Homemade pipe bender for a profile pipe: device and manufacturing nuances. Types of pipe benders for profile pipes, do-it-yourself manufacturing schemes Do-it-yourself pipe bending machine

When arranging a site or preparing for the dacha season, the need arises for arcs made of profile pipe. They are needed when constructing a greenhouse, assembling or canopy. It is expensive to buy already bent arches - the price is twice as high as for the same flat rolled products. The solution is to do it yourself, and to make the process easier (it’s very difficult to do by hand) you need to make a pipe bender for the profile pipe. You will need channels or corners, rolling rollers and some other details. Among the tools - a grinder with a metal disc, welding machine, ruler.

Profile bender design

The machine for bending profile pipes is structurally different from the usual one. This is due, firstly, to the greater resistance of the profile to bending loads, and secondly, to the fact that the bending radius usually required is large. Therefore, the design contains three rollers. Two of them are installed permanently, one remains movable. Using a movable roller, the radius of curvature changes. In general, there are two types of pipe benders for profile pipes: with a middle movable roller and with an outer one (right or left, as desired).

Pipe bender with middle movable roller

The two outermost rollers are fixedly mounted on the body. They are raised above the plane of the base. For the middle roller, a special U-shaped frame is welded. A long clamping screw is installed in the middle of its jumper large diameter. A third bead is attached to the lower end of this screw (can be welded). By rotating this screw, the roller lowers and rises, changing the bending radius of the profile pipe.

A cloud is welded to one of the stationary rollers, with the help of which the pipe is rolled through the machine. To make it possible to apply less effort for rolling, two stationary rollers are connected using a chain. To effectively transmit torque, sprockets are welded to the rollers (possibly from a bicycle), and a chain is selected for them. Such simplest mechanism makes bending a profile pipe much easier.

With extreme movable roller

In this design, the right or left roller is made movable. It moves along with part of the base. This part is connected to the rest of the frame using powerful metal hinges.

Drawing of a bending machine for profile pipes with a lifting platform

You can change the height using a jack, as shown in the drawing. The height of the platform in this case is selected depending on the height of the jack. The bending radius is changed by lifting the movable part of the table.

Unlike the previous design, this pipe bender for a profile pipe is driven from the central roller - a handle is welded to it. To reduce the required force, you can also weld the sprocket to two fixed rollers and transmit torque using a chain.

What materials and design details are needed?

The base of the pipe bender is made from a channel or two welded angles. The thickness of the shelves is at least 3 mm; select the width of the shelves and the back of the channel to match the existing parts. One rule - the base must be massive and reliable.

Several holes can be made along the edges of the platform. Through them you can fix the machine to some heavy base using large diameter self-tapping screws. Fixation is necessary, since when bending pipes with a thick wall, significant forces have to be applied and it is more convenient to work if the machine is firmly fixed.

A few words about rollers. They must be made of good, high-quality, preferably hardened steel. It is on the rollers and on the axes that hold them that account for most of loads.

It should also be said about the shape of the rollers. They should not be smooth - there should be rollers along the edges that will prevent the pipe from “walking” during rolling. Only under such conditions will the arc from the profile pipe be smooth and not twisted. Ideally, each pipe size needs its own rollers. But then the design becomes more complicated - they need to be made removable, thought out reliable way fastenings The second option is to make videos of complex shapes, such as in the photo. Carve a few steps under different sizes pipes

In the same photo you can see that the upper part of the bed is not smooth, but toothed. With the help of such teeth, the rollers can be rearranged to different distances and thus also adjust the bending radius.

In general, homemade bending machines for profile pipes are assembled from what is at hand or what they can find/buy inexpensively. Those who have the opportunity grind out the rollers and insert bearings. Those who don’t have such an opportunity use what they have, right down to the bushings from bicycle wheels. In general, you need to understand the design and

Tricks to make pipe bending easier

To make the rollers move better, bearings are used. But, in principle, for homemade pipe bender, which will be used only occasionally, you can simply make holders from a corner or channel. Make a hole in them that is slightly larger in size than the axis on which the roller will be mounted. Pass the axle with the roller on through the holes of the holders and somehow fix them (at least weld on a couple of points that will be stoppers). While working for best move, lubricate the rubbing areas with a thick lubricant such as Litol. This is not suitable for industrial and semi-industrial production, but it’s just right for making arcs for a greenhouse or gazebo with your own hands.

