Wither the leaves on a garden rose. What ails the “queen” of the garden: why do the leaves of the rose fall? Diseases and pests that cause rose leaves to turn yellow

Roses require almost no attention if they grow in open ground. In indoor conditions, the plant needs to be cared for in a certain way. Fresh air, abundant watering and high humidity are the key to ensuring that the rose's leaves do not turn yellow.

Article outline

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, many varieties have appeared that fit perfectly into any interior. Homemade roses are as beautiful as garden roses. The variety of shades, delicate aroma and neat appearance have ensured the plant great popularity. Miniature, hybrid tea and polyanthus varieties are grown indoors.

Miniature roses reach a height of 40 cm. They have a compact bush shape, lush foliage and fragrant flowers. Hybrid tea roses appeared as a result of crossing tea varieties with remontant ones. They are resistant to negative conditions. Hybrid tea varieties have elastic buds and large double flowers with a pleasant aroma. Polyantha roses are the product of crossing tea and climbing varieties. Low bushes with small shoots can bloom all year round.

Indoors, the rose becomes a rather capricious plant. All kinds of pests and diseases, as well as improper microclimate, are the main reasons why indoor rose leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Optimal conditions of detention

Lighting

In order for the plant to grow and develop, it will require good lighting. Rose needs 5-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. The best option would be a west window. During short daylight hours, the plant may require lighting. The fluorescent lamp is left on for several hours.

The bush is periodically turned towards the light so that it forms symmetrically. In summer, the rose is taken out onto the balcony or terrace. If possible, it is better to transplant the flower into open ground for the entire summer period.

Frequent watering

The rose requires abundant watering. Water is added as soon as the soil in the pot dries out. For irrigation, use settled water at room temperature. In winter, the number of waterings is reduced to once a week.

The plant tolerates coolness well, but high temperatures can provoke the development of diseases. Heat is the reason why leaves turn yellow. Temperatures should be moderate in summer and cool in winter.

Rose loves high humidity

In dry weather, the pot can be sprayed several times a day. If the flower is given a dormant period for the winter, then spraying is not required. Place a tray with pebbles under the pot. You can dissolve special fertilizers, such as “Cascade”, in boiled water and moisten the bushes with them.

For good development, roses require a nutrient substrate. It includes turf, humus, sand and peat. Soil acidity should be neutral or slightly acidic. Store-bought soil is diluted with sand or perlite.

For the winter, the plant is given a dormant period. The shoots are shortened to ten centimeters, and the pot itself is transferred to a room with a temperature of 0˚ C. In early spring, as soon as the sun begins to shine more actively, the rose will emerge from hibernation and quickly begin to sprout shoots. Rested bushes quickly form buds.

Improper care is the most common cause of yellowing leaves

The most common reason why a rose sheds its leaves is a violation of the regime.

Poor watering will cause the bush to stop growing and turn yellow. Using hard chlorinated water will cause many problems, including yellow spots on leaves.

Excessive direct sunlight can burn the plant. Spraying during the scorching sun damages the foliage in the same way. A clear sign of a lack of lighting is yellowing of the leaves on the shaded side.

Excess water washes out the roots. Because of this, the entire plant suffers, but first of all, the color of the green mass changes. Too much or too little fertilizer can change the color of the plant. The most important elements influencing the full development of a rose:

A biostimulant, for example „ “ or „ “, should be periodically added. These drugs activate the protective functions of plants, developing immunity to aggressive environmental conditions.

Rose pests also cause leaves to turn yellow

Houseplants often suffer from attacks by harmful insects.

Spider mite on a rose

The red-colored insect settles on the underside of the leaf, entangling the shoots with a web. The foliage turns yellow and dries out; young shoots die off completely. Infection occurs from a new plant in the apartment or due to dry air.

Frequent bathing is a good prevention of the disease. Cover the ground with polyethylene and place the pot under running warm water.

Rose leafhopper

White-yellow insects with wings settle on the underside of the leaf. Lightened spots appear on the foliage. Over time, the leaves fall off, which slows down the growth and development of the flower. The leafhopper reproduces quickly at high temperatures; She is a carrier of viral diseases.

Moving insects are invisible to the naked eye. They easily fly to other flowers, causing an entire epidemic. Thrips feed on rose sap. The leaves become covered with dark spots and become deformed. Dry air and high temperatures contribute to rapid development.

It is necessary to constantly maintain high air humidity. The plant is isolated from healthy ones, the place where the pot stood is treated with an insecticide solution. Actellik works the most efficiently. The increased dose of the drug is diluted with anti-flea shampoo. It is necessary to spill the soil in the pot.

Rose diseases

Unfavorable conditions cause infectious, viral or fungal diseases. Periodic examination will allow you to notice this or that ailment and cope with it at an early stage.

Rust

The fungus attacks the entire plant. Rusty growths appear on the underside of the leaf, from which spores spread. The bush itself becomes depleted. Diseased parts must be removed. The rose can be thinned out to provide fresh air.

Such preparations as „“, and work well against rust. The interval between treatments is two weeks.

