Even a beginner can do pruning a young apple tree! Proper pruning of apple trees in the fall: scheme and timing of work.

One of the most important activities in garden care is pruning. fruit trees. Without annual thinning of the crown, the fruits become smaller and degenerate. The pruning scheme for apple trees and other fruit-bearing trees in spring and autumn is somewhat different; it will be easier to choose the right one after familiarizing yourself with each one. The video presented in the article will allow you to study the process in more detail.

Crown formation is the key to a successful harvest

Like vegetable crops, fruit trees need shaping. A properly formed crown allows you to ensure better penetration sunlight and air to the trunk, roots and fruits. In addition, by pruning an apple tree, a skilled gardener provides himself with access to every branch at the moment when it is time to harvest.

The choice of pattern used when forming and pruning the crown of an apple tree depends on the goals pursued by the gardener. Much also depends on the age of the tree and the degree of thickening of its crown. Most pruning schemes are aimed at:

Pruning primarily improves the health of the tree.

• ease of harvesting;
• strengthening young shoots and growing them in the right direction;
• ensuring ventilation and penetration sunlight to the roots and fruits of the tree;
• removal of dry and damaged branches;
• preparing the tree for the onset of cold weather.

A neglected tree (with a dense crown) does not produce much large fruits. In addition, their total weight at harvest is significantly lower than that of a well-groomed and hand-shaped tree. When trimming excess branches, the nutrients received by the apple tree are redistributed. After formation, the plant directs the bulk of their mass to growing and ripening fruits.

Important! Most often, apple trees are formed in autumn or spring, rarely in summer, in winter - only in case of urgent need.

Age of the tree and its importance when pruning

The formation of the crown of an adult tree directly depends on the correct pruning of a young apple tree. This is what will affect the future productivity of the garden. Depending on the pruning of certain branches, you can get different shape crowns:

• medium-standard;
• fusiform;
• combined;
• sparsely tiered.

Pruning allows you to give the tree crown the desired shape

The easiest to form is the last type of crown. To do this, you need to leave 5 skeletal shoots at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other, and remove the rest. The medium-standard type of crown is also easy to form. It is enough to remove all branches located at a height of 80-110 cm from the soil level. All other shoots are left to develop on their own.

Most suitable period to form young apple tree – early spring. Pruning is done before the growing season begins (before buds appear).

Scheme: pruning a young apple tree

When pruning ripening two-year-old seedling it is necessary to leave 4-5 of the strongest shoots, extending from the trunk at an angle close to straight. The growth point is also pinched at a level that is 4-5 buds higher than all other branches.

After the formation of a two-year-old seedling, it is recommended not to prune the tree for 2-3 years. Otherwise, fruiting may begin much later. But damaged and dried branches should still be removed. It is also necessary to monitor the shape of the crown, maintaining its rounded shape and shortening overgrown branches.

Scheme: pruning a two-year-old seedling

Mature and neglected trees It is better to prune in the fall. You should start by removing damaged and dry branches. Shoots that are directed inside the crown and intersecting branches prevent the formation of young fruit-bearing shoots; they also need to be cut mercilessly. Don’t be afraid to remove large branches: barren ones, they only burden the crown and needlessly absorb nutrients.

If skeletal branches grow incorrectly and make harvesting difficult, they should also be removed. Old apple trees need to open up their crowns. To do this you need to cut top part central branch at a height of at least 3 m above the ground.

The benefits of autumn pruning apple trees

As you know, autumn and spring are the most favorable times of the year for preparing a garden. Autumn pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes. It consists of removing dry and damaged branches, as well as shoots from clear signs diseases.

Autumn pruning will allow the tree to produce a larger harvest next year.

Weakened or infected tree branches can only be identified when the fruits are ripening and harvesting. Such shoots are subject to autumn removal. Also in need of late pruning are “tops” - young branches of an apple tree growing vertically upward. These are barren branches: neither flowers nor fruits form on them. Such shoots contribute to thickening of the crown and general weakening of the apple tree.

Advice! Experienced gardeners advise not to remove all the tops. If there is a shortage of fruiting branches, they are bent down by hanging a load on the edge of the shoot. After a while, a full-fledged fruiting branch will form from the “top”, on which, over time, side shoots and flower stalks.

How to do late autumn pruning

Before you begin, you need to prepare your garden tools. Special attention it is necessary to give treatment to the wounds inflicted on the tree. The best way to help a tree cope with the restoration of a damaged area is the usual Oil paint. Application of another type coloring materials can cause irreparable damage to the apple tree. In some cases, even the death of the plant.

Required tool:

Important! All tools used when pruning wood must be well sharpened. This will avoid “lacerations” and uneven cuts. The neater the cut, the faster and easier the healing process for the tree.

It is necessary to begin work only after the apple tree has shed its leaves. At this time, the tree enters the winter dormancy stage, but is still able to heal wounds from pruning. At the first frost, you should stop working immediately. Frozen sections are extremely difficult to heal. They turn into rotting wounds; it will be very difficult for the tree to recover after such a procedure. This is why winter pruning is not recommended.

