Proper care of climbing roses: planting, feeding, pruning. A few words about planting and caring for climbing roses

Ornamental shrubs are planted in spring and autumn. Autumn planting roses are preferable, but in this case it is difficult to predict the weather. In spring it is easier to get seedlings, so planting roses in spring is used more often.

Planting material

In spring, three types of seedlings are sold.

1. With bare roots. In this case, already in the store you can select a specimen with a strong root system. An open seedling dries out at home in a matter of days, so after purchasing it, it is placed in water, where it must lie for at least a night, and only after that they begin planting.
2. Seedlings in bags with roots packed in peat. After purchasing, cut the bag, release the roots twisted into a ring, straighten them with your hands and begin planting.
3. Saplings in pots. Before planting, the seedling is removed from the container and the soil is shaken off from the roots.

Flower seedlings begin to be sold early in the spring, in February-March, long before the roses begin to be planted in the ground. It is better to store them in the garden until planting. They are taken out to the garden early and buried in light partial shade in a high place, free from melt water. A seedling with unawakened buds in the spring can withstand temperatures down to minus 8 degrees.

Dig a trench and lay the seedlings at an angle of 45 degrees. The entire roots and half of the shoots are covered with earth, leaving only the tips of the branches outside. In spring, they can remain in this position for up to a month. They are taken out of the trench before planting, as needed, and immediately planted in planting holes.

Planting climbing, standard and bush roses in the spring is carried out in the same way. Before planting, the roots of a seedling are cut off (so that they can branch better) and the cuts are freshened. Sometimes the aerial part is covered with wax. It is better to remove it before planting, otherwise it will melt in the bright spring sun and damage the bark. To speed up establishment, seedlings are soaked in a growth stimulant before planting: sodium humate, epine, heteroauxin.

1. The pit for planting is prepared sufficiently big size, taking into account that the plant will grow greatly in diameter, and generously fill it with organic matter, since flowers love good nutrition.
2. The soil in the planting hole should be rich nutrients. The mechanical composition of the soil is very important. If the soil is clayey, add a little sand along with organic matter, and if it is sandy, add clay.
3. It is better to prepare the pit in advance - in the fall or two weeks before planting. It is necessary that the soil has time to settle, otherwise the seedling will be “dragged” deeper. Planting can be dry or wet. In the first case, the roots are lowered into the hole, covered and watered. In the second, the hole is first filled with water, then the roots are lowered into this “porridge” and covered with a dry mixture on top.
4. In both options, the roots must be spread along the bottom of the hole. After planting, the seedling is immediately watered. If after watering it is “pulled” down, then pull it out a little.
5. After planting, lightly mound with compost to retain moisture in the shoots until rooting. 10-15 days after planting, the compost must be rake away, otherwise the plant will grow on its own roots. The first buds are pinched off so that the plant, which is not yet rooted enough, does not waste energy on flowering.

As a rule, grafted plants are grown in culture. When planting, the graft should be buried no more than 2-3 cm into the ground. If the graft is at the top, then shoots will shoot up from the roots, which will later turn out to be ordinary rose hips.

Stories about how a rose has been “reborn” over the course of several years are associated precisely with the incorrect position of the grafting during planting. If the grafting is deepened, the bush will grow its own roots and will grow much worse and will begin to freeze.

Important! The graft on a rose is the place on the seedling from which shoots grow.

Rose care

Caring for roses in spring begins with removing the coverings. Opening time depends on the weather. The exact date It’s impossible to name; even within the boundaries of one region, the timing may differ by two weeks. If the plants were covered with film or covering material, they must be removed as soon as possible - otherwise the roses may get wet, which is much more dangerous than spring freezing.

The bushes are straightened and lifted from the soil. If there is white mold at the base of the bush, then there is no need to worry - it will disappear in a few weeks. Snow mold affects damaged shoots - that is, it is not the cause of death, but its consequences.

It is much worse if in the spring fluffy gray mold is found at the base of the bush (it is correct to call it “gray rot”), since it indicates damping off. Branches damaged by gray rot are cut back to healthy tissue, and the core of the bush is generously sprinkled.

Bushes that are slightly covered with mold can be treated with copper-containing preparations: oxychome, copper sulfate. Also, a propped up branch may have olive color. Over time, such a shoot will either come to life or freeze in growth and dry up.

It is better not to lift standard and climbing plants in the spring immediately after opening, because in the bright spring sun they can dry out in a matter of days - it is better to leave them lying on the ground for another week or two.

Immediately after opening, begin primary pruning. Dry, frozen shoots in winter are cut out with pruning shears. They can be distinguished from living ones by their black color. Having cut the shoot, you need to look at the cut - if the core turns out to be brown, it means that the shoot is frozen, and it is cut to the point where the light core appears.

The shoot may show frost holes - vertical breaks in the bark. If there are few of them, then the branch is left. But if the tissue around the crack has darkened, this indicates that an infection has already penetrated into the wound - then the branch is cut off.

There may be an infectious burn on the shoot - black spots in a crimson border, which in severe cases completely ring the shoot. An infectious burn does not appear immediately, but a week or two after opening the bush. Such shoots are also cut out.

Climbing roses - spring care

Caring for climbing roses that have overwintered poorly involves pruning: all damaged shoots are cut as short as possible using a lopper or pruner. They try to remove everything dead and diseased from the bush as much as possible. Sometimes after spring pruning there is not a single shoot left on the rose. In this case, the grafting site is cleared on the stump by raking away the soil - this is done so that the buds sleeping under the bark wake up faster.

If there are lagging areas of bark on the stump, you can do a kind of peeling - exfoliate them with your hands and pruning shears. After the grafting has been cleansed, conditions are created to accelerate the growth of rose buds. high humidity. To do this, cover the stump with a cut plastic bottle. New buds can wake up even in June, so the bottle is not removed until mid-summer and even until autumn - there is always a chance that the plant will wake up and come to life.

In spring, all plant debris containing pathogens is removed from the flower garden. Spring cleaning of the soil from last year's leaves and branches will save you from many troubles in the summer. It is better not to put collected leaves in compost; they are burned so as not to spread diseases.

In the spring, the soil in the flower garden should be loosened and even dug up with a pitchfork, since during the winter it has compacted and the air exchange in it has been disrupted. At this time, weeds are actively growing, and digging will get rid of them. The Queen of Flowers really does not like competition, so caring for her involves keeping the soil clean.

After the first loosening in the spring, it’s time to feed. To do this, use rotted manure, compost or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers. Organic matter or fertilizers are simply scattered over the surface of the soil and loosened again with a narrow rake. Over the winter, the position of the graft relative to the soil level may change and this needs to be corrected: add soil to the stem or, conversely, rake it away.

It is difficult to find a summer resident who would not dream of growing on his plot a unique aristocrat among ornamental plants - a climbing rose. It is also called climbing rose. Even if you are just a beginner gardener, growing this plant will not be difficult. With the help of climbing roses you can bring the most incredible landscape design ideas to life. If you have some unsightly places on your site that you would like to hide, then climbing or climbing roses will decorate them with their lush blooms. And how charming the summer gazebos, entwined with fragrant rose inflorescences, look! With proper care, some varieties of climbing roses will delight you with their bright blooms all summer long. In this article we will get acquainted with the most popular varieties of climbing roses among summer residents, methods of planting, care, etc.

