The door is upholstered in dermantine. Upholstery of metal and entrance doors, how to make it yourself

Upholstery of metal and wooden entrance doors with dermantin, insulation. Selection of materials for insulation, options decorative upholstery. Step by step instructions.

Reasons for the popularity of dermantine

Dermantin (the correct name is “dermatin”), was invented and began to be used at the beginning of the 20th century to replace natural leather. In terms of strength, durability, and other indicators, it is comparable to it, but costs 50–60% less.

Applicable in various fields: for upholstery of furniture and car interiors, sewing clothes and shoes. In construction and renovation it is used as a universal material for door upholstery, usually entrance doors. Dermantine cladding is done on both wooden and metal doors.

IN Lately the traditional term "dermantine" gives way to the term "vinyl leather" or simply "vinyl".

Dermantin, used for upholstery of entrance doors, has the following qualities:

• durability (resistance to changes in humidity and temperature, exposure to sunlight);
• ease of use (easy to care for, regular soap will suffice);
• environmental friendliness (hypoallergenic, immune to microflora);
• cost-effectiveness (you can change the upholstery without significant costs or assistants);
• aesthetics (wide choice color range, textures, possibility of embossing).

The disadvantages of the material include:

• a specific smell (almost imperceptible, but does not go away over time);
• low resistance to fire (relevant if the door falls into the field of view of hooligans);
• impossibility of repair (damage to dermantine cannot be repaired).

How to choose materials for door upholstery

In the vast majority of cases, simultaneously with upholstery front door dermantin insulates it and increases the level of sound insulation. Therefore, in addition to choosing the fabric for the door trim, you should pay attention to the insulation material, which at the same time plays the role of a noise absorber.

A door decorated with dermantine will retain a presentable appearance for a long time

In addition, visually dermantine is suitable for making the door beautiful and original not only with the help of the material itself, but also through decorative design: nails with heads matching the color of the upholstery, colored wire or cords. In this way, you can not only decorate the outside of the door with traditional “diamonds,” but even depict a certain composition.

Choosing dermantine for door trim

Modern leatherette is conventionally divided into 3 groups by thickness: thin for haberdashery, thick for shoes, medium for upholstery. For a door, a thickness of 0.45–0.7 millimeters is suitable. Color, texture (gloss, embossing) – at the buyer’s choice. As a rule, dermantin is sold in sections 1.2–1.5 meters wide, enough for a door. High-quality leatherette is slightly springy when stretched, and is painted evenly.

It is better to buy artificial leather for upholstery in specialized stores, consulting the seller for advice.

Choosing material for door insulation

The range of materials for insulating and soundproofing doors today can satisfy the most demanding tastes. Among them there are especially popular ones.

• Foamed polyurethane ( polyurethane foam). Rarely used for insulating doors in residential premises, it is usually used for insulating garages, warehouses, industrial premises. Among the advantages is the ability to fill cracks and cavities that cannot be traditional insulation and simplicity of the method. The disadvantage is its price.

  Foamed polyurethane is expensive, but effective method insulation of doors and walls

• Felt. Made from natural wool, so moths view it as a nutrient medium; mice and other rodents take it away to insulate their burrows. The advantage is low cost compared to other insulation materials.

  Felt is cheap, but not the best option for insulating the front door

• Batting. Like felt, it is made from natural materials, the same shortcomings.
• Mineral wool. Accumulates moisture, becomes deformed and falls into lumps. There is still controversy over the carcinogenicity of this material.
• Styrofoam. Perhaps the most popular insulation for doors. High moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, high sound insulation, low cost. Disadvantages: fragility, high flammability with the release of toxic substances during open fire.

  Polystyrene foam is used for insulation almost more often than any other material.

• Foam rubber. Advantages: ease of installation, attractive price. Disadvantages: low moisture resistance and high flammability. Fragility (crumbles after 2-3 seasons).
• Izolon (foamed polyethylene). Universal material with high performance, non-flammable. The foil layer provides the highest heat and noise insulation compared to other insulation materials. The material is simply glued tightly to the door and covered with a second layer. Service life - up to 100 years. The disadvantages include high cost.

  Isolon ensures heat retention of almost 100%

Sometimes multilayer insulation is used. For example, first, isolon is fixed to the inside of the door, and foam rubber is placed on it. And since after a few years the foam rubber begins to “crumble,” the top of the entire structure is covered with batting or similar material, and only then with dermantine.

