Material for the axe. Firewood splitter: making a wooden handle with your own hands

An ax is one of the most famous and accessible tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many work processes, resulting in excellent results. You can not only buy an ax ready-made in a specialized store, but also make it at home. This will not take much time, effort and Money. Today we will look in detail at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed in both household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets you can find many different models there are quite a lot of such tools, because there are quite a lot of types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find for himself suitable tool. Many people in such situations find a simple way out - they make an ax themselves. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax part. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before he finds the very tree from which he can make an axe. In most cases, this element of the ax is constructed from the root section of a birch tree, and even better, if you use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other deciduous trees that are classified as hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm make the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles High Quality. But it’s not enough to find the ideal material for making an axe. It is still necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The workpieces must be thoroughly dried. This is done only in natural conditions, and this often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, and better yet even longer (5 years will be quite enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place with good ventilation. To the space where it will be prepared natural material, precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and good ax it won't work.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the required degree, then you should move on to next stage creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template that will become a great assistant in further works.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict standards regulating the shape of the ax based on the main type of device. Thus, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. We must also take into account the fact that everything existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, they highlight the following types these tools:

carpentry;
lumberjack;
knotty;
cleaver;
butcher's

Before you start independent design such a tool, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

So that during the work the ax handle does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the gripping point.
When making an ax for a cleaver, you need to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches 0.5 m.
Another 8-10 cm should be added to the handle length parameter for the butt for allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree does not begin to split at this moment.

Template with it correct form and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It is not difficult to prepare an ax handle with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to a not very complex technology for carrying out work. Let's get acquainted with it:

mark the workpiece using a template;
after this it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
Next, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules, which must be adhered to as work progresses.

Processing the fixing area of the ax must be done as carefully and carefully as possible, so as not to accidentally remove excess part of the wood. Otherwise, the butt simply will not be able to be firmly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try the handle against the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
You should not use a file while finishing the part. This will lead to inevitable loosening of the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use fine abrasive sandpaper and a grinder rather than a file. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fastening area of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, the specified angle for it should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax – 75 degrees.

When making an ax yourself, you need to act very carefully. There's no need to rush. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, you will need to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's look at how this should be done.

Adjust the top of the piece to the eye of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part should be placed on top. Then you need to make a mark on the handle with a pencil until it will be driven in. Divide the segment and make another mark.
Secure the handle in a vertical position using a vice. The wide part should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second wedge mark.

At a specialized retail outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
Place the board on a separate tabletop. Point the blade at it. Place it upside down. Place the prepared ax handle over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the tool over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to be seated. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, you will be able to thoroughly drive the ax into the eye.
Then place the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge into the cut. Hammer it in with a mallet. Saw off any excess protruding parts

How to protect against rotting?

The wood from which an ax handle is made, like others similar materials, subject to rotting. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of your homemade ax in advance, protecting it from rotting. It is strongly not recommended to use compositions such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution other suitable impregnations will be available to protect the ax from rotting. Can cover the handle linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics, which will extend the service life natural wood. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this procedure.

Some masters add to antiseptic protective equipment red pigment. People turn to such a trick not at all to give the instrument a more interesting appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross-section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, you can successfully hold it without straining your hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect drying wood to build an axe. As a result, this ends up with the handle changing in size, and metal part with the butt it stays on very poorly. It is permissible to use undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing/template of the future tool. If you have a very convenient old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to begin sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax handle.

It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) correctly. Experienced craftsmen It is strongly recommended not to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it is better to make sure that there are no solid particles inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly recommended not to throw the finished tool onto hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax under open air. Precipitation or aggressive Sun rays may have a negative impact on quality wooden part. Keep this tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

Tools with ready-made ax handles are always on sale. But what is offered in specialized stores is not always suitable. The length of the ax should be such that it is convenient for the master to work. But each person has his own height and strength. Therefore, it is better to make an ax handle with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself wood harvesting for an ax handle

In order to make an ax handle with your own hands, you must first select the appropriate material. It is better to do this in late autumn: at this time of year, sap flow practically stops and the wood will be as dense and dry as possible. The following types of wood are suitable for an ax handle:

hornbeam;
rowan (old tree);
ash;
acacia;
Apple tree.

Birch wood taken from the root section of the trunk is characterized by the highest density. An ax handle made from it will last a long time.

Tip: to make an ax handle, you need to stock up on enough wood to make several blanks. During operation, some workpieces may be damaged or rejected.

Blanks for ax handles

Drying blanks for ax handles

A do-it-yourself ax handle should be made from dry wood. Drying of workpieces under natural conditions should be carried out for 3-4 years. Drying conditions: dark and dry ventilated area, protected from precipitation.

