How to make a circular saw using a circular saw. How to make a circular saw with your own hands from a hand-held circular saw

For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine is time saving and work safety.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with basic plumbing skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a strong table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.

Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can work with small-sized workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the operator’s safety. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.

You won't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from a metal angle (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastening to come loose.

Electric welding must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

What to make a table for a circular saw from?

The working surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheet. It is permissible to use textolite, plexiglass or moisture-resistant plywood. Galvanized sheet metal is placed on top of the plywood.

The main condition is that the material should not crack from vibrations., have a smooth surface and do not allow deflections under a weight of at least 50 kg. If the tabletop cracks or warps, the circular disk will jam.

Universal homemade table for a circular saw and router. I recommend watching this video

This will lead to injury and damage to the workpiece. The use of popular materials OSB and chipboard is undesirable. These materials are unstable to vibrations and can collapse at the most crucial moment.

There are two options for making a working groove for a circular disk:

1. You can cut a groove.
2. or place two halves of the tabletop at a distance from each other.

Stationary type circular saws are quite expensive on the market. However, if you wish, you can make the model yourself. To do this you will need a standard set of tools. A welding machine is used to install the frame. To fix the saw blade, you will need a drill. Before assembling the device, it should be taken into account that the design of circular saws can vary greatly.

Hand saw model

(stationary) made with your own hands is quite simple. First of all, you need to assemble the table. Metal profiles are used for this. The ends of the workpieces are connected using a welding inverter. The saw blade is directly attached to the holder. A simple stationary circular saw made from a manual one is assembled with a small-width pulley.

In some cases, a casing is used to protect the device. The support for a circular saw is often of the rack type. Modifications with cam quills are very rare. Commutator motors are installed with a power of 3.3 kW. In this case, it is more expedient to make the platform from a steel sheet.

Washing machine devices

It is quite easy to assemble (stationary) with your own hands from a washing machine. A motor is used for this purpose. It is recommended to select a diameter up to 30 cm. The pin is used with a crank drive. Many experts recommend installing guides up to 33 cm long. The working plate is placed on the front of the frame. In this case, the feed mechanism does not need to be installed. To secure the frame, a metal corner is used. The flange is most often installed behind the caliper. At the end of the work, it is important to fix the flywheel.

Modifications with one stop

Very often, specialists assemble a circular saw with their own hands. You can find a wide variety of drawings for designs with one stop. Many of them involve the use of cam rests. Experts first recommend starting assembly with the frame. The legs in this case can be made from wooden blocks.

After installing the working plate, guides are installed. A horizontal shaft must be secured above them. A corner is attached to the edge of the platform, and the casing is rarely used in the design. There are also many models with a power rest. They are large in size. The bearing row is usually installed above the working plate. In some cases, the support is welded near the pin.

Models with multiple stops

With several stops, it is quite difficult to assemble a circular saw with your own hands. The modification drawings indicate the need for a guide pin. Assembly of the model begins with a frame blank. For this purpose, profiles are selected from stainless steel. It is also important to note that the stands can be fixed using a welding inverter.

The work plates are installed last. Sometimes a circular saw (stationary) is made with your own hands with a 3 kW commutator motor. A flywheel is used to adjust the position of the steady rest. In this case, the bed must be fixed on racks. A caliper is used to change the position of the platform.

Drawings of a crank ratchet device

A stationary circular saw is made with a cranked ratchet with your own hands (photo shown below) using a rack and pinion support. In some cases, a feed mechanism is used. First of all, during assembly, it is important to install the lower frame. For this purpose, two stainless steel profiles are selected. To install the bearing row, you will need a welding inverter.

It is also used to connect workbench guides. The pin is installed only with a cross member. It is soldered on the edge of the table. At this stage of assembly it is important to calculate the distance to the saw blade. On average it is 22 cm. A wooden fence is used to protect hands. It is important to fix the guides behind the counter. The steady rest is most often installed behind the flange. In order for the flywheel to rotate freely, a small lining is required. It is fixed behind the guides.

It is also important to note that modifications without a caliper are very common. Their pins are used with gearboxes. To protect your hands, a small shield is installed. The bed is most often used with sharpened ends. The lunette in the design is fixed on the platform. If we consider simple models, then guides can be used from wood. The commutator motor is used for both 3 and 5 kW. The work of assembling the saw ends with the installation of stops.

