How to deal with rust on leaves. How to defeat rust on fruit tree leaves

Most often, houseplants suffer from fungal diseases and insect pests. The leaves and root system are primarily affected. Based on the characteristic signs of lesions, you can determine the cause of diseases in indoor plants and eliminate it in a timely manner.

High temperature and high humidity are an excellent environment for the development of bacteria. For this reason, flowers should be sprayed and watered in moderation, since excess moisture increases the likelihood of the spread of pathogens.

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Alternaria blight

Alternaria blight refers to a fungal disease in which the leaves, tubers and stems of the plant become covered with brown spots. The causative agents are fungi of the genus Alternaria. The disease first affects the lower leaves, and then the lesion rises higher in concentric circles. Over time, the spots turn black and grow. Alternaria blight especially progresses with sudden temperature changes.

The best environment for the development of microorganisms is a warm and damp microclimate, when the indoor humidity is 90% and the temperature is +30° C.

Prevention of such a disease is good ventilation. Ventilation helps fight mold. Also, a high density of shoots should not be allowed to exclude the source of bacteria: excess branches with leaves should be removed in a timely manner.



Anthracnose

The disease is caused by deuteromycetes of the genera Gloeosporium, Colletotrichum, Kabatiella. The spots on the affected leaves can have different shades: sometimes they are gray-yellow, in other cases brown or purple. As the spots grow, they acquire a brown tint. Spores form on them, which appear in the form of hairs. In these places the leaf surface is rough.

The fungus is frost-resistant and spreads with watering. Develops at high humidity and elevated temperatures.

At the initial stages of the disease, the affected leaves are removed and watering of the plant is reduced in order to reduce humidity. Plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, and the fungicidal preparation Strobi.



Ascochyta blight

Phytopathology is accompanied by the appearance of small brown spots with a diameter of 1-2 mm on the leaves. As they grow, they darken and a yellow border forms along the edge of the spot. When the disease affects the stem, it breaks at the site of infection. The first signs of the disease appear in the form of drying of the tips of the leaves. A darkened, brown stripe appears at the border with the healthy part.

The pathogenic fungus is very resistant and can withstand frost and drought well. Transferred by droplets of water when sprayed. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.



Downy mildew

The disease is provoked by the activity of fungi - oomycetes. At the initial stage of the disease, yellow spots of irregular configuration appear on the upper part of the leaf blade. After a while they turn brown and then turn brown. A gray coating appears on the lower half of the leaf, which then turns black. Diseased leaves gather in corrugations, turn yellow and fall off. In later stages, the disease affects the plant's vascular system. On the cut, this appears in the form of darkened vessels.

Ideal conditions for the development of phytopathology are:

• high acidity of the soil substrate;
• high humidity;
• limited access to fresh air, poor ventilation of the room.

The source of the disease is poor disinfection of seeds and soil. For preventative purposes, seeds are kept in water at a temperature of +50° C for 20 minutes before planting. Warm seeds are immersed in cold water for 3 minutes and then air dried.

Low humidity is maintained in the room. Bushes require constant thinning to improve air access. For disinfection purposes, the soil must be changed periodically.

When the disease has spread to the plant, the infected leaves and side branches are removed. Spraying is carried out with Bordeaux mixture, Bravo or Quadris preparations. If the soil is already contaminated, then spraying is excluded.

To avoid powdery mildew, houseplants should not be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, especially when the budding process is in progress. Since spores easily travel long distances, bacteria can be introduced from trees located outside the window. The development of the disease is influenced by lack of air, but drafts are also contraindicated. You can treat the affected buds with sulfur, whey or milk.

Rust on leaves

With this disease, rusty spots appear on the leaves. If you grind them in your hand, a powder is formed. This disease is also fungal. It appears as a result of excessive watering, lack of sufficient lighting and lack of fresh air.

Sometimes the disease enters the ground along with the seeds. It is impossible to recognize it in advance, so before planting the soil and seed are treated with potassium permanganate. Fungal spores can be blown in by the wind if a flower pot is placed on a window. Therefore, in the spring, all plants should be treated with Bordeaux mixture for preventive purposes. If rust has affected a small part of the leaves, they should be removed.

The appearance of rust spots can be caused by incorrect dosage of fertilizers. If the soil substrate has not been changed for a long time, the soil should be completely replaced.

