Making a bed with your own hands drawings. It's simple - Homemade bed: materials, designs, drawings, solutions, nuances

Updated:

2016-09-07

You can assemble a bed with your own hands quite quickly if you have at least some skills in handling wood. Nowadays, one frame per bed is not cheap, but you also need to choose a mattress. Therefore, for craftsmen who have a little savings, instructions on how to make a bed for the bedroom with your own hands may be useful. All materials and parts that will be needed during the work will be described below.

In such a matter, it is worth correctly distributing the resources that are available. It’s better if you make your own bed out of wood. This is the most environmentally friendly and affordable material that can be bought almost everywhere. But first you should create a drawing of the frame.

The bed must have certain dimensions. Besides, finished design must have sufficient rigidity and withstand a certain mass of a person. Therefore, before you make a bed with your own hands, you will need to make several calculations of the required strength.

The bed can be made with a limited amount of materials without the necessary calculations. But then it will be a waste of materials, since the structure will quickly become unusable.
In home craftsmen's directories you can find sections where there are examples of how you can assemble a bed with your own hands, drawings and necessary photos for assembly. If there are no reference books and literature available, then everything will have to be done using the old “old-fashioned method” - by eye without a diagram. You can also use training videos that show the step-by-step assembly of various structures.

To assemble a good bed with your own hands, you should choose strong and high-quality lumber. You need strong boards, you can even use strong MDF blanks for the side panels. All of them must be free from rot and other defects. A reliable bed for your bedroom can only be achieved by using quality materials.

Nuances when creating a design

A frame with slatted jumpers is the most popular model for making a bed with your own hands. This will require 2 wooden shield preferred form. These can be either rectangular blanks or almost finished carved parts. One of them will act as a headboard, the second as a support.

You can make a bed with your own hands from ready-made parts, but it will cost more. There will be long support boards on the sides. Such a box has a small height, so such a low homemade bed will not suit those who like high sleeping places.

Inside you will need to place 2 support beams on which the slatted jumpers will be fixed. Actually, on internal structure and the mattress will be located. Before you start assembling, you should resolve all issues with the mattress. If you assemble the bed into the bedroom incorrectly, the mattress may not fit. Therefore, you should focus on the dimensions of the soft element and mark the depth on the side panels so that the mattress lies correctly in the recess. Try to make your bed drawings as detailed as possible.

Step-by-step installation

In fact, you can assemble a bed with your own hands in one day, if you put in the effort. Let's start assembling the bed. Panel parts - one as a headboard, the second as a support. Both should be approximately 1500 mm long. To make your own bed attractive, all 4 supporting parts of the frame must be the same height, except for the headboard, or at least symmetrical. The preferred height of the base to be built is 500-600 mm:

the headboard and the support opposite it should be marked into 3 identical parts;
then we screw 2 beams 2000 mm long to one of the supports;
then the headboard is screwed on, and in the end we get a quadrangular box measuring 1.5 x 2 m.

The base is ready, now we proceed to arranging the interior of the structure.

It is necessary to secure 2 load-bearing strips inside the box. To do this, we find prepared marks on which we place the strips and screw them tightly using self-tapping screws. 2 blanks inside, located as in the photo, will become a support for the rest.

We nail the rest on top of 2 load-bearing planks in parallel. It is better to fit as many of them as possible so that the weight is distributed more evenly.

The bed for the bedroom is ready, all that remains is to varnish it and lay the mattress. Another assembly option is presented in the video.

Conclusion on the topic

Assembling a bed for a bedroom is quite simple if you have the opportunity to purchase everything necessary materials.

Using a minimum of tools, you can assemble not only a reliable, but also quite attractive in appearance and comfortable frame.

If you pick correct color and embellish the design details a little, you can get a suitable sleeping place. Factory made sleeping beds are quite expensive, but are often made from available materials, so we can say with confidence that homemade design no worse.

Bed- This is an integral element of any home, just as sleep is one of the main processes in human life. During sleep, the body gets the opportunity to rest and restore energy. Therefore, to ensure normal human life, he needs a comfortable healthy sleep. And these factors directly depend on the quality of the bed.

Types of beds

Depending on the size parameters, the following types are distinguished:

200 x 80 (100) cm.
One and a half truck– 200 x 120 (140) cm.
Double– 200 x 160 (180) cm.
Swedish– 200 x 200 cm.

Advice! To choose the size that suits your personal parameters, you need to lie on the bed and fold your arms across your chest so that one palm touches the other with your fingertips. In this case, the distance from the elbow to the edge of the mattress should be at least ten centimeters in each direction.

Equally important is the height of the bed. According to this indicator, three types are distinguished:

Low – 30-20 cm.
Average – 40-60 cm.
High – 70-90 cm.

This parameter must correspond to your height, as well as physiological characteristics. This will make the lifting process easier. As a rule, the most common are mid-height beds. When choosing the height for yourself, you need to take into account the size of the base and the mattress installed on it. When sitting on the bed, a person should have their feet firmly planted on the floor, with their knees bent at 90°.

Attention! People with joint problems should not buy models that are too low.

Structure

Regardless of models, size and height, all beds consist of a base and. In turn, the base is a strong, stable structure consisting of:

frames;
supports for slatted bottom;
slats;
legs;
backrests;

In addition, the design may include other parts that increase its functionality and efficiency of use. Metal or wood is used as the material for the base. Let's look at how to make it yourself.

What will you need for work?

When choosing wood material, it is best to give preference – they have a lot of advantages. This design will last you much longer, and the likelihood of it being damaged by wood-eating insects (termites, shashel, etc.) is reduced.

In addition, the structure will be quite light, which will allow it to be moved if necessary, as well as installed on upper floors of housing without creating additional load. It is important that the boards are smooth and have as few flaws as possible. This will reduce processing time.

In the table below you will find the amount of materials for making a standard semi-truck bed.

In addition to wood, you must purchase the following materials:

screws 30, 50, 60 mm;
stain;
tassels;
sanding discs or paper;
wood putty;
wood glue.

You also need to have a number of tools available:

measuring device - tape measure;
circular saw;
drill;
adjustable measuring square;
set of wood drills;
construction pencil;
clamp;
belt sanding machine.