There is one more trick that helps reduce the required force when bending a profile pipe. You can use the principle of increasing gears as in a bicycle. By the way, you can use bicycle sprockets. In this case, the handle that drives the rollers is welded to a small star. It is installed somewhere on the body. Sprockets are welded onto the shaft axis bigger size(but teeth with the same pitch). All this is connected by a suitable chain.

With this device, torque transmission is not needed electric drive- it will be easy to work

And one more improvement - if you constantly use a pipe bender for a profile pipe, it makes sense to mechanize it. In this case, they install a motor that operates at low speeds.

The procedure for bending a profile pipe on homemade machines

It is unlikely that you will be able to obtain the required bending radius in one go - too much force is required for this. It is impossible to create it manually. Receive the required bend in several passes:

First, the rollers are aligned so as to obtain a slight bend, the pipe is rolled in one direction, then removed from the rolls, unfolded and inserted on the other side. It is necessary to unfold in order to obtain an evenly curved pipe.
With the same position of the rollers, it is pulled several times until the curvature is no longer added.
If the required bending radius is not achieved, change the position of the roller and repeat the steps again.

The change in bending radius is achieved gradually, otherwise you will not be able to make an arc from a profile pipe using a homemade pipe bender. What to do if you need to repeat the same bend? Make a graduation - note to what height the roller moved, how many times it was rolled in each position. When repeated, the differences, if any, will be insignificant.

The difficulty of bending lies in the fact that there is no scale and it is difficult to obtain the intended bending radius without experience. Sooner or later you will get it, but you can spoil a lot of material in the process.

Video materials

Explanations and photos are good, but seeing the assembly process or the operation of the finished unit is much more useful. The first video shows the assembly (welding) process manual pipe bender for profile pipe. The option with a movable middle roller was selected.

The second video is about the operation of a simple pipe bender with a moving platform. This option is not suitable for large sections, but the pipe is not large section It can bend up to 40*40 mm.

How to bend a profile pipe without a machine

There are two ways to make an arc from a profile pipe without a profile bender - using welding and a template. Let's start with welding.

Get an arc by welding

The profile pipe is cut with a grinder on one side. They are made every 15-30 cm, depending on the required radius, cross-section and wall thickness. The cuts should not touch one side - the one that will be on the outside.

The spare part prepared in this way is bent, giving the desired bend. For reliability, the edges of the arc can be fixed by welding a rod to them. Then welding is carried out along all the cuts, welding them. AND final stage— grinding of welding points and treatment with anti-corrosion compounds.

Using a template

Thin-walled profiled pipes can be bent by hand using templates. If you need a special shape, it can be cut out of a piece of thick plywood or chipboard and secured to the table using clamps. On the workbench where we will bend the pipes, make about 8-10 holes. The template is placed near these holes.

The holes are repeated at one end of the pipe; with their help, the pipe is attached to the workbench. Now the free end of the pipe begins to be pulled smoothly, forming a bend that follows the shape. You need to pull smoothly, without jerking.

The template can also be made on the ground. Pipes-pegs are driven into the ground (at least half a meter deep). They form the required arc. For emphasis, two additional stakes are driven in, which are located to the side of the arc. The distance you need to step aside is slightly greater than the width of the pipe.

Having inserted the pipe, it is pulled towards the arc. Great efforts are required, the work is hard. This can only be achieved with a thin-walled, seamless pipe. The suture has too much resistance in the seam area. It is very difficult to overcome it manually.

Do you know a turner who can turn shafts for a pipe bender? If not, then this article is for you. We propose to make a profile bending machine of the simplest design without the use of turning operations. It will clearly not be for exhibition high technology, but it will definitely fulfill its function of bending profile pipes at home.

This pipe bender is also called a profile bender, since it is mainly intended for bending profile metal - profile pipe, channel, angle and strip. With special rollers, it allows you to bend round pipes. It differs from a standard pipe bender in that it bends pipes not just at a given angle, but bends them into an arc or ring.

