How and with what can you cut wooden sleepers? Chainsaw help Cutting a rail with a hacksaw.

Railroad maintenance involves cutting out worn sections of rails using special equipment. This material will discuss how to cut a rail at home (or garage), which tools are more effective, how to proceed in each case, and what are the advantages of one or another method.

Despite the apparent complexity of the operation, divide metal element into small sections is easy. To do this, you can use one of the following devices:

• sewing needle;
• chisel;
• hacksaw();
• grinder;
• rail cutter.

Each method is complicated in its own way, but the expected result (the rail cut into pieces) will be obtained. Now - in detail about each technique.

Cutting with a sewing needle

The method was popular in the last century, when more convenient devices There were no metal rails for cutting. In this case, the product was not sawed, but broke.

Principle of operation:

• the edges of the rail are installed on two supports with the base down;
• a thick sewing needle is placed perpendicular to the product at the intended fracture site;
• a sledgehammer makes a strong and precise blow to the place where the needle is attached, as a result of which the rail is cut in half.

Advantages of the method:

• rapidity;
• minimum of available means;
• low risk of injury;
• the ability to do the work alone.

Flaws:

• experience is required - it is not easy to hit the right place accurately;
• the cut line sometimes turns out to be crooked;
• it is necessary to strike only one precise blow; with several unsuccessful attempts the integrity of the canvas will be compromised.

Using a chisel

Here, too, the metal workpiece is divided not by cutting, but by impact.

Subsequence:

• install the rail as in the point above;
• along the entire perimeter, using a chisel and a hammer (mallet), notches of small depth (1-2 mm) are made;
• a sledgehammer is used to hit the notches and the rail splits.

The advantages and disadvantages of the technique are the same as those mentioned above, only it takes a little more time.

Cutting a rail with a hacksaw

A popular method, although energy-consuming. It is important to know several requirements for the saw blade:

• the handle is comfortable, located not horizontally, but vertically, slightly tilted towards the movement “away from you”;
• there is a coating on the teeth of the canvas;
• the teeth are located in the direction “away from you”;
• when working, move the blade so that the contact area of ​​the teeth with the cutting surface is maximum;
• Select the blade based on the density and hardness of the rail material.

How to cut a rail with a hacksaw? The sequence is:

• the rail is placed on a horizontal surface;
• if a precise cut is required, you should use a chisel to make notches on the base;
• saw through the base on both sides to the neck of the rail;
• place a stop under the cut;
• perform a targeted blow with a sledgehammer.

There are other ways to divide a sawn rail into two parts. For example, drop it from a height if you have a loader at hand.

Advantages:

• the method is safe;
• sawing takes place without unnecessary noise;
• equipment for work is inexpensive.

Flaws:

• the process may take more than an hour (depending on professionalism);
• You will need several saw blades (3-7 depending on their quality).

Using a grinder

A professional tool will save time on cutting the rail. Experienced people claim that two disks with a diameter of 150 mm are enough to cut a classic rail railway(P65, P75).

The work is done in a similar way - the base is sawed off on both sides, then a blow with a sledgehammer follows. The operation will take 5-10 minutes.

Advantages:

• rapidity;
• efficiency;
• minimum consumables.

Flaws:

• danger of injury (the disc may “bite” and lead to breakdown, flying sparks will get into the eyes, etc.);
• noise during operation;
• high price for equipment (if you didn’t have an angle grinder before, it’s pointless to spend several thousand rubles);
• the method is bad for home conditions due to the resulting dust, dirt, and metal shavings.

Application of rail cutters

Another method of quickly dividing rails into fractions, which is not entirely suitable for home use, but is worth considering. Rail cutter is professional equipment, used for various types products. It is usually used on railway tracks for the purpose of quick recovery tracks to avoid train delays. For example, two devices are considered below.