Base manufacturing algorithm

The first step in assembling a bed is making the frame. As already mentioned, it will require four boards. They need to be laid out in a rectangle. To fasten the parts, self-tapping screws are used, which are screwed at an angle into the drilled holes.

Advice! Very often the edges need processing. It will make them more accurate hand plane, but you can use an angle grinder (angle grinder).

Before connecting the parts, it is recommended to coat them with wood glue. After pulling the elements together, excess adhesive can be removed with a damp cloth. Next we move on to applying the coating. Best suited for this acrylic lacquer water based.

Can also be used acrylic paint. The peculiarity of these materials is that they are non-toxic, and due to the rapid evaporation of water, they dry quickly, which speeds up work.

Creating supports

Boards are inserted into the dried frame to act as a base on which the grille will subsequently be assembled and installed.
Two of them are fixed along the long sides of the base, one parallel to the previous ones in the center.
These parts are secured in the same way as described in the previous paragraph.
Initially, holes are created using special drills at a distance of 25 cm from each other.
Next, the joints are coated with glue.
The supports are inserted into the place intended for them and screwed with self-tapping screws.

Important! The distance from the top edge of the frame to the place where the base is attached should be at least 10 cm, which will allow the mattress to be installed correctly.

Making legs

A standard bed has four legs. But to create a reinforced base, it is best to increase their number to at least six. In our case, we use a parallelepiped made of timber with a base of 10 x 10 cm and a length of edges of 10.5 cm.

On a note! If desired, they can be given any shape, but there is a possibility of reduced stability.

The legs are attached to the boards that act as the base. They are installed at the junction of these elements with the frame. The joints are coated with glue, and self-tapping screws are used as fastening.

Slatted bottom

The next step is the manufacture of the slatted grille. For this, small boards of the same size are used, the length of which corresponds to the internal width of the frame. Before installing them, it is necessary to treat the surface with varnish. The first and last slats are attached flush to the wide side of the frame.

Important! Don't forget to tape the joints. The rest are installed parallel to the previous ones at a distance of 10 cm from each other.

Back

The bed may have one or more beds, or may not have them at all. The back can be rectangular, round or carved. It can be built in as part of the frame or attached separately. It is important to pay attention to the second option.

To secure the back properly, wooden choppers are used. Holes are drilled in the frame and in the frame at a distance of 10 cm, which are coated with glue, after which a wooden connector is inserted into the lower element and the upper one - the back - is put on.

Nowadays it is fashionable to make furniture yourself at home, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Some people prefer to purchase blanks and use them to assemble the necessary furniture, while others do all the work themselves from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just a matter of skill and availability of equipment - important role personal preferences and financial capabilities play a role. In this article we will tell you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please you and to be able to use it for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to select a suitable model and prepare the tool taking into account the material used.

Required Tools

Depending on the material chosen, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

Electric welding machine.
Bulgarian.
File.
Metal brush.
Electric drill.
Roulette.

For working with wood

Jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw.
Screwdriver.
Electric drill.
Roulette.
Construction corner.
Pencil.
Plane.
Chisel.
Grinder machine.

Concerning Supplies, then we’ll talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Materials for making a bed:

Metal corner.
Profile or round pipe.
Solid wood.
Plywood.

The above materials can be used either individually or in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped wooden backs, and the product is made of plywood and assembled on a frame made of timber. There can be many options, and you can understand this in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing your bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual bed placement patterns and find a new place for it. If so, then pay attention to a number of tips that will help with this.

Do not place the bed with the head of the bed facing the window opening, as if the window is open there will be a draft and your head may get blown out.
If you place the head of the bed towards the doorway, you will not be able to see the person entering the bedroom.
It is better not to have a chandelier hanging above the bed. It can break and fall on a person lying in bed.
In uninsulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to place the bed in such places.
A shelf that is precariously nailed to the wall above your head can also cause a lot of trouble.
IN narrow bedroom a bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement may cause discomfort.
Many people leave a place at the head of the room for a laptop. Note that this “time thief” will in this case deprive you of many hours of proper rest.

It may seem like there is no room left for a bed in the bedroom, but this is not the case. We have only given recommendations, and you can decide for yourself how relevant they are in your case.

Wooden bed

Don't be fooled by the apparent simplicity of the design. You need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to work a lot to make a bed from solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to immediately decide on the design of the bed, so first look at a few photos of wood products.

Photos of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take a drawing of a bed and remake it to suit themselves, removing or adding something.

From the array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If you have not purchased it yet, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on selling sites and build on this data. If you plan to make a bed non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made according to individual order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively short article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we are not striving for this. Based on the example given, you can understand how to assemble a bed from solid wood.

Let's look at an example of making a wooden bed for a 200x160 cm mattress, if you have a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and to a smaller extent. After purchasing a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the bed to fit it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, altering it to your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let’s say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than stated - 199x159 cm. The following material will be needed:

Beam 50×40 mm, length 209 cm – 19 pcs.
Planed board 22×100 mm, length 159.5 cm – 18 pcs.
PVA glue (furniture).
Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store to buy it.

Making a frame

The frame can be assembled on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200x160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three beams assembled into a single structure.

Of 19 pcs. purchased timber 40×50 mm you need to select 4 pieces. the most even and with minimum quantity knots.
For further work, you need to saw off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the timber, and then, using a construction angle, draw a cut line. If you cannot cut straight along the line with a hacksaw, then it is better to use a miter box.
You should get 2 bars of 160 cm each and 2 bars of 208 cm each (the internal size of the bed length is 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
The cleanest side of the bars will be used as the front side (top of the bed), so we will place the bars with this side down.
You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (the internal size of the bed width is 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
To make the frame strong, corner connections it is necessary to overlap, so for the second row we use bars of a different size, which we cut last.
Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and secured with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will interfere with surface grinding later.
Now the bars of the third row are attached in exactly the same way.

You need to check that the corners of the bed are assembled at an angle of 90˚. To do this, let's measure the dimensions of the assembled frame diagonally - they should be the same.
After the glue has dried, you can continue working.
Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can sag. To eliminate this, in the center of the bed, from one back to the other, from below, you need to make a stiffening rib. To make it you will need 2 bars, each 2 m long. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This is clearly visible in the photo.

