How to prepare humus in the garden or dacha using accelerated technology. Do-it-yourself natural fertilizers at home

Sawdust, like other waste from sawing wood, is a good material for making fertilizers and compost.

However, errors in the process that are made out of ignorance, as well as incorrect use of ready-made fertilizer, can not only cause harm to plantings, But change soil characteristics, making it unsuitable for certain plants.

• why the earth needs fertilizers;
• how sawdust turns into compost;
• how to make compost from wood waste and droppings or manure;
• how to determine the readiness of humus;
• which sawdust is best suited for producing humus;

As plants grow, their roots pulled out of the ground nutrients and various minerals in the form of aqueous solutions.

These substances are concentrated in the upper (fertile) layer, consisting of:

• clay;
• sand;
• humus (humus).

During irrigation, water soaks upper layer soil and, mixing with these substances, forms an aqueous solution. The more intense the growth of roots and other parts of the plant, the it draws more water from the ground and an aqueous solution of nutrients and minerals.

Gradually, the concentration of nutrients and substances necessary for growth in the soil drops and the plant no longer receives them adequately. Because of this:

• growth rate decreases;
• immunity decreases and vulnerability to diseases and pests increases;
• The quantity of fruits decreases and their quality decreases.

In nature, consumption by plants useful substances compensated the formation of humus from various organic matter:

• dead roots, leaves and branches;
• excrement of birds and animals;
• corpses of various living creatures.

In gardens and orchards, this method of restoring the fertile qualities of the soil is not applicable, so the soil you need to add special compounds, which contain nutrients and substances necessary for plant development.

By saturating the top layer of soil, they increase its fertility, supplying the roots of plants with the necessary nutrition and building material.

Humus production

The transformation of sawdust into humus is natural result of the work of various bacteria, which break down cellulose into simple organic matter, and also perform many other actions.

Therefore, the speed of obtaining humus, as well as its quality, directly depend on the conditions created for these bacteria.

In addition, very the composition of the source material is important– processing wood waste alone allows bacteria to turn it into a good nutrient, but will not supply the soil with the substances and microelements necessary for plant growth.

The process of producing fertilizer from sawdust begins when the following conditions are met:

• positive temperature and sufficient humidity;
• oxygen availability;
• presence of a minimum number of bacteria.

For the vital activity of bifidobacteria, which break down cellulose into glucose and other substances, nitrogen needed, which they absorb from the air and earth. The nitrogen contained in the air is not enough for the active activity of bacteria, so their activity is low.

You can increase it by adding:

• urea;
• land;
• droppings or manure.

During the activity of bacteria, a lot is released carbon dioxide, so the process of turning compost into humus should only take place outdoors.

In addition, bacteria that turn sawdust into humus emit a lot of heat, so the process doesn't stop even at sub-zero temperatures.

However, as the temperature drops, the bacteria living in the outer layer of the compost heap reduce their speed of work, so the rotting process occurs less evenly.

But the high temperature inside the pile allows bacteria to transform material in the outer layers of the pile.

In addition to processed cellulose and other organic matter, the compost should also contain inorganic substances, primarily calcium and phosphorus.

Therefore, to obtain high-quality balanced humus, it is necessary to add slaked lime and other minerals to the compost.

During the life of bacteria, they mix as much as possible with humus and form compounds that are optimal for plant nutrition.

How to make rotted sawdust quickly?

For making compost free space is needed separated from the garden " sanitary zone» 5–7 meters in size.

Despite the fact that you can simply dump all the materials in a heap and leave them to rot, many gardeners and gardeners prefer neat boxes, which prevent compost from spilling.

How to compost?

As such a box can be used ditches, platforms and any containers.

Laying compost in holes and ditches is most effective if a variety of plants are planted above them.

In this case, the high temperature created by the bacteria will allow seedlings or seeds to be planted 3-6 weeks earlier, which will the harvest will be earlier. In addition, a slight heating of the earth will have a beneficial effect on the development of the root system.