Gray rot

A fungal disease caused by the activity of conidia and sclerotia on dead areas of plants. First, the stem is damaged and becomes covered with a grayish-olive coating. Later the disease spreads to leaves and flowers.

Such pests can be:

• Aphid. An insect that sucks sap from plant tissue.
• Cyclamen mite. It sticks to the surface of the leaves, a large accumulation of mites looks like dust.
• Nematode. It is difficult to combat these pests, but they rarely attack indoor flowers.
• Mealybug. This is a small beetle covered with down.
• Shield. It is protected by a wax shield, so the drugs do not affect the insect.
• Grape elephant. A leaf-eating beetle.
• Caterpillars. Rarely affects indoor plants.

Keeping indoor plants requires constant care and maintaining the right climatic conditions. You need to monitor the main factors: humidity and air temperature in the room. A sharp drop or increase in these indicators should not be allowed. It is necessary to change the soil more often and check its acidity. This way you can avoid damage to indoor plants by fungal diseases and pests.

There are a variety of diseases of indoor flowers, some of them are complex, requiring a special approach to treatment and preventive measures in the future. Rust is a disease of indoor plants - rare, but dangerous, capable of destroying a flower. The name of this flower disease is explained by the appearance of the lesions: red and brown spots appear on the leaves of houseplants, slightly convex and as if fleecy. In fact, it is a fungus. Treatment of domestic flowers affected by it is long and complex. It is imperative to reconsider the conditions in which the plant is located and the care regimen.

A ficus completely infected with rust is very difficult to cure.

It is not so difficult to recognize rust on plants; the signs of this disease are specific, they cannot be confused or missed.

1. First, rust appears on the leaves and stems of domestic flowers. It looks like yellow-brown or red-brown convex spots of various sizes and shapes.
2. The spots increase in size, swell and form pustules. The leaves of diseased plants intensively evaporate moisture, the pustules quickly dry out, crack and burst. They release a “rusty” powder, which poses a serious threat to neighboring healthy plants. These are fungal spores that quickly spread through the air throughout the flower garden.
3. Then the spores completely cover the entire surface of the leaves and stems and appear on the flowers. Plants change color, becoming brown or brown.
4. Then indoor flowers begin to dry out and lose leaves; if treatment is not started, the plants will die.

However, even if you start taking measures, it is not always possible to save indoor plants from disease. Therefore, it is better to prevent its appearance and development.

It is important to know: at temperatures not exceeding 10 degrees above zero, the incubation period of the disease lasts up to 20 days. If the temperature is above 18 degrees, then the incubation period is reduced to 7-14 days.

Reasons for appearance

Rust is a fungal disease, and the fungus, as you know, likes to settle in places where it is humid, warm and dark. From this we can conclude that rust appears on plants if they are watered too often and abundantly, not ventilated and kept in the shade, away from direct sunlight or phytolamps.

It is especially dangerous to flood indoor plants with water in winter. Many flowers in the cold season go into a dormant state until spring; they do not need frequent watering, nor do they need mineral fertilizing. If, in addition to this, the pot is located near the radiator, you should not be surprised at the appearance of such a plant disease.

Over-watering indoor plants can lead to rust infection.

Also, the development of fungus can be provoked by the abuse of mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. In winter they are not needed at all. And during the growing season and flowering of plants, you should strictly follow the instructions and do not apply too high a concentration of fertilizer.

If pots with plants are placed on an open terrace, veranda or balcony, then fungal spores can be carried by the wind or insects. Sometimes you come across seeds that are already infected with rust. Recognizing this is difficult, often completely impossible. This is one of the reasons why seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing. As well as the containers with soil in which they will be planted.

Which indoor plants suffer more often than others?

In principle, rust can appear on any type of indoor plant. But the fungus loves certain varieties more than others. In addition, there are house flowers that are more sensitive to fungal spores and are unable to fight it. The following ornamental crops should be protected from moisture and overheating with special care:

• camellia;
• fuchsia;
• carnation;
• cyclamen;
• pelargonium;
• rose;
• geranium;
• chrysanthemum.

A cameo leaf damaged by rust cannot be treated.

This fungus likes to settle on garden crops such as asparagus and citrus bushes, and often affects palm trees of various types.

