Do-it-yourself steam room cladding. Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to decorate it, what options are there, examples with photos

Wood is a material that has long been used for cladding baths and saunas. That's where the tree is the best way reveals its properties - the ability to create a microclimate and retain heat perfectly.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to line the inside of the bathhouse with wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for step-by-step cladding of a bathhouse with clapboard inside.

Finishing a bathhouse or sauna with clapboard has its own characteristics that must be taken into account at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for cladding a bath, you need to consider:

high temperature;
temperature fluctuations (drops);
humidity level;
budget.

Which lining to choose for a bathhouse

The selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of the lumber:

1. Board type

When finishing a pair of wooden linings, it is better to give preference to Euro linings.

Firstly, because she has big sizes tongue-and-groove system (ridge length reaches 8 mm).

Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamellas, which promotes ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamellas.

Thirdly, because the eurolining is already pre-treated with wood preservatives that can be used in a sauna.

2. Type of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable, in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even living knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Wood species

To understand which sauna lining is best, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all breeds available on the market, but will focus on those that are recommended by professionals.

The lining of the bathhouse can be made of deciduous and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bathhouse or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Linden lining for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are its ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, the undoubted argument in favor of linden lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, and beautiful colour and wood structure. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft, and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining only becomes stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for the lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it begins to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Alder paneling for a bathhouse

In third place was the alder paneling. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this species is hygroscopic and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. However, the high cost prevents its widespread adoption.

Note. Lining made from linden, aspen, and alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length is up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bathhouse and making material calculations.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult material to process is oak lining for baths. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

The situation is similar with ash paneling - very expensive and rare lumber for lining a bathhouse.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Coniferous species are rarely used in steam rooms. Because the resin emitted by softwood lining (pine, spruce) makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by such indicators as moisture resistance and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not require additional processing (except for de-resining). Often the pleasant pine aroma also becomes an argument in favor of pine lining.

Do-it-yourself lining of a bathhouse with clapboard inside

Ways to fasten the lining

The first step is to choose a method for attaching the lining. There is no definite answer on how to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse, horizontally or vertically (lengthwise or across). Each master defends his point of view. But by summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the methods of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to its comparative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, lower installation costs. Moisture (condensation) easily flows down vertically located lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up through the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

Vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the sheathing beam interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam mode.

Laying the clapboard crosswise has advantages due to the fact that the board is fastened with the tenon facing upward, which means that water ingress is just as unlikely as with a vertical one. At horizontal mounting linings are equipped with a vertical frame (lathing), which contributes to natural circulation air between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of horizontal laying of lining in a bathhouse (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bathhouse is not just a damp place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to faster rotting than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all the vertical ones. In addition, drying due to constant temperature changes is more noticeable on vertical mounting. The horizontal method of attaching the lining is best chosen by those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the above, everyone can decide for themselves how to attach the lining in the bathhouse - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard involves installing lathing. This is due to the fact that the presence of lathing makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensation drains, and the likelihood of the lining rotting and the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The lathing for the bathhouse lining is made only from timber, which is coated with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

Lathing in the bathhouse makes it possible to organize electrical wiring in the steam room. For example, under lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of a bathhouse consists of several layers. The insulation in such a damp room requires special fastening.

First, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or secured with sheathing slats.

Cotton wool is placed between the beams of the sheathing. By the way, it was cut with an overlap of 10 mm. The cotton wool will settle tightly between the frame beams and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is placed on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is stapled to the sheathing beams.

The film is laid overlapping and must be glued aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats, the so-called counter slats, are stuffed. For counter-railing, boards up to 20 mm thick are used. The purpose of the counter-rail is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for proper functioning is ventilation in the bathhouse.

Therefore, when installing the sheathing and laying insulation, do not forget to mark the place for ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bathhouse you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Ventilation holes should be placed in accessible places to be able to regulate the flow of air.

Only non-flammable materials are used in the sauna. thermal insulation material. That is why the use of foam plastic is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in a steam room

Fastening the lining in the bathhouse is done exclusively using a hidden method. Experts explain this by three factors:

Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations when touching the fastening point.

Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the surface of the lining.

Thirdly, such fastening looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be additionally noted that the self-tapping screw can be screwed onto the front side of the board, but it must be covered with a wooden plug.

This method is quite labor-intensive, so users are advised to fasten the wooden paneling with their own hands using nails and clamps.

How to cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard

The decoration of the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bathhouse, begins from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall slats must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the entrance side and is carried out only with nails or a clamp. And the point here is not even the visual effect, but the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the lining ceiling.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the clamp or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, use a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a head. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished off with a hammer. And the place where the nail is installed is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, splinters.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bathhouse. This is due to the fact that the temperature under the ceiling is higher and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation along the wall.

How to cover walls in a bathhouse with clapboard

Decorating the walls with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented in the same way as installing clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be taken into account that water can rise up the wood to a height of up to half a meter when mounted vertically and half as low when mounted horizontally. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the slats of wooden lining until they stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. Wood swells and shrinks due to humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood.

The consequences of improper fastening (deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Installing lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you maintain the joining of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards are adjacent to the ceiling.

Fastening skirting boards for lining and decorative elements

Skirting boards, corners, and other accessories for finishing the sauna cannot be “set” on glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by sanding the installation site.

How to cover a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished using lining, cut to the required length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe slopes on windows with clapboard

They are rarely installed directly into paired windows; more often they are installed in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it won’t hurt to know how to make slopes from clapboard.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing a slope in the window opening using a starting strip for the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the plank at one end, and attached to the sheathing beam with the other. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, cover it with clapboard and then decorate the junction of the clapboard with the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in their bathhouse.

If the wall thickness is small and the slope is not wide, then you can line it with a wooden lining for lining.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Finishing the washing room in the bathhouse with clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards when laid vertically must be at a distance of at least 30 mm. from the floor.

Users note that they have proven themselves well in the interior decoration of washrooms. plastic panels and PVC lining. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term use of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to cover a bathhouse dressing room with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after a steam bath. In more modern versions The bathhouse dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and equipment are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining is no different.

Due to flammability, the lining is not installed near the furnace firebox. It is better to decorate the fireplace with brick, stone, or, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that the chimney pipe is also not allowed to join the lining on the ceiling. Therefore, a stainless steel screen is installed on the ceiling. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where the traditional Russian bath stones are stacked) is not only possible, but also necessary. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wooden finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in individual rooms of the bathhouse, you know how to attach the lining in the bathhouse correctly. This means there are no obstacles to finishing the bathhouse with wooden clapboards yourself.

In order for the interior decoration of the bathhouse to be done correctly step by step with your own hands, you should carefully consider the selection of material.

In addition, the correctness and sequence of actions is also not an unimportant point.

The interior decoration is made of wood of various species. It is better to choose your own type of wood for each room.

Material selection

The most suitable type for the steam room is linden. It perfectly retains its properties when exposed to temperature, and does not release resins in large quantities. Also, linden does not heat up so much and does not cause burns.

When finishing the dressing room and washing area, it is better to use larch and cedar. This is the most suitable wood for such rooms. It holds heat well and is not afraid of moisture. At the same time filling the rooms with a light aroma of wood.

Under no circumstances should you use pine. Especially for the steam room. Since it releases large quantities of resins, which, due to their high concentration, can worsen the well-being of those present.

Moreover, it cannot withstand high temperatures, which often leads to warping and cracking.

Today, tree wood – abashi – is becoming increasingly popular. But due to the growth of this tree on the territory of the African continent, its price remains quite high.

You cannot use synthetic materials to create a steam room. Materials made from pressed materials will also be short-lived. sawdust. But at the same time, they are quite suitable for setting up a dressing room.

It is worth noting that the specified wood species are the most preferred, but not mandatory.