Depending on the type of wood, natural decay in such conditions is 1–3 years, and the temperature rise in compost is 1-5 degrees.

Adding droppings or manure to sawdust reduces rotting time up to 6–10 months, and the addition of drugs that accelerate the proliferation of bifidobacteria reduces the period to 3–5 months.

At the same time, the temperature of the compost rises to a level of 40–60 degrees even when the air temperature drops to zero or slight frost.

More details about this method of obtaining humus, as well as compensation negative influence on the basis, you can read in the article about.

To obtain humus from compost You can use any suitable container made from materials resistant to bifidobacteria and light acids. Easiest to use plastic containers suitable size.

If you only have metal barrel or a box then it can be covered with roofing felt, but this will negatively affect the bacteria in the outer layer.

Wood is good for making a compost bin. Although it does not last long (5–15 years), it does not disturb the microclimate in the compost heap.

A wooden box can be made from boards or bars, or from old doors.

Sometimes a box is even made from disassembled cabinets ( chipboards), but the phenols they contain negatively affect the microflora of the outer layers of the heap.

In such boxes, the rotting process does not stop, but becomes a little more uneven.

If the rotting time is observed, the humus from it is in no way inferior to any other, therefore the only drawback– you need to wait 1–2 weeks longer.

The compost box can be of any shape, but it is important to remember that the higher the height of the pile in it, the greater the pressure on the walls.

It's easier to make a box bigger size in length and width, using for it thin bars and boards, than to fence a powerful structure that can withstand the pressure of a large heap.

After all, the task of such a box is prevent contents from spilling over the surrounding area.

It is not necessary to make the walls of the box completely closed; it is quite acceptable to make them in the form of a lattice with a cell height of 3–10 cm (depending on the composition of the compost - for sawdust no more than 3 cm, for a mixture of sawdust and excrement up to 10 cm). The length of the cells can be any.

If there is no box, or you don't want to do it, you can pile the compost directly on the ground.

At the same time, you must understand that the area under the heap will receive too large a dose of nutrients and minerals, and the soil on it will become acidic.

Therefore, even on next year It is not advisable to plant anything there.

After complete rotting of the compost, such an area should be sprinkled with ash and slaked lime or dolomite flour, then plow it so that the soil can absorb nutrients, and after a year it can be used for planting.

Therefore, the area under compost heap you need to choose very carefully- if possible, close to the planting site and so as not to damage the plants.

After all, even at a distance of 2–3 meters from the edge of the heap, the concentration of acids, nutrients and minerals will be dangerous for plants.

Methods for obtaining humus

Exists 8 composition combinations to obtain humus from wood waste, which differ both in the components used and in the final result:

• clean sawdust;
• treated with urea;
• a mixture of any parts of plants;
• with kitchen waste;
• with manure/compost;
• with the addition of cesspool contents;
• from wood waste, manure/compost and mineral additives;
• using drugs that accelerate the proliferation of bifidobacteria.

First way simplest, but also the longest.

Wood waste is piled up and watered to increase its moisture content.

Sometimes the waste is soaked for 1–2 hours before being piled, but this is only justified for small volumes.

The time it takes for such a heap to rot depends on:

• wood species;
• air temperature;
• composition of the earth beneath it.

Soft deciduous trees rot in 10–15 months, and coniferous trees in 2–3 years. Every 2 weeks it is necessary check the humidity and temperature of the pile, sticking his hand into it.

If the pile is dry or cold, then it needs to be watered. If it feels wet to the touch, then there is too much water in it, so the pile needs to be stirred to dry, then raked again.

You can speed up the process of converting compost from wood waste into humus by treating it with urea.

To do this, urea is dissolved in water and This solution is poured over the pile. The urea solution fills the wood with nitrogen, which is necessary for bacteria for normal existence, so the rate of their reproduction, as well as their work efficiency, increases noticeably.

Both types of humus, obtained from the same sawdust, contain only good nutrients, so together with them microelements also need to be added. Otherwise, they will only be effective as top dressing on undepleted soils.

