Warm water floor in a concrete house. How to make warm water floors in a private house on a concrete floor with your own hands? Construction of a heated floor

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system, in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a floor structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The heated floor system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central heating system.

A water underfloor heating system can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and heating method, there are different types of heated floors: water and (cable, rod,).

Water-heated floor heating is a durable and economical heating system, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, installation of underfloor heating systems is entrusted to professionals. For those who have decided to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• effective heat redistribution, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;

• security natural circulation air;

• compatibility of heated floors with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);

• possibility to install autonomous system(individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;

• reduction in heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);

• independence from power supply (and power outages);

• the ability to regulate the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;

• minimal costs for self-installation;

• is improving appearance premises due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Minuses:

• inertia of the system. The heating time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);

• design complexity in the case of using underfloor heating as the only source of room heating;

• high installation cost;

• it is difficult to regulate the temperature when connected to the central heating main;

• reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;

• the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;

• the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors below, in a private house - basement);

• low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - DIY installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four sequential steps:

1. Develop it yourself, download a ready-made standard one or order an individual project for a warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist to eliminate errors.
2. Select equipment and building materials.
3. Install the underfloor heating system correctly.
4. Check and launch the water heated floor for the first time.
5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a heated floor

Before you begin drawing up a project, you need to make sure that there are no unavoidable obstacles to installing the system indoors. These may include:

• room height. The thickness of the water-heated floor (installed system) is 100-120 mm. This results in the floor being raised to the appropriate height;

• door installation location. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm (standard door and installation gaps) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a custom door;

• window orientation. Windows located to the north or northwest, or oriented to the windy side, or having big size, can lead to the fact that the system power will need to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and ensure the desired room temperature;

  Note. If the calculated heat losses are more than 100 W/sq.m. It is not practical to install a water heating system.

• load-bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Taking into account the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the water heated floor system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but it is a reason to look into a water-based floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house have become more widespread than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles to the device, you can begin designing.

Calculation of water heated floor

Calculation in progress required quantity material depending on the parameters of the heated room and technical characteristics components of equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made based on the following data:

• floor area and room height;
• material of walls and ceilings;
• degree and type of thermal insulation;
• type of flooring;
• pipe material and diameter;
• power of the heating element (boiler or central);
• desired temperature regime (see table).

Limit (maximum) temperature of the surface of a heated floor for premises for various purposes

After this, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of pipe placement.

How to make a water heated floor correctly

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

• Floor heating elements cannot be installed in furniture locations, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;

• It is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the cross-section of the pipe);

Maximum length of a water-heated floor circuit (loop) depending on the pipe diameter used

The deviation is explained by the fact that hydraulic resistance (slowing down the movement of the coolant) and thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Craftsmen consider the optimal length of the circuit to be 50-60 m (with a pipe cross-section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that as it moves through the pipes, the hot water releases some of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

• The pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) heating source, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the pitch is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, a “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

• installing thermostats will avoid overheating and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing a heated floor system in an apartment is associated with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Typically, installation is permitted only in new houses where there is a separate riser for pumping out hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).

Installation of heated floors in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required to heat a small area.

In addition to the installation diagram of the components, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected at the design stage.

1. Concrete system. Involves filling pipes with concrete (arrangement of screed);
2. Laying system. Involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no “wet” processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - components for heated floors

A water-heated floor is a complex system of pipes containing a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed to install a heated floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is connecting to a gas boiler. If the apartment does not individual heating, you can connect to the main line central heating, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage lies in the possibility of installation in apartment buildings(since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the mounting unit). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for heated floors

Necessary to ensure the movement of coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​the house exceeds 100 square meters.

Pipes for warm water floors

• copper pipes according to experts are considered ideal option- durable, characterized by high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;

• metal-plastic pipes leading in terms of price/quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the occurrence of corrosion and accumulation, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow section unchanged. Besides, metal-plastic pipes They are light in weight, bend easily and have a high temperature limit.

• polypropylene pipes They are attracted by the low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.

• PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, because when heated, they straighten. Users recommend reducing the mounting step of the holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal cross-section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users advise using only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floors

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of the heated floor);

• expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made thermal insulation mats having projections for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;

• mineral wool. Users speak poorly of wool in the case of a concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. The thermal insulation layer (the thickness of the insulation for a heated floor) above the basement, in the basement, on the first floor in a private house should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected coolant temperature, the thicker the thermal insulation layer needs to be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

Manifold cabinet

Installed for installation of adjusting elements and joining of circuit pipes with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for heated floors

Users have different opinions regarding the installation of reinforced stacks. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen concrete screed after laying the pipe system.

Components for the screed device

• concrete (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
• fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - installation of a warm water floor with your own hands

1. Installation of the manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, the mandatory elements of which are (manifold unit): a manifold, a pump, an air vent valve and a drain outlet. The dimensions of the collector depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the collector at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to follow this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending pipes. In this case, it is not allowed to install pipes from above, only from below. This will ensure normal movement coolant. Installing a shut-off valve between the piping system and the collector will simplify maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, draining, repair).

2. Preparing the base for heated floors

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Laying is carried out on the prepared surface thermal insulation material, reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying a damper tape eliminates the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under water-heated floors must be leveled to ensure equal screed thickness (the key to uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for heated floors

Installation of water heated floor pipes can be performed using several methods (layout diagrams):

Snail

The pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is necessary to lay pipes through a row to ensure the reverse flow of the coolant and more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​more than 40 square meters.