Important technical points in the manufacture of profile bending machines.

When bending, the profile pipe is deformed and its sides are squeezed out. Moreover, the smaller the bending radius, the more extrusion of the side walls of the pipe is observed. Also, creases form on one side of the pipe. These creases do not affect the strength in any way. bent pipe, they just look ugly. To avoid creases on the pipe, it is necessary that the roller has a small rib exactly in the center. During the bending process, this rib will press in the side of the pipe, thereby eliminating creases. The height of the rib depends on the bending radius of the pipe. The smaller the bending radius of the pipe, the greater the height of such a rib should be. On average, a rib with a height of 3-5mm is sufficient. Wire can be welded onto the roller as a rib required diameter.

Bending a profile pipe with creases.

If you bend a profile pipe on rollers without a side flange, then there is a possibility of bending the pipe with a screw. This is due to the fact that during bending the pipe can move and its position relative to the roller axis will not be perpendicular, but at some degree. To avoid these problems, you need to bend the profile pipe on rollers with guide flanges.

The force that must be applied to bring the pipe bender rollers together and thereby bend the pipe depends on the distance between the rollers. In other words, the smaller this distance, the greater the force required to bring the rollers together. This is especially noticeable if the pipe bender is designed with a central movable roller and is clamped with a screw.

The distance between the rollers also affects the length of the pipe that can be bent on a given profile bender. Short pipes cannot be bent on a pipe bender that has a large distance between the rollers. For these reasons, the rollers on the profile bender are made so that they can be rearranged.

The smaller the diameter of the pipe bender rollers, the smaller the contact patch between the pipe and the roller will be and the greater the likelihood of the pipe slipping during bending. On professional pipe benders, rollers are made with a diameter of 100-200 mm, and they allow you to bend profile pipes of large cross-sections. For home use Rollers with a diameter of approximately 20mm are suitable.

The more drive rollers, the less likely the pipe will slip. If you are going to bend a profile pipe of large sections, then it is advisable to make two drive rollers.

If the central movable roller is pressed with a screw, then to facilitate its rotation it is necessary to place a bearing ball under it. Then the contact patch between the screw and supporting part will decrease and turning the screw will be much easier. It is better to choose a screw with a trapezoidal thread rather than a metric one. Trapezoidal threads can carry much greater axial loads than metric threads.

To bend round pipes you will need special rollers with a semicircular profile. If you bend a round pipe on straight rollers, it will be flattened and instead round pipe it will turn out to be an oval.

How to make rollers for profile bending.

Rollers can be made different ways, even at first glance the most unusual. For example, bicycle hubs can be used as rollers. Such hubs will not withstand heavy loads, but they will be quite capable of bending a pipe with a cross-section of 20x40 mm.

You can use regular crowbar as rollers. We simply cut it to the required length and put a bearing of a suitable diameter on such a roller. For example, scrap with a diameter of 30 mm, bearings No. 306 GOST8338-78 are well suited for it. To prevent the bearings from moving along the roller axis, it is enough to apply some welding near the bearing race.

Rollers can be made from pipes and purchased washers. The figure below clearly shows the design of the roller.

If you do not have suitable washers, you can make them yourself. How to make them, see below in the article under the title “how to make rollers for bending a profile pipe using the rolling method”. Instead of a bolt, you can insert a metal circle of the required diameter into the roller and weld it.

A profile bending roller made of a pipe, washers and a metal circle.

How to secure bearings to a profile bending frame.

The best option is if the bearings are used in a ready-made housing. If there are no such bearings, then we use any suitable ones without a housing. They do not have to be rigidly attached to the frame of the pipe bender. You can make stands for them from a profile pipe or corners. The photos below show various options bearing mountings.

Design features of profile benders.

A pipe bender can be made from almost any scrap metal. The frame must be sufficiently rigid, it does not matter what it is made of. It is mainly made from channel steel, as it is quite rigid and has a wide surface for installing pipe bender shafts.

When making a profile bender, you need to build on the materials that you have available.

One of the main components of a pipe bender is the power unit. It is made either from a jack or from a threaded screw. If you have a screw, you can make a pipe bender with a central movable roller. The screw, by the way, can be taken from an old non-working jack or from a clamp. The screw must be powerful, at least 16mm in diameter.