Tool selection and work stages

When the bathhouse is ready, you can begin finishing the interior of the bathhouse in stages. It should be noted that if the bathhouse is made of a log house, then you should wait some time for the building to shrink.

To carry out all facing work you will need the following tools:

Hammer;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Drill and set of wood drills;
Screwdriver with a set of bits;
Fastening elements and hardware.

We will look at how to do interior work with our own hands using the example of finishing a bathhouse combined with a steam room, sink and a separate dressing room.

Floor arrangement. The floor can be made of wood or concrete.

Wooden floor. First, a sheathing is made from wooden beams. Then the untreated draft board- this will be the so-called subfloor.

A well-planed board made of larch trees or oak is laid on the subfloor. But it should be noted that oak is quite slippery when wet.

The last layer can be laid either close to each other or with uniform holes left for better drainage of water.

Concrete floor. Pour a continuous mass over the entire surface of the bath. The main thing to remember when installing both floors is to maintain an inclination towards the main drain.

After the concrete has hardened, a wooden sheathing of timber is laid on top of it, which is cut to fit the size of the room. It is better to make several of these gratings so that you can remove them.

But do not forget that a concrete floor will be colder than a wooden one.

To do this, a material is laid that will act as thermal insulation. The entire perimeter of the walls is covered with wooden beams. The step of strengthening the timber is forty to fifty centimeters. To do this, you can use screws or nails.

Sheet foam is also used as thermal insulation. Lining is installed on top of all layers.

It is attached directly to the sheathing. The blanks are cut to the required dimensions, then they are inserted into the grooves and secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

Ceiling arrangement. There is nothing complicated about this either. The same lathing is done as when constructing walls. Next, the linings are installed in the same order as when finishing the walls.

Dressing room finishing. For these works you can use wood boards. Before installing them, you should install thermal insulation and lathing as a frame for the facing material.

If the walls of the dressing room are warm and smooth enough, then you can sheathe them without insulation. For finishing For the floor, you can use linoleum, however, a wooden floor would be preferable.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse is gradually reduced to the following simple work How:

Tool preparation;
Purchase of selected material;
Making lathing from timber, in increments of no more than 40 centimeters;
Installation of sheathing for all rooms of the bathhouse using self-tapping screws or nails;
Laying a heat-insulating layer;
Installation of lining on the sheathing;
Finishing work.

To arrange benches inside the main room of the bathhouse, well-hewn boards with a thickness of more than three centimeters are used. Bath furniture should also be made of wood or wicker.

Thus, it becomes clear that decorating the interior of a bathhouse with your own hands step by step is not particularly difficult even for beginners.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse in stages (step-by-step instructions)

The article will appeal to everyone who plans to carry out finishing interior spaces DIY baths.

Finishing the inside of the bathhouse yourself step by step

You can be an avid lover of spa salons and completely reject Russian traditionalism, but in your heart you still cherish the thought of your own bathhouse. Therefore, the question of the interior decoration of the bathhouse is far from idle for you. After all, there are many nuances: what materials to choose, how to follow all the finishing rules, etc.

Typically, a bathhouse has three rooms:

Arranging a hot tub or swimming pool in addition to them means receiving an incomparable pleasure - plunging into cool water. Read also a photo report on building a bathhouse with your own hands.

Constant high humidity coupled with high temperatures - this is the microclimate of one of the specific buildings - the bathhouse. One of the requirements for these buildings is that in order to retain heat for more long time heating must proceed according to the appropriate scheme. These points must be taken into account during finishing.

Choosing material

First, we decide what material we will choose. Moreover, we do this taking into account the principles that will be observed when building a steam room:

It is necessary to exclude the release of toxins, phenolic and other resins at high temperatures. That is, we are talking about the principle of environmental friendliness.
Surfaces must have the ability to withstand considerable thermal loads, without cracks or deformation if a temperature difference occurs.
The presence of good waterproofing properties is an obvious fact.
Some types of wood tend to retain temperature on the surface. This leads to overheating of the room and difficulty breathing in it. It could even result in a burn. For example, such types of wood are walnut and oak. Therefore, it is better to opt for breathable breeds. The latter include larch and linden.
Long service life, economical consumption - these two factors are mutually compatible. In front of everyone good properties using pink larch to decorate a bathhouse from the inside will be a very expensive undertaking. However, for the manufacture of some elements (this could be a bench), you can give preference to more expensive species. We are talking about cedar, fir, etc., while for cladding walls and ceilings you should choose pine or linden.

Steam room finishing

When we enter any bathhouse, we find ourselves in a steam room. In this room, auxiliary bath equipment is placed: basins, brooms. It is expected that people staying here will feel comfortable. Therefore, when choosing the material to use for finishing the steam room, we take into account its following characteristics:

So that it is resistant to heat changes and is able to give off heat.
Isolated phytoncides and resins useful for the human body. Based on this, it is worth thinking about linden and larch.

The waiting room is designed so that people can “cool down.” This is the coldest place in the bathhouse. The recommended material for its finishing is pine, which saturates the air with flavonoids. A steamed body will benefit from these substances.

Wall decoration

It is advisable to start tiling the walls in the bathhouse not immediately, but after one or two years after the completion of construction. During this time, the building will shrink.

Finishing a bath involves solving the following issues:

What shape will the lumber be chosen? If you settle on a board, you will have to endlessly file the dimensions, worry about how to hide the fastening caps, how to protect them from such misfortunes as corrosion and overheating.

The walls in the bathhouse look very colorful, for the cladding of which lined half-logs were used.

A rational way is to interior decorate baths using lining. This refers to the groove type of fixation. There is one thing: finishing cramped spaces with clapboard leads to concealing the usable area. An important aspect is that even an inexperienced beginner can figure out how to install this cladding material.

Requirements for lining

The lining must be of high quality. If it was purchased overdried and you did not keep it in the bathhouse for a day, swelling of the material may occur during the bathing procedures. If it is purchased raw, there is a possibility that large cracks will appear after the lining dries.

Check that there are no knots or gouges on the surface of the lining.

Regardless of what type of wood was used in the manufacture of the lining, remember that using varnishes, stains and other chemical treatments on wooden surfaces in the steam room is unacceptable. High temperatures will lead to the negative effects of chemical fumes on the human body. Instead of the intended benefit, a visit to the bathhouse will do more harm.

We are erecting the sheathing

When choosing a lining, you will have to start constructing the sheathing. For the latter, timber with a width of 30 mm is well suited. To fasten it, use a step of 40-50 cm along the walls. The beams are laid horizontally using a level. The vertical parts of the sheathing are laid using a plumb line.

We install the eurolining on the sheathing. It is better to do this starting from the corners of the far wall and gradually moving towards the front door. In this case, the steam room will take on a look that you won’t be ashamed to show off.

After solving the issue with the sheathing, it’s time to think about options for wall insulation. In some cases, craftsmen advise laying a layer of mineral insulation directly under the sheathing. However, in no case should you discount the type load-bearing walls buildings. If concrete blocks or stone were used in the construction of the steam room, insulation will not be needed. Otherwise, the issue of proper ventilation will be on the agenda.

We are engaged in waterproofing

Taking into account the experience gained in construction, you should definitely take care of good waterproofing. It will protect the material of the supporting structures. Popular waterproofing materials remain:

aluminium foil;
vapor barrier film, which is a modern analogue of aluminum foil.

If waterproofing is combined with insulation, it must be laid on top roll materials. So that there is a small overlap in those places where the waterproofing is connected to the sheathing. The steam room may not have thermal insulation. Such options are a cobblestone building or a log house. The seams that exist between the logs are simply caulked.

To prevent a possible fire, we pay attention to the place where the pipe exits in the ceiling. Iron or brick are the materials with which it needs to be lined.

Setting up the floor

The floor part of the bathhouse is also a subject of close attention when finishing. Work to protect it begins simultaneously with the insulation of the walls or after completion of the work.