Snake (loop)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along outer wall, then returns back in waves. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined pattern)

The loops of the snake are arranged in parallel and allow you to organize the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Advice. Craftsmen advise starting installation from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended that a beginner first apply markings to the floor surface. At the time of installation of heated floors in subsequent rooms, installation will be done “by eye”. For installation, only solid pipes or reliable connections are used.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end to the supply manifold.

You can organize insulation near external walls by changing the order of the pipes, as shown in the diagram.

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire, or lay reinforcement mesh on the floor and tie the pipe to it, allowing for thermal expansion of the materials.

The work is simplified by a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a heated water floor, the use of which simultaneously allows for thermal insulation and laying pipes in even rows.

4. Connecting the underfloor heating manifold

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Pressure testing of water heated floors

Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic testing), this is the name given to the procedure for checking the quality of installation, because at this stage it is possible to make adjustments to the water heated floor heating system.

Pressure testing involves introducing water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated operating pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressure testing, it is permissible to reduce the pressure by no more than 10%, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. The verification time is a day or more. If no violations are detected and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue work.

6. Screed for heated water floors

For screed can be used:

• any ready-made mixture, the mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;

• classic concrete (with cement grade of at least M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is poured when the system is full (filled with coolant) with the pressure specified during pressure testing. The complete hardening time of concrete is 28 days. For the mixture, the hardening time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. On the surface of a large area (more than 40 square meters), expansion joints are provided.

Stage 4 - first launch of water-heated floor

After the floor screed has completely hardened (dried), the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Stage 5 - finishing of the heated floor

The fully finished heated floor is covered finishing material. Today, the most popular flooring remains tile and laminate.

Water-based heated flooring under laminate has become widespread. However, the installation of laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

• The quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, harmful substances will be released into the room. Typically, laminate flooring is labeled “Warm wasser”;

• the heat insulator does not fit under the laminate;

• Ventilation of the laminate floor is required. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then covered with a plinth;

• Before laying, the laminate is placed in the room to set the floor temperature. In this case, packages with lamellas should be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high stack.

As you can see, using laminate as a floor covering does not create any additional difficulties, but experts advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate has low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors, the fumes of which may not have the best effect on the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last for a long time if you follow the recommendations for their use, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

• a gradual increase in temperature is necessary. You cannot run the system at “maximum” after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 °C per day;

• the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;

• It is not recommended to turn the system on/off frequently. This will not result in additional savings;

• need to be provided optimal humidity in room. A balanced microclimate will have a beneficial effect on human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, you can perform installation work outside, for example, to install a snow melting and anti-icing system (for heating a walkway, entrance area, porch, staircase, parking lot, etc.).

Heated floors in the home are becoming increasingly popular not only because it is fashionable. Firstly, it is very convenient, secondly, if the system is built correctly, it is economical and, thirdly, incredibly comfortable. As soon as you find yourself in a room with heated floors, you begin to think about how you can do something similar at home. Owners of private houses are lucky: they can install any floor heating system. You just need to choose which one.

Heating a private house with heated floors

Floor heating can be the main heating system, or it can serve to improve living comfort. The roles are different. How to decide? It all depends on what climatic zone the location of your home and how well it is insulated.

Heating a house with heated floors is only possible if, subject to recommendations for floor temperature (the surface should have a temperature no higher than 30 o C), its thermal power will be sufficient to replenish the heat loss of your home.

Determining heat loss

How to find out heat loss? In general, you need to order a thermal engineering calculation from a specialized organization. This is a rather tedious and rather complex calculation, which takes into account:

• wall material and thickness,
• materials and thickness of the foundation, roof,
• type and thickness of insulation of each structural element of the house,
• area of ​​windows and doors, degree of their insulation,
• material and thickness of floors,
• climatic factors;
• a lot more things.

By the way, the design organization will require all this data from you along with the house plan, so you can prepare in advance.

Calculating all this on your own is time consuming and not at all easy: thermal engineering calculations are one of the most complex in the industry. But you can still try to estimate the heat loss yourself, albeit with a large error. There are two methods: by area and by volume. If you apply correction factors correctly, you can achieve more or less accurate results. But the volume calculation method seems more correct. It is described in the article:

Try using this method to roughly estimate the heat loss of individual rooms and the house as a whole.

We count the heat coming from the floor

Determining the required amount of heat is not everything. Now you need to find out how much of this heat heated floors can give you. Practice has established that, on average, 60-80 W/m2 can be “removed” from one meter of floor. Don't be alarmed, this is not enough. After all, we are talking about the entire heated floor area. Considering the number of “squares” of the room, this is already decent.

But make no mistake! We are talking about the heated area, not the total area. The fact is that there is no point in heating the floor, say, under a large cabinet that you are not going to move, there is no point in heating a refrigerator or washing machine, arrange heated floors under cabinets in the kitchen, etc. In addition to the fact that this is irrational, some heaters are afraid of the so-called “locking” - this is when some things are placed on them. This threatens them with overheating, which can cause cables or infrared film to burn out.

Zones in which a pipe with coolant will be laid out and will be a heated area. To calculate it from total area rooms, subtract the area of ​​objects under which there is no point in heating the floor, and you get the required figure.

