Cladding walls with plasterboard sheets using a frame method. How to cover walls with plasterboard? Nuances of constructing a multilayer wall

Like many Construction Materials, drywall came from the USA, where its first prototype appeared in the 19th century. Its appearance immediately solved many problems associated with interior decoration premises. Of course, because facing walls with plasterboard allows you to create perfectly smooth surfaces in almost hopeless places. And of course, this is very good way quickly redesign the premises minimum costs. How to do correct installation and what do you need to know when carrying out such work?

Cladding methods

A huge advantage of finishing work using drywall is that there are two options for its installation.

Frame method. Classic version and the most common.
Frameless. Less used in practice, however, it has its positive aspects.

What features does plasterboard cladding have in each installation option?

There are only two types of wall cladding with plasterboard: frame - the most popular and frameless

Frame installation of drywall

Most applicable when internal works. Allows you to level walls with large differences and unevenness, while you can hide it in the walls various kinds utilities and insulate housing by laying insulation under the frame.

What will be needed for installation?

Cladding gypsum board walls on a frame requires certain materials and tools.

Drywall. It can be ordinary wall, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant. Which option to choose depends on the conditions of the room.
Metal profiles and fasteners. The profile is purchased in several types - guides and rack-mount. You also need to purchase hangers (if the frame is hanging) and self-tapping screws for fastening the profile to each other and to the main surface. Don’t forget about attaching the gypsum board sheets to the resulting frame.
Drill (hammer), screwdriver. Without this tool, it is almost impossible to do a high-quality installation of the frame and drywall.
Building level, tape measure, cord - for leveling and accurate measurements.
Metal scissors, grinder. Metal profile cutting tool.
Knife for cutting drywall. You can just get by with a regular utility knife with spare blades.

A more accurate list of materials and tools is selected depending on the type frame structure. There are three main ones:

wood;
wall-mounted with metal profile;
frame with a profile on hangers.

The wooden frame is easy to install. But the material must be perfectly dried, smooth and without flaws. The slats can be laid both vertically and horizontally. The main disadvantage of such a frame is poor protection from moisture. If you use damp wood, then when the frame dries, it will “pull” the drywall sheets, and as a result, cracks will appear.

Which frame should be mounted, wall-mounted or suspended?

The choice of the type of metal profile frame will depend on how smooth the walls are. If the differences are small, then the wall type can be used. Well, with large (>100 mm) differences, only a suspended frame is possible.

Wall frame

To begin with, before assembly, measurements are taken and the level on the floor and ceiling is marked where the guides of the entire structure will be fixed. Marking is carried out using a marking cord.
Following the mark, guide profiles are attached to the surfaces (according to the UD marking). Their fastening is ensured using dowel nails.
A rack profile (ceiling type CD) is inserted into the guides. For rigid fixation of the racks, self-tapping screws (“fleas”) or press washers are used. The pitch of the racks can be from 400 to 600 mm.
On the received frame structure fasten sheets of drywall using self-tapping screws (the caps are slightly recessed into the sheet).

Frame installation of plasterboard is divided into three categories: wooden, wall and suspended frame

When installing drywall sheets, sometimes you need to cut them to size. To do this, markings are made on both sides of the material. Cutting is carried out using a stationery knife, along a line on one side and the other, pressing lightly. To ensure an even cut, it is better to do this process under a ruler or level.
The mounted drywall is subsequently prepared for puttying.

Frame on hangers

This type of construction is used if the differences in the relief of the walls are very significant, as well as when laying communications or insulation. It is important that the insulation should not be pressed down by the frame, otherwise it will lose its properties.

For mounting measure optimal distance from the walls (usually up to 150 mm) and beat off the lines with a cord.
Guides are attached along the lines in the same way as in the wall-mounted version.
On the walls in the places where the frame posts will go, make appropriate markings and use dowel-nails to attach straight hangers (their number depends on the height of the room, on standard height 2.5 meters requires four hangers).
Racks are inserted into the guides, to which the hangers are bent, securing them using self-tapping screws. Excess hangers can be cut off or, even easier, folded.
After this, drywall is laid on the frame and firmly fixed with self-tapping screws.

The pitch between screws in drywall is from 250 to 350 millimeters. If you plan to hang shelves, a TV and other heavy objects on the walls, then you need to make bookmarks in the walls in the form of wooden blocks. You can also use a special moth dowel for this.