Important: making an ax with your own hands from insufficiently dry material will not give the desired result. Further drying of the wood will lead to warping and deformation.

Making a template for an ax handle with your own hands

There are strict rules governing the shape of the ax depending on the type of instrument. For light axes (0.8 - 1.0 kg), the handle is made 0.4 - 0.6 m long, and for heavy axes (up to 1.4 kg) - 0.55 - 0.65 m. The axes also differ according to its functional purpose:

lumberjack;
carpentry;
knotty;
cleaver;
butcher's ax

Types of axes depending on functional purpose

How to make an ax handle with your own hands: drawings of various models.

When making a template, consider the following.

To prevent the ax handle from jumping out of the hand when swinging, its tail part is made slightly wider than the gripping part.
A do-it-yourself ax handle for a cleaver should be made in the range of 0.75-0.95 m in length. Carpenter's axes with a shorter ax handle are about 0.5 m.
To the length of the ax and the butt, you need to add 8-10 cm as an allowance. It can be trimmed after installing the butt. It is important that the wood does not split.

How much allowance should be left when making an ax handle with your own hands - video for your attention.

Note: the template can be obtained by attaching it to the workpiece and outlining a ready-made ax handle good quality. Don't forget to add an allowance.

Ax manufacturing technology

To understand how to make an ax handle with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the technology. The whole process consists of three stages:

marking the workpiece using a template;
cutting out the workpiece with a jigsaw or other tool;
turning and polishing.

There are several rules that must be followed during the work process.

Processing the fastening section of the ax handle should be done carefully so as not to remove excess wood. Otherwise, the butt will not sit tightly in place. The ax handle must be periodically tried on to the eye in order to ultimately leave a margin of about 2 mm.
It is not recommended to use a file when finishing a part: this loosens the wood and complicates its further processing. The best way the use of fine abrasive is considered sandpaper With grinder. The movement of the tool is along the fibers.
The final shape of the fastening section of the ax handle should be given taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. For a cleaver this angle is chosen to be 85°, for an ax - 75°.

Wedging the ax

Making an ax with your own hands: a video for those who use ordinary tools in their work.

How to protect an ax handle from rotting

The wood of the ax handle gradually becomes unusable under the influence of moisture. It is necessary to protect the instrument from damage. To treat the handle, you cannot use covering agents, which include paints and varnishes. In this case, the tool may slip out of your palm. For protection, it is recommended to use drying oil or linseed oil. There are other antiseptic agents that are absorbed into the wood.

It is necessary to process the ax handle in several steps. Every new stage Treatments should be carried out after complete absorption of the previously applied product.

Treating the ax handle with a protective agent

Tip: You can add a bright red pigment to the ax handle treatment product. As a result, the instrument will be clearly visible in thick grass and it can be easily found if lost.

At the end of the article on how to make an ax handle with your own hands, there is a video where the master clearly demonstrates the basic techniques of work.

It is not easy to choose a new wooden ax for a cleaver, the configuration of which is largely determined by individual preferences.

A truly comfortable handle would be a custom-made handle, made using accessible technology that does not require special skills.

Wood processing can be easily done using carpentry workbench or on a replacement desktop. List of the the necessary tool as follows:

Wood hacksaw;
Carpenter's ax;
Plane;
Hammer;
Chisel;
Roulette;
Sandpaper.

Using power tools ( grinding machine, circular saw or an electric plane), will greatly facilitate the process of making a handle for a cleaver, but you can do without them.

Wood for an ax

The type of wood and the drying of the workpiece determine the durability of the ax for the cleaver. Freshly cut lumps are not suitable for handles: when the wood dries out, it becomes much thinner, cracks and warps. At home, a natural drying method is used, which allows you to prepare the workpiece in a dry shed for two years and in one year if you keep the wood in a heated room. The harvested wood is sawed off 15–20 cm longer than the future ax for the cleaver, in order to subsequently remove the ends covered with cracks.

Among the available tree species best properties Ash has a handle that is strong, elastic and does not dry out much over time. It is easier to find a suitable birch log, but it takes longer to dry, and it rots faster. A maple ax handle is less loose, and is slightly inferior to a birch one in terms of impact strength, but is more durable and easy to process.

Shape and dimensions of the ax

A firewood cleaver should have a slightly curved handle 50–70 cm long for medium logs and 80–100 cm for large stumps. The ax handle is made of an oval cross-section, consisting of two semicircles connected by straight sections. This handle provides a confident grip and tactile control over the trajectory of the cleaving axe. Only the seating part of the ax for the cleaver is ovoid in shape, corresponding to the hole in the metal tip. A bend is made in the tail part of the handle in order to better hold the cleaver, which tends to slip out of the hand when strong blows. In addition, the downward-pointing end causes less twisting of the hand at the final moment of the blow.

