If the walls are adobe, how to install a new door. Coordination and features of installation of an opening in a load-bearing wall

There are two ways to support adobe over openings. The first is to make an arch from the adobe itself. Instructions for its construction are in Chapter 13. The second option is to install a lintel, a structural part that carries the wall above the opening. Arches are most suitable for rounded windows or fixed windows with an irregular shape, or for openings without doors or windows, such as passages between rooms. Lintels are necessary when constructing large rectangular openings, especially for opening windows and doors.

Jumpers can be made from almost any material, as long as it is long and durable. Steel, bamboo, driftwood, reinforced concrete- all this applies. Stones, including granite, slate and sandstone, were used as lintels, sometimes in adobe houses. In Wales you can see granite or slate lintels up to 3 meters in length, they have supported for several centuries

Stones of the upper floors. Some of them are so long that a horse-drawn carriage can pass under them.

For adobe, the most suitable are heavy wooden lintels - a specially sawn board, a sawn log or several sticks laid side by side. The tree can be straight or curved. Choose decorative pieces that can be displayed. As we go through doorways and look through the windows, the lintels are visible to everyone who uses the house. The top side will be covered with adobe, so it doesn't have to be nice or flat. The front and bottom sides will be visible, so choose and style them accordingly.

Adobe is monolithic, and therefore very different in structure from most others building systems. The frame structure results in unequal loads, which are concentrated where the frame logs stand. Similarly, but to a lesser extent, brick, block and masonry consist of large number small individual parts, so each part transfers the load differently. Adobe is more like solid concrete. The load is distributed more evenly, so once dry, a large structure is not required over the openings. However, a lot of pressure is exerted while the material is still wet, both by weight and shrinkage. So try to provide temporary supports for all but the shortest and thickest lintels until the adobe dries and hardens.

The lintels must fit into the adobe at least a few centimeters on each side: at least 10 cm, plus 2.5 cm for every 30 cm of the opening length.

If the lintel is installed on fresh adobe, it may sink with the wall, transferring pressure to the window or door, which can lead to cracked glass or a compressed frame. Before laying the lintel on wet adobe, increase the adobe on both sides of the opening slightly higher than the height of the opening - say, a centimeter for every 30 cm of height - so that it remains

Place for shrinking. Better yet, let the adobe settle and dry as much as possible before installing the lintel. When installing windows without frames, if there is a gap between the lintel and the glass after shrinkage, it can be sealed with wooden welding.

CONNECTING ADOBE TO WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES Doors and opening windows are usually hinged to a wooden or sometimes metal frame. Frames, both doors and windows, are subject to different types loads, sometimes sudden and strong - gusts of wind, flapping, children hanging on them, sometimes a break-in (forgot your keys?) It is important that they remain in place. Here are some ways to stabilize frames so they don't move.

Wet adobe is very heavy and can easily bend wooden frames. Before installing in place, the frames must be temporarily spread out. Doors or tall windows must also be supported in a vertical position by installing a support on solid foundation, for example, on the floor or on the opposite wall. If possible, leave the door directly in the frame, closed, with wedges holding up the gaps between it and the frame so that it can then open and close easily. The same goes for windows.

To ensure that the frame never becomes loose, attach it to adobe. For most small windows, it is enough to drive a few nails so that the heads stick out 2-5 cm. You will only need a few nails, and they may be bent and rusty. Finally, there is a use for those old nails that you have been trying to straighten for so many years. TO large windows and light doors can be attached to the outside wooden planks, which will be embedded in adobe. This will strengthen the frame and prevent it from falling out. Trimmings of 5x10 or 5x5 cm are quite suitable, or better yet roundwood branches.

More heavy door more thorough preparation is needed. There are two main anchor systems:

1) Beam - any piece of wood with an uneven surface for better fixation in adobe. This could be a short log with nails partially driven into it, a short, T-shaped structure of beams (10x10 cm, for example), a short section of a thin tree trunk with branch stubs sticking out, or a stump with the roots of a small tree.

Gringo block - a building element made of unfired brick, which is a small open box made of boards 5x15 or 5x10 cm, like thick-walled drawer without bottom. Both beams and gringo blocks are built into walls during construction, leaving one side exposed. Door and window frames, shelves,

Racks and hangers can be attached to these surfaces at later stages of construction.