Other cladding elements

To give the door individuality, the following are used: decorative (usually brass) wire, a strong cord that matches the color and texture, or ordinary fishing line. At the final stage of upholstery, they are passed through nails that are not completely driven into the upholstery, decorating appearance doors. The nails are wrapped in turn in a given order, from one to another, and then driven in completely.

Using a decorative screed you can create a complex pattern on the door

Using decorative nails, you can decorate the door with an image or even text.

Decorative (wallpaper) nails are matched to the color of the coating. Hats can be of any size, shape, color. You can choose nails whose heads will be covered with the same material as the coating. Or, on the contrary, they will harmonize with the fittings: door handle, locks, peephole.

The choice of decorative nails for door trim is almost limitless.

Door trim involves working not only with the door leaf. The door must be located in doorway, decorated in the same or harmonious style. This applies to platbands and door slopes.

Preparing to cover the front door with dermantine

Before starting work, you should make sure that the door is not distorted and that the seal is functioning effectively. If the door is warped, then you first need to solve the problem, and then start covering it. The seal is usually changed every 2-3 seasons (depending on how actively the door is used).

It would not be superfluous to prepare a sketch of the cladding, in the form of a drawing with calculations or a rough sketch of what the door should look like.

Many people do not take into account one important point before starting repairs. Namely: Murphy's basic law works always and everywhere. Let me remind you what it sounds like. “If something can go wrong, it will go wrong.” Even if the door trim looks like a breeze, it will probably take twice as long as planned.

Tools for covering the front door with dermantine:

• scissors;
• screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• hammer;
• nails (for 1 m² of area you will need 50 g of construction nails, and 75 g of decorative nails);
• glue, brush, roller;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• wire (cord, fishing line);
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam.

The list of tools does not include door paint or surface degreasing products. Painting the door is desirable, but not necessary. You can add to it sandpaper (grinding machine) for cleaning traces of corrosion from a metal door and polishing a wooden one.

Standard items like gloves or safety glasses are used when working with wood or metal.

Simple ways to upholster and insulate doors

If you simplify the process as much as possible, you can do without rollers. However, it is usually an integral part of an insulated door.

Roller - an insulation element placed along the edges of the door leaf or on the jambs door frame. Its task is to ensure the tightness of the structure at the points of contact between the ends of the door and the door frame. The future roller is a leatherette strip as long as the part of the door where it will be located, and 10–15 centimeters wide. Remains of insulation or factory material sold in specialized stores are placed inside the tape.

Factory made polyethylene foam roller

Depending on whether the door opens outward or inward, the rollers are attached to the corresponding side. If the door opens inward, rollers are attached to it on 4 sides; if it opens outward, on the top, bottom, and handle side.

The roller can be secured with glue, a construction stapler or nails

The edges of the leatherette tape are folded lengthwise, and the resulting roller is secured with nails or glue. The distance between nails should be 10–15 centimeters. There is a gap left on the handle side for the lock.

Metal door, external cladding

When covering outside doors, in addition to the aesthetic aspect, it is necessary to take into account the impact of aggressive environment. And not only the weather, but also aggressive people. Therefore, the costs for outer skin doors must be weighed against risks. Dermantin cannot be repaired; it can only be replaced completely.

I understand that if you do everything wisely, then the door must be removed for cladding and placed on chairs or a table. Surely then it will be more convenient to work. But on personal experience I can say that on our staircases this is not very convenient. It’s easier to do everything without removing the door from its hinges. As for me, this does not complicate the work very much. I'm talking about the door of an ordinary city apartment. You can find a place at the dacha.

Metal door, interior lining

1. WITH inside The decorative panel (usually a hardboard sheet) is removed from the door.
2. Wooden slats are screwed onto the internal ribs (before this, the ribs of the door leaf and the slats are drilled through).

   Wooden slats are necessary for installing insulation on the inside of the door

3. The gaps between the slats and metal frame filled with polyurethane foam.
4. Cut-to-size pieces of insulation (foam plastic, felt, foam rubber, etc.) are inserted into the resulting cavities.

   Polyurethane foam is needed for sealing

5. The resulting layer of insulation is covered with a sheet of plywood (hardboard). The location is pre-marked on the sheet wooden slats. The sheet is attached only to the slats in the middle of the door; dermantine will be placed underneath it on the sides.
6. You can place another layer of insulation on top of the sheet, it depends on the outside temperature. IN northern regions it's justified. Dermantin is placed on top of the second layer of insulation, its edges are tucked under a sheet of plywood (hardboard). At the corners, edges and in the middle of the sheet, dermantin and plywood sheets are screwed to wooden frame self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the sheet. You can then hide these places with decorative nails.

