Homemade bait table for fishing. DIY fishing table with feeder

Its dimensions are: 49x33x3 cm. You can also use a smaller tray with dimensions of 27x39 cm. It depends on the preferences of the fisherman. For some, a miniature table is enough, while others need a more spacious one. It should be said that it is more convenient to knit installations and equipment elements on a standard table.

We also need 4 legs. Can buy pvc pipe, which is used when installing electrical wiring or in sewers. The diameter of the tube is 2 cm.

We will attach the legs using plastic corners, which we will also buy in the same store as the pipes.

From the tools we will need a screwdriver and self-tapping screws 3 cm long, with which we will form the structure. We also need glue to connect the halves of the corners

The cost of a homemade table does not exceed 7-8 dollars. If you buy branded tables, you will spend 4-5 times more money. What's good homemade table? When folded, it will fit into a medium backpack. It is advisable to choose a small handbag or case for it.

While fishing, you will see for yourself how comfortable it will be when all the necessary attachments are located at arm's length. Many operations have to be done on your knees, and some attachments remain untouched because you are too lazy to take them out or they are conveniently forgotten.

If you have a table like this, you can lay out all the attachments, extractor, small boxes and attractants as conveniently as possible. You won't need to reach into your backpack every time for some small change. You can also tie a leash, rigging or installation by laying out all the necessary accessories and tools on the table.

Good fishing online stores will allow you to purchase any fishing goods at favorable prices!

The fisherman's calendar will allow you to understand how all the fish bite depending on the time of year and month.

The fishing gear page will tell you about many popular gear and devices for fishing.

Fishing baits - we describe in detail live, plant, artificial and unusual ones.

In the bait article you will get acquainted with the main types, as well as tactics for using them.

Learn all the fishing baits to become a real fisherman and learn how to the right choice.

Work order

First you need to cut two tubes, slightly shorter than the larger side of the tray. They will be used to attach the legs.

After this, we attach the corners to the tubes. These corners consist of two halves. To prevent these halves from detaching, the fastening points must be lubricated good glue and press well.

The corners of the tube must be greased with PVC glue and then placed on the tubes.

As a result, we should have the following two fasteners.

Next stage The work consists in screwing the tubes at the bottom of the tray with self-tapping screws.

First, you need to make markings in the places where we will attach the screws. Take a marker and make marks on the tube and on the tabletop.

After this, we drill holes using a screwdriver at all marks.

Drilling into a countertop is easier than drilling into pipes. Therefore, it is necessary to hold the tube well so as not to miss.

After all the holes are drilled, we begin assembling our table. We take self-tapping screws and screw them in from the top of the table, having first placed our tubes under them.

This stage is the most difficult, since you need to ensure that the holes on the table and tubes match. This operation must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the parts.

For reliability, you can screw one self-tapping screw on each of the 4 sides of the tray where the corners meet the side.

It should be noted that the resulting design is quite reliable. Everything holds up well, and you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the table in the future.

They can also be purchased at an electrical supply store. These plugs will allow you to install the table on various surfaces. Thanks to them, our product will take a stable position, and dirt will not get inside the legs. We choose plugs with the same diameter as our tubes.

Before putting the plug on the leg, lubricate it with glue. outer part tubes with glue to firmly fix this element. The glue is suitable for rubber or for PVC products.

It can be purchased at the same store. By screwing this clip with self-tapping screws to a plastic container, we can fix it to the leg.

You can place attachments in this container and place it under the table so that straight Sun rays didn't spoil it. You can attach several similar containers and place bloodworms, maggots, worms and other baits in them. This way you will extend their life and they will remain useful throughout the fishing session.

Summer fishing table is very important thing. Without it, it’s basically a mess on the shore; you’re always looking for little things in the grass and preparing gear on your knee.