Try to make even cuts so that the tree recovers faster

The late pruning scheme is not complicated, but it cannot be called completely simple. In order to autumn work passed successfully, you must adhere to the basic requirements:

1. Broken, damaged and dry branches should be removed first. Also shoots with signs of any diseases.
2. It is imperative to thin out the crown in places where it is thickened. Only strong and even shoots should be left.
3. After completing the work, damaged areas must be carefully treated with garden varnish or oil paint.
4. Cut branches should be collected and burned to avoid contamination of the garden possible pests or fungal diseases that affect weak and damaged shoots.

Scheme: autumn pruning of an adult apple tree

Rules for spring pruning apple trees

Start spring formation young apple trees should coincide with the establishment of warm weather. During the period when the frosts recede and the trees awaken from winter dormancy, the rates of activity in the flow of juices in them and the absorption of nutrients are the highest. It is at this time that it will be easiest for the apple tree to cope with the damage caused by the gardener during pruning.

The rules are simple, but extremely necessary for maintaining the activity and fruiting of apple trees:

When pruning, it is very important to consider the type of growth of the apple tree:

• dwarf and low-growing varieties should be cut to 2-3 eyes;
• medium-sized trees - 4-5 eyes;
• tall - 7 or more ocelli.

Timely pruning and crown formation garden tree It will not only allow you to harvest a full harvest without much difficulty, but will also provide you with large and juicy fruits. If you are in doubt about deleting a particular branch, watch informative videos; they will help you cope with difficulties that arise during the work.

Forming the crown of an apple tree: video

Apple tree pruning: photo

An old friend of mine bought one country cottage area, put it in relative order: cleared it of weeds, garbage and all other “delights” of the life of the previous owners. After some time, I planted half the area of ​​the dacha with seedlings different varieties apple trees from the nursery and... fortunately, I forgot about it (the dacha), wretched...

After a certain amount of time (days, days, years? Guess for yourself!) he calls. There is a lump in my throat, and in my voice there is anxiety and honest bewilderment: “I decided to get married, I brought future wife to the dacha, and there!!! In short, wolves howl, trees fatten, but do not bear fruit, dogs!

The stern silence confirmed my terrible guess! So, in order not to fall into a similar position of a careless groom, we’ll tell you about timely pruning of apple trees in the fall...

What is pruning

Pruning is an ancient surgical technique for caring for fruit trees. It was known back in Ancient Rome.

It was used to remove dried branches that interfere with the normal growth of the fruit tree, as well as to regulate fruiting. The Roman philosopher and agronomist Columella called the pruning operation “forcing fruiting.”

When to prune apple trees in the fall

Autumn pruning of apple trees is carried out after leaf fall and before the onset of the first frost (September-October). In regions with very cold winters autumn pruning are not carried out.

Autumn (sanitary) pruning includes the removal of weak, dried, broken, competing branches. The cut areas must be covered with garden varnish.

Cut branches must be burned in order to prevent the spread of insect pests and the proliferation of pathogens of infectious diseases.

Pruning apple trees in the fall is vital fruit plants. However, attention should be paid to its correct and timely implementation.

In combination with basic techniques for caring for apple trees: spraying, fertilizing, tillage, regular watering, pruning apple trees helps good development plants and ensures a high yield of apples.

Types of apple tree pruning in autumn:

• Light pruning is carried out on young trees (no older than five years old) in order to shorten last year's branches by about a quarter of the length;
• When performing medium pruning, the shoots of the current year on adult apple trees (over five years of age) are shortened by a third;
• Strong (anti-aging) pruning - branches are shortened by half the length of old trees (over twenty years of age)

How to properly prune apple trees in the fall

In gardening practice, there are three ways to prune apple trees in the fall:

• on the ring: used to remove a branch that grows inside the crown; the junction of the branch and the trunk is called a ring;
• on a bud: correction of the direction of branch growth (the outer bud is selected), cutting tool when pruning, it should be directed towards the remaining branch at an angle of 45˚;
• to branch: carried out to transfer the direction of growth of a branch to another, the main branch is removed, and the side one remains

Instructions for Beginners

Apple trees of different ages are pruned as follows:

• It is advisable not to prune annual apple trees at all, since severe frosts can cause severe tissue damage in the cut areas;
• Apple trees from two to four years old are pruned by one quarter of the annual growth;
• Mature apple trees (from four years and older) are pruned by one-third of their annual growth at above-zero temperatures.

Anti-aging pruning of old-growth apple trees is carried out in stages, since the plants need a recovery period after such a traumatic surgical intervention.

In the first year, branches are cut off from the southern side of the trees, in the second year - from the opposite side, and one-year-old vertical shoots are simultaneously removed.

