How to cover windows with facing tiles. Do-it-yourself window slopes and window sill

Separately on each wall separately, working along horizontal guide strips. Be careful when installing horizontal guides on adjacent walls - they must be at the same level. Even with a slight discrepancy in levels, the vertical rows will diverge, and if up to the ceiling, the horizontal rows will not coincide along the joint line above the door.

Window cladding

When tiling a window opening, first tile the front wall with whole tiles, then lay and tile the side walls of the niche and the window sill.
If the door is in the center of the wall and you are installing tiles up to the ceiling, arrange the tiles to avoid narrow tiles near the door and in the corners of the room.
If the door is in a corner, tile two walls first, then cut and install the tiles above the door.

Techniques for lining a window niche are also used for lining a doorway.

Finishing a window niche - step 1

If you are tiling a wall to the ceiling, place all intact tiles to the side of the window, but not above the window. Attach the strip to the wall so that its top edge is level with the bottom edge of the lowest row of whole tiles above the top of the window. This strip will serve as a support for the whole tiles laid above the window.

Step 2

Lay the cut tiles along the sides of the window. Start at the windowsill.
To fit the tiles to the window sill, you may need to make an L-cut or use wire cutters. To make cutting tiles easier, plan your layout in advance.

Step 3

If you need to cut an L-shaped cut into the tile, mark the cut lines on the face of the tile. Clamp the tile in a vice between wooden blocks and make the first cut with a saw. Make a second cut and break out a piece of tile; Clean the edges with a file. Clamp thin tiles horizontally to prevent them from cracking.

Step 4

Let the mastic set, then remove the trim at the top of the window and lay the remaining tiles on the wall. The corner tiles may need to be cut into an L shape. To avoid having to use narrow strips that are difficult to cut, plan your tile layout in advance.

Step 5

If you need to cut a narrow strip from a tile, make a notch along the cut line with a cutter, then break off the excess pieces with pliers. Clean the edge with a tile file. (Having made a curved notch with a hand cutter, you can use wire cutters to make a cutout of the appropriate shape).

Step 6

Lay whole tiles inside the window niche. If the tiles do not have spacers, use spacers to create a cemented gap between the bottom tiles and the sill.

Step 7

Finally, measure and cut each tile for the sidewall portion of the window niche adjacent to the window frame. After the mastic has set (after about 4 hours), the joints can be cemented.
In the inner corner, cut and lay the tiles of the last vertical row on one wall so that they fit into the corner.
Then lay the final vertical row of tiles on the second wall, using inserts to create a cemented gap in the corner between the two vertical rows.
On an outside corner, lay a full tile on each side of the corner.

Drawings of tiling in corners

Installation of new window and door units requires mandatory finishing of the slopes, because... Without this, the reliability of the installation will be much less, and you can’t count on a beautiful appearance - a bare wall with traces of polyurethane foam is unlikely to fit into the interior. Various materials can be used for lining slopes:

plastic cladding is the most economical option, but the appearance leaves much to be desired;
plasterboard cladding is a standard option, moderately complex, pleasant to look and feel;
cladding with natural or artificial stone - used only when the interior design concept requires it; this is the most expensive and complex type.

Something in between standard and elite cladding is the cladding of door and window slopes with tiles; this option can be used in the most different interiors, a wide variety of colors and textures of tiles allow you to create either just a flat, monochromatic surface or entire compositions. This type of cladding is much simpler than working with stone, but certain nuances of the work must be taken into account and observed.

Tiling door and window slopes - the main subtleties

An important requirement when facing slopes is that they must be level. Therefore, the surface must be pre-prepared, leveled and dried. Special attention need to pay attention to the corners. When choosing a material for leveling, you need to take into account that the tiles will be laid on top of it.

It is unlikely that you will be able to do without cutting the tiles, so you need to start the job correctly. It should be lined from external corner, only a whole tile should be laid here, and when you get to the interface with window block or door frame, lay cut tiles. If the opening is located in the middle of the wall being tiled, then you need to calculate the installation in such a way that there are no narrow fragments of tiles along the edges of the wall and at the door slopes.

Direct tiling of door and window slopes with tiles can be done in several ways, offering various options joining of treated surfaces. This is perhaps the most difficult process, because in itself, laying tiles on slopes does not have any special conditions. But joining two surfaces - a wall and a slope - can create many difficulties.