The bed being manufactured has 4 legs located in the corners, but for safety reasons you can install a fifth support point in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

We will make the legs from two 40x50 mm bars, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the owner’s preference in such a way that they will be attached to the lower two bars.
Having glued and secured the legs with self-tapping screws, we wait until the glue dries, and only after that we turn the bed over to the position in which it will now be permanently located.

To make a base for a mattress along the sides of the bed frame, you need to secure the remaining 50x40 mm timber (or existing scraps), since it is to this that the boards will be attached. The reference point will be the lower edge of the upper beam of the frame.
The width of the internal part of our product is 160 cm, so in order to avoid squeaking, the board can be made 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or a little less).

Having sanded the boards, you need to lay them on the frame so that their sides do not touch the walls of the frame, and secure them.
Since the screws will be screwed into the edge of the board, you will need to drill holes for them in each board using a thin drill.
As for the distance between the boards, we find it experimentally. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We will retreat 5 mm from the edges. 199 cm left. Divide by 16 (number of boards). 199/16 = 12.44 cm. Round it up, and it turns out that you need to apply markings on the support beam every 12.4 cm. Since the width of the board is 10 cm, the gap between them will be 2.4 cm, which completely suits us.

If you need to get a larger distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and again perform the calculations according to the scheme we have given.
Now we need to sand the entire structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed outside the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with an attachment on which the sandpaper is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process manually using fine-grained sandpaper.

The bed must be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The work is best done using a spray gun. As a last resort, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that appearance The applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You may have noticed that we still have 3 boards left. We will make a backrest out of them, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm and the width is 170 cm, but this is not important, since it will not be integral with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the same level as the mattress.

Making it is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off to 170 cm each. From the scraps we make 11 boards of 45 cm each. If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then 2 boards of 40-42 cm each can be screwed through one board. Just like the bed, the backrest needs to be given a presentable look , varnishing it.

The backrest can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock on the wall. More practical is to firmly fix the backrest to the wall. Now wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step-by-step instructions

Making structures from chipboard may seem very difficult due to the characteristics of this material. If you cut, sand and glue the edges at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with cutting laminated chipboard, since the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided if you make a drawing in advance and order the production of parts in a furniture workshop. At home, all that remains is to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remains of the stove you can make shelves for books or something else needed in the household.

So we have ready set parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To do the job you will need the following tool:

screwdriver;
drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
jigsaw;
confirmation drill;
bit extension;
bits (cross and hex);
mallet;
pencil;
ruler;
awl;
roulette.

You will also need consumables:

Confirmations – 50 pcs.
Stickers or plugs for confirmations – 50 pcs.
Self-tapping screws 3.8×45 mm – 15 pcs.
Self-tapping screws 3.5×30 mm – 30 pcs.
Self-tapping screws 3.5×16 mm – 40 pcs.
Furniture corner – 12 pcs.
Direct roller – 8 pcs.
Wide furniture handles – 2 pcs.
Plastic legs – 12 pcs.
Bar 20×45 mm (3 m) – 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since a 200x70 cm mattress will be used, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten slats on one side you need to fix the corners.

First, let's make drawers that can be pushed under the bed. First of all, let's assemble the frame. To do this, we lay out the blanks so that the part covered with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to mix up the sides. It’s good if the edge is not glued to the end of the inner part, then you won’t get confused. If the edges of the parts are glued in a circle (which is incorrect), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. Once you are sure that everything matches, you can begin assembly.

Stepping back about 3 cm from the bottom (or top) edge, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, as one awkward movement will ruin the part. The thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, slightly core it and drill a hole without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on unused leftover sheets.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to screw the bottom, eight confirmats are enough - 2 on each side. These drawers are not designed to hold very heavy items because the plastic casters are not designed for that.

All that remains is to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second one is assembled in the same sequence.

Putting the finished drawers aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since the drawers will be installed on one side, you need to assemble 3 parts together, using 3 confirmats on each side.

As a result, we will get a “bench” like this.

Now we will assemble a decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmats will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with pulling out the drawers, and we connect them together from the inside with 3.5 × 30 mm self-tapping screws.

You need to nail down the plastic legs.

Let's start making the fins. On the front of the frame, you need to draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we will fasten the bars with corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is aligned along the line.

Instead of fins made from boards, you can use a laminated chipboard cut to size.

After this, all that remains is to screw the bars to the opposite side using 30 mm self-tapping screws.

Having rolled up the drawers and laid out the mattress, you can start using the bed.

As you can see, with the right approach it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from laminated chipboard at home. The design can be of any size, as in the following video.

Video: making a double podium bed from chipboard

Pallet bed

Beds made from pallets are now in fashion. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not so, because beds made from pallets can also be found in houses with rather rich furnishings.

Let's move on from words to action. Let's consider one of the options for assembling a bed from pallets. How many of them will you need? It all depends on the size and design of the product being manufactured. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If there is such a possibility, then you need to choose as complete pallets as possible. They need to be sanded.

All pallets should be painted using non-toxic wood paint. Since wood is very hygroscopic, most likely the pallets will need to be painted 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, you need to fasten them together. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled for the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together using metal plates and fixed with wood screws.

Thanks to this simple technology, you can make a pretty decent bed from pallets.

You can also make a back from pallets.

You can assemble some furniture from the remains of pallets and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

From plywood

A product made from plywood will not surprise anyone, but it can also be used to make furniture at home. We will use FSF brand sheets, since not all plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Let's look at an example of making a bed for a spring mattress 1900x900x200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. A bed made from 18 mm plywood will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use sheets 15 mm thick - they are much stronger than standard laminated chipboard.

Plywood 2.44×1.22 m - 1 sheet.
Beam 30×40 mm - 2 pcs. 1.9 m each.
Beam 30×40 mm - 7 pcs. 0.9 m each.
If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then purchase additional PVC edges. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p/m.
Glue “Moment” - 1 tube.
Screws 5×40 mm - 26 pcs.
Screws 5×60 mm - 12 pcs.
Screws 3×9 mm - 8 pcs.
Thrust bearings - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Instead of screws, you can use wood screws.