The suspended frame allows you to level walls with large differences and unevenness

Upon completion of work, the surfaces are prepared for plastering.

Frameless installation of drywall

Cladding walls with plasterboard on glue is the most quick way indoor surface finishing. To do this, use dry gypsum mixtures. The main condition is that the walls must be smooth, durable and not exposed to moisture.

For this type of finishing they use gypsum assembly adhesive. It is available for sale in dry form, packaged in bags.

Frameless installation of drywall is the most in a simple way cladding

Installation of drywall using the frameless method is carried out in several stages.

Initially, all required communications must be laid.
The surfaces on which installation will be carried out are cleaned of debris and dust, and fragile areas are restored.
Level markings are carried out for even laying of plasterboard sheets.
The walls need to be primed with soil with antiseptic additives.
Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the instructions indicated on the package. For good mixing, use a drill and mixer. You should not initially prepare too much glue, as it dries quickly.
If you need to retreat slightly from the wall, then first lay wooden substrates, which are then removed.
Gypsum mounting adhesive is applied pointwise to sheets of plasterboard, which are then pressed against the wall.
To securely fix the sheets, you can additionally add several self-tapping screws. If in the future it is planned suspended ceiling, then such fastening must be done in the upper part.

The glue dries within two days, after which the backing can be removed and further finishing can begin. If various kinds of fastenings are provided for the wall in the future, then in the places where they will be located, you need to coat the sheet with the adhesive mixture completely, over the entire surface.

After graduation installation work start to finishing drywall using one of the selected methods.

Sheathing walls with plasterboard involves attaching plasterboard sheets to the main walls. Thanks to the excellent insulating qualities of the material, plasterboard wall covering has become quite widespread and deservedly popular. In practice, finishing walls with plasterboard is used in the most different rooms, both in apartments and office premises. This is due to the fact that finishing walls with plasterboard has many advantages compared to any other finish. You will learn about the advantages of covering walls with plasterboard in this article. In addition, you will learn how to cover walls with plasterboard yourself.

What is this article about?

Benefits of drywall

As mentioned earlier, plasterboard sheathing has many advantages. Among them are the following.

Plasterboard covering is available to everyone. Plasterboard sheets are quite common and have a reasonable price, making it possible to cover walls with plasterboard relatively inexpensively.
Cladding walls with plasterboard will allow you to get a perfectly flat wall. If you decide to cover the walls with plasterboard, then you can be sure that there will be no problems with the decorative finishing. In addition, you don’t have to worry about how to level the drywall.
Wall cladding with plasterboard is completely environmentally friendly. Many people, before covering the walls with plasterboard, wonder whether the material will harm the people in the apartment? The fears are in vain. Sheathing walls with gypsum board is a completely environmentally friendly solution.
Finishing a room with plasterboard will save your apartment from some troubles. It’s worth talking about this in a little more detail before covering the wall with plasterboard. Finishing ceilings and walls with plasterboard does not always involve cladding with ordinary gray plasterboard sheets. There are two special types of plasterboard sheets. First, moisture-resistant green plasterboard sheets. They stand up well humid air and are ideal for installation in a bathroom, toilet or other wet area. Secondly, fire-resistant pink plasterboard sheets. These sheets are fire retardant material which is suitable for installation in very warm rooms, where there is an increased level of fire danger.
Finishing walls with plasterboard is a fairly easy process. Even a beginner who does not have any professional skills will be able to figure out how to cover walls with plasterboard. By covering the walls with plasterboard with your own hands, you will definitely not encounter any insurmountable obstacles. Moreover, drywall is a very flexible material in terms of processing. For example, you can easily make a frame frame in front of a window.
As mentioned in the paragraph above, covering walls with plasterboard with your own hands will not put you in a difficult position. the same applies to the operation of plasterboard walls.
You can repair plasterboard walls at any time. The advantage of such repairs is that only the damaged area will have to be repaired, and not completely change the entire casing.

It is worth mentioning that in addition to the usual gypsum boards, there are also gypsum board sheets. They are created from the same material, but are slightly different in their structure. Both options are suitable for wall cladding.

