Technology for laying flexible bitumen shingles - a step-by-step guide. Flexible tiles: roof installation technology Soft tiles hemisphere installation technology
The article contains information about the technology of roof covering with bitumen shingles. The construction of a roof made of soft tiles, the technology of laying bitumen shingles and the nuances were disassembled installation process. Having assimilated the information received, you will know what and in what sequence the masters will do and ask the right questions, which will show that you understand the topic.
Roof covered with soft tiles Source 999.md
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Lathing for soft tiles
You need to start by disassembling the sheathing. Since bitumen shingles are a flexible and thin material, when placed on any plane, it exactly repeats all its shapes. Therefore, installation flexible roofing carried out only on a solid sheathing, assembled either from boards, or from sheet or slab materials, for example, from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.
The plank sheathing is laid on the roof rafter system, leaving a gap of 1 cm between the boards. This is the so-called compensation gap in case of moisture and temperature expansion of the lumber.
Plywood and OSB boards are laid on a sparse sheathing of boards 20-25 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The installation step of the boards depends on the size of the sheets or slabs being laid. For example, if 125x125 mm plywood is chosen for a continuous sheathing, then the installation step of the sheathing elements should be within 70 cm. The edges of the sheet of plywood should lie on the two outer boards, and there should be another one between them. That is, the plywood sheet should lie on at least three boards.
Solid plank sheathing Source krysha-expert.ru
And two important points:
a gap of 1 cm is left between the laid slabs or sheets;
The panels are laid with an offset of half the element, thus achieving uniform distribution of loads on all sheets (slabs).
Flexible tile installation technology
Like all construction processes, laying bitumen shingles is divided into two stages: preparation, and direct installation of the roofing material.
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer roofing services of any complexity. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Preparatory work
The first preparatory operation is the installation of a drip. This element, made of painted galvanized steel sheet, is a corner up to 3 m long. The width of each shelf varies between 15-25 cm. The purpose of the drip edge is to strengthen the eaves overhang and create conditions under which water flowing from the roof does not get under the sheathing .
The drip line is secured to the sheathing with roofing nails, which are driven into the top shelf in a checkerboard pattern every 15 cm. Adjacent planks are installed overlapping each other with an offset of at least 3 cm.
Installation of under-roof (lining) carpet
First, what is under-roof carpet? This roll material from the category of bitumen-polymer. It is laid on the crate so that:
Correct minor defects in the sheathing laid on the rafters.
Increase the waterproofing qualities of the roofing covering.
Prevent condensation from forming on wood flooring.
So, the technology of laying soft tiles on the roof begins with the installation of roofing material. First of all, it is laid in strips on valleys and cornices. But we must start with the valleys. The lining material has a width of 1 m, so it is laid out so that it covers the slopes from the valley on both sides of 50 cm. Moreover, this type of material is self-adhesive, so the sheathing under it is not treated with adhesives.
Lining material laid on the valley Source gorizont-k.ru
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses in which ventilated facade technology was used - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Then the covering is laid on the overhangs along the cornice. In this case, the vertical hanging shelf of the dropper is covered halfway. Next, cover the remaining open area of the roof slope with rolled material. Here are a few nuances:
strips of under-roof carpet are laid on already laid ones (on the cornice and on the valley) so that the horizontal joints overlap by 10 cm, vertical joints by 15;
Galvanized nails are driven into each laid strip in places where they overlap, that is, the heads of the fasteners must remain under the edge of the adjacent strip, the fastener spacing is 20-25 cm;
strips of lining carpet, which cover the main part of the slope, are laid perpendicular to the eaves and ridge of the roof, starting from the bottom, rolling the roll up;
each strip is secured around the perimeter with nails;
to improve the sealing of joints, the edges of the strips are coated bitumen mastic.
Laying lining material on the roof slope Source eltctricon.ru
After the under-roof carpet has been completely laid, the pediment strips are installed. They cover the edges of the laid material along the slope and will subsequently prevent moisture from penetrating under it. The installation of the planks is carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of cornice elements.
Now it is necessary to strengthen the waterproofing qualities of the valley, because this element is subject to the greatest loads from rain and melting snow. For this purpose, a valley carpet is used - a roll-type material made on the basis of a rubber-bitumen composition, reinforced with a polyester mesh. It is matched to the color of the bitumen shingles.
It is simply laid out on the valley, gluing it to the lining carpet with bitumen mastic, which is applied under the edges of the material 10 cm wide. An additionally laid strip is pierced along the edges with roofing nails. The step between fasteners is 20-25 cm, the distance from the edges of the strip is 3 cm.
Installation of bitumen shingles
The preparatory stage of installing a roof from flexible tiles completed. You can proceed directly to laying the roofing material itself. The first operation at this stage is the installation of the starting tiles.
In principle, it makes no difference where to start laying (from the middle of the cornice or from the edge). But experts recommend starting installation from the middle for long cornices. This makes it easier to level the starting line horizontally.
What is a starting line? This is the same ordinary tile with the petals cut off. Although many manufacturers produce a universal element that covers the roof eaves and its ridge.
The starting strip is laid along the eaves, 1.5-2 cm away from the edge of the overhang. At the same time, its edges must cover the gable strips. This element is a self-adhesive material. But it must be pierced with roofing nails in the corners and along the perimeter every 20 cm, departing 2-3 cm from the edges of the strip. If ordinary tiles are used for the starting strip, on the back side of which there is no adhesive composition, then the laid underlay carpet under the installation site of the strip must be coated with bitumen mastic.
Installation of the starting strip Source eltctricon.ru
Installation of ordinary tiles
The main requirement for laying the first row of soft tiles is a distance of 1 cm from the bottom edge of the underlayment. An important requirement is the correct nailing of the material. Fastener should not cut into the roofing material, it should press it against the sheathing. Therefore, you cannot nail it too hard or do it obliquely.