We treat and prevent disease

In most cases, a flower garden suffers from rust due to the fault of the owners themselves - this means that they do not properly care for their plants. To prevent the formation and spread of fungus in the spring, all flowers should be treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

What to do if a fungus has settled on the plant and its leaves begin to rust? First of all, it is important to prevent infection of neighboring plants, even if the diseased flower cannot be saved. Therefore, a sick flower must be immediately taken to a hotel room. Every single one of the affected leaves is torn off, even if there are only a few small spots of rust on them. Then they need to be burned away from the flower garden.

Bordeaux mixture is used to combat rust on indoor and garden plants.

The flower itself can be treated with the same Bordeaux mixture. Or use sulfur dust. You can also prepare the following disinfectant mixture yourself:

• heat 5 liters of purified water;
• dissolve 200 g of green soap in water;
• add 15 g of copper sulfate.

The room in which the potted plant is located must be well ventilated several times a day, and it is better to keep the window constantly open. Neither dry air nor high humidity should be allowed.

It is important to water the plant correctly. The liquid should be added to the pan or to the soil, but so that the water gets under the root and not on the leaves and flowers of the plant. If fertilizing is used, then preference should be given to preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Copper sulfate is a component of a spray preparation that you can prepare yourself.

Beginning gardeners often confuse rust with any red spots on the leaves of plants and begin to spray the flower garden with various fungicides. As a result, many plants die from improperly applied products. Therefore, if you suspect that a plant has been damaged by a fungus, you should either familiarize yourself with high-quality photos of the symptoms and manifestations of the disease, or invite a knowledgeable person to examine the plants and make a diagnosis.

Rust can also manifest itself differently in different flowers and crops. On some flowers it develops faster, on others it grows very slowly, over weeks or months. In any case, the plant needs to be treated; the most important points in this process are ensuring a constant flow of fresh air and removing the affected parts of the flower. It is recommended to re-treat with a disinfectant solution 10-12 days after the first spraying.

Rust is a fungal disease of cultivated and wild plants. Billions of spores create many foci of infection on leaves, shoots, branches, trunks, and needles. The disease is easily recognized by its characteristic stripes, spots or raised orange-yellow pads.

Rust fungi have a complex development cycle. Most species can develop not on one plant, but on several - mushrooms are capable of infecting, manifesting and overwintering on different crops.

Causes

Fungi love warmth and moisture. Rust primarily affects plants that are often flooded, not ventilated, and grown in the shade. The fungus multiplies quickly if:

• the soil is heavy;
• The site area is not cleaned. It is especially dangerous to leave cut parts and plant debris from diseased plants on the beds;
• preventive treatments are ignored, since the spread of fungi is facilitated by unfavorable weather conditions and insect pests;
• plants are actively fertilized without observing the norms, while abusing nitrogen, including in winter ();
• there is not enough potassium in the soil. This element regulates photosynthesis, metabolism and, therefore, increases resistance to various diseases.

Rust on different plants

cucumbers

Cucumbers get sick in conditions of high humidity and low air temperature. Rust can appear at different stages of development, including both.

Dark depressed spots appear on the root collar. But the leaves suffer the most. They become covered with yellow or brown spots. The higher the humidity, the faster the fungus develops. The leaves die, the vines become weak, flowering deteriorates, and the plant may die.

Coniferous

Fungal spores infect all living above-ground parts of the tree: trunks, branches, needles, cones. Red bumps and pads may appear everywhere. After 1.5 years, these formations turn into yellow or red-brown growths of various sizes.

When their shells crack in the spring, millions of fungal spores are released. Shallow wounds form in these places. Spreading through the air for tens and hundreds of kilometers, the spores settle on different plants:,.

On new hosts, fungi undergo a new development cycle. In the fall, rust infects again. In diseased plants, their decorative properties are reduced: growth stops, branches become bent, needles turn yellow and fall off, seeds from cones become unviable.

Roses

The spread of the disease on roses is facilitated by pests - and. Fungal spores settle and develop in their secretions. First, orange spots appear on the shoots, then on the leaves. On the underside of the leaves they appear as convex formations.

By autumn these spots darken. This means that the mushrooms are preparing for winter and, if the foci of infection are not eliminated, next year the disease will break out with renewed vigor.