Choosing a cladding method

Before you start covering the walls, you need to decide on the method interior styling. This is very important to make a smooth wall. There are two ways to finish a wall plasterboard sheets: veneer the sheets directly onto the wall, with direct abutment, or build a special metal frame and then process it plasterboard sheets. The choice of installation method determines what you need. step-by-step instruction and installation diagram. A lot depends on what material the main walls in the house are made of. They can be brick, reinforced concrete or, if the repair is carried out in country house, wooden.

On each of these materials, plasterboard sheets can be placed either directly or together with a metal frame. What determines our choice? The size of the error in the evenness of the wall is the determining indicator. The fact is that the main task of plasterboard sheathing is to level the wall, and if the main wall has a large error, and plasterboard sheets are placed on it without a frame, the error will remain uncorrected. If the wall defect is less than twenty millimeters, then you can safely cover the wall with putty and lay plasterboard sheets on it. If the error is more than twenty millimeters, then there are no options. Will come to install the frame.

However, it often happens that the master wants to install the frame on the wall with a small error or plant plasterboard sheets directly on an uneven surface. Why does this happen? You can figure this out if you look at all the advantages and disadvantages of both installation methods.

The frame gives the plasterboard sheathing additional strength and reliability. In addition, various communications are really very easily hidden in the profiles of the metal frame. The frame can be installed on absolutely any surface, even when the unevenness is simply catastrophic. Even heavy finishing, such as tiles, can be installed on a structure with a metal frame, which a plasterboard wall without a frame will not always support. However, the installation process of the frame makes the installation as a whole too complicated, because it is the frame that takes up the bulk of the work. In addition, you will need to spend more money on metal profiles. The frame also slightly reduces the overall amount of available space in the room.

Installation directly on the wall, in turn, is quite simple, does not require additional costs and does not reduce the size of the room. However, this design is much less durable and more susceptible to damage. Plasterboard sheets glued to the wall cannot support anything too heavy. Another fundamental drawback is that this installation option significantly loses in terms of sound insulation of the room.

Installation of a frame wall

The first thing you need to do before installing the frame is, of course, to draw up a diagram of the future structure, especially if it involves installing additional niches, and apply markings on the wall that will make it easier for you to install the frame sheathing. First, we find the most protruding point on the wall. It is from this that all measurements will be taken, and from which the frame will be installed. This is necessary so that the frame is mounted completely level, and accordingly the wall begins to level out. From this point we apply marks to the ceiling, floor, and all adjacent walls.

Next we will need two types metal profiles– ceiling and guides. Using dowels, we first attach the guide profiles. The step between them should be one meter. After this, on direct suspensions, you need to install ceiling profiles at a distance of one and a half meters. To make sure that all profiles are installed correctly and fastened to each other securely enough, check the frame for strength with my own hands. It should not wobble, not a single profile should lag behind, and the fastening points should be fixed to the maximum. If the frame is strong and reliable enough, then you did everything right.

When the frame is installed and well secured, it’s time to take care of sound insulation and communications. Usually, in the spaces between the profiles it is laid soundproofing material. Any material that you consider reliable enough will do. Communications through a metal frame are laid easily, but you should remember one very important detail. If you are laying electrical wiring in the frame, the wires should be pulled through a corrugated pipe. This is necessary because the edges of metal profiles can simply damage the wires.

It's time to install the drywall sheets. Cut them into the pieces you need. This is done very easily. You won't need any tools other than a utility knife or jigsaw. Plasterboard sheets are very easy to cut. But when you cut them, be prepared for the whole room to be covered in plaster dust. Once you have received the plasterboard pieces of the size you need, screw them to the frame using metal screws. It is important to deepen the screws so much that their heads are completely hidden in the material.

After all the plasterboard sheets have been installed, it’s time for finishing. Before you start puttingty, do not forget to prime the plasterboard surface of the wall. We will need putty. It can be sold ready-made or dry. It is more often recommended to buy dry putty. Putty powder is diluted in water as indicated in the instructions. Then we take a spatula and cover the wall with the prepared putty. It is important to thoroughly fill all the seams formed at the joints of the plasterboard sheets with putty. Holes from screw heads and cracks formed during installation are also covered. The putty needs to be spread so that the end result is perfect. flat wall without defects or irregularities.