Now you can calculate how much heat a warm floor can give you in each room. To do this, multiply the found heated area by 60 W/m2 or 80 W/m2. Which one specifically? If the room is supposed to have tiles, it can be considered 80 W/m2, for all other coatings the figure is usually 60 W/m2.

Can underfloor heating be used as the main heating system for a home?

To find out whether it is possible to heat a private house only with heated floors, compare the results obtained with the calculated heat losses. If a warm floor can not give less heat than the room loses - it can be the main heating system.

If there is not enough heat from the floor, a combined system is made. Radiators are often combined with heated floors. But you can also use convectors or infrared emitters, but you can make not only the floor, but also the walls or ceiling warm. You won’t be able to install water floors there (although if you set a goal, you can do that), but electric floors can be done easily. You can combine heated floors with another new heating system - baseboard. In general, there are a lot of options, especially for a private home.

When planning combined system Some rooms can only be heated with heated floors. Those where the heat removal from floor heating is sufficient to compensate for losses. Usually in these rooms there are tiles, not many items, or the pieces of furniture are small in size (corridor, hallway, kitchen, bathroom, etc.). In others, you can install heated floors together with radiators.

How realistic is it to heat a private home with heated floors? Quite realistic and doable. Provided that your house is well insulated and is located not in the north, but at least in middle lane.

What kind of heated floors to make in the house

But you can heat the floor in your house using different systems. Which ones are better? It’s hard to say, but more often they are installed in houses. Maybe because it’s closer to the radiator system we’re used to, or maybe they don’t want to pay high electricity bills.

Water heated floors: types of installation, pros and cons

The most economical to operate are water heated floors. But the system is complex and expensive to install. But you will pay less for heating monthly. And even less than when using radiators. By about 20%.

What is needed for a water floor in the house? Lots of equipment:

Heating cables appeared first, then they began to make mats from them. This method is still popular in Europe (in northern countries with similar climates too). So the technology can be trusted. If we talk about price, then among electric heaters for the floor, cables are the cheapest. Cable mats are a little more expensive, but they are easier to install.

In recent years, they have been gaining popularity. And all because they emit heat in the infrared range. It is worth saying that they are installed quickly and simply, using the “dry” method without a screed. Well suited for installation under laminate or wooden floors, as they heat the floor evenly. Striped films for heated floors are more common on the market, but there are also films with a continuous coating. So they are better under a floorboard or parquet, as they heat more evenly, which is important for wood.

One of the types of electric heated floors is infrared carbon film

Film floors with tiles are not very good: ordinary carbon films in the screed are destroyed, and their smooth surface does not bond well with tile adhesive. Therefore, they are installed in a dry screed under gypsum fiber boards or chipboards, and tiles are already laid on them. But there are special films with through perforation that were developed specifically for tiles. So, if you wish, you can lay them down.

Infrared films work well on ceilings or walls. This is for the case when the heat transfer from the floor is not enough for heating. You can heat up part of the wall (necessarily the inside, not the outside) and turn on this heating as needed.

Liquid electric floors

This is a new product on the market: . This is a symbiosis of a water floor that is heated by electricity. There are two systems so far, and both have different devices. One polyethylene pipe filled with antifreeze, a seven-core heating cable is inserted inside, the pipe is sealed hermetically, placed in the floor screed, and the ends of the electrical cable are wound into mounting box, which is already connected to the thermostat. It turns out that this is essentially water heating, but the coolant is heated electrically by a cable. Interesting solution.

Warm floor XL Pipe (X-L Pipe) from the Korean campaign Daewoo Enertec - electric-water heating

The second type of liquid electric floors is the capillary system. Here the principle is a little different. Thin tubes are also laid in the screed. They are connected to the control unit. It heats the coolant, creates pressure and controls the temperature. This method is an excellent method for heating one room: there is no need to fence a complex system, and there is no electricity in the floor.

Results

With so many options, it's easy to get lost. So let's summarize. The cheapest ones during operation are water floors. They can be installed not only in screeds, but also using flooring systems - without mortar. The disadvantage of water floors is the significant costs at the installation stage.

Electric heated floors are more often used for floor heating only in some rooms: they “draw” a lot of energy, and you need to pay for it. But at the installation stage they require less investment.

Warm floors in a private home are a justified solution: heating the lower layer of air significantly increases the level of comfort. When I was selecting materials for laying such floors in my home, I “shoveled” a huge amount of information. I will share the knowledge I have gained, as well as my experience in designing and installing heated floors with you.

Advantages and disadvantages of the solution

Heated flooring is popular today. Either hot water pipes or electric heating elements are placed under the floor. Thanks to this, we get the opportunity to walk on a warm surface, and not on cold tiles/laminate/linoleum.

Advantages:

1. Increased comfort level. This plus is the most important: even in the cold season, you can walk around the house barefoot or in thin socks. In this case, there will be no unpleasant sensations - rather, on the contrary.

1. Economical heating. Heat from heating elements under the floor spreads naturally - from bottom to top. Thanks to this, less energy is required to comfortably warm the room. In a private house with autonomous heating, the savings will be obvious.

1. Possibility of temperature adjustment. The operation of the heated floor can be adjusted so that the degree of heating depends on the air temperature in the room. This will allow us to maintain the microclimate at the desired level - not too cold, not too hot.
2. Relatively simple installation. Almost anyone can install an electric heated floor with their own hands - in terms of labor intensity, this process cannot be compared with installing a heating system. With the water variety it is a little more difficult, but even here you can do without the help of specialists.

