Why does garlic turn yellow in the garden beds in the spring - what to do, what to treat it with and how to deal with it? How to treat spring and winter garlic before planting Process garlic in the spring.

The garlic leaves have turned yellow... Why does garlic turn yellow in the spring? What to do? How to prevent this phenomenon? Could it be a disease? Then what to process with? Or maybe he is missing something? How and what to feed? This phenomenon is not uncommon in our gardens. We usually see garlic leaves starting to turn yellow from the tips. Then this yellowing increases, the development of the plant is accordingly delayed, and the bulbs form smaller. The reasons may be different.

The main reasons for yellowing of garlic leaves in spring

Firstly, the leaves of winter garlic turn yellow in early spring, after it is exposed to severe frost. This is one of the reasons.

Secondly, this can happen if the bulb is infected with some kind of fungal disease.

These are just two reasons. They seem to be obvious; we can ourselves determine the reason for the yellowing of garlic leaves. In the morning we woke up, and there was frost on the grass and the puddles were covered with thin ice. Or they pulled out an onion and saw that on the bottom, the roots had turned black, and mold had appeared.

What to do after spring frosts? If the garlic has been caught by a light frost or there has been a frost, then it is advisable to immediately treat it, spray the leaves with a solution of any stimulant - HB-101, Epin, Zircon and others.

Garlic diseases

At the very beginning, I said that garlic can turn yellow from fungal diseases. They may be the cause of yellow leaves. It is difficult to treat fusarium and bacterial rot - it is easier to prevent. What to do? Before planting, the teeth had to be disinfected - pour a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate, or the Maxim drug, or the Fitosporin drug for 15-25 minutes. If you did not do this before planting, you can water the beds with these solutions for prevention.

But sometimes such obvious signs of the cause of yellowing are not observed. There were no frosts, the root on the bulb was clean. What's going on? What to do? What to process? Or maybe you need to feed it?

How to feed garlic in spring

One of the reasons why the leaves of garlic planted before winter turn yellow is a lack of nutrients. Most often, it lacks nitrogen or potassium. What to do? For feeding, you can use mineral or organic fertilizers.

Carefully loosen the rows. Make a shallow (1-2 cm) groove. Pour (sow) granular fertilizers there, for example, urea (urea) or some complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle the granules with soil. After this, water the entire bed with row spacing generously so that the fertilizer dissolves, since any plants absorb nutrients only in dissolved form. After this, you can mulch the wet bed with dry soil or compost to keep the soil moist for as long as possible.

This is one option for using mineral fertilizer.

Second option. First dissolve dry mineral fertilizer in water (1 tablespoon of urea or Fertika Lux per 10 liters of water), water. Consumption - 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m. This option is even preferable, since the liquid fertilizer immediately reaches the roots of the plants.

What else can you do? You can do foliar feeding. It is especially useful for young plants. You can feed with complex mineral fertilizer or potassium sulfate, which is also often lacking in garlic. The norm of potassium sulfate is 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water. Set your sprayer to a fine spray and spray all the leaves generously. This should be done in the evening in dry, windless weather, so that droplets of the nutrient solution fall on the leaves and do not dry out in the wind, but are completely absorbed.

For organic fertilizers, I use an infusion of cut green grass or weeds with the addition of wood ash. I described in detail how to make such green fertilizer in the article. A solution of this liquid “green fertilizer” can be used to water plants at the roots or to do foliar feeding.

Garlic planting dates

There is another reason for the appearance of yellow leaves on garlic. This is a failure to comply with planting deadlines. Beginning gardeners plant garlic early in the fall, for example, in early September. And it needs to be planted approximately two to three weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather. For the Krasnodar Territory this is November, for the middle zone - the end of September-October. Why is that? It should only have time to take root, but not grow. If we plant it early in the fall, then in the spring, after the snow melts, yellow leaves will appear on the garlic that sprouted too early. They just froze.

Garlic pests: onion fly, onion stem nematode

Pests can cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Examine the plants carefully. You notice small worms at the base of the leaves. These are onion fly larvae. What to process? You can get rid of them using a saline solution. To do this, take 200 g of table salt and dilute it in 10 liters of water. We spray with this solution. The worms will disappear.

The reason that the garlic leaves have turned yellow may be the onion stem nematode. This is perhaps the biggest nuisance. There is no use fighting her. Can live in soil, without water or food, for 8-10 years.

What does an infected plant look like? The plant begins to wither. The leaves lighten, curl, and the cracked bulb begins to rot. Dig up one head with yellowed, curled leaves. If it is damaged by a nematode, then at the bottom of the bulb there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish coating - these are small worms that can only be seen through a magnifying glass with 10-20x magnification - they are 1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm thick. A white or pinkish coating on the bottom of the bulb is an accumulation of the pest. What to do? Such plants will have to be destroyed. Next year, plant garlic and onions in another bed.

What to process? Currently, there are no effective means of controlling the nematode. Before planting, it is recommended to soak the garlic cloves in hot (40-45°C) water for at least 2 hours or in a 3% solution of table salt for 25-30 minutes at a temperature of 20-22°C. Such treatment will not completely destroy the nematode, but will significantly reduce its number and curb the spread of the pest. In the future, be more attentive to the selection of planting material.

The nematode loves acidic soils. Therefore, deoxidize the infected area with lime or dolomite flour. The nematode lives in plant debris and lumps of earth. In infected areas, sow marigolds and calendula (marigolds). Marigolds and calendula attract the nematode with their smell; they follow this smell, stick to the roots, and the juice of these plants is poisonous to it and it dies.

Let's now summarize and briefly list the reasons why garlic may turn yellow.

The seedlings were frozen.
The soil lacks basic nutrients - nitrogen and potassium.
They planted it too early - it began to grow before the onset of cold weather.
Planting material or soil is contaminated with spores of pathogenic fungi or stem onion nematode.
Onion fly larvae damaged.
Drought, insufficient watering, and dense soil can also cause yellowing.

Having determined the reason why your garlic turns yellow, you can answer the questions yourself - what to do, what to process and feed.