Due to frequent drafts (caused by opening the door) from a concrete screed covered with a board, the effect will be minimal. Then you can think about arranging an air cushion. There are several ways to do this.

Screed of empty bottles

It seems most economical to make a screed from empty bottles. Below we will see how this is done:

We take the bottles (it is important that the polyethylene is durable), screw the caps tightly.
We lay a grate on top of the concrete screed. It should be made of welded rods or tied with wire.
Then comes the turn of the bottles. They are placed as close to each other as possible. Almost compacted.
The next stage is pouring the structure with concrete. A self-leveling mixture for leveling floors is also suitable for this purpose.
And the last thing - laying flooring. A tile or board can be chosen for it.

Sand-crushed stone pillow

The second option is to install a sand-crushed stone cushion. We adhere to the previous scheme. The exception is the use of sheathing.

To maintain air space between particles, it is preferable that sand and gravel be of a medium fraction.

Tile covering and lumber are options suitable for finishing the floor. The exception is laminate boards. The advantages of ceramic tiles include their durability and a wide variety of options. If you use porcelain tiles with a wood texture, you will have to stock up on non-slip wooden ladders or wooden mats.

Constructing a wooden floor

For those who consider themselves to be true connoisseurs of the Russian bathhouse, it is better to think about building wooden floor. First, small pits are prepared on the basis that the depth of one of them should correspond to the dimensions of the stove’s foundation, and the other should fit the dimensions of the font. Then we proceed to the construction of sand and crushed stone layers, laying waterproofing. We definitely provide for drainage. And all that remains is to start laying log beams (diameter 150 mm) or timber beams (200*200 mm).

We pour crushed stone between the joists. We take scraps, expanded clay or slab. They will be needed to install the subfloor. There should be a gap between the boards. We lay two- or three-layer waterproofing. Suitable materials for it are roofing felt or glassine. We provide for the presence of a slope towards the drain. To lay ventilation between the “subfloor” and the main flooring, we install a pipe.

Finishing the steam room outside

So, let's proceed to the final stage of work. Beams and roundings are those materials whose use is logical for exterior decoration. The last option is lining impregnated with an antiseptic.

Initial treatment of any wood siding is required. Fire retardant and antiseptic are suitable for it.
Be sure to caulk the gaps between the joints. Using a special grout is also suitable. Then the surface is sanded.
To obtain a uniform shade of wood, a powerful grinder will come to the rescue. Each of tree species involves the use of attachments that have different degrees of abrasiveness.
Selected glue mixture must be resistant to moisture. Another essential property is increased heat resistance.
To cover the outer surface wooden walls Drying oil or varnish is applied to protect against exposure to UV rays and microorganisms.

Having decided to veneer a concrete or brickwork brick or other stone siding, consider the aesthetics of the exterior walls. A successful combination stone cladding plinth with clapboard covering.

Selecting bath furniture

For most of us, a bath without milk is simply unthinkable. To make it, boards are taken (5 cm thick), they should not be resinous. Buy fireproofing compound in advance; you will need it to process the boards. Thick logs are used to support the shelf. Occasionally a wall is used. There is no need to worry about the size of the shelf; there are no strict requirements here. It would be optimal if the plane of this bath attribute is located at a distance of 120 cm from the ceiling level. Then, waving a broom, you won’t have to limit yourself in your movements. For benches and benches, a regular edged and well-polished board is well suited. The scope for your own imagination and manifestation of talents is limitless here.

To ensure longevity and an optimal microclimate for a wooden bath, we follow a number of necessary rules:

When performing internal cladding, we ensure the vertical arrangement of the boards. They should be in close contact with each other.
The bathhouse does not need painting.
Due to the constant contact of water on the floor, it does not need to be insulated. Otherwise, the water simply will not be able to drain, which will lead to rapid rotting of the wood.
To reduce heat loss in the bathhouse, it is customary to install small windows.
The use of dim lighting helps create a relaxing atmosphere.

Bath interior

It is directly dependent on the preferences of the owner. This could be stylizing the bathhouse as a devil’s hut, decorating it with ornate patterns, constructing suspended ceilings, etc.

Drawing conclusions

We have reviewed the main points for finishing a bath. Let us repeat once again the two main principles that need to be followed:

Environmental friendliness of materials;
High waterproofing properties materials.

A skillful approach is the key to achieving a harmonious combination of several types of finishes. Moreover, each of them will be laid in accordance with the required technology.

We do the interior decoration of the bathhouse with our own hands step by step

Materials and options for finishing the bathhouse inside. The best wood for a steam room is linden.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse: wall preparation and insulation, screen and cladding

Baths are very specific buildings in which high humidity and high temperatures are constantly observed. At the same time, heating in some rooms of this design must proceed in such a way that the heat is retained as long as possible.

And if you do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself, then these points must be taken into account.

Amateur photo of a finished steam room finished with wood

Step by step process

To begin with, it is necessary to say that the data Finishing work produced in a steam room. The fact is that decorating the inside of a bathhouse with your own hands can be unique, but only in this room it is of the same type and requires strict adherence to consistency. It is also worth mentioning that some such buildings may consist entirely of one steam room.

Making lathing in a steam room from cinder block

Wall preparation and insulation

First of all, it should be said that finishing the inside of baths should begin with treating the surfaces with an antibacterial composition. At the same time, for wood or brick, they use exactly those materials that are created for working with them.
The purpose of this treatment is to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. However, it also creates a waterproof layer.

The principle of finishing a steam room, shown in separate layers

Further interior decoration of the baths involves the installation of lathing. It is best made from wood so as not to create strong temperature changes on the surface. The location of the slats in the sheathing is chosen in accordance with the type of finishing coating.
After this, insulation is installed in the cells formed by the wood. At the same time, most manuals telling about the best way to decorate the inside of a bathhouse recommend using mineral wool for this. For such rooms it is an ideal insulation material, which can be perfectly placed between the slats.

To fix mineral wool, it is better to use a cord or wire that is pulled between the slats.

The fact is that high temperatures have a very bad effect on physical properties plastic fasteners.

Shielding the room to prevent infrared radiation from escaping

Screen and casing

At the next stage, the installation instructions involve the manufacture of a special screen. It uses a material with a reflective surface.
The need for such a constructive solution is due to the fact that heating elements saunas or bath stoves emit large amounts of infrared radiation. At the same time, so that the cost of kindling and maintaining the temperature is not so high, it is worth saving it inside, which reflective material does an excellent job of.

Installation of load-bearing strips on top of the protective screen for subsequent fixation of wooden lining on them

It must be installed not only on the walls being finished, but also on the ceiling, even if the interior finishing of the bathhouse is made from sleepers.
All joints of such a coating are overlapped and secured with heat-resistant adhesive tape. At the same time, professionals advise that it also have a reflective surface.

There are options for finishing the inside of the bathhouse, which assume that the fastening will be done using additional slats. They are stuffed over the covering onto the main structure of the sheathing.
Many manuals telling about how much the interior decoration of a bathhouse costs and how to produce it recommend saving and using special foil. However, it is very difficult to work with so as not to damage it during installation.

Fixing wooden lining using special fasteners

Next you need to do the sheathing. At the same time, many experts, answering the question of how to decorate the inside of a bathhouse, recommend using wood. This material is environmentally friendly, behaves well in these conditions and has a pleasant smell.
However, it must be remembered that all wood used for finishing must be dry.

If necessary, you can treat the material with a protective compound even before fixing it, which will significantly increase the impregnation consumption, but will completely cover the module with impregnation

Separate modules are fixed using special fasteners or self-tapping screws. At the same time, the cost of finishing the inside of a bathhouse can increase significantly if you use solid wood paneling with appropriate brackets, but such a design will be the most durable and reliable.
At the final stage of finishing work, professional bath attendants recommend using a special primer with additional antibacterial inclusions. It is applied to the surface for additional protection against moisture and fungus.
It is worth noting that such impregnation should be developed specifically for such conditions, so that when the temperature rises, it does not emit harmful substances.