In addition to waste from sawing wood, you can make compost from any parts of plants. For example, in the fall you collect leaves and rake them, then form a pile by laying sawdust and leaves in layers.

If you trimmed trees, then the cut branches grind using special equipment, which we talked about in this.

Twigs and branches big size will rot for decades, and bacteria will process the shredded wood as quickly as sawdust.

Remember, diseased or pest-infested leaves and branches should not be added to the compost. Such waste is needed pile up and then burn.

After all, bacteria that process wood will not be able to kill pathogens or pests, so humus from contaminated materials will pose a threat to your plantings.

In addition to waste from the garden or vegetable garden, you can use it to obtain humus and any kitchen scraps with the exception of meat.

They can be either fresh or sour or moldy, the only condition is that all waste must be crushed , otherwise, the process of decay will last for several years.

A mixture of sawdust and litter or manure is obtained in cowsheds, pigsties and other places where animals are kept. The most popular is a mixture of sawdust with chicken droppings or manure.

Animal and bird excrement not only fills the compost with nitrogen, but also are a source of many microelements necessary for normal plant growth.

This compost rots in 8–12 months.

If you add drugs that accelerate the proliferation of bifidobacteria, then humus will be ready in 4-6 months.

In addition, such humus is the most balanced and suitable for use on any soil for any plants.

Along with droppings or manure, you can also pour the contents of cesspools and outdoor toilets into the compost heap.

The only condition is that they The home sewer should not come out, After all, water containing shampoos and washing powders is poured into it, and such chemistry negatively affects both the soil and plantings.

To create a proper pile, first lay a layer of sawdust 10 cm thick, then water it with the contents of the cesspools (1 bucket per 2–10 m2) and lay a new layer of sawdust.

The height of the heap is chosen based on convenience and total volume.

Signs of completion of decay are:

• completely absent smell of excrement;
• loose structure, similar to loosened sandy soil;
• reducing the temperature to street temperature both outside and inside the heap.

If you have acidic soil on your site, and plants like less acidic or alkaline soil, then when adding a compost heap, sprinkle it with slaked lime or dolomite flour... Ready-made humus can also be applied during spring plowing, but this method is less effective because the soil will not have time to become saturated with humus and the plants will not receive balanced nutrition.

You can also use compounds that have not had time to rot.

If they are treated with agents that accelerate the growth of bacteria, then such compost can be added after collecting green manure, during autumn plowing.

Over the winter, the sawdust and other components will completely rot and mix with the soil.

Therefore, in the spring the plants will receive the most balanced nutrition.

Fresh compost is added to the soil only in three cases:

• its composition ensures rapid decay and is treated with drugs that accelerate the growth of bacteria;
• the field is left fallow;
• compost is used for heating planting material in holes and grooves.

In all other cases, fresh compost will reduce plant productivity and can make the land unusable.

In areas where the soil around trees is not dug up or is dug up very rarely, ready-made humus laid out around the trunk and watered generously.

Nutrients and microelements from humus, together with water, penetrate the soil and saturate it, due to which the tree grows faster and bears fruit better.

The same method is used to apply fertilizers to fields planted with currants, raspberries and other bushes.

Video on the topic

Watch a video on how to prepare fertilizer from sawdust:

Conclusion

Wood sawdust – good material to obtain humus. After reading the article, you learned:

• which sawdust is best suited for producing humus;
• how long does the rotting process take?
• how this process is affected by chicken manure and the excrement of other birds and animals;
• how can you quickly get good humus;
• how to apply humus correctly.

In contact with

Every gardener keeps a compost heap near his garden. There is no need to simply throw away your vegetable waste as it can be used to make organic compost. The main components for its preparation are under your feet. Any vegetation can be used here. You can even get humus from leaves.

How to use a gasoline sprayer is indicated in this

What is it and what is its composition

Humus is an important element of the soil, which allows you to determine its fertility. It is formed during the life activity of microorganisms that are found in the soil, decomposing complex organic remains of plants and animals into simple components. These parts will be absorbed by plants planted in this soil.