Sometimes all attempts to plant such an unpretentious crop as garlic are unsuccessful. The resulting harvest turns out to be small and rots quickly, even after complete drying. This is due to common mistakes that most inexperienced gardeners make. To get a good garlic harvest, you need to learn the intricacies of processing this healthy vegetable before planting.

Reasons for damage

If the garlic has not been prepared for planting, the harvest will deteriorate. The main causes of vegetable rotting are damage by various pathogenic bacteria. Garlic rot is the most common disease that occurs in vegetable gardens in the central zone. Treating the cloves before planting before winter easily solves this problem. If a vegetable is planted in the spring, then the soil must also be disinfected.

Improper disinfection before planting can also spoil planting material. If the concentration of substances used for treatment is not chosen correctly, they will either burn the teeth or clean them poorly. You need to know not only what to soak the garlic in before planting, but also for how long.

Garlic processing

You need to take large, well-dried garlic for planting. They should not show any signs of damage. This is a guarantee that the vegetable has ripened and has not begun to rot. The heads are disassembled into teeth. The best cloves without damage are selected for planting. The bottom of the teeth should be dry, even light gray in color. Exfoliating scales are peeled off.

Garlic is processed before planting before winter using the following means:

Manganese (potassium permanganate) is a powerful antiseptic. In order not to burn the vegetable during disinfection, the solution is made in a weak concentration. It is identified by color. The treatment solution is made slightly pink. The water needs to be cool. If you soak the teeth in a warm solution, they can wake up in the fall and then begin to gain green mass. This is unacceptable during winter. Treatment is carried out immediately before planting. If there is no fear that the material is infected with garlic rot, the teeth are immersed in the solution for 30 minutes. When cases of illness occur, the vegetable is disinfected in the solution for 60 minutes. Then it is planted in the usual way.
Table salt is a substance that destroys all pathogenic bacteria and fungi. Prepare a solution at the rate of 3 tbsp. /5 liters of water. Soak the teeth for 3 minutes before planting. If there are already vegetable diseases in the area, after salting it is necessary to also treat it with copper sulfate for 1 minute. A solution of copper sulfate needs 1%.

Copper sulfate - when used without salt, the material should be soaked in a 1% solution for 10 hours. This treatment of garlic before planting is often carried out in the evening, so that the cloves can be planted immediately in the morning.
Ash solution - the product performs 2 functions at once. It destroys pathogens and saturates the tooth with minerals necessary for quality growth. Prepare the product in the proportion of 1 tbsp/1 liter of water. You need to take fine ash, as large pieces will not dissolve. Before planting in the fall, garlic is kept in an ash solution for 1 hour. If you want to use ash in the spring for fertilizing, you need to keep the teeth in its solution for 30 minutes.

When choosing how to treat garlic in the fall before planting, you can also consider special preparations sold in gardening stores. The most popular of them are:

Maxim – 1 ampoule is designed for 1 liter of water. Leave the teeth in the solution for 30 minutes and then immediately plant them. Afterwards, you can put the bulbous flowers into the processing solution. Then pour the used product onto the garden bed to disinfect the soil.
Phytolavin - the peculiarity of the product is that it treats already affected plants, and does not just prevent their diseases. The instructions for the composition indicate the dosages.
Fitosporin - M - treatment of garlic with this product before planting in the fall is carried out if there are foci of vegetable diseases on the site. Natural origin based on beneficial soil bacteria makes the medicine completely safe. Bacteria destroy pathogens, fungi and spores of pathogens. Dilute the drug according to the instructions and keep the teeth in it for 60 minutes.

If a gardener is looking for how to treat garlic before planting in the spring, he should give preference to the solutions from the first list.

After what plants to plant?

The harvest is better if you plant the crop after some plants that have already been harvested by the time the vegetable is planted in the fall. Suitable beds where they grew:

carrot,
turnip,
spices,
greenery,
cucumbers,
pumpkin,
legumes

Planting garlic after nightshades does not affect its size.

By properly processing the planting material, you don’t have to worry about the safety of the harvest. Having dug up and dried the vegetable, it will be preserved until the next season.

Winter garlic shoots appear very early, immediately after the snow melts. It is at this time that the foundation is laid for the future harvest of this healthy and unpretentious vegetable - an aromatic seasoning and a storehouse of vitamins and microelements necessary for our body.

Spring garlic care

The success of growing garlic lies in timely and proper care. The first thing to do in early spring is to remove the protective cover from the beds. You cannot be late for this event, otherwise the young green feathers of the plant may be damaged and the seedlings may be damaged.

Beds with winter garlic are covered for the winter in order to protect the plant from the cold and prevent it from freezing

First feeding and pest control

When growing garlic, it is important to provide the plant with the necessary nutrients from the very beginning of the growing season. In the spring of the growing season, the crop needs nitrogen fertilizers, which will have a positive effect on leaf growth. For the first feeding, it is best to use urea, 1 tablespoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is used for root feeding at a rate of up to 3 liters per 1 square meter. m. Watering with nitrogen fertilizer is carried out early, as soon as the plant produces 3-4 leaves.

In rainy weather, it is better to use a granular composition rather than an aqueous solution of urea to fertilize garlic.

Dry fertilizing of garlic is carried out in furrows up to 2 cm deep, which are then sprinkled with earth.

For the second spring feeding, which is carried out 2-3 weeks after the first, experienced gardeners recommend using nitroammophoska, 2 tbsp. spoons of which are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The solution consumption rate is the same as when adding urea. Fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizer significantly affects the beginning of the formation of the garlic head.

Garlic also responds well to fertilizing with organic fertilizers, with the exception of fresh manure.

watering with Fitosporin, Maxim, 1% copper sulfate solution will protect garlic from fungal diseases;
treatment with Epin and Zircon activates the protective functions of the plant and increases its immunity;
Sprinkling the beds with ash and tobacco dust is good protection against pests.

The ash will not only repel pests, but will also nourish the garlic with essential microelements.