Minuses:

1. Additional expenses. Everything is logical here: installation of a separate system requires the purchase of materials and a large amount of work. The only way to save money is on the labor costs of craftsmen.
2. Raising the floor level. Depending on the type of heaters used, the level will rise by 7-12 cm. In private houses with high ceilings this is rarely a problem, but the thresholds will most likely have to be redone.

1. Not all floor coverings are suitable. Only materials with good thermal conductivity can be laid on top of a heated floor, preferably specially designed for use with heated floors. The use of unsuitable coatings will reduce the efficiency of the system. Moreover, in the case of electric floors there is a risk of their failure from overheating caused by poor heat dissipation.

Despite these disadvantages, installing heated floors in a private home is quite justified. They can be used both as the main source of heat and as additional heating.

Preparing the base

Installation of a floor in a private house begins with the preparation of a rough covering, which will be the basis for the floor. It must be strong, smooth and at the same time have low thermal conductivity. The last point is very important: good thermal insulation foundation will allow us to reduce heat loss, and almost all the energy generated by the heated floor will penetrate into the room.

The table provides instructions for installing a base insulated with expanded clay:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Dismantling. We dismantle the old floor covering, exposing the concrete or soil base. It may also be necessary to remove old beams or joist systems.
	Marking. By using laser level A line is drawn along the perimeter of the walls to which we will raise the base. When using expanded clay as thermal insulation, you need to leave as large a gap as possible - this way the insulation will be more effective.
	Backfill. We lay a layer of sand about 10 cm thick on the base of the future floor. We compact the sand bedding using a manual or electric tamper.
	Waterproofing. We lay a layer of waterproofing material on top of the sand bedding. Most cheap option- dense polyethylene, but you can also purchase a specialized membrane.
	Installation of beacons. We lay supports (in our case, halves of bricks) on the waterproofing, on which we place beacon profiles. We carefully level the beacons.
	Laying thermal insulation. We fill the space between the beacons with expanded clay. To increase the effectiveness of the thermal insulation layer, we mix expanded clay granules with liquid cement-sand mortar, obtaining improvised expanded clay concrete.
	Screed. We pour a screed on top of the expanded clay, raising the floor level to the design level. We level the screed using the rule according to the beacons.
	Final alignment. After the initial polymerization of the screed, we remove the beacons from the solution and then seal the holes. We rub the seams with a trowel and dry the floor for at least 14 days.

Expanded clay is not the only material that can be used for thermal insulation of the base under a heated floor. If there is no need to reconstruct the coating, then the following can be laid on top of the old concrete screed:

1. Polystyrene based boards(Penoplex and analogues). Sheets of insulation are laid close to each other, and the gaps between them are filled polyurethane foam. To increase rigidity, a reinforcing mesh is usually installed on top of the polystyrene slabs, and the entire structure is attached to the solid base with anchors.
2. Rolled foil material. The base is foamed polyethylene, which is covered on one or both sides with thin aluminum foil. The material is laid in a metallized layer inside the room, and secured at the joints with aluminum tape. This option is ideal for electric floors.

1. Mats for water floors. Such parts are made of a polymer with low thermal conductivity and are equipped with protrusions on the front surface. The presence of these protrusions allows heating system pipes to be laid between them. So we not only insulate the floor, but also make installation easier for ourselves.

Type 1. Water floors

Water floor elements

The most common type of heated floors for a private home are water-based structures. In essence, such a floor is a system of hot water pipes hidden in the floor screed. Heated floor pipes are connected either to a general heating system or to a separate heating device.

To create such a system we will need:

Illustration	Design element
	Pipes for the heating system. When laying heating circuits, either metal-plastic models or products made of cross-linked polyethylene are used. Both varieties are characterized by good heat transfer and low temperature deformation.
	Warm floor collector. This is a device that allows you to optimize piping: for each heating circuit, the manifold must have a separate pair of terminals. The cheapest manifolds are equipped only with shut-off ball valves. More effective devices are those that have a separate control valve for each circuit, allowing you to adjust the temperature of each loop. The disadvantage of such collectors is their higher price.
	Circulation pump. Allows you to maintain hot water circulation in the system. It can be included in the design of the water heater, but if you power the heated floor from a simple boiler, then the pump must be installed separately.
	Damper tape. It is installed around the perimeter of the room to compensate for the expansion of the screed when the pipes embedded in it are heated. Most often made from foamed polymers.

In addition to the main elements, we may also need pipe fastening systems. If installation is carried out on mats, then additional fasteners are not needed. If you have to install it on a screed or a layer of insulation, then it is advisable to purchase brackets with locks and anchor fastening.

Pipe Laying Basics

To effectively heat the floor covering, pipes are laid in a certain step. This value is usually in the range from 35 to 15 cm: the stronger the heating we need, the denser we lay the pipes.

Too sparse styling can lead to a “striped floor” effect. When moving, you will feel uneven heating of its areas, which will cause some discomfort.

The total length of the pipe for heating the room is calculated by the formula:

D=S/M*k, Where:

• D- required pipe length, m;
• S- room area, m2;
• M- laying step, m;
• k- safety factor, from 1.1 to 1.4.

On average, pipe consumption ranges from 3.5 to 1.5 m per 1 square meter area.

