DIY wooden dining table. DIY dining table How to make an extendable kitchen table yourself

Regardless of the size of the kitchen, be it spacious kitchen in a new building, country house or small in a small family, the most important piece of furniture is kitchen table. Today, different types of tables are used to produce tables. Construction Materials, for example, glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But of all these materials, wood is still used more often. If you want to save money, you can make the kitchen table yourself. In this situation, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But first you should work hard and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider with you in this article.

We make important measurements and calculations

Before starting work on making a kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Typically, such tables are designed for a specific number of people. Typically, this number ranges from three to nine. But it is best to take into account a couple when calculating additional places, in case guests arrive. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a table big size, which can accommodate up to fifteen people.

Important calculations:

  • The working distance for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of people. The resulting figure will be the perimeter of the future table.
  • How exactly the table will be installed: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first option, the table can accommodate more guests.
  • Will the table have drawers or other accessories?

You need to decide on the size and location. Optimal width a table is considered to be 80–110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, you will have difficulties when serving. If you choose an oval table shape, you need to calculate the circumference. To do this, multiply the square of the radius by Pi (3.14).

Round or oval kitchen tables must be located only in the center of the kitchen.

  • Do not place the table near the stove.
  • You cannot place the table under the air conditioner.

It is equally important to decide on the shape of the table. Surface geometry can dramatically change the appearance of an entire space. The shape directly determines whether it will be convenient to eat or not. The rectangular shape with right angles is most in demand. These countertops are great for square or rectangular kitchens. Moreover, it can be placed near a wall or in the center of the room.

Oval-shaped tables are also very popular. There are several valid reasons:

  1. The oval table has an attractive appearance.
  2. There is no need to go around corners. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
  3. An oval table is better suited for a formal meal.

There are a large number of advantages in favor of an oval-shaped kitchen table. But if available big family it is inferior to the rectangular shape. There are also round shapes, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take certain dishes. As for the oval tabletop, the ideal diameter is 140 cm.

So, when choosing the shape of the table, proceed mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen with an area of ​​8 m2 or less oval table will be impractical as it will require a lot of free space.

Preparing drawings and tools

If you have decided on the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can proceed to the next stage - drawing up a drawing. It should display required dimensions surfaces, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening certain components. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120×60×75.

Although such a table will be small, using its example you can easily understand the principle of manufacturing such furniture. In your drawing, you can change the dimensions of the table to suit your needs.

You will need:

  1. Tabletop 1.2×0.6 m – 1 piece.
  2. Cross bars 40×2.5 cm – 2 pieces.
  3. Longitudinal jumpers 100×2.5 cm – 2 pieces.
  4. Legs for a table 70 cm high - 4 pieces.

To build a tabletop, you need to prepare boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to consider a method for attaching important components.

First of all, you will need to collect all necessary tool and materials:

  • plane,
  • hacksaw,
  • electric jigsaw,
  • screwdriver,
  • sandpaper,
  • ruler or tape measure,
  • square,
  • pencil,
  • circular saw,
  • milling machine,
  • file,
  • clamps,
  • paint brush,
  • wood glue,
  • polyurethane varnish: matte or glossy,
  • solvent.

When everything is ready, you can start working.

Assembly Guide: Tabletop Requirements

As for the tabletop, it is important to decide whether it will be sliding or not. For example, when assembled, the table can be used for preparing food, and when extended, it can be used as a means of eating.

The countertop should not absorb odors and grease. Consider practicality too.

A good countertop should not absorb moisture and withstand strong blows. The table surface should not be afraid of steam, condensation and high temperature. All these requirements are met by a tabletop made of natural and artificial stone or covered ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in an Art Nouveau style interior.

One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated with film or covered with plastic. By price chipboards available to many. Moreover, this material is the easiest to work with. Some may deny that chipboard countertops are practical. This is partly true, but if it is treated correctly it will last for more than one year. Here are some recommendations and tips for working with chipboard countertops:

  • The film or plastic should be rounded at the ends of the chipboard.
  • Each 90° rounded end is treated with silicone.
  • However, in this position the end is vulnerable to moisture, so it is better to turn the end 180°.

You should be objective and mention the disadvantages of such a tabletop. If the chipboard swells, then there is no way to fix this problem. As a result, what will have to be done new table or at least a countertop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and to mechanical stress.