Black spot

The bush is covered with brown spots of irregular shape, which gradually merge. Prevention plays an important role in the fight: regular inspection, proper feeding. Infected shoots and leaves are removed, and the rose is treated with immunostimulants.

The rose is called the queen of flowers for its delicate buds, velvety petals and perfect shape. People often compare other flowers to the beauty of a rose. Hibiscus was named Chinese rose because it is similar in appearance.

This plant is quite unpretentious, but the leaves of the Chinese rose often turn yellow. There are several reasons for this. Hibiscus loves light, but the pot should be protected from direct sunlight in the morning.

The optimal temperature for existence is 20˚C. The plant will not develop if the pot is placed in a cool room. The Chinese rose is watered as the soil dries. Excess moisture in the cool season leads to yellowing of the foliage. Do not leave the pot in a draft.

Excessive application of fertilizers will cause irreparable harm. Hibiscus is attacked by several types of insects:

• scale insect,
• spider mite

Common diseases include chlorosis, which is caused by a lack of microelements, as well as vascular wilting.

Timely treatment with chemicals will help avoid problems with Chinese roses. The lush bush will bloom throughout the year, delighting others with its bright colors.

Currently, amateur floriculture is widespread. Summer residents strive to breed as wide a range of flowering plants as possible. A well-chosen combination of them makes it possible to have flowers in the garden from early spring to late autumn. Roses rightfully occupy the most honorable place in a flower garden.

Phyllosticosis - rose leaf disease

Roses came to us from ancient times from the royal parks and safely migrated to the front gardens of amateur gardeners. This queen of flowers is beautiful and gentle, and, like any fragile creature, she is very much influenced by the environment, often unfavorable. As a result, the plants begin to get sick.

Currently, breeders have developed a large number of rose varieties with good resistance to infections. But it is impossible to completely avoid infection of flowers due to the influence of unfavorable factors. Phyllosticosis is one of the most unpleasant diseases of roses, as infected plants become unsightly and unsightly. This fungal disease manifests itself in the form of spotting of leaves and stems. Their color can be brownish-brown or gray-white.

Foci of phyllosticosis can be scattered throughout the leaf. The spots are round, oval or irregular in shape. The brown markings are dark brown in the center and slightly purple along the edges. With further development of the disease, the middle of the spot becomes ash-gray, it dries out and a hole appears on the leaf (as if burned). The causative agent of brown spot is the fungus Phyllosticta rosae Desm.

With gray-white phyllostictosis, a tiny black body forms in the center of the lesion - this is the wintering stage of the causative fungus. Affected leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely, and spores almost always remain in them for a long time. Therefore, it is better to burn all fallen leaves in the fall.

Phytollosticosis of roses spreads through:

• water for irrigation;
• contaminated soil;
• organic fertilizers from compost pits and manure heaps;
• with the wind (from sick plants to healthy ones).

Favorable factors for the development of this disease are air temperatures above +25ºС and high humidity.

How to deal with the disease: fungicides and traditional medicines

If a focus of phyllostictosis is detected, it is necessary to immediately remove damaged leaves and stems or cut off with a knife the part that has been damaged by the virus.

What means to treat

A fresh cut should be immediately sprinkled with crushed activated carbon powder. After finishing work, wash your hands well and disinfect the tool blade with alcohol.

At the initial stage of phyllostictosis, these measures may be quite sufficient to stop the development of the disease. But if it progresses, you must immediately seek help from fungicides. These can be drugs such as Ikstra, Abiga-Pik, Strobi. The aqueous solution is prepared strictly according to the instructions and immediately before use.

Also good helpers for treating rose leaves are preparations containing triazole (this is Topaz and Skor) and mancozeb (this is Ridomil Gold or Profit). They must be applied alternately, with an interval of one week. Processing should be done three times.

Folk remedy

The folk method gives a good result in the fight against phyllostictosis; it consists in preparing a solution:

1. You will need 200-300g of soap (you can use liquid soap) and 30g of copper sulfate.
2. First, the soap is dissolved in a liter of warm or hot water during the day;
3. There is no need to soak copper sulfate, but you shouldn’t add it to the soap mixture; it’s better to stir it in 100-200g of water;
4. Then copper sulfate is carefully poured into the stirred soapy liquid.

To prevent the mixture from coagulating (when using hard, untreated water from wells and wells), 5 g of soda must be added to the solution. Then they begin to spray the diseased bushes.

Preventive treatment of rose leaves against phyllostictosis

It should be remembered that phyllostictosis is easier to prevent than to treat. In this case, prevention comes first.

There are the following measures to help prevent the disease:

• In late autumn, before covering the roses for the winter, the bushes and the ground around them must be treated with a 3% solution of iron sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. You can also use the drug Topsin-M. Repeated treatment is carried out in the spring, before flowering begins;
• It is necessary to regularly inspect the bushes and remove wilted leaves and stems;
• Moderate watering is recommended, since excessively moist soil is an ideal habitat for the phyllosticosis fungus. The temperature of the liquid is very important: the water should be warm, since cold water can cause stress to the plants;
• For a rose garden, it is necessary to allocate well-lit areas, since shading leads to a depressed state and weakening of the bushes;
• Good air circulation in the rose garden is also important: flowers should not be enclosed with tall bushes and fences. Ventilation creates a favorable microclimate for plant development;
• It is recommended to regularly feed the bushes with organic and mineral fertilizers, which promotes excellent vegetation and strengthens the plant’s immune system;
• To prevent phyllostictosis, you can use the drug Fitosporin-M. It will help protect the flower garden from diseases caused by fungi and bacteria.