   Professionals don't count batting ideal material, but it is often used

7. It is important that the dermantine be constantly stretched while nailing it to the door leaf. Then it is nailed along the perimeter with the same decorative nails.
8. Holes for fittings are cut (drilled) in the resulting structure.

Wooden door, paneled inside and out

Differences from a metal door in external cladding not important. The difference is that nails and a staple gun are used to attach the insulation and top covering, rather than glue.

Fastening dermantine with nails begins with the central vertical row (from top to bottom), while the sheathing material must be constantly tensioned. After fixing the dermantine at the top and bottom, both edges of the covering are nailed. Nails around the perimeter of the door leaf can be hidden under the rollers.

The principles of lining a door from the inside are the same as for the exterior.

As of the summer of 2017, it cost me 1,600 rubles to cover a wooden door in a summer house in the country with dermantine. It could have been cheaper, but I took a set for 600 rubles: foam rubber 0.7x2.1 m, thickness 10 mm, dermantine 1.05x2.1 m, 50 nails and 10 meters of fishing line. Another 1000 rubles - birch plywood 1.22x2.44, thickness 9 mm. We dealt with the neighbor in about five hours (with smoke breaks, lunch and afternoon rest).

Decorative door trim

Covering the front door with dermantine allows you to further decorate it with the help of decorative banners. It can be made by stretching a wire or cord between decorative nails, or you can use furniture buttons. They consist of two parts - a metal base with carvings and a decorative cap.

Along with the buttons, you will need one-sided frame profiles to tension the leatherette fabric on the door. The profiles are cut according to the dimensions of the door leaf.

This method of upholstery is called “carriage screed”.

1. Markings are made on the door leaf: using a square and a tape measure, the leaf is divided into 4 parts, and the places where the buttons will be attached are marked.
2. One-sided frame profiles are being prepared into which dermantine will be tucked.

   The “carriage screed” of the door requires a large amount of consumables

3. Mounting adhesive is applied to the places where the buttons will be located. Threaded button parts are attached to it.
4. The profiles are glued around the perimeter of the door.
5. Holes are cut out in the sheet of insulation and dermantine, corresponding to those glued on door leaf buttons

   The holes in the seals must correspond to the markings on the door leaf

6. The insulation is attached between the profiles, the dermantine is stretched from above. Its edges are tucked under the profiles around the perimeter of the door.
7. The upper (decorative) parts of the buttons are screwed on top of the dermantine,

   Buttons must be fastened as securely as possible.

This upholstery option is suitable for both the inside and outside of the door.

External view of a door with a “carriage screed”

This is a labor-intensive option and it is more expensive than a simple door trim, so the door itself with a “carriage tie” must be, if not new, then well preserved.

Video: version of the “carriage screed” door

This method involves planning the entire upholstery process and testing the method on a mock-up. That is, it is better for a beginner to simulate the entire sequence of actions on a “training ground” before upholstery: pieces of wood, insulation and leatherette.

Door upholstery with tiles

Another option for decorating a door lined with dermantine is called tiled. The essence of the method is that the door is sheathed with pieces of leatherette, traditionally in the shape of diamonds) of the same size. In this case, you can use coatings of different colors.

It is better to do markings not with a felt-tip pen, but with a simple pencil

But if you still don’t want to complicate the process, then quite decent results can be achieved without any frills.

Video: a simple way to trim and insulate an entrance door

In conclusion, we can add that it is not for nothing that dermantine has remained one of the main materials for door cladding for many years. It is economical, easy to use for lining and insulating doors, and easy to replace if necessary.

Leatherette– a leather substitute, is one of the most popular materials. The material is most widely used in construction and decoration.

The high demand for leatherette is justified by the following characteristics:

• Frost resistance. The material performs its functions well even with sub-zero temperatures. It also helps retain heat in the house, so it can be used on entrance doors;
• Durability. The material retains its properties from 7 to 10 years;
• Water resistance. The material has moisture-resistant properties, which prevents damage to the product or insulation;
• Soundproofing. The material can be used for the entrance door, since noise will not penetrate into the room through the canvas;
• Easy to care for. To preserve the appearance of leatherette, wiping with a damp cloth is sufficient. You can use a special cream that will add shine to the leatherette;
• Antiseptic properties. Resistant to bacterial rot, mold and other pests;
• Resistance to aggressive chemical environments. The material can be washed with any household chemicals;
• Low cost. Upholstery with leatherette is affordable for the average family;
• Wide range of textures and colors.