There are also several pipe layout schemes. They differ relative position direct and return circuits, and therefore the efficiency of heat redistribution:

1. For rooms with a small area Usually the simplest “snake” is chosen. Small size the room does not allow the temperature in the pipes to drop significantly.
2. For medium sized rooms the optimal choice would be a “double snake” or “snail”. In this case, close placement of forward and return circuits ensures uniform heating of the floor.
3. For the most large rooms rational decision there will be several separate circuits installed.

Water floor installation technology

Installation of a water floor in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. The collector is connected to a source of hot water supply and placed either in a wall-mounted collector cabinet or in a wall niche covered with a hatch.

The dimensions of collectors usually do not exceed 120 mm, so it is quite possible to create such a niche in a fairly thick wall.

After this, the floor itself is laid:

Illustration	Laying stage
	Installation of damper tape. We stick damper tape around the perimeter of the room or separate area where the heating circuit will be laid. In addition to compensating for deformations, it will provide additional protection against heat loss.
	Laying of reinforcement. If this has not been done previously, lay reinforcing mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer on the base. We fix the mesh with anchors, and connect the individual rolls with knitting wire.
	Laying and fixing pipes. We unwind the heating pipe from the coil, making sure that it does not twist along its axis. We lay out the pipe on the base according to the diagram and fix it. For fixation we use either brackets or simple plastic clamps(cheap and convenient to attach to fittings).
	Connection to the collector. The pipe going to the manifold is connected to one of the terminals (installation of a fitting is required), the second end of the pipe is connected to the second terminal of the pair. After this, fill the circuit with water. We maintain the system under pressure for at least 48 hours to detect leaks.
	Filling the screed. We lay a cement-sand screed on top of the laid pipes (water cannot be drained!). We level the floor surface and then dry the solution for 28 days. Until the solution is completely dry, serve hot water into the system is strongly not recommended.

After the screed has hardened and the flooring has been laid, you can use floor heating as usual. If you turn on the system earlier, there is a high probability of cracks forming in the concrete as a result of pipe expansion under heating.

Type 2. Electric heated floors

Operating principle and main types

If underfloor heating is needed in separate room, then instead of a water one, you can make an electric heated floor. Typically, such systems are used as additional heating and connect to the thermostat. Thanks to this, the heating elements turn on automatically as soon as the temperature drops below a certain point.

Heated floors work simply. It is based on heating elements - plates, rods or cables. When current passes through high-resistance elements, they heat up, transferring most of the heat to the floor covering.

There are three types of heated electric floors.

Illustration	Type of heated floor
	Film. The most common type, the main advantage of which is its small thickness. The heating element is thin carbon plates connected by conductive paths and insulated on both sides with a thin polymer film.
	Cable. The base is a cable with high resistance, which heats up when current passes. The advantage of a cable floor is the ability to lay cables at different pitches - this way you can regulate the degree of heating.
	Rod. Heating elements are carbon rods that are connected by wires unified system. Such floors are powerful and reliable, but their price is quite high.

Electric film flooring technology

I consider film flooring to be the easiest type to install. Therefore, I will give it as an example of installation:

Illustration	Installation stage of electric heated floor
	Preparation of the heat-reflecting layer. It is highly advisable to lay a foil backing under the film floor. Thanks to it, we will not heat the concrete slab or screed: all the heat will be reflected from the foil into the room.
	Open the films. It is advisable to lay the film in long fragments - this way you will have to install fewer wires. The material must be cut according to special marks so as not to damage the heating elements.
	Layout of material. We lay the heating sheets on the prepared base and level them. They can be glued with tape, but it is advisable to leave the edges free for ease of connection.
	Connecting contacts. Focusing on the marking of the material, we open the film opposite the conductive path. We attach a contact alligator clip to it.
	Contact insulation. We carefully isolate all contacts and cut points. Instead of standard insulation tape It is advisable to use special butyl plates, which are usually included in the floor kit. They simply need to be pressed tightly around the contact.
	Connecting the thermostat and checking. We connect the wires from the heating film to the thermostat, focusing on symbols. We turn on the system for a few minutes, checking the quality of the insulation and the degree of heating of the panels.
	Laying flooring. If everything is in order, we mount the thermostat on the wall and lay laminate or linoleum on top of the heating film.

Conclusion

You are convinced that laying a warm water floor and electric film heating is quite within the capabilities of even novice craftsmen. Based on the tips and videos in this article, you can choose materials for such systems and install them yourself. Answers to any questions you may have can be found in the comments.

Warm floors are a modern heating system that is increasingly used in country houses and cottages. In many cases it becomes the main heating, but sometimes it is installed only to increase comfort.

Meanwhile, heated floors can be different: water, electric, infrared. In this article we will look at the features of such systems, the differences, as well as the advantages and disadvantages.

Why is it recommended to install heated floors in your home? What are its advantages?

A heated floor system of any type installed in a cottage guarantees owners more high level comfort and several important advantages.

However, perhaps the most interesting thing is that all heating elements are completely hidden from view, that is, the appearance of the cottage becomes much better - no protruding pipes or familiar radiators. At the same time, living in such a house is usually warm, since there is a heating circuit(water, infrared or electric).

It is also important that contact with heating elements, since they are placed under the floor covering. Which increases the level of security.

The circulation of heated air becomes more uniform, and overall heating costs can be significantly lower (provided that a water circuit is used). The floor is always warm, you can walk barefoot - and this is especially important if there are children in the house.

What types of heated floors are there?

In practice they use the following types such systems:

1. water;
2. electric;
3. infrared;
4. combined (rarely used, we will not consider it).