In this case, each bitumen shingle is nailed with four nails. The place of hammering is 2.5 cm from the upper edges of the petals. This is done so that the nail heads remain under the soft tile roofing element laid on top. If the angle of the roof slope is more than 45°, then the roofing material is pierced with six nails.
Now, regarding the layout of ordinary tiles. It all depends on the model of the material used. Eg:
the “Jazz” model is laid regardless of the location of the petals;
the “Trio” and “Sanata” models are mounted with an offset of half the petal.
Laying and fastening ordinary tiles Source eltctricon.ru
Valley design
First of all, they form a valley zone into which nails cannot be driven. This is a distance of 30 cm in each direction from the valley axis. This is the most vulnerable place, where the accumulation of water is always large. Therefore, making any holes in this area is prohibited.
But the tiles themselves are laid, covering the valley area with a small gap of 5 cm. Only in areas where nails cannot be used, bitumen mastic is used. Therefore, these areas are treated with it, applying a width of 10 cm, and the tiles are laid.
Pediment decoration
The technology is the same here:
installation is carried out so that there is a gap of 1 cm from the edge of the laid plank to the roofing material;
flexible tiles are glued to the base and metal strip with mastic and at the same time secured with nails.
Connection to the pipe
Chimneys and ventilation pipes are elements that are required on roofs. The most dangerous area is the junction of these pipes with roofing material, so it must be hermetically sealed.
To do this, make a pattern from valley material or sheet iron coated with protective paint. But first, the walls of the pipes are covered around the perimeter with sheet iron, which is attached to the pipes with self-tapping screws. The height of such a plinth should be 30 cm.
A strip 50 cm wide is cut out of the valley carpet. It is laid near the pipes so that it covers the baseboard (30 cm) and the laid bitumen shingles (20 cm). The method of fastening the strip is bitumen mastic.
Important point. First, close the lower side of the pipe (meaning the lower one along the slope), then two side ones with an approach to the bottom, and finally the top one with an approach to the sides.
Next, lay the tiles themselves, coating the laid valley material with mastic. The tiles are laid on the sides of the pipe so that they do not reach 8 cm from the pipe. All that remains is to mount the metal strips, which are installed so that a canopy is formed over the walls of the pipe. Therefore, the shape of the slats is Z-shaped. A groove is placed on the pipe, into which the upper shelf of the element is recessed. The strips are attached to the pipe itself with self-tapping screws. After which the groove joint is filled with silicone sealant.
Covering the baseboard with a valley carpet and bitumen shingles Source bouw.ru
Sealing roof penetrations
Small pipes and antennas create joints in the roofing pie, through which water can penetrate under the roof structure. When constructing a roof from soft tiles, it is necessary to take into account these passages. To seal them, special rubber caps are used. They are laid so that their lower edge extends 2 cm onto the laid tiles. A mark is made on the lining carpet where it is necessary to cut a through hole for the passage.
Cut a hole with a jigsaw.
Bitumen mastic is applied to the back of the cap.
The cap is placed in place.
They secure it with roofing nails, punching it around the perimeter.
A layer of mastic is applied on top of the cap skirt.
Installation of soft tiles is carried out.
The joint between the roofing material and the cap is filled with sealant, which is sprinkled with stone pavement on top.
Skate decoration
To cover the roof ridge, a universal element is used, which was used as a starting strip. It is simply cut into three parts, each part is laid crosswise along the ridge, with the edges hanging from each slope, and nailed to the sheathing with roofing nails. Lay the cut out parts from bottom to top along the inclined edge of the ridge with an overlap of 3 cm. In order for the cut out parts to bend well along the ridge, it is recommended to warm them up a little with a hair dryer.
How to cover a ridge with soft tiles Source yandex.ru
To ensure roof ventilation, special ridge elements are used, the design of which has slots or holes. Through the latter, air outflows from under roofing structure.
The ventilation element is installed along the ridge, secured to the sheathing with nails, and then bitumen shingles are glued on top.
Video description
How to properly install bitumen shingles on a roof in the video:
Video description
For information about mistakes in installing bituminous shingles, watch the following video:
Conclusion on the topic
So, the soft tile roof is ready. No further operations will be required. The main task of the work manufacturer is to strictly follow the instructions that come with the roofing material. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there are certain additions or changes in the technology being carried out for each model of tiles. They are also indicated in the instructions.
Roofing made from flexible tiles is distinguished by its aesthetic appearance and durability. However, neither one nor the other can be achieved if the installation technology is broken. We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions for laying flexible tiles.
Installation of tiles
1. Installation of the base
Requires a level and solid base. The plank flooring of the roof structure must be durable, dry, level and well ventilated from the inside. It can be made from moisture-resistant plywood or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB-3). The flooring can also be made from 25 mm thick edged boards tightly fitted to each other, but it is better to use moisture-resistant oriented strand boards (OSP-3) or FSF brand plywood as often as possible. In both cases, 3-5 mm thick gaps must be made between the sheets to compensate for wood deformations. Thickness sheet material The slopes of the slopes are chosen based on the pitch of the sheathing boards, but in any case it should be at least 9 mm.
Pay attention to the shade - it may differ slightly in different packs, therefore, in order to create a color balance on the roof, shingles from 4-7 packs are mixed with each other. It is better to install the roof in dry weather with a minimum ambient temperature of up to + 5 degrees. If this is not possible, then the roof for flexible tiles is prepared in advance: the shingles are kept in a warm room for about a day after transportation. And at the stage of fastening the shingles, it is best to feed the bundles also from warm room, approximately 5-6 packs each, and during the process of attaching the shingles, it is better to warm up the adhesive layer with a hair dryer.