When you are sure that the wall is fairly level and the putty has dried sufficiently, you can begin decorative finishing. For this type of cladding, absolutely any finishing material. You can, for example, paint a wall with simple paint, or you can use acrylic paints to create original drawings. Especially this one option will do creative people who love and know how to draw. You can also cover the wall with wallpaper. These options relate to the benefits that drywall has given us, namely the smooth wall created with it. But the frame also gives us advantages in decorative finishing. You can attach tiles or natural stone. The latter option is best installed on green, moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Gluing plasterboard sheets directly to the wall is done in the same way, only without a frame. Glue is used instead. It is applied to reverse side sheet in the same way as we all applied PVA glue to cardboard for crafts as children. The edges of the sheet are covered, and one large bead of glue fixes it central part. Still, if possible, it is recommended to install plasterboard sheathing only with a frame, even if the wall is fairly flat. This will help avoid defects in the future. However, it is worth remembering that the frame provides a relative guarantee of reliability only if it is installed correctly.

Interior decoration almost always begins with leveling the walls. This can be done in several ways, the most convenient of which is plasterboard sheathing. This material is easy to cut and attach, does not require special skills and gives a perfectly flat surface. Due to the ease of installation, covering walls with plasterboard yourself will not take much time and will allow you to save a little.

The room is cleared of bulky objects, everything unnecessary is removed from the wall, wiring and communications are removed. The sheathing covers all unevenness and defects, so there is no need to level the walls, just check their integrity. Wallpaper or peeling paint must be removed and all cracks and crevices must be sealed with putty. After this, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.

To cover the walls you will need:

Step 1. Installation of guide profiles

The floor along the walls should be smooth and clean. Having retreated a few centimeters from the wall, draw a marking line for the guide profile. If all the walls in the room are sheathed, the markings are made parallel to each wall and connected at an angle of 90 degrees. Now a guide profile is applied along the line and screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws. IN concrete screed pre-drill holes for dowels.

The length of one profile is 3 m; for extensions, metal connectors and screws 9.5 mm long are used. For corner connection the end of the profile is cut on both sides, the sides are bent and screwed with self-tapping screws to the side edge of the second profile.

Next, vertical guides are installed on the sides of the wall: the lower ends of the profiles are inserted into the floor profile, aligned vertically using a plumb line and screwed with self-tapping screws at the base and to the ceiling. The ends of the ceiling guide are inserted into the right and left wall profiles, aligned with the floor profile and screwed.

Step 2. Installation of supporting profiles

To attach the supporting profiles, you need to make markings on the wall: strictly vertical lines are drawn from the ceiling to the floor every 40 or 60 cm. Along the markings, U-shaped brackets are screwed to the wall at intervals of 60 cm in height. The brackets are fixed to a wooden wall with self-tapping screws, and to a concrete or brick wall using dowel nails. Now the supporting profiles are inserted into the lower and upper guides, aligned parallel to the markings and screwed on both sides with 3.5x9.5 mm self-tapping screws. Finally, each profile is strengthened vertically with brackets.

Step 3. Laying communications

After installing the frame, wiring is attached between the profiles and communication pipes are laid. Both wires and pipes should not protrude beyond the guides along the entire plane. To attach communications to the wall surface, special clamps and brackets are used. Special attention You need to pay attention to insulating wires and sealing pipe joints so that you don’t have to dismantle the drywall to repair damage.

Step 4. Wall insulation

If the external walls are insulated, you can do without internal thermal insulation, leaving free space between the drywall and the wall. But even in this case, a layer of insulation under the skin will not be superfluous: such materials have high sound-proofing properties. Before laying, the materials are cut into strips, the width of which is 2-3 cm greater than the distance between the profiles. Lay the insulation as tightly as possible so that no gaps form.

Step 5. Sheathing the frame

Covering the frame with plasterboard

Drywall sheets are cut sequentially. To cut the material evenly, you need to draw a line on the surface of the sheet and cut it with a sharp knife. Then the sheet is broken along the markings and cut through on the other side.

So, the sheathing starts from the corner:

take the first sheet and apply it to the supporting profile;

align the material along the edges and screw it with self-tapping screws 25 mm long to the posts every 30 cm;

the next sheet is screwed side by side, aligning the joints on the supporting profile;

for the top row, the first sheet is cut by 40 or 60 cm so that the vertical seams move, since more than three fragments cannot be joined at one point;

Before installing drywall, holes for communications are cut in the sheet where the pipeline exits.

The screw heads should go no more than 2 mm into the skin; they should also not be allowed to protrude above the surface. To control the immersion depth of the screws, it is recommended to use a bit with a limiter.