Each of these types of heating has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In order to choose a specific system, it is necessary to analyze the features, pros and cons of each of them.

Water heated floor

This is the most popular, but at the same time the most complex, option for installing underfloor heating in cottages. However, you should understand that equipping it yourself is not an easy task, only if you have the appropriate experience. It is better to entrust the design and installation of this type of heating to specialists.

Features of the system, positive and negative properties

In general, the water heated floor system is a closed loop made of pipes. The circuit is mounted under the floor covering on a concrete screed, special polystyrene slabs or wooden floors and connected to the general heating system.

The system kit includes the following elements:

1. pipes (plastic, metal-plastic);
2. fasteners;
3. thermal insulation materials;
4. manifold and fittings for connection.

This kind of system has many positive qualities, and is becoming increasingly popular in country houses and here’s why:

• more economical use of electricity - electricity costs after installing a water heated floor are reduced several times compared to using conventional electric heaters;
• rooms are heated more evenly;
• high level of safety - the risk of burns is eliminated;
• you can regulate the microclimate of the rooms (arrange a separate heating circuit for each of them);
• the ability to use any floor covering - surface heating does not exceed 30 degrees, there are no harmful emissions;
• creating coziness and comfort for residents.

This system also has disadvantages, but they are either temporary or can be tolerated:

• long and difficult process installation;
• leaks may appear, which often lead to damage to the floor covering - to eliminate leaks and repair the floor, complete dismantling of the coverings is required;
• the possibility of reducing pressure in the general heating system;
• To regulate the temperature, it is necessary to install mixers.

If it is necessary to use a heated floor with a water circuit as the main heating, it is connected to a heating boiler installed in the house. Conventional radiators are not used in this case. The boiler can be of any type - solid fuel, gas or electric. However, before using an electric boiler, it is better to first take a closer look at the electric heated floor.

Important! To avoid emergency situations in winter, you cannot turn off the water heated floor system.

Electric heated floor

Warm floors heated by electricity are a very popular heating system for a country house. Its main components are a heating cable and a thermostat, which controls the entire system.

There are two options for installing the heating cable - either laid in a cement-sand screed or directly under the floor covering. Most often, tiles are used as flooring in this case, but other materials are also possible.

Important advantage of electric underfloor heatinglies in the simplicity of its implementation. Any experienced home craftsman can design and assemble it.

ABOUT system features

After laying the heating cable and the finishing floor covering, the entire floor surface turns into a kind of heater, a sourcepleasant and soft warmth, comfortable for bare feet. It is worth noting that the air in the room does not dry out, as happens when using electric heaters of many models.

The electric floor heating system in cottages traditionally includes:

1. heating cable of the required length;
2. automatic control - temperature sensor and thermostat that turns off the heating when it reaches set temperature;
3. fastening elements used during installation;
4. heat-insulating materials.

The basis of an electric heated floor system is the heating cable. It consists of several sections equipped with special couplings for connection, double-layer insulation and a protective screen.

All connecting elements are made from materials that are not susceptible to corrosion. The cable has a 15-year warranty, but more durable cables are available, including armored and shielded. They are highly reliable and durable.

Control system and ability to automate work

The convenience of any electrically powered system lies in the possibility of a wide range of regulation, including automatic control. Electric heated floors have the same capabilities.

Simpler systems use thermostats in which the temperature is set manually, smoothly or discretely, that is, without the possibility of programming. It is quite logical and natural to use such systems in houses intended for permanent residence. At any time, owners can intervene in the operation of the system and set the desired temperature.

Programmable thermostats maintain and regulate the temperature automatically, according to a given algorithm. Such systems are convenient if people come to a country house or dacha from time to time.

Infrared heated floor

The operation of this type of heated floor is based on infrared radiation, which heats not only the floor itself, but also objects located above it.

The system has several very important advantages:

• the use of radiation, which by its nature resembles solar radiation and is perceived more naturally by humans;
• It is not the air that warms up, but the objects in the room, which then themselves begin to give off heat;
• versatility and ease of installation - thin radiant film can be mounted on walls, ceilings, under floor coverings without cement screed and special labor;
• reliability and safety;
• efficiency;
• versatility;
• quick heating of the room;
• ease of use;
• possibility of automation of control;
• long service life.

Important! As practice shows, infrared heated floors are economical and completely safe. The thin film does not require space under the floor covering and is not felt at all even under thin and soft linoleum.

The infrared heating system also has disadvantages:

• heating of furniture, leading to overheating of the film. It can be avoided by not installing film in places where furniture will be located or using furnishings on legs;
• significant energy costs when heating large rooms;
• dependence on electricity supply - relevant if the heated floor is the main or only source of heat.

Summary

The choice of the type of heated floor depends on the specific features of the country house, its area and volume of space. Important role When choosing a system, other factors also play a role:

1. features of the local climate;
2. comfort requirements;
3. availability of centralized heating from the village network;
4. functionality;
5. individual preferences.

Electric heated floors are easy to use, but installing them in a cottage is only beneficial in villages with cheap electricity and uninterrupted power supply.

The most common option for houses with centralized heating is a water heated floor. But it is also installed in cottages with autonomous heating. Infrared heating has many important advantages, and is the most modern version, although not the most economical.

They are inferior in efficiency to new ones, and central heating services are constantly becoming more expensive. Therefore, consumers are looking for an alternative to how to make heated floors in a private house with autonomous economical heating.

