Peach pruning is a painstaking and obligatory process. Pruning peach in spring: description and video for beginners

This is due to the fact that overgrown peach, apricot and nectarine trees are depleted under the load of exorbitantly high yields without rationing. Pests that like to settle on such weak and dense plants are no less destructive for unkempt trees. Pruning needs to be given almost everything free time, especially in summer.

Features and timing of pruning: when to start

Peach trees of any age are pruned throughout the growing season and even before sap flow begins. In certain periods, emphasis is placed on thinning and crown formation (as a rule, this is spring or autumn pruning), or on normalizing the yield (summer pruning).

There is an opinion among gardeners that peaches need to be pruned like grapes, that is, green shoots should be removed almost every month, and then the shoots and branches should be completely pruned in the fall. In the spring, it is customary to remove those branches that are frozen or have received severe mechanical damage in winter.

How to trim a peach in spring (video)

Spring pruning

In spring, peach pruning is aimed at forming the crown. Any operations to shorten and complete removal It is recommended to carry out the cutting of branches and shoots on a peach in the spring before the buds begin to awaken, that is, in February. This allows you to avoid gum disease, which often leads to the death of trees.

The pruning pattern may be different, depending on the desired shape of the tree, but all actions must comply with generally accepted standards.

On young trees, branches are cut into rings, leaving 3-4 to form the skeleton. At the same time, young growth is left on them. The essence of this pruning is that the peach bears fruit on 2 or 3 year old shoots. It is important to preserve them, as well as stimulate the formation of new growth. In the second year, after the tree has been planted, a second tier of 5 branches is formed, and the rest are shortened by a third of their length. In subsequent years, the formation of the crown continues, gradually removing excess shoots that thicken the crown and are damaged by frost and pests.

Summer pruning

Not all gardeners practice pruning in the summer, but it is used to normalize the yield and sanitization trees. The scheme of work should be as follows:

thinning branches that do not bear fruit this year by cutting them into rings (only the strongest shoots are left);
removal of dried branches;
removal of green shoots growing inside the crown or extending from the main ones at an angle of less than 45 degrees;
shortening branches that are too heavily loaded with fruits.

How to form a cupped peach crown (video)

Caring for peach after pruning

After pruning, the peach needs close attention from the gardener. It is important in the first minutes after removing the branches to treat the wounds with garden varnish or other composition that prevents the wood from drying out and microorganisms and pests from entering it. During this period, the plant also needs abundant watering, especially if the weather is dry and hot, as well as fertilizing with nitrogen (for spring pruning) or complex potassium-phosphorus (for autumn pruning) fertilizers.

Successful cultivation peach is based not so much on proper nutrition tree, how much is needed to form a bush. Even with a lack of mineral components in the soil, regular fruiting can be achieved if you focus on regulating the number of branches of the fruiting and crown-forming type.

One of the mandatory tree care techniques is pruning peach trees in spring, summer and autumn. The tree needs maximum lighting, but grows the ground part intensively. As a result, the crown thickens due to branches without crops, and there is not enough light. Pruning regulates the shape of the tree and removes fattening undergrowth. The forces of the tree are directed to the formation of the harvest.

What determines the choice of crown shape?

Peach is a heat-loving tree. With the help of breeding achievements, varieties have been obtained that have advanced middle lane Russia and Trans-Urals. However, the tree cannot withstand stable frosts without shelter - the branches freeze and the roots are affected. If you cover a tree early, the bark will support it. During winter thaws, sap flow may begin in the middle of winter.

From climatic features It depends on how to properly trim a peach and what crown shape to choose:

Cup-shaped tiered crown is used in areas with warm climates and mild winters.
The formation of a “fruit link” creates a creeping trunk of two skeletal branches that bear fruit alternately. The planting is thickened, otherwise called “meadow garden”, and is used in cold climates for shelter.
The shape of the bush represents several of the most developed shoots from the ground, which are cut out after they have fruited. This form of peach is often used in the Moscow region.

The timing of peach pruning in spring depends on the climatic characteristics of the region. In cold winters, when there is a danger of frostbite, the first pruning from spring is postponed until the leaves have blossomed - it becomes clear how much the affected branches need to be pruned.