Loosening and weeding

Garlic responds well to loosening the soil, which is necessary for good air circulation. This procedure must be carried out regularly, after each watering or rain, avoiding the formation of a dense crust on the soil. The first loosening is organized early, in April, as soon as young shoots appear on the surface of the soil. Its depth should be no more than 2–3 cm. During subsequent treatments, the loosening depth is increased by approximately 1 cm, reaching a maximum of 10–12 cm - this is the level where the formation of garlic heads occurs.

On light sandy and sandy loam soils, where the roots are provided with oxygen, loosening can be carried out less frequently, and on heavy loamy soils it is necessary after each moistening

For young garlic shoots, an equally important procedure is the removal of weeds, which begin to grow rampant in the spring. Weeds, which grow very quickly, not only obscure the garlic shoots, but also take away the necessary nutrients from them and contribute to the spread of diseases and pests. The beds are cleaned manually, removing both the above-ground part of the weed and its roots.

Garlic does not like weeds and weeding has to be done several times as soon as weeds begin to appear.

In clean beds, garlic heads grow larger and healthier, as they receive enough nutrition and light.

Mulching the soil

Weeding and loosening are labor-intensive procedures. To reduce their number, it is recommended to mulch garlic plantings with peat, rotted manure, straw, sawdust, and dry grass. In addition to making it more difficult for weeds to get through the mulch, this procedure has a number of other positive aspects:

when peat and humus are used as mulch, the crop receives additional nutrition;
if mulching is carried out after the first loosening, then the moisture from the bed will not evaporate so quickly, and therefore a hard crust will not form on the surface, preventing good air exchange;
The mulch will rot over the season and become an excellent fertilizer for new cultivated plants.

When mulching with straw, its layer should be about 10 cm

Mulching will have a positive effect only if the features of using various compositions for covering the soil are taken into account:

the thickness of the layer when mulching with mown grass should not exceed 2 cm. A thicker layer can lead to the formation of a slimy mass;
straw used as mulch can attract mice and slugs;
dry grass contains a large number of weed seeds;
sawdust, as well as pine needles, have an acidifying effect on the soil, so they are recommended to be used only on soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction.

Rules for watering and saline treatment

Garlic loves moisture. With its deficiency, it does not die, but forms small heads and begins to turn yellow and dry ahead of time. It should be taken into account that excess moisture leads to the development of putrefactive diseases, deterioration of the taste of the cloves (they will be watery), as well as poor keeping quality of the heads. When organizing irrigation, you should focus on the weather and soil conditions. The need for soil moisture can be determined as follows:

dig a hole about 10 cm deep in the garlic bed;
Take a handful of earth from the bottom of the hole and squeeze it in your palm;
If the lump of earth does not crumble when squeezed, the garlic does not need watering. A crumbling handful signals the need for hydration.

The need for watering is not determined by the condition of the top layer of soil; it should not be allowed to dry out at the depth of formation and growth of heads

Watering is best done in the evening. During the day, the moisture partially evaporates, and during the night it will all be absorbed into the soil and moisten it as much as possible. An approximate watering scheme may look like this:

if the spring is rainy and damp, then there is no need to water the plantings;
in moderately hot weather with small amounts of natural precipitation, watering is carried out once every 7–10 days;
In hot, dry spring, watering is organized every 4–5 days with a consumption rate of at least a bucket of water per 1 square meter. m.

Frequent watering with small amounts of water is undesirable for garlic, since moisture, having wetted only the top layer of soil, quickly evaporates

In spring, the flight of the main garlic pest, the onion fly, begins. To repel it, preventative spraying of garlic plantings with saline solution is carried out:

Additional treatments with saline solution are carried out only if signs of pest damage to the garlic are observed: the seedlings begin to turn yellow, become brittle and stunted. In this case, spraying is carried out twice more with a break of 10–15 days, and the concentration of the solution should be the same as during preventive treatment.

Please note that sodium and chlorine contained in salt water can disrupt the ecology of the soil, deplete it, and inhibit the growth and development of plants. A saline solution can destroy and repel not only pests, but also beneficial insects, so it must be used carefully. If after two or three treatments no positive effect is observed, then other methods of pest control should be used.

Video: spring garlic care

If the garlic has not sprouted

Sometimes in a garden bed with garlic, instead of the expected friendly shoots, only individual sprouts appear. In this case, experienced gardeners advise digging up several planted cloves and assessing their condition:

If the clove is alive, strong, and its roots begin to grow, then you should water the garden bed, add fertilizer, and after a while the garlic will sprout. The reason for the delay is most likely that the planting was too deep or too late;
If the dug clove has become soft, has no root buds and shows signs of rotting, then it has frozen and will not sprout.

Garlic freezing can occur for several reasons:

winter garlic was planted early (in September-early October). In the fall, it managed not only to take root, but also to germinate;
the landing was too shallow (less than 5 cm);
the garlic bed is organized in the shade, so during severe frosts the ground froze earlier and deeper;
the plantings were not covered for the winter with spruce branches, fallen leaves or other available material.

In this case, planting spring garlic, which is carried out at the end of April, will help save the situation. Winter garlic planted in the spring most often produces a single-claw bulb, which will not be stored for long and should be immediately processed.

Spring care of garlic is standard and simple, but in order not to forget to carry out all the required measures, it is recommended to draw up a schedule of fertilizing and treatments. It will help you provide the plant with nutrients in a timely manner and prevent diseases and pests.

A garden in which a person independently grows vegetables for himself and his family is undoubtedly an important and useful undertaking. But a lot of unforeseen problems may arise in the process. This article talks about what to do if the garlic in the garden turns yellow in the spring. How to feed or treat the plant.

Most often, yellowing of the leaves indicates violations of the agricultural technology of growing the plant. But the reasons can be completely different and need to be examined in each specific case separately.

Garlic leaves begin to turn yellow at the tips (chlorosis). This yellowness gradually spreads to the entire leaf, which leads to its complete drying out or slow growth. Accordingly, the bulbs do not grow to the required size, or even rot altogether.

Why does garlic turn yellow in spring?

Knowing the cause of this phenomenon and the ability to correctly identify it will help every gardener cope with the problem and prevent it from happening again in the future. There are five main reasons why garlic turns yellow:

severe frosts and frosts,
poor quality of seed material,
wrong landing time,
diseases and pests,
excess or lack of moisture in the soil,
increased soil acidity,
lack of micro- and macroelements in the soil.