In the process of upholstering a product, you need to adhere to a certain technology. It will allow you to make the most of beneficial properties material and will ensure a long service life. The procedure includes the following steps:

1. surface preparation;
2. upholstery with insulation;
3. leatherette upholstery;
4. decor with accessories.

Each stage has its own nuances, so you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the specifics of performing the listed points.

Preparation

If the casing is being replaced, you need to stock up on a knife, pliers and, if necessary, a screwdriver. The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove from hinges.
2. Dismantling of fittings.
3. Using pliers, all decorative nails are removed.
4. Leatherette and insulation are removed. Removing the insulation may take some time if it was attached to the metal door with glue.
5. The surface is prepared for covering.

If the door was not previously chipped, then all the fittings are simply removed. It is necessary to remove all elements that stick out on the surface. There should be a flat surface underneath the leatherette, so you can level the relief using a slab of plywood. It can be secured with ordinary nails. It is important not to forget to treat the wood with special products.

Insulation

First you need to decide on the insulation material. The most suitable for leatherette are:

• Foam rubber. Low price, wide range of densities and thicknesses. Has a service life equal to leatherette. Has average insulating properties;
• Batting. Inexpensive material with a service life of up to 30 years. However, over time it dents and can absorb moisture. It is toxic when burned;
• Izolon (a subtype of polyethylene foam). Most modern version. Has good insulating properties. The most expensive of all materials, but the final cost will not be too high.

On wooden surface The insulation is secured using a stapler. On the outside, you need to retreat up to 8 cm from the edges. Insulation is applied to the entire area, without indentation. Markings are applied for working with a stapler or driving nails. The step between staples or nails should be 10–15 cm. Treatment is carried out along the entire perimeter.

For a metal surface you need glue, which is also applied around the perimeter, up to 8 cm from the edges. Don't forget to cut off the insulation on the handle, lock and peephole.

Preparation of tools and accessories

To use your time efficiently, before upholstery you need to acquire a set necessary tools. The set includes:

• hammer;
• stationery knife and, if necessary, scissors;
• stapler (if not, use a hammer);
• roulette;
• marker;
• brushes (for metal surfaces).

The list of tools and materials for wooden and metal doors is slightly different. Therefore, each material has its own cladding technology. It is also important to acquire all the materials at once:

• leatherette;
• insulation;
• staples or nails (wooden surface);
• glue (metal);
• decorative nails;
• braid (in case you need to additionally fix the leatherette and decorate the door).

Reference! Choosing decorative nails by design will not be difficult, since the market is overflowing with products different shapes, sizes and colors.

Upholstery technology

Working together will go much faster. A second person will help stretch the fabric for comfort and evenness of the relief. The edges of the fabric are always bent inward, which will make the upholstery durable and aesthetically pleasing. The folds should be a few centimeters wide. The wooden door is covered with nails with a decorative cap. Step from 10 to 15 cm.

Important! You need to make sure that the insulating rollers do not peek out from the gates.

Leatherette should not cover the door to the very edges. A few millimeters need to be retreated to ensure free movement.

Curly decoration using decorative nails is often used. Soft insulation allows you to create a relief on the surface, which will completely transform the door. Be sure to use a marker to mark the locations for installing accessories. Next, nails are hammered into the designated places, which usually have a removable decorative cap so as not to damage it during installation.

Exists a large number of patterns that can be created on the surface: from simple dots to geometric shapes such as rhombuses, squares. On the Internet you can find many patterns for decorating with furniture nails. You can stretch a decorative thread between the nails, which will change the pattern and relief.

For a metal door, you need to come up with a design at the preparation stage in order to secure the bases of the screw buttons with glue. Small holes for screw buttons are made in advance in the insulation and leatherette.

Upholstery of a wooden door: video

Upholstery has its own nuances. Wood needs care and protection. Therefore, wooden doors often have an unpresentable appearance. A good option restoration is upholstery with leatherette. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic. When working with a wooden panel, the lining must be secured using a stapler. Since the iron surface requires glue, it is much easier to staple wood. Furniture nails are used on the edges.

To be able to decorate the doors correctly, you must follow the instructions given in the video.

How to cover a metal door with leatherette?

A metal door is usually placed at the entrance, so it is extremely important to use high-quality insulation . Often only the inside is insulated, but a range of decorative accessories allows you to decorate the outside using insulation.