There are special types of insulation that already have a reflective surface applied to them.

Using such materials will help you save a lot.

In some cases, it is possible to finish such a room with brick, but most bath attendants do not approve of this method

There is no need to do waterproofing between the room and the insulation. The fact is that it will be replaced by material with a reflective surface.
Before applying the finishing protective layer on wood, it is recommended to treat it with fine sandpaper to remove all the fibers on its surface.
The width of the wooden sheathing should be such that the insulation fits freely and without pressure.

Special impregnation designed for use in a sauna or bathhouse

By watching the video in this article you can get more detailed information about how the walls of a bathhouse are finished. Also, based on the text presented above, it should be concluded that this process differs significantly from normal work in a typical room. In this case, special attention is paid to the process of maintaining heat inside the room.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse: video instructions, the best way to decorate it, options, photos

Interior decoration of the bath

Interior decoration wooden baths or similar foam block buildings should be such that everyone can feel the special atmosphere that should reign in the bathhouse. Materials for the interior decoration of baths are presented in a wide variety, so it all depends on the size of the owner’s wallet and their personal preferences. Hiring people is quite expensive, so for many the best option is to do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself. There is nothing complicated in this process; you need to familiarize yourself a little with the main rules of the work.

Features of the interior decoration of the bath

The interior decoration of the bathhouse performs important functions:

additional waterproofing and insulation;
extension of service life;
safety (minimizing burns);
decorativeness.

Since the bathhouse is used in very harsh conditions, the material must be very durable and resistant. The main requirements for bath materials are:

high strength indicators;
durability;
attractive appearance;
resistance to various kinds negative impacts;
environmental friendliness;
hypoallergenic.

Of course, the most popular and the best material Wood has been and remains used for interior decoration of bathhouses, since it is completely safe for the human body and combines all of the above qualities. As a rule, the walls of the bathhouse are finished with wooden paneling. This is a universal material that is very easy to install and has an attractive appearance. In addition, in the gap between the walls and the lining it is very convenient to install insulation and hide communications.

Steam room finishing

To decorate the walls of the steam room, lining made of linden, aspen, birch, larch or ash is used. These types of wood are resistant to decay, dry quickly and do not heat up to critical values under the influence of high temperatures. Unlike conifers, they do not release resins when heated. It is better not to use walnut or oak in a steam room, as they are very dense and retain heat on the surface. This makes the bathhouse very hot, the air becomes scalding and you can easily get burned.

It is prohibited to use synthetic materials for the interior decoration of a steam room, since almost all of them begin to emit harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures, although they are harmless when used under normal conditions.

First you need to make the floor. If you decide to make it from wood, then you need to install logs from logs. The floor must have a drain so that water flows freely into the ground. If the floor is concrete, it is better to finish it with tiles. It’s not difficult to lay tiles: apply special glue to the concrete floor and each tile, level them and press them well so that there are no gaps. To keep the seams even, you need to use special crosses, which are removed after the glue has set.

The ceiling must be protected from moisture. Therefore, the ceiling is covered with a vapor barrier, fixing it with wooden slats. It is also necessary to equip an air cushion using bars. In the place where the chimney will go outside, the ceiling must be sheathed with iron to reduce the risk of fire.

Walls made of logs or timber must be carefully caulked in places where there are cracks. Then you can safely install heat and vapor barrier materials. Only after this can you begin covering with clapboard, which is fixed on a pre-assembled sheathing.

Washroom finishing

For finishing the washing room and rest room, experts recommend using lining made of spruce or pine. It is resistant to high humidity, looks beautiful, and is easy to process, polish and varnish. Since the temperature in the washing room is low, there is nothing to fear from the release of resins. Other materials can be used for washing:

waterproof drywall;
plastic panels;
tile;
gypsum fiber.

Finishing process

Now you can consider the finishing process step by step. First, all finishing materials must be taken into the steam room or washing room and left for 24 hours. During this time, the material will acclimatize and acquire the temperature and humidity that is in the room.

Then you can start making the sheathing from the beams. After this, you need to install a vapor barrier and insulation. The final stage is the installation of the lining. Before this, it must be treated with an antiseptic on both sides and dried well. It can be installed in both horizontal and vertical positions. Diagonal installation is also not uncommon.

The tenon of each lining element is inserted into the groove of the previous one. Fixation is carried out using nails made of copper or bronze, since conventional fasteners will quickly become covered with rust.

As you can see, when finishing a brick bathhouse or a building made of aerated concrete or a log house, it is better to use wood. Only it creates a special flavor and atmosphere of a real bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse in stages

Features of the interior decoration of a bathhouse with your own hands step by step. Selection of finishing material various rooms. Finishing of the steam room, washing room. Finishing process.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse finishing

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently complete the interior decoration of bath rooms. Detailed step by step instructions with photos will help to produce cladding and cladding with high quality and in compliance with construction technologies.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse finishing

Features of finishing of bath rooms

A classic Russian bathhouse necessarily contains such rooms as:

If the area allows, in modern buildings they will equip a separate recreation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, a veranda, a barbecue area and even a full kitchen.

Design of a relaxation room in a bathhouse Dining area in the lounge

Despite fashion trends, the basic requirements for the bath remain unchanged:

the steam room requires persistent hot steam,
in the washing room there are non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bathing procedures,
In general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and an aesthetically pleasing environment.

The functionality of bath rooms largely depends on the correct finishing. Even if your structure is built from rounded logs, and the walls from the inside look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to carry out interior finishing of the bathhouse, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Finishing a steam room as a necessity

Each room has a number of features that must be taken into account when choosing materials and cladding methods.

Steam room

When decorating a steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

sudden temperature changes, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚C;
the presence of hot steam emitted in a powerful and concentrated stream;
high humidity.

Bath and steam room layout

A universal cladding option for a steam room is a cladding board, which must have the following properties:

do not absorb moisture;
have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
have a pleasant color and smell, and do not release resin when heated;
protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

Choosing lining for a bath

Of all the variety of linings, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abashi wood are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a cladding material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well-dried and hewn, without knots or nicks on the surface, it will serve reliably for many years.

The lining in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before covering, the walls and ceiling are insulated. The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is what is most often used for finishing. Often, insulation such as basalt wool is used. It is more durable, as it is not subject to damage from high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not susceptible to rotting, burning and fungus.

Insulation according to the design type Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The floor in the steam room is made warm, non-slippery and pleasant for walking with bare feet.

Wash room

In the washing department, you usually not only rinse your body; here you can relax after a hot steam room, have a relaxing massage, or apply products to care for your face, body, or hair. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

An example of finishing a shower with wood and tiles

Bathroom sink, ceramic tile finish

The washing room is faced with either ceramic tiles or wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then in the washing room they give preference to coniferous species - larch, spruce or pine. The resin they contain has moisture-repellent properties and protects materials from rotting.

Particular attention is paid to the floor; it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to fill the base in the washing room with concrete, on which tiles are laid. Although it is also possible wooden version floor.

Wooden leaking floors in a washing room

To prevent slipping on a wet surface, it is recommended to install removable flooring on the tiles. wooden joists. They should be dried after completing the bath procedures.

Wood flooring on tiled floor- photo

Tambour, locker room, rest room

Along with the washing room and steam room, the remaining bath rooms retain high humidity air. Here you can use both deciduous and coniferous wood for decoration. The following materials are also used:

Combination of wood and natural stone in the interior of the rest room

A combination of different types of finishes, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone, is common in such rooms.

Ceiling decoration in the bathhouse

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to the aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the floors with vapor and heat insulation to prevent damage to the materials. Aluminum foil or a construction membrane is often used for these purposes. They are equally effective at ensuring they are sealed.