Climbing roses are traditionally divided into 3 large types: large-flowered; small-flowered; semi-climbing. Each of these groups has distinctive characteristics and a variety of varieties. For example, small-flowered climbing roses bloom their inflorescences on last year's shoots, and large-flowered climbing roses bloom on new shoots that appear in the new year. Each of these groups has its own requirements for growing, planting and caring for roses. Therefore, it is almost impossible to cover absolutely all the subtleties and nuances of growing each variety of climbing roses in one article. Climbing rose varieties have quite a lot of differences in cultivation and care. We will consider the most general recommendations gardeners. Ramblers, or small-flowered climbing roses Small-flowered roses are also called Ramblers. The diameter of one flower is 2-4 cm. They do not have such a strong aroma. Collected in inflorescences and bloom for an average of 1 month. Flowers can be either double or semi-double. Almost all varieties of this group are characterized by good winter hardiness. Inflorescences bloom on last year's shoots. Gardeners are attracted to the varieties of roses in this group by their abundant and long flowering. Among the most popular varieties can be listed: "Bobby James." This variety takes pride of place in the list of the most popular varieties of small-flowered roses. Delicate cream flowers reach a diameter of up to 5 cm. The bush can grow up to 8 m in height and 3 m in width. As you can see, this variety needs quite a lot of space to grow, and the support must also be strong. When the roses bloom, a beautiful sight appears before you - behind the soft milky carpet of flowers, the lush green foliage is almost invisible. In addition, “Bobby James” has good frost-resistant qualities and disease resistance. "Super Excelsa" The bright crimson flowers of this variety cannot but please the eye. The rose grows up to 2 m in height and 2 m in width. The richness of the color may fade and turn pale in the sun, so take this point into account when planting. However, “Super Excelsa” is adapted to hot climates and has winter-hardy qualities. Flowers are collected in spectacular large inflorescences. "Rambling Rector". This variety has long been known to gardeners. It can be grown both as a bush if the rose is pruned, and as a climbing plant that can reach 5 meters in height. Semi-double small flowers are collected in inflorescences with an average of 40 pieces. The color of this rose is of high decorative value. Flowers can be light light green or fade to almost white. The undoubted advantage of this variety is its frost resistance. "Super Dorothy." If you are looking for a climbing rose with good frost resistance and long flowering, then this variety will be an excellent option. The rose blooms profusely and almost until frost. It can reach 2.5 m in height. Small flowers are collected in beautiful and lush inflorescences. The variety is also quite disease resistant. "Snow Goose." Snow-white flowers of this variety are collected in lush inflorescences of 20 pieces. The diameter of each flower is about 4-5 cm. The rose can also be used in landscape design And How ground cover rose. The combination of dark green shiny foliage with white flowers gives the appearance a spectacular appearance. There are practically no thorns. Climings, or large-flowered climbing roses Large-flowered roses are also called Climings. Just by the name of this group you can guess distinctive features these roses. Flowers can reach a diameter of as much as 11 cm. Of course, it is difficult to overestimate the decorative value of these climbing roses. They do not have such strong winter-hardy characteristics, and therefore they cannot be grown in all regions. Among the most spectacular varieties of this group are: Elf. This variety captivates with its delicate aroma with notes of fruit and the equally delicate color of the flowers - white-greenish. The bush grows up to 2.5 m in height, erect. It blooms long and profusely, but is not very resistant to heavy and prolonged rains. Indigoletta. If you want to add some originality and zest to your summer cottage, then you will really like this variety. Roses have a bright purple color and bloom profusely and for a long time. Gardeners are also attracted by the unobtrusive aroma and the ability to reach its maximum height of 3 m in a short period of time. Roses grow up to 10 cm in diameter and are collected in lush inflorescences. Polka. The soft orange and apricot color of this variety of roses looks especially romantic and sophisticated. It does not have very good winter-hardy characteristics, but it blooms profusely 2-3 times per season. Casino. The Casino variety is considered one of the most spectacular varieties of climbing roses. Reaches a height of 4 m. The flowers have a beautiful lemon color, which with their abundant blooms delights the eye 2 times a season. The foliage is dark, the thorns are prickly. An undoubted advantage is the variety's frost resistance and low susceptibility to disease. Don Juan. Rose connoisseurs will not be left indifferent by this variety, which has incredible advantages - resistance to powdery mildew, good frost resistance, excellent rain tolerance. Grows up to 3 m in height. Inflorescences bloom on new shoots. Santana. Bright red roses of this variety will certainly add beauty to your garden. The rose can grow up to 4 m. It tolerates both rain and is immune to powdery mildew. Frost-resistant variety. Cordes roses, or semi-climbing roses If you want to enjoy roses blooming until late autumn, then you will like Cordes roses. The powerful and strong stems of these climbing roses can reach 3 meters in height. Among the most popular varieties are: Flammentanz. The variety has good frost-resistant characteristics. It blooms in just one wave per season, in early summer. But the roses are very impressive - up to 8 cm in diameter and bright red in color. Grows up to 3 m in height. The leaves are dark green, the thorns are large and sharp. Ilse Crown Superior. This white beauty requires ample space to grow fully. It reaches 2 m in height and almost the same in width. Huge buds bloom up to 14 cm in diameter. Blooms profusely and for a long time. The variety is frost-resistant and well resistant to many diseases. Golden Gate. This yellow rose will amaze you with its rich aroma. Roses are collected in inflorescences. Can grow up to 3.5 m in height. Not very resistant to frost, rain and disease. Lagoon. Roses of this variety have an erect stem and reach 3 m in height. Flower color is dark pink. Has good disease resistance. Blooms in two waves per season. Planting a climbing rose Step 1. Choosing a place for a climbing rose Choose a well-lit place to plant the rose. The area where the rose will grow should be well ventilated, but without drafts. The best option would be the southern, southwestern side of the site. Consider in advance the type of support that will be needed for the climbing rose. This could be a wall, fence, gazebo, arch, other tree, etc. The area where the climbing rose will grow should not be swampy, with groundwater flowing close to the surface. They must be located at a depth of at least 150 cm. When choosing a place to plant climbing roses, keep in mind that they will need to be covered for the winter. Roses should not interfere with other plants. Step 2. Choose the time to plant a climbing rose There are two options for planting climbing roses. This is not to say that any of them is better. It’s just that certain varieties are better planted in the fall, while others in the spring. Planting in autumn takes place from September to the end of October. It is recommended to deepen the seedlings 2 cm more than when planting in the spring. This way, you will avoid the risk that the seedlings will not survive the winter. It is also recommended to hill seedlings just planted in the fall with sand to a height of 25 cm. The end of April - May is perfect time for planting climbing roses in spring. When planting, it is enough to deepen them 5 cm into the ground. Step 3. Select and prepare climbing rose seedlings If you still decide to get climbing beauty on your own site, then you need to approach the choice of seedlings as responsibly as possible. Among the most important advice and recommendations experienced gardeners can be distinguished: If you decide to grow a climbing rose, then buying seedlings today will not be difficult. There are a huge number of stores, including online stores, that sell the most different varieties. But it is better to give preference to specialized nurseries. Don't chase new products from catalogs. Under a beautiful picture, sellers do not always indicate the disadvantages of this variety. Perhaps it makes sense to buy a climbing rose of long-tested and well-known varieties; When