A metal door does not require insulating rollers with outside. The size of the insulation should be 1–2 cm smaller at the edges of the surface area. You need to take a piece of leatherette that is 5–6 cm larger at the edges than the area of ​​the door. This is necessary for bending. The upholstery process consists of the following steps:

1. Glue is applied around the perimeter, retreating up to 2 cm, and in thin strips over the area.
2. Insulation is applied and pressed for a while. The drying time for the glue is indicated on the packaging.
3. Starting from the top, glue is applied to the back of the product at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Press the leatherette until the glue sets.
4. The same procedure is carried out on the lateral edges. It is important to stretch the fabric to a uniform relief. Sometimes you have to cut off extra pieces that will prevent the door from closing.

Upholstery on the inside

The inside of the front door can be insulated with polystyrene foam. Thus, it will also be possible to simplify the procedure for upholstery with leatherette. The insulation process is as follows:

1. A frame under the foam is fixed over the area of ​​the door. For this purpose, planks having the thickness of polystyrene foam boards are used. The slats are fixed using metal screws, which are fixed into pre-drilled holes.
2. All large seams and joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.
3. Foam boards are installed in the frame, which are fixed with special glue. The gaps between the plates and slats are also sealed with polyurethane foam.
4. A sheet of plywood, equal to the area of ​​the door, is nailed to the slats.
5. Next, the procedure is similar to upholstery. wooden products. It is only important to ensure that the decorative nails are nailed to the location of the slats.

On the inside, insulating rollers are attached to the door frame. They should be placed flush with leatherette on the hinge side. WITH reverse side and on top the protrusion should be up to 5 mm. From below, the roller is located at a height of 1.5–2 cm from the floor.

When choosing a material for upholstery, it is important to remember the disadvantages of leatherette:

• Low fire safety. A highly flammable material that emits acrid smoke when burned;
• Not the most durable material, which is easily scratched and cut;
• In case of mechanical damage, it will not be possible to return to its previous appearance.

There is also important points things to consider when choosing leatherette:

• The material must be elastic. The hardness of leatherette indicates a fake;
• Choose a coarser fabric;
• A pungent odor indicates poor quality of the fabric.

When upholstering with leatherette, it is important to maintain the consistency of the process and take into account the characteristics of the materials used. If the technology is not broken, then such upholstery will last up to 10 years.

There is no arguing about tastes and aesthetic preferences, which is why door manufacturers offer entire catalogs of the most varied designs for both the door leaf and the entire entrance group. For those owners who are not satisfied with the contents of the catalogs, enormous opportunities open up for upholstering doors with a mass of materials, one of which, perhaps the most popular, remains faux leather.

How to sheathe doors. Video

How beautiful leather doors are is up to each owner to decide for himself, but it is difficult to blame this coating for its practicality. Dermantin, the price of which is several times lower than genuine leather, and if you buy a domestic, not too dense material for upholstery when used indoors, is inexpensive and available in thousands of shade variations and textures. You can buy everything from crocodile leather to the most incredible and fantastic textures. Yes, and less demanding flat canvases are also on sale.

Upholstering a door with leatherette with your own hands, a video of the process we presented above, does not require any special tools or skills, and you can finish both a wooden and a metal door in this way. Another undoubted advantage of the material is that you can cleverly hide any insulation under it, which will also insulate from excess noise. Moreover, recently you can find ready set for door upholstery, which includes nails with special heads, insulation, rollers and a piece of leatherette of the required size.

Selection and size of leatherette

Leatherette is distinguished not only by color, but also by thickness, so when choosing a material, you should take into account the complexity of the desired surface. The thicker the leatherette, the more difficult it will be to give it a certain shape. But at the same time, thick material is more difficult to damage and retains heat better.

When choosing an upholstery kit, you should pay attention to the cut dimensions, since for metal doors and for wooden size piece will be different. Standard metal doors will require a leatherette cut 12 cm larger than the door leaf, and wooden doors - 15 cm larger than the door leaf. Select special nails with a shaped head large diameter, and the color of the hat can look harmonious with the color of the accessories or blend in color with leatherette. Perhaps a contrasting solution will look interesting if the pattern of the nails is somehow interesting.

Selection of nails and auxiliary materials

As an option, some decorate each hat separately - wrap it or cover it with the remains of leatherette, which also looks whole and harmonious. You can, of course, use foam rubber as a lining. It's cheaper, but it's of no use as insulation. It is better to choose a good and soft insulation, like Isoton. Metal doors are glued with simple Moment glue, following virtually the same algorithm of actions that we will consider for wooden doors.

To upholster wooden doors with leatherette, you will need the usual tools that are found in every home - a hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, a glue brush, construction knife and scissors. Construction stapler will greatly simplify the task, but you can do without it by replacing the staples with thin nails.