The easy-to-make gringo block can be held together with screws or nails as shown, using the short ends edged boards. They can be made to any width. Standard sizes can be: 20 cm wide by 30 cm long and 10 cm high, but the walls must be well embedded in adobe. When laying adobe inside a block, carefully stitch it to the wall below it. Once the block is in place, drive small pegs into the inside of the block, leaving a few inches sticking out at the top. The pegs will prevent any attempts to move.

On the hinge side, the door gradually tends to sag, so make additional anchors there. For heavy external door make at least two beams level with the top hinge. The lock part of the frame suffers from impacts, which mainly affect the area of ​​the lock itself, so provide additional fasteners for this part of the frame just below waist level.

Most reliable way installing a door frame means pushing it into place before building the walls. Attach the frame to the foundation, screw anchors to it, insert spacers,

Then build a wall, wall - Opened window and door frames

Howling the anchor as it grows.

A less preferable method is to embed anchors into the wall during construction and attach the frame later. In this case, ensure the vertical alignment of the anchors so that the frame sits level. In any case, make sure that the anchors are stationary in the adobe - if you are using treated wood, stick it with old nails, if you are using part of the wood,

Leave any branches sticking out. If the door is heavy and the wall is thin, use long, uneven sticks rather than gringo blocks.

As with windows, if there is an adobe wall around door frame is built too quickly, then diagonal cracks may appear above upper corners. The adobe will shrink as it dries, and the rigidity of the frame prevents the top of the adobe from shrinking evenly. To avoid this, drive the wall just above the top edge of the frame and wait for the adobe to settle. Measure shrinkage until it stops. This may take a couple of days in dry, hot climates and about a week in rainy or cold weather.

It is possible to make a door or an opening window that will close directly onto the adobe wall, without wooden frame. Of course top part should be arched or with a lintel to support the weight of the adobe above it. To install hinges and locks, you can embed gringo blocks into the walls. We don't know how such frames will behave over time, but adobe jambs will certainly be subject to shock loads from the constant slamming of doors. We would recommend a good durable lime or gypsum plaster for better fit and durability. If you keep the door closed while the plaster dries, the plaster frame will fit exactly to the shape of the door; oil the adjacent edge of the door to prevent the plaster from sticking to the door. If you soften the door with leather, felt or something else, this will protect both the door and the jamb and will promote a tighter seal.

I decided to install the windows myself (70mm profile) triple glazing, I have a house private adobe, lined with brick (total thickness 400mm) At what depth should windows be installed from the outside? How to insulate and make slopes inside and outside the window after installation? Thanks in advance.

According to building regulations and rules window unit should be installed to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the load-bearing wall. If your wall thickness is 400 mm, then (400:3)x2= 266 mm. This means that we measure 134 mm from the outside to the installation line of the double-glazed window and the window will stand along this line. But, here a problem arises if the house is lined with brick flooring, and this is 120 mm, and between brickwork and there is a wall air gap, then it may not be possible to accurately maintain the installation size of 134 mm. Therefore, it would be correct to install the window unit almost flush with adobe wall. All gaps between the window block and the walls of the opening are filled polyurethane foam, and only with foam, not clay. Foam does not destroy the wall material; on the contrary, it fills all the smallest recesses in the walls and reliably connects the window block to the adobe. The only thing that must be done is, before using the foam, moisten with a spray bottle all surfaces of the window opening with which the foam will come into contact.

Gap with outside The windows between the brickwork and the wall can also be foamed, and if its size allows, then thin polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. can be installed in it. Then the surface of the slopes is leveled with plaster, a sickle mesh and finishing plaster are glued onto it. You can also additionally glue a strip of foam plastic, then a serpyanka mesh and then work on it finishing external slope.

To finish internal slopes, you can use plaster or plastic. Plaster is in most cases used to perform such work, as it has excellent characteristics.

Since your house is made of adobe and the walls of such a house breathe very well, it is best to use plaster on the slopes, which has similar properties.

Initially, the first layer of coarse-grained material is applied to the surface of the slope. plaster mixture, with its help the surface of the slopes is leveled. To obtain an even slope line, special perforated corners are installed.

After complete drying starting putty, a fine-grained finish is applied, each layer of which is processed with sandpaper.

Depending on the surface defects of the window opening, there may be several such layers, so it is necessary to apply them in thin layers - both starting layers and finishing layers, otherwise the entire plaster may simply move away from the wall of the house and collapse. After drying, the slopes can be painted in any color.