Methods for joining surfaces

The first option is to cut the tiles with reverse side at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, theoretically, a high-quality monolithic joint will be obtained. In practice, everything is much more complicated - cutting tiles at the same angle is very problematic, the process itself takes a lot of time, and the weakened edge may begin to collapse over time.

The second option is to use special fittings. There are special plastic or aluminum corners on sale that securely hold the edges of the tiles and cover the joint. Options are offered for both external and internal joints; the corners have different dimensions, shapes and colors. When using corners, the slope is first lined, then the corner is mounted, then the other side is lined. It is important to fix the tile tightly in the corner, otherwise the connection will be flimsy and may move away from the wall.

Technology for tiling slopes/video:

The third option is to use corners together with grout. In this case, first the door and window slopes are tiled, then the wall is tiled, after which all joints are thoroughly rubbed. Excess grout is removed, and the corner joint is closed with a plastic corner attached to liquid nails.

The fourth option is the most expensive, but the most basic. It consists of using tiles that have the same color throughout the entire thickness. In this case, the joints will not be noticeable, and cover them additional funds not required.

Of course, the work in this area of the façade does not end with the installation of window frames. Ahead lies a rather complex and responsible operation of finishing window slopes. And this is not only to give the appearance of the building a finished look, the intended design. There are also more important from a practical point of view, the reasons.

Finishing the slopes of windows from the outside can be done using several technologies and using different materials. To decide on their choice, you need to consider the most affordable options for doing it yourself.

Why is it necessary to finish window slopes from the outside?

So, finishing the slopes of windows from the outside is necessary not only for the reason of adding aesthetics to the facade. Much more serious goals are being pursued that directly affect the comfort of living in the house.

When installing new window frames into openings during construction, or when replacing them during reconstruction or repairs, they are never mounted close to wall structure. It is mandatory to leave certain gaps on all sides, which are necessary to compensate for possible “movements”, for example, during shrinkage of the building or even during seismic tremors. Otherwise, even a small change in the geometry of the walls, including a temporary one, can skew the windows, completely deform them, squeeze out the glass, etc.

Naturally, such gaps become loopholes for the cold. For a long time, during construction, they were filled with natural insulation materials - tow, felt, wool, etc. But if you leave these insulating padding layers without necessary protection, their life will not be long. They quickly begin to age, are taken away by birds for nests, under the influence of precipitation and simply atmospheric humidity, they get wet, losing their qualities, and begin to rot and rot.

Over time, to replace such natural insulation materials materials arrived industrial production, for example mineral wool. It may not be so attractive to birds and does not rot, but exposure to water in combination with exposure to frost leads to matting, increased fragility of the fibers and a sharp loss of insulating qualities.

Recently, polyurethane foam has been used to seal and insulate such expansion gaps. This is great material, copes with the task perfectly. But it cannot boast of exemplary durability if it is not protected. Consolidated Impact ultraviolet rays, humidity, wind and temperature changes can very quickly “age” frozen polyurethane foam - the foam begins to crumble, and such sealing will be of little use.

Therefore, insulated seams between the wall and the frame must be covered with a material more resistant to natural influences. This, by the way, will further increase the thermal insulation qualities of this area. And since it is human nature to be drawn to beauty and neatness, they also try to give such decoration the most attractive appearance. That is, the work is planned and carried out with unconditional consideration of the decorative qualities of the created façade appearance.

Methods for finishing external slopes and materials for these purposes

Not so long ago, the only ways to finish slopes were to level them with mortar, followed by whitewashing or painting - for stone houses, or wood paneling - for, respectively, wooden ones. Nowadays, owners are provided with a fairly wide selection of materials that can not only aesthetically transform the appearance of the facade, but also create reliable protection for the thermal insulation layer around the perimeter of the window frames.

So, the following materials can be used for finishing slopes:

Cement mortar. This trim finish should not be excluded from popular methods, as many homeowners consider it the most reliable and durable. In addition, this material is used to level slopes for other facing materials.
Moisture-resistant drywall. This material will perfectly level surfaces, but it will require additional plastering and coating - this could be decorative plaster, tiles or painting.
Plastic slopes. This option can be used not only when the walls of the house are lined vinyl siding, as many people think. It is also quite widely used when finishing facades with other materials.
Expanded polystyrene panels (preferably extruded) are quite suitable for forming slopes, and in addition, they have very high thermal insulation qualities. True, just like drywall, they will require additional finishing.
Clinker tiles. This option is usually used in cases where façade walls built of brick and decorated with jointing, or lined with clinker bricks or tiles.