Wooden door cladding technology

The main work is done, all that remains is to make rollers from the remains of leatherette to create a pattern on the canvas. In principle, you can use decorative tape for this, and the design can be anything you want. For some reason, rhombuses are incredibly popular. Feng Shui, probably.

Yes, and one more thing. In the word “leatherette” there has never been, is not and will never be the letter N. “Dermos” is Greek for “skin”, and leatherette, accordingly, is the material that replaces it. But in general, in this way you can quickly and inexpensively update the door leaf, give the doors a completely different appearance and at the same time learn something new about the use of borrowed words. Good luck with the renovation everyone!

Upholstering doors with dermantine (vinyl leather) with a backing of foam rubber, padding polyester or batting is a good old method of finishing entrance doors. The purpose of such a coating is noise insulation, thermal insulation, and giving the door an aesthetic appearance. Dermantine upholstery is the most cheap way insulation and door decoration from all possible options.

If the doors are decorated from the inside decorative panels, including solid wood and veneer, metal with an anti-vandal coating is most often left outside, since any expensive upholstery can be damaged by vandals.

Meanwhile, due to the lack of insulation from the outside, both the heat-insulating and sound-proofing characteristics of the door suffer greatly.

It’s even worse if the front door is wooden. True, it retains heat and does not conduct sound, but it suffers from atmospheric influences and from the same vandals.

If the door is old and looks ugly, upholstery with dermantine - great way give it an elegant look. Moreover, it’s cheap, even if you don’t do it yourself. And it is very easy to care for such a coating; you can simply wipe it with a wet cloth.

The color of vinyl leather can be different, and the texture is not necessarily the standard smooth one.

How to upholster with dermantine with your own hands

For upholstery you will need a piece of dermantine, a piece of foam rubber or batting, and decorative nails. It is better to take plastic batting, but in principle any batting will do if you can level it across the canvas without lumps or unevenness. Tools include a hammer, scissors and a screwdriver to remove the fittings.

Video “How to cover a door with dermantine”:

Upholstering doors with dermantine with your own hands is possible even while hanging, but it is still more convenient if the door is in a horizontal position. To do this, you need to remove it from its hinges and place it on a table or four stools. Unscrew all fittings.

How to properly cover a door with dermantine

1. Cut a blank from dermantine along the length and width of the canvas with a minimum allowance of ten centimeters on all sides, as well as three strips for rollers fourteen centimeters wide (for three sides of the canvas, excluding the one facing the loops).

Tip: if you are upholstering wooden doors with dermantine that open inward, then a roller is also made for the hinge side. In this case, the workpiece is not cut so wide, the allowance for the loop side is the same as for the other sides. In this case, the rollers are nailed not to the door, but to the frame.

3. We insulate doors with dermantine. To do this, you need to spread a piece of foam rubber or batting on the canvas to the size of the canvas. Cover the top with dermantine with allowances, the largest allowance is on the side of the loops. Fold the edges so that the edge of the insulation is inside the fold of the dermantine. Nail it.

Video “How to sheathe a door with dermantine with a carriage tie”:

The edge of the panel should completely overlap the edges of the roller and the nails with which the roller is nailed. The upholstery starts from the lock, the nails are located ten centimeters from each other.

4. To make the door trim with dermantine (as in the photo) look beautiful, you need to nail the panel with decorative nails over the entire area. In this form it looks more beautiful, and the material will not move down, forming an untidy fold at the bottom of the canvas.

When calculating the number and location of central nails, you must proceed from aesthetic criterion, but if your filler is not sheet, then it is better to plant nails more often.

Tip: when covering the front door with dermantine, as an additional decorative element, you can use nylon thread, thin wire, fishing line. It is stretched between the nails along the perimeter, and in the center it can be pulled so as to form squares or diamonds.

5. Cut holes for the fittings and put them in place so that they overlap the cut edges.

6. Hang the door on its hinges.

7. Nail the allowance left on the loop side to the corresponding casing, first bending the edge.

The double doors are upholstered in the same way. There will be only one central roller; it should be placed on the sash where the handle is.

Upholstering doors with dermantine is also possible in the reverse order: first sheathe the canvas, and nail the rollers on top of it. But it is unlikely that the vestibule will benefit from such a sequence.

The “lazy” hanging dermantine door trim is no fundamentally different from the classic one. This method can be used if the door is too heavy and removing it requires energy. You won't win anything else: handles, eyes, locks will still have to be screwed together.

Video “Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine”:

To completely remove drafts and improve the fit, it makes sense to do another simple procedure: buy a rubber self-adhesive seal and glue it around the perimeter of the box.

