Drying oil for wood is a natural protection for wood. Is it possible to paint over drying oil and what paint is best to do this? Can drying oil be mixed with varnish?
Drying oil for wood - natural wood protection
It is no secret that wooden surfaces treated with varnish or paint have a significant disadvantage - they become cold and lifeless. If you intend to preserve the beauty of texture, warmth and energy, we recommend that you pay attention to such a material for wood processing as drying oil.
Content
- Compositions for wood - drying oil comes in different forms
- Processing wood with natural drying oil - application features
- Semi-natural, combined, synthetic – areas of application of drying oils
- What is drying – we saturate the wood
1 Compositions for wood - drying oil comes in different forms
Drying oils are a whole range of film-forming impregnations, which are traditionally based on vegetable oils that have undergone special processing. To improve the quality of oils, they undergo oxidation procedures and heating at high temperatures. Solvents are added to drying oil compositions to improve their viscosity - thanks to this, the impregnation can also be used for the preparation of special primers and putties, as well as oil-resin varnishes.
Drying oils can act as an independent protective and decorative coating wood, or as a primer layer before painting or puttying, as a component for the preparation of paint compositions.
Existing compositions can be divided into the following groups:
2 Processing wood with natural drying oil - application features
Most often, flaxseed, hemp and sunflower drying oils are found on the market. Natural linseed oil has a light transparent color. It is used for priming wooden, plastered and metal surfaces, as well as in the process of preparing wood putties, putties and plasters. pastes and for diluting light paints. The use of natural compounds is allowed indoors. How long does it take for natural drying oil to dry on wood? At a temperature of at least 20 °C – about 24 hours.
Hemp drying oil has a pronounced dark color. The scope of application of the composition is the same as that of flax. But this liquid is used for diluting dark, thickly grated paints. Compared to previous representatives of the group, sunflower impregnation dries more slowly - after a day, undried liquid will still be felt on the surface. Its peculiarity is high elasticity, but in terms of hardness, strength and water resistance it is inferior to hemp and linseed oil.
Natural compounds are excellent for treating wooden surfaces various instruments. Hunters love to soak gun stocks with them - after this the product lies very softly and warmly in the hand, it is pleasant to touch it with your cheek. However, for impregnation floor coverings this group is not like the film they create natural compositions, does not have high strength.
3 Semi-natural, combined, synthetic – areas of application of drying oils
Semi-natural drying oils are generally light brown in color. The resulting film on a wooden surface is characterized by hardness and good gloss, as well as fairly high water resistance. Basically, semi-natural formulations are used in combination with other paint and varnish materials or as a primer. Like natural drying oils, semi-natural ones do not have sufficient strength for processing floor coverings.
Manufacturers add modifiers to combined compositions that improve their qualities necessary for the production and dilution of thick paints. Combined drying oils are also used for priming wooden surfaces before plastering or painting.
Do not forget that the liquid dries for at least a day - it is not recommended to apply a layer of paint or plaster until completely dry.
Synthetic compositions are used not so much for impregnation, but as a basis for diluting dark oil paints for exterior painting, as well as for priming metal, concrete and plastered surfaces. Use synthetic drying oil and for preparing all kinds of putties and pastes.
4 What is drying – we saturate the wood
It should be noted that drying oil is in demand among lovers natural materials, which are absolutely safe for human health. However, in other respects (strength, penetration depth, durability), compositions based on natural oils have long been inferior to impregnations based on alkyd resins with fungicides and other modifiers.
Natural impregnation is most often used in caring for wooden products, which periodically, one way or another, need cleaning and polishing. For example, these could be carpentry tools. Drying oils made from natural oils also perform well in internal works– processed wooden surfaces They look very good, continue to breathe and scent the air. But for outdoor work it is better to use more modern substances that are resistant to temperature changes, moisture and pests.
How to saturate wood with drying oil - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Surface Preparation
Wooden surfaces should be degreased, cleaned and thoroughly wiped off dust. The surface must be dry.
Step 2: Application and impregnation
For application, you can use either a brush with long bristles, a roller, a paint sprayer or a rag made of natural fabric. The main thing is that as much liquid as possible gets onto the surface being treated. Give it time to absorb and then apply another layer. The procedure can be repeated until the surface is able to absorb.