In order to open the center of the crown of an old apple tree, do the following: at about a three-meter height from the soil surface, shorten the central conductor, then remove the internal tops (vertical fattening shoots), cut off only the outer tops (no more than ten pieces), if they are located evenly around the circumference of the tree.

In the future, the external tops are used to produce fruiting branches of the tree.

When carrying out anti-aging pruning, it is necessary to remember that removing two large old branches is much more effective than removing several small ones.

Video for beginners:

• When pruning apple trees, be sure to use well-sharpened garden tools: garden knife, pruning shears, hacksaw. This simple advice will help you avoid causing gross damage to the plant tissues of the fruit tree;
• After pruning, it is necessary to carry out powerful moisture-recharging watering of the apple trees. This will help them withstand severe frosts;
• Pruning apple trees is a surgical technique that is used only in conjunction with all care measures, namely: spraying against pests and diseases, applying fertilizers and fertilizing, using growth and development regulators, regular watering, tilling the soil to maintain optimal air conditions and eliminating weeds. vegetation.

Pruning an apple tree is necessary to obtain tasty and healthy fruits. In addition, regularly carrying out this procedure helps to form the correct crown of the tree. Unfortunately, not all gardeners know how the branches of this fruit crop should be positioned.

The ideal crown of an apple tree is considered to be when all the long branches are located at the bottom. The higher the branches are, the shorter they should be. You will learn how to properly prune an apple tree from this article. In addition, we will consider what time of year is best to carry out pruning, as well as all the subtleties and nuances of the work being carried out.

Purposes of apple tree pruning

Basically, an apple tree is pruned to thin out the crown and increase the yield of the tree. A properly trimmed crown primarily provides the tree with better lighting and ventilation. In addition, taking care of correct location branches, every gardener greatly simplifies his life when it comes time to harvest.

Pruning old apple trees is carried out to rejuvenate the plant. As the tree ages, the old branches stop bearing fruit. To restore fruitfulness to a tree, it is necessary to trim off old, woody branches in order to replace them with young and fruitful shoots.

Thus, when pruning a plant, you need to clearly understand the purpose for which you are carrying out the procedure. The scheme of work execution and the timing of its implementation will depend on this.

Features of spring pruning apple trees

Spring pruning of apple trees is usually carried out before the buds begin to swell. Considering that the apple tree is a frost-resistant garden crop, some gardeners practice removing branches even in winter.

Pruning an apple tree in the spring begins with removing all dried and frozen branches. If this is not done, the plant will waste energy restoring useless branches. As practice shows, frostbitten branches will no longer bear fruit.

The remaining branches are pruned depending on the height of the tree. The taller the apple tree, the more eyes should remain on the branches. To make it more clear, on tall apple trees there should be at least eight buds left after pruning. For dwarf varieties It is enough to leave no more than three eyes.

The ideal crown is laid in three tiers. It is not practical to do more as it will make harvesting very difficult. This is what the crown formation pattern should look like in the spring:

• the first tier consists of three skeletal branches;
• second – 4 main outlets;
• the third - two frame branches.

After the tree lives on your personal plot five years, shorten the main trunk. This type of crown is called tiered; it is considered the most optimal for an apple tree.

Features of summer pruning of apple trees

Summer pruning of apple trees is not very popular among gardeners. But it’s better not to neglect it. In summer, the tree is pruned mainly for sanitary and preventive purposes. By pruning, you help the tree bear fruit better and, at the same time, protect it from pests.

IN summer period the tree crown is corrected. When garden plot becomes covered with foliage, it becomes clearly visible which branches create shading of the crown. They can be either completely removed or shortened to the required length.

In addition, in the warm season, all plants begin to form young shoots. To prevent the growth from gaining strength and growth, it must be pinched. This will slow down the growth of the taps by about two weeks.

Along with pinching, breaking out unnecessary branches is also practiced. Advantage summer scheme pruning is that almost all work can be done without the help of garden tools.

You will have to use pruning shears and a saw if competitive tops are detected. They usually grow vertically upward, thickening the crown and bringing no practical benefit to the tree.

If you do not remove the young shoots in the summer, then after about two years you will have to cut off the already fully formed branches. This in turn stimulates the growth of new shoots. In other words, too much effort will be expended to thin the crown. It is much easier to limit the number of sprouts at the initial stage of their formation.

Features of autumn pruning of apple trees

Pruning an apple tree in the fall is done after the leaves fall from the tree. The purpose of this event is to prepare the plant for hibernation by removing old or exhausted branches.

For beginners it is worth mentioning that All work must be completed before the first frost. Otherwise, the sections may become frostbitten and fester.

The scheme for autumn pruning looks something like this:

1. First of all, large branches that are damaged are removed. The most common injury is when a branch cracks due to the weight of the fruit. Most likely, a cracked branch will freeze in the winter, so it is best to remove it.
2. Before the onset of winter, it is recommended to thin out the crown. On the side where there are many branches, all weak branches are removed, leaving only strong and straight ones.
3. All branches growing at the wrong angle should also be completely removed. Such branches usually break easily under gusts of wind and the weight of precipitation.
4. All cuts made must be treated with special septic tanks.
5. Removed branches must be burned.