In addition to all that has been said, organic fertilizers have a positive effect on flood and air feeding crops Humus is also directly involved in the development of bacteria and microorganisms that live in symbiosis with the root system of plants. In this way, vegetable crops will be able to obtain available nutrients. A lot of humus is contained in chicken, cow and. Once it decomposes, it becomes a valuable fertilizer for vegetable plants.

How ammonium nitrate fertilizer is used. specified in this

The video explains how to prepare humus at the dacha using accelerated technology:

Impact

For the normal development of a plant, it needs to constantly receive micro- and macroelements. When planting a plant in sandy soil These elements are contained there in small quantities, since they are constantly washed away by the flow of water. When organic fertilizer is introduced into such soil, it is possible to glue the soil particles together, on which chemical components useful for nutrition will remain.

However, one undeniable advantage can be highlighted - the ability to retain moisture at the roots of the plant and thus perform reliable protection from summer drought and autumn frosts. This product can be used instead of peat as a soil acidifier.

The video talks about humus as a fertilizer:

The pile should be compacted and covered with film. In this way, potassium loss is prevented.
To preserve its valuable properties after winter frosts, cover the pile with manure with a layer of earth, the thickness of which is 15 cm. In the spring, remove the top soil and leave the film.

How to use wireworm remedies for sowing potatoes is indicated

The process of preparing manure is not difficult, but it requires special attention and compliance with certain actions. You need to choose a suitable recipe taking into account what ingredients you have for cooking. There are no particular differences in terms of the impact from the presented types of manure. All of them have a very beneficial effect on vegetable crops, promoting rapid development and strengthening the root system.

A large number of people on our planet have dachas or suburban areas. Especially, those who have large families or simply like to enjoy nature and silence suffer from this “disease”. The reason for buying such a place is not only privacy and clean air, but also the environmental friendliness of products, vegetables and berries, which are usually grown in such conditions and circumstances. Of course, all this is due to the fact that they want to give their loved ones and themselves the freshest and most natural things, which is why our mothers and grandmothers are so eager to go to the dacha so that later they will have something to treat their young people. But not every such plot can boast of fertile land, so it needs to be fed, but with what?

Special stores are full of all kinds of fertilizers and fertilizers for plants of this type. But no one can say how natural and ecological they are. Therefore, you should not, having bought a bag of store-bought fertilizer, hope that it will not harm your plant, and subsequently you. What is the way out of this difficult situation? And the simplest one! If a natural product of this type cannot be bought in a store, then it needs to be prepared!

What kind of fertilizer can you prepare yourself?

The most popular, effective and budget-friendly fertilizer that you can easily make with your own hands is manure. Indeed, according to reviews from ardent summer residents, compost is indispensable for personal plot. Those whose farms are located close to some kind of animal farm are especially lucky. In this case, humus can be obtained regularly and in large quantities, unless, of course, the farm owners themselves need it. There are at least two types of manure humus: fresh and old. Both are very suitable for different crops. Fresh compost is better for cabbage or cucumbers, but old compost is better for everything else.

With the help of such a natural and safe fertilizer, you can ensure that everything in your garden grows quickly and efficiently! After all, it is in manure that all the most necessary and necessary elements, which are needed for the full development of these crops!
Of course, it may seem that the lack of humus may impair the growth of your beautiful plants, but it doesn't matter. Why? Because even a small and insignificant presence of humus in the fertilizer will significantly speed up the processes; you simply need to mix the manure with straw, wood or sawdust.

Making compost at home

Naturally, preparing such a simple fertilizer will not be difficult, but you need to keep in mind a few rules, or rather recommendations.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there will be a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we would like to recommend plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

• Firstly, it’s no secret that horse droppings are the most productive and profitable in this regard. Why? Because it contains significantly more of those important elements for growth vegetable crops, namely: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Therefore, if you want to bring the effectiveness of regular chicken or cow compost closer to horse compost, then you need to use all these substances additionally.
• Secondly, horse manure is more flammable, so you should not use it on those beds that are exposed to strong and intense sunlight.
• Thirdly, the same horse compost has a lower moisture saturation, so for planting areas that have sufficient access to water, it fits better Total.

