The thuja has turned yellow and dried out, what should I do? Thuja turned yellow after winter, what to do?

What to do if the thuja turns yellow

Some summer residents do not know what to do if the thuja turns yellow and what is the reason, so they are perplexed when such a problem arises. If nothing is done, she will die. There are several ways to get out of this situation.

What caused the thuja to turn yellow?

The yellow color of conifer needles does not always indicate a disease; sometimes it is the fault of the gardener himself or the influence of an environmental factor.

Source: Depositphotos

What to do if the thuja turns yellow: rational watering and correct feeding everything will be decided

A tree can change color:

• due to seasonal changes;
• improper care;
• natural processes;
• improper landing;
• damage by harmful insects and diseases;
• animals.

During winter and frost, the thuja may turn yellow. This is how it reacts to temperature fluctuations. In spring everything returns to normal. If it is planted in the sun, then common reason- burns. Do not forget that after 5–6 years the needles die off, since nothing lasts forever. Some parts turn yellow and fall off, and new ones grow in their place. If the soil in which the thuja grows is sandy, clayey or peaty with stagnant water, then the plant will sooner or later begin to deteriorate. Best soil composition- turf soil with sand and peat.

Thuja loves moisture, but not excessive waterlogging. In the first case, yellowness appears due to drought, in the second, rotting of the rhizome occurs. The root collar should not be allowed to deepen; it should be located level with the surface of the earth. Planting thujas nearby is contraindicated; lack of light and space will destroy them. Excessive fertilizing or lack thereof also has a detrimental effect on the plant.

Often yellowing is caused by animal feces near the tree, as well as by the invasion of fungal diseases and aphids.

How to save thuja

To avoid changes in the growth, development and appearance of the thuja, first of all choose the right one seat. Partial shade, never a sunny area. During planting, do not bury the root collar. To prevent an invasion harmful insects, treat the plant with an insecticide in early spring. "Aktellik", "Aktara" or "Enzhio" will do.

To prevent diseases or relieve them, use:

• Bordeaux mixture;
• solution copper sulfate 5% - branches are sprayed or lubricated;
• foundationol - diluted 5:5.

Carry out the treatment in spring and autumn.

Regular and proper watering. During drought - twice a week, using 15 liters of water. On a normal day - 1 time, 10 l.

Fertilize also in moderation, 4 times from April to August is enough. To do this, fill the manure with water (1:4) and leave to infuse for two weeks. For one thuja - 3 l. Alternate this feeding after 3-4 weeks with complex mineral fertilizers - "Epina", "Bioud" or "Idol-universal".

So that the tree does not acquire yellow, monitor the condition of the soil, regularity of watering, carry out preventive spraying with special preparations against pests and diseases.

When growing thuja, many gardeners are faced with the problem of changing the color of the needles of this ornamental plant: It takes on an unsightly brown or yellow color. The tree begins to dry out, shed its needles and, ultimately, may die. So why does the thuja turn yellow? What are the reasons and what to do to avoid this?

Spring sunburn

This is one of the most common causes of discoloration in many coniferous plants, including thuja.

In early spring, the snow on the site still lies in a fairly thick, even layer, and the sun begins to get hotter every day. The sun's rays are reflected from the snow blanket as if from a mirror, and their intensity also increases. After winter, the thuja is weakened, its needles are very tender and sensitive, so the plant easily receives sunburn.

What to do if the thuja has already received a sunburn.

If the thuja has already turned yellow, shade and sufficient watering can save it. Don’t worry, the plant will come to life over time, grow new needles and acquire its natural color.

And in order to avoid similar situations in the future and protect the plant from the aggressive effects of spring sun rays, he needs to create comfortable conditions. At the end of winter, cover the thuja with sunny side spruce branches (spruce branches) or covering material that allows air to pass through well but protects from light.

Fungal diseases

Coniferous plants are susceptible to fungal diseases. The needles of a sick plant turn yellow and fall off. Therefore, immediately after the thuja is planted in the ground, it needs to be treated with a solution of foundationazole (take 10 g of the drug per 10 liters of water). This procedure can be repeated periodically to prevent the disease.

Dried branches of the plant must be trimmed, and the cut itself must be coated with a solution of copper sulfate (5%).