Of course, if we talk about the most ideal and environmentally friendly option, then wood rightfully comes first. But such a surface is more capricious in care. Do not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood, scratches or other damage. Microbes can settle and multiply inside them, which negatively affect mechanical strength wood Therefore, from time to time, wooden countertops need to be varnished, cleaned, and covered with a layer of wax.

Requirements for legs

Depending on the shape and size of the table, the number of legs will vary. For example, if you are making a table from a laminated chipboard, then 4 legs that are attached to the corners of the tabletop will be enough. If you make strong wooden legs, then this design will be durable and strong.

You can make the legs yourself. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will depend entirely on the shape of the legs. If you think you can't do it, then buy ready-made metal legs or choose carved wooden ones. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities.

The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, this will depend directly on the weight, shape and configuration of the table top and table as a whole.

A table with one massive leg looks impressive and beautiful from the outside. To install it, a high-quality cross-shaped strapping is performed.

Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table with two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that the legs will not interfere with any of the sitting people. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the support area. They are connected to each other by a jumper board.

But also regular tables on four legs are simple in design and do not require precise and complex calculations. This table is stable and durable. The most important thing here is to choose the right size of the legs and mount them at the correct distance. At the same time, tables on four legs can be very different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.

So, regardless of the number of legs chosen in your design, the most important thing is always their aesthetics. The aesthetic appeal of table legs is even more important than the beauty of the tabletop. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth, and the legs are always visible.

We build a folding table

One of simple shapes kitchen table - rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls of the box. The tabletop and sides can be made from 18 mm chipboard, and the legs from 40x40 mm blocks. First you need to make drawers from plywood, 2 cm thick (the table legs will be attached to them), as well as two horizontal slats. It is on them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for manufacturing you will need to purchase the following material:

  • Self-tapping screws 4×16.
  • Self-tapping screws 4×50.
  • Furniture corners 30×30.
  • Laminated edges to match the color of the chipboard.
  • Wooden dowels 8×40.

To make the table extend, you can use standard guides. They ensure smooth movement of the tabletop. So, all the necessary parts of the following sizes are pre-made:

  • Leg 710 mm.
  • Two fixed parts 450×700 mm.
  • Removable part 400×700 mm.
  • For the non-removable part box there are four sidewalls 420×120 mm.
  • For the box for non-removable parts, two end ones 600×120 mm.
  • There are two side drawers made of plywood, 830×120 mm.
  • There are two end drawers made of plywood, 498×120 mm.
  • To accommodate a removable tabletop, two strips 498x120 mm.

With such preparations you will get an extendable table with the following dimensions:

  1. When extended, 1300×700 mm.
  2. When assembled, 900×700 mm.

It is best to cut all the blanks using special equipment. This is important in order to accurately maintain all dimensions. All plywood and wood pieces should be thoroughly cleaned and varnished in two layers.

So, step by step instructions:

  1. First of all, the lateral and longitudinal drawers are fixed with outside legs flush with the ends. Afterwards, using 4x50 mm self-tapping screws on the outside and 4x16 mm on the inside, the corners are attached. The corners are attached to the longitudinal drawers through horizontal strips.
  2. Next, with inside A wide guide is fixed to the side drawer.
  3. You will need to drill two holes at the inner ends of the tabletop for the dowels. They are attached for a collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second will be attached with glue. The distance from the dowel to the edge of the tabletop should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
  4. Two dowels are mounted on the removable tabletop. To do this with reverse side two holes are drilled.
  5. On next stage It's time to assemble the U-shaped parts of the chipboard box. In this case, the end elements 600x120 should be located between the sidewalls 420x120 mm.
  6. Now screw on the narrow guides. This is necessary so that the chipboard box moves on average 2 mm above the plywood collet.
  7. Afterwards, the guides are latched and checked for movement along the drawer.
  8. Using corners and 4x16 mm screws, attach the non-removable part of the tabletop. Both parts must match perfectly. Therefore, just before attaching them, slide both parts and check their alignment. Then carefully move the drawers apart and secure the tabletops.
  9. Place the removable part of the tabletop on the shelf inside the table.

A folding table is an original solution for a small kitchen!

If your kitchen is miniature in size, then choosing the right shape for the kitchen table can be difficult. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. When folded, it will serve as a decorative frame, and when unfolded, it will serve as a full-fledged table for dining. Although in each individual case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visualize exactly what your drawing will look like.