Now let's talk about each in more detail and see what to do if the garlic turns yellow in the spring?

Severe frosts and frosts

This the most common reason. There may be two options why winter garlic turned yellow:

Imprisoned too early

Planting timing is extremely important for any plant, and garlic is no exception. If you plant it too early, it may not only have time to take root, but also sprout its first leaves.

In the spring, this will certainly lead to yellowing of the leaves, since it will not be difficult for frost to damage them.

For the middle zone, the optimal time to plant winter garlic is October.
For the southern regions it is better to choose November.

Severe frosts in winter or frosts in early spring

This option does not depend on the human factor, since it is almost impossible to influence weather conditions. As in the previous case, the first leaves of winter garlic that appear may be subject to spring frosts, which will result in their yellowing.

Severe frosts in winter can cause not only yellowing, but also complete freezing of the roots.

Didn't plant deep enough. This is one of the common reasons why garlic leaves are already growing yellow or with yellow tips, and is also associated with frost. Recommended planting depth: 4-6 cm.

To avoid these consequences, garlic planted before winter should be mulched with leaves or dry grass. Then, under a thick layer of mulch, frost will not be so terrible for garlic.

If you cannot avoid the negative effects of frost, you will have to use biological products that can help garlic cope with the consequences.

Excess or lack of moisture in the soil

Yellowing of the upper and lower leaves of garlic is often observed in dry and rainy weather. This is due to a violation of the air-water balance.

Regular but moderate watering is important for garlic. Especially in May and June.

It is necessary to loosen the soil to allow air to reach the roots of the plant.

Remember that garlic is more susceptible to overwatering than underwatering. Therefore, mulched beds should be watered as needed.

In the spring months, in normal weather, water two to three times a month.
In dry conditions - correspondingly more often.
In case of frequent rains, it is better to avoid watering altogether.

Completely stop watering garlic before harvesting it – a month before.

Diseases and pests

Photo: Downy mildew

Garlic is a crop that is often used to control diseases or pests, but also he has his own "enemies". They also often cause its leaves to turn yellow due to the damage they cause.

Main diseases and pests of garlic:

downy mildew;
rot;
rust;
mold;
nematode;
mite;
onion fly;
mole.

To determine what the main reason is, you need to dig up a head of garlic with yellowed leaves. See if there is rot at the base of the bulb, rotten roots, mold, larvae, or a pink coating on its lower part. If there is any of the above, you have found the cause of the yellowing.

How to process garlic in spring?

Here it is necessary to spray with special fungicide preparations to combat diseases, and for onion flies it is better to do mixed planting, but there are no effective recipes for nematodes.

Used for watering beds, about 1 cup per plant. The next day, be sure to rinse with clean water!

In a similar way, you can use a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

The best remedy for diseases and pests is prevention.

More information about the garden.

Apply the principles of crop rotation for garlic, without planting it in the same place for several years in a row.
When planting garlic, treat the cloves with fungicides.
To prevent the accumulation of diseases, you need to change the seed at least once every 4 years.
To prevent nematodes, calendula, mint, marigolds, and coriander are planted next to garlic, the roots of which are poisonous to it.
You should not use fresh manure to feed garlic.

Increased soil acidity

Garlic requires neutral acidity in the soil for planting and growing. If there are problems with high acidity, then you need to correct this - to do this, dig up the ground and add lime.

It should be added gradually directly under digging, that is, immediately mixed with the ground. Amount of lime:

very acidic soil - 60 kg per hundred square meters,
medium sour – 45 kg,
slightly acidic – up to 30 kg.

Lack of micro- and macroelements in the soil

If none of the previous reasons are suitable (the weather is warm, there are no diseases or pests, everything is in order with watering and soil acidity), and the garlic leaves still turn yellow, then only a lack of micro and macroelements in the soil remains.

If the lower leaves turn yellow, this may mean that nutrients are being used to form future heads of garlic.

The most common causes are a lack of nitrogen, magnesium or potassium in the soil. This can only be corrected by feeding.

early spring - lack of nutrition (roots grow slowly and do not have time to provide the plant),
at other times - lack of nitrogen,
when grown on poor soils, there may be a lack of potassium.

How to feed garlic in spring and what to water it with

For garlic, one fertilizing is enough, when the soil has not yet completely thawed. In most cases, this is enough to prevent problems with nutrient deficiencies in the future.

To do this, use the following recipe:

dissolve 6 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of superphosphate and 6 g of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water;
watering is carried out from a ratio of 10 liters of water/m2;
If necessary, you can repeat this feeding in a month.

You can use ready-made preparations specifically for garlic, for example, Agricola 2, Kemiru Fertika.

Folk recipes

For those who prefer to use folk recipes, you can use herbal infusions with ash, use humus or urea.

Mulching with humus

Chicken manure kept in a heap for more than 2 years and any other organic matter.

Herbal infusion

To prepare this infusion, simply pour water into a large container (for example, a 200 liter barrel) of cut grass or any weeds (use nettle effectively) and add wood ash.

Let it brew for 3-5 days and use the resulting solution to water the garlic at the root or do foliar feeding.

This feeding is useful for all bulbous plants. Can be used for foliar feeding or applied to the soil.

Foliar:

0.3 kg ash,
10 liters of water.

Boil the ash in boiling water for 20 minutes. Strain and dilute in 10 liters of water. For better adhesion, you can add 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap.

Urea

1 match boxes per 1 m2 (in the soil) or per 10 l (watering - 3 l/m2).

For urea, you first need to loosen the row spacing and make small grooves into which urea or other fertilizers are placed.

Then the garlic is watered and covered with humus or compost. This feeding is repeated after 2 weeks, but with the addition of complex fertilizers.

Foliar feeding. Urea is used at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters. For young plants, foliar feeding with complex fertilizers or potassium sulfate is well suited.

Already yellowed plants should also be fed and sprayed with complex fertilizers. But you can’t overdo it in this matter.