Compliance with this small set of measures will help create the most comfortable conditions for plants in the garden or greenhouse. A beautiful and well-groomed rose garden will smell sweet and delight you with abundant blooms until late autumn, and tactile communication with flowers will give you a sea of ​​positive energy.

Bottom line

Phyllosticosis is a serious leaf disease that gives plants an unsightly appearance. This disease can be treated with medications, but the best thing is timely and correct prevention, which must begin from the very planting of roses.

Rose diseases and their treatment video

WHY ROSE LEAVES TURN YELLOW - all the reasons in detail Surely many of us have observed one or another yellowing of the leaves of our favorite roses. Let's take a closer look at the possible causes of yellowing and methods of treatment or control! If we exclude the natural, age-related aging of leaves and the yellowing associated with it, then we can divide the causes of unnatural color changes into several groups. Lack or excess of nutrients. One of the most common reasons for yellowing of rose leaves is nutritional imbalances, which occur with enviable consistency. Some people don’t pay attention to such yellowing at all, but the plant clearly feels unwell! Nitrogen. In first place among the reasons, one can probably put banal nitrogen starvation of the plant. Let’s say we planted a rose on rather poor, sandy soil, or simply did not pay due attention to all the feedings during the season. So, if we fed the rose well in the spring, it gained strength and bloomed beautifully, and then consumed all the nitrogen, then in the second half of summer we will get premature “autumn” yellowing of the leaves and August leaf fall. A lack of nitrogen is easy to determine, because the yellowing is gradual, with increasing speed, starts from the lower leaves. At first you may not pay attention - just think a couple of leaves have turned yellow. Then the lowest leaves fall off, and the bush remains yellow to the middle... Then the bush is already all pale green... And only then do many people get scared. The second sign of nitrogen deficiency, rather insignificant and “spring,” will be the yellowing of young shoots. Also, instead of a dark purple color, the shoots may grow pale red-yellow, brown-yellow, etc., and the leaves on these shoots also, instead of a rich red, have a rather yellowish-green color. Of course, nitrogen deficiency is easy to check as well. and eliminate. Just dilute carbamide (urea) - a tablespoon per bucket, and pour half a bucket onto the bush. You can pour directly over the leaves. In 2-3 days improvements will already be visible, and in a week and a half the rose should turn green. Potassium. With a lack of potassium, first the edge of the leaf turns yellow, and then it turns brown and dries out (marginal burn). This can be easily corrected by using ash and other potash fertilizers. Microelements - iron and manganese. With a lack of any of these microelements, chlorosis of the leaves occurs, yellowing between the veins. The vein itself remains green. (with a lack of nitrogen, the entire leaf turns yellow evenly). Such yellowing due to a lack of iron begins with the upper, young leaves, and due to a lack of manganese - with the old ones. Typically, a lack of iron and manganese is observed on soils with a Ph reaction above 7-7.5, that is, on alkaline soils, rich in chalk, dolomite, or if you accidentally poured out too much lime for calculation. Such chlorosis is treated by spraying the leaves with a solution of fertilizers containing the necessary microelements + bringing the pH of the soil to a normal, slightly acidic reaction (from 5.6 to 7.0). You can acidify the soil with organic fertilizers, such as mullein. It will be enough to make a hole on one side of the bush, in the area where the roots are accessible (with a stake, a shovel handle, etc.), and pour a quarter-bucket worth of mullein solution into it. Some of the roots will have access to this more acidic soil, this is usually enough. Overflow, soaking. Sometimes the leaves may turn yellow due to the roots being in too damp soil for too long. This happens in low, clayey areas in damp, rainy years. The symptoms are very similar to a lack of nitrogen - the leaves turn yellow, starting from the lower ones, but fertilizing with nitrogen does not help at all. If you have a low-lying area, then we can only advise planting the rose on mounds or raised flower beds. Diseases. The most common unwanted guest in our gardens is black spot. Many people don’t even consider it a disease, they think that “that’s how it should be, these are old leaves...”. But no, unfortunately, this is a fungal disease that affects almost all old and many modern varieties of roses. That’s what it is, black spot. Are you surprised? It’s clear that a bush with leaves that have fallen prematurely as a result of damage will survive the winter worse and will bloom and grow weaker. If you see yellow leaves with black, more or less round or blot-shaped spots, that’s what it is, black spotting. The plant can be treated with any systemic fungicide, for example “Topaz”, but it is better to use preventive spraying, starting in mid-late June. In addition, there are a bunch of viral diseases in which the leaves become covered with various small and or large spots of different colors. Usually the leaves become distorted, become smaller, the plant grows worse, and almost does not bloom. Unfortunately, no methods have been developed for the treatment of viral plant diseases, so it is usually recommended to remove a bush affected by viruses from the site as quickly as possible. Pests. If your leaves not only turn yellow, but also begin to wither, it’s possible that a cockchafer larva or some other root chewer has settled in your rose roots! Garden stores will be happy to sell you insecticides against such uninvited guests.