To work you need:

  • MDF board 180 mm thick – 5 pieces,
  • 150×90 cm,
  • 130×10 cm – 2 pieces,
  • 90×20 cm,
  • 70×20 cm,
  • holdfast,
  • wood glue,
  • acrylic putty,
  • electric drill,
  • drill for wood 3 mm and for metal 8–10 mm,
  • sandpaper,
  • acrylic paint for wood,
  • roller,
  • masking adhesive tape,
  • screws 3.5×30 and 3.5×16 mm,
  • loops,
  • screwdriver,
  • two furniture bolts.

The entire process will not take you much time if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions below.

  1. Based on the set of materials, the table will be made of MDF. Make drawings in advance.
  2. The first step is to construct the frame. To do this, four smaller elements are attached to the bottom of the largest board using a carpenter's vice. Every 250 mm, holes are drilled in the frame with a Ø3 mm drill, up to 3 cm deep.
  3. Afterwards, using a metal drill Ø8-10 mm, a hole is drilled to a depth of 3 mm. This way it will be possible to deepen the heads of the screws.
  4. Next, wood glue is applied to the lower surface of the four frame elements, and then each element is placed in its place. Each of them must be pressed well with a carpenter's vice.
  5. Attaching the frame with glue is not enough, so you should additionally secure it with screws.
  6. At the same time, mask the screw caps so that they do not spoil general view. For this you will need acrylic putty.
  7. When the putty has dried, you can sand it sandpaper surface of the decorative frame.
  8. The ends of the tabletop should be taped with masking tape.
  9. Paint the surface of the frame acrylic paint using a roller, and paint the corners and edges with a brush.
  10. Then screw the hinges along the short edge of the tabletop. There must be at least 150 mm from the edge. Mark holes on the wall and drill for dowels. This way the hinges will be screwed to the wall.
  11. When the table is in a vertical position, it will be held in place by bolts from above. They should be secured in such a way that they are not conspicuous, for example at the edges of wall shelves.

Table from postforming tabletop in 5 stages

Such a table can be completed in the shortest possible period of time. To do this, you will need to first collect all required material and tool. You will need:

  • pencil,
  • postforming tabletop,
  • jigsaw,
  • jigsaw file,
  • Sander,
  • edging,
  • cutter,
  • silicone sealant,
  • rubber mallet,
  • sharp knife,
  • clamps,
  • metal legs with holder,
  • hex wrench.

All work can be completed in 5 successive stages.

Stage 1

Apply markings on the front side of the tabletop with a pencil. The markings will correspond to your drawing. Each rounding is made with a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the edging from changing color in sharp bends.

Stage 2

Now you need to give the tabletop the appropriate shape. To do this, use a jigsaw. When cutting, it is recommended to leave a small gap of 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the jigsaw blade. It should have a reverse direction of the teeth. This will avoid chipping the plastic coating. Although they may be partially hidden by the edging. To accurately finalize the dimensions and outlines of the tabletop, you need to work on the ends grinder tape type.

Stage 3

In the third step, it's time to mill the groove. Milling is always performed strictly in the center of the end. And this is even regardless of whether the edging exactly matches the thickness of the tabletop or is large. If you do not have a cutter with the exact dimensions of the edge groove, then you can go through it several times with a cutter that has a smaller tooth height.

Stage 4

When the groove is ready, you can start filling the edging. To do this, the end is first coated silicone sealant. This will prevent water penetration. The sealant is applied to the upper edge of the edge. The edging itself is filled with a rubber mallet. The joint should be formed in the most inconspicuous place. When the padding is completed, it is important to make an accurate joining of the edge. There is no way to do this without a sharp knife. After this, you will need to remove the excess sealant that was formed when driving in the edging along the entire perimeter of the tabletop.

When securing tabletops using clamps, it is important to use special spacers. They are installed on the protruding edges of the edge and prevent their damage.

Stage 5

At the final stage, the legs are secured. To do this, you should attach the molded holders to the underside of the tabletop. To ensure that they are at the same distance, mark with a pencil. The leg should be at a distance of up to 10 cm from the edge. This holder is secured with 2.5 cm long self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. Now all that remains is to commit finishing touch: Secure the legs in the holder with a hex key. Dinner table ready for the kitchen!