Prices for plastic windows

plastic windows

Natural wooden lining is suitable when the walls are built of timber or logs, or lined with wood (natural block house). The lining will harmonize perfectly with these materials, especially if it is used in combination with platbands.

Sandwich panels are PVC plates, between which one of the rigid insulating materials is laid. Such panels can be used for both internal and exterior finishing slopes. They will harmonize quite well with almost any facade finishing walls
Vinyl lining, which is produced in different shades and can be used in combination with insulation material, will also look good with any finish external walls Houses.

Without finishing window slopes indoors beautiful interior can't achieve it!

The methods for finishing slopes outside and inside are largely similar, and in most cases differ only in the weather resistance of the materials used. So it makes sense to get acquainted with this type of work. About technology – in a separate article on our portal.

How to trim window slopes from the outside yourself

Finishing external window slopes with plastering

External slopes should be finished immediately after the polyurethane foam has hardened. Its protruding excess is cut off flush with the construction knife. window frame.

Cement or other mortar for external use is used both for the main finishing and as preparatory work to prepare the surface for fixing ceramic tiles, foam plastic or drywall, since installation of these materials requires a flat surface.

When using solutions as the main finishing, it is necessary to prepare for a rather complex job. The fact is that it can be quite difficult to bring a surface that is sometimes uneven in all directions to perfection.

The finishing process itself includes several stages, the sequence of which must be followed. Otherwise, the solution applied to the wall will very soon begin to crack and peel off.

Tools and materials

The first thing you need to start working with is to prepare everything you need, that is, tools and materials.

Tools you will need:

Trowel, a set of spatulas of various widths, including angled ones.
Container for mixing the solution.
Construction level, plumb line.
Soft wide brush.
Construction float.
An electric drill with an attachment for mixing mortars or a construction mixer.

Materials for finishing slopes will need to be purchased:

Cement and sand or ready-made plaster building mixture for exterior work.
Putty mixture for finishing- also for outdoor work. For the final outer layer a mixture can be used decorative plaster.
Primer composition.
Reinforcing fiberglass mesh.

Plaster mixtures

To plaster slopes, you can mix cement and sand in a certain proportion (for example, 1:3), and thereby try to save on material. However, for the finishing layer to serve as long as possible, also copes with the function of additional insulation, it is recommended to use special facade plaster, and it is better that it is “warm” .

Sandwich panels prices

sandwich panels

In addition, such plasters become a reliable waterproofing barrier, perform sound-absorbing functions. As a rule, such mixtures, in addition to the binder gypsum or cement, contain natural bulk insulation materials, such as perlite, vermiculite, foam glass, reinforcing additives (cellulose fibers or fiber), special plasticizer additives.

The preparation of working solutions containing gypsum must be carried out strictly according to the instructions placed by the manufacturer on the packaging. Due to the fact that gypsum sets quickly, it is not worth mixing a large volume of the mixture. If there is no solid experience in plastering work, then it would be better to choose a cement-based mixture.

Ready mixes will cost more, but working with them is much easier, since they have more high level adhesion compared to cement-sand mortar. This is a very well-balanced material with a uniform, finely dispersed consistency, therefore it has excellent adhesion to surfaces.

No need for finishing slopes large quantity material, since their area is very small. Therefore, you should not save and suffer with difficult-to-use concrete mortar. The optimal solution is to purchase an easy-to-use and multifunctional ready-made mixture for this purpose.

The process of plastering slopes - step by step

Perhaps the first stage of the preparatory work will be cleaning the surfaces from old, peeling plaster on the slopes, if necessary. It is best to completely clear the surface of it, otherwise it can give rise to cracking and shedding of new finishing layers. If the surface, cleared of old plaster or whitewash, turns out to be smooth, for example, made of concrete, then to increase its adhesive abilities, notches are applied to it. After which, the slopes must be cleaned of dust.

It is clear that if we are talking about new slopes, then there will be residues on them old decoration it can not be. But cleaning, removing possible drops of frozen masonry mortar, and removing dust will still be necessary.