purchasing a seedling, be sure to check with the seller for information about how the seedling was grown - on its own roots or it was grafted. The type of rootstock on which the graft was made is important. This is especially important if you are looking for a winter-hardy variety; When purchasing, it is better to opt for seedlings whose age is about 2-3 years. So, you will definitely get a rose with an already developed and powerful root system; If you have a choice between buying a seedling with an open or closed root system, then it is better to give preference to a rose with roots that you can see. This way, you can make sure that the roots are not overdried, rotten, or deformed. Unscrupulous sellers they can hide such defects behind beautiful boxes, bags, etc.; If you are not going to immediately plant the purchased seedling, then you can save it for some time. To do this, wrap the roots with a damp cloth, put on a bag and store in a dark and cool place; Roses that have been grown from cuttings are sold with a closed root system. You may be put off by the slightly weak appearance of such seedlings. But the thing is that they are still in the process of growing the root system. You can buy such seedlings if you decide to grow a climbing rose. Soak seedlings with exposed roots in water for 1 day; get rid of all leaves on the shoots; shorten the aerial part and roots to 30 cm; if there are buds below the grafting site, they need to be removed; disinfect the root system by dipping in 3% copper sulfate. Step 4. Preparing the soil for the climbing rose Roses love fertile and loose soil. If the soil is too heavy, add sand to make it more airy. The soil should be moistened, but in moderation. No matter how fertile the soil on your site is, it is better to prepare it additionally: Rotted manure is suitable for fertilizer; Now is the time to prepare the planting hole. Its size should be 50*50 cm. If you plant several plants at once, then keep a distance of at least 2 m between them; remember that other types of roses require a depth of 5 cm, but climbing roses need to be deepened a little more; the root system should be freely located in the hole, the roots should not bend, not fit, etc.; The grafting site should be underground at a depth of 10 cm. Step 5. Planting a climbing rose Once you have placed the roots in the hole, begin adding soil. Shake the seedling periodically to ensure that there are no air chambers between the roots; After you fill 2/3 of the hole, lightly compact the soil and water well. Leave for a while to completely absorb the moisture, and then fill the hole to the end; the seedling must be earthed to a height of at least 20 cm. With the arrival of cold weather, raise the level of earthing; Young rose seedlings need to be protected from the sun's bright rays. Hilling up with earth partially copes with this task. But you can additionally cover the plants with pine needles. 20-25 days after planting, the hilling can be gradually removed. This should be done on cloudy days. Caring for climbing roses Watering Climbing roses require watering. This is especially important during the bud opening period. If the buds begin to bloom and there is no precipitation for more than 2 weeks, then the plant must be watered. The same frequency of watering should be followed after pruning roses. One plant requires 1-2 buckets of water. 2 days after watering, loosening should be done to a depth of about 5 cm. To preserve moisture, you can also mulch the surface instead of loosening it. Remember that both excessive watering and lack of moisture are harmful to roses. The lack of liquid affects the appearance of the plant, the richness of its color, and also increases the percentage of salt content in the soil. And with an excess of moisture, the plant becomes vulnerable to fungal diseases. Top dressing Climbing roses spend a lot of energy during the growing season. They take feeding very well, and you will immediately notice the results of your efforts. The flowers will be brighter, larger, the shoots will be stronger, the root system will be more powerful, etc. Each gardener who grows climbing roses has his own system of feeding these ornamental plants. There are adherents of only organic fertilizing during the entire period of rose growth, and there are adherents of alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. Let's look at one of the most efficient systems feeding climbing roses: The first feeding is carried out in the first year of rose growth with organic fertilizers. Slurry or infusion of chicken droppings is suitable. The second feeding is carried out in the spring. After you have opened your roses after winter, carried out sanitary pruning, fertilize with ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. The 3rd feeding is carried out after 2 weeks in the same way. The plant will need the 4th feeding at the beginning of the growing season. As soon as the buds begin to form, apply any complex fertilizer suitable for your rose variety. The plant needs the 5th feeding before flowering begins. For this, organic fertilizer in the form of an infusion of chicken droppings and mullein will again be useful. The 6th fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizer is needed by the plant after the end of the first wave of flowering. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are completely avoided at the end of summer. The 7th and last fertilizing is carried out with superphosphate and potassium salt at the rate of 3 g per 1 sq.m. Trimming Climbing roses need pruning to form a beautiful crown and a healthy and well-groomed appearance in general. The nature of pruning climbing roses differs between those that bloom once and those that bloom repeatedly: Roses that bloom once bloom buds on last year's shoots. We will call them basic. Next year the roses will no longer bloom on these shoots, but will grow on replacement shoots. Therefore, after the end of the flowering period, the main shoots are cut out, leaving replacement shoots. Roses that bloom twice bloom their buds on the same main shoots for 3-4 years. After this period, the main shoots are cut out, leaving new ones for future flowering. Sometimes it can happen that climbing roses, blooming all summer, send out so many new replacement shoots. that the cutting of the main ones is carried out earlier. Climbing rose in winter In order for your climbing rose to successfully overwinter, start preparing for the cold in advance: already at the end of summer, reduce watering, loosening, eliminate any nitrogen fertilizers; The roses must be carefully removed from the support and tied into one or two strands. This way, it will be easier to lay them down; The process of laying a climbing rose can take several days. If you feel that the stems are about to break, then stop laying them further and fix them in this position. Try again after a few days; It is necessary to insulate a rose that is already pinned to the ground with the onset of cold weather. Propagation of climbing roses The seeds of some varieties of climbing roses grow in capsules. But few people decide to grow roses this way. Seed propagation can be carried out by some hybrids, some Floribunda roses. The most popular methods of propagating roses are propagation by cuttings, layering and grafting. Let us consider in more detail the cultivation of roses using rooting cuttings. With this method you will not get a large number of “daughter” plants. But you are guaranteed to get one good and strong fathom. To do this you need: we choose a good annual shoot, which we will root; in order for rooting to occur better, you need to make several cuts in the bark along the stem; we dig a hole, which we fertilize with organic fertilizers; We place the prepared shoot in this hole. It must be laid so that the stem is in a vertical position; fill it with a light earthen mixture, water it and wait for rooting. Climbing roses. Photo Climbing roses are actively used in landscape design. They look simply incredible near gazebos, arches, and columns. Such roses beautifully entwine walls, fences, balconies, and pyramids. Other trees can even be used for support. But the trees should not have a very active root system, so as not to interfere with the roots of the rose. The tree trunk must be strong and tall. We can recommend trees such as larch, mountain pine, pear, apple tree, etc. Thus, climbing roses occupy almost a leading position in vertical gardening. Climbing roses - flowering plants, which will always bring harmony, sophistication and style to your site. Among the numerous names of climbing roses and their pictures, you will certainly find those plants that will captivate you with their appearance. Don't be afraid to experiment. Caring for climbing roses is not that difficult. Rest assured that you will be rewarded with unsurpassed results.