Almost all rose lovers who grow them observe yellowing of the leaves of the crop. Moreover, this phenomenon can be observed regardless of the quality of plant care. So why do rose leaves turn yellow? In addition to natural age-related changes in the body of a flower, there are also unnatural groups of causes of yellowing of leaves. What factors cause this phenomenon and how to deal with it?

Watching a rose's leaves turn yellow and fall off is very painful. It is much more pleasant to observe healthy individuals. What are the causes of yellowing leaves? Are straw organs always evidence of illness? In fact, there are many reasons for leaves turning yellow.

Sometimes a leaf turns yellow due to the physiological characteristics of an individual of a certain species and variety. In this case, you should not take any action, especially since it is unlikely that you will be able to change anything. The situation is completely different if the organs of a young bush change color. In this case, inaction can even provoke the death of the plant.

The causes of yellowing of the organs of young individuals can be grouped according to the nature of the manifestation:

• Rapid yellowing and falling off. This phenomenon is usually observed in the case of unfavorable external conditions. In particular, sudden temperature fluctuations. Similar phenomena can be observed in the summer in case of frequent weather changes. However, most modern varieties are adapted to unstable environmental conditions.
• The leaves of the roses at the bottom of the bush turn yellow, most likely due to a lack of light. Perhaps the individual grows in the shade and suffers from this.

Therefore, you need to be especially careful when choosing a site for planting roses. This should be a place protected from the wind, well lit by the sun. For example, the south or southeast side of the site is perfect.

In the shade, not only a change in the color of plant organs is observed, but also the elongation of shoots and a slowdown or cessation of flowering.

• Are the leaves turning yellow and curling, and the tips of the organs turning brown and drying out? Rose is trying to tell you that she doesn't have enough water. In addition, under conditions of moisture deficiency, plants become deformed and flowers fall off. The flowering process stops. In hot conditions, representatives of climbing varieties growing near the wall of the building especially feel the lack of water.

Young, recently planted individuals also need systematic moisture.

• Yellow spots appeared on the organs. Usually this phenomenon is caused by a lack of nutrients in the rose body.

Video “Causes of yellowing rose leaves”

In this video you will see why rose leaves turn yellow.

Battery deficiency

Why do the leaves turn yellow? Very often the cause of the phenomenon lies in an imbalance in the supply of fertilizers to plants. Some rose lovers do not pay any attention to the change in the color of the organs and continue to care for the individuals as usual.

• Nitrogen. Often the cause of leaf color change is nitrogen starvation of the crop. For example, a bush planted on poor soil or insufficiently fertilized throughout its life often suffers from a deficiency of the element. If enough nitrogen was added in the spring, the rose bloomed and gained strength, but in this case the plant used all the nitrogen. Without re-fertilizing at the end of summer, you may experience “October” yellowing and leaf drop.

It is not difficult to determine the lack of nitrogen, since the color change occurs gradually, starting with the organs located below. You may not immediately notice the change in color of several leaves. However, after some time the bush will turn almost half yellow, after which the plant turns pale.

Another “spring” sign of nitrogen deficiency is yellowing of shoots. Instead of being dark in color, the organs become pale red or slightly brown. The leaves growing on such stems have the same color.

It is easy to determine the lack of nitrogen in the crop body, as well as to completely eliminate it. You just need to dilute urea (a tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and pour half a bucket onto the bush. Watering by leaves is allowed. The first positive results will become noticeable after a couple of days, and after 10 days the individual will completely acquire its usual healthy appearance.

• Potassium. When it is deficient, the edge of the leaf first becomes straw-colored, after which the organ changes color to brown and dries out. In this case, ash and potash fertilizers will come to the rescue.
• Iron and manganese. If there is a deficiency of at least one of the elements, the leaves develop chlorosis, and the space between the veins changes color. The vein does not change color, remaining green.

With a deficiency of iron, first of all, the upper young organs turn yellow, and with a lack of manganese, the old leaves turn yellow.

Often, a lack of these elements is observed on soils with a reaction above 7-7.5, that is, on alkaline soils, which usually contain chalk and dolomite. Individuals may also lack iron and manganese in soils that were oversaturated with lime during the deacidification procedure.

What should I do to correct the situation? You can get rid of chlorosis by spraying flowers with a solution of fertilizing with iron and manganese. It is also necessary to normalize the soil reaction (indicator 5.6 - 7). You can acidify the soil with organic matter, for example, mullein. The procedure involves creating a small hole on one side of the plant where there is access to the root. It is necessary to pour 2.5 liters of mullein solution into such a recess. Thus, part of the root system will have access to the soil, which will bring the number of elements back to normal.

