Wooden hoops for tubs. Do-it-yourself barrel - step-by-step production

For the construction of a bathhouse you can choose traditional version– cut down a small one or build a steam room according to frame technology. A sauna - a barrel made with your own hands from specially prepared boards - looks much more attractive and original. Since the method of assembling a house-side structure is of interest to many homeowners, we suggest considering the manufacturing procedure in this article.

Selection of design and dimensions

The building is similar to a barrel not only externally, but also structurally. The structure consists of the following elements:

end walls round shape, knocked together from tightly fitted boards, are analogues of the bottom and lid of a barrel;
side walls assembled from longitudinally laid thick boards with special recesses (following the example of a log house);
external ties made of steel strip or cable, resembling barrel iron hoops;
stands for horizontal installation assembled body on the ground;
elements of interior design - stove, shelves, partitions with doors (if necessary).

Steam room, washing room and dressing room in the form of a classic round barrel

Reference. There are more complex designs, made in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners or an oval, shown in the photo below.

The first step is to decide on the design and layout of the bathhouse premises - the future dimensions and foundation of the structure depend on this. Please note important point: the side walls are made of solid boards made specifically for the bathhouse, so the length of the structure directly depends on the length of the lumber.

The design and internal layout of the barrel is developed depending on the selected type of bathhouse and other wishes of the homeowner as follows:

A beginner who decides to build a barrel-shaped sauna on his own is not recommended to start with large structures equipped with several internal partitions. Make a one-room sauna 2 m long - if desired, it can be loaded on a trailer passenger car and take it to a resting place near a pond.

Harvesting lumber

The beams and boards for a bathhouse made in the form of a barrel must be sawn from hardwood - aspen, linden, and so on. Of the coniferous species, the use of cedar and larch, which are resistant to temperature changes and moisture, is allowed. Pine and spruce, when heated strongly, release resin, whose drops can burn people in the steam room.

Advice. If the choice of wood is limited only coniferous species, for the cladding of the upper part of the body, select boards without knots, which are sources of resinous discharge.

To make a barrel-type sauna, purchase the following timber:

timber with a minimum cross-section of 10 x 10 cm for stands;
a board 45-50 mm thick and 10 cm wide is used for assembling end and side walls;
wooden door 0.7 x 1.8 m with a frame (you can buy ready-made or make it yourself from timber 50 x 50 mm and boards 2.5 cm thick);
lumber for the manufacture of shelves and lattice trays.

The number of boards on the end walls of the barrel is calculated as follows: the area of the circle is determined, the resulting value is divided by the width of the product and multiplied by a safety factor of 1.2. Do not forget to add bars - power jumpers that connect the boards to each other during the panel assembly process.

Side paneling timber is calculated by the circumference divided by the width of the board. Apply a safety factor because the wood must be mortise-and-tongue-faced on a woodworking machine.

Note. On sale it is not difficult to find ready-made kits for assembling bathhouses - barrels various dimensions and layouts. But often the quality of these products does not correspond to their cost.

What else will be needed in the process of building a round bath:

metal ties - steel cables or strips;
fasteners – galvanized screws and nails;
compositions for external and internal processing of wood – antiseptics, varnishes;
materials for the manufacture of the roof - shingles, plywood, beams and roof covering(common options are bitumen shingles or corrugated sheet);
sauna stove of appropriate power, calculated according to the volume of the steam room;
chimney pipes - sandwich;
special lamps and switches for baths, non-flammable cables.

If you plan to use the barrel year-round, it is worth making external insulation. Suitable thermal insulation material– mineral wool, polymers are not recommended.

Wood processing

Since the walls of the bathhouse are joined in a special way - like log cabins, all the boards need to be mechanically processed with cutters on a machine; cutting out semicircular grooves by hand is unrealistic. The developer needs to contact a woodworking workshop and provide sketches with the parameters of the workpieces. The exact dimensions of the ridges, grooves and profile of the cutter are indicated in the drawing.

To facilitate further construction works Process the trimmed workpieces in advance according to the instructions:

Advice. Cover the surfaces of the workpieces going outside and inside the barrel with different protective compounds. Apply from inside special remedy for baths and steam rooms.

After painting, stack the boards to dry, laying thin strips between the tiers. How to lead correctly preparatory work, look at the video:

Manufacturing of end walls

As mentioned above, a barrel-sauna is made with your own hands from two (minimum) round edge elements connected by profiled cladding boards. Therefore, construction begins with the assembly of the ends of the barrel using panel technology.

Place 2 support beams on a flat area and begin assembling the rear blank wall in the following sequence:

Advice. It is not necessary to tie the blanks into a shield with two long jumpers. Place 4 crossbars shorter and closer to the edge - the product will look more aesthetically pleasing.