Some believe that door upholstery with dermantine is possible using not rubber, but polyethylene, which is placed on tape. But this, firstly, is completely ugly, and secondly, the polyethylene material is fragile and will tear very quickly.

Today, wooden entrance doors are practically not used. Metal doors are installed in modern private houses and cottages, providing more reliable protection premises. However, many houses still have wooden doors. For example, in a country house or in a rural house, or in an apartment in a multi-story building.

Old street doors need insulation, because Wood tends to dry out, cracks appear in the door leaf, and the door itself can become tightly deformed over time and move away from the frame. All this harms not only the aesthetic component of the door, but also its operational properties. Despite the fact that wood is a good heat insulator, the door block needs additional insulation.

Let's consider in detail how to insulate a wooden door for the winter from the outside and inside so that it does not blow and the cold does not pass into the house. There are several methods of thermal insulation, depending on the type of thermal insulation material used.

How to insulate a wooden door in a private house or apartment

IN standard set Door insulation materials include three components:

1. insulation;
2. seal;
3. decorative material for finishing: dermantine, artificial leather, thick fabric.

You can buy a ready-made kit for insulating the front door (cost from 490 rubles). This set consists of dermantine, foam rubber, rollers for decorating the door, tapes for securing the dermantine around the perimeter and center of the canvas, nails with decorative caps and a sealant.

But, as the masters advise, you can select the necessary materials for the work yourself, i.e. buy separately. It will be, if not cheaper, then better in quality.

• foam rubber(45-900 rubles/sq.m.) Due to the fact that the door leaf of a wooden door is solid, insulation is done on top of it. For this purpose, soft insulation materials that can hold their shape well are best suited. Door insulation with foam rubber is justified by the low price of the material, availability, and ease of installation. It also gives you the opportunity to choose required thickness, because Available in a thickness range from 3 to 100 mm. To insulate a wooden door, foam rubber up to 30 mm thick is used.

• isolon(thickness from 2 to 20 mm). Available in two types: foil (price - 150-270 rubles/sq.m.) and regular (70-80 rubles/sq.m.). The advantage of isolon is the thin thickness of the material, which ensures excellent thermal insulation of wooden doors without significantly increasing their dimensions.

• batting, synthetic padding, felt. These materials can also be used as insulation materials, but they are rarely used;

• mineral wool(price 70-250 rubles/sq.m.) Serves as an excellent insulation, but the thickness of the mineral wool increases the dimensions of the door, which does not make it a good alternative to foam rubber;

• Styrofoam(from 2500 rub./m3). Rigid insulation, used for external insulation of the door. Installation of polystyrene foam requires the manufacture of a frame and the use of rigid decorative material(for the covering panel), which entails an increase in the thickness and weight of the door and the replacement of hinges. And according to thermal insulation properties The foam on the door is similar to foam rubber with dermantine upholstery.

Calculation of the amount of material for insulating a wooden door

• insulation. The area of ​​the insulation is equal to the area of ​​the door leaf. As for the thickness, it should not interfere with the opening of the door. Users recommend using 30 mm thick insulation. It performs its functions well and can be securely fastened with nails;

• seal. The quantity is equal to the perimeter of the door frame;

• upholstery. The length and width of the door plus 300 mm of margin on the top and side.

Note. The amount of reserve depends on the height of the thermal insulation material.

Insulation of a wooden entrance door - technology

Note that in 9 out of 10 cases, the insulation of the doors of a wooden house is done from the outside.

Method 1 - insulation with upholstery

This is the easiest and least labor-intensive method to do it yourself. Dermantin or other finishing material, stretched over a wooden door and secured to it with nails. Due to the thermal insulation lining (foam rubber, synthetic winterizer) and the density of the dermantine itself, a warming effect is achieved.

Method 2 - complete thermal insulation with insulation

This option is more complex, it will take some time to complete, so you need to start work without waiting for the onset of cold weather, or order the services of a specialist. A professional will do the job much faster, but will cost more.

If you decide to insulate your wooden entrance door yourself, you will need step-by-step instruction, describing the order of work:

1. Inspection of the door frame. Often, over time, it becomes deformed, warps, etc., which leads to the appearance of drafts, because it's blowing from under the door. If the door frame is in critical condition (cannot be repaired), it is better to replace the door block. If not, repair it. We will tell you how to do this below.
2. Removing the door from its hinges. It is easier to carry out work if the door is raised above the floor. Users recommend placing it on 2-3 stools. This will also help prevent scratches on the face of the door that faces the floor.
3. Dismantling protruding elements and fittings. You need to remove the locks, handles, linings, peephole.
4. Installation of insulation.
5. Installation of handles, locks and peepholes.