Illustration
	The excess foam that appears after filling the gaps around the perimeter of the frame must be cut off, otherwise it will interfere with plastering the surface.
	The next step could be installing a low tide. This element of the external window frame is mounted under the window frame and secured with self-tapping screws to its lower part. This installation will help to avoid moisture flowing down the frame under the window sill; it will immediately fall on the inclined plane of the ebb. By installing the ebb in advance, you can also avoid unnecessary work on filling the gaps between it and the side slope. Moreover, after plastering the slopes, the fastening of the ebb will be more durable.
	After installing the ebb, both it and the entire plane of the window along with the frame should be closed plastic film so that solutions during priming and plastering do not get on their surface. It will be quite difficult to clean these materials from the frame and glass, and why bother giving yourself extra dirty work. The film can be secured to the frame using masking tape.
	The next stage of work will be priming all cleaned surfaces - this necessary process for any finishing of both internal and external slopes. The primer performs several functions that are necessary for high-quality plastering. This is the impregnation and binding of slope surface materials, which prevents shedding, imparting good adhesive properties to materials, that is plaster composition will have excellent adhesion to the wall. The third function of primers is antiseptic treatment surfaces, that is, it will protect the wall from the appearance of fungal or mold colonies. Various primer compositions can be used to treat surfaces, but it is better to choose solutions deep penetration with an antiseptic additive. The primer is applied to the slopes using a wide brush.
	The next step is to strengthen the outer edge of the window opening with a special perforated metal or plastic corner. It is better if the corner is equipped with a serpyanka mesh or a metal perforated section in the form of strips on both sides - this will make the corner much stronger. The corner, as a rule, is fixed using a quick-drying gypsum mixture, which is applied to the wall pointwise, approximately every 300÷350 mm. If you use a corner with a serpyanka (or metal mesh), then you can glue the mesh “wings” onto a thin layer of applied tile adhesive for external work.
	After the fastening solutions have dried, you can use a wide putty knife or a regular wooden strip and apply them to the outer corner of the opening and the joint window frame with the wall, determine the thickness that the plaster layer should have. Thus, the largest thickness of the plaster layer will be located at the junction of the window frame with the slope, and the smallest - along the outer edge of the window opening.
	If it is impossible to fasten a metal corner due to strong unevenness, then a flat wooden strip is fixed along the outer edge of the opening to the wall. This will become a kind of beacon, that is, it will determine the outer angle of repose. Therefore, the lath must be set strictly according to the building level.
	Next, when everything is ready for plastering the slopes, it is recommended to make a tool called a “malka”, which will help level the walls at the desired angle, creating the necessary layer of plaster on them in a certain place. The slab can be easily made from plywood or a flat board 150÷200 mm wide; its length should exceed the width of the slope by 50÷100 mm. A cutout is made on one of the end sides of the fry, so that when this “rule” is moved, no shifts occur and the required thickness plaster along the line of junction with the window.
	Another version of malka is shown in this illustration. Here the cutout is made in the opposite direction - to rest against the edge of the closed window sash. You can think on the spot which option would be more appropriate in your case. When plastering a slope, the cutout will rest on the frame or closed sash, and the second edge will rest on the outer corner of the slope, reinforced with a metal or plastic corner. The malka will need to be pressed against these guides and, moving upward, level the solution thrown onto the surface. It is clear that when making such a template it is necessary to make its end surfaces as smooth as possible. Craftsmen who professionally engage in this work have in their tool kits tools made of aluminum, lightweight and with perfectly smooth surfaces. It is much easier to work with such tools than with wooden claws.
	The plaster mixture is made strictly according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer, that is, in compliance with the proportions of dry construction mixture and water, as well as the holding time of the finished solution and the period of its use. Work must be carried out at an air temperature of at least five degrees, otherwise the solution will quickly lose its plasticity. You should not mix a large volume of plaster mixture at once, as it, just like from a low temperature, will lose its plasticity and proper adhesion. Due to the loss of these properties, the mixture will be difficult to work with. The quality of the layer applied to the surface will be low. When mixing the plaster mortar, the dry mixture is poured into the water prepared in the container (and not vice versa) and thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer.
	Next, the finished solution is applied in a layer of 10÷12 mm to the upper horizontal part of the slope. This is done using a spatula or trowel. Then the solution is leveled using a small trowel or a wide spatula. It should be noted that the leveling of this surface is very not an easy process, so you may have to apply the solution in several thin layers. Each layer must set well before applying the next.
	It is somewhat easier to plaster vertical slopes. The solution is poured onto the wall from its lower part, starting from low tide. Having thrown the mixture to a height of approximately 200÷300 mm, it must be immediately leveled with a small spoon. Then, in the same way, the solution is applied to the section of the slope located above and is also leveled. And so on to the very top.
	The joints of the horizontal and vertical planes of the slopes are formed with a mortar using an angle trowel. Traces from its edges are leveled with a regular spatula or grater (trowel).
	When the main leveling plaster layer has dried, the surface is smoothed with a putty composition for facade work. The solution is applied to the slopes thin layer in 2÷2.5 mm. Sometimes the top decorative layer is applied in two layers. The necessary alignment is carried out - the work requires accuracy, since it is desirable to ensure that no traces of the tool remain at all.
	Decorative plaster, which has a shallow relief that can hide the shortcomings made when applying the base leveling layer of plaster, can also be used as a final finish for slopes. If a smooth version of the slopes is chosen, then the applied putty is processed using a construction float, which will remove possible unevenness and then smooth the surface. Then, the slopes must be primed again, and after the primer has dried, they must be painted.
	In addition to decorative plaster or putty, the finishing of slopes can be artificial stone or its polymer imitation. Today on sale you can find corner elements made of artificial stone or plastic ones specially designed for slopes (polyurethane or expanded polystyrene), having a protective and decorative coating that imitates a stone surface.