Compost from the final waste products of rabbits

Thus, we see that all manures and humus are good in their own way if they are used correctly, taking into account their main advantages.
As for the dosage, there are also some things to consider. If manure is diluted with straw or ash, then it needs to be used more than pure compost.

How to get high-quality vermicompost?

Methods for preparing homemade fertilizer

As you know, any manure fertilizer takes time, so it needs to be prepared in advance.

It is necessary to take into account that manure fertilizers can be different. For example, you can make humus from any organic things: fallen leaves, food waste, grass clippings, and so on. In this case, you need to collect this fertilizer material for a long time, 2 or three years. All these substances are put in a certain place and left there for subsequent rotting. This heap can be periodically watered with water or stirred, which will double the process of humus and decomposition of these waste products.

The second option is animal manure: chickens, cows, horses, and so on. In this case, you don’t have to wait long for it to be ripe for proper consumption. It is enough at the beginning of summer, or in the spring, to collect the necessary feces and put them in a barrel or any other large vessel or container. After this, place it in the sun for several weeks. Then you can mix it, or not, with other substances: straw, sawdust, wood. It is worth noting that mixed manure is much better to use and more enjoyable than pure manure for obvious reasons.

Another compost option, the third one, is ash. It does not require special preparation, it just needs to be collected throughout the year. Moreover, many people use stoves or fireplaces to heat their homes. In this case, ash collection is greatly simplified.

How and where to place a compost heap on your site

Of course, the position of such a pile will not affect the quality of the manure in any way, but it can make a lot of things easier that are associated with it. For example, a pile located far from the beds will force you to run from it to the desired place. This is often the reason for poor-quality and unfair distribution of fertilizer material. Therefore, we can conclude that the heap should be located as close as possible to the planting areas.
How to arrange a favorable place for such a “dirty” business? Very simple, actually. You can use any box for this, metal or wood. This is where you will store all organic waste: weeds, plant tops, food waste, leaves, grass and much more. If there is no such box, then you can make one. To do this, you need to have several old, perhaps ugly, boards and a small number of nails in the house. Any responsible and skillful owner will be able to make such a thing in no time!

It is also worth remembering that when the heap is almost rotten, it exudes bad smell. Therefore, if there are rest areas on your site, then it is better to place the pile away from them.

Of course, if we take into account the fact that any rotting occurs faster with sufficient high temperature, then you need to take into account the intensity of solar heat entering the waste zone. Naturally, for the winter it is worth covering it with straw and polyethylene so that snow does not fall and the pile does not freeze too much.

If you follow these simple and basic rules for preparing such fertilizers, you can achieve unprecedented results. You will have not just a vegetable garden, but entire plantations, which will delight not only your eyes, but also the bellies of your loved ones! After all, what could be better when your loved ones can afford, thanks to you, to eat clean, ecological and natural products. Therefore, it is not surprising that all summer residents are famous for their excellent health, always positive attitude and fighting spirit!

And a little about the author’s secrets

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

• inability to move easily and comfortably;
• discomfort when going up and down stairs;
• unpleasant crunching, clicking not of your own accord;
• pain during or after exercise;

One day, a friend of mine purchased a plot of land on a farm near Rostov. Not only was this one of the islands of surviving meter-thick black soil, but it turned out that the area occupied the site of the ancient stables of some Cossack regiment: neighbors sometimes removed layers of ancient manure directly from the garden, dried them and heated the stoves as if with peat. I remember his despair about the garden: “I planted it like a white man, began to clean up - I cursed everything I remembered! Imagine, I’m going to pick up beets with a bucket - I can’t fit more than one in the bucket! Carry onions - five onions in a bucket! I didn’t weed the potatoes, the weeds were a meter long, I was so tired of carrying them! This is a punishment, not a garden!” We would like such a punishment...