This technology is more economical in terms of fuel costs, it allows you to remove bulky radiators, freeing up space for other useful interior elements. Pipes under the floor covering do not spoil the appearance of the environment and do not interfere with cleaning the premises.

On the environmental side, heated floors provide ideal heat distribution for a person’s comfort. The space warms up well at a level of 1-1.5 m above the floor; higher up there is cooler air. Therefore, many are studying techniques on how to make heated floors in a private home. The simplicity of proven technologies allows you to make a heated floor with your own hands.

Types of heated floors

Long-term practice of using “warm floor” technology has shown its effectiveness: uniform distribution of heat over the entire area of ​​​​the room and. There are some restrictions: heating the flooring to more than 30-40 °C is not recommended, this will create some discomfort when walking, and you can burn your bare feet.

With a large number of rooms, high ceilings, especially in regions where low temperatures stand for a long time of the year, you should not rely entirely on the underfloor heating circuit. You can make a heated floor in your house with your own hands and use it as an additional source in the general heating system.

It is difficult to make a competent calculation of the heating system taking into account heat loss on your own. This is done by highly qualified heating engineers, and many parameters are taken into account:

• room volume;
• thickness and type of building materials of walls and flooring;
• climate zone;
• average annual temperature, wind roses and much more.

Such calculations are not cheap; it is easier to install a heated floor in a private house with your own hands, using already accumulated statistics. Practice shows that in the north of Russia in brick buildings with a thickness load-bearing walls 60 cm underfloor heating is used as additional heating. In the middle zone and southern regions, these technologies can be used as the main heating system.

There are two main designs of heated floors:

• water heated floor, where pipes are laid with liquid coolant circulating through them;
• Heating electric cables or films are laid under the floor coverings.

The exact calculation and layout of the circuit or heating cables are made taking into account what type of underfloor heating is installed and on what site.

It is not recommended to install a water heated floor from a central heating system; it is illegal. This issue needs to be coordinated with utility services, which is very difficult, and it is not a fact that everything will subsequently function reliably. It is better to make heated floors in the house from an autonomous boiler using its own fuel.

The installation of a heated floor and the calculation of the amount of heat required for the floor in a private house in a certain room are made based on practical experience. Laying cables or pipes 3-5 meters long per 1 m 2 in increments of no more than 30 cm allows the release of heat of 60-80 kW/m 2. This is enough to heat a residential private house. The premises are provided with a temperature of up to 25 °C in the middle zone and in the south of Russia with well-insulated walls and windows.

Water heated floors

The technology of water heated floors is effective in operation from an economic point of view. Payment costs compared to classic radiator system are 20-30% less. But installation of the system is labor-intensive; the design contains a large number of expensive elements and connection units.

Essential elements:

• Heating boiler: models can be electric, gas, liquid and solid fuel, hybrid options. The choice is made based on the cost and availability of energy resources in a particular region.

Warm floors in the house are especially in demand gas models, this is explained by the autonomy of this type of boiler. Gas in many regions of Russia is the most accessible and inexpensive fuel. The heating system of these boilers does not depend on central heating and water supply. It allows you to independently regulate power consumption and fuel consumption depending on your needs.

• Pipes. 3-5 m are consumed per 1 m 2 of heated surface, these standards have been determined for many years practical experience. Popular models of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, durable heat-resistant products with a material density of 60-80%. To achieve these qualities it is used different ways processing.

When irradiated with an electron flow in a magnetic field, a density of 60% is achieved, treatment with peroxide creates a crosslinking density of 75%, and with selanium gas – 65%. In any case, this density is sufficient for laying heated floors.

A good option is metal-plastic pipes, durable and heat-resistant, with three load-bearing layers and two adhesive layers.

Internal and outer layer– this is cross-linked polyethylene, the middle layer is aluminium foil 0.2-2.5 mm, hermetically welded along the entire length.

• Collector. It distributes the coolant along the circuits; this is the main heat mixing unit; all individual circuits are connected in it. A manifold is installed with as many thermal valves as there are in the circuit system. The length of the circuits is different, so the amount of coolant in them is not the same, the cooling time of the liquid in the circuits does not coincide. To maintain the set temperature, temperature sensors are installed in each circuit; they promptly control the servos, distributing hot and cooled flows in given directions.
• Thermovent. A three-way mechanical valve is often used to distribute the intensity of hot and cooled flows. For automatic control Electric drives are installed on the valve.

• Circulation pump. It is recommended to install a pump with a wet rotor; its impeller rotates and is lubricated by coolant, the operation is very quiet.

• Coolant. This could be water, antifreeze or antifreeze.

Costs will be required for waterproofing materials, thermal insulation, cement screed and flooring.

Laying sequence

In semi-basements, a preliminary screed is made on the ground, the surface is covered with sand to a depth of 5-7 cm, then with crushed stone 3-5 mm to a thickness of 8-10 cm. For vapor barrier, everything is covered plastic film, a layer of 8-10 cm is applied on top river sand with fraction screening from 0.05 to 0.1 cm.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the preliminary screed. This can be bitumen-rubber mastic; it is applied with a brush. It is easier to use adhesive rolls based on bitumen with polymer ingredients. Sheet structure – fiberglass reinforced or polyester. An insulating layer is laid on top - extruded polystyrene foam(Styrofoam). The thickness of the insulating layer in basements is 10 cm or more; on upper floors 5-10 cm is sufficient.