Tree Formation Problems

Pruning is carried out to increase the yield of the tree and extend its productive life. Nutrients, extracted from the soil by the roots, are distributed evenly along the trunk. At the same time, branches without fruits grow faster, thickening the crown. The tree inside is exposed, and the yield is minimal. If the young branches do not grow, fruiting will stop.

Pruning is done in order to:

improve lighting and ventilation of the tree;
facilitate harvesting;
stimulate the formation of fruitful shoots;
remove old branches, rejuvenating the tree;
give the desired shape to the crown.

There are several types of pruning, each of which is performed at a specific time. The ground part is formed from several types of growth: growth generative and annual bouquet branches. Mixed and tops are also branches, but you can’t expect a harvest from them.

Pruning peaches in the spring forms a trunk of the desired shape from the seedling, before fruiting begins and in subsequent years. Throughout the growing season, sanitary pruning is carried out - removing frost-damaged or broken branches. Thinning also belongs to this type. peach tree, removal of fattening branches. forms a crown young tree and shortens some of the fruiting branches so that new shoots develop on them. This type of care is called shaping pruning.

Pruning peach trees in the spring is the most crucial period for beginning gardeners. You cannot be late; if there is strong sap flow, the operation is not performed. The tree must be formed according to the scheme, thinning out but leaving fruitful shoots with buds. Of course, vertical branches growing on skeletal branches at a distance of 1 meter from the tree trunk should be removed to the ring. It happens that when the lower tier is very sparse, such branches are rejected by gradual pruning to the outer eye. The effect is complemented by pulling the branch down with a rope.

If old branches give little growth, they are removed using rejuvenating pruning. It is important that rejuvenation is carried out over several years, gradually. You cannot cut too much wood at the same time; the tree will die.

The sequence of formation of various types of crowns

Pruning is carried out in dry weather. At the same time, the root shoots are removed.

The pattern for pruning a peach with a bowl is typical for giving it a spreading shape with controlled upward growth.

When planting a seedling, all branches on the trunk are removed 50 cm from the ground. Leave 3-4 branches, which will be skeletal for the lower tier. Pinch the top growth point. Next spring, the grown shoots are shortened by a third, and second-order branches are formed on them. In the third year on this tier, all branches growing deep or horizontally are removed.

As it grows, a second tier of 5 skeletal branches is formed, but the top is constantly pruned to limit growth. But she is left with 2 kidneys. After 5 years, a properly formed tree has 2 fruit tiers, sparse branches and a height of no more than 3 meters.

When the crown is formed by a bush, there is no central conductor. The bush is formed from the 4 lower branches as soon as the seedling is placed in place. This landing guarantees fast recovery, even if part of the wood freezes. The bush needs enough light, since there are few branches. In summer, such twigs are pinched to 30-40 cm to create a new wave of growth of young shoots for next year's harvest.

The formation of the fruit unit is a creeping form, the branches are easy to cover for the winter. Peaches are planted densely - 2 x 0.5 m, so that no more than 15 fruits are obtained from each tree. The first year the peach is allowed to grow and gain strength. In spring, the seedling is pruned, leaving 2 branches close to the ground. One branch will produce a harvest, the second will be a safety branch. They are changed every year.

In summer, one branch is covered with young fruit branches that will produce a harvest. The second branches are pruned. On each branch, 2 branches are left, closest to the trunk, to continue the development of the tree. After harvesting, the old branch is cut off. During this time, replacement branches grew. It turns out to be a creeping bush.

Formative care for peach in summer

Summer is a period when weekly care with pinching, pinching or removing 10 cm of shoots can reduce injury from pruning in the fall and spring.

Pruning a peach in summer is the most gentle operation. Only in summer can you see if there are frostbitten branches on the tree. They must be removed; the wood is no longer able to support sap flow. In summer, young shoots that grow inside the crown are removed. When the fruits grow to 1 cm in cross section, it is necessary to remove excess ovaries. It is considered correct if an adult tree has 80 abundantly fruiting branches or 200 low-fruiting branches. The fewer fruits there are on the tree, the larger and sweeter they will be. Summer pruning of peach regulates the harvest and prevents thickening of the tree.