2. Fastening the eaves boards
Cornice boards suffer from moisture, but gutters are usually attached to them. Strengthen and protect the eaves with a special metal strip. The cornice is reinforced with painted metal cornice strips. They are attached to the plank flooring with special roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern - in increments of 12-15 cm. The overlap of the planks should be 30-50 mm.
3. Selecting underlay carpet
The carpet is made from two types of material. In the valleys and on the cornices, a self-adhesive underlay carpet with a very durable polyester rot-resistant base and a fine-grained sand topping is used.
Along the internal fractures of the roof (valleys), a valley carpet should be laid on top of the lining carpet; With back side its edges need to be coated with mastic to a width of about 10 cm.
The rest of the area can be included in easy work lining material with a base made of rot-resistant polyester and a non-slip polypropylene coating, or a material with a fiberglass base and double-sided coating with mechanical fixation and adhesive layer in places of horizontal overlaps.
4. Laying underlay carpets
Due to the capillary effect and under the influence of wind, moisture can seep under the coating. For additional sealing, use self-adhesive (at the eaves overhangs) and fixed with nails (on the rest of the roof area) lining carpets.
The lining carpet is made from a special roll material. It makes it more airtight and will be better if it is laid over the entire roof area. The carpet is rolled out horizontally, from the eaves overhang with horizontal overlaps of at least 10 cm. It is important to take into account that on this overhang the material should deviate from the bend by 1-2 cm (for an average roof). The width of the indentation depends on the length and angle of inclination of the slope itself.
Entrances to the cornice and gable, as well as overlapping areas, are coated with bitumen mastic using a spatula. The thickness of the mastic is no more than 1 mm. At the end of the installation, the rolled material is carefully fixed at the edges with roofing nails with a wide head. Step - 20-25 cm.
5. Strengthening the gable overhang
The gable part of the roof needs protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, wind, and mechanical influences.
To do this, painted metal end strips are attached to the gable overhangs, on top of the underlayment, which are coated during the process of laying the tiles themselves. TO load-bearing structure Roof strips are fastened with roofing nails in 10-15 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.
6. Valley device
The valley, as is known, has a concave corner that collects the most amount of moisture, therefore correct installation roofing pie it is in this place that will largely ensure the reliable operation of the building.
Let's consider the so-called “open” method of installing a valley. On top of the lining carpet, along the axis of the valley, a special roofing material is laid - a valley carpet, for example, from TechnoNIKOL. Along the perimeter of the back side it is coated with bitumen mastic to a width of 10-12 cm.
On the front side, the carpet is nailed with roofing nails at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge. Fastening pitch: 20-25 cm.
7. Laying tiles
For convenience, before installing a roof made of flexible tiles and maintaining the required geometry on the underlayment, make horizontal and vertical markings.
In this case, the vertical lines should correspond to the width of one sheet, the horizontal lines - about 80 cm, this is approximately five rows of flexible tiles. Please note that the markings are simply a guide and not a mounting diagram.
- Laying begins horizontally along the cornice. The first strip is made using universal ridge-eaves tiles. You can also use an ordinary one from the selected collection, but you will need to cut off the tile “petals” from the shingles.
- The sheets are glued from the 1-2 cm bend of the cornice, and additionally nailed. If an ordinary trimmed version is used as a “start”, then the back side of the shingles must be coated with mastic where there is no adhesive layer.
- The second row is mounted from the center of the slope - offset to the left or right by half the “petal”.
- Next, the installation proceeds diagonally from the center of the slope in the form of a strip or pyramid. The elements are laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm with an adhesive layer. It is located on the back of the shingles. Additionally, the shingles are attached to the base of the roof using special galvanized nails with wide heads.
- On the side of the gable overhang, it is necessary to cut off the upper corner of the shingle to drain rainwater. The shingle itself should be moved back 2 cm relative to the overhang. This is necessary for free flow of water. Also, to protect it from slanting rain, it must be coated in the gable area with mastic to a depth of 10 cm.
8. Laying a tiled valley
When the laying process has reached the valley, then at this node the shingles of flexible tiles are laid in a chaotic order on top of the valley carpet, after which they are cut so that the central axis of the valley becomes open, 5-15 cm wide (see figure below).
When cutting, a board should be placed under the shingles to avoid damaging the underlying insulating materials. After that, the back areas of the sheets of flexible tiles, which do not have an adhesive layer at the junction with the valley, are coated with mastic. Each shingle is fixed with roofing nails in the upper part no closer than 30 cm from the axis of the valley.
9. Installation of slope ribs
The edges of the slopes are formed by shingles with special ridge-eaves tiles. Laying is done from bottom to top, and is attached to the base with four nails - two on each side.
10. Installing shingles
The shingles of the overlying row must be moved relative to the shingles of the underlying row by at least 15 cm. The shingles forming the roof joint are trimmed along the axis. Then a cut is made in the underlayment and the roof structure itself for the passage of air - at a certain interval and indentation from the edge of the roof.
11. Coating with aerator
In case the ridge is covered with a plastic roofing aerator. It will allow excess moisture to freely escape from the under-roof space. The aerator is covered with ridge-eaves tiles; each element is fixed with two nails. Laying should be done from the side opposite to the prevailing wind direction.
12. Installation of junctions
The junctions mainly include the joints of the roof slope with horizontal and inclined walls, as well as chimneys. At the junction of the slope and the wall, a wooden triangular strip is nailed onto which the junction element is placed. If it does, it needs to be plastered and covered with a bitumen primer, because a valley carpet is laid on the walls and on top of the flexible tiles - to a height of 30-50 cm. The entire rear area is covered with mastic. Sealing of smoke and ventilation pipes made from a valley carpet pattern. The upper part of the carpet is inserted into a groove and covered with a metal apron, followed by sealing.