Peonies

In summer, after flowering, the upper part of the leaves becomes covered with brown, yellow-gray spots. On the underside, the spores mature in small orange pads. By the end of summer, these bulges grow, fill the entire lower part of the leaf and turn into curved columns. The leaves curl and dry out.

Grusha

The first signs of the disease are the appearance of round yellowish spots on the leaves. This happens in the second half of April.

Then the rust spreads to the petioles, and in case of severe damage - to the shoots and fruits. By mid-summer, spots are visible on most leaves, and the disease peaks in autumn. The swollen formations at the bottom of the leaves become larger and resemble “horns”.

Rust most often affects leaves and young shoots, less often the trunk, branches and fruits. In summer, yellow spots appear on the bottom of the leaves, and rusty stripes or rounded convex orange spots with black splashes appear on the top of the leaves. Dark spots with growths are places where spores accumulate.

After maturation, the pads open, the smallest spores of the fungus fly out, spreading for many kilometers in windy weather. With severe infection, the leaves and young shoots dry out. After 2–3 years, the bark on the trunk cracks, and the deformed fruits fall off.

Currant

The first signs appear in the spring after the leaves bloom. Yellow-orange spots appear on them on top, and convex orange pads appear on the underside. These are symptoms of glass rust.

With columnar rust, the top of the leaf is covered with yellow spots, and the underside is covered with many orange dots.

Malina

The disease is caused by a pathogen that lives only on raspberries. With high humidity in May, raspberry leaves become covered with red-brown swellings. Gray ulcers with a red border form on the shoots.

In autumn, a dark coating of fungal spores appears on the back of the leaves. Due to rust, the yield decreases and the bushes dry out.

Gooseberry

Rust fungi on gooseberries cause 2 types of disease: goblet rust and columnar rust.

The causative agent of the goblet variety overwinters on sedge and in the spring moves to gooseberry bushes. Convex yellow spots appear on the outside of the leaf, and tubercles with spores appear on the bottom. On diseased bushes, leaves dry and berries fall off.

Signs of columnar rust are similar to goblet rust. The difference is that fungal spores form not on sedge, but on cedar.

strawberries

Rust on strawberries appears in early spring. The appearance of infection is indicated by the formation of one or several red-violet spots on the leaves. Gradually they become larger and change color to light brown or rusty brown. Then the leaves dry out.

With severe infection, signs of the disease are visible on the stems and stolons. Rust disrupts photosynthesis and the supply of nutrients, which impairs the taste of the berries and reduces yield.

Carrots

In conditions of high humidity, yellow-brown spots appear on the tops. Subsequently, they grow, and the leaves and petioles begin to turn brown and dry out. In diseased carrots, the roots grow small and wrinkled.

Luke

Infection occurs in rainy weather. First, groups of small rusty swellings form on the feathers. They contain fungal spores.

Gradually, these pads turn black, the leaves dry out early, and the bulbs become smaller and lose their presentation.

Garlic

Garlic is affected by 3 types of rust fungi. All of them develop on the above-ground parts - leaves and stems. At the initial stage, they are covered with raised yellow spots.

Then red-brown tubercles appear on them. These are summer fungal spores that have formed. In the next stage, these places turn black - overwintering spores develop in them.

Houseplants

Rust affects indoor plants. A common sign of the disease is the formation of light yellow spots on the upper part of the leaves.

Oval rusty pads appear on the leaves below. Sometimes they appear on stems and petioles.

At a later stage, the spots increase, forming red stripes. Due to strong evaporation of moisture, the leaves begin to turn yellow, wither and fall off. Ripe spores from burst swellings spread through the air and infect neighboring plants if control measures are not taken in time.

Rust control products

Chemical and biological drugs

Bordeaux mixture

A popular and time-tested fungicide. For early spring treatment on swelling buds and for spraying in late autumn, prepare a 3% solution. During the summer, plants are treated with a 1% solution.

Abiga Peak

Broad-spectrum fungicide. It contains copper, so it acts similarly to copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture.

To spray plants, 40–50 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water. Carry out 2-3 treatments with an interval of 10-14 days.

Topaz

Fast-acting systemic fungicide for the prevention and treatment of rust. The dosage of the drug to combat rust on trees, berry bushes, and vegetable crops is 2 g per 10 liters of water, for flowers – 3–4 g per 10 liters of water.

Strobe

Effective for both prevention and control of existing infection.