Autumn tree pruning

After harvesting, they begin to prepare for rest. Until November, the tree gradually reduces sap flow. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove broken branches and shorten some of the fruiting branches. At this time, the movement of sap is less, the wounds do not get wet, and the tree does not receive severe stress.

Peach pruning in autumn is carried out from September to October 15. There is no need to tighten it; each pruning weakens the tree. He needs to go into the winter strong.

Only caring for the peach throughout the growing season forms the correct crown with the least stress. Every cut is surgery associated with the introduction of diseases into an open wound.

A new way to prune peach in summer - video

Peach - ancient culture, whose homeland is considered northern China. The main peach plantings are concentrated in the subtropics and warm regions of the Caucasus, European and Asian countries. The peach culture entered the expanses of the southern and some middle regions in the second half of the last century. There is currently a real peach boom going on. Many gardeners prefer peaches to apricots. Peaches are more tolerant of spring frosts. The advantages of peach also include the possibility of obtaining a full harvest with the inheritance of maternal characteristics (large fruit, taste of pulp, aroma, etc.) when propagated by seeds. In our article we will talk about pruning peach trees in the spring. In our article we will talk about spring pruning of peach.

Benefits of peach pruning in spring

You can hear from gardeners that peach pruning in the spring is mandatory. But why? What makes it special? The fact is that this tree loves light and warmth. At low temperatures, in the shade it will not bear fruit and will quickly die, but in a sunny place, in warmth, it begins to ripen instantly. Kidneys are formed in short time, as well as sprouts. After a successful winter, more than 1000 ovaries can ripen on a tree. If pruning is not carried out, it will become a big burden for the tree and will reduce its resistance to diseases and pests. But, in addition, such a peach will have very small fruits of poor quality and taste.

The benefits of pruning peach trees in spring are as follows:

Increasing the duration of fruiting.
Decoration of a tree.
Maintaining the balance of the root system and crown.
Earlier flowering and faster fruit set.

Latest articles about gardening

Attention! Peach responds very painfully to cuts, so use a sharp and well-sanitized tool. Do not saw the branches, they need to be cut in one motion, and the removal area should be lubricated with a garden decoction.

Spring period suitable for peach pruning

Spring pruning experienced gardeners plan for a short period between the swelling of the buds and the beginning of flowering. For each variety of peaches, this vegetative stage begins in different time. Usually, a suitable period of time is limited to a short interval, therefore, if you notice increasing pinkish buds on the tree, you should immediately begin pruning.

Tools for pruning peach in spring

When pruning such a delicate tree as a peach, you should always remember that it reacts very painfully to cuts, and therefore pruning is done carefully and every step is thought out. Tools that will be used to trim peach must be disinfected in a solution of Bordeaux mixture. All wounds and cuts of wood should be immediately covered with garden varnish. Tools used for peach pruning must be in good working order, stored in a dry place, and free of rust; they must be sharpened before starting work. When conducting gardening work technical safety rules must be strictly observed.

When pruning peach trees, the following set of gardening supplies may come in handy:

1) Secateurs. It is used to remove thin branches that look like scissors with a curved blade. There are two types of pruning shears: with a parallel blade (used for any type of tree pruning) and one-sided cutting (used for pruning shoots and thinning the crown).

2) Lopper. Outwardly it resembles a pruning shear with long handles. They remove branches located at the very top.

3) Garden saw. Its length is 35 cm, the teeth are hardened, and it has a crescent shape.

4) Chainsaw. It is convenient to carry out large volumes of work; trees can be trimmed without the use of ladders, even at a height of five meters.

5) Using a garden knife, cut off one-year-old growths, remove green shoots of a young tree, and clean up places where they were broken or cut.

6) A hedge trimmer is used to trim bushes and hedges; it is excellent for crown formation. Brush cutters are differentiated by engine type. They are fuel, electric or battery.

7) The shredder is used for processing garden waste. It is very convenient for them to dispose of cut branches, leaves, and weeds. As a final result, this garbage is used to mulch the tree trunk circle and row spacing. They come in two types: gasoline and electric.