Ceiling insulation with foil

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with cotton wool glued on it. It is much thinner and less convenient when carrying out cladding work. Also, do not use foil with polypropylene foam attached. It is toxic when heated, so it is not suitable for use in bath rooms.

It is important to carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape. If during the process of attaching the material you inadvertently damaged it, immediately seal this place, then you may forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be damaged.

Aluminum tape. Sealing joints

In the steam room you need to lay out a hole for the pipe. It is equipped with a box made of thin stainless steel sheet, which is filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet, which protects the wood from excessive heat.

Steam room ceiling insulation

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Slats with a cross-section of 2*4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. In the places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to provide gaps for ventilation of at least 10 mm.

Device diagram wooden frame for lining

Step 2. The slats are placed horizontally on the walls, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3. Wooden panels begin to be attached from one of the walls. The groove of the first plank is directed outward and the tenon of the next one is driven into it. It can be the other way around, there is no fundamental difference.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet to avoid damaging the material.

Step 4. The planks can be fixed with special clamps; they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the simplest and most convenient way is to use a construction stapler. It reliably fixes the lining and significantly reduces installation time.

Ceiling paneling

Scheme of fastening the lining using clamps

Fastening the lining to clamps

Step 5. Gaps from the walls of 2-2.5 cm are left on the sides. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the baseboard.

The first and final panels are nailed with nails with a small head. They are hammered in at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood using a hammer.

Ceiling lined with clapboard

It is important to ensure the verticality of the slats, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. Instead, you can use a simple construction meter. In this case, you measure the distance from the wall to the edge installed panels on one side and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is carefully tapped to the required level. To do this, use a small piece of the same panel, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or hammer).

The panels are also trimmed in the following way: a wooden overlay is fixed, under which a pointed sliver is carefully hammered.

Bathroom wall decoration

The walls in the steam room are decorated with wood. In other rooms you can use tiles or stone.

Wall decoration with clapboard

Basic installation equipment wood panels on walls is no different from attaching them to the ceiling.

Step 1. We fill a thick beam horizontally along the entire perimeter - every 80-100 cm.

Lathing for lining

An example of lathing for lining in a brick bathhouse

Step 2. We install mineral wool insulation. We cut the insulation to the required sizes with a sharp knife. We lay it between the beams without compacting it.

Using mineral wool to insulate walls in a steam room

Step 3. We lay a vapor barrier and carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape.

Vapor barrier of bath walls with aluminum foil

Note! Carefully monitor the quality of insulation in the corners.

Step 4. To provide a ventilation gap, we stuff the spacer strip. Sheathing is always performed at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining strips. Thus, if you plan to place the panels vertically, the sheathing is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. To evenly arrange the horizontal slats, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame slats, that is, near the floor and above the ceiling.

The next strip is inserted after 40-50 cm, and then the remaining strips are attached around the perimeter, with the same step. Constantly check the evenness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5. Doors and windows are lined with separate bars.

Step 6. Let's start attaching the panels.

Ways to fasten the lining

Technical specifications for wooden lining

When covering walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to mount the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure that moisture quickly drains onto the floor, without trapping it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do horizontal finishing, then lay the boards with the tongue facing up so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, start fastening the boards from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The lathing is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened using clamps, regular nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, with the head completely buried in the wood.

Be sure to leave 2-3 cm gaps when attaching the lining from the ceiling and floor for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be trimmed. For these purposes, use a saw with small teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last batten, it is cut to the required size and attached to the sheathing. On the first panel next wall cut off the ridge and install it flush against the last batten of the first wall. Corner trimming requires special precision. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent angles The panels should fit end to end, without gaps.

Insulating the oven from the wall

Special attention must be paid to insulating the stove from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the stove;
mineralite - heat-resistant boards made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fiber. 2 sheets are attached if the stove is located in close proximity to the wall. When the stove is located at a distance of more than 40 cm, it is sufficient to use one sheet of mineralite.;
heat-resistant kaolin clay tiles, for example from Russian company"Terracotta";
profile iron is the most cost-effective insulation option;
red solid brick - laid between the wall and the stove to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can insulate the entire space up to the ceiling.

Fireproof distance from a metal stove to the walls of the bathhouse

Non-combustible wall cladding

Wall cladding with mineralite and soapstone

Wall tiling

Often the walls in the washing department or in rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look to the room.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on walls in a bath include preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, rough plastering is done, and unevenness is leveled with mortar.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing felt or roofing felt. It is nailed down with a construction stapler, and a fine mesh net is sewn on top. Finishing preparatory work applying cement mortar, which completely covers the metal mesh.

A perfectly flat wooden beam is nailed at floor level, from which it will begin fine finishing. You can use a metal UD profile, which is mounted level along the wall.

Example of a fixed starting profile for a tile

To control vertical rows, use a regular plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

To attach the tiles, you can use either a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5) or ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue intended for baths; it can withstand large temperature changes and high humidity.

Heat-resistant tile adhesive

Before starting work, the tiles are immersed in a container of water and left until all the air comes out of it. This will provide better adhesion to the solution.

Soaking tiles in water

Start facing from below, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row perfectly evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, the glue should protrude slightly beyond its edges. To ensure that the square sits perfectly straight, align it with a rubber hammer.

How to properly apply tile adhesive with a notched trowel

Keep an eye on the gap between the rows of tiles; it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are placed in the gaps in the corners of the tiles.

Bathroom tiling

Technology of laying tiles on the wall

Crosses between seams

After 2 days the glue will dry completely and you can remove the level.

Scheme for laying tiles on walls

Scheme for laying tiles

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the cladding. It dries in 11-12 hours.

The final stage is cleaning the walls from grout residues and other contaminants. The tiles are thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

How to rub seams correctly

Tiles create a lot of space for creative expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the simplest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly on top of each other.

The running drawing looks like this.

Laying tiles in a “running” pattern

Facing diagonally.

Example diagonal laying tiles

To create complex tile combinations various colors, it is recommended to first lay out the drawing on the floor, then mark the diagram on the wall, and only then proceed with finishing.

Wall cladding with terracotta flagstone

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture resistant and durable, withstands high temperatures and allows you to create original and beautiful design walls

Terracotta for cladding

The technology for laying it is somewhat different from facing conventional thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta more heavy material and requires special glue or mastic.

Below are step-by-step instructions for tiling with terracotta flagstone.

Apply mastic to the flagstone in a thick, thick layer. More adhesive is required than when laying lighter tiles.
Press it against the wall and level it.

Bonding terracotta tiles

Used drywall pieces to maintain equal spacing between tiles

Be careful when handling the gun. If mastic does get on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off immediately. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried compound without rubbing it.

High-quality rubbed and embroidered seams

Video - Heat-resistant tiles in a steam room: the process of laying tiles

Bathroom floor finishing

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

How to make a floor in a bathhouse

Start facing from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, an ideal horizon is not created on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Before applying the solution, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

Cement mortar is poured onto the concrete.
Level with a spatula.
The surface is covered according to the size of the tile; in this case, two rows are laid out simultaneously.
The serrated side of the spatula creates a pattern on the mortar for better adhesion of the cladding surface.
Lay out rows of tiles. Using a rubber hammer and level, set the desired slope and level it. Please note that for the first row, the tiles do not need to be pre-immersed in water. The rest of the base is covered with soaked cladding.

Photo - laying tiles on the floor

Tapping tiles with a mallet

Wedges for seams

Tiled floor with slope towards the ladder

On independent finishing Baths take a lot of effort and time. It is necessary to solve a number of important problems - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during bath procedures.

Tile on the floor - photo

DIY Bathroom Decoration - Step-by-Step Instructions for the Best Methods!