Side wall back side bed has big sizes in height. This is done so that the drawers pushed under the bed do not rest against the walls. If there are no drawers, then the side walls can be made the same.

Making a bed

From an existing sheet of plywood you need to cut out parts corresponding to the drawing.

If desired, you can use laminated plywood. In this case, it is important to consider that cutting such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating is very difficult. In addition, the edges will then need to be covered with furniture edges.

To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and move the jigsaw slowly - this way we will get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should have parts of the following sizes:

Front back – 932×650 mm.
Rear backrest – 932×500 mm.
Front side panel – 1900×200 mm.
Rear side panel – 1900×350 mm (if without cabinets, then we also make 1900×200 mm).

The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this you can use a small wooden block, wrapped in medium-grit sandpaper.
After this, we assemble the bed frame.

Bed base

The backs are attached to the side strips with 5x40 mm screws (2 on each front side, and 3 on the back).
Then we screw the beam to the side rails of the bed using 5x40 mm screws (7 pieces per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If you drive deeper, the screw will go right through the plywood.
We will fasten the crossbars made of timber to horizontal beams with 5x60 mm self-tapping screws (1 for each point).
Using 5x40 mm screws, screw the bars to the backs from the inside (3 self-tapping screws for each).
On last stage We will screw the thrust bearings from below to the backrests - 2 screws 3x9 mm for each.
We install the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If instead spring mattress If you use a soft one on the frame, then you need to cut out the bottom from plywood and screw it to the bars on top.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a bed from plywood.

Made of metal

If you have some welding skills, you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the bolted connection option, since such a product will very quickly become loose.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that she looks very presentable.

For its manufacture the following materials were needed:

Profile pipe 50×25 mm – 8 m.
Profile pipe 40×40 mm – 8 m.
Profile pipe 20×20 mm (or 15×15) – 40 m.

In addition to the pipes, metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bending machine is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes rather than use those that have been lying in the garage for several years, then do not opt for rusty ones, since they will then need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame making

Since the bed is collapsible, its parts can be made in parts. Let's start with the backs.

The base will be 40x40 mm pipes. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m each. If the ceilings are low, then you can reduce them to 185 cm.
The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we will cut 8 identical pieces of 82 cm each (90-(4+4) = 82) from a 20x20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes of 30 cm each.
For now we will use only half of the prepared material.
On a flat plane, parallel to each other, you need to lay the rack pipes.
Stepping back 40 cm from the bottom and 1 cm from the edge, a pipe 82 cm long is grabbed.
You need to check with a construction angle that the angles are set correctly.
After 95 cm, the second pipe is tacked.
We return to the first one, and use tacks to assemble the grille - 2 pipes of 30 cm each and a crossbar of 82 cm.
We do the same with the second lattice.
After checking the angles and alignment of the tacked parts, they can be thoroughly welded.
The second backrest is made in the same way.

Now let's start making the shelves.

We will also cut the 50×25 mm profile pipe into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we will need 26 pieces of pipe 20x20 mm, 83 cm each (88-(2.5+2.5)=83).
2 pipes are laid on edge parallel to each other.
We mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second one is assembled in exactly the same way.
To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the grille on the back. The pipe used for fencing must be bent and not welded at an angle. If you don’t have a pipe bending machine, you can fill it with sand and bend it in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

3 more are welded in the same way vertical racks, but it will not be welded to the back, so you need to weld a small strip at the end.

The time has come to assemble the structure together; for this we will use some more welding.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

From a 20x20 mm pipe you need to cut 16 pieces of 10 cm each and weld them to the backs at the junction.
Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the grate pipe and secured to the back. If this is not done, then you will not be able to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not match.
After checking the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

Using a grinder, you need to process the welding seams.

Assembly

Now let's assemble the bed.
In order for the dismountable parts to hold securely together, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

We attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
Once the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and assembled.
To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed at home.

Manufacturing of decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then when making a bed, instead of standard profile pipes you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

People may have the misconception that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Design selection

An incorrectly selected bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in this field:

It is best if the bed is made from natural materials. At using laminated chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.) products must be certified, intended for the manufacture of furniture.
Bed size has great importance. A single room can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double room can be 200, 180 and 160 cm wide. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act on the principle - the bigger the better. The length of the bed should be 20 cm longer than the person’s height (minimum 10 cm).
Structures made from chipboard (and laminated chipboard) are the most unreliable and brittle.
A solid bed bottom does not allow the mattress to ventilate, but too few fins can cause the mattress to become deformed.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are some nuances of choice here.

The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not too deformed under the weight of the person lying on it, so it needs to be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress is right for you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before purchasing.
If you purchased a hard mattress, then you can put a thick mattress cover on it, made from latex or memory mold (3 to 10 cm thick). If you haven’t decided on your choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

Concerning design features beds, then it is a matter of personal preference and convenience. IN small room you can place a bed with drawers under it, foldable or pulled out from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to your imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed for your bedroom

Single

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, be it a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example for two children. Be that as it may, you first need to decide which design is suitable, and then start manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photos of single beds

Double

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep on, you need to take care of its size and design. Look at the photo exhibition of double products.

Photos of double beds

Bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It could be like simple bed, and a fairytale castle in which a child will be happy to fall asleep. When choosing the design of this kind of children's bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a children's bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

On modern market You can find absolutely everything in goods and services, but many people prefer to make a piece of furniture themselves, without the help of specialists. A do-it-yourself double bed, drawings and diagrams of which are attached, can become a real decoration of the bedroom interior. To make such a bed, you need to familiarize yourself with the general recommendations of specialists, make a drawing and a plan of sequential actions. The drawing is needed to calculate the necessary materials, funds for their purchase and draw up a sequence of installation work.

Preparatory work

A do-it-yourself double bed has a number of advantages - the ability to choose the required size, design, shape of the legs, as well as quality finished product the end result, thanks to which, the bedroom turns into a masterpiece.

The main details in its manufacture are:

design, which can be classic or with a lifting system;
a drawing to assist in the preparation and manufacture of parts;
plan of sequential actions.