Bordeaux mixture will also help cope with fungal diseases of thuja. But one procedure alone is not enough. For preventive purposes, the plant must be sprayed at least 2 times a year: in early spring and before the first autumn frosts.

Aphid

Incorrect landing

Experienced gardeners know that sometimes thuja needles turn yellow and fall off due to improper planting depth of the tree. This is a very common mistake. When planting a thuja, its bark neck is often buried or, conversely, exposed.

Rules of care

Proper care of conifers is no less important.

After planting a thuja in the ground, the first thing you need to do is protect it from the sun and create shade - a weakened plant needs strength to take root in a new place. Then the soil around the thuja needs to be mulched.

Watering

After planting in the soil, the tree must be watered once a week for 1 month (10 liters of water per plant). During the dry period, watering is carried out more often, 2 times a week (15-20 liters of water per plant).

If the sun is very hot, then the thuja needles must be sprayed with water. But you can’t do this on a hot afternoon: droplets of water on the needles turn into small lenses, and the needles can get sunburned. Spray the plant in the morning or late afternoon.

If thuja is grown in an area with high level occurrence groundwater, then the plant can do without watering.

Mulching

Mulching the soil is carried out with compost, sawdust, peat or wood chips.

To avoid drying out and overheating of the soil in hot weather summer period or soil freezing in winter, a 5-centimeter layer of these materials is poured around the thuja.

Feeding thuja

Thuja must be properly and timely fed with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Manure is most often used as “organic matter”; it is filled with water (1:4) and infused for two weeks. One plant requires 2-3 liters of this infusion. It should not be poured onto the base of the trunk, but onto the soil around the tree. The larger the thuja, the larger the radius of the circle of cultivated soil should be.

As mineral fertilizers It is good to use the preparations “Bioud” (for 1 tree 1 kg of fertilizer, used up to three times per season), “Idol-universal” (for 1 square meter 120 g of the drug), Epin solution (1 ampoule of the drug per 5 liters of water).

Important: the plant cannot be fed before winter. Thuja is preparing to rest - the growth of shoots stops, they ripen. And feeding will stimulate the growth of the tree; young shoots will go into the winter weak and may die. Therefore August - last month when thuja is fed before wintering.

Tree pruning and decorative shaping

Dry thuja branches are pruned every spring, before the vegetative process begins. This allows you to maintain the size and shape of the plant, which is especially important if the thuja is grown as a hedge.

Tree formation begins as soon as it reaches the right size. To keep the plant strong and viable, you need to trim no more than one third of the shoot.

Wintering

There is no need to cover an adult, strong thuja for the winter. She is not afraid of snow and frost. However, heavy snowfalls can damage the dense crown of the plant. To prevent this from happening, at the end of autumn, in case of a snowy winter, the crown of the thuja can be strengthened. Large trees can be tied together with a tie, thujas in the shape of a ball can be tied together with twine. Thujas shaped like a column or pin-shaped, which have several crowns, can also be lightly tied with twine.

However, it is necessary to provide shelter for young specimens planted in autumn, and also not to forget about shelter in order to protect against burns.

If you follow these simple tips, then you can grow beautiful, strong decorative tree, which will become a worthy decoration of the garden.

The most common diseases of thuja and methods of combating them

Not only pests are dangerous for thujas. If not properly cared for and watered, they can be susceptible to disease. It is worth considering the main ones: how they are characteristic, and how to cure your favorite trees from them.

Late blight

Late blight is considered the most famous and dangerous fungal disease of thuja. It's a disease of the root that destroys it upper layer. This is reflected in the appearance of the thuja as follows: it withers, turns gray, and the lower part of the trunk becomes soft to the touch. The tissue under the bark will turn brown and a coating will appear underneath. The root becomes brittle and smells rotten.

Basically, late blight affects thujas growing on soil that is poorly drained; the water here often stagnates.

Treatment

To prevent late blight, it is necessary to frequently water the thuja with fungicides. If the disease nevertheless reaches it and the roots fester, it is best to destroy the tree and replace the soil, since this fungus is still for a long time can live.

This is a fungal disease that appears in early spring. You can notice it by its yellowed scales. At a late stage of development, the disease affects the entire shoot and it dies.

How to overcome it?