When assembling, the groove of each subsequent beam is put on the ridge of the previous one, as builders do log houses. This method connection prevents precipitation from entering the joint. Fit the boards tightly; if necessary, use clamps and wedging.

The front wall is made in a similar way, only the base serves door frame. Twist it with self-tapping screws from the beams, having previously secured it to the stands with clamps and aligned the diagonals with a tape measure. To trace the circle, nail a temporary board to the box with the center on it.

After sawing off the excess, sand the ends of both pieces and install the door. It would not hurt to additionally secure the outer boards of the wall with long furniture screws screwed into the adjacent board bars. How to make the round walls of a barrel-sauna, watch the video:

Instructions for assembling the bath

The structure needs to be assembled locally - it is quite cumbersome to move. But first you need to make stands - legs located under the outer walls and partitions. For making, use as much as possible the scraps of materials left over after assembling the front and back walls. One of the design options is shown in the photo.

Installation of the sauna barrel is carried out in the following order:

Important point. A version of a traditional Russian bathhouse with a sink is installed at a slight slope towards the rear wall. A hole is drilled at the lowest point of the floor to drain water.

The finished barrel body should be protected from precipitation so that top part the smaller baths got wet. It is recommended to use the budget method here:

Stuff flexible nails across the body wooden planks at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m.
Pin sheets of thin plywood to the top of the planks.
Cover the improvised base of the roof with bitumen shingles.

If insulation is needed, the shingles are nailed to the body in several layers - the gap between the plywood and the outer surface of the barrel will increase. You can put it there mineral wool, covered diffusion membrane. The procedure for assembling the bathhouse is shown in detail in the next video:

Construction work

Once installation is complete, proceed to interior design barrels. The following work remains to be done in the bathhouse:

Do it in the back vent, closed with a lid.
Place the oven using a metal stand. Protect the section of the wall behind the stove with fireproof materials - roofing steel or mineralite slabs.
Make a chimney from a sandwich pipe by making a hole in the ceiling. Read how to install chimney pipes correctly.
Make shelves and a floor drain (lattice tray), attach the elements to the walls.
Lay out the electrical wiring, install a bath lamp and a switch.

Under the barrel - Russian bathhouse, it is advisable to dig a pit in advance to drain water through a hole in the floor. There is another way of drainage - connect a flexible pipe to the drain, laid to a storm drain gutter or other place.

Conclusion

If you decide to self-production baths are barrels, please be patient and have plenty of free time. The author of the videos presented here spent about 1 month building it from scratch. Add time costs to resolve unforeseen delays and problems associated with lack of experience. There is a way to reduce construction time - order ready set craftsmen, and only do the installation yourself.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

If you are making your own wine and pickles, then you know that containers are better than wooden barrel No. After all, made from wood, it becomes one of the main points in the recipe; it is an environmentally friendly raw material that preserves the taste and beneficial features products. In addition, the alcohol contained in wines or moonshine when interacting with containers made from synthetic materials: plastic, nylon can dissolve them and the reaction products are mixed with the drink.

Buying a barrel for your winemaking or brining is not difficult, but if you want to save money or like to do everything yourself, then it is worth learning the technique of making an oak barrel with your own hands. This is a process that takes a lot of time and effort, but with our tips you will see that making a barrel with your own hands is not so difficult even for those who have never done it.

Making barrels from wood is called “cooperage”, and the master who deals with this business is a cooper. This is a whole art that originated in Ancient Greece and still popular today. The technology has not changed for thousands of years, has been tested by time and is not as difficult to implement as it seems at first glance. But how to make a barrel yourself in modern conditions?

Choosing wood

First of all, of course, choose the material from which you are going to make your future barrel. We will offer you the main types of wood that coopers prefer, tell you what their positive and negative sides are, and also help you choose the most suitable option just for you.

Oak

Of course, first of all, we should talk about making oak barrels. This wood rightfully deserves the title classic material, used by coopers. Possessing high strength, flexibility, this tree contains “tannins” that act as an antiseptic. The moisture acting on the walls of such a barrel makes them stronger. Therefore, the service life of oak barrels is measured not even in tens, but in hundreds of years. With drinks stored in such a barrel, oxidation processes and interaction with wood occur and they acquire pleasant aroma with a hint of vanilla.

Fur tree, pine tree

These types of wood are also used as material for making barrels. They are soft, easier to process and cut, but are inferior in strength to oak and many other species. Their disadvantage is the smell of resin, which is why this type of wood is rarely used as a material for barrels.

Cedar

Of the representatives coniferous varieties coopers prefer it, especially in places where its natural habitat is located. Its properties are similar to pine or spruce, but such barrels have no smell. They are well suited for storing food, especially dairy products.

Linden

This type of wood is fibrous and can be easily cut and processed. Strong material, does not dry out, does not smell. Linden barrels are recognized as the best for storing and transporting honey, caviar, and pickles.