Layout of a double bed including mattress

Drawings and diagrams

No work on the manufacture of interior items is complete without drawings and diagrams. The production of a double design was no exception. Below you can see several options for drawings and diagrams often used in the manufacture of double models.

Having decided on the type and size of a double bed, you need to do detail drawing. The scheme allows you to buy required amount building materials of a certain size or order their production in furniture workshop. The drawing is also used throughout construction process, for making individual elements with your own hands and their fastenings.

Double bed with several drawers

Assembly diagram

Bed with two drawers on the sides

Main details

Beds with nightstands

Side view
Frame assembly

Materials and tools for work

A double bed can be regular or with a lifting mechanism. Their manufacturing technique is slightly different from each other, since a product with a lifting mechanism has an additional box for storing things and a lifting bed frame.In order to determine the size of the product, you need to take into account the dimensions of the factory mattress that you plan to purchase.To make a standard double bed with your own hands, you will need the following materials.

When choosing a material, many are faced with wood of different quality. Experts recommend choosing high-quality wood only for the supporting structure. For the legs and bottom slats, you can purchase second-rate material. If on quality material If you don't have enough money, you can buy chipboard or plywood.

If you plan to make a product with a lifting mechanism, then you will need a little more materials. Since, in addition to the main frame, it is also necessary to make a lifting frame for the berth. For its manufacture, you can use metal building material. The drawing should include not only construction material, and also the type of lifting mechanism, because its installation plays a big role.

Choosing a board

Tools you will need:

roulette;
pencil or marker;
brushes;
sandpaper;
wood putty;
varnish, stain;
wood glue;
self-tapping screws (30, 50, 60 mm);
measuring square;
drill;
jigsaw;
clamps;
grinding machine;
construction stapler;
hacksaw.

When cutting parts according to the dimensions of the drawing, you need to mark them as accurately as possible.

Main frame

The process of making a double bed with your own hands begins with the main frame. A product with a lifting mechanism is also made from its base, which consists not only of four boards, but also of the bottom, as in the photo.

Frame assembly

Frame manufacturing steps:

in the prepared parts it is necessary to make holes for fastenings using a drill. The diameter must correspond to the 30 mm screws that are used to fasten the boards;

Prepare holes for fastening

clean the ends of the boards using sandpaper or a grinding machine;

Cleaning the ends of the boards grinder

open them with wood glue;
Insert self-tapping screws into the drilled holes and fasten the boards together using a screwdriver or screwdriver;

We fasten the boards using self-tapping screws

Having finished fastening, you need to remove all excess glue using a damp cloth;

Remove excess glue with a damp cloth

upon completion, it is necessary to check all the corners of the structure, make sure that they are straight, using a construction square;
After the frame has dried, you need to paint it. The color of the stain is chosen solely from the personal preferences of the owner;

Finished frame after painting

if the frame is made in the form of a box, it is necessary to make a bottom, which can be solid (made of plywood) or slatted.

Attaching supports for slatted bottom

The supports for laying the slats are attached according to the same principle as the frame.

Technology for fastening supports for slatted bottom:

in the support boards it is necessary to drill holes for the thickness of the screws, in increments of 25 cm;
to fasten the boards, it is better to place the frame on its side and, having drawn a line at a distance of 5 cm from its bottom, you can proceed to the installation steps;

To attach the boards, I placed the frame on its side

Before attaching the support boards, they must be lubricated with wood glue;
fastening is carried out along the frame along its edges, using 50 mm self-tapping screws;
For stability while the glue dries, the support block must be pressed; for this you can use clamps. An example can be seen in the photo;

The frame with the block was fixed until completely dry.

the middle support board is attached parallel to the previous two, at the same height, by drilling holes in its ends;
the remaining holes from the fasteners must be sealed with putty and cleaned with sandpaper after it dries.

Legs

Making legs with your own hands is the most simple step throughout the entire construction process.

The whole manufacturing process:

the prepared timber with a cross-section of 10x10 cm needs to be cut into 6 bars 10.5 cm long;

Blank for future legs

fastening is carried out to the support bars;
to strengthen the frame, two additional legs are attached under the central support, at a distance of 50 cm from the edges of the frame;
To decorate them, you can give them any shape. You can saw off one of the corners approximately 3 cm from the bottom, at an angle of 45 degrees, as in the photo;
Upon completion of the work, all sides must be sanded.

Fastening all created elements:

as mentioned above, the legs are attached to the frame support boards. To do this, you need to use 60 mm self-tapping screws. You need to spend at least two on each leg;

This is what the leg mounting looks like from the inside

holes are pre-drilled with a drill, a drill whose diameter coincides with the cross-section of the screws.

Legs attached to frame

Before screwing in the screws, you must first drill holes, which will reduce the risk of splitting the boards.

Decorative elements

Decorative elements play a big role in finishing the product; thanks to them, the bedroom will sparkle with new colors. One of the options for finishing elements is wooden slats, 5 by 2.5 cm thick, which should also be included in the drawing.

Manufacturing process:

it is necessary to make the required size of slats from the prepared materials;
the prepared slats must be sanded and painted with stain, the color of which is chosen based on personal preferences and the design of the room;
after drying, they are coated with water-based varnish;
After opening the first layer of varnish, you need to sand the slats to prevent the appearance of all kinds of bubbles. Next, apply two more layers of varnish;
The painting procedure must also be carried out with the legs.

Fastening:

decorative trim is attached with glue;
it is necessary to apply glue to the surface of the frame and finishing slats;
using clamps, press them for a while, preferably until the glue dries completely;
all excess glue must be wiped off with a damp cloth;
The slats can be fastened using either nails or self-tapping screws.

Fastening the lifting mechanism requires additional skills, since its installation must be of high quality and safe. There are three types of mechanisms, each of which is installed differently. Therefore, having chosen a certain type, you need to carefully study its installation diagram or seek the help of specialists.

Reiki

To make classic beds with your own hands, the slats are laid on the support boards of the frame. And in products with a lifting mechanism, they are placed on a lifting frame. Or it is possible to lay them on two frames at the same time, since on the frame they are used for the bottom, and on the lifting frame, for laying the mattress.