At the beginning of the century, humus was studied in detail by scientists of the anthroposophical school of Rudolf Steiner in Germany. They believed that every substance carries a certain energy - a “shape-forming force”. This force remains even after the transformation of substances. Something like the “mind of molecules”. Force biological substances very big. Therefore, humus - a concentrate of living substances - is the most powerful stimulant of life. This is what the anthroposophists thought. And they were right about almost everything.

Their experiments are amazingly beautiful. They learned to direct the ripening of humus using decoctions of various herbs. Established qualitative differences different types humus and compost. It has been proven that the quality of humus is directly related to the quality of animal feed. And quality, this very “strength” of the harvest, powerfully affects the health and strength of animals and humans. So, in closed system“plants – animals – humans”, you can improve the health and quality of everyone to an ideal state. This is how the biodynamic farming system came into being.

For the “organist,” humus is the basis of well-being. They animate him and treat him very reverently: “no humus, no harvest.” Caring for humus and communicating with it is the most important of all work. Preparing humus and compost is an art and a sacred practice. The smell of mature humus is one of the most pleasant for the “organist”. Scattering and throwing away organic matter is the same as throwing away bread for a Russian peasant. Because high-quality humus, a handful per plant, can double the yield and dramatically improve the quality of vegetables.

Humus – alive in the most correct sense of the word. This is a community of living organisms that decompose organic matter for plants. Our roommates symbionts. Assistants. Lapushki. Take a closer look at the microscope: look, they are trying. It is not difficult to take care of them: the food is already there. But you need to provide moisture and air. And feed after feed - discord. And the conditions may be such that instead of humus, you get harmful sour “silage”. Let's consider, how to make healthy humus.

What can you compost? First of all - any manure. If it is too liquid, it needs to be dried for a couple of days and then mixed with straw, grass, sawdust, leaves, simply layered. Bird droppings can be scattered on a compost heap thin layer: It's too concentrated. It is better to infuse it in water for liquid fertilizing, 1 part to 40–50 parts of water.

Mown grass, straw, leaves, sawdust, husks, food and cooking leftovers, spoiled food, waste from meat and fisheries - everything will turn into compost over the summer if you put it in layers and cover each layer with earth.

There is no need to throw fats, wool and bones into the compost heap: they do not rot for 3–4 years. And, of course, you can’t throw synthetics into the compost. Wood, chips, branches - should be crushed and placed at the bottom of the pile: before they rot, they will work as drainage.

How to arrange the right pile. First of all - don't make holes. With our loams and rains, water accumulates in depressions. And without air, putrefactive microbes freeze and “fermentation-fermentation” microbes multiply - this is how we make silage and ferment cabbage. This stinky silage is bad for the plants!

Therefore, find a place that is not flooded. Be sure to be in the shade, otherwise you will have to water the pile often. Fence 2–4 square meters. meters with walls made of boards, iron, slate, a meter high. Throw a layer of straw, sawdust, and leaves at the bottom: they form a layer that separates the compost from the ground, and it will be easy to pick it up with a pitchfork. It's even better if the heap is arranged on concrete surface: It is more convenient to work in all respects. Yes, and you will have to transport humus in a wheelbarrow - paths are needed.

“Cold” compost heap.

There can be three walls - without the front. Or maybe four, but the front one must be removable: the humus has to be shoveled and picked up. The design is completed by a sheet of film, slate or roofing felt covering the compost on top: rain should not wash away the nutrients. At the same time, the “lid” will reduce the evaporation of moisture. And the more stable the humidity, the better. If the pile is covered and in the shade, there is virtually no need to water it in the summer. And lastly: if you decide to make permanent walls of brick or concrete, make sure that excess water can flow out from below when it rains.