Step 6. Sealing the seams

Since sheets of drywall have truncated or rounded edges, when adjacent fragments are joined, indentations are necessarily formed at the seams. To seal them, you will need putty, a spatula and reinforcing tape - serpyanka. Knead starting putty, cut off a piece of serpyanka of the appropriate length, apply the putty mixture to the seam and apply the serpyanka on top. Having carefully straightened the tape in the center of the joint, apply the putty again and carefully distribute it with a spatula.

The putty layer should not be too thick; it is better to apply several layers until the seam is completely level with the surface of the drywall. When the putty has dried, the joints are treated with the finest sandpaper. High-quality sealed seams do not have depressions or cracks and look like smooth white stripes on gray background walls

Joints on the casing external corners closed using perforated corner profiles. First, apply the solution to the corner with a spatula, distribute it thickly in height, and then apply and press the aluminum corner into the putty. The corners are attached to each other with an overlap of 5-7 cm. The putty mixture is again applied on top and a corner is formed using a spatula. Excess solution is immediately removed, and after drying, the surface is sanded with sandpaper.

Step 7. Finishing

To remove the smallest defects, drywall is covered with thin layer finishing putty. To do this you will need a wide metal spatula. They start from the edge of the wall: a spatula with the collected solution is placed against the wall at an angle of 10 degrees, pressed from below and moved upward with a sharp movement. The more precise and uniform the movements of the spatula, the smoother the putty will lie. If it doesn’t work right away, you can try it on a section of the wall. There is no need to press hard, otherwise scratches will appear on the surface; you should also not let go of the spatula while moving to avoid the formation of sagging.

If you plan to paint the walls, you need to apply 2 layers of putty, then the seams will not show through the paint. After sanding, the surface is primed, and then the walls can be painted, wallpapered or covered decorative plaster.

Video - Editing Secrets

Frameless wall cladding

There is another option for attaching plasterboard sheets - without using profiles. This method is suitable if:

the height of the wall does not exceed 2.5 m;
vertical deviation no more than 2 cm;
the walls do not need insulation;
the room is dry and not subject to sudden temperature changes.

Of course, you cannot glue drywall to wallpaper, decorative plaster or peeling paint, otherwise the sheathing will not last long.

If all conditions meet the requirements, you can start working.

Step 1. Preparing the walls

Concrete or wooden base clean from dust, oil stains, seal cracks. If the walls are painted and the paint adheres very firmly, there is no need to remove it; it is enough to make small vertical and horizontal notches every 30 cm. Next, the surface is coated with a primer and dried.

Step 2. Fastening communications

Low-current wiring can be fixed directly to the surface, but for power electrical cables and communication pipes, grooves must be punched in the wall. After laying the wires and pipes, the grooves are closed with special strips and the seams are sealed with putty.

Step 3. Cutting sheets

The lower edge of the sheathing should be 1-1.5 cm above the floor surface. If the height of the wall corresponds to the height of the drywall, the sheets are cut along the lower edge with a hacksaw. Next, if necessary, cut holes for switches, sockets, and pipe outlets.

Step 4. Attaching drywall

According to the instructions, dilute the glue, apply it with a notched spatula on back side sheet with a wide strip along the perimeter and two stripes in the center. Having placed mounting wedges underneath, the drywall is applied to the wall, leveled and carefully pressed. Using a level or a long ruler, check the sheet vertically and horizontally, tapping it with a rubber hammer if necessary. Install the adjacent sheet in the same way, trying to join it to the previous one as tightly as possible.

Step 5. Sealing the seams

Thin seams less than 4 mm wide are sealed with one putty; for wide ones, serpyanka is additionally used. You can fill the joints with glue, removing the excess with a clean rag. The puttyed areas must be sanded with fine sandpaper and then cleaned of dust. It is best to fill the gap between the floor and the drywall with a waterproof sealant.

Now all that remains is to level the surface finishing putty, sand and wipe off dust. After priming, the walls can be painted, whitewashed or wallpapered - as you like.

Video - Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering

The appearance of drywall in construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). Installing this material allows you to create a surface with a high level of evenness on the wall or ceiling. This in turn is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Plasterboard sheets allow you to level planes with any difference in the area being finished. If this difference is small (up to 5 cm), then a frameless installation method can be used. If more than 5 cm, then the drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and Profiles

Currently, this leveling material is mounted on a lathing made of metal profiles. The technology itself for constructing a new surface is so simple that even one can handle it.