The slats are made very simply:

according to the given dimensions, it is necessary to measure the length of the slats and cut them from purchased boards;

Marking boards for making slats

for convenience and practicality, so that there are no discrepancies in the length of the slats, the first plank can be used as a sample, and subsequent planks can be marked on its basis;
Having finished the process of making slats, you need to sand each one.

How to make a headboard and what you need for it

A headboard in a double bed is necessary for three main reasons:

it is a decorative element;
protects wall coverings from rubbing;
for comfort.

The headboard can be different sizes, shapes and coatings, it all depends on personal preferences, the interior of the room and financial capabilities. Here are photos of several examples.

Before making it, you also need to make a drawing with your own hands, which will indicate the dimensions and necessary materials. Basically, a sheet of plywood, upholstery fabric and foam rubber are used to create a soft and airy headboard.

Complete manufacturing technology:

The first thing to do is measure the width and height of the headboard. Transfer all dimensions to a sheet of plywood and cut out the parts;

Cut the foam according to the dimensions of the workpiece

If rectangular shape you are not satisfied with the headboard, it can be made round or ornate. To do this, prepare a template and a jigsaw in advance;
irregularities and notches resulting from the cutting process must be treated with sandpaper;
To make a soft headboard you will need foam rubber, a stapler and upholstery fabric. Attach the foam rubber to the headboard blank using a stapler and cover it with the prepared fabric;

Foam rubber needs to be stapled and covered upholstery fabric

if you plan to make a regular headboard, then the plywood blank needs to be opened with varnish or paint;
The finished headboard can be attached directly to the bed or to the wall.

The bedroom should create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, which is achieved with design design and furniture attributes. A good bed is needed not only to decorate a room, but also to ensure a sound, comfortable sleep, which can be achieved with the right bed. You can not only purchase it, but also make it yourself. Having fulfilled all the requirements, the product will serve for a long time, performing all its intended functions.

Every person spends a third of his life sleeping, and from have a nice rest at such a time his condition depends. The quality of rest at night depends on the comfort of the body position that the bed provides.

Now in furniture showrooms It is possible to choose any model of bed, but there are many reasons why many non-people cannot purchase the model they like. So the question often arises of how to make a bed with your own hands and at the same time save quite a good amount.

Types of bed models

Before you settle on a certain model of bed that you want to make, you need to know about some of them. This is necessary so that you can evaluate all the nuances of the design and evaluate your strengths and capabilities. Furniture designers and constructors have developed a large number of variations, and most of them can be made independently.

The main difficulty of the process self-assembly It is mainly hidden during the preparation and processing of all structural elements, because for such operations it is often necessary to have a special tool. But in any case, to start creating such furniture, you need to familiarize yourself with different models made from various materials.

Bed with drawers

A bed equipped with pull-out drawers can be:

double;
single;
one and a half.

Such bed models are especially in demand in children's rooms, where there are always many toys and other items for activities. This design is convenient because it does not take up free space in the room, and helps create a place to store various items in the room. At the same time, by pulling out such a drawer, you will immediately see what is in it, and you will not need to delve, for example, into the depths of the closet, where it is so difficult to find the things you need.

The design of such a bed is not particularly complex compared to a regular bed. The main thing here is to draw up good drawings, and correctly enter all the dimensions into them, carry out competent processing of the parts that will be intended for assembly, also assemble them well and choose convenient and high-quality fittings. Drawers should open easily, that is, move freely; for this you can use guide-type mechanisms on the sides or attach wheels to the bottom of the box.

Hanging beds

This interesting option for a sleeping place is not as difficult to make as you might think. One of the most important requirements What must be observed in order for this design to function effectively is a large amount of free space, because the bed is designed to swing within a certain range.

The sleeping place has a frame, which includes a frame and slats, but it should be taken into account that all elements should be made of high quality material and securely fastened to each other. For this design it is necessary to use only light wood so that there is no heavy load on the supports. A mattress that may be overweight should have the same qualities.

Metal beds

Beds that are made from metal corners, strips, rods and fittings can only be made by experienced welders, but this bed option can serve you long time and will not require repairs, and will not bother you with its creaking. A metal bed will fit especially well into a certain style of your interior, for example, modern, retro or empire.

The heavy-duty and stable design has a light appearance and even seems weightless, so it will fit perfectly into any interior and become its decoration. Most people associate metal with something negative – rust, which can leave stains on a mattress or bed linen. You should not be afraid of this, since in our time technologies are well developed, with the help of which they have developed paints and varnishes that protect not only your bedding, but also metal from corrosion. With this design, the mattress will never sag and will always be well ventilated, because the frame has high level rigidity.

Transformer: bed-wardrobe

A bed that can be turned into a wardrobe at any time is an indispensable piece of furniture in small apartments, and this design can also be made with your own hands, you just need to buy a lifting and supporting mechanism. Here you can easily remove the bed and turn it into an imitation of a cabinet or wardrobe.

A transforming bed can be different in size, it becomes an imitation large closet or become a compact chest of drawers with a table top. The latest model can be used in a children's room, as a main bed or as an extra bed if guests arrive. In addition, in some cases this design is placed on a loggia or on a balcony with insulation, since in the summer it is always pleasant to relax in the fresh air.

The most difficult moments in the manufacture of such a model is the choice lifting mechanisms, and, of course, high-quality processing all components so that it can be easily assembled and disassembled, and there are no jams or distortions of the structure.

Podium bed

Another bed variation that will help you save space in a small room is a podium bed. The essence of this design is that the place to sleep does not take up extra space in the room, because the bed can be removed during the day under a podium, which the child can use for games or for activities.

New design solution: podium bed

This model of bed is not difficult to produce, but for such furniture it is necessary to prepare only high-quality materials, and the work will require a lot of time. But in the end you will get an excellent result, because you will have comfortable spot for sleeping and an interesting design solution.

In addition to those models that have been listed, some of the most popular and frequently selected models include:

bed with lifting mechanisms;
with an orthopedic frame;
two-tier;
with frames made of wooden slats;
bed-sofa and many others.

We will consider some of them in more detail.