If you have a jack, then you can choose what type of profile bending to make. You can make a pipe bender with an outer movable roller and a breaking frame, or with a central movable roller and outer fixed rollers.

The design is basically unimportant; the pipe will bend in any case. If you have sprockets and a chain, for example, bicycle ones, then it makes sense to connect the two shafts with a chain and thus make both of them drive shafts. This will greatly help when bending profile pipes of large cross-section, for example, 40x60 and more. Small cross-section pipes bend well even on one drive roller. If the rollers slip when bending the pipe, then you need to slightly ease the pressure of the moving roller and then the slipping will stop.

The drive roller handle can be made from a regular bicycle pedal or a round steering wheel can be made.

If you intend to bend the pipe into a ring, then it should be possible to remove the top roller, otherwise the ring will be impossible to remove from the pipe bender.

Below are several photos showing various design features.

Profile bender with a removable top roller and a movable outer roller.

How to make a manual profile bender with a rolling roller.

This type of pipe bender allows you to bend profile and round pipes at an angle of 90 degrees or more.

The principle of such a pipe bender is based on rolling a pipe with a roller. The roller profile must match the pipe profile. This condition prevents unwanted deformations of the pipe at the bend. That is, protrusion of pipe walls and creases are excluded. This pipe bender allows you to bend profile and round pipes.

To bend pipes round section, you will need rollers with a semicircular profile. Here, unfortunately, it is impossible to do without turning work. But for bending pipes with a profile section, you can make rollers yourself.

How to make rollers for bending profile pipes using the rolling method.

These videos are pretty easy to make. You will need sheet metal, a drill, an angle grinder (grinder) and a bolt.

Let's take it sheet metal and mark the circle.
Use a grinder to cut the metal around the marked circle.
Drill a hole for the bolt in the center of the workpiece.

4. Insert a bolt into the hole, tighten it with a nut and secure the structure in the drill chuck.

5. Process the edge of the workpiece using a drill and grinder. You need to install a cleaning disk in the angle grinder.

6. We assemble the processed workpieces into a roller. Please note that the roller has a protrusion of approximately 5 mm in the center. If you have read the entire article, you should already know its purpose. Such a protrusion in the center of the roller should be made only on the central fixed roller; it is not needed on the rolling roller.

Roller for a pipe bender made of five circles.

Important points when making a pipe bender with a rolling roller.

In the rotating bracket of the pipe bender, it is necessary to provide holes for installing rollers for different pipes.

The holes must be at a certain distance from the center of the stationary roller. To make them correctly, you must first install the central roller, insert the pipe into it, then press the rolling roller to the pipe. And now the most important thing is that the rolling roller should be moved so that a gap of about 4-6 mm is formed between the pipe and it. This will be the place where the hole should be. Drill a hole on the swivel bracket in this place.

Can you tell me why this gap is needed? The fact is that the gap between the rolling roller and the workpiece in the initial position reduces the deformation of the pipe wall with outside fold. In other words, the pipe will be pulled out of the clamp less during bending and the quality of bending will improve.

You also need to understand that each pipe has its own minimum bend radius. If you try to bend the pipes less than this radius, then with a high probability it will bend with creases. Therefore, the diameters of the central fixed rollers must be selected in accordance with the minimum bend radius.

Hello. Today I want to tell you about my homemade pipe bender that I made this winter.
I've been thinking about building a machine like this for a long time. With its help, you can roll profile pipes, giving them an arc shape. This operation is in great demand - you can assemble, for example, a greenhouse, a canopy, a canopy over the entrance. Can be given interesting shape the top edge of a gate or metal fence...

And this winter I found time and started doing this homemade project. When designing, I considered the following points:
Considering that I am not going to use it professionally, I decided to make a relatively lightweight design, which is also easy to transport and will not take up much space during storage. (After all, I will bend pipes either near the house or at the dacha. I will not use it every year. And I certainly won’t have to bend large-section pipes). Therefore, I decided not to make a powerful stationary structure with a long service life...

There are many descriptions of similar machines on the Internet. Their operating principle is the same - they are based on three shafts, one of which is movable in vertical plane. It is he who bends the pipe and, rolling along these shafts, it takes the shape of an arc.