As you can see, the postforming table top is very simple and, most importantly, accessible to homemade at home. To do this you need to have basic carpentry tools. But here we should also remember the dangers. If handled carelessly, there is a risk of breaking the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you use this table carefully, it will last for many years.

The choice is yours

We have looked at several options for how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its production. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and ingenuity.

Video

This video shows an example of making a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balusters are skillfully used as legs:

A feature of the layout of most apartments of a typical 20th century building: a small area of ​​​​the premises, especially the kitchen (even if the apartment is multi-room). Under such conditions, ideal solution, allowing you to avoid unnecessary cluttering of furniture in an already cramped space - increase functionality main pieces of furniture. If in the living room it can be a sofa that can be extended if necessary to seat a certain number of guests, then in the kitchen such an object is a table. For a large family living in an apartment with a regular layout, an extendable dining table is an indispensable attribute of the interior: in its normal state it takes up quite a bit of space - and when extended, it can accommodate a large number of eaters behind its tabletop.

Advantages of an extendable table if you made it yourself

Nowadays (with the choice of various materials and furniture fittings, which are offered by specialized stores), making an extendable table yourself is much more profitable: the cost of the table is cheaper, and the design, including custom sizes, everyone can choose for themselves. Agree - it’s nice if in your kitchen there is a table that exists in a single copy!

The design of wooden sliding tables has been known for a long time. If previously all the parts were made of wood, and only a high-class carpenter could make a good extendable table, today even a beginner can make such furniture - thanks to commercially available mechanisms made of durable metal.

Having the simplest skills in working with basic tools: an electric drill, a jigsaw, a screwdriver, you can easily make a table of the shape and size you need. To do this, we suggest you use several simple examples of sliding tables.

General principles The manufacture of such tables is the same for any DIY product:

  1. Determining the dimensions of the future product;
  2. Drawing up a design drawing (or making changes to an existing drawing);
  3. Acquisition of basic and finishing materials, fasteners and accessories;
  4. Cutting of structural elements, intermediate finishing of surfaces of parts;
  5. Assembly of the structure;
  6. Finishing.

Moreover, the first and last points of the algorithm are individual for each case, and it makes no sense to describe them in detail. Detailed instructions for the remaining stages are given in the proposed descriptions.

Option 1. Making an extendable table - a “minute” of the simplest design

The table is called “Minute” because it requires a minimum of time to make.

The table has a height of 735 mm, tabletop: minimum size - 1200x800 mm, maximum - 1670x800 mm.

We will need:

  • Laminated chipboard sheets 25mm thick: 600x800 mm – 2 pcs., 470x800 mm – 1 pc.;
  • Full extension telescopic guides, 500 mm long – 2 pcs. (Fig. 1);

  • Leg for kitchen table with flange (710mm) – 4 pcs.;
  • Aluminum corner with edge 50mm – 2 meters;
  • Frog-type latch lock – 4 pcs. (Fig. 2);

  • M4 screws 10 mm long and nuts for them (the nuts must have a stopper) – 16 pcs.

Manufacturing the main element - the sliding mechanism of the table

  1. Cut the corner into 4 parts, grind off the sharp corners of the side edges, as shown in Fig. 3;

  1. Separate the telescopic guides into two parts - a narrow bar and a wide blade, attach each part to the corners to obtain the structure shown in Fig. 4;

  1. Repeat the process with the remaining two corners and the second “telescope”.

Table assembly

  1. Place both parts of the tabletop together;
  2. Install the corners on the back side of the tabletop (Fig. 5);

  1. Install latches on the sliding parts (Fig. 6, a);
  2. Move the tabletop apart, opening the locks, and insert the removable part;
  3. Install parts of the latches on the tabletop liner so that all parts of the tabletop can be firmly fixed (Fig. 6, b);

  1. We screw the legs to the tabletop - the table is ready!

As you can see, make an extendable table simplest design easy and doesn't take much time.

Some inconvenience of this design is the removable part of the tabletop: this table does not provide space for storing it, so it is put away in the closet until the next “influx” of guests.

The next option will help you make an extendable round table that eliminates this inconvenience.