Therefore, I was actively interested in tables in stores and on the Internet, but came to the conclusion that the designer who would design a table to suit me had not yet been born. Sometimes small, sometimes tall, sometimes uncomfortable, sometimes unreliable. And those tables with legs cost a lot of money. So I decided to make a table myself, to suit my requirements and with my own hands. I thought for a long time about coming up with something like this, so that it would be easy to manufacture, would not require the use of special tools, would be easy to use and transport, and would be inexpensive.

Until, by some miracle, I wandered into a Russian forum, where someone like me had already come up with everything and I just needed to borrow his idea and slightly change the design to fit the available materials. (Kowtow to the fraternal Russian people for the development).

It turned out that making a good fishing table is very simple and trivial. All you need is an aluminum profile, sheet plastic (I used 5 mm PVC), a couple of hardware, a simple tool and the correct direction for the growth of your hands.
And this is what I got as a result of “painstaking work”:

Table for fishing in transport form

Dimensions - width 60 cm, length 40 cm, thickness 4 cm. Total weight 4 kg. Calmly fits into a bag with a chair, extra space not required during transportation.

In working position

For use there are two tabletops with an internal size of 54cm x 38cm. + Shelf for mobile, walkie-talkie, etc. There’s plenty of room to spread out and you don’t have to hold anything in your teeth or look for it in the grass.
The height adjustment of each leg allows you to cope with uneven shores. The profile sides prevent objects from falling off the table. Thanks to the ability to lower the center of gravity, the homemade table is not prone to tipping over.

It is also possible to use such a rod with hooks for deepening boilies and temporarily storing ready-made leashes.

On the other hand, it’s the same only without hooks - for towels.

Here's another use case

Single-story long table

Or this option

Single-story wide table

or this way

Adjustment to the desired angle

Or, as a last resort, like this

Two separate tables

Includes 2 table tops, shelf, 2 rods, 8 legs.
During transportation, the tabletops become a pencil case into which all the parts are folded

Assembled

To secure the threaded legs in aluminum profiles you can’t cut it, so I decided to use an M22 nut. Since it was planned to use legs with a diameter of 16 mm, this particular nut was purchased with internal diameter 17mm. (I hurriedly suffered in vain, the width of this nut is 30mm and inner size profile 27 mm. I had to file off 3 mm using sandpaper.)
With legs of 15 mm. it was possible to take a smaller nut, but in any case it is necessary to select it so that the nut is not too narrow for the internal profile size and the wall thickness allows for a normal thread to be screwed on.
Next, drill holes in the nut and in the profile as shown in the figure.

In the nut, in one hole there is a thread cut for an M6 bolt, through the second hole the nut is attached to the profile using a rivet.

The profile is also attached along the perimeter to the PVC with rivets. The table is ready.

No special tool To make your own table, this design is not required. Everything that every normal person should have was used - a hacksaw, a drill, drills, a file and a rivet gun.

Who among us doesn’t like to go fishing with family or friends, have a picnic, barbecue, or just relax in nature.

However, in addition to fishing rods, food, barbecue and tents, you need at least some kind of camp furniture - it’s uncomfortable to cook and sit on the bare ground.

And the main item needed for a picnic outside the city is a folding table.

Now it can be purchased at any tourist or fishing store, but why spend money if folding table you can do it yourself. Let's find out how to do this and what is needed for this.

Design Features

Without going into details, we can distinguish two types of camping tables – a table with folding legs and a suitcase table.

In the first option, when transporting or carrying the legs are retracted under the tabletop. Upon arrival, you just need to move the legs of the table to place it.

In the second option, the tabletop is like a suitcase or a chessboard - in the stowed position the legs lie inside it, but in place they need to be taken out of the “suitcase”, connected to it and the table placed in the right place.

Both types have their advantages. A folding table is easier to make and literally takes seconds to set up. At the same time, the suitcase table is more convenient to carry and takes up less space, and, in addition, you can put dishes, skewers and other necessary things in it during transportation.

Wood, plastic or metal?