... Basically, they are all divided into two types:
1. With a “breaking” frame:

2. With a movable central carriage.

The second type is more compact (albeit more complex), so I decided to do just that.

In turn, pipe benders with a movable central carriage are also divided into two types: With a driving central shaft and with two driving outer shafts connected to each other by a drive chain.

If you make the central shaft leading, then it is possible to easily change the distance between the outer ones, which will provide additional adjustment of the work depending on the cross-section (and therefore rigidity) of various profile pipes.

At first I doubted whether there would be slippage if only one drive shaft was used, but after observing a pipe bender with one drive shaft in operation, I realized that for not very large sections this force is quite enough. But I’m not going to bend pipes with a height greater than, for example, 60 mm... That’s why I settled on such a device.

And after some time, I got a pipe bender, which you will see in this video:

So, in more detail... I needed:
1. Old faulty hydraulic jack
2. Profile pipes of various sections.
3. Circle with a diameter of 40 mm, a length of 500 mm.
4. Bearings 6206 4pcs
5. Bearings 6202 8 pcs.
6. Channel No. 65
7. Thrust bearings 2 pcs.
8. Hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, cotter pins)

I started by making the main working elements - shafts. I had a 40 mm round timber, half a meter long. It was possible to take a thicker one, but... I had this one!))). Therefore, I sawed it into three parts. Two - 130 mm each, and one - all that remains))))). On lathe machined shafts for bearings (up to 30 mm diameter)

The shafts are ready. I started assembling the carriage. I decided to make it from the 65th channel - the 206th bearings fit well into it...

After I cut the channel to the required length, I drilled a hole in its center and welded it across the sides along the corner:

After that I started making the center screw. I took it from an old one hydraulic jack, which I found on scrap metal. When I was sure that it would never be a jack again, I decided to use it.

The screw itself had a diameter of 30 mm. In its end, I drilled a blind hole with an 8mm drill, hammered a pin in there and secured it with welding:

The screw in the jack was screwed into the piston. I cut him off top part(with thread) and another ring, 20 mm wide.

I put this ring on the screw, inserted the screw itself with a pin into the hole in the carriage and welded the ring to the carriage:

It will be seat for the support bearing. (I selected it according to the outer diameter)

I screwed a nut onto the stud and drilled a hole in the nut and in the stud:

It was only possible in high heels, but it seemed safer to me. The nut can now be secured with a cotter pin after assembling the assembly. And the assembly, as you guessed, consists of a screw, a bearing, a carriage, a second bearing and a nut.

Now, when pressed, the screw will rest against the carriage through the upper bearing, and when lifted, the carriage will hang on it through the lower one.
On the sides of the carriage I welded a piece of 50 by 20 profile pipe - these will be the guides, and in the corners I drilled holes and cut M6 threads. The bolts securing the drive shaft clamps will be screwed into them.

I cut out the bearing mounting clamps themselves from tin - there is no need for strength there, as long as the shaft does not fall when the carriage is lifted:

Next I started making the top plate. It needs to be made very strong - it will bear all the force of the screw when it bends the pipe. Therefore, I made it from the same 65 channel. Since for the vertical racks I decided to use a 50 by 25 profile pipe (the distance between the shelves of the 65th channel is exactly 50 mm. The racks will fit into it and are secured with M10 bolts and nuts), then the width of the top plate should be 50 mm larger carriage width (2 times 25). I cut two such pieces of channel.

Another one was cut into half and spread lengthwise:

I inserted the threaded part cut from the jack piston into the center:

I cooked everything and trimmed off the excess:

Next, I started making the frame. It was also assembled from a profile pipe. I took the cross section 60 by 30:

I decided to make three positions for each shaft. I also made the mountings for the bearings from a profile pipe, so I cut 12 identical pieces of 50 mm each. (Here, and not only here, mine, which I told you about in a previous publication, helped me a lot):

After which I welded vertical posts and bearing mountings to the frame:

And also four “ears” along the edges. Holes will later be drilled in them for attaching the pipe bender with screws to the workbench.