For fruit and vegetable crops, the consumption of the drug is 2 g per 10 liters of water, for flowers – 5 g per 10 liters. Strobi is used alternately with other fungicides. In total, it is used no more than 3 times per season.

Hom

Moderately toxic fungicide, safe for humans and animals. Compatible with other drugs. To prepare the solution, 30 g of powder is diluted in 10 liters of water.

Fitosporin

Biological fungicide. It is used to treat soil, seeds, and plants throughout the growing season.

For indoor and garden flowers, the dosage for prevention is 0.5 tsp. powder per 2 liters of water, for diseased plants - 0.5 tsp. drug per 1 liter of water. For spraying fruit, vegetable crops and berry bushes on a leaf: 5–6 g per 10 l of water or 3 tsp of concentrate per 10 l of water.

Traditional methods

Home methods are used for preventive purposes. They are safe and effective when used regularly.

• Dilute 1 part of the serum with 10 parts of water and spray on the leaves. This treatment protects against fungi and provides additional nutrition.
• Pour 1 part rotted cow manure into 3 parts water. Leave for 3 days, strain and spray on ornamental plants in the evening.
• 10 tablets of hydrogen peroxide, 5 g of boric acid. Boric acid is first diluted in a glass of hot water. Peroxide tablets are crushed and dissolved in a small amount of cold water. Afterwards, all components are mixed with 10 liters of water and sprayed on the plants.

Prevention

To prevent rust it is important:

• plant plants in places with good ventilation and protection from cold winds;
• do not place crops that may develop rust next to plants that are intermediate hosts of fungi;
• do not allow the soil to become waterlogged;
• apply a competent feeding scheme - without excess nitrogen and a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium;
• carry out preventive spraying of plants with fungicides in early spring;
• when propagating, use planting material only from healthy mother plants;
• trim the affected parts: branches, shoots and remove diseased leaves and pine needles from the area;
• whiten the trunks of fruit trees with slaked lime with the addition of copper-containing preparations.

Rust is an insidious disease that is not easy to get rid of. After localizing foci of infection for several years, perennial trees and shrubs are treated with fungicides to avoid relapse of the disease.

You will learn more about rust on different plants and how to combat it from the video.

Rust is a disease in which living plant tissues, mainly leaves, are affected by fungi of the Heterobasidiomycetes subclass. Rustworms do not feed on dead organic matter, so after sucking the juices from one plant, they move on to the next. Often, rust is first detected on the leaves of crops; if appropriate measures are not taken in time, this disease can destroy the entire plant.

This fungus is so tenacious that it does not die when carried by air or insects over long distances.

The number of spores ripening at the same time reaches several tens of billions. For these reasons, the area covered by rust fungi is expanding at an incredible rate, and outbreaks of the disease are breaking out in the most unexpected places.

Appearance of the affected plant

A wide variety of plants can be affected by rust, from wild plants to agricultural crops, for example:

• cereals,
• industrial crops,
• ornamental plants,
• forest tree and shrub species,
• meadow and field grasses.

A characteristic sign of the disease is clusters of orange or brown spores on the underside of the leaf and yellow oval or round spots on the top. Soon the spots turn into stripes, the leaves turn yellow, then brown or black, dry out and fall off. This happens due to metabolic and water balance disorders, and a decrease in the energy of photosynthetic processes.

If you find various orange-yellow pustules on the leaves, know that after a while they will crack and spores will spill out of them, which are popularly called rusty powder.

So, in advanced cases, the leaves and other parts of the plant (shoots, buds and flowers) infected with rust die. Accordingly, winter hardiness and yield, the quality of fruits, berries or vegetables are significantly reduced. All grain crops affected by rust lose the baking properties of the grain.

Reasons for appearance

Rust disease is dangerous because it can spread through water, wind, and seeds. Having landed on a plant, the fungus destroys it from the inside. Taking away nutrients, it literally makes breathing of stems and leaves impossible.

Flowers at increased risk of rust infection include peonies and lupins, roses and phlox, irises and lilies of the valley, and plants.

The development of the disease is facilitated by the following factors:

• prolonged cool weather accompanied by rain or abundant watering;
• thickened plantings (this interferes with the timely drying and ventilation of plants);
• application of excess amounts of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Types of disease

Let's look at the manifestation of rust disease using the example of some garden flowers.