Rail cutting machine RM5GM

Peculiarities:

• acts as a cutter hacksaw blade 400 or 450 mm long, which makes the equipment resemble a reciprocating saw;
• there is a grip for fixing products;
• the presence of hydraulic clamp allows you to apply maximum force to the point of contact during the working stroke and unload during idle (reverse).

The cutting time of one P65 rail into 2 parts is about 11 minutes. The device weighs 90 kg and has dimensions of 1465x505x460 mm, so it is not considered suitable for home use.

Husqvarna K 1260 rail cutting machine (Partner K-1250 Rail)

Peculiarities:

• power almost 6 kW (higher than that of PM5GM);
• working body - a cutting disc with a diameter of 350 or 400 mm (the principle of operation is the same as that of an angle grinder);
• mass without additional equipment- 20 kg.

The device will cut the same P65 5 times faster than the machine discussed earlier. Compactness, relative lightness, and efficiency make it possible to use it for cutting products at home. The only disadvantage of the equipment is the high cost (more than 100,000 rubles).

Which method to choose

To make a decision, you need to consider a number of factors. Among them are the costs of work (finance and time), noise, duration of the process, necessity outside help. From a safety point of view, cutting with a reciprocating saw is an attractive method. From the point of view of speed - an angle grinder or a rail cutter.

The last tool is a little expensive for most craftsmen, so it is recommended to use two methods - using a reciprocating saw (metal hacksaw) or a grinder with cutting discs. By being aware of how to quickly cut a rail, the user can quickly achieve the desired result.

Finally, an interesting video

In the section on the question how to cut a reinforced concrete sleeper? I want to make a foundation, but the sleepers are long and I need to bandage them, how can I break them? given by the author Forward The best answer is that you can cut it with a diamond disc without any problems. The idea is great, it’s perfect for the sole, BUT.... There are a number of nuances. J.b. sleepers have prestressed reinforcement with a diameter of 3 mm. , approximately 40 rods. If the sleeper works in a gurunt, then the reinforcement can rot quite quickly and the sleeper will lose its properties; concrete without bending reinforcement does not work. Sleepers work on sand-gravel preparation, i.e. on railway. d. embankments where there is no impact groundwater, so they live on a piece of iron for a long time. In general, if you use sleepers, you need to create them comfortable conditions, for example, to make drainage, and good waterproofing, it is better to paste it to get rid of capillary movement of moisture. According to the rules, foundations are not reinforced with reinforcement less than 12 mm. in diameter.

Answer from 22 answers[guru]

Hello! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: how to cut a reinforced concrete sleeper? I want to make a foundation, but the sleepers are long and I need to bandage them, how can I break them?

Answer from European[newbie]
sit on it

Answer from Woke up[guru]
They break like a sledgehammer - with 2 hits. Use a grinder to saw off iron

Answer from Alexander Schefer[guru]
You take an ISC 633 saw with a diamond chain and cut it off. Delov something.

Answer from Guy from the Future...[guru]
Well, if we use a grinder, then with a diamond on reinforced concrete. checked. in concrete on reinforcement they do not burn

Answer from Yotary Plinth[guru]
A powerful grinder and a cutting abrasive wheel for concrete... works together with the reinforcement...

Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 15:19

Hello everyone!!! Comrades, please, provide Help with this trick: I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. For all sorts of different country needs. Here it was necessary to cut down the railway sleepers. I cut about a dozen and...... away we go, the chain either tightens or loosens on its own, jumping off the tire. I adjusted the tension regularly, cleaned the bar and saw. The chain became dull in one fell swoop. Upon closer inspection, I find out that the tire has darkened around the edges! Sparks are noticeable when the chain moves. There is oil in the sawdust, but somehow it’s not enough. I'm blaming the chain for insufficient lubrication. When purchasing, it was recommended to fill in any oil, except for waste oil; I filled in semi-synthetic oil from BP, which was left over from replacing it in the car. Maybe I messed up here? I really need a saw for the next shoot. What recommendations do you recommend?
ZY Before this saw, I only saw them in pictures and on TV!

kaizer2007 01-08-2010 15:26

Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 16:51

First of all, if the chain is scorched and it becomes dull, change it.