If you use plastic. When choosing such a material, it is worth considering that plastic is a fairly airtight material and if an adobe house breathes and is not heated in cold weather, then moisture will collect under the finishing. It will not reach the surface of the plastic, but over time it may begin to destroy the structure of the building material.

Plastic is very practical and can be used in slopes on any surface. It does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean. About its service life we ​​can say that it ends when the plastic plate is deformed. And so the material can last a very long time.

In my own way appearance It has a large assortment, and create original design slopes will not be difficult.

Plastic can be mounted on a slope only on a special sheathing, and to finish the slopes it is not necessary to make it too high. This can hide the space of the window opening itself.

To prevent moisture from collecting under this type of finish, before installation on a slope it is worth doing preparatory work. They consist of isolation. For this purpose, lightweight materials are used, such as polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam of small thickness. They are cut and inserted into the sheathing.

You can choose plastic whose width will correspond to the width of the slope. Thus, it is possible to save money and time on finishing.

Installation of such material is quite simple. It uses a starter strip that is attached at the bottom and top of the slope and plastic strips or panels are inserted into it. The fastening elements are special locks, which are located at their end.

There are plastic sandwiches with insulation (see photo on the right), but this is not suitable for arranging slopes in your home.

Adobe house. It talks about how to arrange door and window openings adobe (earth-raised) buildings.

Adobe houses are no longer as popular as they used to be. But in vain. After all, adobe is made from clay and is the most environmentally friendly pure material. Adobe houses are warm in winter and cool in summer. The process of making adobe does not require large investments. The material is cheap and practical; erecting walls from adobe also does not require special skills. You can even build from adobe two-story houses. But today we will talk about the construction of windows and doors adobe house.

During the construction of earthen (clay, adobe) walls, temporary boxes are left in places where door or window openings are provided, which maintain the integrity of the openings during the construction of the building. After arranging the roof of the adobe house, you can begin inserting windows and doors. To do this, you need to knock out the spacers, then carefully remove the boards.

Inserting permanent window frames

Window boxes need to be prepared in advance. The box is installed in a strictly vertical position. It should have the same setback from the wall mass on all sides. In this position, the box is fixed with wooden wedges. After installing the block into the opening, before final fastening, you must carefully check the evenness of the block using building level and/or plumb line. The evenness of the installation can also be checked by measuring the diagonals of the block. Every vertical beam The door/window frame must be attached to the wall in at least two places. To fasten the box, screws and pipe cleaners are used (length - 15 cm).

Sealing boxes

The gaps between the wall and the frame are sealed with polyurethane foam or carefully sealed with a tow rope: loops are made from the rope, which are used to fill the groove. After the final sealing of all the cracks, the space between the wall and the frame must be puttied.

Window sill device

Windows with inside are equipped with a window sill in which the side slots are closed with slats, and the top gap is closed with a board. The upper gap should be approximately 5 cm wide. The board must be nailed so that the settlement of the walls does not lead to deformation of the window frame.

Frame preparation

Prefabricated windows, if they are only slightly saturated with paint, must be profiled, then the main paint is applied to them. Now they can be glazed and varnished. The window sashes are hung only after the walls are finished.

Doors

The installation and installation of doors is carried out in the following sequence: dismantling the temporary frame, aligning and installing the permanent frame, sealing and filling the cracks, hanging door leaf. Therefore, installing a door is an event that has the same internal logic as installing windows.

In this way, the adobe house is equipped with windows and doors. As you can see this is also not an easy process, requiring certain skills and abilities. Happy construction!

What house do you live in? If in adobe, please share your experience of building an adobe house - please comment. Do you want to continue articles about adobe houses?

Many homeowners, planning a thorough renovation of their apartment, decide to remodel by arranging an opening in load-bearing wall. Such a need may arise if you decide to increase the size of the bathroom, combine the kitchen with the living room, or turn the apartment into a studio. For residents of panel high-rise buildings, creating openings in load-bearing walls is not only a problem from the point of view attractive design. Redevelopment will require a competent technical approach, coordination with utility services, obtaining permits and compliance with hole-punching technology. In this article we will look at how to make and legitimize an opening in a load-bearing wall.

A load-bearing wall is a wall that supports the floors. Design panel house assumes the presence of such blocks as vertical support for the slabs. Such dismantling without installing supporting mechanisms will cause the slabs on top to crack, resulting in cracks along the floor and walls of the apartment above you. If the problem is not eliminated in time, the building may collapse.

