the batteries.

Now you no longer need to hoard dead batteries, tear them apart with wire cutters, fiddle with sticky reagents, take out graphite and saw it with your blackened fingers on a file. The professionals did everything for us.

Here it is, a bottle of graphite dust:

Deploying the package:

Opening the lid:

The bottle is polyethylene, sealed. The lid has a spout, by cutting off the tip of which you can get a convenient “oil can.” We must not forget that the main purpose of graphite powder is to lubricate rubbing mechanisms.

The thing is that oil is not very suitable for lubricating locks. Dirt quickly sticks to parts soaked in oil and soon the lubricant begins to act as an abrasive. This is especially true for locks with through keyholes. Dust is driven into such drafts, no worse than a cooler into a system unit.

So here's the graphite:

We look through the microscope. The ruler division price is 0.5 mm.

But we blow it into the castle:

Works smoothly and reliably.

Now let's try metal cementation. To do this, I made an improvised tray from a steel gypsum profile:

I used as a current source welding machine. The guinea pig was a bit from a screwdriver. The cheapest, made of “plasticine” steel. Before starting, I made a notch on it with a needle file. It cuts at about the same level as a pencil, but maybe a little worse.

Then the cementation process began:

And this went on for about 5 minutes. When the bit cooled down, I cleaned off the stuck graphite and saw that the part was a little “well done”, i.e. melted. Well, never mind, let’s try it with a file:

Here are two serifs. It is sawn, it is also sawn, but it seems a little more difficult. Closer to a drop of frozen metal - it doesn’t cut at all.
The conclusion from the experiment is ambiguous. Not everything is as rosy as in the original video. You need to practice your skills, experiment, select the cementation time, currents and required temperature. Maybe combine it with hardening. Then there will be an effect.

Finally, there is a third use for graphite powder.

Let's play detective!

We will need graphite powder, a soft brush, transparent tape, a sheet of paper and an object that was in the hands of the criminal. In our case, this is a glass. The freshly washed and dried glass was handled with clean, dry hands.

Apply a little graphite to the brush and lightly cover the sides of the glass.

I did this for the first time in my life, and for the first time, I think it turned out pretty good. There was a thumb here.

And here is the index and middle.

Now we put transparent tape on the prints, trying to avoid bubbles and wrinkles. Then we tear it off and carefully paste it onto the paper.

That's it, now the fingers won't go anywhere.

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Hi all! Today we will talk about graphite. If you were assembling a serious metal detector, then you probably had to shield the coil (sensor). This can be done in two ways: wrap the coil with foil or. Covering with foil is not a very good way, so many people cover the sensor with graphite. But if, in some unusual way, you are unable to buy graphite, what will you do? For example, you spent all your money on radio components and assembling the electronic unit of a metal detector, but there is no money for graphite. Don't give up! You can get graphite from regular batteries. C and D format batteries will have more graphite.

You might be thinking, “If I don’t have money, where will I get batteries?” Friends, it's very simple. You've probably noticed that in large stores, shopping centers or markets, they put boxes for collecting unusable batteries and accumulators. That's where you can get these batteries for graphite mining. We have these boxes with batteries in our ATB stores, so you can easily find different types of batteries. I rummaged through this box and took out three D-type batteries.