The main part is ready. You can start pre-assembly:

I welded a piece of 20 by 20 pipe to the screw on top. I left it long. I decided that during the testing process, if it gets in the way, I will cut it off and use a removable lever made of a 15 by 15 pipe, which is inserted inside... But, looking ahead, I will say that this was not required. The lever really interferes with turning the drive handle if it is turned a quarter turn (it sticks out across the pipe bender). But it turned out that tightening the screw at half-turn intervals is quite normal.

Next, I started making the drive handle...I decided to make the handle itself from a 15 by 15 profile pipe and a stud. I drilled a hole at the end, inserted a piece of M14 stud into it, welded it and cleaned it:

Now you need to make a bend on the lever itself - the pipe bender will be installed on the edge of a table or workbench.

Next, connect it to the shaft. I decided in advance to make it not only removable, but also so that it would turn over and in the transport position would not dangle or cling. I made this profile on the shaft:

Then I drilled a blind hole and cut an M8 thread in it. The handle will be placed on the shaft and secured through a washer with a wing bolt.

Now we need to make a hub on the handle. I used corner scraps:

Then, like a sculptor, I cut off everything unnecessary :)))))

The lever is ready. On the handle itself (which I have made from an M14 pin), I simply put a piece of polyethylene water pipe and tightened the cap nut.

In general, I would like to dwell separately on my use of cap nuts. I often use them if I need an axis of rotation. Having chosen the correct length of the axle, you can screw on the cap nut and tighten it with maximum force - it will rest against the axle with the cap and will not unscrew easily. Of course, it is not worth fixing the axle on which, for example, a wheel is located, in this way, without a cotter pin, but for “unimportant” axles, such as “curtains” on which something opens and closes, this is quite suitable.

Let's return to the pipe bender... As I already said, such a moment as a very simple reinstallation of the shafts was important to me. (Because, knowing, for example, myself, I am sure that I will not use the option until the last minute if it is difficult to use... For example, if the shafts were close, and a pipe came across with a large cross-section, I would try carefully roll it in this position of the shafts, if to change it you would have to unscrew a lot of nuts... And most likely, it would crush...). That is why I made the bearing mounting points from a profile pipe. The shaft is simply inserted into the desired pair of racks.

But this design contradicted my other requirement - mobility! After all, when moving the machine, the shafts would have to be removed and moved separately... At the same time, the bearings would have to be removed from them (I machined them for a loose fit and they can fall off). This didn't suit me. Therefore, I decided to make a part that would press the bearings from above and fix them. I took two sections of profile pipe, section 50 by 20 mm, wall 2 mm.

After which I cut them lengthwise along the wide part, dividing the wall into 10 and 40 mm. At the same time, on the other hand, I marked this size in a mirror way. I ended up with four blanks like this:

Considering that the width of the 206th bearing is 15 mm, it fits quite tightly inside this workpiece.
I measured the required length, I cut the rest like this:

After that, I bent the upper part down 90 degrees, making a corresponding angle cut:

I cut out this “tooth” on them:

Now I installed both shafts on one side of the pipe bender, put the resulting parts on them, vertical posts, having drilled through, I attached them with long M4 screws with cap nuts (they turned out to be axles). In front, I bent the strips of side walls sticking out towards each other towards each other. Now, if we rivet them together, we will get a U-shaped cover, which, when lowered down, will cover the shaft bearings and fix them tightly:

The need for reliable and simple device for bending profile pipes occurs when House master begins to seriously study metal. Gazebo frame, carport, garden bench, Workbench…

These and many other designs turn out strong and beautiful if the profile metal for them is carefully bent on a special profile bender.

Purchasing finished machine There is always an economical alternative, since you can make a pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands in a home workshop. Before the first workpiece is clamped in a vise, we suggest that you become familiar with the operating principle and existing varieties homemade pipe benders.

How does a pipe bender work?

Operating principle of this device simple: a profile pipe is placed between three support shafts. The central shaft creates pressure that bends the metal at the desired angle.

A pointing machine is used to bend the pipe in one local area.

Profile pipe bent on a point device

If you need to get an arched profile, then use a rolling bending machine that combines metal bending with broaching.