To protect the thuja from this disease, it is constantly fed, and the roots are also sprinkled with limestone. During the period July-October until October itself, it is advisable to spray the thuja with Fundazol (2% solution) every 2 weeks. If you see at least one affected shoot, it should be cut out immediately, and then the disease will not spread further.

If the bark is covered with yellow ulcers that gradually grow and increase in size, your tree has contracted the false scale insect. Treatment should be started immediately, otherwise this disease will cause spots to cover the entire trunk and it will die.

How to treat?

In order to destroy the false scale insect, the following means are used: Rogor, Karbofos, Actellik, Antio.

There are also traditional methods. To prevent this disease, you can wrap the trunk with straw or burlap. Treat the branches with a soap solution containing denatured alcohol (15 grams of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 liter warm water). Another way is to apply special caterpillar glue to the surface (this will prevent pests from reaching it).

Once you notice just a few larvae, try simply brushing them off with a brush or knife without damaging the bark.

Schutte and rust

Fungal diseases manifested by darkening and falling of needles. They begin in the spring and spread throughout the year. Mostly young trees are affected.

How to remove rust and shutte? The best drugs for prevention

To stop the development of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and burn them to prevent it from spreading to other coniferous trees. But this doesn't always help.

It is best to treat affected trees with HOM. The consumption rate of the drug is 40 g/10 l of water. This solution should be sprayed on the affected trees twice a season: in the spring (May) and in the summer when the disease reappears. Since both schutte and rust are common to all conifers, it is worth carrying out preventive treatment of the rest of the conifers (all, without exception). It is carried out with the same HOM in the same dose, but only once in the spring.

If there is no effect, you need to shed the trunk circles of the affected trees with Fundazol. The consumption rate of the drug is 20 g/10 l of water - a solution (0.2%) is obtained, which is poured onto the trunk circle of the affected tree once per growing season. There is no need to spray the trees with it, only the soil to destroy the infection in it.

Topsin-M is also used from Schutte: the consumption rate of the drug is 15 g/10 l of water, this solution is consumed for 1 mature plant. Spraying is carried out once in the spring after the threat of night frosts has passed.

Instead of HOM, you can buy Bordeaux mixture. This is an old, but very effective and proven remedy, suitable for many cultures. You don't have to buy it.

Homemade Bordeaux mixture recipe

It's easy to prepare it yourself. The purchased bag contains lime and copper sulfate. This means that to prepare ten liters of a one percent solution you will need 100 g of lime and 100 g of vitriol.

It is prepared like this:

1. In glass or wooden utensils(in no case with iron or plastic!) Vitriol (copper sulfate) is diluted. Add up to five liters of water, do the same with lime in another container;
2. The diluted vitriol is carefully poured into slaked lime;
3. Stirs. You should get a light blue liquid;
4. To understand whether we have poured in a sufficient amount of copper sulfate, we need to take an iron object that is not covered with rust (for example, a knife) and lower it to the bottom of our liquid. The appearance of a red coating means too much;
5. This can be easily fixed by adding lime. It is necessary to check, otherwise you can burn the plants.

With this working solution, preventive spraying can be carried out every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l/100 m².

Bottom line

Proper care and timely help will protect and cure your thuja from many possible diseases and pests. But it is also important to remember that shedding and yellowing of needles does not necessarily signal the appearance of some kind of disease.

Thuja often changes color and sheds its needles at the end of the growing season. Appearance may indicate that it is dying. But in fact, it is simply preparing for winter, and the change in the color of the needles is just its protective reaction.

You may be interested in the following information:

- thuja pests and methods of combating them;

Thuja is one of the excellent decorative and useful plants for your garden or plot.

It has the property of disinfecting the air and releasing phytoncides, which improves immunity.

There are five types of thuja: Western, Korean, Sichuan, folded and Japanese.

It can be either a low-growing shrub or a tree up to 15 meters in height.

Thuja, distribution and application

This evergreen Perfectly decorates any landscape all year round. Coniferous trees or shrubs take root well in different regions. Most species are frost-resistant specimens. They often tolerate frosts down to -30 degrees. The plant grows well in cities with polluted air. In different climatic zones, except for the far north and very frosty areas. The most popular is the western thuja; it is most resistant to frost.

Planting and care must be correct to prevent the thuja from drying out.