What material is best for making your own folding table for camping trips?

If ease of creation is your top priority and you don't have a wide range of tools or skills in working with plastics and metals, choose wood.

Timber, boards, chipboard, plywood - all this can be used to create a fairly simple folding table.

But a table made of wood, if its surface is not protected with varnishes and special coatings, will warp under the influence of dampness, sunlight and temperature changes and lose its attractive appearance. appearance.

Plastic and even metal can be used as material for legs and table tops. But here you may need those tools that cannot be found in every home. In addition, working with such materials is more difficult than with the same wood. But tables made of plastic are not subject to corrosion, and those made of metal are very strong and durable.

In order to make a collapsible or folding table, you need a set of enough simple tools, which can be found in any home or garage:

  • Jigsaw (can be replaced with a circular saw or wood hacksaw);
  • Electric drill for preparing holes for screws;
  • Hammer and Phillips screwdriver;
  • Tape measure, square, ruler, pencil and level.

Attention! remember, that cutting tools, such as a circular saw or a jigsaw are sources of increased danger! Comply with everything necessary measures safety at work.

Folding picnic table

To make something simple and strong enough, you need the bare minimum of materials and fasteners:

  • wooden boards, 20–40 millimeters thick. For the countertop, instead of boards, you can use a sheet of chipboard or plywood, approximately 10 millimeters thick;
  • self-tapping screws, furniture bolts, and for each pair of legs the bolts must be of different lengths, wing nuts for the bolts;
  • door handles for carrying the table and hooks.

First, cut from boards or sheets Chipboard table top required sizes. If the tabletop is made up of several boards, assemble them together, lay them down and measure the length and width.



Stages of work

Step 1. Making the frame
Lay the boards for the frame on the tabletop; on each side, the frame should move 2–3 centimeters away from the edge of the tabletop. Using a jigsaw, cut the boards to the required dimensions, then lay them back on the tabletop, checking that the length and width of the frame match the drawing. Outline the contours of the frame - use them to make holes in the tabletop for screws.


Important! In order to accurately maintain the dimensions of paired parts, connect the boards together with clamps and cut them together with a jigsaw or hacksaw.


Step 2. Intermediate bars
Cut out the support bars on which the spread out table legs will rest, and make four holes in them for screws. To prevent the table legs from colliding with each other when folding, make a second pair of legs wooden substrates, which will be located between the frame and the stop bars.


Step 3. Assembling the frame and tabletop
Assemble the frame elements together, secure the stop bars and wooden supports, and use an electric drill to make four holes for the bolts. Use screws to secure the table top and frame.


Step 4: Table Legs
Lay out and cut out the table legs with a jigsaw. In the upper part, where they are fixed to the frame, the legs should be rounded, while in the lower part there should be a cut at a slight angle (15–20 degrees). Make holes for the bolts.


Step 5. Assembling the table
Connect the first pair of legs with a crossbar and secure to the frame with a bolt and wing nut. Repeat the same with the second pair. Check that the legs do not cling to each other when unfolding and folding the table. If they get stuck, treat the legs at the point of friction with sandpaper.

The folding table is ready. Additionally, you can attach a handle to it for easy carrying and hooks for hanging towels or barbecue equipment.

Suitcase table

To make a camping suitcase table, you will need more materials and fasteners:

  • sheet of plywood or chipboard for the lid. If they are not available, you can use boards;
  • wooden beam for the legs and frame of the table top;
  • hinges, door or suitcase handle, two latches;
  • furniture bolts and wing nuts;
  • Self-adhesive screws.

Stages of work

Step 1. Take sheets of chipboard and cut out halves of the tabletop. Then saw off the frame bars to the required length and connect them to the tabletop halves with screws on all sides. Fasten the tabletop halves together using hinges.


Step 2. Cut four beams, which will be the legs of our table, make holes in them and in the frame for bolts, and make an indent so that the table legs are freely connected to the frame.