Features of pruning an apple tree depending on the age of the tree

Inexperienced gardeners do not see much difference between pruning an old and a young apple tree. Meanwhile, the difference in the work being carried out is simply enormous. It is worth talking in more detail about how to properly prune, taking into account the age of the plant.

Pruning a young apple tree

Pruning of young apple trees is carried out in order to form a crown. It is recommended to prune seedlings in the spring, before the start of the growing season. The easiest way to prune a young tree is to remove all the growth except for the four skeletal branches. They will serve as the basis for the tree crown. The distance between frame bends should be about 40 centimeters.

In the second year after planting, the pruning scheme looks like this: leave about five of the strongest branches and cut them to about 30 centimeters; it is recommended to remove all other branches. The main trunk is also shortened.

Experienced gardeners advise leaving the tree alone for 2-3 years after such pruning. Otherwise, you risk delaying the tree’s fruiting period. But despite this, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the seedling and promptly remove broken shoots.

Pruning an old apple tree

Pruning old apple trees is called rejuvenation. It is carried out with the aim of replacing old branches with young fruitful shoots.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out in late autumn or winter. All old branches that do not bear fruit are removed. Don't be afraid to prune even frame branches. For old apple trees, it is recommended to shorten the upper part of the trunk. This allows you to open the crown and bring the old tree back to life.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that removal from an old tree large quantity branches, can lead it to a depressed state and even to the death of the plant. Therefore, it is recommended to divide the planned work into several stages and carry them out over several years.

Note to the gardener

1. The optimal height of the apple tree should not exceed five meters. If the tree gains greater height, the saturation of the branches with nutrients decreases.
2. Some varieties of apple trees tend to form fruits only on peripheral branches. This leads to the fact that the tree branches cannot withstand the weight and are injured. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to regularly shorten the fruiting branches.
3. If the tree does not bear fruit for a long time, then formative pruning should be stopped. You can give the branches the desired direction of growth using rope extensions.

Remember how you treat your garden is how it will thank you. Carrying out comprehensive care measures garden crops, you can count on not only a bountiful, but also a tasty harvest.

In order for the tree to bear fruit abundantly and annually, it needs to be provided with proper care. The list of the most important measures for caring for crops includes autumn pruning of trees. Correctly carried out pruning will help to increase the vegetative mass of the plant, annual fruiting, as well as increase the yield and improve the quality of the fruit. Today’s material is devoted to pruning apple trees in the fall for beginners (in pictures and diagrams) and the correct formation of the tree crown.

When is the right time to prune an apple tree - in summer, autumn or spring and why?

There is still ongoing debate between theorists and practitioners. There are adherents of both terms of the procedure and both sides provide a lot of arguments in their favor. But while theorists argue, practicing gardeners prune fruit trees at a time that they consider optimal.

Proponents of spring pruning times argue that pruning in the fall leads to the weakening of all fruit crops, since this reduces their winter hardiness. In the fall, they recommend pruning only winter-hardy varieties of apple trees that can easily tolerate frost and are not susceptible to freezing.

There is a controversial opinion that in the autumn it is allowed to prune only apple and pear trees, but stone fruits pruned exclusively in spring.

The most optimal period of time for spring pruning is early spring and before sap flow begins:

• It is better if the period between active sap flow and the pruning procedure is minimal.
• When trimming in early spring The tree’s defenses have already turned on, but pathogenic fungal spores, bacteria and viruses are not yet so active.

When to prune in the fall, the tree’s defenses are inhibited, and pathogenic microflora abound. In addition, if in the fall you are a little late with the pruning procedure, the wounds on the tree will not have time to heal and the cambium will freeze out in winter.

Thus, most of Farmers prefer to prune apple trees in the spring. And they turn to autumn pruning only when they have a shortage of time in the spring or when they are pruning winter-hardy varieties apple trees

Why is the procedure needed?

We talk so much about the timing of pruning fruit trees, but novice gardeners may quite reasonably ask the question: why is this procedure necessary at all? After all, no one prunes wild apple trees, but they live and bear fruit normally.

They also say that some gardeners, not wanting to injure the trees, refuse the pruning procedure, and then are sincerely surprised at the poor apple yield. Subsequently, they then have to saw off thick branches, causing even more significant wounds to the tree.

Thus, pruning is a mandatory activity that must be started on the day the seedling is planted. The procedure for pruning an apple tree in the fall has the following goals:

• correct crown formation;
• giving the tree a certain height;
• strengthening branches;
• increasing productivity;
• optimization of lighting of all branches;
• cutting out old, damaged and non-fruiting branches;
• increasing the size and quality of apples;
• ensuring air exchange inside the crown;
• facilitating the work of caring for and harvesting crops;
• rejuvenation of aged trees;
• prevention of common diseases;
• increasing the winter hardiness of apple trees;
• extending the life of the tree and its fruiting.