How to properly prune a peach in spring: diagram

The formation of the tree occurs according to the largest cup-shaped system. It should be well adapted and directed towards warmth and light. The height of the trunk is at least 50 centimeters. The crown is made up of four branches. After the skeletal branches are selected, the conductor needs to be cut.

In the first year after planting the tree, you need to trim it by 50 centimeters. Side shoots and will give skeletal branches for the future. Selected shoots need to be cut into three to five buds. If the shoots are quite strong, then you can cut more. Then every three years the branches need to be pruned, shortening them by a third. Only up to 50 centimeters is left. Then the laying of second-order branches begins. They are located at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other. It is necessary to remove branches sparingly, which will gradually sprout. First of all, those branches that begin to grow inside the crown are removed.

Once the peach in our garden begins to bear fruit, it is especially important to prune it. If you do not do this work, many shoots will begin to form. The crown begins to thicken. Fruiting is relegated to last place, and even then the peaches turn out to be small. The most important task is to prevent the appearance of extra branches that will take away the juice. Depending on how much the branches grow and how often the buds are located, the intensity of pruning depends.

How is a peach crown formed?

1. Bush crown: 3-4 young shoots growing from the lower buds are left on the planted peach. They will become full-fledged after 2-3 years and fruiting will last 3 years. Then all the branches need to be cut flush with the root collar, and 7-8 developed branches should be selected from the summer growth and left to form a bush. Every year you will need to leave five fruiting shoots and 2-3 replacement ones.

2. For a sparsely-tiered crown, a trunk of 30-40 cm is created, then no more than six branches are retained: the first tier is created from three, and as the tree grows, the others are left with an interval of 40-60 cm. The side branches on the trunk are cut off completely, and the skeletal branches are cut off significantly shorten. Only lateral growths grown on skeletal branches and trunks are not pruned.

3. Bowl-shaped - most popular among gardeners. For planted seedlings, a standard of 30-40 cm in height is made: the side branches are removed, leaving 3-4 skeletal branches, with a distance of 10-20 cm between them. The conductor is also cut off near the base.

All excess “greenery” is either cut into a ring, or cut into 2 buds. This opens the center of the bowl to full illumination and activates the formation of fruit buds. The growth of skeletal branches directed towards the ground must also be eliminated, since in the future, under the weight of the fruits, they will bend towards the ground, and the fruits will rot.

Scheme and timing of spring pruning of peaches for beginners

Be sure to cut off any dead or diseased branches.
Remove shoots growing inside the crown or downwards.
Leave 4 frame branches on the tree.
Cut off strong shoots that grow straight up; shorten those that extend to the side.
Carry out pruning taking into account that by the age of 5 the tree should have a height of 3 m.
Peach fruiting is regulated by shoot replacement.

Timely pruning fruit trees ensures free penetration sun rays on the crown, increasing yield and fruiting period.

For good growth wood and big harvest, the peach crown must be formed from the first to the third year of life in the spring.

The branches are pruned during the period when the swollen fruit buds are clearly visible. Let's consider two types of forms.

The first year of crown formation. 1st form. For a one-year-old seedling planted in the ground without side branches, measure 600 mm from the ground, add 9 buds and cut off the top.

2nd form. On a branched seedling, measure 600 mm from the ground and leave 4 shoots above the mark. The distance between shoots must be at least 200 mm. For each shoot, depending on their strength, no more than 3 buds are left from the trunk, everything else is cut off.

The main trunk is cut 200 mm above the upper side shoot. The 100 mm shoots that grew in May are removed, leaving 1 strong shoot on the main trunk and each branch.

The second year of crown formation. The 1st form of the crown in the second year requires the same operations as for the 2nd form of formation in the first year of life, discussed above.

The 2nd form is formed by shortening about 500 mm of the shoots of the lower tier and leveling all the others at the same height. On the main trunk, above 400 mm of the skeletal branch, 9 buds are left and the top is cut off. From these buds the branches of the 2nd tier are laid.

In June, small annual shoots are pruned. On the main trunk, 5 branches are left with 3 branches for each of them.