Waterlogging of the soil

Leaves may also turn yellow due to waterlogging of the rose root system. This often happens due to the plants being in damp soil for a long time. The phenomenon is usually observed in low clayey areas during rainy periods. Dew plays a significant role in this phenomenon. Signs of overhydration resemble nitrogen deficiency. The color change starts from the lower organs, but nitrogen supplements in no way improve the situation.

If the area is located in a lowland, then it is better to plant flowers on mounds or elevated areas.

Diseases and pests

Yellowing leaves may be a reaction to disease. If the disease is caused by a fungus, the bush can be easily saved. If the causative agent is a virus, then the infected individual must be eliminated from the site and destroyed.

Roses are most often attacked by black spot. Sometimes it is not even considered a disease, believing that the spots are a natural development of the plant. However, this is still a fungal disease that is dangerous for almost all varieties of roses.

A fallen leaf from a bush is evidence that the plant will not survive the winter well and will slow down its growth and flowering.

Yellow leaves with black spots are a manifestation of spotting. You can help the crop with complex fungicides, for example, Topaz, but it is more effective to use such sprays for prevention (mid-to-late June).

In addition, there are viral diseases, as a result of which the leaves become covered with small or large spots of various colors. Usually the leaves become smaller, change shape, and the plant itself slows down and stops blooming. There are no methods for treating viral plant diseases, so infected bushes are simply removed from the site and destroyed.

If the leaves not only turn yellow, but also begin to fade, then there is a high probability that the larvae of the May beetle or other rootworms have settled on the roots of the flowers. Pests can be controlled with a variety of insecticides.

So, rose growers often observe yellowing of the leaves of their plants. Some cannot determine the cause of the phenomenon, while others do not know what to do to change the situation. Leaves from roses can turn yellow and fall for various reasons. But they are easy to identify and subsequently eliminate. The main thing is to carefully monitor the flowers and not take yellowing for granted, the natural development of individuals.

Video “Roses diseases and their pests”

From the video you will learn about the most common diseases of roses and how to combat them.

Yellowing and falling leaves are a natural reaction of roses to lower temperatures and shorter daylight hours in the fall. But the appearance of yellow leaves on a bush in summer or spring is uncharacteristic for these flowers and requires the gardener’s attention. Not only spots and stripes, uniform changes in leaf color can also be a symptom of pathological processes.

There is no single treatment for yellowing of rose leaves, since various reasons cause this reaction. Most often the problem occurs as a result of:

• inappropriate care;
• malnutrition;
• exposure to pathogens;
• pest activity on rose bushes.

Environmental conditions

Often the appearance of yellow leaves is caused by unfavorable conditions:

On a note!

Watering rose bushes with tap water can also cause yellowing of the foliage due to the chlorine contained in the water. For irrigation, it is advisable to use rain, settled water.

• Drought. In addition to yellowing, with a lack of watering, the edges and tips of rose leaves curl. The yellow color gives way to brown, the leaf dries out. Also characteristic is the cessation of shoot growth and the falling of flowers.
• Sudden temperature changes. In this case, the leaves quickly change color and fall off, and the bush immediately loses a significant part of its foliage.

Nutritional deficiency

Yellow leaves may indicate a lack of certain nutrients in the rose's diet:

1. Nitrogen. In this case, the leaf turns pale, and then acquires an even yellow color. Symptoms first appear on the lower leaves, and gradually the entire bush takes on an “autumn” appearance. In the spring, when there is a nitrogen deficiency, deviations in the color of young shoots may be observed - the sprouts become brown-yellow or pale orange, whereas normally they should have a dark purple color. The leaves on such shoots turn yellow-green instead of red.
2. Potassium. Old leaves are affected, with the tips changing color first; later the yellowness “creeps” from the edges to the center, but does not affect the veins. The edges of the leaf blade become brownish-violet in color and dry out.
3. Calcium. Light yellow spots appear on the leaves, and the edges curl downwards. Young foliage grows small and the tops of the shoots dry out.
4. Iron. Characterized by shredding and yellowing, curling of young leaves. Large chlorotic spots appear on older leaves.
5. Manganese. Formation of stripes and yellow spots on the lower leaves. At the same time, the veins and small areas of tissue around them retain their green color. Yellowing begins at the edges of the leaf blade.

Rose diseases

Some fungi, bacteria and viruses can cause yellowing and falling leaves on rose bushes:

1. Black spot. The disease is caused by a fungus; symptoms usually appear in the second half of summer. First, brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves and stems of roses, then the leaves turn yellow, curl and fall off. The bush may lose most of its foliage. Shoots stop growing and flowering does not occur.
2. Jaundice. A bacterial disease in which yellowing of the leaves begins with the veins, gradually spreading throughout the rest of the leaf. Leaves may curl or lift up.
3. Rhea mosaic virus. Specks and spots of a yellow-green hue appear on the lower leaves, and after a short period of time, massive leaf fall occurs.
4. Tomato bronzing virus. Yellowing is preceded by the appearance of light spots and lightening of the veins in young leaves. After this, the leaves acquire a yellow color, become deformed, and necrosis develops on them. The flowers have a non-standard shape and spots may appear on the petals.