Prices for facade plaster

facade plaster

Decorative plaster is an excellent tool for exterior and interior decoration.

Using this material, you can give both façade and interior design a special originality. Technological techniques for working with it are described in detail in a special article on our portal.

Finishing slopes with polystyrene foam

Recently, the technology of finishing slopes with polystyrene foam slabs 15÷20 mm thick has become quite often used. The advantage of this method is that the slope is immediately not only leveled, but also insulated with high quality. However, installation of this material is only possible if the slopes have a relatively flat surface, since polystyrene foam is a hard and fragile material, and when pressed against significant unevenness it can simply break.

Installation work in this case is quite simple and can be done independently.

To perform facing work you will need the following materials:

Polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam 15÷30 mm thick.
Cement-based tile adhesive for exterior use.
Metal perforated plaster corner.

The tools you need to prepare are:

Spatulas of different widths.
Knife for cutting foam.
An electric drill with a mixer attachment for mixing tile adhesive.
Building level.
Ruler, construction corner.

Work on lining slopes with foam plastic is carried out after insulating the walls of the house and takes place in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the stages of work
	If the slopes around the windows are very uneven, it is recommended to “ennoble” them in advance with a cement-based plaster mortar. In this case, the leveling layer should not be too thick, since polystyrene foam will be fixed on top of it. If the slopes are relatively smooth, then applying a leveling layer can be excluded from the list of operations.
	When the leveling layer has hardened, you can proceed to the installation of polystyrene foam fragments. The best option would be to first secure the polystyrene foam to the slopes, and then cover the junction of the panels and the wall with a platband made of the same material. However, in some cases, craftsmen prefer to join the cut out parts of the slopes with the platbands along the outer edge of the window opening, as shown in the illustration presented. Therefore, work can begin both with finishing the slopes and with securing the platbands.
	Expanded polystyrene sheets are marked, drawn and cut into strips of the required length and width using a knife. The edges of the facing strips must be perfectly smooth, so the cut must be made as carefully as possible so that the knife does not swerve to the side. An uneven edge will definitely stand out after installing the cladding parts on the wall and spoil the entire look of the finish.
	When installing cut parts, you should control the process using a building level, especially in cases where several fragments of material have to be combined into one line. The foam is glued using tile adhesive - it has excellent adhesion and will therefore create good adhesion of the material to the wall. Glue is usually applied only to the wall, but if it is not level enough, then it must also be applied to the foam. It is advisable to distribute the glue over the surface with a comb spatula - this way optimal uniformity is achieved. It is necessary to press the material to the surface carefully to avoid breakage.
	The seams between the individual foam panels are filled with the same tile adhesive. As a result, the platbands fixed around the perimeter of the window opening should look approximately as shown in the illustration.
	An adhesive solution is applied to the horizontal surface intended for installing the drip sill, which will level it and close the joint between the wall and the polystyrene foam panel. When the solution has set, the ebb is installed in place and secured to the window frame. After this, flush with the platbands, cut strips of polystyrene foam are fixed to the slopes using glue. The joints of the platbands and slopes should not have gaps between each other; they must be completely covered with mortar.
	After the glue under the foam has dried, the next step is finishing the upper horizontal part of the slopes. An adhesive mass is applied to the front surface of the cut-out part and its joint with the platband, onto which a metal corner with a sickle mesh is fixed. This element must be pressed tightly to the surface so that the solution comes out through the holes in the corner and mesh. Then, using a spatula, another layer of mortar is applied on top of the corner and mesh, which should completely cover the reinforcing element.