The third year of crown formation. In the third year, all skeletal branches are cut to a length of 600 mm, and semi-skeletal branches to a length of 500 mm. Subordinate branches are formed at a distance of 200 mm from each other, removing all shoots between them.

On a non-frozen tree, all vertically grown shoots (wen) are cut off. If the crown is frozen in winter, skeletal branches are formed from wen. They are cut to a length of 600 mm and the growth angle is changed by attaching a weight selected by weight to the edge of the shoot.

From the top of the crown, all branches longer than 700 mm are cut off. Strong shoots shortened to 200 mm.

The fourth year of crown formation in summer. The tree of the 4th year of life is fully formed, starting to produce its first harvest. It requires the removal of only excess growth, broken and dry branches.

The young are very fragile, so they are tied to the trunk. The branches of last year's growth bear fruit on the peach. After fruiting, they are pruned, making room for the growth of young animals.

IN summer period remove growth perpendicular to the trunk on skeletal branches. They leave shoots only with flower buds, cutting them into two sheets.

Last year's branches of lateral growth with flowers and side shoots are formed: a replacement shoot is left at the base, a reserve shoot is left in the middle, and at the edge for the growth of a fruiting branch. All remaining growth is cut off, leaving two leaves.

After the replacement and reserve shoots grow 500 mm long, and the growth of the fruiting branch is added to 6 leaves, their growth points are pinched.

Fragrant, juicy, rosy-cheeked peaches are the decoration of any garden and are always welcome “southern guests” on our table. These fruits not only have an unsurpassed taste, but also contain a large number of vitamins and minerals needed by our body. The quality of these fruits on the tree depends on many factors. Proper peach pruning, taking into account the season and age of the tree, has a great influence on the harvest.

The role of this event in peach care

Without good care It is unlikely that you will be able to grow a strong tree. A peach needs not only watering and fertilizing, but also timely, proper pruning.

The main goal of pruning is to create the most illuminated crown. In addition, this event:

promotes tree rejuvenation;
prolongs the productive life of the plant;
stimulates annual growth.

All this ensures a generous harvest of large, evenly spaced, richly colored fruits.

A well-lit peach crown is the key to a good harvest

Peach trees are characterized by increased formation of shoots and intensive formation of flower buds.

This is interesting! An 8-10 year old plant can produce about 1000 fruits. However, they will not be able to please their owners either in size or taste.

If this biological hyperactivity of the peach is not regulated, the tree will become overloaded with harvest. The fruiting period significantly depletes the plant. Moreover, it may even die during wintering. If the peach survives the winter, then you can certainly forget about the fruits.

A weakened tree is more susceptible to various diseases.

If you do not prune the peach, the tree will become significantly depleted. Moreover, the plant may die

Types of shoots

To properly prune a peach, you must first identify 6 types of branches on it:

Growth shoots are distinguished by the presence of only vegetative buds.
Mixed shoots are powerful branches with fruiting and vegetative buds. These are fruiting branches, so they cannot be pruned.
Bouquet branches are small shoots that have a vegetative bud at the top, surrounded by many others. Fruiting on them is very weak the first few years. Therefore, it is better to prune these shoots on young trees. It is not recommended to remove them from an adult peach.
Small branches often drop fruit. IN best case scenario they are capable of growing small peaches. After fruiting they die off.
Tops are good, strong, but not fruit-bearing shoots. They replace skeletal branches if they freeze after winter.
Summer shoots form in late July - early August. Most often they freeze in winter, without having time to get stronger.

Relationship between deadlines and goals

If you do not intend to radically shape the crown, but just want to correct it, the pruning time does not matter much.

Coordinated cutting with the phases of the moon has a positive effect on the results. Therefore, it is advisable to choose days favorable for this in accordance with the lunar calendar.

Spring

Its goal is to formcupping the crown with3-4 skeletal branches. This promotes active fruiting, increased size and improved taste characteristics of the fruit. This crown is easy to care for. In addition, harvesting is much more convenient.

It is best to prune the tree before active sap flow begins. Then the wounds will heal quickly. The time for spring pruning lasts about 3 weeks: from bud swelling to flowering.