Important!

Rose diseases are often accompanied by a lack of potassium. Black spotting often appears on bushes suffering from lack of light and waterlogging; bacteria and viruses, as a rule, appear together with the pests that are their carriers. Therefore, treatment must be comprehensive, taking into account all factors.

Pest exposure

Yellowness of the leaves accompanies attacks by insects such as:

1. Spider mite. The appearance of the symptom is preceded by the formation of many white spots on the leaves, which over time turn into discolored spots. Mites are located on the back side of leaves; due to their small size, it is difficult to distinguish them with the naked eye. With a large lesion, the leaves appear dusty on the back side, a thin cobweb appears on the plant, and the shoots die.
2. Aphid. Often appears shortly before roses bloom. Small (up to 2 mm in length) insects appear on young leaves and shoots, which can be green, red, black, or white. There are also winged varieties of aphids. The leaves become thinner, curl and turn yellow, and patches of sticky plaque appear on the plant. The tops of the shoots curl, the buds become deformed and fall off without opening.
3. Rosen scale insect. Appears on roses less often than aphids or spider mites. The pest can be detected by red and yellow spots on the leaves, drops of sticky coating on the plant that turns black over time, and stunted shoot growth. Gradually, the leaves turn yellow and curl, and white growths form on their back side and shoots, which are scale insects covered with waxy shells.
4. Root-knot nematode. Externally, nematode damage manifests itself in weakening of bushes, poor flowering, and the appearance of small, deformed flowers. The leaves turn yellow, then turn brown and curl. If you dig up a diseased plant, you may find swellings and nodules on the roots. These formations are caused by the proliferation of root tissues, into the thickness of which the pest has penetrated.

Resuscitation of roses after exposure to adverse conditions

If the roses have turned yellow due to poor conditions, the first step is to eliminate the impact of a negative factor. Bushes damaged due to lack of moisture should be watered with warm water; if the soil becomes waterlogged, stop irrigation for a week or take care of a removable waterproof canopy to protect from precipitation. In case of significant fluctuations in daily temperatures, it is necessary to provide shelter for the bushes at night. If the reaction of roses is associated with a lack of light, only transplanting to another location will help.

“Resuscitation” measures will help eliminate the consequences of stress suffered by plants:

1. Water the bushes with Zircon (1 ampoule per bucket). You can add an ampoule of Cytovit to the solution or dissolve 1 g of Kornevin. You need to pour 1.5-2 liters of product under the bush; immediately before the procedure, you should water the plant with clean water.
2. After 3 days, it is recommended to treat the bush with Epin (8-10 drops per 1 liter).
3. 14 days after watering with Zircon, it is necessary to feed with potassium humate.

Advice from experienced gardeners!

If yellowing of the bushes is accompanied by severe inhibition of shoot growth, the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of succinic acid (tablet per liter of water) or the drug “NV-101” (drop per liter of water). It is recommended to alternate these products with a solution of vitamin B2 (200 ml ampoule of water), spraying once a week.

If the roots are damaged (in case of stagnation of water or prolonged drying out of the soil), you need to give the plants an unscheduled fertilizing with phosphorus - this will help the rose grow new roots faster. In other cases, it is enough to feed weakened plants with potassium to increase immunity. A foliar application method is recommended for rapid absorption of nutrition - in this case, dilute 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate per bucket of water. You can combine both elements in one feeding using potassium monophosphate (10 g per 10 liters).

Providing basic conditions for growing roses will help prevent yellowing of leaves:

1. Planting in well-lit areas. The bush should be in direct sunlight for at least 5-6 hours a day.
2. Ensuring the removal of moisture from the soil. When grown in low-lying areas, the bushes need to be “raised” above the ground line, that is, planted on an artificial embankment created from soil. In heavy soils, sand should be added to loosen before planting.
3. Optimal watering regime. Rose bushes need to be watered once a week, giving each one 10 liters of water. If regular maintenance is not possible, mulching the tree trunk circle with peat or freshly cut grass will help retain moisture. In hot summers, irrigation is carried out 2 times every 7 days. The water should be warm.

Replenishing nutritional deficiencies

If a nutrient deficiency is detected, you need to give the roses unscheduled feeding. If fertilizing with microelements (iron, calcium, manganese) is required, spray the bushes with nutrient solutions. Potassium and nitrogen must be added both through the leaves and into the soil.

1. Nitrogen. Root feeding with urea (15 g per bucket - volume for watering 2 bushes) or ammonium nitrate (17 g per 10 l). For foliar feeding, only urea can be used; in this case, 5 g of the substance is dissolved in 10 liters. Plants experience the greatest need for nitrogen in the spring.
2. Potassium. Foliar feeding with potassium sulfate (10 g per bucket of water) or potassium nitrate (7 g) is desirable; potassium magnesium should be added to the root.
3. Calcium. Give calcium nitrate (15 g per 10 liters).
4. Manganese. Spraying with manganese sulfate (5-10 g per bucket).
5. Iron. For feeding, solutions of Micro-Fe, Ferrilene, and Ferovit preparations are used according to the instructions.