Option 2. Making a round sliding table with a folding insert

You will need:

  1. Laminated chipboard 25 mm thick
    • For table top – 850x850 mm – 1 sheet; for the liner - 850x 370 mm;
    • For a false tabletop – 600x600 mm – 1 sheet;
    • For the underframe: 4 pieces of 100x575mm planks and 2 120x600mm planks (18mm chipboard).
  2. Legs – bars 60x60x710 mm;
  3. Telescopic guides 250 mm – 4 pcs., swivel mounts(Fig. 7) – 2 pcs. and hidden end hinges (180 degrees) -3 pcs., as well as stops for the folded insert;

  1. Furniture corners, confirmations, screws, wooden dowels.

Manufacturing of elements round table:

  1. We cut out the tabletop. There are several ways to make the perfect round table top. The first of them is to make a pattern from ordinary Whatman paper, drawing a circle with a large compass, or using a simple device (Fig. 8a), and then begin sawing along its contour.

We propose to do it a little simpler: assemble a sawing “compass” from a jigsaw or an angular circular saw (depending on what you have) - you can use it repeatedly.

For such a “compass” you will actually need cutting tool, tape measure, drill, 3-4 self-tapping screws and a meter-long plywood strip. The width of the rack is equal to the length of the tool sole (see Figure 8c, this is what the entire structure looks like).

The solution of such a compass can be changed in the range from 20 cm to 1 meter (accordingly, the diameter of the cut tabletop can be from 40 cm to 2 meters). It is very easy to use, the cut is clean, and the circle is perfectly even: at a distance of 425 mm from the cutting blade (disc or file), we drill a hole, use a self-tapping screw to attach the structure to the material being cut - the compass is ready, all that remains is to push the tool forward evenly, and he himself will move along the desired trajectory.

Important! It is better not to cut out the tabletop from the front side - the mark from the self-tapping screw in the center will spoil the appearance.

The tool must be moved slowly and without jerking, otherwise you can get uneven chips on the chipboard surface (if you are using a saw, it is better to gradually increase the depth of cut).

  1. Divide the tabletop in half. To divide it into two equal parts, you need to draw a straight line through the center of the circle (diameter), and then carefully saw the tabletop along this mark.
  1. Apply end tape to all sections. It must be said that it comes in two types - melamine (made of paper with a special coating) and more expensive (but also of higher quality) plastic edge ABS.

Melamine edging tape is produced with a layer of hot-melt adhesive already applied to it (glued using regular iron).

However, to achieve more high-quality coating, before gluing the tape, it is advisable to putty and sand the sections - and only after that start gluing the tape.


The tape is applied to the end of the chipboard, pressed with the sole of the iron and kept for some time (so that the glue melts under the influence of temperature). Then, having removed the iron, it is advisable to press the tape with your hand (after placing a cotton fabric folded in several layers on it). Cut off excess tape with a sharp spatula or knife - while doing this, try not to damage the cut corners!

ABS edge- more durable, however, it does not stick so easily. For edging with ABS tape, glue is required (as a rule, manufacturers recommend the most suitable one). Moreover: when removing excess glue that has protruded beyond the edge of the tape, a solvent can damage the laminated chipboard surface– this requires special care and practice.

  1. We cut the part intended for the liner into 2 parts 425x370mm, and also cover all the ends with tape. Connecting the parts of the liner hidden hinges like a book.
  2. In the false tabletop, exactly in the middle, we cut out a hole 430x4400 mm - we cover the end parts of the hole with the same tape (Fig. 9).

The table is assembled in stages:
Stage 1: underframe with false tabletop (diagram 1);

Stage 2: assembly of the structure sliding table(scheme 2);

An oval-shaped folding kitchen table is perfect for those who like to have dinner with the whole family and occasionally receive guests. It's pretty easy to make yourself. Self-made furniture is distinguished by its original design and the ability to take into account individual needs determined by the characteristics of the room and the taste of the owners of the house.

Why an oval table?

An oval-shaped folding dining table is good because it has rounded corners. This avoids “unpleasant encounters” and is especially appreciated by those who have small children at home. Oval shape assumes the location of the table in the center of the room. However, if necessary, you can place such a table near the kitchen corner.

Preparing for work

Before starting work you must:

  1. Determine the dimensions of the future table.
  2. Make sketches and drawings of the design of the product and its individual parts.
  3. Choice of tabletop material and supports.
  4. Calculate required amount materials.
  5. Purchase materials, fasteners and accessories.

Determining the size and shape of the table

The size of the product depends on the area of ​​the kitchen and the number of people that need to be placed at the table. The optimal solution for a medium-sized kitchen there will be a folding dining table measuring 120x80 cm (folded), consisting of two parts with dimensions of 60x80 cm each.