In addition, spring pruning promotes:

maintaining the proportionality of the root system and crown;
earlier flowering and fruit set;
extension of the fruiting period;
decorativeness of the tree.

The most effective and painless is considered to be pruning “at the pink bud”, when the buds form and begin to bloom. This period lasts about a week and allows you to avoid infection with cytosporosis through sections.

Calendar dates for pruning in the South of Russia and in the Northern regions may shift by 1-2 weeks. But this special significance does not have. The main thing is to monitor the spring awakening of the tree.

Be sure to lubricate the cuts with garden varnish

When pruning, remember that peach trees react painfully to cuts. Therefore it is necessary:

use well-sharpened and disinfected tools;
cut branches in one motion (do not saw!);
lubricate the cuts with garden varnish.

It is not recommended to leave too many fruiting branches. This will lead to their overload, as a result of which they will begin to become exposed. The best option is their shortening to two buds. Exactly the same amount should be left on shoots growing from skeletal branches.

Trimming the top of the top shoot can stimulate the active growth of lateral branches.

Summer

Compared to spring pruning, it is less popular. After all, until summer the plant accumulates in the foliage useful material, necessary for the development of the tree. If last winter was too cold, it is better to postpone pruning from spring to summer. This will allow you to accurately identify frozen branches that need to be removed.

In addition, summer pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes:

trim dry and weak branches;
thin out non-bearing shoots;
remove shoots growing deeper;
shorten weak fruiting branches.

The optimal period for such manipulations is from mid-June to mid-July (depending on the region and weather conditions). This is the time for laying seeds.

As a result summer pruning the quality of the fruit increases.

Autumn

With its help, the tree is prepared for wintering. Autumn pruning is done after harvest, but no later than mid-October. This period is associated with the end of the growing season.

Goals autumn pruning:

trimming the tops to stimulate the growth of lateral branches;
removal of dry, old and diseased branches;
removal of root shoots in which pests can settle.

Trimming technique:

The top branch is cut off at the very base. The upper side shoot coming out of it should be cut off at the top, and 2 buds should be left on the lower one.
On mixed branches, emerging from skeletal branches or trunk, it is advisable to leave 6-8 buds. The main thing is to create space between them for light and growth.

The total number of branches left ranges from 80 to 200. If the tree bears fruit abundantly, it is enough to leave 80 branches. If there are few fruits - up to 200.

Nuances of autumn pruning (video)

Pruning seedlings during planting

For good development Peach trees need age-appropriate pruning from the first years of life.

Heavy pruning is contraindicated for young plants. It is enough to identify the skeletal branches and remove the unnecessary, competitive ones. This must be done with great care. The best way to do this kind of pruning is in early spring, after warming the air to above-zero temperatures.

The essence of the first pruning is the choice of skeletal branches

The formation of a crown with three skeletal branches is carried out as follows:

First of all, determine the height of the trunk (50-60 cm). If desired, you can begin forming the crown at a higher level short distance from the earth. This has its advantages: the tree is easier to process, easier to harvest, and the plant does not require anti-aging pruning longer. However, with a low bole, tillage under the tree becomes more difficult, and the lower branches bend to the ground under the weight of the fruit, which contributes to the peaches becoming soaked during rain and their subsequent rotting.
At the desired height of the trunk, the first skeletal branch is selected among the powerful shoots. It should deviate quite strongly from the trunk (at least 45 degrees).
The second skeletal branch is selected from the opposite side, 3-5 buds above the first.
If, when viewed from above, it is noticeable that the two selected branches are located not opposite, but at an angle to each other, then the third branch, together with the two previous ones, should divide the conditional circle around the trunk into three equal segments.
Above the third branch, the conductor (central shoot) and all other branches are removed.

If the direction of the lower branches is mutually opposite, 4 skeletal branches are chosen to lay the foundation of the future crown.

The two upper branches should be perpendicular to the lower ones.
It is advisable to leave the third branch 5-6 buds from the second, and the fourth branch a little higher.
The conductor is cut off above the fourth branch. All other shoots are also removed.