There is one nuance here - the installation of the pattern must take into account the cascading nature of the water. Therefore, first they mount front part pattern, it extends 20 cm onto the ordinary tiles. The left, right and rear parts “go” under the tiles. The back pattern is mounted last.
The distance from the side and rear of the pipe is approximately 8 cm. All joints where there is no self-adhesive layer must be glued with mastic. If the pipe is wide - more than 50 cm, then a groove is made from the back.
13. Fastening penetrations
Antennas, ventilation pipes and others roofing elements are sealed with special passage elements resembling an apron, the lower edge of which is laid on top of a sheet suitable from below. Everything else is covered with shingles using mastic. Note that the passage element is pre-attached to the roofing base with nails.
If you have any questions before installation, we recommend watching the video instructions for installing TechnoNIKOL Shinglas multi-layer tiles.
- Material prepared by: Vladimir Grigoriev
How are bitumen shingles attached?
It is possible that you do not know how to fasten bitumen shingles. There are several options for attaching it.
Depending on the roofing base, you can use different methods fastening soft tiles.
There are few methods for fastening, but first things first.
Roofing nails
This is the most common type of fastening.
Roofing nails are used when the base for the roof is moisture resistant boards OSB, plywood coniferous species or a continuous sheathing made of wooden boards.
The roofing nail is used in those roofs where inside cladding and insulation will be carried out, as well as in sparsely populated places (for example, attic roofs) - where the numerous sharp stings of the tips of the nails do not pose a constant threat.
Nails are used to fasten row, starting and ridge tiles, underlayment, valley carpets, roof penetrations, etc.
Nail size
Roofing nails for flexible tiles are those with large heads Ø 8-12 mm. Also, for these nails the name “tar paper nails” is applicable. Their length reaches from 25 to 40 mm. The diameter of the nail rods is up to 3.2 mm.
It is best to use galvanized nails for installing bituminous shingles. Unlike ordinary steel nails, galvanized ones have a much longer service life, since they are less susceptible to corrosion processes.
The most affordable installation soft roof on nails is carried out using a hammer. To protect your fingers from lacerations, it is better to use a hammer with a round end of the striking part.
The nail must be driven so that the head of the nail is adjacent to the surface of the shingles. The nail is driven in perpendicularly (at an angle of 90º) to the plane of the under-roof base.
Nails that are not completely driven in prevent maximum adhesion of soft tiles and can, after some time, “climb out” from the under-roof base.
Nails driven too deeply leave a depression in the shingle, and the nail head punching through it can create a hole around the nail head. This directly affects the reliability of the fastening itself.
Nail consumption
Consumption of nails for bitumen shingles: per 100 sq.m. finished roof - 10 kg of nails. This amount takes into account the complete installation along with roofing components.
Fastening flexible tiles with nailer
You can also fasten the tiles using a tool such as a pneumatic nail hammer.
There are rack and drum nailers.
Nails for nailers are made of carbon steel. They are nickel plated. To fasten shingles, nailers must have large heads.
Self-tapping screws with press washer
Fastening with self-tapping screws with a press washer is less common, but in some cases there is no alternative to it.
The most common material for the roof base, where self-tapping screws with a press washer are used, is laminated plywood. It is usually used for gazebos and canopies, open enclosures and in other cases when the under-roof base is also a cladding on the inside of the roof.
It is difficult to drive nails into laminated plywood, and the plywood itself is subject to destruction.
Therefore, in such cases, it is correct to use self-tapping screws with a press washer to fasten flexible tiles. It is important that the length of the screws be less than the thickness of the plywood, so that their tips do not stick out in large numbers from the inside of the roof.
Also, self-tapping screws can be used when thin wooden lining or board, mounted on top of the roof frame or rafters. Hammered nails can cause the lining to prick and crack. Well, in order to prevent the nails from coming out and spoiling the view from below, they can be replaced with self-tapping screws with a short-length press washer. If, for example, the thickness of the lining is 20 mm, you can use screws 16 mm long.
The rules for fastening with self-tapping screws are the same as for nails.
Staples
Fastening bitumen shingles with staples is relevant and applicable for cases similar to fastening with self-tapping screws, with the only exception - the staples are difficult to drive into laminated plywood and bend. But lining, OSB and plywood, when they are used simultaneously as finishing the underside of the roof and the under-roof base, can be used.
Such buildings include gazebos, canopies, canopies, wells, doghouses and enclosures.
Do not staple flexible tiles onto the roofs of main buildings.(houses, attics, garages, bathhouses, etc.), since this is a very unreliable type of mechanical fastening.
Propane torch
And the last option - fixing asphalt shingles with a propane torch.
It is used when it is necessary to avoid nails.
As a rule, these are “forged visors” with metal frame, to which a metal sheet is welded or thin plywood or OSB-3 boards are screwed.
Torch fastening is applicable only for tile types with self-adhesive backing. These are the so-called single-layer types.
Fastening and, in part, fusing bitumen shingles with a burner is the most complex and time-consuming method of fastening, requiring professional skills in working not only with the burner, but also with soft tiles.
For domestic developers in recent decades, bitumen shingles have become the most attractive roofing material. It competes with varying degrees of success only with metal ones; piece ones are left far behind. roofing coverings, including slate.
The more knowledge you have about the material, the easier it is to understand certain requirements for installation technology. This will allow you to avoid many annoying mistakes during roof installation and significantly improve the quality and durability of the coating.