Photo of a figured plasterboard wall with backlight

Even more photo of plasterboard walls look .

To do this, you will need the plasterboard sheet itself and several profiles: for finishing the wall - a guide and a rack, for the ceiling - a guide and a ceiling. As well as direct hangers and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From the tools:

Hammer;
Screwdriver;
Planer for removing edges;
Level;
Plumb;
Putty knife.

Tool for installing metal frames under drywall

Installation of a frame under plasterboard

Let's consider. To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted inward or outward. To determine this, it is necessary to top corner attach a suspension to the walls. If its sinker moves away from the bottom corner of the floor to a certain distance, it means the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the installation location of the plumb line slightly toward you, that is, align the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, you will have to make horizontal marks on the ceiling close to the wall in each opposite corner. Connect them with a line onto which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them to each other and secure the guide profile to the floor.

In order to install the profiles simply, you need to cut them to fit the length of the wall, make holes in them, install along the line and mark the fasteners through the holes. Then, using a hammer drill, holes are made in the floor or ceiling into which plastic dowels are driven. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

If the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then you will have to extend them. There is nothing complicated about it. The two elements to be connected are inserted into each other at their ends and secured with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is carried out along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next stage is the installation of rack profiles. The two outer elements can be installed at once, secured to adjacent walls and to the top and bottom rails. To install intermediate elements, you will have to draw vertical lines on the wall, which will determine the location of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width of the plasterboard sheet is 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

Along the drawn lines, straight hangers are installed every 50-60 cm, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this you will need a hammer drill and a screwdriver. To make sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to stretch a strong thread in several rows between the two outer rack profiles. It is on this basis that the alignment should be carried out.

An option for reinforcing the frame under plasterboard with a wooden block

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The pitch is chosen at your discretion, much will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the fewer the steps. Cross members will strengthen the frame and make it rigid.

Fastening drywall

So, the sheathing is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, you need to process its edges with a special plane to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be sealed with putty.

We lift the sheet and install it to the sheathing so that it rests on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined together on one profile. This does not apply to the corner element, which the sheet covers completely.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws; here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

The distance from the edge of the panel to the mounting point is 10-15 mm.
The distance between fasteners is 100-150 mm.
The screw-in depth of the cap is up to 5 mm.

Puttying joints of plasterboard sheets

After all the sheets are laid and secured, it is necessary to seal the joints. To do this, a putty solution is used to fill the seam. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. You will need a spatula here. Please note that the places where the drywall is attached to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of constructing a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure the height of all corners, smallest size exactly what you need. It is here that the laser level is installed at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling. His light rays a contour will be drawn on the walls. You will have to install guide profiles along them to the walls.

It is usually carried out along the room, so across the room from one of the walls we set aside dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing hangers. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are stretched between two longitudinal guides, and the intermediate elements of the sheathing will have to be aligned along them.

Option for a reinforced frame for a plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, aligned with the threads and attached to the hangers. After which the frame will need to be strengthened with cross members, as is the case with the wall.

Finishing drywall

If a plasterboard wall needs to be painted or wallpaper pasted on it, then carry out Finishing work it is forbidden. The drywall will have to be trimmed. To do this, its surface is additionally needed. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if you apply it in a thin layer and finish it with sandpaper, the plane will be even.

Scheme of this type of work:

The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. The surface needs to dry. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done so that the cardboard has a surface with high degree adhesion.
Next, a layer of putty is applied, which also needs to be dried.
If you are not satisfied with the level of evenness, you will have to apply another layer. But before this, the first one must be treated with a primer.
Now you need to treat the putty surface with fine-grained sandpaper. To do this, use a grater on which you attach sandpaper. Using circular, leisurely movements, without effort or pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
After which a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
Once it is dry, you can paint or wallpaper.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL) are an excellent substitute the usual way leveling walls - plaster. The article discusses the main methods of using this material.

Plasterboard wall covering

Plasterboard sheets are produced in sizes 1200*2500 mm, thickness varies from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. Specifications plasterboard allows you to use it for finishing inside all rooms. There are types of drywall with increased moisture or fire resistance.