Garlic is a popular crop in our gardens. Some people use it to improve the taste of dishes and preserves, others treat colds and ward off the flu, while others fight spirits and vampires. But on every site there is always a place for this plant. Every gardener faces the problem of yellowing garlic leaves. To choose the right method of treatment or care, you need to determine the cause of the color change.

Wrong landing site

Garlic is a light-loving, sunny crop. In the shade of trees, a house, or a fence, it does not grow, but survives. No fertilizer can replace ultraviolet irradiation. Therefore, if there is opportunity and space, you need to plant additional spring garlic in an open area in the spring.

Leaves may turn yellow due to the presence of unwanted neighbors, for example, peas! If these crops happen to be nearby in your garden, you can speed up the ripening of peas with various fertilizers. When the harvest is harvested, remove the plants by the roots and generously feed the garlic with ash and highly diluted slurry. If the peas are early and early ripening, the garlic will have time to rehabilitate itself and will delight you with full heads.

Climate troubles

The cause of yellowing leaf tips may be early frosts in the fall, if the garlic is winter, or return frosts in the spring. The gardener’s task in this case is not to treat, but to support the plant. Prepare the herbal infusion: dump all the cut grass, weeds, vegetable trimmings from the kitchen into a barrel of water, add ash. The components can be taken in free proportion - we throw what we have. The plant mass should occupy at least half the container. We insist from 4 days in hot weather to 2 weeks in cool weather. We dilute 1 liter of herbal fertilizer with water to 10 liters and water the beds.

Preventive measures: plant garlic to a depth of more than 5 cm, mulch the bed. If autumn drags on and shoots appear before frost, cover the top with a second layer of mulch. Delay the planting date to winter as much as possible. It is believed that the clove must take root before frost. But the ground does not immediately freeze to 5 cm, even when the temperature drops below 0, and under mulch this process takes much longer. Therefore, with the arrival of minuses, the plant has at least another week left for rooting.

Prolonged drought and lack of watering can also cause yellowing and further drying of the leaves. This does not have a serious effect on the growth of the head mass, but the plant needs help. You can feed it with herbal infusion or a solution of salt and ash. Pour the ash into a container with water, stir well and leave for 24 hours. Add salt, thoroughly dissolving the sediment. Proportion: 1 bucket of water: 200 g of ash: 100 g of salt. Spray after sunset, after 1 hour, water with a sprinkler hose.

Another extremely rare climate problem that causes yellowing of garlic is blind or fungal rain. Drops settling on the leaves act as lenses through which the sun burns plant tissue. The same effect is caused by overhead watering in sunny weather.

Garlic turns yellow due to acidic soil - what to water it with?

It is better to work with acidic soil before planting plants on it. You can add lime, dolomite flour, chalk. After treatment, the area needs to be dug up and watered so that the beneficial substances are at the level of the roots of future crops. Supporters of natural farming use green manure - rye and mustard. After the green mass grows, it is mowed and plowed into the ground. After a month you can start planting; the acidity level is much lower.

When the garlic has sprouted, digging is unlikely, so we will use ash and ground eggshells. We prepare the ash solution a day before feeding so that it has time to brew. The shells are added right before application to the beds. The proportions are free; such a mixture cannot harm plants. You can simplify your work and simply scatter the ingredients over the garden bed, watering well with sprinkling.

Lack of nitrogen - what to do?

This problem is easy to diagnose; everything in the garden begins to turn yellow. The slurry is infused for at least a week: a liter jar of manure or a half-liter of bird droppings in a bucket of water. Before watering, dilute 10 times. After application, water the area well so that the nitrogen reaches the roots. You should not get carried away with such fertilizer; nitrates, which are undesirable for humans, are deposited in root crops. And the plant will begin to develop the above-ground part to the detriment of the head. The herbal infusion is much softer, but also slower. In combination with watering, they can be used to feed all crops every 2 weeks.

Garlic turns yellow due to fungal infections - how to fertilize it?

This is the most serious problem in the garden. It is extremely difficult to defeat infections while the plants are in the garden. There are a number of preparations containing copper and chlorine, which sometimes defeat diseases, but chlorine depresses garlic plantings, and the accumulation of copper in root vegetables depresses our bodies. Preventative methods include crop rotation, purchasing seed from trusted producers, or growing your own healthy garlic from seeds in two seasons.

Soaking the planting cloves in a solution of potassium permanganate is also used. If the fungus manifests itself at the end of the growing season, you can dry the beds, completely eliminating watering. In case of rain, cover the area with waterproof material. The fungus needs moisture, but garlic does without water before harvesting.

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Yellow leaves on garlic seedlings: causes, solutions.

With the onset of the spring thaw, the first thing to appear in the beds of amateur gardeners is fragile green garlic. Vegetable growers' joyful observations of the successful growth of their seedlings are sometimes overshadowed by the appearance of yellow leaves.
What is the reason? Something went wrong? How to get rid of yellowed leaves?

To avoid such a problem in the future, we will clarify all the answers to emerging questions in this article.

Why does garlic turn yellow in the garden in early spring: reasons

Spring chores for gardeners

Deep sowing. We sow garlic in the soil no deeper than 5 cm. Otherwise, the garlic cloves freeze, which leads to yellowing of the leaves.
The soil lacks nitrogenous microelements. We feed vegetables.
Increased soil acidity. We reduce it using nitrate, superphosphate, urea, manure or dolomite flour.
Insufficient watering and loose soil. Timely and uniform watering, followed by loosening the soil, reduces the risk of yellowing of garlic feathers.
Poor quality of seed material. Check each clove for integrity before sowing. Even if there is the slightest sign of rot, get rid of low-quality seeds.
Late or early planting of crops. An incorrectly chosen sowing time can lead to untimely germination of sprouts, which leads to frostbite. Subsequently, the hatched sprouts turn yellow.
All kinds of ailments and pests: white rot, fungus, onion fly, stem nematode.

If the cause of yellowing leaves is not frost, you can determine the exact disease as follows:

Pull out one onion and examine it carefully. The fungus colors the leaves with brownish-yellow stripes. The head of garlic becomes covered with brown spots and becomes soft.
Run your hand over the leaves; if the seedlings are infected with an onion fly, it will immediately circle around it.