	If it is not planned to install a low tide, then the external window sill should be strengthened, also by securing a metal perforated corner with a sickle mesh along the outer edge of the window opening. A layer of adhesive solution is applied and leveled on top of the corner and serpyanka.
	Next, the solution is applied using a spatula to the vertical and horizontal panels of platbands and slopes. Then perforated corners are glued onto it, which will strengthen the protruding corners of the fragile polystyrene foam. The corners are light in weight, so they will stick well to the plastic glue solution.
	The next step is to apply a layer of glue on top of the corners, which should cover them completely.
	On top of the applied glue, between the corners installed on the outer and inner edges of the trim, a reinforcing mesh is glued, which will make the final finish durable and resistant to mechanical stress. The mesh is first lightly pressed into the fresh solution with your fingers, and then completely drowned in it with the efforts of a spatula. It should be completely immersed in the layer of glue, although it usually remains noticeable.
	Another thin layer of glue is applied on top of the serpyanka, but it completely hides it. After this, you need to give it time to dry.
	Slopes are finished in the same way, that is, glue is applied to the surface of polystyrene foam, then reinforcing mesh, and then another layer of glue. After the solution has dried, another layer is applied on top of it, which will completely hide the protruding edges of the corner and the visible relief of the mesh.
	The photo shows what a window with slopes and expanded polystyrene platbands will look like.
	To make the window look neat, the frames are first coated with a primer and then with paint for facade work, the color of which will be in harmony with the decoration of the walls of the house. Hydrophobic paints are best suited for painting plaster surfaces, as they will protect the finish from moisture and other adverse influences.

Finishing slopes with plasterboard or sandwich panels

These materials can be combined in a general section, since their installation is carried out according to one simple scheme. Therefore, if you understand the technique of using materials, then installing them will not be difficult.

Prices for moisture-resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

1 - Moisture-resistant drywall (or sandwich panel).

2 - Glue solution.

3 - Mineral wool.

4 - Starting L-profile made of plastic or metal.

5 - External corner or F-profile for finishing the external corner of the slopes.

It is necessary to immediately clarify that polyurethane foam can be used as a layer between the wall and the panel, which will serve as both glue and insulation.

When choosing for finishing slopes of one of the named materials To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

A sharp knife for cutting panels.
Ruler, square and marker for markings.
Building level.

A few words need to be said about the panels used for finishing, since they differ in the material they are made from. Therefore, for example, it requires additional finishing, and sandwich panels are ready for use immediately after their installation.

Features of finishing slopes with PVC sandwich panels

Sandwich panels consist of two plastic sheets(polyvinyl chloride), between which there is an insulating polystyrene foam filling.

The material has near positive qualities , thanks to which it is most often chosen for facing slopes:

— ease of installation;

— ease of maintenance;

— excellent thermal insulation qualities;

— resistance to external influences;

— durability;

- Quite a wide selection of material colors.

Work on finishing slopes with sandwich panels is carried out in stages.

The first step is to prepare the surface - dirt and dust are removed from it.
Next, the slopes must be treated with an antiseptic primer and wait until it dries.
The next step is to attach the starting profiles to the frame using self-tapping screws, into which the ends of the plasterboard panels or sandwich panels will be installed. The width of the L-profile is selected depending on the thickness selected facing material. The profile is mounted around the perimeter of the entire window frame. Self-tapping screws are screwed in in increments of 200÷250 mm.

A wooden leveling strip is fixed along the outer corner of the slope - this is a strip with a width of 100÷120 mm and a thickness of 10÷12 mm. It is necessary to secure external profile, which will close the gap formed between the slope wall and the sandwich panel.