Climbing roses, like bush roses, are one of the most popular forms in garden design. True, their purpose is completely different: if bush species are grown as tapeworms or bright accents, then climbing ones are most often used to decorate arbors, pergolas, arcade stands, or, like wild grapes, they are allowed to climb along the walls of buildings.

climbing roses (Rosa x hybrida hort) belong to the Rosaceae family. This type combines everything climbing varieties roses and was bred from 2 wild groups of roses: R. multiflora Thunb and R. wichuraiana Crep.

Flexible long shoots creep or rise in an arched manner, small leaves hard, small flowers reach 2.2–5 cm in diameter, petals are simple or double. The flowers are collected in large inflorescences. The aroma is faint or absent altogether. The color of the petals can be white, pink or red. It blooms once, but for a long time (about 30–35 days). The flowers are located along the entire length of the shoots. Varieties of this species are characterized by winter hardiness, and therefore a hard, dry shelter is suitable for them.

Most varieties of climbing roses bloom once, and occur at the beginning of summer, while only last year's vines bloom. Therefore, it is so important for these plants to survive the winter well in order to preserve last year’s lashes.

According to the description, climbing roses are very similar to bush roses. They have the same beautiful and richly colored leaves. The shoots are 1.5–5 m long, which makes it possible to plant trees on fairly tall objects.

How to plant a climbing rose correctly (with video)

Usually a climbing rose is planted on sunny side home to most during the day she received sunlight. Sunlight is important not only for the current flowering, but also for the formation of new strong shoots responsible for next year's flowering. However, it is advisable to plant them in places where they can be in the shade for a couple of hours a day, which will make the flowering period longer.

To each of the gardeners who love to plant beautiful flowers in your suburban area, you should know the following. Rose does not like stagnant water, so groundwater should lie at a depth of no more than one and a half meters. The hole for planting roses must be made in a special way and care must be taken to ensure that it measures 0.5 by 0.5 meters. It is important. Next, part of the excavated soil is lowered to the bottom, and river sand and a bucket of humus are added to the hole in a slide. And it would be very good if the owner of a summer cottage bothered to buy such fertilizer as superphosphate.

It must be placed in the hole in a proportion of 3-4 tablespoons. Based on the fact that the elongated vines of the plant will need to be properly laid out for the winter, there is no need to plant plants close to each other.

The stems of the seedlings must be trimmed to 30 centimeters, and then the rhizomes must be soaked in liquid clay. In addition, roses are very fond of such a simple fertilizer known to every novice gardener as cow manure. In a village where a shepherd takes the cows for a walk, there will be no problems with him. In addition, manure is sold by specialized companies that work in this area.

Climbing roses are planted so that the root collar is covered with a layer of earth of about 10 cm. If several rose bushes are planted nearby, then the distance between them is at least one meter. If a rose is planted for landscaping a fence or wall of a house, then the distance from the planting site to the support should be about 45 cm.

It is advisable to mulch the soil under roses with sawdust, grass or straw. During flowering, it is important to remove faded flowers in a timely manner so that the flowering period lasts longer.

This video shows how to plant a climbing rose:

Below we describe how to grow climbing roses in the country and how to care for these flowers.

How to grow climbing roses in the country and how to properly care for them in the garden

The climbing rose is drought-resistant and should be watered no more than once a week.

You need to feed the rose 3-4 times during the growing season either with mullein infusion or with complex fertilizer for roses.

Due to the large weight of the rose branches, it needs a fairly strong support, preferably wooden (it will prevent the plant from freezing in winter). In regions with cold winters, roses require shelter. With the onset of frost from minus 5 °C, the shoots are removed from the supports and laid on the ground. It is better to place it on dry leaves or spruce branches and cover with the same materials. A film is laid on top of this natural protection. In spring, the cover is removed and the rose is returned to its support.

When laying rose branches on a support, you should remember that the shoots need to be fixed not vertically, but horizontally, obliquely or in a spiral, then the plant’s forces will be directed not to the growth of shoots, but to the formation of flowers.

When caring for climbing roses in open ground, pruning is a necessary step. This is the key to a healthy appearance and abundant flowering. In the spring, it is necessary to prune frozen and weak branches, and after flowering, it is advisable to prune those shoots that have faded, which will be an excellent incentive for the formation of new replacement shoots and rejuvenation of the bush.

This plant is especially beautiful in in bloom. But growing climbing roses in the middle latitudes of Russia requires a lot of effort. Planting is carried out in early spring. To do this, the gardener must choose a specific place on his site. It should not be a very cold, but not hot area, located in direct sunlight. If we talk about what soil is optimal for such a rose, then it is best to bring loamy and fertile soil to the site.

Thus, in order to grow climbing roses as lush as possible, pleasing with their sophistication and beauty, it is necessary to carry out a number of manipulations:

• plant the seedling in the right way;
• feed the seedling in a timely manner;
• cover for winter cold;
• open in time in the spring - with the onset of heat;
• trim properly.

When growing climbing roses in open ground, it is necessary to carry out preventive control of pests and plant diseases.

Planting and caring for climbing roses is shown in this video:

How to propagate climbing roses from cuttings

Cuttings are a method known to both amateurs and professionals. The question rightly arises about the reason for such popularity. The answer lies in the number of plants obtained and the high probability of rooting. A shoot is selected 10 days after flowering, which should have about three buds ready to grow.

Before propagating climbing roses, the cuttings need to be prepared. This is done in advance. The width of the cuttings should vary from 0.5-0.7 cm, length - from 16 to 20 cm. The cut should be straight at the top and at an angle of 45 degrees at the bottom. A beveled cut under the bud at the bottom is necessary for roots to grow from the bud. On next stage The cuttings must be kept in the growth solution “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin” for 12 hours. Finally, the seedling must be planted in soil with a mixture of earth and sand.

It is also possible to propagate cuttings in water. Afterwards, you should cover the future roses with a jar or, in the case of using water, cover them with film. This is done to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant.

When propagating climbing roses, it is important to observe following conditions: constant temperature air from 22 to 24 degrees; sufficient lighting; do not remove the film or jar until rooting.

Roses are grafted onto rosehips in order to obtain earth-resistant seedlings more quickly and cheaper. And roses with their own roots can achieve such a result only after three years. This is less profitable for producers due to the rise in price of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. Own root roses obtained by cutting a cutting that has three buds. And in order to graft a rose hip, only one bud is used. This is more profitable for the manufacturer.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to choose climbing roses suitable for the climatic conditions of Russia.

How to choose climbing roses: winter hardiness of plants

It is worth considering that in the conditions of central Russia, the length of the shoots on the bushes is more modest, and the flowering is not so long and abundant. The main disadvantage of climbing roses in this zone is the need to cover them for the winter, for which every year, in late autumn, the vines have to be removed from the supports, bent in the ground and covered.

Another secret when breeding climbing roses is the correct selection of varieties. Of the numerous varieties offered in companies and shopping centers, not all will grow well and bloom profusely on your site. Sometimes you have to try many varieties to choose the most suitable one for a given place. However, for true flower lovers, these difficulties are not an obstacle. Often in our relatively harsh zone you can see garden compositions with abundantly blooming roses.

The culture of climbing roses in Europe dates back about 200 years. During this time, dozens of varieties and forms of climbing roses have been bred, however, European varieties have not become widespread in our country, like the culture of climbing roses itself, due to the insufficient winter hardiness of European varieties in Russian conditions.

Until today, it has not been possible to select a single reliable, wintering variety, even for the south of the Black Earth Region, where short-term winter frosts down to –28…–30 °C are not uncommon.

In frosty winter conditions, the entire above-ground part of bushes of European varieties freezes to the level of snow, while only powerful, developed bushes, whose shoots of previous years of development have overwintered well, can give an excellent decorative effect. None of these varieties have natural leaf fall in our conditions. The leaves remain green until frost, and then freeze. Unripe annual shoots die off during winter frosts, becoming a “gateway” for the penetration of fungal and viral infections and usually lead to the death of the entire bush.