In the absence of this reason, one thing remains - there are not enough nutrients for the vegetable crop.

How to water and feed garlic in the spring if the leaves turn yellow?

Fertilize the soil

If the leaves turn yellow during freezing, water them with growth-stimulating preparations:

Fitosporin
Epin-Extra, etc.

From yellowness on well-grown leaves we get rid of it by feeding:

Urea - 25-30 g - per 10 liters of water. We water the plants with the prepared solution
Zircon - 1 ml - per 10 liters of water. Spray garlic feathers for a week

To prevent yellowing, we do root feeding with potassium sulfate - 1 tsp. on a bucket of water.

Video: Fertilizing garlic from yellowing leaves

Diseases of garlic - leaves turn yellow: treatment with folk remedies

Onion fly: larvae

The small worms of the onion fly are underlying disease, which causes the leaves to turn yellow.

The most drastic measure against onion flies is considered saline solution We water the soil under the crop with a solution at the rate of 100 g per 5 liters. Then we water with ordinary water.
An excellent remedy in the fight against onion flies is wood ash and tobacco dust. It is enough to mix them in a free proportion and sprinkle between the rows with this mixture
Ammonia solution It will not only repel the onion fly, but will also serve as an excellent nitrogen fertilizer. Dilute 30 ml of ammonia in 10 liters of water, treat the garlic in the evening
Disinfect before planting manganese solution garlic cloves and soil, to avoid infection with fungal diseases
Plant next to garlic carrot. The onion fly does not tolerate this root crop. The smell of carrots will protect the integrity of the leaves of garlic seedlings

Video: Diseases and pests of garlic. Garlic turns yellow

Secrets of effective garlic care so that it does not turn yellow

Only with the help of proper care can you get a decent harvest.

Plant next to the vegetable crop: mint, thyme, calendula. This will save the seedlings from many garlic diseases.
To reduce the acidity of the soil, dig it with dolomite flour
Water the seedlings with 1 tbsp of ash dissolved in 10 liters of water. This will serve as a good soil fertilizer.
Maintain crop rotation. You can’t plant garlic after onions and potatoes. Plant vegetables in their original place no earlier than after 5 years
Having determined the cause of the disease, immediately take all necessary measures to eliminate the problem. Next, be sure to fertilize.

Preventive methods are the key to a successful harvest. It is easier to prevent a disease than to fight it intensively later.

An area where garlic leaves systematically turn yellow requires properly selected feeding. Fertilize the soil before sowing: nitrophoska, urea or saltpeter.

Video: Why does garlic turn yellow?

In early spring, the first crop that pleases the summer resident is winter garlic. But sometimes this joy is overshadowed by the sudden yellowing of the garlic feathers. Let's try to figure out together why this is happening and what measures need to be taken urgently.

There are the main and most common reasons why garlic turns yellow.

Garlic turns yellow due to frost

It is necessary to strictly adhere to the recommended planting dates for this vegetable crop. In regions with a warm climate, garlic is planted in November, and in other areas in September - October. If you do not follow these deadlines and plant garlic too early, it will have time to produce green feathers even before the onset of cold weather. It goes without saying that this garlic foliage will freeze during frosts and turn yellow with the arrival of spring.

There are exceptions even when planting deadlines are met. Sudden severe frosts in winter or unexpected spring frosts after steady warming will also lead to yellowing of young green feathers.

You can protect garlic from such weather problems using a layer of mulch. After planting garlic in the fall, immediately mulch the garlic beds with falling leaves. The thick leaf layer will not allow any frost to reach this healthy vegetable crop.

If it was still not possible to protect the garlic from frost, then you will need to spray with biological products. The solution should fall directly on the frozen leaves of garlic. Anti-stress drugs (for example, Epin, Zircon, Energen) should come to the aid of plants.

Garlic does not tolerate too much or too little moisture. In case of prolonged absence of precipitation and hot weather, it is recommended to water the garlic every other day. In average spring weather, watering is carried out 2-3 times a month. And if spring brings constant and prolonged rains, then you can forget about watering, since excess moisture will significantly harm the plant.

Garlic plants that are under a reliable layer of mulch will not require watering.

If possible, it is necessary to maintain a water-air balance favorable for garlic, even if it is disrupted due to the vagaries of the weather.

Garlic turns yellow due to diseases or pests

Very often, gardeners use garlic in joint or mixed plantings to protect themselves from pest invasions or the appearance of various diseases. But there are “troubles” from which garlic cannot protect itself - these are common vegetable diseases (for example, rot or powdery mildew) or numerous harmful representatives of fauna (for example, mites, onion flies or nematodes). With their appearance, the crop begins to hurt, and the garlic leaves turn yellow.

The first thing to do is to find the cause of the yellowing garlic feathers. Dig up one of the heads and garlic and inspect it carefully. Any changes in the appearance of garlic (for example, a pink coating on the bottom), the presence of damage (for example, the appearance of mold or rot on the roots and cloves) or larvae indicates the presence of harmful insects.

Infectious and fungal diseases can be defeated using various chemicals. You can destroy the onion fly by watering with salt (100 grams of salt per 5 liters of water). But it is impossible to defeat the nematode. Therefore, you should always remember about timely preventive measures:

Before planting garlic in the autumn, it is recommended to soak its cloves in a disinfecting manganese solution for twelve hours.
Seed material should be renewed as often as possible (at least once every three years).
It is necessary to change garlic beds annually.
Use mixed plantings (for example, garlic and calendula or marigolds). Only the roots of these flowers will not allow the nematode into the beds with garlic, since they are poisonous to it.

Lack of nutrients in the soil can also cause garlic to turn yellow. There is only one way to solve this problem - to apply the necessary fertilizing on time.

Of course, you need to start with preventive measures at the beginning of spring. While the earth has not yet completely thawed, it is enough to fertilize the garlic beds at least once and the garlic plantings will not be in danger of a deficiency of chemical elements and microelements.