Aspen

This is a cheap but long-lasting material, it is strong, resistant to moisture, and has antiseptic properties. Aspen has been recognized as ideal for pickling and storing vegetables. The peculiarity of this variety is that it swells greatly, but for the cooper this is rather a plus, because thanks to this the rivets close tightly.

We make rivets

So, you have decided on the type of wood, let’s say it will be oak. Now we make the barrel parts, starting with the rivets. These are tapering at the edges, or rectangular boards(sawn or chipped). The latter are superior in strength due to the structure of the fibers, which does not undergo destruction when split.

The shape of the stave depending on the type of barrel

To determine the exact number of such rivets, do the following:

Determine the required parameters of the barrel
Make drawings of your design
Create sketches of rivets and bottoms of natural sizes

After these procedures, perform simple calculations so that you do not miscalculate how many rivets you need. It is calculated using the formula: 2*Pi*R/N, where:

Pi – constant value 3.14
Р – radius of the bottom (if the sides are equal) or the middle (if the sides are convex)
W – riveting width size

Barrel sizes depending on volume

Making split staves will take a lot of time and effort; it requires certain skills. The main thing to do is to split the workpiece so that you get fragments with a smooth surface.

Scheme of splitting the flame into rivets

Two main methods of splitting:

Radial (the split passes through the core of the deck, which requires less effort)
Tangentially (does not affect the core, we do not recommend using it when processing hardwood, this makes the process slower and more difficult)

It is easiest to process raw material; freshly cut material is best. If you use ready-made boards, make sure that the annual rings follow the direction of their plane, without sawing.

After harvesting, you need to dry it, in the summer, in the air, under a canopy, this period will be from 3 months. For artificial drying, use the following method:

Glue paper to the ends of the rivets
Place in the oven
Leave it there for a day

Barrel rivets ready for use

The blanks are now ready for further work.

Making a hoop

Another detail is the hoop. It helps to connect all the rivets, creating a single whole; stainless steel is used to make the hoop.

Modern barrels have three hoops:

Farts (closer to the center)
Morning (closer to the edge)
Neck (if the barrel has a large volume, additionally placed between the first two)

The size of the hoop depends on the volume of the container (thickness*width):

Up to 25 l – 1.6mm*3cm
25 – 50 l – 1.6mm*3.6cm
Up to 100 l – 1.6mm*4-4.5cm
120 l or more – 1.8*5cm

Stainless steel hoops for barrels

You will need temporary metal hoops, which are made according to the following algorithm:

Cut out required size sheet steel strips
Make holes at the ends of the strips and fasten them with rivets.

Collecting a barrel

Now we are approaching the main stage - assembling the barrel, consisting of rivets, which are connected first by temporary and then by permanent hoops.

Process with a tool - grinding, cut off uneven ends, drill a filler hole.

Watch a video of how an oak barrel is made.

Oak barrel repair

You have an old barrel that you do not use because it is dry, leaking or for some other reason it is not suitable, watch the video on how the repair is done.

The second part of the video if the barrel is leaking

Today there are not many masters of cooperage left, but the tradition of making pickling in tubs, or storing honey and wine in barrels has remained in Russia to this day. It often happens that for one reason or another it is not possible to acquire wooden containers. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Even if this is not the easiest task, however, if you set yourself a clear goal and follow all the features of the technology, you can make quite decent wooden containers for storing food and drinks. We will talk about how to make an oak barrel with your own hands below.

Making blanks

To make a container, you first need to select the material. If you want to store beekeeping products inside, pay attention to linden or aspen raw materials, plane tree. Honey is stored quite well in barrels made of poplar, alder wood, and willow. Oak barrel ideal for pickling, fermenting or soaking.

If you have figured out the raw materials, you should choose an old tree. Its lower part is best suited for rivets. During preparation, be sure to make sure that the block is a couple of centimeters more sizes future barrel. This reserve is needed for sanding the edges.

The wood must be damp. Initially, the block splits into 2 parts. To do this, use an ax and a small log, which is gently tapped on the butt. Each half splits in two again. It is necessary to ensure that the separation occurs radially. Do the same with each subsequent half - the number of blanks depends on the diameter of the oak barrel. It’s easy to prepare raw materials with your own hands, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that blanks may have different widths, but it's not scary.

The rivets are dried indoors, where there is good natural ventilation. The period is at least 1 month, and ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed with special tools. It could be:

plow;
sherhebel;
plane.

Processed first outside rivets, be sure to check the degree of curvature using a pre-prepared template. It can be cut from a thin piece of wood by applying it to finished product. After all the outer surfaces have been processed, you can proceed to the side ones. They are also leveled according to a template, and after processing they are jointed. The inner surface of the riveting is processed with a plane.