Prevention consists of carrying out all the required fertilizing during the season and monitoring the condition of the plant. There are additional factors that influence the absorption of nutrients by plants:

1. Light and sandy soils are poor in nitrogen. In cold weather and with a deficiency of potassium, plants absorb the element from the soil less well.
2. Heavy and peaty soils are poor in potassium. The sensitivity of plants to the substance is reduced due to the high content of calcium and magnesium in the soil.
3. Calcium is most often found in low quantities in acidic and peaty soils.
4. A deficiency of iron and manganese is most often observed in bushes growing on alkaline soils.

Council of agronomists!

Sometimes the soil becomes alkalized as a result of excessive doses of lime or dolomite flour added to reduce its acidity. The popular method of acidifying the soil is to dig a small hole near the roots of the bush, into which you should pour about 2.5 liters of mullein solution.

Treatment and prevention of diseases

One of the worst options is if the yellowing of the leaves is caused by a disease. This symptom is characteristic of serious diseases, some of which (viral) do not have effective treatment regimens.

Black spot

Shoots and leaves of roses damaged by the fungus must be trimmed, and then the bushes must be sprayed. To treat black spot, fungicides “Skor”, “Ridomil Gold”, “Strobi”, “Falcon”, “Profit”, “Oxychom” are used.

Among the folk remedies, treatment with a solution of copper sulfate (1%) or Bordeaux mixture (1%), sulfur solution (0.3%), green infusion, and horsetail decoction is effective. They also use dusting of bushes with wood ash.

1. Avoid excess nitrogen supply. Provide plants with sufficient doses of phosphorus and potassium.
2. Take care to bring the soil acidity to normal - the disease more often affects roses growing in acidic soils.
3. Avoid dense planting of bushes, regularly clear the flowerbed or flower garden of weeds.
4. Carry out preventive spraying of bushes with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture twice a year - before the juices begin to flow in the spring and before wintering.
5. During the season, treat the bushes several times with the biofungicide “Fitosporin” (also ensures the prevention of bacterial infections).
6. Plant lavender or sage near rose bushes.

Rose jaundice

When symptoms of the disease appear, it is necessary to remove damaged shoots and leaves, as well as treatment with antibacterial drugs - Fitosporin, Fitoflavin, Sporobacterin. These are biological agents that are safe for rose bushes and neighboring plantings. Yellowing that spreads to the entire bush is a signal that the plant should be destroyed. Affected roses, as well as leaves removed during pruning, must be burned.

Prevention of jaundice:

1. Control of insects that carry bacteria. Jaundice is spread by leafhoppers and psyllids.
2. Disinfection of garden tools with alcohol or a solution of potassium permanganate (100 g of potassium permanganate per bucket of water).

Tomato bronzing mosaic virus

Treatment and prevention of these viruses are the same. In the initial stage of the disease, pruning of affected leaves and shoots is recommended. The cut areas should be disinfected with charcoal powder or a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the disease continues to progress, it is necessary to dig up and burn the diseased bush to stop the pathogen from spreading to other plants. There are no effective drugs for the treatment of viral diseases in plants.

Prevention of viruses in roses:

1. Fight against any sucking pests of roses - these insects are the main carriers of viruses. Rhea mosaic virus is most often transmitted by thrips.
2. Periodic use of special preparations to strengthen the plant’s immunity. For example, "Epin-extra".
3. Disinfection of garden tools.

Healthy!

To prevent the tomato bronzing virus, one should add maintaining the maximum possible distance between planting roses and other crops vulnerable to it - primarily tomatoes and tobacco.

Resistant varieties

There are a large number of varieties of roses that are distinguished by strong immunity against pathogenic microflora. Choosing them relieves the gardener of a large layer of worries associated with prevention and treatment. Some of them:

The most important thing in the fight against any pest is to identify the lesion at an early stage, which increases the chances of a successful treatment outcome. Therefore, it is advised to regularly inspect rose bushes and take immediate action if insects are found.

Spider mite

When treating rose bushes against mites, it should be taken into account that the bulk of pests are hidden on the back of the leaves.

Acaricides suitable for spraying roses include Neoron, Actellik, Antiklesch, Vertimek, Borneo. The soil in the flower garden is treated with iodine-containing agents, for example, “Farmayod” or “Povidone-iodine”.

Folk remedies:

• Soap solution. In 5 liters of hot water you need to dissolve 1/2 bar of laundry or tar soap. It is advisable not to spray, but to wipe the leaves and stems of roses with a soap solution, also removing mites mechanically.
• Garlic. The garlic cloves must be thoroughly crushed so that they release the juice, and poured at the rate of 200 g per liter (usually a small volume of the product is prepared, since the tincture is used as a concentrate). The garlic is infused for 5 days, then filtered and diluted with 60 ml (4 tablespoons) of the product in a bucket of water. To dilute the garlic infusion, water can be mixed with dill infusion (50/50), this increases the effectiveness of the product. To prepare the infusion, pour 500 g of dill leaves into 5 liters of boiling water and leave for 3 hours.