Dimensions of saws with two steady rests

With two steady rests, it is very easy to assemble a circular saw (stationary) with your own hands. The dimensions of the table in this case depend on the diameter of the saw blade. The width of the platform, as a rule, does not exceed 35 cm. In order to assemble the modification, the bed is first installed. Metal profiles are selected at 3.4 cm. The pins are mainly installed behind the steady rests.

In some cases, the beds are placed on two stops. The quill is used with a worm gear. If we consider large-sized modifications, they use wide racks. It is also important to note that it is more advisable to install the lower block at 56 cm. To adjust the steady rest, a rotary handwheel is used. The saw blade is placed directly behind the caliper.

Modifications of the TS 820 series

You can make a saw of this series yourself. For this purpose, the frame is installed with a width of 34 cm. The corner for the stop is easiest to make from a metal profile. The bearing row is attached to the stand with screws. Many experts advise installing the steady rest last. The guides for the saw are selected at 34 cm.

The easiest way to make a tool rest is from a wide block. The commutator motor is installed on the saw with a power of 3 kW. The gearbox is attached to a stand on the platform. The saw blade is fixed to the drive shaft. For normal operation of the modification, the caliper must be firmly fixed. Barriers can be used to protect your hands.

How to make a model like TS 825?

If you have the tools, you can easily make this stationary circular saw with your own hands. A wide variety of drawings for this design can be found. However, the most common are two-rest circuits. The bearing row in this case is installed behind the cross member. Not a lot of power is selected. The pulley should be installed in the central part of the working platform.

In this case, a feed mechanism is not required. A metal corner is used to fix the plate. Saw guides are used at low heights. For free movement of the steady rest, a flywheel with a rotating mechanism is used. The bottom block must be well protected. It is also important to pay special attention to the installation of the bed. The legs for the structure can be made from ordinary bars. The saw blade itself is placed near the central post.

Assembly of the GKS 190 series device

This circular saw (stationary) is assembled with your own hands only using a 4 kW commutator motor. The bearing row can be installed behind the rack. A small flywheel is used for this purpose. It is also important to note that the pulley is allowed to be used at 5.6 cm. The gearbox is most often installed behind the steady rest. All this is necessary for free rotation of the shaft. In this case, the bed is easiest to make from bars. It is more advisable to select racks of small width.

The flange is usually installed at the edge of the platform. In this case, the drive shaft should not come into contact with the guides. The barrier tape is most often mounted behind the A-pillar. The width of the platform should not exceed 68 cm. The easiest way to install the shield is with screws. However, it must be at a safe distance from the gearbox. Particular attention should be paid to the lower supports. To increase stabilization, it is recommended to use only wide profiles. The height of the caliper in this case should not exceed 30 cm.

Modifications of the GKS 156 series

This circular saw (stationary) is difficult to assemble with your own hands. First of all, it is important to note that a 4 kW motor will be required. In this case, many experts advise using only steel guides. They should be installed behind the front pillar. The tool rest is most often made from a block. It is also important to note that the design will require a wide stop.

It is more appropriate to install the shield near the rear support. The bearing row is mounted together with the stand. At this stage of work, it is important to calculate the exact distance to the saw blade. The minimum gap allowed is 3 cm. The frame is most often used with four legs. To install the guides, a welding inverter is used. The lower block is mounted under the gearbox. It is important to securely fix the rest, and in this case a ratchet is not required.

How to make a model like GKS 144?

The specified circular saw (stationary) is assembled with your own hands on a motor with a power of 2.2 kW, and the bed is selected at 40 cm. The bearing row is fixed in the front part of the stand. It is easiest to use guides that are small in width. It is also important to note that one flywheel will be required to assemble the device. It must be attached to the rotating mechanism. It is more expedient to make the shield from a steel sheet. In this case, a casing is not required. The legs themselves can be installed around the corner. The steady rest for the saw is not very wide. The carrier plate is fixed last.

Assembly of the K-CS 1300 series device

This circular saw (stationary) is quite easy to assemble with your own hands. The bed for the model is used at 34 cm. In this case, the bearing row is installed behind the stand. The saw blade is placed directly after fixing the guides. Particular attention should be paid to the commutator motor. In this case, its power must be at least 4 kW.

The flange is used with a steel cover. It is more advisable to install the hand rest behind the front pillar. For this purpose, two holes are made on the working platform. It is important to fix the steady near the motor. There is no need to install a saw blade guard. The lower block should be immediately selected not of great height. It is more expedient to use the caliper with a roller mechanism.