As you can see, capital walls are extremely important element in the structure of the entire house. Their location can be determined thanks to the housing plan, which is indicated in the technical passport. You can familiarize yourself with the scheme at the Technical Inventory Bureau or at the Housing Office. On the apartment diagram, the main partitions will be highlighted with thick lines.

If you do not have access to necessary documents, you can try to identify such a wall yourself. Pay attention to the thickness - as a rule, load-bearing slabs wider. Almost all load-bearing blocks located at the junction of apartments and at the junction of an apartment and a flight of stairs.

If you are not sure whether this wall is permanent or ordinary, remember: expanding the opening in the load-bearing wall will in any case require a special permit, and specialists from the Housing Inspectorate who will issue it will provide an explanation on this issue.

Is an opening allowed?

Making an opening in is possible in many cases. It is not uncommon for apartment owners to hear refusals. There are several reasons for the decision:

1. Outdated load-bearing structures of the entire building. The fact is that every house has its own age, and if yours is more than 20 years old, and major renovation has never been done, then making an opening in the load-bearing wall of the house is fraught with negative consequences.
2. A door in a load-bearing wall on the floor above or below will make redevelopment of your apartment impossible. It is important to pay attention to the location of such holes - they should not be located exactly on top of each other.
3. Another reason for refusal is the number of floors of the apartment. For the first and second floor apartments it turns out maximum pressure, therefore, here the probability of obtaining permission to cut a hole is minimal.
4. Presence of construction defects. There are discrepancies in houses delivered with violations of construction technology interpanel seams, gaps between ceilings and blocks and other defects. In such cases, you will receive either a categorical refusal or demands for additional reinforcement of the wall.
5. House wall material. In houses with brick walls It is easier to obtain permission to punch holes than in panel or monolithic buildings.

Remember: before starting redevelopment, it is necessary to approve the opening in the load-bearing wall.

You will need a number of documents and certificates, but it is better to get them right away than to worry about it later. Housing inspection if an uncoordinated redevelopment is identified, it has every right to issue you a fine in the amount of 3 thousand rubles. The fine is small, but besides it you will still be required to obtain a permit. If, according to the results of the inspection, the cut doors in the load-bearing wall turn out to be defective, you will be forced to fill in the hole, as a result of which all your renovation work will turn out to be meaningless.

An apartment with unauthorized changes cannot be officially sold.

Is it possible to demolish the whole thing?

Demolition of a permanent partition is definitely not possible and not a single specialist will give permission for this. Complete dismantling of supporting structures risks the collapse of ceiling slabs.

What you need

To make an opening, you need:

• project documents. This item refers to the reconstruction plan made by the design engineer. To make a remodeling plan, you need to contact the design institute. Even more a good option will be an appeal to the design department of the same construction company, who was engaged in the construction of the house. After the engineer has determined whether housing reconstruction is possible and in what form, he will draw up a final plan and issue a package of design documents (resolution regarding bearing capacity walls and ceilings, floor plan, where places for demolition and construction of partitions will be marked, definition structural elements, affecting the method of strengthening the opening);
• statement. The application is written to the housing inspectorate personally by you on a special form;
• documents confirming ownership of the apartment. The types of such documents vary depending on the form of obtaining housing (privatization, by inheritance, by court decision, and so on). In any case, you must have a copy of the certificate of ownership of housing, certified by the city BTI;
• technical report on the condition of the building and the possibility of arranging the opening (issued by the design institute);
• permission for redevelopment from the apartment owners and owners of neighboring premises (in writing);
• an agreement with a contractor who has an SRO permit. Since partial dismantling load-bearing structure refers to work that is not carried out by residents themselves; subsequently, to confirm the completion of the redevelopment, you will need to present an SRO permit, which your contractor must have. Without permission, you will not receive a construction completion certificate, so it is better not to skimp on the contractor company.

As a result of receiving all permits from the housing inspectorate, the owner is issued a Work Progress Log, in which it is necessary to record all stages of the repair. Moreover, it is necessary to record the progress of work honestly and in detail, since deviations and inaccuracies in the log are grounds for refusing to issue the owner with a certificate of completion of construction work.

As for the technology itself, it will depend on the type of opening - rectangular, arched. In any case, punching a hole is not recommended. It should be cut, which is done with a non-impact tool - a diamond wheel. Cutting with such a tool can be carried out stationary and manually, depending on the material and volume of work. As a result of cutting, less dust is generated and the hole does not require additional processing.