What are bituminous shingles made of?
| Layer name | Technical and operational parameters |
|---|---|
| Base | All top layers are applied to the base; it is made of durable fiberglass. It is not afraid of moisture, it can stretch a little without losing its original mechanical strength. The plasticity of fiberglass allows you to compensate for minor changes linear dimensions roofs. No need to be afraid of deflections rafter system or sheathing, vibrations between slopes and chimneys. But this does not mean that the rafter system can be unstable; we only mean cases of critical loads during various natural disasters. |
| Bitumen | Natural natural bitumen in modern coatings not used due to very low performance indicators. Over time, it hardens, loses elasticity, and through cracks appear in it. Another problem with simple bitumen is that it reacts very negatively to ultraviolet radiation. To improve physical performance, scientists have developed special additives; the material has become much more resistant to various natural and climatic factors. It is not afraid of UV rays, does not harden at subzero temperatures, etc. But bitumen shingles still cannot be installed at subzero temperatures. |
| Powder | Slate or basalt is used as a powder; to increase the surface area of individual particles, basalt rocks are crushed into granules and become rounded. Such forms adhere very tightly to the bitumen and crumble more slowly. The granulate performs two functions. The first is purely technical – protection of modified bitumen from sun rays and mechanical damage. The second is improving the external design appearance. |
Prices for various types and manufacturers of flexible tiles
On the market building materials There are a large number of domestic and foreign companies engaged in the production of flexible tiles. There are many types of coatings that differ not only in design, but also in design: technical characteristics base, the characteristics of the modified bitumen, the shape of the shingles, external protective and decorative coatings. Accordingly, the installation technology is slightly different, but for all types of bitumen shingles there are several general and mandatory rules.
Base
Soft roofs are installed only on continuous sheathing.
It can be made from OSB boards, plywood or thin edged boards. The last option is the most expensive and most problematic from a technology point of view, and is not recommended. As for plywood and OSB, they fully meet all the requirements, and the thickness is adjusted by the pitch of the sheathing.
Thanks to this approach, it is possible to influence the cost of the structure. For example, laying cheap thin slabs on cheap non- edged boards, and not expensive thick ones on expensive slats. One more nuance must be kept in mind. Many builders require that only waterproof types of plywood or OSB be purchased for continuous sheathing under soft tiles., although such materials are much more expensive than conventional ones. Why shouldn't you listen to their advice? Firstly, the sheathing should only withstand the load on the roof, and not protect it from leaks. Secondly, leaks must be eliminated immediately; no slabs will eliminate them. The sooner the roof is repaired, the longer the building will be in use. The durability and tightness of the roof in no way depends on the moisture resistance of the continuous sheathing.
Climatic conditions for installation
Most manufacturers claim that their soft tiles can be installed at an air temperature of +5°C. Need to know what it is minimum temperature, in which the adhesion indicators of bitumen mastics are at the minimum acceptable level, and it does not guarantee reliable fixation. In addition, the daytime temperature of +5°C most likely indicates that at night it dropped below zero. In such conditions, frost appears on the surface of the plywood or OSB, and on a cool day the moisture does not have time to dry completely. will arise big problems during sealing of places where chimneys, ventilation pipes and other utilities located on the roof meet the roof. There is no need to risk the quality of the coating; work only in dry and warm weather.
Additional materials
The quality of soft tile shingles affects the appearance and reliability of the coating on flat areas stingrays But leaks most often occur not on smooth slopes, but in junctions, valleys, etc. These places are sealed with special additional elements and materials; only high-quality products must be used. It is very important that all elements and main coatings are from the same manufacturer. In difficult places, it is better to play it safe than to rely on luck and try to simplify the technology recommended by the manufacturer.
Tools
The main rule for all professionals is that the tools must be in good condition and in complete set. To install soft tiles you will need a drill, spatula, paint brush, metal scissors, measuring tools and beating rope. It is advisable to have a special belt, it is much more convenient to work with it, that's all. necessary tools always at hand. Experienced builders know how much work time can be saved if everything needed for installation is within reach and in its place. If the installation technology involves hot gluing, then you need to have a hair dryer for heating.
Prices for the model range of pneumatic staplers
Pneumatic staplers
Coverage storage rules
Before installation begins, it is opened and shingles from different packs are mixed. The fact is that production technology does not allow making them completely identical in shades. external coverings, if they are not mixed evenly, then large multi-colored spots will be noticeable on the roof, which significantly worsens the appearance of the building.
Underlay carpets are stored in a vertical position.
Preparing the sheathing
In our case, a continuous lath made of OSB boards with a thickness of only 9 mm, to increase bearing capacity I had to reduce the pitch of the sheathing. If in the future it is planned to insulate the roof from the inside, then it is necessary to install wind protection and provide vents for natural ventilation. Prepare materials and tools, mix shingles from different packs.
Important. Never work on a roof without insurance. Especially if the sheathing is solid, there are no slats on it that can delay the fall. In the absence of special professional equipment You can use ordinary ropes and belts. We must remember that all safety regulations are written in someone’s blood.
The slabs need to arrive randomly, this increases the stability of the rafter system. For fixation, you can use ordinary nails (quick, durable and cheap) or self-tapping screws (long, expensive, but fashionable).
It is not necessary to fix the slabs using hardware made of stainless alloys; they are not affected by precipitation. The length of the nails must be at least 2/3 greater than the thickness of the materials being fastened.
But this statement is very controversial. Firstly, a slab firmly nailed with a large number of nails will not be able to expand freely; to do this, it must tear out the hardware. Secondly, it is protected by a lining and flexible tiles, which almost completely eliminates direct contact with water. Thirdly, if any leakage occurs, it will be local in nature and cannot wet the entire slab. Conclusion - there is no need to maintain any special gaps. They are there - great, no - not a problem. If according to technological reasons in some areas of the slab you need to press tightly - press. If you need to move it a little to the sides, let there be gaps.
Not experienced builders they do not know how to relate in practice the relationship between the thickness of the slab and the pitch of the sheathing. It's easy to do. Place two slats on the rafter legs at a distance of approximately 50 cm, with an OSB board on top. Press it with your hand with maximum force; if the surface sags, then reduce the pitch of the sheathing; if not, then you can increase it. There is no need to make long and complex calculations; the parameters are determined in just a few minutes.
Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)
OSB (oriented strand board)
Laying valleys and underlay carpet
The laying of soft tiles begins with these operations. There is no big difference in the technology of installation of coatings from different manufacturers and price categories. If you fully understand one type of roofing, then you can work with others without any problems. All work should begin with checking the slopes. You need to find out their length and width, measure the diagonals. The optimal case is that the roof has an ideal rectangular shape. If there are problems, then they need to be corrected partly at the stage of manufacturing the sheathing, and partly during the actual coating. The ratio should be chosen so that after corrections the roof has a symmetrical appearance.
Object before laying flexible tiles and installing OSB-3 slabs
Step 1. Work begins with valleys (joints of two slopes). Lay an underlay carpet in them; it is sold as a set with a roof. The color of the front surface matches the color of the tiles.
The width of the carpet is at least one meter, there should be approximately 50 cm of protection on both sides. Carefully align the material, avoiding wrinkles. Cut off any excess pieces. After the fitting is completed, you should coat the edges with bitumen mastic and finally glue the carpet. The mastic must be of high quality, the width of the coated strip is at least ten centimeters. The thickness of the mastic layer is approximately 1 mm, cover the entire surface with the material without gaps, use a stainless steel spatula of the appropriate width.
The valley carpet is glued in parts after trying on and checking the position. Make sure that it does not move while pressing. You can press with your hands or with a hard rubber roller. To guarantee, nail it with wide-headed nails. But it is not necessary to do this; the valley carpet is covered on top with bedding and then with shingles of soft tiles. Drive the cloves in increments of 20–25 cm at a distance of three centimeters from the edge.
Step 2. Spread the lining carpet along the main slope from bottom to top. Pay attention to the white stripes, they should be at the top. Subsequently, the protective paper from these strips is removed and glued next strip coverings. The tape should be as even as possible; start fixing only after checking the position along the entire length.
Practical advice. If the roof slope has a very big sizes, then you can make intermediate fixation of the coating every 2.5–3.0 m, but the nails do not need to be driven in completely. They can be completely hammered in only after the roll has been rolled out to the edge of the slope and all folds have been removed.
Carefully cut off the excess along the edge of the slope. Secure the underlying carpet with nails, drive them in the usual order along the white strip, and later this place will be closed.
Step 3. When the first strip is fixed, you can begin laying the second. Carefully ensure that both white paper protective tapes are placed opposite each other, constantly checking the position of the material. Everything is fine - remove the protective paper from both strips and glue the covering. If the length of the roll is not enough, then the joining place must be overlapped by about 10 cm and be sure to coat it with bitumen mastic.
Using the same method, continue to cover the entire ramp sheathing. A gap must be placed on the ridge to ventilate the space above the insulation. Be sure to glue the underlay carpet to the valley; we have already mentioned that these places are the most dangerous; leaks most often appear here.
Prices for lining carpets
Underlay carpet
Fastening cornice and end metal strips
These are not only decorative elements, they perform an important technical task - they protect the sheathing from moisture and prevent the underlay from being undermined by sharp gusts of side wind.
Step 1. Reinstall the first eaves strip, making sure that it is in line with the bottom edge of the slope sheathing. Fix it with nails in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of approximately 20–25 cm. In these places it is advisable to use galvanized hardware, although ordinary ones will last for decades. Slide the next plank under the previous one so that it fits in place, cut the corner with metal scissors.
Step 2. Nail the end (wind) metal strips, the fixing method is the same as described above. The joining point is fixed with a separate nail. Make sure that there is no gap in the corner where the cornice and wind strip meet. Do a little release and sharp corner cut carefully with scissors.
Such work should be done along the entire perimeter of the roof. When all the strips are in place, you can begin installing the flexible tiles.
Practical advice. To make the work easier, it is recommended to do the simplest rope ladder. The leg is inserted into the loops, and the hands hold onto the knots. Such a simple device not only increases the safety of work, but also makes it easier for the roofer to climb a steep slope.
Laying soft tiles
You need to start working by accurately marking the position of the first row; for this purpose, a line is marked on the lining. How exactly? Measure the width of the soft tile from the edge and add 10 mm to this value, this is how much the first row should retreat from the bend of the eaves strip. Such marks should be on both sides of the slope. Then, using a construction cord, you need to beat off the line. The markings made will speed up the work, and there will be no need to take measurements each time. In addition, with its help it will be possible to make the first row perfectly even, and this is what first of all catches the eye.
Step 1. Inspect carefully reverse side tiles, there are two films there. One says that it cannot be removed before installation, but the other says the opposite. Remove the wide tape; it will reveal a layer of adhesive bitumen.
Step 2. Lay the first shingle so that its top edge lies exactly along the cut line. Align the edges, they should be located at a distance of 10 mm from the wind and cornice strips. Press the adhesive layer firmly onto the metal. Next, continue working according to the same algorithm, the shingles of the eaves tiles should be even at the joints, no overlaps are made.
Step 3. Start gluing regular shingles. Before installation, you also need to remove the protective polyethylene film.
Important. Ordinary tiles are 10 mm narrower than the eaves. For correct installation you need to align the upper ends of the materials along the same line; at the bottom there will be a difference in length of one centimeter.
Make sure that the ends are perfectly parallel to the metal strips. Press the shingles firmly with your hands. We have already mentioned that the warmer it is outside, the better the coating adheres, the more reliable the fixation.
Drive nails with wide heads at a distance of 1 cm under each adhesive strip. There is one peculiarity - at the top of the shingles, only one nail is driven in at the corners. In this way, secure the entire first row of shingles.