The chain has darkened noticeably. Sharpening won't save the "patient"?

Mikhai 01-08-2010 17:15

Sharpening won't save the "patient"?

Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 17:24

No. Replacement only. Better together with the tire.

However! I'd like a reason understand that there is still the same kind of work ahead. God be with him, you can change the tire and chain once, but every weekend, it’s going to be a bit steep. Still, can you tell me at least an approximate reason for such consumption of tires and chains? Wrong oil?

kaizer2007 01-08-2010 18:02

quote: Originally posted by Igoreh@:

However! I wish I could understand the reason; there is still the same kind of work ahead. God be with him, you can change the tire and chain once, but every weekend, it’s going to be a bit steep. Still, can you tell me at least an approximate reason for such consumption of tires and chains? Wrong oil?

Probably not the same tree.
Each chain and bar are designed for a certain hardness of the wood species.
We went a little too far with sawing.
Regarding the replacement of the tire, I will express my opinion - it is possible to replace the corresponding
chains - try sawing, if it’s not so good, then change the tire.
Before replacing -go to the manufacturer's website- Additional Information will also help in the future.

Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 18:09

quote: Originally posted by kaizer2007:

Probably not the same tree.

Yes, it's definitely not the same tree. The sleepers are covered in creosote, although they are old. I see, thanks, I'll go search now.

Mikhai 01-08-2010 20:24

quote: Originally posted by Igoreh@:

The sleepers are covered in creosote, although they are old.

One little advice: soak the tire in kerosene, rinse, dry and be sure to regularly fill the sprocket bearing with lithol (there are two tiny holes there, conveniently with a syringe without a needle).

Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 20:47

quote: Originally posted by Mikhai:

If I'm not mistaken, the manual says that old trees and dead wood contribute to the speedy failure of both the chain and the tire.

Yes, I read it, but there is no way out. Thanks for the advice! I cleaned it with kerosene (or rather with VeDeshka, everything is not so bad with the tire. The black marks are most likely from creasote, washed off with a mixture of gasoline and Vedeshka. I’m not an expert, but nothing more suspicious was found, I think it will last. With the chain it’s worse, the verdict is the same, change it. I was thinking about finding a chain that is more wear-resistant for my case, but as always there is no meaningful information on the official website.

Serjant 01-08-2010 22:41

You need a chain with carbide teeth.
It costs as much as a small plane, but it lasts a long time.

quote: Recently I had to cut down the railway sleepers.

for yourself or for money??
If you don't mind drowning them right away in the nearest swamp.
if for money, the person must be put under the condition that the purchase of a new chain and tire is for him. anyway.
Otherwise, let him drown in a swamp for that kind of money...

Igoreh@ 01-08-2010 23:24

for yourself or for money??

No, not for yourself and not for money. I help my parents; there is a lot of construction going on there. I’m building something like a barn in such a way that I have no one to ask but myself, sleepers and I can’t drown them in a swamp either, for obvious reasons. Of course, all this does not justify using a saw that costs more than these sleepers. but they decided, and it’s not customary for us to contradict. Naturally, there is simply no one to demand compensation from, except yourself.

quote: Originally posted by Serjant:

and sharpen a regular chain periodically.

Sharpening won’t fix the problem, I’ll look for a chain with tungsten carbide and can’t find it, I’ll buy a pair of simple ones, where should I go?

Serjant 01-08-2010 23:43

quote: No, not for yourself and not for money. I help my parents; there is a lot of construction going on there.

throw these sleepers completely out of the area. and the faster the better.

1. they stink. Always. under any conditions.
2. the smell is never erased by anything.
3. Poisonous impregnation of sleepers will never improve anyone’s health. (unless you want to speed up the process of burying 7 feet underground)
4. they stink.