If the skeletal branches on a seedling are selected from young shoots, then excess branches should be cut out only after their lower part has become lignified. Violation of this rule can lead to a decrease in the angle of departure of the abandoned branches.

Tree crown formation

Peach age	Purpose of pruning	Technique
2 years	stimulating the growth of lateral branches of the second order	Spring pruning of the tops of skeletal branches at approximately the same level. It is important that the cut is made above the bud, pointing outward. In all subsequent years, it is necessary to adhere to the principle of leveling the height of skeletal branches and pruning above the outer bud. Pruning above a lateral or internal bud is advisable only if it is necessary to change the direction of branch growth.
3 years	laying the lower branches of the second order	Selecting second-order branches from the most powerful shoots and shortening them to 40-45 cm. These shoots should be located at a distance of 45-50 cm from the base of the skeletal branch.
4 years	laying the second (upper) pair of branches of the second order	Selection from the opposite side from the first (lower) branch of the second order of the upper branch of a similar purpose. Overgrowing branches are left on them at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. They are shortened by 5-8 groups of flower buds.
subsequent years	stimulation of growth, enlargement and improvement of fruit color and prevention of fruiting shift to the periphery of the crown	Maintaining the shape of the crown, removing weak and fruit-bearing shoots, removing basal shoots. Every year during the growing season, young shoots 8-10 cm long, formed on the trunk and the upper side of the skeletal branches, are removed. Competitive shoots at the ends of skeletal branches are also pruned.

The main formation of the peach crown occurs in the first 4 years and significantly affects the quality of the fruit.

Peach pruning technique (video)

Rejuvenating pruning of an adult peach

The fruiting period for grafted peaches is 8-10 years, for seedlings - 10-20 years. But the productive period of the tree can be extended with the help of anti-aging pruning.

Skeletal branches of old trees are removed, replacing them with 2-4 year old ones. The cut is made near young shoots selected for the formation of new skeletal branches. At the same time, they get rid of drying branches.

Replacing old skeletal branches with young shoots can give the tree a second life

As a replacement for old skeletal branches, you can also use a “top” that has grown at the bottom of the old branch. It is fixed in the desired position by pulling it with a stretcher, or bent under the same branch.

The best time for anti-aging pruning is the year when buds, flowers or wood freeze. This avoids additional crop loss.

If in previous years this activity was not carried out or was carried out incorrectly, then often when pruning an old peach it is necessary to remove not only branches, but also entire parts of the tree. Only in this way is it possible to rejuvenate the plant and achieve resumption of fruiting.

Features of some technologies

For a replacement knot

A specific feature of peach is that it bears fruit only on last year’s growth. Taking this into account, productive links are created on the branches - short replacement knots with two shoots: 1 - for replacement, 2 - for fruiting. 2-3 buds are left on the young shoot. 2 branches grow from them. One of them is shortened slightly (the very tip). IN next year it will bear fruit. Another shoot is cut into 2-3 buds (for replacement). And all last year’s manipulations are repeated. As a result of this pruning technique, thickening of the tree is prevented. Fruiting branches grow in almost the same place from year to year, replacing each other. This makes it possible to regulate the growth of the tree and ensures high yields on convenient low shoots.

Fan

To form a fan crown, you need to choose a seedling with 5-12 shoots evenly spaced. They are necessary for laying the first branches of the fan.

With this crown shape, it is necessary to construct a support. It is made in the form of a system of support wires, fixed to the fence or wall every 15 cm. Slats are attached to these support wires. With their help, peach branches are fixed in the form of a fan.

Fan crown requires additional support, but provides the best lighting

American

This pruning method involves removing all side shoots from a young tree. The tops are left to bear fruit, and next spring they are shortened to a good powerful shoot.

This is interesting! In addition to pruning, this technology involves manual thinning of fruits. Removing excess flowers prevents overloading the fruiting branch and the tree as a whole. This must be done within 4 weeks after flowering. It is during this period that the size of the future fetus is determined.

Adherents of this pruning note better illumination of the crown and ease of harvesting.

Peach is a rather capricious tree. But timely and competent care, including pruning, will always be rewarded with a generous harvest southern fruits with exquisite taste and aroma. Good luck!