Step 4. After completing the installation of the first row of conventional shingles, you can begin the second. The technology requires that the second row be glued with a shift, due to this the joints of the first shingles are covered and sealed, and at the same time the heads of the driven nails are closed. Manufacturers have provided for such an offset; there is no need to measure anything. Step back the width of the adhesive strips and position the next shingle above them, taking into account the dimensions of the cutouts. Further, the installation technology is no different.
Due to the fact that the second row is laid offset, the outermost shingles will have to be cut. Place it in place and mark the cutting locations. It is better to cut soft tiles on small wooden stands; they are guaranteed to protect the litter from accidental damage. But experienced roofers do this on already installed shingles, turn the shingles reverse side and carefully cut off with a sharp knife. It is not recommended for beginners to do this; the risks of damaging the coating are too great.
Step 5. On each fixed row, in turn, bend the sheets of soft tiles and hammer a nail under them. Then coat the back of the petal with mastic and glue it to the bottom shingle. The petals have under protective film bitumen, but to guarantee adhesion strength, experienced builders recommend additionally lubricating the surfaces with mastic. This does not take much time and completely prevents the elements from being undermined by gusts of wind.
How to design a valley and ridge
Find the exact location of the valley, step back 2–3 cm and insert a thin wooden slats. It is needed to ensure that the coating is not damaged when cutting off sections of the flexible roof protruding beyond the bend. You need to cut them off with a sharp knife under a metal ruler (you can use building level), a lot of effort will be required, achieve the most even and neat cut possible. Move the wooden batten up the valley as needed and continue cutting off excess soft tiles. After this, you need to completely lay the tiles on the second adjacent slope and again make a cut along the bend. You will get an even and beautiful junction of two slopes.
A special additional element is mounted on the ridge. It should cover the gap from rain and snow and at the same time provide effective ventilation under-roof space. We have already mentioned that this is necessary for warm roofs, if they are cold, then ventilation is not done. The panel is bent at the desired angle and laid on the ridge, fixed with nails with anti-corrosion coating or from stainless alloys. To protect against ultraviolet radiation and improving the design appearance, the surface of the plastic ridge element is covered with flexible tiles, which are nailed. Don’t forget to put special foam tapes in place; they prevent insects from entering the ventilated space.
Video - Installation of bitumen shingles
The article was written with the participation of TECHNONICOL company
Roofing country house it is often called the “fifth facade” - the entire appearance of the house depends on it. It is not surprising that among many developers, interest in a material that is attractive both in appearance and in terms of characteristics is growing every year. But for such a roof to look beautiful and last a long time, it must be installed correctly. A specialist from the manufacturing company talks about all the nuances of the technology for installing flexible tiles.
Features of installation of flexible tiles
Step 1. Construction of a solid base. Although the technology for installing flexible tiles has been worked out to the smallest detail, there are a number of key points that you should pay attention to even before laying a soft roof.
Gekz User FORUMHOUSE
At first I wanted to cover the roof with metal tiles, but after thinking about it, I decided that a soft roof looks much more beautiful. I will install the flexible tiles myself. The roof is hip. The attic is cold. Slope angle - 25 °. The rafters are installed in increments of 500-600 mm. Questions arose about the construction of the base for the soft roof and the layers of the roofing “pie”.
User Questions:
- What is the sheathing pitch to maintain?
- What should I use as a solid base, OSB?
- Do I need to use special membranes under the sheathing?
- Do I need to put something on top of the solid base to protect it from moisture before installing the roofing?
These questions are relevant for any developer who decides to use flexible tiles.
The installation of a soft roof begins with preparing the base. The technology for its installation requires that flexible tiles must be laid on a solid, level, rigid base to which the shingles can be secured with nails.
The following can be used as such flooring:
- OSB-3 boards (moisture-resistant oriented strand board).
- Moisture resistant plywood.
- Tongue or edged boards, graded by thickness with a relative humidity of no more than 20%.
Practice shows that the best option For the installation of continuous flooring, both in terms of price-quality and ease of installation, OSB-3 slabs are used. Moreover, the height difference between the sheets should not exceed 1-2 mm. The use of boards as flooring can lead to the fact that over time, as the wood dries, the base may warp. This will cause a change in its geometry and, accordingly, the formation of waves on the already laid finishing coating.
It is recommended to install OSB-3 or plywood sheets staggered. You can fasten the sheets with rough nails or self-tapping screws. The pitch of the sheathing is calculated in such a way that the horizontal joints of the slabs fall on the sheathing boards, and the ends of the sheets do not hang in the air!
Artem Azarov
When installing a solid base, a distance (gap) of 3-5 mm wide is maintained between the seams of the slabs. This must be done to compensate for linear temperature expansion as the seasons change.
Depending on the pitch of the additional sheathing, it is used different thickness OSB-3, plywood or wood flooring. For clarity, the recommended values are summarized in the following table:
If the side of the passage element installed across the roof slope (for example, chimney), more than 50 cm, then, to facilitate water drainage and prevent snow accumulation, a so-called. groove
Important: to ensure optimal temperature and humidity conditions of the roof and timely removal of excess moisture from the under-roof space, do ventilated roof space.
If the roof is insulated, or a residential attic floor, then from the inside (up to the insulation layer) it is arranged continuous vapor barrier, and a superdiffusion membrane is mounted on top of the insulation layer.
Then a counter beam is placed along the rafter leg, due to which a ventilation under-roof channel is formed. A sheathing is laid across the counter beam, onto which a solid base is then mounted.
The superdiffusion membrane ensures the diffusion of water vapor (releases it outside), but prevents the passage of water that has entered the insulation from the outside.
Step 2. Strengthening the eaves overhang. After installing a solid base, the eaves overhangs must be reinforced with metal strips - the so-called. droppers. Despite the apparent simplicity of installing these elements, users of our portal often ask what mistakes can be made.