It is very effective to use thin elastic insulation with a reflective surface. The structure of the rolls is made of polymer filled with air bubbles, or mineral wool, layer thickness from 2 to 50 mm.

The reflective layer, 14-20 microns, comes in several structure options:

• double-sided – foil on both sides of the roll;
• one-sided;
• self-adhesive, with an adhesive surface on one side and foil on the other.

Heat-resistant metal-plastic pipes in the shape of a snake or snail are laid on the reflective insulation. Pipes are attached to special metal or plastic strips; often a metal mesh is applied to reinforce the screed and evenly distribute the load on the pipes.

The pipes are fixed to the mesh with plastic bundles, the wire on the mesh is Ø 3-4 mm, the mesh size is 5-10 cm. The concrete screed is applied 7-8 centimeters thick, it is carefully leveled, and after drying the floor covering is laid.

For heated floors, it is recommended to use a ceramic coating; it accumulates and transfers heat in the best way. When installing pipes on concrete slabs no pre-screed elements are made. The process begins with cleaning, leveling the surface and waterproofing, the rest of the operations are the same.

You cannot make a concrete screed on wooden floors, they may not support the weight and collapse. IN wooden houses Hydro- and thermal insulation is installed on the floor, logs are nailed, between which pipes are laid. Boards, plywood, chipboard are placed on the logs, after which facing coating, parquet, laminate or other materials are applied.

Electric heated floor

Less equipment is required for the installation of this structure, and installation is simpler. Absence coolant liquid significantly simplifies the entire heating system. For heating, a heating cable or infrared film is used; they are connected to electrical circuits through thermostats.

Laying heating cable and plates

In the absence of liquid coolant, waterproofing on the slabs can be eliminated, since there will be no chance of leakage. When laying on the ground, it is recommended to leave the preliminary screed and waterproofing. Such a warm, waterproofed floor in a private house will prevent the penetration of moisture from the ground into the room. Otherwise, the materials for the screed and the sequence remain the same.

The cables are laid in a similar way, like a snake or snail. To warm well-insulated rooms to +18-25 ̊C, 150-200 W/1m2 is required, if you take 3-5 m of cable per 1m2, the laying step will be 10-30 cm. The temperature threshold for rooms is calculated based on their functional purpose , in the bathroom it’s warmer – up to +25 ̊С, in the hall – +20 ̊С. Manufacturers make different cables; when purchasing, you need to ask how much power 1 linear meter consumes.

Infrared plates are produced in rolls of width 800 mm, 500 mm and 1 meter, length 0.7-15 m. They are fixed to thermal insulation coating thermal tape, laid 20 cm from the walls and no closer than 6 mm from each other, connected in parallel to a 220V network.

The power consumption of the plates is 45-65 W/m 2 *h, this is the amount of electricity consumed by 1 m 2 of film per hour, the melting temperature of the insulating film on the plates is 130 ̊C. There are ready-made mats, insulation with a reflective layer is attached to them on infrared plates, the width of such products is 83 cm, length is 1-12 m.

It is imperative to take into account the installation locations of furniture and large household appliances ( washing machine, refrigerator, cabinets) indoors. It is not recommended to lay cables and plates under them.

Laying of heating cables and plates should be planned on the free surface of the floor covering. This will reduce the load on heat sources, and the space in the room will be heated more efficiently.

Connecting electrical heating elements

There are different types of cables:

• Single-wire - not divided into parts, produced at a certain power and length. After installation, they are connected to the network through a thermostat, with opposite ends;

• Two-wire cables are closed at one end, which is hermetically sealed with a plastic cap. The other end with two wires is connected to the network through a thermostat; the cable is not cut into pieces.

• Two-wire self-regulating cable– cut into pieces in certain places. A film matrix located along the entire length between the copper conductors works as a thermostat. Resistance changes with temperature environment. Current begins to flow between the wires in places where the temperature is below +5 ̊C. The lower the temperature around the cable, the greater the current and heating of the cable. Such models are expensive.

Thermostats

Manufacturers offer many different types:

• Mechanical (analog) regulators are the simplest and most reliable.

• Digital - with liquid crystal displays, which display several parameters: the temperature of the floor covering, the air in the room, and sometimes the current time.

• Digital programmable thermostats - allow you to set a specific temperature at different time day (day - night) or by day of the week. In the absence of people, the temperature drops and rises before arrival, this makes the operating mode more economical.

• Thermostats with remote control can be controlled by a remote control in the infrared range, like on TVs, via a radio channel. More expensive models work over the GSM network, over the Internet online, and are controlled from an iPhone, tablet or PC, from any place where there is a cellular connection or cable Internet.

Thermostats differ in their controls: in mechanical models, the wire resistance is changed by a moving contact on a plastic disk in the device body.

In digital regulators, the resistance is changed by a microcircuit, which includes an electronic switching relay. Control can be carried out by mechanical buttons or touch segments on the display, as on mobile iPhones or tablets.

Regardless of the thermostat model, the control units are connected according to a typical scheme to elements with the same functional purpose:

• to 220V network;
• to the heating cable;
• to one or more temperature sensors;
• through grounding.

For safety reasons everything electrical systems heating system in a private household is connected to the network in the control panel through a short circuit protection circuit breaker and an RCD (touch protection device).

Bottom line

Technologies for installing heated floors provide many different installation options. To determine the appropriate method and best materials, we must proceed from financial capabilities, take into account the climatic conditions of the location of the object and functional purpose premises.