Planting garlic, if you can install this crop in a flower garden, will significantly reduce the risk of plants being damaged by almost any pests.

• Onion. To combat mites, use onion peels, 30 g of which should be poured into 5 liters of warm water. Leave for 5 hours, then filter.
• Marigold. Dried flowers of the plant need to be poured into a bucket and filled with warm water so that the raw materials are below the water level. Leave for 2 days, then filter and use for treating bushes and watering the soil.

The bushes are treated with folk remedies 3 times with breaks of 5-7 days.

Prevention of spider mites:

1. Sufficient irrigation. The mite does not like humidity, so it often attacks plants suffering from lack of watering. In this case, sprinkling irrigation is useful.
2. Planting pest-repellent crops in the flower garden. From ornamental plants - chrysanthemum, calendula. But you can supplement the composition in the flowerbed with basil or dill.
3. Proper nutrition. Sufficient phosphorus content in the soil prevents the appearance of mites. Conversely, excess nitrogen provokes the pest.

Aphid

A great effect can be achieved in killing aphids by dousing the plants with a stream of water. Insects that fall to the ground, as a rule, are not able to return to the bush and die.

For treatments, the most effective insecticides are “Kinmiks”, “Decis Profi”, “Biotlin”, “Aktara”. But chemicals destroy the aroma of flowers and make plant petals unsuitable for culinary and cosmetic purposes. The use of bioinsecticides - Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktofit - will be more gentle. In both cases, 3 treatments of bushes are carried out with intervals of 7 days.

Folk remedies are also effective if you apply them several times per season (once a week). Effective options:

1. Vinegar. In 10 liters of water you need to pour 150 ml of 9% or 450 ml of 3% vinegar. This solution should not be sprayed on young shoots and buds.
2. Infusion of tomatoes and garlic. 300 g of crushed heads of garlic (can be replaced with the same volume of onions) and 400 g of crushed tomato leaves need to be poured with 3 liters of water. After infusion for 7-8 hours and straining, pour 7 liters of water into the infusion and dissolve 1/5 of a bar of laundry soap in it.
3. Milk serum. It is used to treat delicate areas of the rose bush - young leaves and buds. The product is used without diluting with water.
4. Potato infusion. Fresh potato tops need to be chopped and poured with boiling water (1 kg of raw material per bucket of water). You need to infuse the product for 2 days, then strain and add 50 g of soap shavings.

Interesting!

The most environmentally friendly method of controlling aphids is to attract insects to the garden, the main food of which is the pest. These are ladybug, hoverfly, earwig, lacewing, ground beetle.

In addition to the usual sanitary measures, which prevent the appearance of many pests and pathogens, it is recommended to prevent aphids:

1. Destruction of anthills on the site. Insects patronize the pest because they feed on the honeydew secreted by aphids.
2. Planting plants in a flower bed with roses whose smell repels aphids. It is possible to choose decorative crops that can decorate a flower garden - lavender, nasturtium, calendula, fennel, Dalmatian chamomile, fragrant pelargonium.

Rosen scale insect

The shoots on which the pest has settled should be cut off and burned. After this, it is necessary to treat with systemic insecticides that penetrate plant tissue, since contact preparations will not harm the insect, protected by a waxy “shell.” Suitable remedies in this case would be “Aktara”, “Bankol” and drugs based on malathion (“Fufanon”, “Karbofos”).

4-5 days after the chemical treatment, the bushes should be sprayed with folk remedies. Treatments are carried out several times at intervals of 5-7 days.

Folk decoctions against scale insects:

1. From capsicum. You need to chop 0.5 kg of fresh pepper fruits, immerse them in 5 liters of boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes. After cooling and straining, the decoction is ready for use.
2. From tobacco. 2-3 kg of fresh tobacco leaves should be crushed and filled with a bucket of water. The infusion needs to be boiled for 30 minutes, then left for 2 days.
3. From celandine. 3-4 kg of chopped celandine greens should be poured into a bucket of hot water and left under the lid for 24 hours. After this, boil for half an hour and strain.

To prevent roseate scale insects:

1. You should not plant rose bushes next to other crops vulnerable to the pest - raspberries, blackberries, strawberries. When insects appear, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of all affected plants. Wild rose bushes, if they exist near the site, should be uprooted.
2. Avoid overfeeding rose bushes with nitrogen.
3. Once every six months, support plants with immune stimulants. For example, “HB-101”, “Amulet”.
4. Give roses adequate nutrition with potassium. In case of unfavorable conditions or depletion of plants, additional foliar feeding with potassium sulfate should be done.

Nematode

There are no effective methods to combat this pest. The focus needs to be on stopping the spread of nematodes. Affected bushes should be dug up and destroyed (burned), and the soil on which they grew should be poured with plenty of boiling water. After the onset of cold weather, the soil needs to be dug up with a shovel full so that the surviving pests freeze out.

Advice!

In the place where the affected roses grew, it is advisable to sow calendula or marigolds. Gladioli, phlox or peonies should not be planted in an infected area. Nematodes are safe for annual grasses.