Thuja is a non-capricious plant. It is not difficult to care for her. It is undemanding to soil and moisture and tolerates decorative pruning. Loves light, but not constant sun. Therefore, it is best to plant it in partial shade.

During the first time after planting, the plant will require care; subsequent growth and health depend on this.

Young seedlings require regular watering in the evening or in the morning (1, 2 times every 10 days depending on weather conditions) and spraying - sprinkling once a week).

Mulching. The root circle is covered with sawdust, spruce branches, and peat. This will prevent the soil from drying out. In summer, mulching protects the plant from the sun and in winter from freezing.

Loosening around the seedling is necessary for good growth and development. But this is done to a depth of no more than 10 cm, since its roots are in the surface layer.

IN winter period The crown of the thuja is tied to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of snow.

Feed the tree once a year. If the first time is when planting, then the next one will be in a year or two. It is good to add the growth regulator Epin (1 ampoule per 10 liters) when planting.

The thuja has dried up, why is this happening?

The following weather reasons can lead to this:

Severe frosts: some plant varieties are not very frost-resistant and may freeze,

The sun can burn young plants, so partial shade is better for planting,

If it seems to you that the thuja has dried up, then you need to know that every 3-6 years in the fall, the scales of its needles tend to die off, but new ones grow in the spring. In this case, you just need to clean off the dead scales.

In addition, thuja can disappear even when following conditions:

Insufficient watering, the plant needs to be watered regularly, but not overwatered: after planting - once a week, and in dry weather - 2 times a week, in an amount of about 10 liters per tree,

Overdose of chemical fertilizers or preparations; the plant should be fed two years after planting at the rate of 100 g per m2 of mineral fertilizers, and 2-3 liters of organic fertilizers. It is not recommended to use fresh manure; you can use rotted manure for six months, leave the slurry for at least 10 days and pour it under the plant, diluting it with water.

The presence of rodents in the soil: moles, mole crickets, and a nearby anthill.

Why did the thuja dry up? Diseases and pests of thuja

Thuja, in addition, may be subject to some diseases and pest invasions. As a result, it can dry out and disappear.

These are diseases such as late blight, brown shoots, rust and schutte. Among the dangerous pests are: thuja false scale, thuja moth, wireworm, thuja pine beetle, spider mite.

Thuja diseases and ways to combat them

Late blight

This is dangerous for all plants fungal disease, which affects first the root, then the upper part. It looks like this: the tree withers, then the leaves appear gray in color, the trunk softens from below. The root begins to emit a putrid odor. It is usually difficult to cure plants affected by late blight, but you can try.

To protect the plant from this disease it is worth:

1. Choose the right place for planting thuja, so that it is not in a place with constant high humidity, and the soil had good drainage properties.

2. Water seedlings and large-sized plants more often with fungicides.

3. If the above measures do not help, then it is worth destroying the tree (bush), and replacing the soil where it grew, or you can pour boiling water on it.

Brown shoots

This disease manifests itself in the browning of shoots and their death. This often happens from poor nutrition. First the scales turn yellow, then the shoots turn brown and the branches die.

For treatment you need:

1. cut off the affected shoots,

2. constantly add limestone under the root,

3. feed regularly,

4. In summer and early autumn, constantly spray thuja with fungicidal agents.

In addition, browning may occur due to poor access nutrients to the root system. This can happen due to fusarium or tracheomycosis. In these cases, it should be treated with foundationazole or other similar preparations, both at the root and by spraying the crown.

Preventive treatment with zircon helps protect plants from fungal diseases.

Rust and shutte

With these fungal diseases, the crown darkens and the needles fall off. Young seedlings mostly suffer from rust. For preventive purposes, it is worth cutting off the affected shoots and burning them to prevent the disease from spreading.

For protection and treatment you need:

Treatment with copper-containing preparations, for example, HOM or Bordeaux mixture;

As the disease progresses, the tree trunk circles should be sprayed with foundationazole, which should not be sprayed, but used only for watering.

Thuja pests and how to deal with them

Arborvitae moth

Its larvae begin to gnaw through tree branches, as a result of which they die. This is why the thuja often dries out.

To protect against it, they are sprayed with preparations containing pyrethroids. These are Fumitox Moskitol Anti-mite, Anti-mite, Tornado Anti-mite. Moreover, this must be done several times every week.