The insulated and padded door is hung on its hinges and its functionality is checked.

How to insulate an old wooden door - video

How to insulate a wooden entrance door in a private house

Ways to cover a door with different types of insulation.

Insulating a wooden door with isolon or foam rubber

Installation of both materials is carried out using the same technology. Glue (liquid nails, dragon or PVA) is applied to the surface of the door and foam rubber/isolon is laid on it. Glue is needed to ensure that the insulation does not move during operation and operation. Subsequently, the insulation is secured with nails.

There are recommendations to fasten foam rubber with a construction stapler. But this is only acceptable if hard material is used as decoration. Otherwise, dents will be visible in those places where the material is pressed by the bracket. Or you need to fasten it in accordance with the intended pattern (scheme) of stud placement.

Advice. At the installation location door handle It is not advisable to install foam rubber, it will interfere with it reverse installation and functioning.

Insulating a wooden door with foam plastic

Installation of polystyrene foam, although rare, is also not difficult.

Option 1. Thin polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam (no thicker than 30 mm) is placed on the surface of the canvas and fixed to the surface using liquid nails and is covered with finishing material.

Note. When installing foam plastic on the outside of a wooden door, its width exactly matches the width of the door leaf. When installed from inside the door, it corresponds to the frame clearance. Otherwise, the door simply will not close.

Option 2. A frame of dry wooden beams with a cross-section of 20x30 is placed on the door leaf. Additional stiffening ribs are installed inside the frame, made from the same timber. The frame is treated with a primer. Polystyrene foam is placed inside the cells. Then it is covered with finishing material.

Note. The disadvantage of such insulation is that the thickness and weight of the door will increase. This in turn will create additional load on the hinges.

Insulating a wooden door with mineral wool

It can be done using either a frame method (like polystyrene foam) or frameless (stapled to the surface of the door leaf). In any case, for cotton wool prerequisite is the use of a hydrobarrier film, which will protect the insulation from moisture.

Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine

Let's briefly look at the technology of how to sheathe a door with dermantine. After the insulation is laid, it is covered with dermantine, which must be wrapped and secured around the perimeter of the door leaf with nails. The dermantine upholstery starts from the top of the door. During the installation process, you need to ensure that the insulation does not move to the side, and that the dermantine is stretched without distortions.

Note. This installation method, despite its obvious simplicity, has a drawback - the place where the dermantine is attached can tear, so rollers are often installed at the place where the dermantine is installed.

Door upholstery with dermantine with rollers

The cladding method involves the use of rollers to cover the place where the dermantine is attached and the gap between the door and the frame, so as not to blow.

It's easy to make rollers - you need to cut strips from the finishing material - 4 pcs. Strip sizes: width 50-200 mm, length equal to door height (2 pcs.) and width (2 pcs.)

Note. If the hinges are installed outside, the bolsters are installed only on the handle side.

The cut pieces of dermantine are attached around the perimeter of the door, and a seal is placed in them round shape(in this case, the width of the workpiece is 50-70 mm), or twisted insulation, or dermantin folded into a roller (then the workpiece reaches a size of 200 mm). Dermantin covers the insulation, is wrapped and fixed around the perimeter.

The use of rollers allows you to beautifully decorate the place where the dermantine is attached to the door leaf and additionally protects against the penetration of cold through the door gap.

How to cover a door with dermantine

Fastening dermantine for door upholstery is carried out using decorative nails.

You should pay attention to the places where the studs are installed, because... their use allows you to further decorate the door. Some methods of installing studs are shown in the photo below. Nails must be driven in strict accordance with the intended pattern. To do this, it is recommended to apply the ornament to the surface of the dermantine using a pencil or washable marker, and then erase it.

Dermantine door upholstery pattern - examples

A beautiful pattern is created by a dermantine ribbon stretched between the nails.

Hiring a specialist to insulate the door will cost a certain amount; approximate prices for the work are shown in the table:

To insulate wooden door in a private house to fully perform its functions, you need to perform a few more actions, namely:

• insulate the door frame. To do this, dismantle the slope and inspect the installation site of the door frame. Assess the condition of the mounting foam that was used to insulate the junction of the box and the wall. If it is unsatisfactory, the foam is cut off and reapplied. A new slope is being formed, which it is advisable to insulate. It is convenient to use cotton wool or polystyrene foam as insulation.

• insulate the door frame. To do this, a polymer or foam seal is glued around the perimeter of the door frame.

Such comprehensive insulation will allow you to get a good result.