Making a bed with your own hands

Classic wooden double bed

This simple bed standard sizes, are made from natural wood, which you can do yourself, purchase ready-made ones, or order cutting and processing of all parts from a carpentry shop. To make a double bed out of wood, you need the following materials:

pine beams for legs and boxes, having a cross-section of 50 by 50 mm, their length should be 2200 millimeters in the amount of 15 pieces;
wood glue or PVA for furniture;
self-tapping screws 40 and 65 mm;
metal corners with a shelf width of 50 mm.

The frame that will be produced is intended for a mattress measuring 2000 by 1600 mm, so the space inside should be 2100 by 1700 mm, and the dimensions outside 2200 by 1800 mm.

Carrying out work

Because the box for bed frames should be 15 cm or 20 cm high, and the width of the walls 5 cm, the timber should be glued together in 3-4 pieces. To do this, the sides of the bars are lubricated with glue, then they are placed one on top of the other, pressed with clamps and left to dry.

After this, the blanks that you glued together should be adjusted to the dimensions you need. Thus, in order to assemble the box, you will need panels for the sides (drawbars) having a length of 2200 mm, one strip of 210 cm for the jumper in the middle, and two jumpers for the ends 161 cm long.

In order for there to be a lock on the corners reliable connection, 5 cm are measured along the edges at the top and bottom and these fragments are carefully sawed off and removed without removing the middle bar. After this, the parts that protrude from the sides are greased with glue and placed in the gap between the bars on the end panel of the box. They are then compressed with clamps and left to dry.

You can do it differently by using a connection like tying bars. Here the bars are glued into a box already trimmed. The bars of the first row are laid out on a flat floor, forming a rectangle. The sides on the sides should have a length of 210 cm, the end parts 150 cm. The sides of the panel beams are coated with glue, and the bars of the end side of the box are pressed against them, and then they are fastened with self-tapping screws. The angles in the rectangle are set using a construction square and checked by measuring the diagonals, which should be the same length. Then the middle row must be glued to the row below, the length of the bars on the sides should be 220 cm, and the part at the end should be 170 cm. The ends are coated with glue and placed between the other two bars on the sides, then this entire structure is fixed. Then the row in the middle, in addition to glue, is also attached to the bottom row with self-tapping screws. In the very top and last row, the bars should be the same size as the bottom row and they are secured with self-tapping screws under the countersunk and left to dry. This method assemblies are more difficult, because if the master does not have some experience, the corners may turn out skewed.

The next step is to secure the element in the middle of the structure. The part is a jumper that glues together two bars that are 200 cm long. Before attaching the jumper, the bed box should be turned over, the end sides are marked so that you can accurately determine the middle. The jumper at the bottom must coincide with the level of the entire box. After this, on the row at the bottom of the box, where the places were marked, you should screw the thrust bars, which have a length of 15 cm. They will become a support for the main partition. In order to dock these supporting elements in the lower beam of the lintel, select 5 cm from the edge. The parts are secured with glue and screws. As a support, you can use a metal corner with a 5 cm shelf; you need to drill holes in it for fastening to the walls of the box and to the crossbar. The already finished lintel will serve as an additional base for the boards that will be laid on the box.

This model is equipped with 4 legs in the corners. They should also be secured with bolts or self-tapping screws now, while the box is upside down. Sections of timber measuring 5 by 5 cm are taken as legs. The legs are attached to the structure first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws or bolts through and through, and as an additional fastening it is recommended to use metal corners on both sides. You choose the height of the legs yourself, but in most cases it is 20-30 cm. The lower the legs, the more stable the bed will be, but a low height will complicate the cleaning process.

Also, in order to prevent the central part from sagging, additional supports must be attached to the jumper in the middle, so the bed will be more reliable and will not lose its rigidity. The support legs in the middle can be secured using different methods.

After the glue has completely dried, you can turn the box over into the correct position and place it on its legs.

Then, on the panels of the box on the sides, lines are marked along which beams or boards will be fixed, having a width of 3 - 4 cm with a thickness of 2.5 - 3 cm. This beam will become the support for installing the floor boards. These boards should be positioned so that they are flush with the lintel in the center. Craftsmen are guided by the gluing lines of the timber from above; if you did everything correctly, then the overall level will be accurate.

The next step is to lay the boards on top of the supporting shelves. The boards should not rest against the sides of the box, otherwise squeaks may occur during operation. So between the box and the boards there should be a small gap of 4 - 5 mm on both sides.

There is no need to lay the boards with a continuous board; they are laid in such a way that there is a distance of 2–4 cm between them.

The boards are secured at three points, from the edges to the supporting shelves, and in the center to the longitudinal support. At each point, two screws with a length of 4 cm are screwed in. To prevent cracks from appearing, holes for the screws should first be drilled at the fastening points with a drill with a diameter of 3 mm.

When the installation of the boards is completed, it is necessary to examine all surfaces of the structure. If necessary, remove large burrs, glue leaking from the seams and other defects.

After this it begins finishing assembled structure. Initially, all surfaces should be brought to a smooth state. For this kind of wood processing, it is best if you use a sanding machine on which sandpaper with the required grit is installed; first use sandpaper 80 - 100, and then 280 - 400.

If you don't have special tool then you can use electric drill, simply by placing a grinding attachment on it. After such processing, it is necessary to examine all the details of the product and, if there is a need, process some places manually. Then the entire structure is cleaned of dirt and dust and small sawdust, in other words, the product is prepared for coating.

Before coating the wood with varnish, it must be coated with primer. If you are going to use stain, then it is not necessary to use primer. To do this, use a spray or brush.

Then, if you are going to highlight the texture of the wood, then after the stain has dried, you need to sand all surfaces again.

All sides of the structure should be covered with stain, even those that are not visible. This is necessary because stain is an antiseptic and protects the wood from pests.

The next process is coating the product with varnish. Here best choice There will be a water-based varnish, especially if you carry out all the work indoors. This type of varnish does not have unpleasant odor, environmentally friendly, and after complete drying your bed will acquire a pleasant matte shine. In order for the bed to acquire a beautiful appearance, you need to apply several layers of varnish and remember that the next layer is applied only after the previous layer has dried.

In between drying layers of varnish, you can make a decorative headboard for the bed. You can take 3 boards with a width of 100 - 120 mm, a length of 160 cm, and 12 pieces of boards with a height of 40 - 46 cm. A lattice is constructed from them and processed in the same way as a bed, and then nailed to the wall.