How to make compost mature. If the organic layer is moist and protected from drying out, it, in general, ripens normally on its own. But still…

First. If freshly cut grass, especially damp from dew or rain, is piled in a layer thicker than half a meter, it can become very compacted, and the aforementioned “silage” will begin. Therefore, it is better to wither the grass for a day. Or alternate with layers of something drier. But microbes must have air! In general, the layer of material should not be more than a meter.

“Hot” compost heap.

Second. You can double the speed of ripening if you scatter a couple of shovels of soil on each new layer of organic matter: bacteria will be removed. There is rotten, green water left - pour it on the heap: food for microbes.

Third. You can make mature compost in a month. For this purpose it is used hot composting. In this case, the volume of organic matter should be close to cubic (optimally -1–1.2 m in height). There should be air gaps in the walls (preferably mesh walls). There should be an equally empty volume nearby for transferring compost. The volume is filled in layers, flavored with ready-made compost or soil, and if there is a lack of moisture, the layers are watered. Here you need to know the properties different materials: Depending on the nitrogen or carbon content, they behave differently. Nitrogenous – grains, seeds, bread and flour products, food waste, rotting fruits and vegetables, as well as manure and feces - this is the “furnace”: their rotting heats up the heap. A hot pile matures an order of magnitude faster. But these “stokers” contain little air and are too acidic. That's why they are sandwiched carbonaceous materials: straw, leaves, grass, sawdust, shredded cardboard, paper. They are airy, they hardly heat up themselves, and when they rot, on the contrary, they consume nitrogen. If you take equal parts of both, the balance is normal. And this mixture heats up quickly. But after 4-6 days the heat in the center of the heap exceeds 70° C, and the oxygen runs out - the microbes begin to die. If the pile is covered with film, then in three to four days. Here you take a pitchfork and turn over the compost to a free place. And so - four times. Troublesome. But by June you can fill the beds with a layer of fresh compost. And get three servings over the summer. Western farmers often compost this way.

The conclusions are: if the heap contains mainly nitrogenous materials, the finished compost should be sprinkled with ash, chalk or lime - deoxidized. If only carbonaceous, add nitrogen: urea (urea) or saltpeter per kilogram per cubic meter - it will rot faster and retain nutritional value.

Mature compost(humus) is easy to find out. It becomes dark and monotonous: the differences between the different components almost disappear. But the main thing is the smell. All unpleasant odors disappear. Mature compost smells brightly of fresh earth or forest floor. More precisely, the soil smells like compost if it contains organic matter. If it doesn't smell, it's dead land.

Compost tea. One shovel of compost is infused for a week in 20 liters of water. This results in feeding. We do the same with manure or chicken. A very wonderful revitalizing fertilizer! True, if there is humus mulch, such measures are useless - it itself fertilizes and stores moisture.

Let's mention worms. Doctor of Medical Sciences, physician Anatoly Mikhailovich Igonin dedicated his life to the technology of earthworm breeding. He saw that “…human health is directly related to the health and well-being of earthworms.” And this is not an exaggeration. By passing soil and organic residues through the intestines, the worms create a unique substance - vermicompost. By nutritional value and biological activity it is much more valuable than the best humus or compost. Commercial agronomy primarily destroys worms: they are afraid of dryness, acidity, excess salts and lack of organic matter. Breeding worms, as Igonin suggests, is too troublesome. And under the mulch they will separate themselves. You just need to welcome them and feed them with plant debris. If during the summer a layer of organic matter disappears from the garden bed, this is good: the worms have eaten it. Our job is to add it.

But where can I get it? First of all, just don't throw it away. Secondly, you don’t have it simply because you didn’t set such a goal. You can transport leaves, mow weeds, buy manure, husks, sawdust and other waste. In the West, all organic municipal waste is sold cheaply to farmers. If we want it, it will be so for us. For example, I compost grass from ten acres of meadow and all the garbage from the front garden. The neighbor gives away manure. I also buy from the farm. And that's enough. I concentrate all the power of the site in several beds. And these beds yield incomparably more than the soil, no matter how you plow it or fertilize it. The beds are getting smarter!