It would be correct to draw a sketch of the future product to scale in order to understand what ratio of the width and length of the table will allow you to maintain a beautiful rounded shape even when unfolded, as well as the size suitable for a particular kitchen.

For a kitchen of this size, a folding oval dining table measuring 120x80 cm is suitable if placed with kitchen corner. If you place the table in the center of the room, access to the cabinets will be difficult kitchen set And household appliances. When receiving guests, you can place it in the middle of the kitchen.

The optimal length of the dining table top for a comfortable seating for one person is 60 cm. The sketch shows that an extendable table measuring 120x80 cm is perfect for four to six people (six will fit behind it if you move the table to the center of the kitchen). When unfolded, this table can seat up to 8 people. If you need a folding dining table for more guests, you can increase the size of the insert or make two identical ones.

Execution of drawings

Required following drawings and sketches (option with a tabletop of two parts measuring 60x80 cm and one insert measuring 40x80 cm):

  • drawing of the parts of the main tabletop, to determine the desired shape of the table and the corresponding rounding radius;

Tabletop made of two parts, size 60×80 cm, rounding radius 20 cm

Tabletop made of two parts, size 60×80 cm, rounding radius 30 cm

Tabletop made of two parts, size 60×80 cm, rounding radius 40 cm

  • insert drawing 80x40 cm;
  • sketch of the tabletop in an extended form;
  • for tables with a drawer (underframe) drawing of drawer parts.

The specified dimensions of the drawer parts are suitable for a folding dining table measuring 120×80 cm in the shifted position. It is necessary to make two parts each with dimensions 80×12 cm and 40×12 cm.

Selection of materials

Details of the folding kitchen table:

  • tabletop and inserts for it;
  • supports (legs);
  • king;
  • edge (for tables made of chipboard and MDF);
  • sliding mechanism;
  • tabletop clamps;
  • fasteners.

For making tabletops folding table You can use wood, chipboard, MDF, natural stone and glass. Chipboard and MDF can be either laminated or coated with plastic. The thickness of the tabletop can be from 18 to 48 mm (sometimes more).

A natural stone- the most durable, moisture- and heat-resistant material. But this material has a significant disadvantage: it is quite expensive. As an alternative, you can use a countertop made of chipboard or MDF, decorated with ceramic tiles.

When choosing the color and thickness of the countertop, you must take into account the design of the remaining furnishings in the kitchen, especially the thickness and texture of the kitchen countertop.

The legs can be made from the same material as the tabletop, or you can purchase ready-made metal supports. They come in two types: for tables with a drawer and for tables without drawers.

The drawer can also be made from the same material as the table top, or from any other material suitable in thickness and texture.

The following edges are used to process laminated chipboard and MDF sections:

The most budget-friendly and least practical option is melamine edge, it is the thinnest and is a paper strip with a density of 120-130 g per square meter. m. Its thickness is 0.1 mm.

The PVC edge differs from it in its greater thickness and wear resistance.

The ABS edge is made of plastic and is characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to external influences.

Acrylic edge is often called 3D edge due to its “3D” effect. This is the most advantageous option, in terms of appearance.

PVC, ABS and acrylic edges have a thickness of 0.4 to 2 mm. Depending on the thickness of the tabletop and other parts of the product, a suitable edge width is selected, which ranges from 18 to 55 mm. There are types of edges on sale with an already applied adhesive layer.

Sliding mechanisms for folding tables are of three types according to the method of fastening:

  • for frameless tables;
  • for internal fastening to the drawer;
  • For external fastening to the king.

According to the method of sliding, there are two types of mechanisms: synchronous and non-synchronous. In the first case, the tabletop parts move apart simultaneously, in the second, separately.

When purchasing, you need to take into account the length of the non-expanded mechanism and the maximum size of the inserts (these parameters should be indicated in the characteristics of the mechanism).

For a folding table without drawers measuring 120×80 cm in a folded state with two inserts of 40 or 50 cm, a mechanism 98 cm long with maximum size inserts 50 cm (48/980/T2S).

To secure the tabletop, you will additionally need special locks. Their number depends on how many inserts the table has.

Calculation of required materials

Based on the completed drawings you need to calculate:

  • the total area of ​​all table parts made of wood, chipboard or MDF;
  • edge footage, for tables made of chipboard and MDF.