Find out how to decorate a bathhouse with your own hands. Proper execution of work from A to Z, interior design options, step-by-step instructions, photos + videos.

The steam room is the most important place in the bathhouse. To enjoy your stay in the steam room and experience the maximum benefit from its effects on the body, you need correct finishing walls

The effect of the visit will be even more enhanced if the decoration of the steam bath is done with your own hands.

Selection of materials

To the question “How to decorate the inside of the bathhouse?” we can answer unequivocally that the most suitable material is a special panel for wall cladding, the main advantages of which include:

good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
no condensation
pleasing to the eye appearance
ease of installation
reasonable cost

The best breeds Deciduous wood (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash) has long been considered the starting material for the manufacture of lining, since walls made of them allow the room to quickly warm up, while at the same time remaining comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore will not cause harm to health.

Of the listed species, the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding) is larch, but it is also the most expensive material.

Linden lining it is advisable to process it first with a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Due to its hardness, aspen lining is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer use it for ceilings and walls.

durable, resistant to decay process is ash, with the help of its beautiful core you can achieve an attractive effect.

Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can be a worthy material for finishing ( especially inside a bathhouse made of foam blocks).

It is not recommended to take it Birch is used as a starting material for lining due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during preparation.

If, for some reason, you still have to make lining from this rock, then you must take into account that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparing for use it will susceptible to drying out.

A relatively new material, which professionals advise using to cover walls in a steam room, is lining made from African oak Abash(or Abashi).

This coating has a number most valuable properties, thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

low level of thermal conductivity;
lightness and at the same time strength;
resistance to deformation, absence of cracks and chips when sawing and drilling;
resistance to rotting;
the presence of a unique, beautiful pattern on the surface.

This material has only one drawback - it quite high cost. But it is covered by the properties mentioned above.

Whatever the source material the lining is made from, it must first be well dried and processed so that there are no roughnesses on it.

What can't be used in a steam room?

It is unacceptable to trim steam room coniferous species(fur tree, pine tree). The reasons for this are as follows:

when the walls are very hot, touching them can become unexpected and quite unpleasant;
drops of released resins can get on the skin and burn it.

It is not recommended to use hardwoods such as oak and walnut. This is due to their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.

In a steam room, the walls of which are covered with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually It's difficult to breathe. In addition, if you accidentally touch them, you can burn your skin.

You should not cover the walls in the steam room chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

It's connected with harmful effects of chemicals on the human body at very high temperatures.

DIY finishing process

Basic moments interior finishing step by step:

Manufacturing of sheathing;
Fastening steam and thermal insulation;
Installation of wooden panels.

Requirements for installing sheathing

Hydro- and thermal insulation of steam room walls

For vapor barrier most often used aluminum foil, as well as foamed polymer materials (polypropylene). The advantage of polymer materials is that they simultaneously have vapor and heat insulating qualities.

These materials, laminated with foil, not only help maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of dampness and the appearance of fungus.

Sequencing:

Attach to a timber wall (mineral wool is best suited for these purposes).
Attach a layer of foil to the insulation.
Install the sheathing (it is necessary to create an air gap between the lining and the foil layer).

Installation of lining

For a step-by-step guide on how to properly cover walls and ceilings with clapboard, watch the video instructions:

Features of dressing room finishing

Find out more about the secrets of finishing a bath from the video below:

Finishing a steam room with your own hands requires a special approach, since the materials used for this must withstand not only high humidity, but also peak temperatures. In addition, the aesthetic design of the room should create a special favorable atmosphere that promotes psychological relief and physical relaxation.

In order for the steam room to meet all the needs of its visitors, according to all possible parameters, it is recommended to think in advance and draw up a design plan for finishing the room.

Basic principles and stages of steam room equipment

If the structure of the bathhouse has already been erected, the premises have been distributed, and each of them is known, then, based on this data, you can begin to create a project. It would be better to make several possible options for a specific room, so that there is a choice between three or four interiors.

After it is determined most optimal option, it will be possible, based on the size of the room, to calculate the amount of necessary construction and finishing materials for decorating the walls of the steam room, arranging shelves, for paro-, hydro- and thermal insulation of walls.

In addition, you will immediately need to decide on the lighting system. It should be safe and bright enough to create a special mood in a dark steam room, conducive to relaxation.

All construction and finishing activities are carried out in a certain sequence, which should not be violated, otherwise it is possible that the entire work will have to be redone.

First thing is installed all electrical wiring. In the planned locations for installing lamps, wires are passed through the entire insulation and waterproofing system, as well as through the lining.
The next step is to lay the lathing on the walls and ceiling, and attach the first layer of vapor barrier material to it.
Then the location for installing the stove is determined - it will be finished using a special technology a little later.
Next, the location is marked ventilation system, prepare a hole for the chimney in the wall or ceiling.
The next step is to install insulation between the sheathing bars. Usually, stone or basalt wool is chosen for a bath, which reacts less than others elevated temperatures and humidity.
Next, a second layer of vapor barrier membrane is stretched on top of the insulation.
It is fixed on top of it, or one of the other reflective materials is selected.
Then settles down place for installing the stove - base and walls.
The rest of the floor is laid out with ceramic tiles or, if desired, covered with wooden flooring.
The next step is to install the door frame and the door itself.
Next, the steam room is lined with wooden paneling - first the ceiling, and then the walls.
Then the shelves and other elements of bath equipment are installed, and lamps are installed.

Video: several sketches about possible options for steam room equipment

This was the general sequence of work. Now about these stages - in more detail.

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room

Electrical part

Electrical cables are fixed to the wall under insulation and vapor barrier. The cable must be solid throughout its entire length and must not have terminal or solder connections, much less twists. After finishing is completed, the connection points of the lighting fixtures should be very well insulated.

Lighting devices are distributed evenly throughout the room - this can be illumination of the ceiling, shelves or corner areas. Any lamp must be equipped with a special sealed shade that will protect the lamp from moisture. If ordinary unprotected lamps are used for lighting in the steam room, they will very quickly fail. It is also quite likely that a short circuit will occur if moisture gets inside the device, and this is fraught with very serious consequences.

The cable is fixed on the wall using special holders or placed in a box, which will create additional protection from the aggressive environment of the steam room.

Sometimes small windows are installed in the walls of the steam room for lighting, but you need to remember that they will always help speed up the process of cooling the air in the room. So if the window is still planned, then it should be completely small size, no more than 300×500 mm, and must be closed hermetically. The best option in this case would be to install a miniature one with double-glazed windows.

Installation of the electrical part of the steam room is not particularly difficult, to be sure professional electrician. If the master doing the lining in the bathhouse is far from this line of work, then it is best to invite a person who knows exactly how it is done to do it.

Installation of lathing on walls and ceilings

The lathing can be attached to the walls vertically or horizontally, and to the ceiling along or across - this moment depends on the chosen direction of the lining arrangement.

The sheathing is made of wooden blocks, which should have a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulating material.

The location of the sheathing elements (the interval between adjacent guides) is calculated based on the width of the insulation. The bars are placed at a distance that will be 20 ÷ 40 mm less than the size of the insulation material, since the thermal insulator should be as tight as possible.

To protect the sheathing, walls and ceiling from moisture, as well as the formation of condensation, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the bars and the surfaces between them, which will allow the insulating layer to “breathe”.

Determining the location for the oven

The “central element” of the steam room is always, therefore, having installed lathing on the walls, you need to decide on the location of the heater and the size of the area for it. Usually the stove is installed near an external wall, this is the easiest way to lead the chimney pipe through the wall to the street without damaging it. attic floor and roofs.

However, it is quite possible to install a traditional vertical pipe that runs through the entire building of the bathhouse. They make a specially designed hole in the ceiling for it, pass it through the attic, and then pass it through the roof and close the gaps between the pipe and roofing material waterproofing. This option is more difficult to install a chimney, but if you choose it, you can significantly save space in the steam room due to the distance from the wall.