Making your own handle

First, a block of dried lump is made from a thickness of 3–5 mm greater than the width of the mounting hole. The reserve will allow you to later adjust the workpiece in case of mistaken removal of excess wood somewhere. If it is necessary to remove a thick layer, use an ax or circular saw, then the surfaces are planed with a plane, simultaneously leveling the planes.

On the resulting workpiece, mark the outline of the ax handle with the same margin of a few millimeters.

For convenience, the piece of wood is clamped and transverse cuts are made with a hacksaw in increments of 35–40 mm, not reaching the marking line by 2–4 mm.

Next, use an ax or chisel to knock down pieces of wood in small pieces, following the direction of the chip and not allowing it to go deeper than the drawn contour.

The shank is filed perpendicular to the axis of the ax to reduce the likelihood of chipping wooden product.

Having completed rough processing, mark the dimensions of the mounting hole.

Why find the center at the end of the workpiece and align the tip along it.

The final shapes are given to the workpiece by planing the convex surfaces with a plane, and the sunken parts are selected with a sharp knife.

Working carefully, remove thin shavings and periodically turn the part over to change the direction of the cut. As a result, you get an almost finished ax handle.

Now the upper end of the handle is chamfered for approach.

They try to lightly insert the handle into the eye, after which marks will remain on the wood, showing how much material needs to be removed.

Focusing on these marks, they continue to adjust the axe. Then another test attachment is made to identify areas of chipping.

Subsequent fine-tuning of the handle is carried out with sandpaper, smoothing out all irregularities and bringing the surfaces to a smooth state.

The tip is finally placed on the finished ax handle, ensuring an even fit. The protruding end of the piece of wood is cut off with a saw.

Place the cleaver vertically and hammer in a wedge, the length of which should not exceed the size of the butt to avoid cracking. If the wedge is not completely buried in the wood, the excess is cut off with a hacksaw.

The handle of a firewood cleaver is impregnated with a protective and decorative compound, leaving the surface rough. Do not use varnishes or oil paints, forming a glossy coating.

An ax is one of the tools you need to have on the farm. Of course, you can buy it in a store, but if you want to have a reliable and a convenient thing, it is better to make the tool yourself. The article will talk about how to make an ax handle at home with your own with skillful hands and install the metal blade correctly.

How to select and prepare wood

An ax handle is the handle of a working tool. Labor productivity completely depends on how easy it is to work with it. Therefore, a regular straight stick will not work in this case. A real ax handle is a curved beam with an oval cross-section and straight sections. The tail part should be widened and bent downwards. Only with this option the hand of the person performing the work will be able to reliably hold the tool without experiencing fatigue for a long time.

The following types of wood are best suited for making an ax:

maple;
birch;
acacia;
ash.

Wood should be harvested in the fall. For carpentry tools Birch is perfect, but for the hiking option, maple is more often used. Its impact strength is less than that of birch. Ideal option Ash is considered to be very durable and rarely changes shape. It is better to make an ax handle from a section of wood located near the root, and the workpiece should be 15 cm wider and longer than the future product.

Attention! Before the prepared beams are used to make an ax handle, they must dry for at least a year in a dry, dark place, for example, in the attic. This is necessary so that when finished, the handle does not shrink and start to dangle in the eyelet.

Fresh wood can only be used if the ax handle breaks, as a temporary option that needs to be replaced quickly.

How to make an ax handle

In order to make an ax handle you will need:

wooden blank;
hacksaw;
chisel;
pencil;
file;
hammer.

The manufacturing process itself takes place in the following order:

Attention! You need to make the ax handle so that the cross-section is oval. In this case, it will be possible to hold it without particularly straining your hand and make very accurate blows.

Impregnation of the ax handle and ax attachment

The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent composition. There are two options:

drying oil;
linseed oil;
ski resin.

Lubricate the wood with the chosen product and leave it until it dries. The treatment is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin can penetrate deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find in stores. Therefore, the first two options are often used.

Advice. You can add a bright dye to the impregnation agent. This way it will be difficult to lose the finished tool.

The ax attachment to the handle is done as follows:

Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing technique. Making an ax handle with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, if you have the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a high-quality tool.

How to make an ax handle: video

Selection the right material for an ax handle is very important; it is impossible to make a reliable ax if the wrong wood is chosen for the ax handle.
For the ax handle, only hard wood from deciduous trees can be used.
The wood must be well dried: standard drying of lumber to 8-12% moisture content is not enough; it is advisable to take wood dried in special chambers or condition the workpiece long time in a very dry place - on radiators or on a stove. Additional drying allows you to avoid loosening of the ax due to drying out due to loss of moisture in conditions with variable temperature and humidity - winter/summer, damp forest/flooded apartment.