Important! If you neglect pruning, the apple tree will bloom every year, but the harvest will be defective or will consist of small fruits.

Timing of pruning

IN autumn terms It is recommended to start pruning when all the leaves have fallen from the trees. To perform the procedure, you need to choose a dry and clear day with a positive temperature. If the temperature drops to minus 5 degrees, pruning is strictly prohibited. In frosty weather, injuries to apple trees increase due to the fact that their branches become fragile and brittle.

In autumn, pruning of apple trees is allowed in almost all regions. The procedure in the southern regions and in areas with temperate climate carried out after waiting for the leaves to fall. The whole of September and the first 10 days of October can be used for pruning in the northern regions.

After pruning, the tree should have enough time for the wounds left from the procedure to heal.

Late varieties of apple trees in areas with harsh climates should be pruned in spring.

By region

In different climatic regions of the country, tree pruning in the fall is performed in approximately the same way. The only difference in the formation of the crown is that in harsh climatic conditions it should be located lower than in areas with a warm climate.

But the completion times vary slightly. Each specific location has its own optimal dates for performing this procedure. Let's see when gardeners in the regions start pruning apple trees in the fall.

1. Siberia and the Urals. In these areas, great care is taken when pruning apple trees in the fall. Cuts do not always have time to heal before the arrival of frost. tissue damaged by frost may become dead. It is better to carry out this work in the spring.
2. Middle zone and Moscow region. Work is carried out from mid-September to October 15.
3. In the south of the country. In the regions and territories of southern Russia, the pruning procedure for apple trees is carried out during October and ends until mid-November.
4. European part of Russia. In this area, the autumn pruning procedure is carried out from October 15 to November 5.
5. Ukraine, Belarus. In these countries, pruning of apple trees in the fall is planned for September - October.
6. Leningrad region. Tree pruning in the region begins in the fall after leaf fall, which corresponds to approximately mid-October. The work must be completed before the November holidays.
7. Eastern Siberia. In these endless Siberian regions, pruning is carried out from the beginning of September to the end of the first ten days of October.
8. Far East. Apple trees are also successfully grown on the eastern outskirts of vast Russia. They are pruned there from August 25 to September 15.

According to the lunar calendar 2018

Apple trees, like others plant organisms, in their development depend on lunar cycles. If you are doing gardening work If you are used to being guided by the lunar calendar, then do the pruning on the waning Moon. Wounds received by the apple tree during pruning during this period heal quickly because sap flow is minimal.

There is no need to prune apple trees during the full moon or new moon, otherwise the plants will become sick for a long time after that. Pruning carried out during the waxing Moon leads to severe stress trees, which is also very bad.

Thus, when determining the day for pruning, it is necessary to take into account the season of the year, air temperature and phase of the moon.

Favorable days for autumn pruning in 2018 lunar calendar should be considered:

• September: 1, 6–7, 15–16, 26–28;
• October: 2–5, 8, 12–13, 25, 29–31;
• November: 4–5, 9–10, 25-28

• September: 2, 9, 25;
• October: 1, 9, 24;
• November: 1, 7, 23.

Types of pruning

Over a long period of growing pome trees, we have accumulated a lot of experience in pruning apple trees in the fall. The crown of an apple tree can be shaped various methods, For example:

• lobed;
• oblique palmette;
• sparsely tiered;
• fusiform;
• horizontal palmette;
• Taganrog boat.

This list can scare any novice gardener, so we will not describe the above methods in detail, but will limit ourselves to general principles pruning and shaping apple trees. This stock of knowledge will be sufficient to independently form a healthy and fruit-bearing tree.

Trimming methods

When performing pruning, 2 options are usually used:

• shortening - cutting off part of a branch;
• thinning - removing a branch completely.

Shortening always leads to increased growth of new shoots and branching. After severe pruning, as a rule, 3-4 strong shoots grow. And as a result of weak pruning, fewer short branches grow.

Thinning optimizes crown lighting and makes it possible sun rays penetrate inside and illuminate all the branches that grow inside the crown.

Trim levels

Practicing gardeners distinguish 3 degrees of pruning of fruit trees:

Typically, well-groomed mature apple trees are pruned moderately or lightly. Severe pruning, in which many branches are removed, is necessary for neglected apple trees.

Advice! If the seedling you started pruning is less than 90 cm long, then simply pinch off the top.

Types of pruning

In practice, one usually resorts to one of the following types trims:

1. Formative. It begins immediately after planting the seedling and continues for about 5 years. The purpose of this procedure is to form a frame of the required shape from the branches of the skeleton.
2. Regulating fruiting. As a result of this operation, a balance is achieved between the annual growth of branches and yield.
3. Sanitary. The goal is to remove dry, diseased and broken branches.
4. Restorative. Such pruning is used when it is necessary to restore the crown of an apple tree that has suffered from frostbite or mechanical damage.
5. Rejuvenating. This is carried out to prevent the cessation of shoot growth and the continuation of fruiting. This pruning can make shoots grow even on very old apple trees.