Having calculated and marked the site for the heater, you can proceed to planning the ventilation holes.

Holes for ventilation and chimney

Already at the very first stages of forming the insulating “pie”, it is necessary to immediately indicate the location of the ventilation and chimney openings. Their location directly depends on where the heater will be installed. Since the location has already been determined, you need to refer to the ventilation diagram. There may be several layouts for the ventilation holes, but always, one of the windows is located at a height of 300 ÷ 400 mm from the floor, and the second is 150 ÷ 200 mm below the ceiling.

The lower ventilation window will be located next to or behind the stove, and the upper one will be on the opposite wall under the ceiling.

Therefore, in these places it is necessary to arrange through holes, and temporarily set a segment in them plastic pipe or wooden blocks to take them into account when installing other layers of insulation and finishing cladding. A special publication on our portal is devoted to these problems.

The hole for the chimney can be made in the ceiling, as mentioned above, or in the wall. For it, just like for ventilation, a passage is arranged through all layers of insulation. If a hole is made in the wall, a pipe is also temporarily installed in it required diameter. Subsequently, the chimney pipe will need to be separated from combustible surfaces with heat-resistant gaskets.

More details can be found in a separate special article on our portal.

Installation of insulation

Installation of insulating material is first done on the ceiling. If necessary, it is temporarily fixed with a thin but strong rope, which is secured with a stapler to the sheathing.

The insulation is covered with another layer on top vapor barrier membranes. It can be replaced with foil film, or you can use them in combination.

The advantage of using foil is that it has the ability to reflect heat inward, thus keeping it as much as possible in the room and not allowing the walls to cool down.

These layers are stretched and secured to the walls and ceiling with an overlap, which should be at least 200 mm, and fixed to the sheathing with staples using a stapler.

Then the joints of the individual panels are glued together with waterproof foil tape.

Counter-lattice slats will help to finalize the insulation “pie”

Quite thin layers are often fixed on top of these layers. wooden slats(elements of the so-called counter-lattice), which will more reliably fix these materials on the main lathing.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Arrangement of walls and floors at the place where the stove is installed

Before installing it in place, it is necessary to widen the hole intended for the chimney outlet to the street and equip it with a heat-resistant gasket, which will protect the combustible walls from overheating. If the bathhouse is built of brick or stone, then the pipe can be removed without preliminary preparation of the hole.

After this work, the walls are finished with reliable non-combustible material. Most often, they are sheathed with asbestos slabs, in which a hole is made in the right place and aligned with the hole for the pipe.

Then the walls can be covered with ceramic wall tiles, for example, imitating natural stone or fired brick.

The base for the heater must be raised above the rest of the steam room floor surface by 200 ÷ 250 mm, so it is used for porcelain stoneware or thick ceramic floor slabs.

After this, the rest of the floor surface is laid out - a high-quality flat board will do for this. Traditionally, wooden flooring is used for steam room floors, but tiles will last longer.

By the way, if it is made from ceramic tiles decorative coating, then it is easy to install special removable wooden gratings on it.

Prices the lineup floor tiles

Floor tile

Door frame installation and door finishing

Next, it is necessary to carry out measures to install the door frame and. This is done before covering the walls, so that it is possible to cover the fastenings and sealed gaps between the walls and the frame with clapboard.

A poorly fitted door and poor-quality installation can cause the room to cool down, so you need to provide and take into account some points that will help avoid heat leakage:

The door should open outward, and not towards the steam room.
On the door, on its outer side, special lining strips are fixed, which will protrude beyond the perimeter of the door leaf by 20 ÷ 30 mm. When closed, they will bridge the gaps between the frame and the door, fitting tightly to the jamb.
The threshold is made above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 120 mm.
During installation, the gaps between the frame and the wall opening are hermetically sealed.
You can install a wide door trim from the inside of the steam room, thereby creating an additional obstacle to the penetration of cold inside.

It is very important that the door is a reliable keeper of hot air and steam inside the steam room. Therefore, the door is often first sheathed with heat-insulating material and only then decorated with clapboard.

Very often in Lately To create an airtight room, they use metal-plastic versions of doors, and although this is not at all traditional for Russian steam rooms, it must be said that they work effectively. Moreover, it is quite possible to order decorative cladding metal-plastic construction wooden clapboard. Moreover, it is even recommended to do this so that the metal on the door does not overheat.

Decorative cladding of ceilings and walls and completion of work

To cover the steam room, you need to choose the “right” tree that will create a healthy atmosphere inside the room - it can be oak or linden, larch or cedar. Particularly resinous rocks are absolutely not suitable coniferous trees, such as pine. The latter, when heated, can release drops of resin, which can even accidentally get burned.

The sheathing begins from the ceiling. The lining is installed on the sheathing using the tongue-and-groove system and secured using special metal holders (clasps). It is in them that nails or staples are hammered, then becoming invisible, since To The liner is covered with a tenon of the next lining panel.

Having installed the lining on the ceiling, they proceed to work on the walls. The covering proceeds in parallel with the installation of shelves and is carried out in a certain sequence:

First, use a level and a marker to mark the surface of the walls. The stepped design of the shelves is arranged in two or three levels, depending on the height of the ceiling of the room.
It is necessary to determine at what height the shelves will be located, their width and configuration. The width of the shelves usually varies from 400 to 600 mm, depending on the size of these elements that allows the steam room area to be made. The bottom shelf must be located at least 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.
Next, the material is prepared - boards and bars prepared for the manufacture of shelves, as well as lining panels, are sawn.

It is also necessary to have special device(measure) which will be measured gaps between boards, fromwhich The seats and side walls of the shelves are assembled.
If necessary, additional bars are attached to the wall, which will form a reliable base for the shelves.
When installing the lining, you need to remember to drill holes in the right places to bring the electrical cable out, and also cut openings for installing ventilation doors or other devices.
The next step is to install the lining on the walls under the frame for the shelves; it is fixed in the same way as on the ceiling.
Next, the side and front parts of the shelves are sheathed, and do not forget to measure the distance between the sheathing boards. Such gaps are necessary for free air circulation in any direction, as well as for the wood to dry out as quickly as possible after the next “session” of using the bathhouse.
The sheathing boards are fixed above the frame beam exactly to the thickness of the boards from which the seat of the element will be assembled.
Next, the seat is assembled, the boards of which are also fixed at a certain distance, which is controlled by a measurement. The boards are fixed on slats laid perpendicular to them, having a thickness of 8-10 mm, then they are laid and screwed to the stepped structure.
After laying the seat, the lining is installed on the wall, which is located behind and above the seat.
When the shelves are mounted and the lining is fixed around them on the surface of the walls, the remaining walls are sheathed.

Before the final paneling, there should be a “pie” like this on the walls

Prices for lining, imitation timber, block house

Lining, imitation timber, block house

The penultimate stage in the design of the steam room is consolidation and floor skirting boards. If necessary, these elements are installed in corner connections. It should be noted that these cladding parts are used only as a last resort, if the lining at the joints of the planes is not neatly fitted. However, you need to remember that it is better to do without them, since moisture will collect in the gaps between the baseboards and the main sheathing, which over time will contribute to the emergence of fungal or mold colonies.

At the end of the work, ventilation doors and lighting fixtures are installed. It is important to remember that the connections of wires to lamps must be carefully insulated.

After installing lamps and shades, electrical cables are connected to the power supply and switches, which are recommended to be installed outside the steam room.

The last step is installing the stove and connecting it to the chimney.

Seen: an object lesson on equipment and finishing of a steam room

In the presence ofinstructions for finishing the steam room, necessary tools and high-quality materials, such work can be carried out independently. However, I would like to remind you that it is recommended to entrust electrical work to a specialist who will ensure reliable insulation of all connections of the lamps, as well as professionally carry out cabling to the power supply system.