Interior finishing with plasterboard: advantages and disadvantages

Cladding walls and ceilings has a number of undeniable advantages:

the ability to hide communications under sheets, such as electrical wiring or heating pipes;
the ability to level even very uneven walls;
high installation speed;
Mineral wool can be placed in the voids between the wall and the sheathing to increase sound and heat insulation.

Significant disadvantages include the higher cost of materials and work relative to plaster, and the inability to hang heavy objects without prior preparation.

Sheathing methods

GCR surfaces are decorated in 2 ways:

According to the frame.
Directly on the wall or ceiling.

The frame is usually made of galvanized metal thin-walled profile, but it can also be made of wood. When fastening sheets without a profile, special glue and dowels with self-tapping screws are used.

GKL sheathing on a frame: technology

When attaching material using a frame, it is very important to mount it correctly.

The guides attached to the walls must be strictly vertical, as well as the intermediate racks.
The distance between the centers of the posts should be 600 mm, i.e. such that the joint of the sheets falls on the profile.
To strengthen the structure, you can reduce the size to 400 mm.
If it is necessary to join sheets vertically, install a horizontal profile to tie 2 sheets together.
TO metal frame Drywall is fastened with black metal screws, 25-32 mm long, and to wood - with wood screws of the same length.
To improve the strength and insulating properties, lining with sheets in 2 layers is possible. In this case, the sheets are sewn in a checkerboard pattern.

How to sew drywall without frame

GCR without using a frame can be fixed with special glue or mechanically, using dowels and self-tapping screws. It is possible to combine these 2 methods by first securing the sheets to adhesive composition, and after it dries - onto the screws. At the same time, it is important to fasten the drywall with hardware in those places where the glue is applied, and not between them, because the coating can be deformed and even broken.

GCR decor

Walls and ceilings made of plasterboard are painted, covered with wallpaper, plain or for painting, and finished with decorative plaster compositions. The walls are tiled tiles, decorative bricks, stone, etc.

Suspension

On plasterboard walls You can only hang light objects, such as photographs, decorative shelves, lightweight mirrors. To screw self-tapping screws into gypsum boards, special dowels are used: driva, molly or “butterflies”. Provided that the location of the profile is known exactly, you can tighten metal screws for hanging various items directly into the frame elements. For attaching heavier objects (cabinets or bookshelves), it is necessary to arrange special mortgages.

Do-it-yourself profile mounting technology on walls

To install a false plasterboard wall, you will need the following tools:

Tape measure, square, pencil.
Level.
Plumb.
Thread (lace).
Metal scissors or grinder.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Pliers.
Profile cutter.
Construction knife.
Planer for drywall.
Putty knife.

Materials:

Guide profile PN.
PS rack profile or PP ceiling profile.
The suspension is straight.
Single-level connector (crab).
Dowels.
Self-tapping screws for wood and metal, black.
self-tapping screws for thin plates with a press washer, pointed (bugs).
Damper tape.
Serpyanka tape or paper tape for joints.
Putty.

Methods of fastening with dowels: how to install

A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the future wall, and a guide profile is placed on it. The frame element is installed on the floor in the form of an inverted letter “P”, secured with self-tapping screws to wooden floor or with dowels and screws for concrete. After that, the guide is attached to the ceiling strictly vertically above the floor profile, then the guides are attached to the walls.

Strict verticality must be observed, unless otherwise provided by the design.

How to choose fasteners for brick, concrete and wooden walls

To attach hangers and guides to the walls, you may need various hardware, depending on the material of the walls. TO wooden walls The frame elements are fastened with wood screws. For installation on brick or concrete surfaces You need to use dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel nails. The use of dowel-nails increases the speed of work, but they are more difficult to dismantle if necessary to remake the structure

How to mount and lay the profile correctly

After installing the guides around the perimeter, mark the location of the rack profiles. Usually they are placed at a distance of 600 mm between centers, so that the vertical joints of the sheets fall exactly in the middle of the profile. To give the frame greater rigidity, reduce the distance to 400 mm. Vertical lines are drawn from the obtained points, and straight hangers are attached to them in increments of 400-500 mm. Insert the rack profile cut to size with its ends into the guides on the floor and ceiling.

The rack profile should be cut 5-6 mm shorter than the distance between the floor and ceiling.

The rack profile is set vertically and attached to the guides with “bugs” or using a cutter, then attached to the hangers, constantly checking the verticality using a level. When all the profiles are secured, you should check the plane using a rule, a long level or a thread. Deviations from the plane of more than 2 mm should be corrected.