Such roses can winter in Russia only under cover, for which the shoots must be annually removed from the supports, tied, cleared of foliage, non-woody shoots cut out and covered with spruce branches, burlap, and spunbond. Since the covering procedure is complex and time-consuming, covering varieties of roses have no prospects in mass gardening.

The search for winter-hardy species of climbing roses and the breeding of uncovered roses for Russian conditions is one of the urgent and interesting tasks.

Work on breeding winter-hardy, uncovered roses for Russian gardens is currently being carried out by Ph.D. agricultural sciences, head department scientific research And innovative developments Rossoshansky zonal experimental station of horticulture in Voronezh. A. I. Sychev.

Breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses (with photos)

Taking into account that the genetic material for breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses must be sought among little-studied species of roses or hybrids with frost-resistant species as one of the parents.

Roses caught the researcher's attention Cordes is a cultigenic new group of roses, created in the middle of the last century by the German rose breeder W. Cordes.

basis new group roses became a spontaneous hybrid of the climbing rose Vihurayana and the rugosa rose (R. rugosa).

Hybrid, called "Max Graf" ("Max Graf") belongs to the climbers, blooms profusely with simple flowers, but does not bear fruit due to the genetic distance of the parents. On the bushes of this variety, growing in the Kordes nursery, a bud mutation occurred, as a result of which the number of chromosomes doubled and two fruits were born on the matted branch. One of the seedlings grown from the seeds of these fruits turned out to be tetraploid and became the founder of a new group of roses. Thanks to the genes of rugose rose, which can withstand frosts down to -40 °C or more without shelter, Cordes roses are much more winter-hardy than older varieties of climbing roses. However, the genes of the Vihurayana rose do not allow Cordes roses to winter in Russia without shelter.

This statement also applies to the most winter-hardy of the Cordes climbing roses - the Flammentanz variety. ("Flammentanz") - the best red climbing rose for the Russian climate, grown in a cover crop. Bright red semi-double flowers of this variety are collected in small inflorescences. The first flowering of the variety at the beginning of summer is exceptionally abundant, and during the second wave of flowering, 40–50 flowers are formed at the ends of the shoots.

Rose "Flammentanz" can be used as a genetic basis for breeding winter-hardy, uncovered roses. To do this, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of its offspring by 6–7°C, expand the color palette and increase the broadness.

Due to their tetraploidy, Cordes roses can easily be crossed with modern varieties of hybrid tea, floribunda and climbing varieties. Hybrids with “Flammentanz” have large double, semi-double and single flowers, collected in small inflorescences of predominantly red, crimson and pink colors. They usually bloom once, but some hybrids have the ability to bloom repeatedly. In terms of winter hardiness, they are significantly superior to hybrid tea roses, but slightly inferior to Flammentanz. One of best hybrids called "Nostalgia". This is a vigorous climbing rose with shoots up to 4–5 m long with large dark red double flowers.

Attempts to cross "Flammentanz" with winter-hardy plants did not bring success. park roses, for example, a variety of winter-hardy prickly rose (R. pimpinellifolia) - “Frühlingsgold”. Most of the hybrids turned out to be of the bush type, with light flowers with a “weak”, thin texture of the petals and low winter hardiness. Pollination of "Flammentanz" with rose hip pollen

Rose Vihurayana (« R. wichuraiana"), originally from Korea, southern Japan, and China, it often grows as a creeping plant. The climbing shoots of this species are covered with shiny evergreen small foliage, which it passes on to its varieties. The winter hardiness of this species and the varieties bred on its basis is even lower than that of the multifloral rose.

The most common variety is Excelsa. (« Excelsa") is damaged by frost at –18… – 20 °C. However, despite the need for annual shelter, this rose is widely grown in central Russia as one of the most stable, unpretentious and abundantly flowering climbing varieties.

Climbing roses from the group of climbers are most often climbing clones of common low-winter-hardy roses hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, remontant roses and in terms of winter hardiness differ little from them. The shoots of these roses freeze at –15…–20 °C.

IN last years new ones were brought into our country winter-hardy roses Canadian selection. One of the climbing roses, "William Baffin" ( "William Buffin"), after three years of testing in Rossoshi, showed higher winter hardiness than Flamentanz.

The search for winter-hardy species among wild ramblers was crowned with the discovery of the Maksimovich rose, which grows in northern China, Korea, and is quite common in southern Primorye ( R. maximowicziana).

Rose Maksimovich is a shrub with climbing or creeping shoots 5–6 m long. The leaves are leathery, shiny, decorative, consist of 7–9 pairs of leaflets, leaflets are 2–4 cm long, reminiscent of the evergreen leaves of the Vihurayana rose. In nature, roses form thickets on rocky and sandy soils on coastal slopes and in floodplains no further than 20–40 km from the sea coast. It is very important that the development of the Maksimovich rose completely fits into the growing season of the middle zone, natural leaf fall occurs in the fall, and the fruits fully ripen in September. The rose is completely winter-hardy in Rossosh, Moscow (GBS) and in the south of Western Siberia.

The flowers of the Maksimovich rose are 2.5–5 cm in diameter, collected in corymbose-paniculate inflorescences of 5–7 pieces, the petals are creamy yellow. The shoots of Maksimovich roses overwinter in Voronezh and the Moscow region directly on supports, without shelter, in the spring they are not damaged, and in the summer the bushes bloom profusely. In Moscow, the Maksimovich rose at 10 years old reaches a height of 2.6 m, the diameter of the bush is up to 3 m.

These photos show varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses:

Rose Maksimovich sets fruit well when pollinated by pollen of climbing diploid varieties of small-flowered roses.

Among hundreds of seedlings from pollination of the varieties “Thousandshon”, “Ave Maria” (« Ave Maria") and nameless local roses, the breeder selected specimens with decorative flowers and, more importantly, the timely completion of the growing season.

The most interesting are the seedlings from the family Rosa Maksimovicha × Thousandshon.

They are distinguished by their strong climbing growth (up to 5 m in length), have double or semi-double flowers of various structures, petal shapes, colors and flowering periods. The size of the flowers is not large, which corresponds to the size of the flowers of the group of ramblers, but the flowers are collected in racemes from 3–5 to 20–30 pieces. There are seedlings with fragrant flowers.

Look at the photos of climbing rose varieties described above:

How climbing roses of different groups bloom

According to the world classification, two groups are distinguished among climbing roses:

Ramblers (Ramblers) And climbers (Large flowered climbers).

The first group includes wild species from the section Synstylae and closely related species garden forms. As a rule, these are powerful, with shoots up to 3–6 m high, once flowering species in early summer, with small simple flowers in multi-flowered inflorescences. The second group includes complex hybrids, products of long-term selection with large flowers and repeated (remontant) flowering.

Roses from the ramblers group are the most winter-hardy and promising for introduction to Russia. An analysis of the pedigree of modern European climbing roses - ramblers - showed that two wild species from China and Japan were used as the initial genetic material.

See climbing roses bloom different groups in these photos:

The first is multifloral or polyanthus rose (R. multiflora). IN mild winters it winters well in Russia without shelter, but in frosts down to –30 °C the shoots freeze to the level of snow. In old gardening manuals, varieties of this rose are called among the most winter-hardy climbing roses for Russia. In order to obtain beautifully flowering varieties, multifloral roses were crossed with non-winter-hardy remontant, hybrid tea, and tea roses, so the varieties have lower winter hardiness.