Types of pipe bending machines

Depending on the drive that transmits force to the profile metal, there are three types of pipe benders:

mechanical (pressure is created manually using a central screw or lever);
hydraulic (a hydraulic jack is used);
electric (bending force is created by an electric motor);
electrohydraulic (the hydraulic cylinder is driven by an electric motor).

Point mechanical pipe bender

Mechanical rolling profile bender (the screw creates pressure on the profile, broaching is done using the central shaft and handle)

It should be noted that a rolling pipe bender with manual profile pulling is designed for small cross-section pipes (maximum 40x40 mm). It is impossible to stretch a large profile manually. To bend it, powerful machines with an electric broaching mechanism are used.

Manual rolling bending machine (broaching is performed by the outermost rollers driven by a handle and chain, and the pressure is created by a screw and a central shaft)

Video about the design of a machine with an electric motor:

How to make a bending machine with your own hands?

The basic principle that should be followed when developing a drawing for a homemade pipe bender is maximum simplicity of design and reliability.

Option 1

A machine for point bending can be assembled from two pieces of channel, four corners and two trimmings of fingers from tractor tracks.

Pipe bending in it is performed by a standard hydraulic jack with a force of at least 5 tons. A steel “shoe” is installed on its working rod. You can order it from a turner or make it yourself from an old pulley, the width of the “stream” of which is equal to the width of the profile pipe. By cutting off a half from the pulley and drilling a seat for the jack rod in it, a hydraulic drive mechanism is obtained.

bed homemade device consists of four corners (60-80 mm shelf) welded to a steel plate. Two channels are welded in parallel to the upper ends of the corners. Holes are drilled symmetrically in their walls to adjust the bend angle of the workpiece.

IN working position manual machine for bending a profile pipe is given very simply:

Two steel fingers are inserted into the holes on the channel and stop rollers are placed on them.
The jack with the shoe is raised so that a profile pipe passes between it and the stops.
Having installed the pipe, use the jack handle to create a bending force.

Video of the assembly and operation of a point pipe bender:

Option 2

It is also quite possible to build a rolling manual pipe bender for a profile pipe on your own. To make it you will need 2 linear meters channel (wall height 15-20 cm), from which the base and racks are cut.

To make rollers, take six short scraps steel pipe. It will act as a cage for bearings. Therefore her inner diameter must be equal to the outer diameter of the bearing. Having ordered three shafts from the turner for attaching the bending rollers, they begin welding the frame.

For the machine under consideration, the role of a guide setting the angle of bending of the profile is played by the rightmost support. It is mounted on a channel, pivotally connected to the main frame using conventional door hinges. The jack's working rod rests against the turntable and lifts it.

By rotating the handle mounted on the intermediate stop shaft, the profile is pulled through the machine.

You can adjust the bend radius of the profile not only by tilting the rotary channel, but also by using the outermost rollers. To do this, they are not tightly welded to the frame, but made movable (holes are drilled in the channel and support plates).

Instead of a hydraulic jack, you can use a screw automobile jack to lift the end drum.

Video on making a rolling pipe bender:

It is necessary to pay attention to the mechanisms discussed in this article. To make a pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands, study detailed instructions, video, photo, drawings. Using these materials, it is not difficult to implement the corresponding project.

Read in the article

Do-it-yourself pipe bender for a profile pipe: basic data

Before you study working documentation and algorithms for installation operations, the intended purpose of the product must be accurately determined. A pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands must be designed for certain forces, workpiece sizes, and materials. Easier to install significant criteria after familiarization with the parameters of devices tested in practice.

What are these devices for?

To create the necessary force, a lever mechanism. For fixation free plot pipes use a metal pin. It is installed in suitable grooves of the “comb” before performing work operations.

Using this factory sample as an example, it is easier to study the design features:

Handle (1) regulates the automatic stroke of the piston in the opposite direction. This solution reduces the burden on the user.
A hydraulic system is installed inside the housing. When the handle is moved up and down, a force of up to 150 kN is transmitted to the working piston (8). This is quite enough for quickly bending workpieces made of durable metals.
Support rollers (3, 4) are installed in the required frame holes open type(5, 9). They do not damage the surface, but provide reliable fixation.
This removable segment (6) is designed to be bent at an angle of 90°. But with the appropriate configuration, it can be installed on a similar product of a different shape.
The robust housing (10) is mounted on three supports (7). Rubber pads prevent movement during work operations.
In addition to cleaning from dirt, you should occasionally check the condition oil filter(eleven). No other regulatory procedures are needed.