Step 3. Connect the legs and frame using furniture bolts and wing nuts.


Step 4. Attach a carrying handle to the frame. Don't forget to make two latches , so that the suitcase does not open during transportation.


Note! Before you start work, draw up a drawing of your table in several projections, calculate the dimensions of all the parts and how much material you will need. This way you will save yourself from mistakes, and you will not have to redo all the work again.

Protecting the camp table

A tree that is not protected by anything ages quickly enough: dampness, temperature changes that are inevitable in nature, sunlight and many other factors have a bad effect on the material and reduce the durability of the folding table.

Therefore, do not forget to treat all its surfaces, especially the countertop, which is most susceptible to harmful influences.

Use special antiseptic compounds and stain.

A final finish with varnish or paint will improve the appearance of the plywood or chipboard and make the camp table more beautiful.

How to make another version of a lightweight folding table, watch the video:

A table for summer fishing is a very important thing. Without it, it’s basically a mess on the shore; you’re always looking for little things in the grass and preparing gear on your knee.

Therefore, I was actively interested in tables in stores and on the Internet, but came to the conclusion that the designer who would design a table to suit me had not yet been born. Sometimes small, sometimes tall, sometimes uncomfortable, sometimes unreliable. And those tables with legs cost a lot of money.

So I decided to do it myself table yourself, according to your requirements and with your own hands. I thought for a long time about coming up with something like this, so that it would be easy to manufacture, would not require the use of special tools, would be easy to use and transport, and would be inexpensive.

Until, by some miracle, I wandered into a Russian forum, where someone like me had already come up with everything and I just needed to borrow his idea and slightly change the design to fit the available materials. (Kowtow to the fraternal Russian people for the development)

It turned out that making a good fishing table is very simple and trivial. All you need is an aluminum profile, sheet plastic (I used 5 mm PVC), a couple of hardware, a simple tool and the correct direction for the growth of your hands.

And this is what I got as a result of “painstaking work”:

Table for fishing in transport form

Dimensions - width 60 cm, length 40 cm, thickness 4 cm. Total weight 4 kg. Easily fits into a bag with a chair and does not require additional space during transportation.

In working position

For use there are two tabletops with an internal size of 54cm x 38cm. + Shelf for mobile, walkie-talkie, etc. There’s plenty of room to spread out and you don’t have to hold anything in your teeth or look for it in the grass.
The height adjustment of each leg allows you to cope with uneven shores. The profile sides prevent objects from falling off the table. Thanks to the ability to lower the center of gravity, the homemade table is not prone to tipping over.

It is also possible to use such a rod with hooks for deepening boilies and temporarily storing ready-made leashes.

On the other hand, it’s the same only without hooks - for towels.

Here's another use case

Single-story long table

Single-story wide table

Adjustment to the desired angle

Or, as a last resort, like this

Two separate tables

Includes 2 table tops, shelf, 2 rods, 8 legs.
During transportation, the tabletops become a pencil case into which all the parts are folded

To secure the threaded legs in aluminum profiles, you cannot cut them, so I decided to use an M22 nut. Since it was planned to use legs with a diameter of 16 mm, this particular nut with an internal diameter of 17 mm was purchased. (I hurriedly suffered in vain, the width of this nut is 30 mm and the internal profile size is 27 mm. I had to file off 3 mm with sandpaper.)

With legs of 15 mm. it was possible to take a smaller nut, but in any case it is necessary to select it so that the nut is not too narrow for the internal profile size and the wall thickness allows for a normal thread to be screwed on. Next, drill holes in the nut and in the profile as shown in the figure.

In the nut, in one hole there is a thread cut for an M6 bolt, through the second hole the nut is attached to the profile using a rivet.

The profile is also attached along the perimeter to the PVC with rivets. The table is ready.

No special tools are required to make your own table of this design. Everything that every normal person should have was used - a hacksaw, a drill, drills, a file and a rivet gun.