For a frameless table with a tabletop made of two parts Chipboard size 60x80 cm each and one insert 40 cm wide will require: 1.3 sq. m. Chipboard, 9 m edges (with reserve), 4 metal supports, sliding mechanism, 4 tabletop clamps, dowels and screws.

Table manufacturing process

  1. Cut out the table parts according to the drawings and cut them out.
  2. Cover the cuts with an edge.
  3. Assemble the table.
  4. Finish finishing.

Tools:

  • large ruler or tape measure;
  • pencil;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • milling cutter;
  • belt sander;
  • drill;
  • iron or hair dryer.

Uncover

Chipboard and MDF can be purchased in the form of sheets (boards) of a certain size. The minimum dimensions of a sheet of chipboard or MDF are 244x120 cm. From the above calculation it can be seen that to make an oval sliding kitchen table measuring 120x80 cm (160x80 in the extended position) you will need one such sheet.

Examples of cutting chipboard sheets for an oval sliding kitchen table

The main tabletop will consist of two parts measuring 60x80 cm. It will be complemented by one part measuring 40x80 cm. The remaining material can be used to make stools and the result will be a wonderful set for the kitchen.

You can cut out the parts using a jigsaw; the roundings are done with a milling machine.

Edge banding

First, you need to carefully treat all the sections with sealant (silicone), let them dry, and then you can start gluing with edges. To do this, use an iron or a hair dryer.

It is necessary to first clean the cuts from wood dust. Then apply the edge so that it completely covers the cut (the width of the edge should be greater than the thickness of the tabletop). Turn on the iron and set the “synthetic” mode. Place newspaper between the iron and the cut and begin to heat the edge. After it begins to stick, smooth the finished area with a cloth and move the iron further. You need to smooth it until the edge cools down.

If the edge does not have its own adhesive layer, then you can use any universal glue. In this case, the cut surface should be smooth and free of dust. Glue must be applied to both the edge and the end and glue them together, while smoothing them with a roller or cloth. Instead of a cloth and a roller, you can use wooden block, covered with felt.

After completing the work, you need to carefully check whether there are any loose fragments. Then you need to chip off the edge protruding beyond the edges, remove any remaining glue and sand the edges with sandpaper.

Better adhesion can be achieved using construction hair dryer. A stream of air with a temperature of 200 degrees should be directed only at adhesive layer. Well-heated glue should protrude from under the edge. Excess glue can be removed only after complete drying.

Table assembly

The assembly is performed in the following sequence:

  • Place the halves of the main tabletop together.
  • Attach a sliding mechanism to them.

  • Install the tabletop clamps.

  • Spread the halves of the main tabletop and insert the removable part.
  • Attach the clamps to the insert so that when pulled apart, their parts coincide with the corresponding parts of the main tabletop.

  • Screw the legs to the tabletop.

To do this, we apply markings with a pencil on the back side of the tabletop to determine where to attach the legs. Optimal distance from the edge of the tabletop to the leg is 10 cm. On the ray connecting the center of the circle along which the tabletop was rounded with its edge, we retreat from the cut of the tabletop 13 cm (10 cm + 3 cm radius of the leg) and put a point. This point will coincide with the center of the support.

The table is one of the main attributes of the kitchen. Today, kitchen tables are made from the most different materials and different in design.

The table can be very small or large and roomy, if the size of the room allows.

Making a kitchen table with your own hands is not difficult; it only requires a little time and desire.

Kitchen table options

Kitchen tables vary in purpose:

  • working kitchen table;
  • bar counter.

Materials from which a kitchen table can be made:

  • tree;
  • plywood, chipboard, chipboard, MDF, OSB;
  • glass;
  • metal;
  • plastic;
  • stone.

Adherents of the classics in the interior prefer wood as the most wear-resistant, durable and beautiful material. Perfect with chrome legs.

Extendable kitchen table

Materials and tools

Materials required for making an extendable table:

  • Laminated chipboard (thickness not less than 18 mm);
  • PVC edge 0.4 mm and 2 mm;
  • block 40 x 40 mm, length 710 mm;
  • mechanism for automatically lifting the insert;
  • self-tapping screws, metal corner 30 x 30 mm;
  • dowels 10 mm;
  • varnish or other paint material(to match the laminated chipboard countertop);
  • PVA glue (or wood glue);
  • piano loop – 1 pc.;
  • plywood (thickness not less than 20 mm);
  • guides for synchronous rollout, length 300 mm – 2 pcs.