Impregnation of wood with drying oil in one fell swoop is possible using a polyethylene bag. Take a regular bag (the main thing is that it’s whole) and pour a little liquid into it. Then place the product there, wrap the bag and seal the edges with tape. It takes several hours for complete impregnation.
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Drying oil is a film-forming composition made on the basis of natural vegetable oil - linseed, sunflower, soybean. In addition, drying oil contains a drying agent - a substance that accelerates drying.
Drying oil is used in the manufacture of oil paints and putties, as well as for impregnating wooden surfaces to protect them from rotting. In addition, it allows you to reduce the consumption of paint and varnish when painting work: experts advise using drying oil as a preliminary coating - first apply two or three layers of drying oil to the wood, and then cover it with oil paint or varnish.
Types of drying oil
Today there are three options for drying oil: natural, oxol and composite.
Natural drying oil(GOST 7931-76) 97%25 consists of natural vegetable oil (most often linseed, less often sunflower), the remaining 3%25 is a drier (a substance that promotes rapid drying). Natural drying oil is used for diluting thickly rubbed paints and for impregnating wooden surfaces indoors. Experts do not recommend using drying oil for outdoor work - it is expensive and impractical.
Oxol based on linseed oil is considered the best, because after drying it forms a hard, waterproof and elastic film and does not turn black for a long time. Oxol is intended mainly for treating wooden and plastered surfaces indoors. Applied to a plastered surface, oxol improves the adhesion of oil, alkyd, dispersion paints and putty. Oxol can also be used for external work, but it should be remembered that this material serves only for temporary preservation of the surface, so it must be painted, paint, varnish or enamel.
If you need cheaper oxol, you can buy its “sunflower” version, which can be used when treating wooden and plastered surfaces indoors, and outside you can only treat those surfaces that are under a canopy or roof to protect them from water, or even better - paint over a layer oil paint so that the tree does not start to rot.
The cheapest and most fragrant composition drying oils, they do not have a GOST number that would strictly regulate their composition, but they are produced according to technical specifications(THAT). The composition of combined drying oils includes chemical components that replace natural resins, petroleum polymer resins and others. by-products petrochemicals. It is better not to use composite drying oils to treat wall surfaces either in an apartment or on a balcony. They are toxic and harmful, and even after drying, they continue to smell for several years.
Tips for choosing
When purchasing composite drying oils, be careful!
If the drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), such drying oil will never dry out, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil based on fuse has a red color and a dark sediment.
If you treat the surface with drying oil made from osprey (a substance consisting of petroleum-polymer resins), it will either never dry out or begin to crumble. This drying oil is the most liquid, lightest and cheapest of all existing varieties.
When choosing and purchasing drying oil you should:
Have you finished the floor with wood and sanded it? What now? We have good options how to give even more beautiful view such an excellent finishing material as wood, and make it resistant to external influences.
Sanding is critical
If during normal floor processing, sandpaper No. 40, 60 and 100 is suitable for pre-grinding, then when planning to process with an alkaline solution, soap or drying oil, sanding should be even more thorough. After sanding the floor sandpaper 100 grit using a sander and baseboard sander, simply place a No. 120 or even No. 150 sanding mesh under a single disc grinding machine and sand the wood again. Do this thoroughly and remove wood dust from time to time. Sand the edges and corners using a detail sander or by hand, also using 120 or 150 grit.
Lye and soap
Alkaline solutions are very caustic liquids that easily change the structure of a wooden surface chemically. The main effect that is obtained is that soft spruce wood does not darken over time as a result of exposure to sunlight, and soft pine wood does not acquire a reddish (in the core area) or yellowish (in the sapwood area) tint. The alkaline solution is applied to wet sanded wood (rubber gloves are required!).
It is very important to constantly stir the alkaline solution so that it is homogeneous, otherwise some components will settle to the bottom. After about 2 hours, the wood will turn a slightly whitish color.
Then you need to thoroughly rinse the surface with plenty of water with the addition of floor cleaner or remove any remaining alkali from the surface using a single-disc sander (use sanding mesh No. 150). Attention: different alkaline solutions are used for soft and hard wood. If you mix them up, the surface of the wood may become spotty.
Treating wood with an alkaline solution is only preparation for further surface treatment. Classically, first of all in Scandinavian countries, the floors are then soaped. Soap for wooden floors contains predominantly soy fat and Coconut oil odorless, which oil the wood from the inside. As a result, the wooden surface becomes moisture resistant and repels dirt. The soap is simply added to water, which is then applied to the tree using a fringed whisk. After drying, the procedure should be repeated at least three to four times. Later, soap should be added to the water every time you regularly wash the floors.
Drying oil
Applying drying oil is a very common surface treatment for plank floors after varnishing. Drying oil is not as durable as varnishes, but it helps to highlight the natural texture of the wood, which becomes softer and more pleasant to the touch.
First, apply drying oil evenly to the floor using a high-nap roller. After about 30 minutes, remove excess drying oil with a rag and rub the drying oil thoroughly using a single-disc sander and sanding net. After the surface has dried (about 6 hours), polish it with a sanding mesh until a uniform, low shine appears. After alkali, drying oil colored in White color to give the wood surface a light, slightly whitish tint. Dark drying oil can be applied without pre-treating the wood.
Wax
Wax, like drying oil, is also a natural product, which, after adding various substances to it, becomes suitable for treating the surface of wooden floors. Unlike drying oil, wax does not penetrate the wood very deeply, but it also does not form a film on the surface like varnish. A waxed surface always breathes actively. The commercially available so-called decorative wax is a mixture of wax and vegetable oil, which, in the same way as drying oil, is applied to a wooden surface and rubbed in. Colorless decorative wax is enough to apply twice.
Colored decorative wax needs protection, since pigments that are not able to penetrate the wood dissolve, and plank field Unsightly stains form. You can protect the wax by applying a colorless solid wax-oil on top and rubbing in. This way the color of the decorative wax will remain fresh for a long time.
Important: the more layers of wax, the more intense the coloring of the floor. The disadvantage is that with each layer the natural grain of the wood is hidden more and more. The perfect tool for spreading wax and oil - a professional spatula.
Varnish
Apply colored varnish to the newly sanded wooden floor– this is simply a sin, because varnishes form a layer on the surface that completely hides the texture of the wood. If you like intense colors on the floor, then you can varnish individual areas, for example, paint a carpet. Like all varnished surfaces, plank floors require a primer after thorough cleaning. Apply several layers.
Paint the floors first acrylic varnish using a short-nap roller. Then make a drawing if you wish. When the base layer of varnish has dried, it is quite possible to glue crepe or varnished fabric tape. Finally, after everything has dried, you should apply wax varnish twice. Then the surface will become resistant to daily abrasion. long term, and, accordingly, repairs will not have to be done soon.
Wooden floors can also be treated with vegetable oil varnish. It will adhere to all linseed and waxed floors that ordinary water-soluble varnish will not adhere to.
The prerequisite, however, is that the waxed/oiled floors have been sanded again using sanding mesh no. 150. First, the varnish is applied along the edges, then over the entire surface. You can walk on the floor after 6 hours, and the varnish will completely harden after 7 days.
Only wax varnish will make the varnished surface wear-resistant. We recommend applying it at least twice with a short-nap roller, sanding in between with a 150-grit sanding cloth.
Wood is often used in the construction and decoration of houses, because it is one of the most environmentally friendly pure materials. However, in order for the wooden elements of your home to last as long as possible, so that they are not destroyed by fungus and insects, they need to be protected. A product such as drying oil can easily cope with this task.
Application of impregnation
The use of drying oil allows you to increase the service life wooden elements designs for decades. This is especially true for rafters, because they are constantly exposed to moisture. Drying oils can be synthetic and natural, purely homogeneous, polydiene, synthetically modified, slate, coumaron-indene, etc. The use of this product will not harm either people or animals. After all, at its core is vegetable oil(up to 97%). Impregnation of facade wooden elements with drying oil allows you to protect them from changes in temperature and air humidity and, of course, from atmospheric influences. When treating a wooden surface with this composition, it forms a hard, but at the same time elastic, which protects the wood from external influences, including from fungal infection. Natural drying oil made from sunflower, soybean. The best product is considered to be based on linseed oil.
Currently, there are many impregnations that have a chemical basis and, by the way, have excellent characteristics. But at the same time, drying oil has not lost its relevance. The use of natural impregnation, in addition to being environmentally friendly, has another important advantage - the low cost of such material. Drying oil is mainly intended for interior decoration, its use in outdoor work gives only a temporary effect, requiring further coating with oil or varnish. Drying oil is also used in the manufacture of putties. The use of such products protects wooden surfaces from rotting. The use of drying oil as a pre-treatment reduces the amount of varnish when performing paint and varnish work. Usually the product is applied in two or three layers, and after that the surface is painted. It is also recommended to heat the impregnation to a temperature of 80-90 degrees Celsius, and then apply it hot to the wood. In this way, higher quality and deep penetration composition into the pores of wood.
Drying oil: characteristics of impregnation
Nowadays, three types of drying oil are common: natural, “Oxol” and composite. Natural impregnation consists of 97 percent of natural oil, the remaining three percent is a drier (a substance that promotes rapid drying). Drying oil "Oxol" contains only 55 percent oil (linseed or sunflower), forty percent white spirit and 5 percent drier. This impregnation is cheaper than natural. Composite compositions are characterized by a pungent odor; they contain petroleum-polymer resins, which serve as substitutes for natural resins, as well as other petrochemical products. This type of drying oil is the cheapest. Composite impregnations are not recommended for use in residential premises, even on balconies, because even after drying these compounds still have a sharp, characteristic odor.
If someone varnishes an icon without first impregnating it with drying oil - well, this is completely strange, there’s nothing to talk about here, in my opinion. As far as I know, egg tempera requires obligatory impregnation with drying oil, otherwise over time the pigments turn white, lose color and the paint layer is destroyed quite quickly.
Drying oil recipe: liquid drier (cobalt or lead) is added to slightly warmed fresh linseed oil in a ratio of 1 to 10 (by volume). Drying time is approximately 4 hours.
Flaxseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus nuances) - oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linseed oil, regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without driers, begins to dry out from the upper surface layer; polymerized linseed oil is prepared under high pressure, and it begins to dry out simultaneously throughout the entire layer, but is more susceptible to yellowing and darkening subsequently. That’s all the fundamental difference, so that drying oil, raw or boiled, is essentially the same thing, but if during cooking, in addition to the drying agent, you add some scraps to it (if only you knew which ones and how many), it will turn out good oil varnish.
Regarding the time of drying, this is largely determined by the base - board and gesso, for example, I have dry linden boards, aged for many years, the drying oil is pulled like a sponge, for me it takes at least 12 hours, and even then after that the drying oil can sag dry, so you have to refill.
It’s still better for our business oxidized oil, since it is very important that the paint layer and the gesso and the board are saturated with drying oil as thoroughly as possible, since it is linseed oil, penetrating deeply into the tempera, that holds together and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in a damp and cold room, the drying oil itself begins to mold and darkens very quickly.
Since oil varnishes darken in dark, damp rooms, and alcohol varnishes become cloudy, as alternative option you can use “liquid wax” world famous Italian company OIKOS, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. “Liquid wax” is used to cover plaster type. stone, adheres well to walls exposed to condensation, waterproof, appearance It looks like milk and is completely transparent after drying.
The appearance of stains after drying This is due to the uneven content of the binder in the paint layer, which is why the gesso shows through where there is little of this binder, which especially looks bad on faces. To reduce this undesirable effect, you should try to paint with the same tempera texture as possible. Fat yolk stains on personal letters are unacceptable - they must be washed out and removed immediately. If, after applying a layer of melt and drying it to light, matte bald spots appear on the surface, then you need to add a binder and water to the tempera. Approaching the end of smelting, it is necessary to evaluate the filling of the tempera with a binder, and if there is a lack of it, it is necessary to dilute the binder with water and carefully “water” the paint layer with it in one or several steps, depending on the circumstances.
If you paint with a thick layer of paint, the risk of stains during drying is minimal. If the task is to write something thin layer Taking into account the clearance of the gesso, it is better to make tempera with an acceptable lack of binder and, after completing all the work on the site, additionally add a binder to the paint layer.
Well, for those who don’t know yet - There is such a control test for the degree of sufficiency of the binder in the paint layer: tempera is applied over the dried surface with a wet brush; if the mark is darker than the caller, it means there is not enough binder, you need to add it; if, on the contrary, the mark is lighter, then everything is fine, nothing needs to be added.