If you have a benzucha, mowing down an aspen or a club in the forest is a piece of cake, but if you have a second eagle like you, dragging aspen trees the size of a sleeper is a matter of no harm.

Igoreh@ 02-08-2010 12:24

quote: Originally posted by Serjant:

PS. Drink has nothing to do with it. We think head on, there is no need to use sleepers in construction, especially for yourself and your loved ones.

It’s too late to drink Borjomi The old people can’t be changed, but something can be done with the poison. The premises are not residential, there are simply no open sleepers left, there are plans and experience in isolating creasote.

Monolit-kbf 02-08-2010 08:37

quote: Originally posted by Serjant:

and forget about the sleepers as building material. forget it altogether. poisonous rubbish and dirty tricks.

I completely agree. In cold, especially frosty weather, creosote does not smell or evaporate, but in hot weather... While working as a telecommunications electrician, I worked quite a bit on creosote supports.
1\2 off. A friend complained at one time that there were rats in the barn with the chickens. And one day he stacked the sawn logs from the creosote supports in this shed. The rats are gone. The chickens died too

I usually use a chainsaw for this purpose, and the Stihl MS 180 is quite suitable. It cuts quite easily, despite the fact that sleepers can even be made from larch. But! There is one huge but... you will have to sharpen the chain quite often, since the sleeper is used and it is full of stones and dirt, and they dull the chain very quickly. So get a file, preferably more than one, and cut the sleeper the way you need it.

Of course, one sleeper can be sawed with a two-handed saw, but this is only if there is one. For the rest, it would be advisable to use manual gasoline saw. Also, if you don’t mind using a woodworking machine, you can cut it on it. This will even be even faster and easier, but the saws there are even more expensive. As for household needs, when it comes to building outbuildings, then, of course, a good and reliable chainsaw is irreplaceable.

Of course, such a thickness will be easier to cut with a chainsaw. If there is no such tool, then the last option is a friendship saw. Cutting sleepers with a one-handed saw will be extremely difficult and time consuming. I’m sure after the first sleeper my hand will be completely clogged. So my advice is definitely a chainsaw.

Yours band sawmill have all the necessary settings been installed and made? So it’s time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. In order to really get quality material, it is necessary to correctly install the log and secure it with special clamps.

The quality also depends on the correct calculation of the quantity and type of material you want to get from this log.

Having gained further experience, one glance at a log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt part of the log is. The butt part is usually larger in diameter than the apex. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.

How to calculate a log

So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate according to the diameter approximate quantity material and proceed to further actions.

Firstly.

We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly straight trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as croaker. When the log is laid and fixed, you should make sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.

Set the diameter size on the ruler of the sawmill, and to this size add the greatest height of the convexity of the log. This is the bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.

Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and start counting the dimensions from this size required material, taking into account the cut size, which ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

Secondly.

As soon as the cutting width reaches required size, and the remaining height of the log reached the right size, it is turned over. That is, if you cut a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the remaining log should correspond to this value, even be greater, taking into account the removal of the slab.

To do this, after turning the log over, start calculating from the final size to full use the height of the log, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

For example, you have a log on your overpass that you have cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's turn the log over and continue.

The final result we want to achieve is a carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Next, in a simple way, calculate that 260 mm-150 mm = 110 mm. We get as much as 110 mm thickness additional material. And it is precisely this that needs to be calculated correctly.

We take this additional size and calculate it to get the block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50 = 60, don’t forget the cut, and for us it is 2 mm, 60-2 = 58 mm, then the plank, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, hump 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.

As you can see, from our calculations, we get 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm gorge and 50 mm block. And the final size will be 150 mm.

Possible mistakes

As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmills make mistakes in calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to it for the cut, otherwise it will be 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we get it as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 = 202 mm.

If it is necessary to obtain edged material, we turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations as described above.

So you have cut your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when making calculations is that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take this fact into account. And don't make such mistakes.

In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will happen automatically in your head; it will be enough to look at the log.

We are sure that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.