Annual pruning of an apple tree in the fall, which gardeners perform, usually combines all of the above types. We shape a young apple tree to a greater extent, rejuvenate an old tree, and regulate fruiting in a middle-aged apple tree.

There is a radical way of rejuvenation, when the old tree is cut off completely, diagonally at a height of 1 meter from the ground. Then side shoots will appear, which can become skeletal branches.

Step-by-step pruning instructions

It is important to master pruning techniques, since mistakes in this matter are fraught unpleasant consequences. Below we will tell you about pruning an apple tree in the fall for beginners in pictures and photos.

Trimming tools

To carry out the work you will need the following tools and substances:

• pruner;
• sharp knife;
• hacksaw;
• pruning shears with extended handles;
• step ladder;
• oil paint or garden varnish.

Before starting pruning work, be sure to sharpen your tools thoroughly. It is impossible to carry out the procedure efficiently with blunt instruments.

Pruning rules

When performing work, you must strictly adhere to the rules of autumn pruning. Why is it necessary to know the structure of a fruit tree?

Here are the apple tree branches that need to be removed when pruning:

1. All broken, broken, diseased and dried branches should be cut out (sanitary pruning). They need to be trimmed down to healthy wood.
2. You should also remove all vertically growing shoots, which are also called tops. They are completely useless, since they do not produce fruits.
3. It is necessary to annually remove all shoots growing below the 1st tier of skeletal type branches. They spoil appearance apple trees and shade the fruiting branches.
4. It is imperative to get rid of crooked shoots, branches growing at intersections with others, as well as branches with the direction of growth inward of the crown.
5. Branches growing at an angle of less than 45 degrees are completely useless. If there is a good load of harvest, they may break off. They should also be cut out.

To summarize the above, it turns out that when thinning an apple tree in the fall, it is necessary to remove all branches that interfere with other promising branches, shading them and interfering with air exchange inside the crown.

To ensure good branching and stimulate fruit formation, all extension branches must be shortened to a bud.

Do not shorten branches whose length does not exceed 40 cm and if generative buds are formed at their ends. This will reduce next year's harvest. Only branches 50 cm long or longer that have vegetative buds are pruned.

It is also important to cut out competing branches. In this way, age branches are replaced with new ones, pruning them for transfer.

Apple tree pruning technique

To correctly perform the operation of removing unnecessary branches garden tools, you need to master the pruning technique.

When cutting a branch, the blade of the pruner or lopper should be at the bottom. If you hold it backwards, then this is incorrect use of the tool.

Trimming to ring

When you prune an entire branch, you are pruning into a ring.

When pruning into a ring, the unnecessary branch is completely removed in the place from which it grows. Over time, this place will be covered with tree bark and it will seem as if there was no branch there.

Particular care must be taken when cutting thick branches into rings. In this case, cuts must be made in 3 steps; only with this approach the branch will be neatly cut, without tearing the bark.

• Start from the bottom of the branch, sawing it by a third of its diameter.
• The second cut is made on top and slightly higher than the first.
• The remaining stump after two cuts is removed with the third pass. Cut off from above, along the ring, leaving the cambial lining.

Bud pruning

In the case when only part of the shoot is removed, this is called bud pruning.

The point of pruning to a bud is that in some cases, when it is useful, not to cut out a promising branch entirely, but to cut it to the outer bud, changing the direction of growth.

It is also important to understand that more than 33% of the crown cannot be removed in one warm season, especially when it comes to old trees on which rejuvenating pruning is performed.

When forming the crown, adhere to the principle of subordination of branches. According to it, all lateral skeletal branches cannot be higher than the main branch.

Video: pruning a young apple tree seedling

Rules for coating cuts

To prevent dripping moisture from getting onto the cut, rotting, he's being covered up by special means.

in autumn effective means Oil paint is considered to be used for coating wounds on apple trees. If you use garden varnish or a special “RanNet” paste instead, then with the arrival of severe frosts they may lose their state of aggregation and peel off. These products are very suitable for spring pruning of apple trees.

If the cut is less than 3 cm in diameter, then it is not necessary to process it. And on the cuts larger diameter you can limit yourself to coating only the edges to protect the cambium from drying out. It is imperative to carefully process the cuts that are made on the ring on the trunk or skeletal branches.

Is pruning different for different types?

All the subtleties of pruning apple trees in the fall, which we described in other sections of this article, apply to a greater extent to trees grown on vigorous rootstocks. However, there are also other types of apple trees, such as dwarf or columnar ones.

Dwarf apple trees

If trees on dwarf rootstocks are planted in the fall, then the next morning they should be pruned, laying the foundation for further crown formation. All branches are made shorter by one third of the length.