• Irises. Their leaves are severely affected by rust, caused by Puccinia iridis. A huge number of brown bubbles cover the surface. The leaves quickly turn yellow and dry out. By autumn, black stripes form on the dead parts, indicating that the fungus has gone into hibernation and not disappeared.

• Clove plants. At the beginning of summer, leaves and stems infected with the pathogen Uromyces caryophyllus become covered with brown pustules. After they have matured and burst, the plant is depressed and the leaves dry out. In autumn, the bubbles take on a dark brown tint - this is a sign that the mushroom has fallen asleep.
• Bulbous plants. Leaves infected with the rust pathogen Uromyces scillarum initially show small, colorless areas that turn yellow over time. Then brownish spores appear on the leaves and even on the scales. The fate of the leaves is the same as that of irises. However, the plant itself slows down in growth and stops blooming luxuriantly.
• Compositae. The spores of this fungus, Coleosporium solidaginis, are located on the lower surface of the leaves. The affected parts soon die. In autumn, the harmful fungus overwinters in flat orange pustules.

• Lilies of the valley. Yellow round or oblong spots appear on the leaves of this flower infected with the Puccinia fungus. On the reverse side, under these spots, whitish pustules of a cylindrical shape and with inwardly curved edges develop over time.
• Cruciferous. All above-ground parts of plants of this family are damaged by white rust, its causative agent is the fungus Albugo candidae. A large number of white spores swell and bend the pads, causing the leaves to curl and die.

Fighting methods

Rust on the leaves of garden flowers (roses, hollyhocks, hydrangeas, lilies, lilies of the valley, irises, hyacinths, tulips, carnations, asters, chrysanthemums, gillyflower, gladioli, peonies) is a contagious disease that can and should be combated. There are many folk and chemical ways to destroy rust fungus.

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Folk remedies

• 1 tablespoon of soda, 1 teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent, 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil, 1 aspirin tablet, 4.5 liters of water. Mix all components and spray the plants once every 10 days.

Soda
Liquid dish soap

Vegetable oil
Aspirin

• Pour fresh manure (1/3 of a bucket) with water and leave for three days, stirring it from time to time. Filter using a strong cloth, then dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10. Spray plants only in the evening to prevent sunburn on the leaves. For a new treatment, it is necessary to prepare a fresh infusion.

Chemicals (fungicides)

In the fight against rust, 1- and 2% solutions of multifunctional contact and contact-local sulfur- and copper-containing preparations are most successfully used, including:

• Flint Star;
• "Colloidal sulfur" (cumulus);
• "Bordeaux mixture";
• "Oxychom";
• "Falcon";
• "Coronet";
• "Copper oxychloride."

In rainy weather, during treatment with chemicals, you need to add so-called green soap or adhesive to the prepared solution. Its function is to fix the fungicide on the surface of the leaves.

The fight against powdery mildew (ashtray), a widespread and dangerous disease for many plants, must...

Prevention

The following preventive measures are the best way to combat leaf rust.

• When watering, make sure that water does not get on the leaves.
• As soon as you find infected areas on the plant: leaves or branches, destroy them immediately or bury them deeper into the soil.

• Get rid of intermediate rust hosts, isolate crops or plantings from diseased plants.
• In autumn, it is imperative to remove fallen leaves and fruits, and broken shoots.
• Before starting sowing, deeply plow the soil to destroy harmful spores overwintering in it.
• Clean, sort, treat seeds with fungicides (this is especially useful for preventing rust on sunflower, flax and sugar beets).


• Once the leaves have blossomed, repeat spraying with special chemicals twice at an interval of two weeks. This way you can prevent rust of fruit bushes (gooseberries and currants) and trees (apple and pear), as well as conifers: pine and spruce.
• Separate varieties that are resistant to different types of rust fungi.
• Plant bushes with a dense crown along the perimeter of the site to eliminate the possibility of spreading infected spores from a neighboring site or from a nearby forest.
• You should not purchase land near pine forests.
• Weed regularly, as they can carry rust.

Rust is a very serious disease. In order not to start it, inspect the plants more often, because a disease detected at an early stage is much easier to cure. Under no circumstances hesitate to take countermeasures – “later” it may be too late. And most importantly, remember about preventive procedures to protect your garden from harmful microorganisms and not use chemicals.