It is recommended to water with a special liquid fertilizer, which consists of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate (5-6 grams each), superphosphate (10 grams) and 10 liters of water. This amount of fertilizing must be used for one square meter of land area. Usually it is enough to apply fertilizer once, but to consolidate the result, you can repeat this procedure after a month.

Adherents of organic farming can get by with natural fertilizers. Garlic is watered with various herbal infusions with the addition of wood ash.

If the garlic feathers have already begun to turn yellow, then first generously spray the vegetable plantings with any liquid complex fertilizer, diluted according to the attached instructions. And the next feeding should be applied at the root, after about 7-8 days.

Why does garlic turn yellow (video)

Often gardeners are faced with the following problem: garlic turns yellow in the spring; what to do in such cases, how to save the plants. It’s a shame when you grow, take care, and then in an instant the entire crop dies. To protect garlic plantings from yellowing and restore a healthy appearance, you first need to find out the reasons, only then begin to eliminate them...

Let's find out the reasons why garlic turns yellow

Let's figure out what the true reason for the yellowing of garlic is, because this is the only way to take action to eliminate it. Experienced agronomists identify several sources for the appearance of yellow feathers in garlic:

too early planting before winter. It is necessary to plant no earlier than October 15, so that the garlic does not have time to hatch;
With the onset of spring days, frosts are not excluded, so a slight frost could well have left the yellowness;
a lack of nutrients can cause garlic tops to turn yellow;
putrefactive diseases of garlic, accompanied by the development of rot and yellowing of the foliage;
The culprit may also be the onion fly, which causes great damage to the crop.

How can you accurately determine what caused the yellowing of garlic? If you are not sure that frost is the problem, the right decision would be to pull out one diseased plant from the garden and inspect it. Putrefactive diseases of garlic can be noticed immediately by the presence of brown spots, dark spots, even small mold, etc.

If an onion fly has infested and laid larvae, go to the garden bed and move your hand over the feathers; the insects will immediately begin to swirl. When no pests are found and no diseases are present, one can only think that the garlic lacks nutrients. Indeed, this happens; with the melting of snow, many nutrients are washed away, most go deep into the soil, where garlic cannot reach them.

In addition, at low temperatures, the plant’s ability to absorb the necessary nutrition from the soil is greatly slowed down, which is why the garlic turns yellow. Therefore, when it is cold spring, many summer residents observe a yellow picture in their garlic beds.

Garlic turns yellow, how to save it - folk methods and more

Depending on the identified factors, yellowing will be eliminated. Garlic turns yellow in the garden, what to do when frost is still present? In such cases, in early spring, as soon as green feathers appear, cover the bed with film, spunbond or other material, and be sure to water it with growth-stimulating preparations (Fitosporin, Epin-Extra, etc.). When the threat of frost passes, remove the protective cover, and you will see that the garlic is green and feels great. Now you can feed it.

If the feathers are quite grown and yellow in color, apply fertilizer. Fertilizing garlic in spring and summer is carried out in accordance with the schedule and condition of the plants. Now at this stage it is necessary to take urgent measures and do the following:

➤ it is necessary to feed the garlic with urea. Dry fertilizer can be distributed into the furrows between the rows, then covered with soil and watered well so that all the granules dissolve. But it’s better to prepare a urea solution (25-30 g/10 l) and pour over the garlic;

➤ after freezing, spray the garlic to remove yellowed leaves with Zircon (1 ml/10 l). The drug is a powerful antidepressant for plants, which will help them recover faster and begin to grow actively. You should spray every 5-7 days until the feathers are restored to green;

➤ How to water garlic so it doesn’t turn yellow? If the garlic is green and the appearance is quite satisfactory to the owners, in order to avoid yellowing, it is recommended to foliar spray with potassium sulfate (1 tsp/1l) in dry, windless weather in the evening. This fertilizer can be replaced with any complex fertilizer, the main thing is to dilute it according to the instructions on the package.

As a drastic measure, some summer residents and gardeners use salt against onion flies. Make a solution (200 g/10 l) and water the bed, then be sure to water it with regular clean water. Salt water is not to the taste of the onion fly and its larvae. One procedure will be enough for the season.

Folk remedies will help when garlic turns yellow from the onion fly in June, ash and tobacco dust will come to the rescue. Just sprinkle the row spaces with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust, and you will soon notice how the pest will disappear from the beds. Ammonia for garlic will also repel onion flies and will act as a nitrogen fertilizer, you just need to dilute it correctly (55-60ml/10l). In addition, watering onions with ammonia will also save onion planting.

If you find rotten spots on the bulbs, then you need to take care of healthy planting material and do not forget to disinfect the soil by spilling the garden bed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Immediately before planting, the cloves must be disinfected using the same manganese or saline solution, the drug Maxim. Now, dear readers, you know what to do when the garlic in the garden turns yellow.

Kira Stoletova

Garlic has long been a favorite addition to many dishes. This root vegetable is very popular among farmers due to its piquant taste, ease of cultivation and good keeping quality. However, in order to be able to grow crops planted before winter, proper processing of garlic is necessary.

Tuber selection

The selection of tubers for planting is of great importance. Only healthy specimens without visible mechanical damage or rot are selected. Garlic reproduces by whole tubers - single cloves or individual cloves taken from the outside.

Garlic with multi-colored peels: pink or blue veins is best stored. There should be no cracks on the bottom. In addition, it is important to take into account the characteristics of your region and select a zoned variety, otherwise you will not be able to harvest a good harvest for at least 2 years until the crop adapts to climatic conditions.

A long period of growing the same crop leads to the accumulation of pathological microorganisms in the heads, which provoke the development of various diseases, as well as pest larvae. Once every few years, 1/3 of the seed must be replaced with single-shank ones. This seed material is obtained from aerial bulbs.

Treatment before planting

Treating garlic before planting with a disinfectant solution is a mandatory step. Even completely healthy-looking teeth can be infected with bacteria or pest larvae. For processing use:

ash solution;
manganese.

The ash solution helps not only to disinfect the tubers, but also to enrich them with nitrogen, which is necessary for normal plant growth in the future. It is prepared at the rate of 400 g of wood ash per 2 liters of liquid. The solution is boiled for 30 minutes and cooled. Then the teeth are immersed in it for 2 hours.