In our country, old varieties of multifloral roses are common, for example “Tauzenshon” (« Tausendschon"). Varieties of rose multiflorum retain the large stipules characteristic of the species, fringed along the edges.

Varieties of climbing roses: photos, names and descriptions

Among the most common varieties of climbing roses are the following:

"Aglaya" (Aglaia) has large flowers, collected in large inflorescences, double petals, straw-yellowish in color. The spreading bush blooms profusely.

"Alberic Barbier" (Alberic Barbier) has small buds yellow color. The name for this variety of climbing roses was given by French breeders who developed this form. The flowers are large, collected in small inflorescences, double petals, creamy yellow at the edges and yellow in the center. The aroma is fragrant. Shiny leaves of beautiful shape, dark color. The climbing bush blooms profusely starting in June.

"American Pillar" (American Pillar) are distinguished by large open flowers, reaching a diameter of 7 cm, collected in large inflorescences and located on strong shoots. The petals are single, carmine pink, the eye is white, the stamens are golden. Leathery leaves large size, brilliant. When describing this variety of climbing roses, it is especially worth noting their height and power - strong bushes reach a height of 6 m and bloom profusely from May to June.

"Blaze" (Blaze) has large cup-shaped flowers collected in large inflorescences. Petals are semi-double, bright red. The aroma is faint. Leaves are leathery. A strong bush with a spreading crown blooms profusely and repeatedly. The variety is propagated by cutting, grafting and layering.

"Wartburg" (Wartburg) has small flowers collected in large inflorescences, double petals, raspberry-pink in color. The aroma is fragrant. A vigorous bush with smooth shoots, devoid of thorns, blooms profusely.

"Hiawatha" (Hiawatha) is distinguished by small flowers, reaching a diameter of 3.5 cm, which are collected in inflorescences of 10–30 pieces. The petals are single, carmine-red in color, white in the center. The leathery leaves are shiny. The strong bush reaches a height of 3 m, flowering occurs later than other varieties of this species.

"Dorothy Perkins" (Dorothy Perkins) has small flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in large inflorescences. The petals are densely double, bright pink with a salmon tint. Large leaves are shiny, dark green in color. A strong climbing bush blooms profusely in June.

"Crimson Rambler" (Crimson Rambler) has medium-sized flowers collected in large pyramidal racemes. The petals are bright crimson-red, when they fade, they acquire a bluish tint. Leathery large leaves of light green color. The bush is strong and climbing.

"Climbing Minnehaha" (Minnehaha) is distinguished by small flowers collected in inflorescences. The petals are double and pink. The aroma is weak. The vigorous bush reaches a height of 3.5–4 m, blooms once in late spring - early summer, and is propagated by cuttings and layering.

"Feilchenblau" (Veilchenblau) has small cup-shaped flowers. Petals are semi-double, bright purple. The aroma is fragrant.

Here are photos of varieties of climbing roses, the descriptions of which are given above:

Climbing roses in garden design and photos of plants at flowering time

Vertical gardening is important in garden design. And it's not just about decorative effect, but also the ability to divide the site into zones, hide from curious neighbors or disguise an unsightly building.

There are many plants that are used in vertical gardening, and roses play not the least role among them.

Climbing roses can be used very widely in garden design. For example, decorate a fence, the wall of a building or a gazebo. You can braid an arch, a pergola over a gate, bench or path, or decorate a retaining wall. It can be planted near special supports installed in flower beds, front gardens, and on lawns.

Moreover, for each composition it is necessary to select varieties that are most suitable for each other in texture, fullness and color of flowers and other decorative characteristics.

Climbing roses are first-class plants for vertical gardening, for decorating walls, decorating public places and recreation areas. In China and Japan, these plants have been used in landscaping for many centuries.

See what climbing roses look like in the garden in these photos:

To successfully breed these plants, you need to know about one of their features: the more evenly the vine is illuminated, the more flower buds along the entire length of the shoot. And although modern varieties bloom quite evenly, we must not forget about this nuance. How to care for climbing roses in the garden to achieve optimal lighting? This can be done by placing the lashes horizontally or at least with a slight slope.

If you know about this property, then thanks to proper garter and the formation of lashes, you can increase the number of flowers, which will significantly affect the overall decorative effect.

Varieties with flexible shoots, such as Super Excelsa, Super Dorothy, should be used to decorate narrow arches and pergolas, pillars or obelisks.

When forming, the whip can be tied to the arch with a snake or simply wrapped in a spiral around a pillar or obelisk. This simple technique will allow the rose to bloom more abundantly.

Large-flowered roses of the Flamentanz type, in which the shoots are more powerful, it is preferable to decorate with wide decorative trellises: it is convenient to fan out the lashes on them.

If the variety has good shoot-forming ability, then uniform flowering can be achieved by pruning. To do this, the shoots are cut at different heights, which stimulates their growth.

Except usual options There are also some not quite standard uses for climbing roses. You can use a rose to decorate an old fruit tree. In this case, it is best to plant it on the south side, finding a place between the tree roots and retreating 50 cm from the trunk. You can also dig in a root stop (for example, a piece of old linoleum or plastic) and a piece of wide pipe or plastic bottle without a bottom for spot watering and feeding roses. Next, the lashes need to be tied to the trunk in the intended direction.

Another interesting technique is to use a climbing rose as ground cover plant. This will look especially advantageous on a slope. The shoots can simply be laid on the ground, or even better, slightly raised and secured on low arches. A river of flowers flowing down the slope will amaze the imagination of all your guests.

Varieties of climbing roses that grow well in width and have hard shoots, for example Rozarium Uetersen, suitable for solitary planting on the lawn. They can be given the required forum (shape) by trimming, as is the case with scrubs.

Some vigorous varieties of English roses can also be shaped into short plants. To care for climbing roses correctly, as experienced gardeners advise, you need to maintain the length of the shoots, trim them moderately and form the vines on a support. Wide screens or obelisks are suitable for support.

The following varieties are good for this role:

Crown Princess Margaretha

Gertrude Jekyll

A Shropshire Lad

The Pilgrim and others

As for companions for climbing roses, the best of them are clematis. When selecting clematis, you need to achieve harmonious combinations using contrast in shape or color. You also need to consider the flowering time of both species; it is clear that they must bloom at the same time. Finally, the growth habit of the chosen varieties of both rose and clematis must be taken into account. Clematis usually develop faster, so it is preferable to plant the rose first, give it at least a year to take root and grow, and only then plant the clematis next to it.

A certain distance must be maintained between the climbing rose and the clematis, at least 60 cm. Moreover, if the rose needs to be directed to a support, then it is enough to help the clematis only at the very beginning. And then this steeplejack will do just fine on his own, using the rose as a support.

As you know, in the middle zone both roses and clematis need to be covered for the winter. In this regard, it is often argued which clematis are preferable - the second or third pruning group (read more about this in the third chapter), which of them are more convenient to cover with roses. Many people think that the varieties of the third group are much better suited: for the winter, the lashes can simply be cut at a height of 20 cm, there is no need to untangle or remove anything from the rose. In reality, varieties from both groups may be suitable. The fact is that many clematis of the third group are very powerful, tall, with a large number of shoots, and not every climbing rose can withstand such a neighborhood. Sometimes it is worth choosing elegant and modest clematis of the second group. And covering them is not so difficult: it is enough to trim the vines at the level of a meter, trim the foliage and cover the clematis along with the rose.