Rings

Both steel and wood can be used to make hoops. The latter option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to metal. For hoops, hot-rolled steel in the form of a tape is used. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and thickness: 0.16-0.2 cm.

You need to take measurements at the place where the hoop will be stretched. After that to a certain value add the width of the strip, doubled. Using a hammer, the workpiece is bent to take the shape of a ring, and then holes are punched or drilled in it and rivets are placed. The material for them is mild steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the inner edges of the hoop must be flared with the pointed end of a hammer.

Subtleties of assembly

Making oak barrels with your own hands requires patience. However, the result is worth the time and effort. So, to assemble a barrel for pickling, you need a flat surface. To get a finished barrel you need:

The skeleton does not need to be boiled or steamed before pulling, although there are those who insist on this. There are times when the workpiece may crack. Then experienced coopers replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut a groove from the bottom at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end; its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. For this purpose it is used special tool- morning. Using a chisel, you need to make a chamfer of 0.1 to 0.2 cm on both sides of the groove.

The bottom is made from a special shield. It is assembled using metal pins or nails. Having drawn a circle, you need to step back from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut out the future bottom. After this, it is cleaned with Sherhebel, and chamfers are cut along the edges. As a result, the thickness of the rivets there will be no more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the structure.

To do the fitting, loosen the bottom hoop and insert the bottom. It is inserted into the groove from one side, and from the other it is adjusted with a hammer to the desired level by lightly tapping. If the movement is tight, you can loosen the hoop a little more; if it moves too loosely, it is better to tighten the hoop.

Next, the hoop is stuffed again, and the barrel is checked for leaks. To do this, pour some water into it. If there is a leak between the rivets, you need to reduce the bottom a little. If water seeps through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is no more than 3 cm, and make a plug for it. Correct sizes It is assumed that it will be slightly larger than the thickness of the bottom and will not protrude beyond the frame. That's the whole sequence that needs to be followed to make an oak barrel with your own hands.

Repair

Is it possible to repair an old barrel? Of course. If in it for a long time an alcoholic drink was stored, it is worth disassembling the structure and removing a layer of about 2 mm thick from the wood. The drink does not penetrate further into the wood. After this, the rivets are processed and reassembled.

You can repair an oak barrel with your own hands, even if it is leaking. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as when making containers - adjust the hoops.

This is what it is, cooperage. Make wooden crafts You can do it yourself, but this requires a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them if today you can order online on the website of the Russian Bondar company?

Preparation of moonshine and alcohol for personal use
absolutely legal!

After the collapse of the USSR, the new government stopped the fight against moonshine. Criminal liability and fines were abolished, and the article banning the production of alcohol-containing products at home was removed from the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. To this day, there is not a single law that prohibits you and me from engaging in our favorite hobby - preparing alcohol at home. This is evidenced by the Federal Law of July 8, 1999 No. 143-FZ “On Administrative Responsibility legal entities(organizations) and individual entrepreneurs for offenses in the field of production and circulation of ethyl alcohol, alcoholic and alcohol-containing products" (Collected Legislation of the Russian Federation, 1999, No. 28, Art. 3476).

Excerpt from Federal Law RF:

“The effect of this Federal Law does not apply to the activities of citizens (individuals) producing products containing ethyl alcohol for purposes other than sale.”

Moonshining in other countries:

In Kazakhstan in accordance with the Code of the Republic of Kazakhstan on Administrative Offenses dated January 30, 2001 N 155, the following liability is provided. Thus, according to Article 335 “Manufacture and sale of home-made alcoholic beverages”, illegal production of moonshine, chacha, mulberry vodka, mash and other alcoholic beverages for the purpose of sale, as well as the sale of these alcoholic beverages, entails a fine in the amount of thirty monthly calculation indices with confiscation of alcoholic beverages , apparatus, raw materials and equipment for their manufacture, as well as money and other valuables received from their sale. However, the law does not prohibit the preparation of alcohol for personal use.

In Ukraine and Belarus things are different. Articles No. 176 and No. 177 of the Code of Ukraine on Administrative Offenses provide for the imposition of fines in the amount of three to ten tax-free minimum wages for the production and storage of moonshine without the purpose of sale, for the storage of devices* for its production without the purpose of sale.

Article 12.43 repeats this information almost word for word. “Production or acquisition of strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), storage of apparatus for their production” in the Code of the Republic of Belarus on Administrative Offenses. Point No. 1 states: “Manufacturing individuals strong alcoholic drinks (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), as well as storage of devices* used for their production - entail a warning or a fine of up to five basic values with confiscation of the specified drinks, semi-finished products and devices.”

*Purchase moonshine stills for home use it is still possible, since their second purpose is to distill water and obtain components for natural cosmetics and perfumes.