During the pruning process, the following principles are taken into account:

• if the roots of the seedling are underdeveloped, then the branches are shortened by a third of the length, and if they look quite good, then you can limit yourself to cutting the shoots to one quarter of the length;
• next year, stepping back from the standard by 30 cm, pruning the branches of the 1st order;
• External buds are left under the cuts so that branches of the second order will subsequently develop from them;
• autumn rejuvenation of dwarf apple trees is carried out in more early dates than in vigorous trees;
• after 5 years, the yield may drop and the intensity of shoot regrowth may decrease - this means that rejuvenation needs to be done again;
• during repeated rejuvenation, branches that have arisen over the past 3 years are removed;
• pruning of such branches is carried out to a healthy branch of the 2nd order, which must subsequently replace the removed branch;
• as a result of repeated rejuvenation, the crown is greatly renewed, there will be slightly fewer apples, but they will be large in size.

Columnar

This type of apple tree appeared relatively recently and they are distinguished by the fact that they have practically no side branches. If the tree does not have lush crown, all nutrients go to fruit filling.

There are a lot of fruits on such apple trees and they all differ in size. In mid-summer, columnar apple trees need to be watered every week and must be tied up. Otherwise, the stems of the tree may break off under the weight of the fruit.

At the apple trees similar type The main stem cannot be cut because it is the only one. When rejuvenating such apple trees, only competitive shoots with an apical bud are removed. When rejuvenating aged columnar trees, a radical approach is used - their trunk is shortened, leaving 80 cm in length.

Pruning apple trees in the fall should be done gradually:

1. In the first year of life - in the fall - the side shoots that appear must be removed. After pruning, stumps with 2 buds should remain.
2. Next year, strong branches will appear from such buds.
3. In the fall, a year later, of the two existing shoots, one is left - the most horizontal one. Vertical shoots are cut off again, leaving stumps with 2 buds. The main trunk is not touched.
4. In the third autumn, the branch on which the harvest was harvested last year is cut off. Two shoots of the current year are pinched according to last year's pattern.

In order to finally form the crown of a columnar apple tree, it will take from 3 to 5 years. In the 6th year and beyond, pruning will consist of removing mature branches and shoots that thicken the crown. This pruning will stimulate the growth of new shoots and increase the yield of the apple tree.

Pruning according to age

As we have already noted, for the correct formation of the crown of an apple tree, it must be pruned annually. Both young and old apple trees need pruning.

The age of the apple trees determines the pruning options used to form young plant or rejuvenation of the age tree. Read on to learn how 1-4 year old apple trees, as well as older fruit trees, are formed.

Pruning young apple trees

How to prune an apple tree in the fall (by year):

Sapling (first year)

Immediately on the day of planting or the following spring, cut off the top of the main branch into 4 buds, leaving a height of 90 cm. Thanks to this, the young tree will have branches of the 1st tier.

Second year

In the 2nd year, the resulting side branches of the tree are cut off by a quarter. Pruning is carried out on a bud that is not directed deep into the crown. You need to leave the 4 most strong escape, directed in all directions, the rest are cut into a ring.

The top of the main shoot, 70 cm from the place where the first tier branches, is also subject to pruning. This is necessary for the 2nd tier of skeletal type branches to begin to appear.

The distance between the 1st and 2nd tiers is taken to be 65 cm, and between the second and next tier should be 40 cm. The distance between the branches of one tier should be about 10 cm.

Third year

In the 3rd year, you must again begin to shorten the side branches by a third. In addition, also by one third, branches of the 2nd order are cut off per bud. Of the branches of the 2nd order, only 4 should be left, also shortening them by a third.

The top of the main trunk is also pruned, but only 40 cm from the 2nd tier to enable the tree to form a 3rd tier of skeletal branches. The apple tree should have only one main trunk; all other trunks vying for this role should be cut into a ring.

Fourth year

The 4th year of a seedling’s life is the final one if you form an apple tree in 3 tiers. This time they do everything the same as in the third year. There is only one exception: the top is cut into a ring and transferred to a side branch.

Fifth year and older

At 5 and up next years it is necessary to move on to rejuvenation, without consigning sanitary and thinning pruning to oblivion.

Rejuvenation of an aged apple tree

The point of rejuvenating pruning of an apple tree in the fall is that old branches are cut out and replaced with new, more promising shoots.

Important! Rejuvenation of mature trees that are more than 5 years old should be carried out slowly over a number of years. There is no need to cut out all the branches that seem unnecessary to you in one go.

Algorithm for autumn pruning of an aged apple tree:

• remove all broken, dried and diseased branches;
• then they get rid of the branches of the lower tier, which, under the weight of the harvest, can touch the ground;
• cut into a ring all the branches that grow inside the crown, compete with each other, and also cross;
• remove branches growing vertically, which are also called tops;
• pinch out shoots of the current season that are larger than 50 cm.

Pruning to the ring is performed only when they want to transfer to lateral branching. This is how rejuvenating pruning is carried out, replacing old branches with young ones.