The manganese solution is made slightly pink. Add 1 tsp to 10 liters of water. Garlic is immersed in the solution for 10 hours. An identical pre-sowing method is used for onions. For disinfection, you can use hydrogen peroxide.

Fitosporin treatment

If traces of a fungal disease were found on at least one tuber, it must be destroyed immediately, and be sure to treat all seed material with the antifungal drug Fitosporin. The advantages of this product lie in the possibility of using it at any stage of plant development.

After processing the garlic, before sowing, you still need to pour the solution into the beds. Preventive treatment is carried out every 14 days after the appearance of the first shoots. The solution should be diluted 1-2 hours before the procedure.

Copper sulfate treatment

One of the universal disinfectants is copper sulfate. Its 1% solution is most often used to disinfect garlic tubers. Processing of garlic cloves takes place in 2 stages:

keep the seed in the saline solution for 2 minutes;
soak for 30 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate.

Copper sulfate can be used to treat plants after the first shoots appear to prevent fungal diseases. Add 1 tsp to 10 liters of water. copper sulfate and 1 tbsp. l. grated laundry soap. Onions are processed in the same way.

Treatment for diseases

Despite the fact that garlic is considered a disease-resistant crop, it can sometimes be affected by certain pests and fungi. Most often, this happens due to:

improper care;
non-compliance with crop rotation rules.

Weakened plants can be exposed to not just one virus, but several at once. Before planting, the cloves must be disinfected in warm water with the addition of 5 drops of hydrogen peroxide for 15 minutes.

Downy mildew

In damp weather, fungal spores actively reproduce. Downy mildew makes the leaves brittle and lighter areas appear on them. For prevention and treatment use:

phytosporin;
Bordeaux mixture,
copper sulfate.

An excellent preventive measure is the pre-sowing treatment of the cloves by calcining them in the oven. Instead of calcination, hot water treatment at 50℃ can be used. The seed is immersed in the liquid for literally 15 minutes, then cooled in cold water and dried.

Rust and neck rot

These diseases very often affect onions and garlic. Rust appears as yellowish streaks on the leaves. Over time, they darken and cause the foliage of the plants to dry out. Neck rot affects tubers during storage. Vegetables become soft and acquire an unpleasant odor.

In order to prevent and treat diseases, only completely dry, healthy root vegetables should be stored. Medicines used:

phytosporin-M;
Bordeaux mixture;
copper oxychloride solution 1%.

Stem nematode

The pest sucks sap from plants. Damaged plants begin to turn yellow and eventually dry out completely. The root crop becomes soft, loose, and acquires an unpleasant odor. The bottom becomes rotten.

Prevention and treatment measures:

compliance with crop rotation;
disinfection of seed material before planting;
regular inter-row weeding;
treatment of holes with Thunderbolt.

Onion hoverfly

The larvae infect the heads of root crops and destroy them. Ultimately, the tuber rots and acquires an unpleasant odor. As a preventive measure and treatment, crop rotation rules should be followed. Garlic should not be planted in areas close to the site of last year's infestation. The row spacing should be mulched with peat and sand.

If egg clutches are detected, the plantings should be treated with ash and lime in a 1:1 ratio. Plantings need to be treated several times over 4 weeks. Spoiled plants should be immediately removed and burned to prevent the spread of pests.

Weed control

Herbicides

Very often weeds provoke the appearance of fungal diseases and pests. Sometimes it is very difficult to control weeds manually. A separate group of drugs called herbicides is intended for this purpose. They effectively destroy the roots of weeds without affecting the crop itself. The following preparations are often used to treat winter garlic: Lontrel Grand, Stomp, Targa Super.

Spraying rules

The effect of such drugs can be directed only at weeds or at all plants. It is worth reading the instructions carefully before using the products in order to carry out all the procedures correctly and not be left without a harvest. Spraying should be carried out when the plants already have 2 leaves or in the fall before sowing. These products effectively remove weeds and some pests. It is important to remember that after using herbicides, you will need to take care of timely application of fertilizing.

Lontrel Grand is used to remove annual and perennial weeds. If garlic is grown for green feathers, then its use is contraindicated. Treatment is carried out when weeds reach 15-20 cm in height. The optimal air temperature for procedures is 10 - 25℃.

Stomp is used to destroy annual weeds.

Treatment is carried out on moist soil. Planted garlic must be in the soil at a depth of at least 5 cm. The effect of the herbicide lasts for 3-4 months.

Targa Super is used for effective destruction of annual weeds. After dressing, you should not weed the beds for 1.5 months. When using the above remedies, garlic should not be eaten for a month.

Fungicides

Fungicides are divided into:

organic;
inorganic (pesticides).

Garlic is treated with pesticides to rid the plantings of infectious and other types of diseases and to destroy weeds and pests. These are chemicals that can cure plants in a short time. If possible, of course, it is better to try to do without them, since pesticides tend to accumulate in tubers. Among the most powerful drugs are: Galigan, Gesagard, Goal.

Among organic fungicidal agents, many farmers note the drug Maxim. It is designed to protect tubers from rot during storage and before planting. The use of a fungicidal agent in the pre-planting period allows you to create a barrier in the rhizome zone, which lasts throughout the season. In addition to its protective function, it stimulates active plant growth.

Final part

An important point in obtaining a good garlic harvest is timely treatment of the seed and soil from all kinds of bacteria. The disinfection procedure should not be neglected, because fungal spores and pest larvae can remain inside the cloves for a long time, while the root crop will retain a healthy appearance. In addition, additional processing of winter garlic helps keep the cloves intact in the soil throughout the winter.

Inter-row processing of garlic

Weeding garlic

Inter-row processing of garlic with hedgehogs.

For prevention purposes, it is important to follow the rules of crop rotation. You should not plant a crop for several years in a row in one place. Garlic responds well to the addition of additional fertilizers to the soil. The application of chicken droppings or manure is carried out under the previous crop and is an excellent prevention of the appearance of certain pests.