Thuja false scale

A small insect of light yellow color. When adults die off, larvae remain. When affected by this pest, wilting and drying out of the needles and the entire plant is observed.

For protection, treatment is carried out with Commander-Aktara twice from the end of May to mid-June with an interval of 7-12 days and with Champion fungicide - twice. Or Karbofos. You can also wrap the plant's trunk with burlap or straw. In autumn - use the drug Decis

Wireworm

The larvae of this pest infect root system. You can get rid of them by digging up the soil around the tree trunk.

Thuja beetle

If this pest has already appeared on the plant, then it is better to get rid of the plant itself. These bugs gnaw through the bark of a tree and lay eggs under it. The plant dies within a month. There are no methods to combat it yet. Only prevention is possible with Actara or Clipper.

Spider mite

This insect is especially dangerous in the summer heat. Its larvae damage needles. Signs of a tick infestation are a thin web on the branches, and small scales appear yellow spots, subsequently turning into brown dead areas.

Protection and prevention from the pest consists of treating it several times with Actofit or Atkelit. Additionally, it is worth feeding the plant with fertilizers containing magnesium sulfate

If the thuja has dried up and the reasons have not been established, what should you do?

If you do not find the reasons for the drying out of trees, then you can use Epin. You can spray the plant with this drug every two weeks and see how it behaves throughout the year. Perhaps he can be saved.

If the tree is young, try replanting it. Perhaps he just doesn't like the place. When replanting, carefully inspect the roots, cut off rotten and damaged ones, and treat them with Kornevin.

Proper care, preventative treatments and targeted assistance in case of diseases and pests will help keep the thuja beautiful and healthy for a long time.

After planting thuja in the garden you expect the tree to grow, begin to turn green, and please the eye, but instead the thuja turns yellow after planting, perhaps even drying out in places. Why does thuja turn yellow after planting? and what to do to revive it, you will learn in today's article. If the question remains relevant to you, continue reading.

Usually the thuja turns yellow natural reasons, for example, in the fall, preparing for a state of dormancy. Any novice gardener understands that this is a completely normal process, but what can be said about the noticeable yellowing of the thuja after planting in the spring?

The yellowing of thuja can be affected by various factors - acquired ( improper care) or natural (changes in weather conditions).

Why does thuja turn yellow after planting:

• Lack/stagnation of moisture;
• Unsuitable soil mixture;
• Illiterate care;
• Changes in weather conditions;

Moisture in soil mixture is maintained depending on the type of components that make up the planting substrate. When planting thuja in open ground You should adhere to certain rules:

It is best to plant thuja in well-drained sod land, flavored with sand and peat in moderate volumes.

Why does the thuja turn yellow:

• Availability of groundwater, which lead to rotting of the roots and, as a result, disruption of the surface system.
• Lack of hydration– drying of thuja.
• Thickened planting, lack of moisture, air and nutrients for each tree.
• Excessive lighting and exposure to direct sunlight - a straw color acquires, noticeable partial yellowing in places of strong sun exposure.
• Roadside thujas turn yellow from salts, components, and cleaning reagents.
• Nutrient deficiencies– fasting due to insufficient feeding. In addition to yellowness, thuja acquires a brown, purple tint on the edges of the leaves.
• Temperature drop or its jumps, air temperature below -20° C – browning and yellowing of parts of the thuja.

Thuja diseases: why does the thuja turn yellow after planting

Pathogenic bacteria and fungi that destroy the root system and bark of the thuja also cause changes in the color of the branches.

Thuja diseases:

• Brown Schutte (stormy snow mold);
• Necrosis (fungal disease);
• Stem rot;

Brown Schutte settles on young thujas. The disease appears in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. The mycelium of snow mold appears as a black coating, then spreads pointwise to other branches. First of all, the thinnest shoots die off.

Necrosis of cortical tissue and branches begins due to fungal infection. First, the lower branches change color, after which the yellowness spreads to the upper shoots. Sporulations in the form of dark dots or gray-black tubercles (1-2 mm in diameter) are localized on the bark. Mycelium spreads when there is an abundance of moisture.

The defeat of thuja may be due to the appearance stem rot. In this case, any change in the color of the thuja without apparent other reasons may indicate the presence of a disease.