Common mistakes made by beginners when pruning in autumn

When performing such work, beginners often make the same mistakes. It happens that mistakes are even made experienced gardeners. Below we have provided a list of the most typical mistakes performed when pruning an apple tree in the fall.

Bud pruning

Not all people perform this operation on an apple tree correctly. Often, farmers are careless and cut below the bud or leave a stump that is too long.

• In the first case, the bud will freeze in winter and a shoot will not grow from it in the spring.
• And in the second option, the left stump will begin to rot and because of this, an infection will strike the tree. The cut should be made slightly above the bud so that the top of the bud is at the same level with it.

Trimming to ring

When performing this operation, inaccuracies are also allowed. Beginning gardeners often leave a stump that is too long, from which useless shoots then grow, consuming expensive food. Over time, this stump also begins to rot, infecting the entire tree.

Another group of inexperienced garden owners prune too low, removing the ring - this mistake is even more serious.

Not optimal pruning time

A number of farmers perform pruning not when it is recommended, but when they have free time to carry out this operation. Those who carry out this work at the zenith of summer greatly weaken the apple tree and slow down its development.

Pruning must be done in autumn time, after leaf fall, or even better in early spring, before the buds awaken.

Violation of pruning technology

Not all gardeners remove what is needed when pruning an apple tree in the fall. For inexperienced people, after performing the procedure, disease-affected, dried and broken branches may remain on the tree. Other farmers may leave a lot of extra branches shading the crown. All these branches must be cut out.

The futility of filling

Old apple trees may develop hollows over time. Those people who make mistakes are those who clean the hollow down to healthy tissue, and then fill it with foam, concrete or fragments of brick. Because of this, rotting processes are accelerated and the lifespan of the apple tree is reduced.

Pruning skeletal branches covered with moss

Some dacha owners, as soon as they see such a picture, begin to cut out rather thick skeletal branches covered with moss, believing that this is harmful to the apple tree. Mosses do not harm the apple tree, but rather provide benefits.

And when thin branches are completely covered with moss, then you need to start rejuvenating pruning.

Bugs on a columnar apple tree

When pruning a columnar apple tree, one of the most repeated mistakes is leaving a large number of fruit-bearing branches. If these branches are not replaced with younger ones within 4 years, the yield will drop sharply and the apple tree will become susceptible to disease.

Natalya, a specialist on the Garden World channel, talks about proper pruning of an apple tree in the fall for beginners. And first of all, oh common mistakes during the procedure. Watch the video below:

Apple tree care after pruning

Autumn care consists of a certain cycle of activities carried out after pruning. Some strict deadlines similar work no, it is important to have time to complete the entire list of work before the onset of winter. Essentially this work consists of 3 stages:

• trunk processing;
• tillage;
• application of fertilizers.

Barrel processing

This work, in turn, consists of 3 stages:

• removal of mosses and lichens, if any;
• pest control;
• whitewashing tree bark.

If mosses and lichens have become widespread, measures must be taken to remove them. You can clean them with a plastic scraper and then process them copper sulfate and cover with garden varnish.

• Aktara;
• Decis;
• Karbofos.

Against scab and other fungal diseases, you can perform preventive spraying with the following means:

• urea (500 g per 10 liters of water);
• copper sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water);
• soda ash plus laundry soap(400 g of soda, 50 g of soap and 10 l of water).

On final stage working with wood, you need to whitewash its trunk. The whitewash composition is prepared from the following ingredients:

• lime – 3 kg;
• copper sulfate – 500 g;
• wood glue – 200 g;
• water – 10 l.

The tree trunk and its 1st order branches should be whitened. After which it would not be amiss to wrap the tree trunk with roofing material. It will be additional protection from mice.

In autumn, apple tree trunks and skeletal branches should be whitened with lime. This is the simplest and effective protection trees from burns and rodents.

Tillage

• cleaning up fallen rotten apples and leaves;
• autumn digging of the soil;
• mulching the ground surface.

Under apple trees, you need to remove carrion and fallen leaves, since they usually overwinter under them. harmful insects. Next, you need to dig up the tree trunk circles to a depth of 20 cm. Immediately after digging, the soil should be mulched with a 10 cm layer of rotted manure or compost.

Feeding in autumn

It is believed that applying fertilizers at these times increases the winter hardiness of apple trees. For autumn digging of soil, the following should be added per m2 of area:

• humus – 6 kg;
• superphosphate – 100 g;
• Potassium sulfate – 100 g.

Having done all the above work, you can be sure that you have well prepared the apple trees for existence in winter conditions.

Video from the Garden World channel

Only by arming yourself with the necessary knowledge, having become acquainted with the experience of successful gardeners, having studied pruning patterns and the rules for forming the crown of apple trees depending on their age, will you be able to correctly perform autumn pruning of fruit trees. Take into account our recommendations for pruning an apple tree in the fall for beginners in pictures and diagrams. Follow them and then you will definitely get the desired result.