Double bed with lifting mechanism

Another variation of a double bed is a model made using chipboard. In this design, compared to the previous one, there are no legs, and this makes it much more stable. On the positive side The advantage of this bed is that you can use the space under it, because it is equipped with lifting mechanisms that make it possible to lift the frame without removing the mattress.

Double bed made of chipboard with a mattress that rises

The negative aspects of this model include its massiveness; it does not make it possible to install it in small room. In addition, a material such as chipboard cannot be called completely environmentally friendly, because it is produced using binding elements that can emit harmful fumes, which negatively affects people.

It should be borne in mind that when choosing furniture that will be made from DPS, it is necessary to create all the conditions so that the room where the furniture will be located is effectively ventilated. And to make a bed you need to buy chipboards, which have formaldehyde emission class E1.

Thus, to make a bed with the usual mattress sizes of 180 by 200 by 20, you should prepare the following materials:

DPS slab with a thickness of 1.6 cm and dimensions of 350 by 175 cm;
two fiberboard sheet with a thickness of 0.5 cm, regular size 2745 by 1220 mm;
timber with a section of 5 by 5 cm, length 18 meters;
board having a thickness of 10-15 mm, width 6 cm, length 20 m or plywood 1 cm, with dimensions 1525 by 1525 mm;
lifting mechanism equipped with shock absorbers;
bolts and screws;
metal corners;
fabric to cover the structure, which is 150 cm wide and 500 cm long;
padding polyester width 160 cm, length 500 cm;
two sheets of foam rubber, thickness 1 cm, dimensions 300 by 100 cm;
staples for stapler 8-10 mm.

Having prepared everything you need, you can begin to make the entire structure.

From chipboard having a thickness of 1.6 cm the following is produced:

the headboard measures 1080 by 2130 mm, it can be made rounded or with right angles;
side panel of the structure 2 pieces, dimensions 2330 by 350 mm;
one end panel measuring 2130 by 350 mm;
There is one partition inside measuring 2010 by 280 mm.

Elements made of 50 by 50 mm timber, which are fixed in the box:

longitudinal parts, they are fixed to the panels on the sides, 2 pieces, have a length of 2010 mm;
transverse element, one for the end panel, 1810 mm long;
racks with a height of 10 cm 4 pieces.

Elements made of 50 by 50 mm timber produced for the lifting frame:

longitudinal parts for the sheathing inside are five pieces with a length of 2005 mm;
transverse elements for sheathing inside, 2 pieces with a length of 1805 mm.

Slats sawn from plywood or boards measuring 60 by 15 by 1805 mm - 11 pieces.

Covering the bottom of the box is 2 sheets of fiberboard measuring 1650 by 2330 mm.

Having prepared all the necessary elements in order to assemble the structure, you can begin sheathing and assembling all the parts.

Step-by-step implementation works

If you are going to make a rounded headboard, then the template must initially be made on paper, and then transferred to chipboard and cut out using a jigsaw. Here it is important to take into account the fact that the headboard must be pressed against the wall, so the entire structure will be stronger. Usually at the junction with the floor and walls there is a plinth that has different widths. Thus, a support element made of a block or piece of chipboard, which has the same thickness as the baseboard, is specially fixed on top in the center of the headboard. Using it you will provide support for the backrest against the wall. You can, of course, remove part of the baseboard in the place where the bed will be located.

After this, you should try on the parts of the box to the headboard in the place where the installation will be carried out. Then, the supplied panels of the chipboard box are secured to each other in the corners using a piece of bars or metal corners. The headboard is not attached yet, because initially it needs to be covered with fabric. And elements from bars are tried on the attached panels.

The lamellas are tried on across the already laid bars and their location is marked.

The next thing to do is cover the head of the bed with foam rubber. Here you need to use a stapler and staples. The foam is leveled and initially secured to the front of the panel.

Then its edges are folded over and secured with staples on the back of the panel.

The fabric that you selected for this is stretched over the foam. Better buy thick fabric, which repels dust.

Sheathing work begins at the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is carefully stretched and attached in the same way as the foam rubber at the back of the panel.

Now you can secure the already upholstered headboard in place.

Then you need to make a frame for the lifting frame. All parts are assembled and secured using metal corners. All the bars, there are five of them, must be placed at the same distance; you should start from the middle of the entire structure. The beam in the middle should rest on a partition made of chipboard, which in turn is fixed in the frame of the bed itself. After you have assembled the frame, it is temporarily removed to the side.

Then, both the inside and outside of the box wall must be sheathed using a stapler; initially, a padding polyester is secured, and then the same fabric with which you sheathed the headboard for the bed.

The next step is securing and marking the parts that relate to the lifting mechanism on the frame.

After all these manipulations, it is necessary to try on the frame to the box and mark the place where the beam will be installed on the side panels of the box, on which the second part of the lifting mechanism parts will be installed.

After this, the beam is fixed, and the fixed elements of the lifting mechanism are screwed to it, and the structure is tested. The beam is fixed to the chipboard using self-tapping screws, which are 5 cm long. The heads of these screws should be recessed into the wood by 0.5 - 1 mm.

Then lamellas are attached to the frame transversely to the bars using self-tapping screws.

When the bed is folded, the lifting mechanism is located in a special niche between the bars. A semicircular cutout is cut out on the partition, where the element of the lifting mechanism will be located.

Now the entire structure is installed on the panel on the side to make it convenient to carry out subsequent work.

The next step is to prepare the chipboard sheets with which you will cover the bottom of the bed frame. This will make it possible to build a space where you can store different things.

Sheathing can be done using staples or self-tapping screws with a small length and diameter, but they must have wide heads.

After installing the bottom, the bed can be lowered and set in place.

Wooden elements are installed on the side of the beam inside. They are necessary to ensure structural rigidity when the bed is folded. Besides similar elements They are also placed in the corners of the box.

In order to ensure comfortable lifting of the frame along with the mattress, fabric loops or some kind of handles are secured in front. They are screwed using self-tapping screws, which have wide heads, to the block at the end of the structure.