AlexHomutov User FORUMHOUSE
I made a solid base for flexible shingles from OSB and now I’m puzzled by the question: how to properly mount and connect cornice and pediment strips.
The cornice strips are laid edgewise on the edge of the solid base. The planks are nailed to the solid flooring with special roofing nails with a wide head, in a checkerboard pattern, maintaining a step of 12-15 cm. When nailing the nails, make sure that they are not nailed too low from the edge of the overhang (maintain a distance from the bend point of the eaves strip > 4 cm). Otherwise, it will be difficult to cover the nails with the underlayment.
At intersections, the planks are fastened with an overlap of at least 3-5 cm. Moreover, when constructing a valley, the planks are cut in a special way, and a special tongue is left on one of the planks, into which the second plank then fits. In this case, the connection is neat and tight.
Artem Azarov
When installing eaves strips, inexperienced developers make the following mistake - they immediately hammer in two nails on two opposite edges of the drip edge. Then the remaining nails are driven in. As a result, waves may appear on the surface of the plank.
To avoid this, drive the nails driven in at the edges so that they can be easily pulled out (for example, drive the nail only halfway). This way we will fix the bar. Then we hammer in the rest of the nails to the end, moving along one side of the drip (from left to right or from right to left, as is more convenient). Having hammered several nails, we pull out the outermost nail-fixer and hammer in the rest. Thanks to this method, waves will not appear on the bar.
Step 3. Installation of underlay carpet. One of the key points when installing flexible tiles is the installation of a lining carpet over the entire roof area. Special attention You should pay attention to places of possible leaks - valleys and eaves overhangs. As a rule, the nuances of laying the underlay carpet cause greatest number questions from developers.
Bege74 User FORUMHOUSE
I wondered if there was an angle of inclination of the roof slope at which it would be possible to get by with only an ordinary underlayment, and is this correct?
Kostya User FORUMHOUSE
Often, when installing flexible tiles, builders roll out only one thing - a simple lining carpet, which is fixed with nails. Is it possible to do this? And is it necessary to use (as the methodology prescribes) both plain and self-adhesive underlayment?
Artem Azarov
When installing a roof made of flexible tiles prerequisite is a combination of two types of underlay carpets. Self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is used in especially critical places - eaves overhangs and valleys. Underlay carpets with mechanical fixation are rolled out over the rest of the roof surface.
Compliance with this principle is a guarantee of trouble-free operation of the roof, which is stipulated in the installation instructions for bitumen shingles.
Because Underlay carpets are produced in rolls, then they are rolled out parallel to the eaves overhang. Horizontal overlaps - 100 mm. Vertical overlaps – 150 mm. Underlay carpet fixed with roofing nails with a wide head. Fixation step - every 200-250 mm. Overlapping areas of underlay carpets (8-10 cm wide) are coated with bitumen mastic.
After laying the underlayment, the gable overhang of the roof is reinforced with metal end strips. The planks are nailed with roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern, in increments of 12-15 cm. At the joints, the planks are laid with an overlap of 15 cm and secured with 2 nails.
Step 4. Construction of the valley. Laying flexible tiles in the valley can be done in several ways:
- Open method.
- Using the "undercut" method.
Preparation of the valley depends on the chosen method of its construction. Let's consider the first method. Work begins with laying out a pre-cut self-adhesive backing carpet. A strip 1 meter wide is laid out in the valley, with an overlap of 50 cm on each side. When laying out the carpet, make sure that the carpet fabric lies flat on the base, without folds or bubbles.
Important: the carpet is laid out on the eaves strip with an indentation of 2-3 cm from the edge of the drip edge. For clarity, you can use the following table of the dependence of the indentation on the angle and length of the valley slope.
After laying out the self-adhesive lining carpet, remove the anti-adhesive film from its back side. The film is not removed from the entire surface of the carpet, but only from one of its sides. After this, the film-free part of the self-adhesive lining carpet is glued to the base. Having fixed the carpet, we glue its other side in the same way.
Artem Azarov
We pay special attention to the valley axis. The carpet in this part should stick tightly, without the formation of voids or bubbles. When installing the underlay carpet, when cutting it, a slight rounding is made in the lower part to ensure better water drainage and its removal from the junction of the eaves strips.
When installing the underlayment, make sure that no waves form on it, otherwise after installing the tiles they will be visible on the roof surface. All overlaps between carpets are coated with bitumen mastic. The mastic is applied with a hard spatula. The thickness of the mastic layer should not exceed 1 mm.
Next, a special valley carpet is installed on top of the lining carpet. When cutting the valley carpet, to beat off the water, exactly the same rounding is done at the junction of the planks as when installing the lining carpet. Also, do not forget to ensure that the valley carpet lies tightly and no bubbles or folds form under it.
We glue the valley carpet to the lining carpet with mastic. Apply a layer of mastic along the entire perimeter of the valley carpet. Layer width – 10 cm.
Artem Azarov
After gluing the valley carpet, we additionally fix it mechanically- we nail the carpet around the perimeter with roofing nails with a wide head in increments of 20-25 cm and a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge. After we have installed the valley carpet, we mark the gutter line and the area that cannot be pierced with nails when installing the tiles. We mark off the lines with a marking cord.
Depending on the location of the house, the width of the gutter ranges from 5 to 15 cm. For example, if there are trees on the site, the width of the gutter must be increased to remove leaves without hindrance. The nail-proof zone is about 30 cm from the central axis of the valley.
If the water flow from the slopes is significantly different, then the valley gutter must be shifted towards a smaller water flow to compensate for the erosion of water at the junction of the row tiles and the valley carpet.
Conclusion
At the end of the material, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the most frequently asked questions problems that our users experience when working with flexible tiles.
Nikolay11111 User FORUMHOUSE