Something similar can be noted about the system for removing combustion products from the furnace. The chimney also “really dislikes” the amateurish approach, because often the safety of the building, the health and even the life of the bathhouse owners will depend on the quality of the work performed.

Interior decoration is the most important stage in the design of any bathhouse, and the Finnish sauna is no exception. You can handle the finishing work yourself. You just need to understand the basics of the work ahead and carry out all the activities step by step in accordance with the most important recommendations.

First of all, you must choose materials that are optimally suitable for the interior of the Finnish sauna. In the steam room the air temperature will rise to high values. The materials must be such that sauna visitors cannot get burned.

Finishing can be done using materials that heat up to a maximum of 50-60 degrees. Only wood and ceramic tile. The walls near the stove and the stove unit itself are lined using various natural materials.

The use of paints and varnishes for finishing a Finnish sauna is strictly prohibited.

Wood must be treated with special water-repellent compounds that can prevent excessive moisture and rotting of the material. Such hydrophobic compounds do not change the color and texture of wood and are completely safe for human health.

Features of different types of wood

The modern market offers a huge selection of a wide variety of wood materials suitable for interior decoration of a bathhouse. Be sure to study the features and basic properties of the available options.

Abashi

This is an African oak. Among the main advantages of this type of wood, the following points should be highlighted:

high strength;
durability;
relatively light weight;
absence of knots and resinous discharge.

The oak finish does not burn the skin. The only one significant drawback material is its high price.

Cedar

Altai, Ussuri and, of course, Canadian breeds are suitable. Advantages:

resistance to excess humidity, high temperatures and temperature changes;
resistance to fungi, insects, rot;
excellent aesthetic qualities;
good aroma.

In alternative medicine, cedar takes pride of place and is considered a healing material that has a calming effect on the body and destroys pathogenic bacteria.

Linden

One of the most widely used finishing materials. Main advantages:

high strength and sufficient hardness with relatively low weight;
normal tolerance of high temperature and excess humidity;
pleasant aroma;
beautiful colour;
medicinal properties.

Alder

An excellent material with healing properties and a pleasant, non-burning surface. Alder does not emit resin, which is a very important advantage in conditions of elevated temperatures.

When heated, the material changes color slightly, and when cooled, the color returns to its previous state. This gives additional aesthetic pleasure during bath procedures.

Larch

Tree of the pine family. It has high strength and a pleasant-to-touch surface. When heated, it gives a pleasant aroma and releases many beneficial substances. Larch is characterized by a long service life even in conditions of high temperature and humidity.

Pine

If you want to use pine or spruce wood to decorate your Finnish sauna, pay attention only to wood from the northern regions. Spruces and pines from Finland stand out against the general background.

Wood has a high density and does not lose its original properties for a very long time. Pine normally tolerates contact with moisture, does not rot and is not affected by fungi if handled correctly. High-quality pine fills the steam room with a pleasant smell.

Aspen

Budget finishing material. The wood contains no resins. Aspen is easy to process. The new material has a nice White color. However, after a while the aspen begins to darken. Also, the disadvantages of the material include the tendency to various tree diseases.

Birch

It has a strong and uniform structure. When exposed to high temperatures, it may become slightly deformed. To prevent this from happening, you need to buy high-quality dried material. It has a pleasant color and healing properties.

Sequence of finishing work

Interior finishing work in a Finnish sauna begins with the arrangement of the floor. Then the ceiling is decorated, and finally the walls.

If possible from the device wooden floors You should avoid going to the sauna. Of course, with a plank floor, the interior of the steam room will look more organic and intact, however, drying such floors is very difficult. Usually, owners do not pay due attention to drying, as a result of which the steam room quickly begins to smell unpleasantly of rotten wood.

That is why it is best to use ceramic tiles for tiling the floor in a steam room.

First step. Level the base for the tiles. To do this, pour a regular concrete screed. At the same stage, arrange the foundation for the future stove. Select the dimensions of the base in accordance with the dimensions of your furnace unit. Make the height such that the foundation rises above the floor by about 10 cm.

Fill the screed so that the finished base for the tiles is tilted approximately 1% towards the location of the water collection pit.

Second step. Make a pit near the location of the stove. From the pit, lay a drain pipe with a diameter of 5 cm to the street.

Third step. Lay the tiles on a dry base. It is best to use clinker tiles - they do not slip even when wet.

Start tiling from the corner furthest from the entrance to the steam room. To fix the tiles, use a special heat-resistant adhesive. Apply adhesive composition onto the base using a comb spatula. The optimal thickness of the glue layer is 1.5-2 mm.

The joints between the tiles must be identical. To comply with this requirement, use special plastic crosses. Make seams up to 4 mm wide. Remove excess glue from seams immediately.

Fourth step. After the glue has dried (usually it takes 1-3 days), start grouting the joints. It will help you with this rubber spatula and special grout. Choose the grout color at your discretion. After grouting, wipe the floor with a damp sponge.

Fifth step. Place wooden grates on the floor.

The ceiling of a Finnish sauna is subjected to the most intense thermal effects. The best option for such premises is a suspended ceiling structure.

First step. Assemble the frame of the structure from boards measuring 15x5 cm.

Second step. Attach to frame boards plastic film. It will help you with this construction stapler with staples.

Third step. Place the selected insulation into the cells of the frame. Usually mineral wool is used.

Fourth step. On top of the insulation, attach a vapor barrier membrane material to the frame boards.

Fifth step. Attach perpendicular slats about 3 cm thick to the frame boards. These slats need to be attached in increments of about 6 cm.

Sixth step. Attach clapboard boards to the slats. For fixation, use clamps or other convenient fasteners.

If a stove that requires the installation of a chimney will be used in the bathhouse, install a special flange or a passage unit into the ceiling. These elements are sold in specialized stores of furnace equipment and accessories for steam rooms.

Wall cladding

Before you start decorating the walls, ensure that the steam room has sufficient ventilation. To do this, create through holes in the walls for air inflow and outlet.

Arrange the supply channel at a height of up to 50 cm from the floor, preferably not far from the stove. Place the hood on the opposite side to the supply duct at a distance of about 50 cm from the ceiling. Install on the holes ventilation grates, preferably wooden. After this, you can proceed directly to finishing the walls.

First step. Attach vertical support posts to the base. To fix these elements, use screws or nails. First, attach the corner posts, stretch a rope between the outer supports and, guided by it, align all the internal beams in increments corresponding to the width of the selected insulation.

Second step. Place waterproofing film on the wall and attach it to the studs using a stapler.

Third step. Place insulation on top of the film into the cells of the frame.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier material. Attach the vapor barrier to the studs using a stapler.

Fifth step. Nail perpendicular slats over the posts.

Sixth step. Attach the clapboard to the slats. Place the sheets vertically. To secure the sheathing, use clamps or other convenient fasteners.

If you decide to fasten the lining in a horizontal position, do the work in the same order, but do not stuff the perpendicular slats, but attach the sheets directly to the racks. In such a situation, you will need to use racks that protrude 2-3 cm above the thermal insulation. Start the sheathing from the bottom.

Cover the walls near the stove non-flammable materials. The best option is natural minerals such as soapstone, jadeite, etc. These same minerals are perfect for finishing a stove.

Finishing work

Install the door. Basswood canvases are usually used. The size of the door to the steam room should be at least 190x70 cm. A door made of tempered glass is also perfect.

If your sauna design includes windows, give preference to double systems to ensure better thermal insulation. If possible, windows should be placed at a short distance from the floor.

To illuminate the sauna, use lamps that are resistant to high temperatures and excess humidity. Most the best option– fiber optic lighting devices.

In conclusion, all you have to do is lay out or install a ready-made stove unit and very soon you will be able to enjoy the warmth of a Finnish sauna you have personally finished.

Good luck!