At the places where the sheets meet in height, additional horizontal profiles are installed. It is recommended to arrange such joints at the bottom of the wall.

How to screw gypsum board sheets to a frame: installing drywall on walls

Plasterboard sheets are secured using metal screws 25 mm long. The sheet is installed in place, secured to 1 screw, then adjusted to the level and secured to the rest. The fastening pitch should be approximately 200 mm or more often. The hardware is twisted so that the head is flush with the surface of the sheet without breaking through the paper.

The sheet must be fastened in one direction, for example, from left to right, from bottom to top. If you fasten the sheet in different corners, it may bend during further fastening.

First, whole sheets are attached, then parts are cut to size and the remaining parts of the wall are covered. The edges of the cut are processed with a drywall plane.

Before sewing up the wall with sheets, you can lay sound and thermal insulation materials, wiring.

Grouting seams and dowel holes: how to finish them

Seams with a factory chamfer on the wall are taped with sickle tape or paper tape for joints. Seams without chamfer are cut using construction knife. The surface is primed. Seams and recesses from self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum-based putty mixtures. As a rule, the packaging of the material indicates whether it is suitable for sealing gypsum board joints or not.

Cladding and finishing the ceiling in an apartment yourself: what you need

To install a gypsum board ceiling you will need the same tools as for walls. Additionally, you will need a hydraulic level or laser level, a coated marking cord and a T-shaped stand made of bars or profile. It is more convenient to carry out all work on the ceiling with a partner.

How to attach to a concrete base on the ceiling

The locations of the ceiling profiles are marked on the ceiling. They are usually placed along a short wall with a pitch of 600 mm. The most convenient way to do this is with a coated cord. Then the hangers are attached to dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. If the ceiling is lowered to a significant distance from the draft, you need to use special hangers, similar to Armstrong ceiling mounts.

Fastening the guides

Mark the mounting location using laser level or hydraulic level, marking points at the corners of the room at a given height, usually as close as possible to the rough ceiling, and drawing lines using a marking cord. A damper tape is attached to the wall, then guide profiles. A gypsum board ceiling can be lowered for laying insulating materials or installing communications.

How to hang sheets correctly

GKL is attached to the frame, starting from the corner, with the long side along the short wall, parallel ceiling profiles on surface. The most convenient way to fasten the sheets is to support them with a special stand, which you can purchase in a store or make yourself from a block or profile in the shape of the letter “T”. It is recommended to use moisture-resistant plasterboards.

Do not release the sheet until it is secured with at least 15 screws.

Cladding uneven walls with your own hands: what is worth remembering

When covering walls, it is important to maintain verticality and ensure that the profile does not deviate from the plane. If the gypsum board is attached to a wall without a frame, it is important to attach the screws in places where the sheet will not “walk”, otherwise the screws will protrude on the surface. Before covering the walls, it is advisable to sweep or vacuum them and the space behind the frame; it is also recommended to prime them to avoid the appearance of dust.

How to install faster

To increase the speed of installing drywall on the wall, you need to correctly mount the frame and secure the first sheet without deviations in level. Most quickly, such work is carried out by two or three people, when one person is busy installing the sheets in place and cutting them to size, and the remaining 1 or 2 people are busy pulling them through with self-tapping screws. The use of professional screwdrivers with belt feeding of hardware significantly increases the speed of work.

What can be mounted on a plasterboard wall?

With appropriate preparation, almost any objects can be mounted on gypsum board walls, including cabinets and storage water heaters. To do this, during the manufacture of the frame, so-called embedded parts are made of plywood or boards. Lumber is sewn onto the rough wall so that the front surface of the embed is in the same plane as the frame. If the mortgage is deeper than the frame, the wall will push through when attaching hanging objects.

How can you cover plasterboard sheathing?

After sealing the seams and holes from fasteners, a gypsum board wall can be painted or covered with wallpaper, covered with decorative plaster, covered textile wallpaper. Surfaces from moisture-resistant plasterboard It is recommended to cover with a continuous layer of putty, otherwise green color may be visible through the finish coat.

The walls can also be covered with tiles, decorative stone or brick, stucco, panels. It is not necessary to treat seams and marks from self-tapping screws before cladding.

Drywall is a modern finishing material that allows finishing work to be carried out with minimal labor and time costs.