Modifications of the K-CS 1325 series

The devices of this series are assembled using 3 kW commutator motors. According to experts, it is better to use wooden handholds. It is also important to note that the support should be installed on top of the workpiece. In this case, the ratchet is not installed on the saw. The gearbox is used with one bracket.

Stop for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.

There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular saw is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the site, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligned with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the strip like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Sleds solve only part of the problem. For longitudinal sawing you also need a side stop.

I glued together brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

It grabs the edges with a death grip.

A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from scrap furniture boards.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawing slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to do all this work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.

In the future I will further improve this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will install a removable riving knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I saw, the blade throws wood dust right in my face)
- I’ll finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

Nowadays, homemade saws are quite common. You should know that making a circular saw with your own hands is not difficult. To build such a product you only need to have basic skills in working with metal devices. All manipulations must be performed carefully. It should be noted that such a homemade tool is a useful thing.

For full cutting work, you will need a table with a circular saw, which you can make yourself.

Drawings of a stationary and hand-held circular saw can be seen in Fig. 1 and fig. 2.

It makes sense to make a saw of this type when some of these materials are available: pieces of steel angle, a non-working engine or elements from an angle grinder. If you don’t have an electric motor, you can buy one at a hardware store.

Figure 1. Layout diagram of a stationary circular saw.

A do-it-yourself circular saw can be made when a grinder is available. To complete all the work you will need to prepare the following elements:

• aluminum corner;
• Bulgarian;
• metal pipe or rod;
• nuts;
• strip of metal.

You will also need to additionally make the following products with your own hands:

• sliding stop;
• axial handle.

How to make stops and holes?

The first step is to build a stop and prepare the necessary holes. This design is assembled from small pieces of metal corner. They will be located on two sides of the working element, which in this case will be a disk with teeth used instead of an abrasive wheel. On each side you need to make indentations of approximately 2-5 mm. Horizontal edges should be smoothed at the bottom so that they do not touch the part being cut. The corners will need to be secured with transverse ligaments at the front and back. It is recommended to use bolts and nuts as fasteners. The recess can be made by installing several washers.

Figure 2. Design of a hand-held portable circular saw.

A clamp made of a metal strip should be placed on the body of the device. The clamp tie must be placed at the bottom of the product. You will definitely need to securely fix the tin or steel strip, which folds in half. Then you need to prepare a hole for the rear fastener for a stop, due to which sliding will occur. The stop should be secured to the rear of the fixture. To do this, you need to select a strip of metal with a thickness of 1.2-1.6 mm. By moving the washers, you can get identical gaps between the toothed disk and the side stops.

In the gearbox housing of the product, you will need to drill several recesses with threads for elements for fastening small sizes. First you will need to disassemble the gearbox to determine where the holes can be placed. The recesses are needed so that the axial handle can be secured. If you plan to use an ordinary side handle of an angle grinder, then even a qualified craftsman with relevant experience will not be able to make the correct cut.

Making a handle and rod for adjustment

The axial handle can be constructed from a tube or rod in the form of a horn, which is directed upward. You can also use a narrow transverse bracket. The extreme parts with which it will be attached to the gearbox do not need to be spilled. In these parts, recesses should be prepared for fastening elements. If the ends of the fasteners spill, the handle may bend from the effort during operation.

If the handle has the shape of a horn, then its far side should be splashed in a horizontal plane and a recess should be made under the axis with a margin of 2.5-3 mm. A piece of rod or pipe sticking forward should be inserted into the recesses that are located in the gearbox. The outermost part of the element must be splashed and a recess must be made in it. There should be a distance of approximately 10 cm between the rod and the bracket.

Next you need to take a piece of 3-4 mm aluminum rod. You will need to bend one part of it into a loop, spread it a little and drill a recess for the front bolt for support. By placing washers on the front of the stop, you will need to create a uniform gap width along the entire length of the fixture. If you plan to use a 6 mm rod, you will need to prepare several washers of small thickness.

A thread must be cut on the back of the rod. The element should fit into the recess on the handle. You must first put one nut on it during the assembly process and another one at the end. You will need to loosen and tighten the nuts gradually to be able to adjust the cutting depth. At this stage the tool is ready for use.