The underside of a climbing rose may become bare with age. To decorate the lower part, you can plant roses of another group around, such as ground cover or floribunda, or companion plants that match the color.

In the climate of the middle zone, growing a climbing rose is not so easy. In order for it to appear in all its glory, it needs to be provided with favorable wintering conditions. When planning a flower garden, you need to immediately foresee where you will place these, in general, rather large roses for the winter. To avoid disappointment, when choosing a climbing rose variety, pay attention to its winter hardiness and resistance to disease and precipitation. Read online reviews about it left by rose growers in your climate zone. Study the agrotechnical requirements, the most important of which is proper pruning. In addition, powerful climbing roses for lush flowering timely and balanced feeding is necessary. Don’t forget to tie the lashes in time. It is undesirable to use rigid wire for these purposes; I use plastic clamps or string made of natural material. At the same time, you should not tie the lashes to the support too tightly.

It is often recommended to plant climbing roses with a slight slope in the direction where you plan to lay the vines in the fall. It doesn't really matter; I didn’t notice a difference in the bending between the roses that I planted according to science and those planted straight. If the variety has flexible shoots, it is easy to plant for any planting. And to bend roses with stiff shoots to the ground, you always need to make an effort.

When planting a rose near a fence or wall of a house, make sure that there is good air circulation between the plant and the wall. Also, remember that many materials get very hot on hot days, which will have a negative effect on your flowers. Therefore, roses must be mounted on a decorative lattice, which should be at least 10 cm away from the wall. And lastly. If you decide to decorate the wall of your house with a climbing rose, pay attention to where the water flows from the roof: it should not pour on the rose.

Ecology of life. Estate: Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, gazebos, fences.

Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, gazebos, and fences.

Despite the huge lashes, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve true aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.

Planting time: spring or autumn?

All types of “queen of flowers” ​​are considered quite capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, the care of which must be thought out to the smallest detail. And you need to start with the right choice landing time. It is best to time this event on warm days in May.

In this case, you will be sure that the plants will have time to get stronger before winter and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the trees begin to bud, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12°. If you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it should be planted only after the buds have bloomed on the trees.

You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of the plant dying if it does not have time to take root properly before the onset of frost.

Landing place

The area for planting climbing roses should be well lit in the first half of the day. This is important, since it is the morning warm sun will dry the dew on the leaves and will not give a chance to fungal diseases. A completely open area is not so preferable, since midday Sun rays can cause “burning” of delicate petals and even drying out of the entire plant.

Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold northern and northeastern winds, and is not located on the corner of a building where there are constant drafts - a delicate climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be inhibited.

Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?

Climbing rose develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water should pass freely deep into the ground and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.

Therefore, if the groundwater in your area is too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it another way: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there.

This precaution will not allow groundwater“get” to the root zone and damage them; in addition, the taproots will not go deep and their bulk as they grow will be located not vertically, but horizontally. After this, a sufficient layer of fertile soil is poured onto the stone or concrete, where the plant is subsequently planted.

Climbing roses grow best on fertile loams - they are sufficiently water- and breathable to ensure good nutrition of the root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil are not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if this is the kind of soil on your site, you shouldn’t despair.

The situation can be improved by adding clay soils sand, and sandy ones diluted with clay. This will adjust the soil's permeability to air and water, but will not add soil fertility. To improve this indicator, humus or humus should be added to the soil.

Distance between climbing roses

When planting, it is necessary to provide a distance between roses of 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. If planting is carried out near a gazebo or the wall of a house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.

You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to shade each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as with a conventional planting scheme. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Before you begin planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Cuts for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent the resulting wounds from rotting. Next, it is advisable to dip the roots into a mash mixture consisting of clay with an admixture of fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are pre-dissolved in 0.5 liters of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 liters of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.

At spring planting seedlings of any variety of climbing rose are pruned. In this case, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak shoots. If planting is done in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after removal from the bushes winter shelter.

Planting and caring for young seedlings

To begin with, dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure the free placement of the roots, and the root collar must be buried at least 10 cm. Such a measure will protect it from winter cold, since at such a depth with normal shelter (for example, under spruce branches), the temperature does not drop below -2 degrees. Also, deepening the root collar of self-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation large quantity additional roots.

A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are spread evenly and covered, if possible, leaving no voids. After filling the hole with earth, it is compacted with feet. For better survival, self-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin.

During the growing season, the climbing rose needs regular watering, fertilizing, removing weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.
After removing the winter shelter with the onset of spring warmth, pruning is carried out, last year's plant debris is removed, the roses are sprayed with pesticides, the soil around the plant is loosened, and the necessary fertilizers are applied.

Proper pruning of a climbing rose

Climbing roses need proper pruning, the purpose of which is to form, obtain long and abundant flowering, and improve the health of the crown. Pruning also helps to ensure that the plant is completely covered with new growth.

Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely bloomed, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not removed. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots appear on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that new, annual shoots replace old shoots. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will concentrate next summer.

Garter of climbing roses

When forming a climbing rose, you should not strive for all the main branches to grow upward. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are “relocated” to the upper part of the plant, and this will not add to its aesthetics.

Therefore, to avoid such trouble, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then they will soon have vertical side shoots, growing upward. This principle of forming a climbing rose will perfectly camouflage a trellis or wall, and will also provide luxurious and long-lasting flowering.

This might interest you:

Caring for a climbing rose in winter

In winter, any roses, including climbing ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, remove the lashes of roses from the support, remove rotten, diseased shoots, as well as all leaves.

After this, the branches are wrapped with twine and secured to the ground with wooden or metal pins. The top of the lashes is covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. In much the same way, you can cover a climbing rose directly on a support, for example, if it entwines an arch. In this case, the support is first tied with burlap, roofing felt or film, and then covered with spruce branches. published

Planting and caring for climbing roses in open ground should be carried out according to certain rules. Even the ugliest corner of the garden can be improved or made more romantic thanks to these flowers.

The climbing type of rose is considered a light-loving plant. If there is a lack of sunlight, the development and growth of fresh stems slows down. As a result, flowering begins very late. But on the other hand, direct sunlight at noon can also be harmful: it leaves burns. The rose should be planted so that during the hottest hours of the day it is on the semi-shade side. The best option would be if the sun's rays heat the bush only in the first half of the day. In the morning, dew from the leaves quickly evaporates, so that fungal and viral diseases are not harmful to the plant.

Climbing roses are considered very finicky. They do not survive drafts well, so places near the corners of buildings are not at all suitable as a landing site. It is not recommended to plant shrubs in areas where roses have already grown. Wetlands are also not suitable. It is best to make beds with slopes so that water does not stagnate in the soil. The root system can be up to 2 m in length, so if the soil moisture level is constantly above normal, then it is best to choose a planting site on a hill.

Climbing roses can be planted near the walls of a house or other buildings. In this case, they are used as decoration. At the same time, you need to make sure that the roots do not become thin. To do this, you need to leave a distance of at least 0.6 m between the wall and the bush. In any case, planting is carried out near any supports. For example, it could be a fence, mesh, arch, walls, cones and pillars specially installed for roses, etc.