Choosing the type of wood for making an ax

Ash

Ash, in our opinion, is one of the best materials for making an axe. Ash wood is quite affordable: well-dried ash lumber of the required quality is used for finishing and making furniture. In a large wood trading organization you can usually choose a block required size and quality.
The strength of ash is beyond praise. In terms of wood density, hardness and durability, it is close to oak, but at the same time it is quite elastic. Spear shafts and battle ax handles were usually made from ash. Currently, instrument handles and gymnastic bars are made from ash.

Ash wood is beautiful and can vary greatly in appearance. In one tree there is wood that differs in color and grain pattern. When making axes, we focus not on the beauty of the design, but on the arrangement of the fibers, which provides the greatest strength. We can only suggest choosing an ax with a darker or lighter ax handle from those available in stock.

American walnut

Ax handle from American walnut raw and polished, impregnated with linseed oil.
American walnut has fairly hard, tough and durable wood. It polishes perfectly and after that acquires excellent appearance. We impregnate the axes of our axes with ordinary linseed oil and do not use stains; as a result, the axes retain their appearance for a long time and are pleasant to the touch.

Jatoba

Ax handles made of jatoba and ash

Jatoba wood has high impact strength and is well suited for the manufacture of sports equipment and tool handles, suitable for the manufacture of steam-bent parts and is often used in furniture production. The wood is very durable, hard, tough, and surpasses oak wood in strength. Jatoba is beautifully processed and has an unsurpassed appearance. Perhaps this is the most beautiful wood from which it makes sense to make ax handles.
Jatoba is excellent for making ax handles, especially if the ax requires not only functionality, but also high aesthetic qualities.

Hickory

Hickory is widely used for the handles of axes, hammers, picks and other tools in America and Canada. The wood is strong, elastic, and quite durable.

Oak and beech

They have a beautiful structure, are strong, durable, fairly easy to process, and affordable. Unfortunately, both breeds have disadvantages when making ax handles. Oak is too hard and dries out your hand when cutting. However, when we mounted a felling ax on a long (about a meter) oak ax handle, the recoil was no longer transmitted to the hand - the length of the ax absorbed the blow. Beech cuts perfectly, has a beautiful surface, but is very hygroscopic. To protect a beech ax from moisture, simply impregnating it with oil will not be enough.

Birch

The most common ax handles in Russia are birch, although it is difficult to call birch wood the best option. Perhaps, if you use split dies from the butt part of a silver birch, cut down and dried in a certain way, you can get an excellent product. But the availability of such material leaves much to be desired: even if it is possible to select a birch trunk of the required quality cut down in winter, and there is a place for drying with the required parameters, the drying time will still be more than a year. In addition, birch easily absorbs water and is spoiled by microorganisms, so in addition to thorough initial impregnation, further care during operation.
Do quality ax handle birch can only be recommended to those for whom the process is valuable self-made and who is willing to spend significant time and effort on preparing wood.
The quality of mass-sold birch ax handles is extremely low; sold birch lumber is also not suitable as a material for ax handles.

Maple ax handles

Maple showed itself good material for making ax handles. In addition to sufficient strength and elasticity, maple has a beautiful texture and polishes well. The ax handle, made of maple, has a wonderful appearance.

Acacia

In order from top to bottom in the photo: ax handle made of ash, acacia, American walnut. The ax is mounted on an ax handle made of American walnut, polished and impregnated with linseed oil.
Acacia has hard and durable wood; axes are often made from it in the southern regions.

Ax handle strength

The fracture strength of the ax is ensured by the arrangement of the fibers along the ax and the strength of the wood. Cross-layering is unacceptable, with the exception of blanks made from chopped dies of twisted wood, in which case significant strength can be achieved during manufacturing given the arrangement of the layers.

Service life of the ax

The durability of a properly made ax is determined by the resistance of the wood to impact and compression. The part of the ax located in the eye experiences very significant loads; over time, it can become wrinkled and the ax head becomes loose. The service life is determined by the type of wood (the harder the better), drying (a poorly dried ax handle will “get wet” very quickly), and the density of the attachment: precise fitting and tight attachment (by blows or pressing) significantly increase durability. Properly made axes can work under heavy loads for years without requiring repairs.
If a properly made and mounted ax handle becomes loose, it can be repaired. In the case of a direct attachment (when the ax is placed on top of the tapering end of the ax handle and then wedged), the ax should be set back and an additional wedge made of hardwood should be hammered in. It is also possible to use a flat or round metal wedge.
When the ax is mounted in reverse (the ax handle is passed through a cone-shaped eyelet from top to bottom), loosening does not occur, since during operation the loads are directed towards the expanding end of the ax handle and the ax is only fitted more tightly.