Note: Instead of a mechanism for synchronously extending the tabletop, you can use simple full rollout guides. If there is a need to install not one, but two or three inserts, then accordingly the mechanism for them needs to be purchased differently.


Tools:
  • pencil, square, meter;
  • jigsaw;
  • iron;
  • screwdriver;
  • medium and fine grit sandpaper;
  • brushes for varnish and glue.

Manufacturing stages

First of all, we draw and cut out electric jigsaw all necessary parts are made of plywood and chipboard. The cutting must be precise because all parts of the tabletop must fit tightly together.

The dimensions of the finished table are 900 x 700 mm and 1300 x 700 mm.

Blanks for an extendable table:

  • bars 710 x 40 x 40 mm – 4 pcs.;
  • laminated chipboard tabletop 700 x 450 mm – 2 pcs.;
  • laminated chipboard insert 700 x 400 mm – 1 pc.

Take into account: the insert can be solid or consist of two parts, which are fastened together with piano hinges.


For decorative cladding mechanisms are used:
  • side part of the table laminated chipboard (box) 420 x 120 mm – 4 pcs.;
  • laminated chipboard box end 600 x 120 mm – 2 pcs.;
  • plywood 498 x 120 mm – 4 pcs. and 830 x 120 mm – 2 pcs.

Step 1. After the cut is made, we proceed to processing the legs - bars and plywood. We process them with medium-grain sandpaper and cover them with varnish or any other material. After complete drying (at least 8–10 hours), the surface and especially the edges are treated with fine-grained sandpaper. Apply a second layer of varnish and wait for it to dry completely.

Step 2. PVC edge We glue 2 mm on the outer side parts of the table top - 3 sides of each part of the sliding table top. The top and bottom of the insert are pasted over. All other side parts are covered with a 0.4 mm PVC edge. To paste, sand the side parts, apply an edge and heat the area with an iron through a sheet of paper. As soon as the edge sags a little, it is stuck. Immediately remove the iron and smooth the surface with a soft cloth. We remove the lateral excess part of the edge using a metal ruler.

Step 3. For table top installation sliding mechanism we chose the standard size – 670 mm / 1330 mm. Fold the tabletop, consisting of three parts, face down. Then, using self-tapping screws, we attach the mechanism to the tabletop. In accordance with the instructions for assembling the mechanism, we attach all the wooden parts to it. For beauty, you can cover the mechanism with a box made of plywood and chipboard.

Step 4. We attach the legs made of bars to the tabletop using metal corners. Before fastening, prepare a 5 mm hole in the center of each leg. We drill the same holes in the table, 5 mm long. We grease one side of the dowels with PVA glue (or any wood glue) and insert them into the holes in the legs. When the glue dries, you can coat the other side with glue and insert the legs into the tabletop, removing excess glue from the surface of the tabletop.

Finishing and decor

A tabletop made of laminated materials does not require additional finishing. Wooden parts The table should be varnished.

Decorating is an excellent solution if you are not satisfied with the appearance of the surface for some reason or, for example, when restoring a kitchen dining table with your own hands.

There are many ways to make a table unique, memorable and elegant, including:

    • Decoration is carried out using rice paper, ordinary multi-layer napkins or other materials that have several paper layers and a pattern. Pieces of paper are placed on a flat, grease-free surface and blotted with decoupage glue (or PVA diluted with water);

    • Drawing using a stencil. Can be used as a stencil various materials: lace, paper, mesh, etc. It is applied to the surface to be decorated and patterns are applied with contrasting color paint using a spray can, brush or roller;

    • Craquelure. Artificial aging of the table surface. To do this, apply varnish to the surface, then apply it on top, without waiting for it to dry. thin layer egg white or PVA glue. This mixture creates small cracks in the paint on the surface, creating an antique effect;

  • Artistic painting and burning. These decoration methods are used less frequently than others, as they require certain skills.

When choosing a decoration method, you should keep in mind that several layers of paint or varnish can interfere with the normal folding of the tabletop parts. The coating will quickly become damaged and will have to be removed. Therefore, if you absolutely want to decorate your kitchen, you should take into account in advance, at the design and assembly stages, that the thickness of the countertop will increase by a couple of millimeters.

How to make a kitchen table with your own hands, watch the video: