DIY plywood boat drawing: patterns of motor boats for self-building, manufacturing, video review. Drawings of a homemade plywood boat

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a basic necessity, and in populated areas the production and rental of watercraft profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this even possible, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In preparing materials for this publication great help provided the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor transport) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued local authorities transport (water) inspection. There must be a sign on the side of the boat registration number in the prescribed form;
The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of vital important provisions ship theory, shipbuilding and navigation rules, see below;
The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but must forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top rack passenger car.

For the entire set of qualities, except for the price of materials, optimal choice for my first vessel I will have a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

All-metal welded and riveted boats.
Planing ships.
Small pleasure catamarans.
Foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for soft plastic boat will cost much more than best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For the quiet little ones inland waters the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

A little more difficult conditions sailing, in waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes it easier for the dinghy to ride the wave, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and the dinghy’s own weight is almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. The sailing dory is not so capricious, a beginner can learn to control it, knowledgeable movement of the ship under sail. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. As a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances, you can construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting the wings off an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail, and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel can sail. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the ship's performance: using the trapezoidal method, determine the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part along the frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. To wooden boat served as long as possible, wood materials First you need to soak it generously with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately trim plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear details will be cut out.
The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: V Lately Quite a lot of amateurs assemble boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners and so on. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil fiberglass in clean dishes for at least half an hour, then allow the container with its contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water and only then remove the fiberglass.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts made of extruded polystyrene foam EPS – effective method increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

Cut out parts without allowance;
The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., as required by the project;
They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much is enough expensive material will go into retirement. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Perhaps more: installation clamps of some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: they are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside. foam blocks; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W – displacement in t, 1 – density fresh water, ρ – mass density of foam plastic. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lights the size of a child's fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. Special attention from this set deserves an anchor.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from the optimal option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a Kurbatov welded anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). ingot 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Her distinctive feature extremely cheap: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, therefore, to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades become of great importance.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed a design for a dory sailing boat made of plywood, see figure; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. Dan construction drawing boat, showing the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in quite strong winds, provision is made for taking one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

All photos from the article

The modern market provides quite big choice various tourist and fishing boats. But for our man, a homemade plywood boat is much closer. And the point here is not even about saving money; a boat made by yourself is a source of pride, plus the whole process self-production, this is not so much a job as an interesting hobby. In this article we will look at the main stages of assembling such products.

A few words about preparation

Homemade boats made of plywood and fiberglass are considered, although small, but full-fledged watercraft. Therefore, the preparation and assembly process must be approached responsibly, because by and large, errors here can not only lead to damage to the vessel, but in some cases also endanger the life and health of the owner.

What materials are needed

As the name suggests, the main material here is, of course, plywood.. For the hull of a small boat, sheets of at least the first or second grade, with a thickness of about 5–7 mm, are well suited. For the keel, frames and other auxiliary structural parts, you need to take a thicker sheet, from 12 mm and above;

The grade of material is not the least important.. The choice of plywood is now quite large, but in this case the material will be in long-term direct contact with fresh or even sea water, naturally, plywood must be taken with increased moisture resistance. Ideally, it is better to take the FB brand; it was originally made for ship needs. If the price for “FB” does not suit you, then you can stop at “FSF”;

Advice: the now widespread brand “FC” may be listed in some sources as waterproof.
But in our case it is not suitable; here we need a material with increased moisture resistance, plus one that can withstand prolonged exposure to an aggressive environment.

Clean wood will be used for struts, seats and other elements. As a rule, planed boards with a thickness of 25 mm are taken here. In this case, preference should be given to soft, porous varieties. In professional shipbuilding, larch is used, but for a small boat spruce or pine is sufficient;
For intermediate stitching of sheets, copper wire with a thickness of about 2 mm is well suited.;
Fiberglass and polymer glue are used to create sealed seams. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose the type of adhesive composition; there is quite a large selection on the market, the main thing is that the composition is waterproof.

Tool selection

Homemade plywood boats for fishing do not require an excessively large set of tools.

Here you can get by with a traditional kit, which is available in the workshop of almost any owner:

In addition to pliers, screwdrivers and scissors, you will naturally need a hacksaw;
Cut regular plywood hand saw It’s quite heavy, so it’s better to purchase it with a set of canvases. Moreover, you should select a model with as many revolutions as possible, since at low speeds the veneer along the edge will break off;

For such work you definitely need a grinding machine. With ordinary sandpaper, by hand, you will not be able to achieve good quality processing;
To secure the sheets when gluing, clamps are used; there should be at least 3–4 of them;
A set of brushes is needed for applying glue and paints.

Boat construction

In this case, it is not so important which type of boat you choose. Punts, kayaks, sailing ships or boats with a motor, the instructions for building all these models are approximately the same.

Let's start with drawings

Now drawings homemade boat It's not a problem to find one made from plywood. There is enough information on the Internet or in specialized literature. You only need to decide on the size of the vessel, because the thickness of the sheets depends on this. If you don’t yet have the proper experience in such work, it’s better to stick to simple, non-separable models.

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend designing a boat yourself. But if you still decide to undertake such a feat of labor, you need to start with a careful calculation of the displacement and carrying capacity of the vessel. So that after you launch and try to swim, your product does not immediately go to the bottom along with the owner.

Important: drawings of homemade plywood boats with a motor are not much different from purely oared analogues.
As a rule, these vessels have a slightly modified transom (rear side).
Therefore, regardless of whether you have this moment motor, it is better to immediately give preference to just such boats.

So, when you have found a model that is suitable for you, before moving on to the actual production of parts and assemblies, you need to make paper patterns according to the drawings. And only after checking all the dimensions, transfer the pattern to plywood or wood.

Housing assembly

The maximum length of a standard sheet is about 3 m. Therefore, in most cases, you will need to splice two or more small sheets into single canvas. It's not complicated, but quite painstaking process requiring precision and accuracy. Such a connection among professionals is called miter gluing.

To do this, take 2 sheets and cut them along the edge at an angle; the width of such a bevel should be at least 7 times the thickness of the sheet. How larger area contact, the stronger the connection. The main mass is removed with a file, then with a machine until it is in perfect condition. Next, the bevels are smeared with glue, connected and pressed with something heavy until completely dry.

Advice: assembling and gluing such structures on the floor is extremely inconvenient, so it is advisable to immediately build trestles from a 50x50 mm wooden block.
Keep in mind that you will have to handle both sides of the boat, so the sawhorses must be adjusted to accommodate this.

Now we can move on to cutting out the components of our homemade boat for the motor from plywood and boards. The cut must perfectly correspond to the markings, because at the slightest deviation, the sides will not fit together tightly, and the cracks will need to be sealed.

It is more convenient to cut symmetrical parts, for example, sides or frames, in a single mass. To do this, the sheets are folded, fixed with clamps and cut according to the markings.

First, a transom is made; for models adapted for a motor, the transom must be reinforced. As a rule, it is made of several layers of plywood or durable wood. Plus, the transom is additionally covered with at least 3 layers of fiberglass.

Assembly starts from the transom. It is installed on trestles and from the back wall the sheets are sewn together. As assembly progresses, the edges of the sheets are ground down at the desired angle for tighter contact.

The sheets are tied together with copper wire in increments of 50 - 150 mm. Holes for the wire are drilled along the diameter of the wire at a distance of at least 15 - 20 mm from the edge. After gluing the outside, the wire is pulled out.

Taping seams

When the body is sewn, all joints must be securely taped. For this purpose, fiberglass or fiberglass will be used, which are generously lubricated with adhesive.

As we have already said, there are now quite a few specialized resins in stores, but most craftsmen prefer to use a mixture epoxy resin with silicon dioxide, better known as aerosil. The proportion is taken 1:1. The instructions are simple, generously lubricate the joint, then apply fiberglass tape. And so on for at least 3 layers.

Advice: experienced craftsmen prefer to cover all surfaces of a plywood boat with fiberglass, both outside and inside.
This will certainly require additional funds, but according to experts, such a boat will sail for at least 30 years.

All internal corners It is advisable to further strengthen it with wooden fillets, these are planks that resemble a baseboard in a house. Wooden fillets, frames, benches and all other parts are also glued with epoxy mixture and fiberglass; self-tapping screws and especially nails are not used here.

When the fiberglass shell hardens, all irregularities are puttied, covered again with an epoxy mixture, and you can begin finishing sanding. When the sanding is completed, the decking, oarlocks, seats are installed and the bolt is screwed in.

After which, the finished boat is painted or varnished at least 3 times. Moreover, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried.

Conclusion

As you can see, everything is not so complicated; homemade boats made of plywood and fiberglass are quite reliable and durable designs. Proof of this can be considered thousands of homemade products plowing the rivers and lakes of our great homeland.

The video in this article shows one of the options for building such a vessel. If you have any questions, write in the comments, our specialists will answer them.

DIY plywood boat, drawings and stages of its construction.

Let's look at the cross-sectional drawing of the presented model:

Breshtuk – wooden beam 114x60 (mm)
frame – plywood 16 (mm) thick
sternpost – plywood 16 (mm) thick
keelson – wooden beam 30x80 (mm)
bottom – plywood 6 (mm) thick
side – plywood 6 (mm) thick
handle – chrome tube with a diameter of 16…20 (mm)
floor – planed board 20x100 (mm)
deck – plywood 6 (mm) thick

A little about the material used:

Structural plywood
two types of sizes: 6x1500x3000 (mm); 16x1525x1525 (mm)
longitudinal fiber arrangement
quality grade "E"
polished on one side “Ш1” (6х1500х3000)
unpolished “NSh” (16x1525x1525)
classification for moisture exposure “FB” or “BS”

Overall dimensions of a plywood boat

Let's start work with making: a breshtuk; five frames; sternpost; keelson

We will install it on the staple and secure the gap; five frames; sternpost

We insert the keelson into the grooves, having previously lubricated the contact planes with glue, and let the structure dry.

Let's take cardboard and bend it along the plane of the sides and draw the outline of the side.

Let's take cardboard and bend it along the plane of the bottom and draw the outline of the bottom.

After making sure that the contour measurements are accurate, we transfer them to plywood and carefully cut them out. We should get four parts - two left and two right, and the right parts are mirror reflection left.

We start fastening from the bottom.

We use brass or galvanized screws and epoxy glue to secure the parts cut from plywood to the structure frame. After the glue has hardened, align the contour grinder.

We fasten the sides in the same way.

We fasten the joints of the plywood parts as follows:
1. Drill along the joints, at the same distance, through holes diameter 3 (mm).
2. Insert a nylon cord into the holes.
3. We tighten the parts together.

After the glue has hardened, smooth the contour and joint surfaces with a grinding machine.

From above, by analogy, we will secure the deck. Let's level the joint surfaces.

We will cover all joints with two layers of fiberglass and let it dry.

It won't hurt if you treat the entire body with fiberglass.

We will finish the body and paint it an interesting color.
For structural rigidity, we will strengthen the bottom of the seat with wooden blocks on both sides.
We will lay boards on the floor. We will install metal handles on top of the deck.
DIY plywood boat made by:

The development and appearance of such unusual project due to the widespread interest of sailing enthusiasts in maritime antiquities. A small and shallow-draft (draft 1.5 m), but quite seaworthy cruising yacht, designed for long-distance voyages with a crew of 8-9 people, has been given some features characteristic of sailing ships of the XVIII - early XIX centuries - the heyday sailing fleet. At the same time, the project provides for the use modern materials and hull design, as well as technological techniques used today...

The vessel's mast was designed taking into account the main features of shipbuilding from the times of the sailing fleet: the “classical” proportions and principles of armament were preserved. In the old days, masts of small ships were most often made in one piece or assembled from well-fitted parts - pieces held together from the outside with vulings (tied with a strong cable) every 800-1000 mm...

For some time now, operations with the 48-kilogram “Whirlwind” have become difficult for me - carrying it from the storage place to the boat, attaching it to the transom, removing it from the boat, etc. A dream appeared about a leisurely displacement boat with an economical inboard engine, with a cabin , which would protect from rain and wind. This is how the boat shown in the photo and sketch appeared, equipped with a four-stroke air-cooled UD-25 carburetor engine...

Captain Vrungel believed that whatever you name the ship, it will sail. Let's not argue with the old, tried and true sea wolf, but we’ll still put forward our opinion - the more carefully and carefully you prepare the drawings of a plywood boat with your own hands, so it will serve you long years and in any weather. It is the drawings of the vessel that will determine all your future decisions.

They are the ones who will introduce you to this world of shipbuilding, where Anglo-Dutch terminology rules. And understanding the terminology of boat design elements, and therefore successfully reading the proposed drawing, is fundamentally important.

According to the old axiom, start from the stove

Drawings of a homemade plywood boat must include strict instructions on how to attach all elements - this is a key issue for the entire design

Indeed, terminology, when throwing yourself into such a bottomless field as boat building, is of great and crucial importance. We bring to your attention its fundamentals regarding the design of boats, which appear everywhere in the drawings.

Terminology

Therefore, understand these terms very carefully; they literally permeate any worthwhile drawing of a boat made of any material.

In the side view we note the following structural elements boats, and it is impossible to say which of them is most important and which is less important, all elements are required to be used:

A – frame. You can choose the option of an ordinary punt, without frames, but when it comes to such an aspiration thrown on the Internet as “do-it-yourself plywood boat drawings”, the reliability and strength of the structure comes to the fore, which means frames are required;
Spacing is the distance between two frames. The most important characteristic design of any boat;
B - sternpost;
C - stem;
D – timber
E – keelson. A very desirable design element, which, however, is often discarded for boats;
F – fender. You cannot do without this element if you are going to add a superstructure to the boat. For open models, the fender is not used.
I – breshtuk. We strongly advise you not to neglect this element; the strength of the entire structure greatly depends on it.
J – book. The bracket is also extremely important in ensuring the strength of the boat.
K – stringer. It is also an indispensable element if you approach construction with the utmost care.

The top view introduces a few more important terms:

A – beam;
B – half beam. Goes into a full beam if you do not build a superstructure on the boat;
C – karengs;
D – midsection.

The view from the forecastle introduces terms that will be fundamentally important at a more advanced stage of construction, when it becomes necessary to strengthen the hull of the boat and install a sail and keel, also improving sailing performance:

A – tongue and groove belts;
B – keel. By ensuring the keel weight is 50 percent of the weight of the entire boat, you significantly increase its stability. After all, you never know how the rolling will affect you or future passengers, and a solid supply of sucking sweets and even ginger can do little to prolong the pleasure of being on the water, except to quickly get to the shore;
C – steps. Mandatory if you are putting up a mast;
D – tongue and groove;
E – partners. This is the name of the hole in the superstructure for the passage of the mast. Of course, if you don’t have an add-on, then you can forget about partners for now;
F – velhout. A very important sheet pile belt at the level of the waterline, water;
H – shearstrek. The topmost tongue and groove belt.
G – water level;
I – waterweiss. This element is already an element of the add-in.

Plywood

The most common material for making boats today is, of course, carbon fiber. But this material is the domain of industry. When it comes to independent creativity, such “folk” material as plywood comes to the fore..

Plywood or in other words, wood-laminated board - construction material, created by gluing specially produced veneer. Usually the number of veneer layers is odd and, in any case, more than 3. To increase the strength of plywood, each subsequent layer of veneer with its wood fibers is perpendicular to the fibers of the previous layer. Frames are the basis of any floating craft. Blueprints plywood boats, claiming to be something more than the title of punt, must have a separate option - the arrangement of the frames

Characteristics of plywood

When choosing plywood for boat construction, it is very important to choose the right type.

According to the arrangement of wood fibers on outer layers plywood is distinguished:

Longitudinal, when the fibers are directed along the long side, and,
Transverse - along the short one.

To build a boat, it is better to choose a longitudinal one.
Of course, such an isometric drawing is also possible, but this is the simplest option for the “free plywood boat drawings” section - there are no frames, and the work is in many ways similar to assembly children's construction set, except that the details are tens of times larger

By purpose, plywood is divided into:

construction,
industrial,
packaging,
furniture, and
structural – this is exactly what we choose for our purposes.

There is a classification of plywood in relation to the effects of moisture, which is fundamentally important for a boat:

FBA is like this, but you shouldn’t choose it, it doesn’t meet the strict requirements for moisture resistance;
FC – this is the designation for plywood that is sufficiently resistant to moisture;
FSF - and so, with increased moisture resistance;
FB – impregnated with bakelite varnish, such plywood is considered the most resistant and can be used even in aggressive environments, which is important in our case, and under water;
BS - this one is simply impregnated with bakelite glue. Consider that if you have such plywood at your disposal, then the success of the whole business is 50% guaranteed. This plywood is quite for a long time specifically used in aircraft and shipbuilding. It happily combines all the qualities necessary for a boat master - excellent flexibility, highest strength, complete waterproofness, and also resistance to rotting and deterioration;
BV - but don’t be fooled by this one, it is in many ways similar to BS, but does not have moisture resistance.

Helpful advice!
When choosing plywood for boat construction, we recommend paying attention to laminated plywood.
At the very least, it will be just great if you use one as tongue and groove belts or on the outside of the case if it is single-layer.
This will greatly improve the driving performance of your creation, because water is a medium in which frictional force plays a significant role.
On the other hand, you should not use laminated plywood inside the boat.
Its slippery surface itself, and even wetted with water, can cause a lot of trouble.

Principal characteristics

When it comes to using plywood to build a boat, it is important to choose plywood based on its quality, determined by the number of knots per square meter of the outer layer.

There are 5 quality levels here:

E – so-called elite quality, when there are no knots at all. It is probably unnecessary to say that it is always necessary to strive to choose just such plywood;
Well, then, a simple classification of quality - I, II, III and IV. In the latter case, the number of knots is not controlled.
I – maximum length knots and warping does not exceed 20 mm;
II - cracks no more than 200 mm, wood inserts are permissible, and glue leakage is permissible only on an area of 2% of total area leaf;
III – no more than 10 pieces of knots with a diameter of no more than 6 mm. There is even a restriction on total shortcomings – no more than 9;
IV – this is the worst quality with even fallen knots and edge defects of up to 5 mm.

Operating conditions requirements

Most likely, for building a boat you will choose as the most common one. There is also birch plywood, but its use is limited by too high a price.

Another thing is very important here - the quality of processing of the outer surface of the plywood sheet.

Based on this indicator, plywood is distinguished:

NS – unpolished;
Ш1 – polished on one side;
Ш2 - polished on both sides.

Here it is fundamental and mandatory to use the sanded side of the plywood on the outside of the body. It is advisable, for safety reasons, not to use the polished side on the inside.

Dimensions

A natural characteristic of any sheet of plywood is its size.

The industry, according to standards, produces sheets of the following four sizes:

1525 x 1525 mm;
1220 x 2440 mm;
1500 x 3000 mm;
1525 x 3050 mm.

Your choice will largely depend on the size of the boat.

Helpful advice!
All the given characteristics of plywood must be indicated in the specification of the boat drawings.
Do not under any circumstances agree to purchase boat plans offered unless they are accompanied by detailed explanatory note, describing all the nuances of manufacturing, and most importantly, choosing the type of plywood.
The drawings must indicate the degree of processing external parties housings.
In this regard grinding machine will be one of the most in demand in your work.

conclusions

Building a boat is a fascinating creative process for people who still like to live, who are not afraid to experiment and have a design streak. (see also) But, on the other hand, you shouldn’t reinvent the wheel, be sure to get acquainted with all the photo materials, study the terminology and various Constructive decisions.

Prepare yourself for possible reworking of unsuccessful decisions. Learn to “talk to yourself” and communicate with experienced craftsmen. Only in this case is the success of the entire enterprise called “building a plywood boat with your own hands” possible.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.