Small table saw

You should know that you can easily convert a manual circular saw into a small desktop device with your own hands. To do this, you need to build a frame from a 16-22 mm tube or rod and attach a lever. The lower part of the table should be curved in the direction of the cut, after which the element is attached to the table with self-tapping screws. For the stability of the structure, it is recommended to provide for the installation of slopes.

It is worth noting that such a homemade tool requires a stable table. Its swinging during work can become dangerous. You can use an ordinary kitchen table made of wooden beams and metal profiles.

A T-tube rotating lever should be placed on the cross member. The transverse part of the part is cut into several fragments. When the structure is installed, the elements should be connected with clamps. Using a clamp, you will need to attach the hand tool that was made earlier to the extreme vertical part.

This device can also be used as a cutting tool. You just need to insert an ordinary cutting circle into the grinder. However, in this case, the cut thickness will be less than 75-80 mm. If you plan to process thick wood, you will need a full-fledged homemade circular saw.

How to make a stationary saw?

To build a machine of this type, drawings will be needed. The only difference between a stationary saw and a table saw is the height of the bed.

An important part of the bed is a flat and wide base with a slot for a file. It can be built from plexiglass, chipboard or iron sheet. The thickness of the cover on which the wire is secured in such a design is determined based on the loads. The bed cover must be removable so that all machine components can be easily accessed.

The first component of the structure that you will need to make yourself is the table. It should be covered with a sheet of tin or steel. Wood rubs against wood or plastic, causing a small hole to appear. Therefore, it will not be possible to make a high-quality cut. The transverse ligaments of the table will need to be made from aluminum corner 60-70 mm.

If the bar is sliding, then the table cover must have strictly parallel sides.

The slide can be made from an aluminum angle, which will allow you to slide smoothly along the edge without losing the angle.

Care must be taken that the toothed disc does not protrude more than 1/3 of the diameter above the base of the table, otherwise the tool will be dangerous. If you need to cut a 10 cm block, then the diameter of the disc should be 35 cm or more. To drive the disk you will need an electric motor with a power of at least 1 kW.

First of all, you need to compare the power of the prepared electric motor with your personal needs. For parts 15 cm or more, making a cutting tool yourself is very difficult.

If it is not possible to make a circular saw with your own hands with a high-power electric motor, then you can use a hand-held circular saw, grinder or electric drill.

A cutting round file can be attached to any of these elements. They are small in size and can be used as an electric drive for cutting boards of small thickness. It is recommended to attach such devices to the bottom of the table cover.

A high-quality adjustable stop can be made from a piece of corner 7-8 cm, and its length should be 3.5-4 cm longer than the length of the table. Next, you need to cut the shelf on both sides so that the remainder is equal to the length of the table. The back parts are curved down. In the lower shelves it will be necessary to prepare recesses for the threads of elements for fastening. After this, you should put the stop on the table and fasten it in the desired position with bolts. The stop should be set according to the template, which must first be installed between it and the working element of the device.

Particular attention must be paid to the shaft. It is best to use a ready-made part with space for installing the disk. It can be purchased at any store selling building materials and tools.

Bearings must be used. You can install them yourself. Trunnions must be equipped with covers. These elements help protect the structure from sawdust.

V-belt transmission should be provided. The electric motor can be taken, for example, from an unused washing machine. Capacitors should be paper or oil. Other parts will not be able to withstand the reactive power that will circulate in the circuit.

If you plan to trim parts, then a carriage will come in handy. This element consists of guide bars that are attached to plywood.

Building a circular saw at home is not a complicated process; you just need to prepare all the necessary elements, choose the appropriate type of structure and follow these instructions.

An excellent tool for sawing various lumber at home is a hand-held circular saw. This power tool can cut lumber of various sections at any angle. This tool perfectly cuts sheets of plywood, hardboard or chipboard.

However, the technical capabilities of such a tool can be significantly expanded, which is often necessary when performing repair work, if you make a stationary machine from a circular saw with your own hands.

It is not difficult to carry out such a transformation, and anyone who needs it can make a machine from a circular saw. To do this, you simply need to fix it on the prepared surface in a certain position. In the simplest version, durable construction trestles can be used as an installation site. For long-term use of a circular saw machine, it is better to make a durable, welded metal frame.

Wooden machine from a circular saw

To make such a wooden base, you will need:

• sheet of plywood 8-10 mm thick;
• wooden blocks measuring 40x50 mm;
• universal glue;
• self-tapping screws and bolts with M8 nuts.