As for planting time, in places where climatic conditions are moderate, bushes are best planted in open ground at the end of September or beginning of October. The first roots will appear within the first 2 weeks, so by the time the cold snap begins, the root system will already be quite strong. If you monitor roses in the spring, you will notice active growth of both the root system and the above-ground part, so that the bush will become more lush and strong.

But in the northern regions it is recommended to plant plants in the spring, since if you plant them in the fall, they simply will not have time to adapt to new conditions, so they will not be able to survive the winter. Those plants that are planted in the spring are a little behind in development: about a couple of weeks, so they need a lot of attention. Before planting in the ground, the seedlings need to be pruned to 3 buds.

Disembarkation rules

Beautiful climbing roses can only be obtained if you choose the right seedlings. They must be healthy. Their ability to survive and quality are visible in appearance, so you definitely need to check the trunk. It is whitish-green in color, but in no case brown or gray. Newly purchased seedlings cannot be immediately planted in open ground. Here are the basic rules of preparation:

1. 1 The plant needs to be soaked in plain water for 24 hours.
2. 2 Cut healthy roots to 15 cm. If there are weak or fragmented roots, it is better to cut them off immediately. As a result, only a small bunch remains.
3. 3 Strong branches need to be cut to 15 cm, and if there are weak ones, simply remove them.
4. 4 Treat the cut areas with crushed charcoal.
5. 5 Treat the roots with Kornevin or Heteroauxin.

Thanks to such processing and preparation, the roots will begin to grow faster and the bushes will develop. In addition, during flowering there will be more buds.

Climbing roses should be planted in loamy, fertile soil. It is very important that it is well drained. Only clay and sand are not at all suitable for growing roses. The soil will have an optimal chemical composition if you add a little lime to it. The fertility of the soil increases if, while digging it, you add substances such as humus, humus, fertilizers with phosphorus, and special soil bacteria. You need to prepare your garden plot in advance. At the end of summer, dig it up several times, and then loosen it additionally in the spring.

You definitely need to know how to plant a branched rose. The roots of a young plant should not lack space, so the holes should be free. They should be approximately 0.6 m deep. Approximately 1 m should be left between plants so that the roots develop freely and the bushes do not interfere with each other.

When planting a rose in a hole in the garden, the following rules must be observed:

1. 1 First add 5 kg of nutrient mixtures to each pit. It is allowed to use peat compost.
2. 2 The void between the roots needs to be filled.
3. 3 The root collar must be covered to a depth of approximately 11 cm. By the way, this is one of the methods for insulating the plant from frost.
4. 4 The planted bush needs to be watered with a bucket of water, and the liquid should be warm.
5. 5 If there is any space left, it should be sprinkled and compacted.

You definitely need to remember about the support that supports the flower when it curls. At the same time, the support itself should not interfere with the development of the root system. As a portable option, trellises, tripods and trellises are perfect. By the way, you can build them yourself using wooden blocks 3 m high. The arches also look beautiful. You will need to plant a bush on both sides. By the end of 2 years, the support will be completely entwined with a plant with beautiful inflorescences.

Some gardeners prefer to cover climbing roses when the cuttings are first placed in the ground. Typically, plastic water containers are used for this. You need to cut out the bottom of them and just bury them in the ground. You are allowed to sprinkle a little sand on top. Growing roses using this method is considered very popular. This is a good option for insulation before wintering. In addition, it is a kind of greenhouse. The plant should be opened only in the spring, when it is clear that the bush has begun to grow and develop.

Necessary care

How to care for a climbing rose is an important question. Be sure to find out all the points in advance. This applies to the frequency of watering, the fertilizers used and the time of fertilization. You also need to know about pruning bushes and insulating them before wintering. Another important nuance is protection from diseases and pests.

If a climbing rose is chosen for the garden, care involves following the following rules:

1. 1 Watering and fertilizing. These shrubs do not like excess water. But they can easily tolerate drought. It is recommended to water the plants once a week, using a small volume of liquid. She shouldn't be cold. If you over-water the bush, this will lead to the development of fungal and viral diseases, and the appearance of the bush will be poor. Proper cultivation also involves the application of fertilizers. Commonly used are manure and other organic fertilizers, which need to be alternated with mineral compounds. For young shrubs, the fertilizers that were applied to the hole during planting will be sufficient, so at first there is no need to be overzealous with fertilizing. But the next year after planting it is necessary to add humus, humus, black soil and phosphorus fertilizers.
2. 2 Trimming. Caring for climbing roses necessarily involves timely pruning shoots. All types of climbing roses can be divided into 2 types, for which pruning is carried out differently. If shrubs bloom in June and July, then the shoots need to be shortened after planting. There should be shoots of 30 cm each. Growing involves cutting off new stems, if necessary, during their active growth. This is required to form a beautiful bush. In the second case, bushes with a small number of basal shoots, which appear only on fairly old branches, must be pruned in the first year, shortening them to 30 cm. The next year after planting, all old shoots must be cut off completely.
3. 3 Garter. Roses require careful care. They definitely need a garter. After cutting off the old branches, new ones will begin to appear. They need to be guided to give the bush a beautiful look. To have more buds in the future, individual branches need to be tied up. In this case, you need to make sure that they are not directed upwards, as this will cause the buds to appear only at the tops.

Growing involves gartering, in which the following rules must be followed:

1. 1 The shoots are allowed to be arranged in the shape of a fan, and the side branches are not tied up. They will not interfere, as they grow freely to the sides and upwards.
2. 2 The main shoots must be placed horizontally, tied to a support. After a while, many side branches will appear on them, which will grow upward. This produces many beautiful flowers.
3. 3 In order for the branches to entwine pillars and arches, it is recommended to twist them in a spiral around the support.

Thanks to following these rules, the bush will entwine the support, which will look very beautiful.

Additional factors

• Insulation

Growing climbing roses requires mandatory insulation before wintering. Before covering the bushes, they need to be properly prepared. To do this, you need to remove dry leaves, cut off old branches and weak shoots. As a result, only 10-12 strong shoots remain. All actions should be carried out only in dry weather.

There are different methods for covering roses. Their choice depends on the region where roses grow. If the climate is milder, then the branches do not need to be removed from the support. They can be covered with spruce branches and then wrapped with additional film.

If the winter in the region is too cold, then the branches should be removed from the support. First you need to collect them in a large bunch and tie them. When the temperature drops to 5°C, this bundle must be carefully tilted towards the ground and secured with stakes and wire. The base of the bush should be covered with a mixture of soil and peat, and the shoots should be covered with spruce branches. Cover everything on top with agrofibre or film.

In spring, it is important to remove the entire structure in time. Otherwise without fresh air and with high humidity, the roses will simply suffocate and rot. After opening the bush, the shoots need to be tied back to the support. The first fertilizing should be introduced only after young leaves appear.

• Preventing diseases.

If you care for the bushes incorrectly, it can develop powdery mildew, black spot or bacterial cancer. These are the most common diseases of climbing roses. It is imperative to follow all the rules for caring for the plant. In addition, all dry branches and leaves must be burned, otherwise the disease will spread from them to new shoots and flowers. In addition, you need to use chemicals and folk remedies.

Conclusion

If climbing roses are chosen for the garden plot, planting and care will be quite difficult. To grow a strong bush that will delight you with abundant and long flowering, you must follow a number of rules. Roses are considered pretty capricious plants, but on the other hand, they will delight you with beautiful inflorescences and a delicate aroma.