In this technique, a workpiece of the desired shape is used. The pipe is pressed against it using a rotating roller and lever.

Important! Before bending a workpiece using a certain radius, you should study specialized reference books. They provide data on the permissible deformations of pipes made of different materials, With different thickness walls If these instructions are violated, visible or hidden defects will form in the finished products.

Relatively small mechanical loads on working tools are created by levers and manual force. To work with durable metals The equipment is equipped with hydraulics.

Making a pipe bender with your own hands for a profile pipe: drawings and other preparatory operations

A simple device for bending aluminum and plastic blanks is shown in this figure.

To make such a structure you need a strong one. After marking, a round profile is cut out of it. The remaining part is used to make the supporting element. The created parts are rigidly attached to the supporting surface. To ensure the strength of the connections, in addition to screws, clamps are used. Next, the pipe is bent by hand until the desired shape is formed.

Before creating this simple pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands, it is recommended to make a basic drawing with dimensions. A template made of thick paper or cardboard on which the markings will be applied will come in handy. It is clear that to produce more complex structures it is necessary to prepare a full design documentation.

It is not necessary to strictly adhere to engineering standards in order to make a pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands; a schematic image is quite enough. You just need to indicate all the dimensions, decide on the materials, technological process And components. The project will help solve several practical problems:

During the preparation process, it will become clear whether it is necessary to use other special equipment.
Full list necessary components details will be needed for targeted visits to certain stores.
We must not forget that the machine must be protected from adverse external influences using wood impregnation, .
Some parts will be too difficult to make yourself. Appropriate orders should be placed in specialized workshops.

Important! When bending strong metal pipes needed great effort. In order not to take unnecessary risks, you can use drawings of a proven design, or copies of an industrial design.

Making a manual homemade pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands: video and detailed instructions

Here we talk about how to quickly create a pipe bender with your own hands for a profile pipe (video).

The master used available materials, a channel, and part of the drive from an old bicycle. But he had to create the connections himself to ensure the integrity of the heavy structure.

To find out how to make a pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands, the drawings and videos are supplemented with descriptions of work operations. Below are the algorithms for several assembly technologies.

Rolling pipe bender

Drawing	Actions
	To create a high-quality one, you can use this drawing as a sample. Here the workpiece is placed between three rollers. The extreme ones (2) – perform supporting functions. To install them at different distances (to obtain the required bending angles), grooves are made in the support strips (1). Required pressure created using a screw mechanism (6, 7). The force is transmitted through the central roller (4), which is rotated by the handle (5).
	The holes in the lower parts are created according to these dimensions. A channel with a wall thickness of 4 mm was selected for the workpiece.
	The upper part is created with cutouts. They must be made level so as not to interfere with the movement of the support screws.
	The thread is cut in accordance with this pattern.
	For the handle you can choose ready product, or use these sizes.
	Once assembled, you will get such a cute and functional product. There are no welded joints. But the components are difficult to make on your own without professional skills and specialized machines.

Hydraulic pipe bender

The screw mechanism performs its functions too slowly.

This design uses a standard jack. It is fixed rigidly to a bar, which is suspended on two springs. This solution simplifies manipulations with a heavy jack when installing workpieces and clamping segments.

The pipe rests on two round pins. They can be rearranged into other holes to create products with the desired radius of curvature. Parts of a durable steel frame (4-5 mm) are fastened with bolted and welded joints. The design turned out to be collapsible. If necessary, it is not difficult to dismantle it. The jack can be used for other operations.

Holes are created at the base of the frame. Through them the machine can be firmly attached to wooden floor nails, screws. This gives additional stability stationary structure. Its metal parts are degreased, coated and painted. Besides the good appearance provided good protection from destructive processes.

For your information! When creating a homemade pipe bender for a round pipe, rollers, stencils and segments with a different shape of contact surfaces are used. The technologies used are the same as for bending profile products. The above drawings with appropriate modifications will be useful.

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