A sheet measuring approximately 100x60 cm is cut out of plywood (maybe another). Along the edges of the plywood sheet (along its perimeter), bars are attached using glue and self-tapping screws. Then the tool body is applied to the inside of the sheet, and the places where it is attached to it are marked, as well as the groove for the cutting disk. After that, a groove for the passage of the disk is cut out with a jigsaw (or a router), and holes are drilled for attaching the body. The legs are attached to the side bars using bolts. The height of the circular saw machine is selected from 80 to 90 cm. The body is attached to a previously prepared place on its inner side. The bolts for its fastening must be made flush (not protrude on the surface). The lid must be varnished or painted.

To ensure that the material is cut strictly to size, a guide block is installed parallel to the cutting disc. The block can be attached to the table surface with clamps. The wooden circular saw machine is ready for use.

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Making a metal frame: instructions

A circular saw machine made of metal is much stiffer and stronger than wood and has a longer service life. To make such a bed, you will need the following material and tools:

• a sheet of metal (preferably steel) measuring approximately 1000x500 mm and a thickness of 3 to 5 mm;
• metal corner approximately 45x45 mm;
• M8 bolts and nuts;
• welding machine;
• electric drill;
• Bulgarian;
• clamps.

First of all, prepare a table for the machine from a circular saw. To do this, a metal profile is welded around the perimeter of the metal sheet. In order for it to fit tightly to the sheet, it must be pressed to the surface with clamps. Then, on the back side of the sheet, the attachment points for the housing and the groove for the saw blade are marked. Using an electric drill, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled to mount the housing.

On the front side of the table, the holes are countersunk to install fasteners in a countersunk position.

Using a grinder and a drill, a groove for the disk is cut in the table. To cut the groove carefully, you need to drill holes with a diameter of approximately 10 mm along the edges of the intended groove and cut a groove between these holes with a grinder. The tool body is installed and secured to the prepared place.

Four pieces approximately 800 to 900 mm long are cut from the corner for the table legs. Then the legs are welded to the corners of the table. To give greater rigidity, a corner is welded between the legs at a distance of approximately 100 mm from the floor surface.

To ensure high-quality cutting of the material, it is necessary to install a guide bar parallel to the disk. It is best to make it from a corner. To do this, an even corner is cut along the length of the table, then two guides are welded to it, which should fix the movement of the bar parallel to the cutting disk. You can fasten the bar to the table with clamps or using a welded plate with bolts.

After completing the welding work, the welding seams are cleaned, the surfaces are degreased and covered with anti-corrosion paint. The circular saw machine is ready for use.

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Making a stationary circular

If you don’t have a circular saw, and you need a more powerful machine for the job, you can make a small stationary machine. Such a machine, manufactured at a factory, is quite expensive, but a machine made by yourself will be several times cheaper. In order to make such a unit, we need the following material and tools:

• steel sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, approximately 1200x700 mm in size;
• metal corner 50x50 mm;
• asynchronous motor 220 V, 2.2 kW, 2850 rpm. (or another, at the request of the performer);
• pulley for engine;
• shaft with bearings and pulley;
• V-belt;
• saw blade:
• M10 bolts;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• clamps.

First of all, you need to purchase a shaft with bearings and a mount for the cutting disc. It can be bought at a building materials store or ordered and made in workshops (they often have ready-made products and are cheaper than in a store).

A frame is welded from a corner to fit the size of the prepared sheet. Then it is temporarily installed on it. After that, the installation locations of the shaft and electric motor are marked. Then two corners are welded into the frame with their flat surfaces facing up to secure the shaft and motor. The prepared frame is attached to the sheet with clamps and welded. A groove for the disk is cut into the sheet. In prepared areas, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to mount the shaft and motor. In the places where the motor is mounted, grooves are cut in the corners according to the size of the holes (for tensioning the V-belt).

Four corners are cut for the machine legs. The prepared legs are welded in the corners of the table frame. The structure is cleaned of rust, dirt and painted with metal paint. The shaft and motor are bolted to the back of the table, and a V-belt is installed. The belt is tensioned by moving the motor along the grooves, and then the mounting bolts are tightened tightly. The engine starting device is attached to the frame at the end. To ensure high-quality cutting, a guide bar is installed parallel to the disk, which can be attached to the table surface with clamps or bolts into pre-prepared holes. The unit is ready for operation.

By making a machine from a circular saw, you can greatly facilitate the work of sawing lumber.

By building such a unit correctly with your own hands, you can save significant money.