In order to close end side panels, there is a special profile that consists of two parts. One of which is attached to wooden plank, and the second is put on the end of the panel. These elements of the finishing profile are connected by snapping a tongue-and-groove lock located along the entire length.
If you want to simplify the task when decorating an external corner, you can get by with a regular corner, which can be attached to “liquid nails” or to self-tapping screws screwed into the wall. However, in this case the screw heads will remain visible, which not everyone likes.

Then, according to the dimensions taken from the slopes, facing panels are prepared.
On the wall using " liquid nails» Mineral wool is fixed. It must be noted here that this material must be installed so that it has a varying thickness. So, closer to the window frame, thicker material will be required, and along the corner the thickness of the insulation should be minimal. Another insulation option is to fill the space between the panel and the slope wall with foam; it must be applied directly to the panel before installing it in place. But here you need experience, since it is even easier to make a mistake with the amount of foam, and the facing of the slope can “inflate”. And excess polyurethane foam that gets on the front can leave marks that will be difficult to completely remove.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Next, a profile called “liquid nails” is fixed to the upper end side of the side panels. internal corner» - it is necessary for joining the vertical and horizontal top panels at the corners of the slopes.
After the side cladding parts are installed, foam is applied to the upper horizontal panel, and then it is inserted into the grooves of the “internal corner” profiles and pressed against the slope wall. Temporarily, until the foam expands and dries, the panel should be fixed to the wall masking tape or even prop it up with wooden slats.
The finish for the top panel can be F-profile or regular decorative corner, which are fixed to the installation site using “liquid nails” glue.
The protective film is removed from the panels before installing them in place of the cladding.

Specifics of using plasterboard for facing slopes

Probably everyone who has ever renovated an apartment or house knows about this material. GKL sheets consist of the same way as sandwich panels, of three layers - two outer cardboard layers and an inner gypsum layer.

Drywall gained its popularity due to several features. This:

— affordable cost;

— ease of processing and installation;

— the ability to produce curved structures;

— moisture resistance of gypsum board sheets;

- durability of the material with proper processing and subsequent finishing.

Installing plasterboard slopes is perhaps even easier than sandwich panels, since there are several options for fixing it:

Installation of plasterboard parts on fixed on the slope wooden sheathing. But this option is possible if the slope has big enough width.

Fixing the cut panels on a special corner, which is screwed along the outer line of the frame.
If the wall is relatively flat and the gap between the wall and the window frame is small, then the plasterboard panel can be fixed directly to the wall.

When installing drywall, screws are screwed directly through it. There is no need to mask them, since this material one way or another requires additional finishing, which will hide the fasteners and joints between parts.

If you plan to create an insulating layer, then mineral wool is fixed in the same way as in the case of sandwich panels, and polyurethane foam can be launched into the gap between the wall and the drywall through holes drilled in the panels after the slopes are installed in place.

Unlike sandwich panels, drywall installed on external slopes requires strengthening, so it is recommended to reinforce its surface with fiberglass mesh, according to the same principle as in the case of insulating slopes with foam plastic.

The corners of the slopes must be strengthened with metal corners, which are fixed to fine cement mortar (you can use tile adhesive for exterior work).

Then, the plaster solution chosen for the job must be applied to the entire surface of the drywall, onto which the reinforcing mesh is glued. The rest of the work is carried out according to the same principle as when finishing slopes with foam plastic. It is quite obvious that the advantage of drywall is that when using it you can significantly reduce the time for leveling the surface.

Find out how to make internal s step by step instructions, from our new article on our portal.

There are other ways to finish external slopes. Thus, plastic or metal panels with a set of profiles specially designed for their installation are becoming increasingly popular. Such slopes are installed according to the same principle as sandwich panels, and the empty space between the wall and the cladding is also insulated mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam.

Thanks to modern materials and various auxiliary elements available to home craftsmen, it is possible to choose the most suitable option - in terms of the degree of installation complexity, in terms of operational and decorative qualities, and simply in terms of affordability.

As an example, take a look at another interesting technology - ready-made profile “thermal slopes” made of polystyrene foam.

Video: A quick and convenient way to insulate and finish external window slopes

When repairing or replacing a window, questions regarding the finishing of slopes always arise quite acutely. And the main one is what material to choose.
There can be many options, from simple plastering and painting to finishing with plasterboard or sandwich panels. No less popular is covering windows with tiles - tiled, ceramic or imitating natural stone.
This will be discussed further.

The choice of one or another tile and the method of its installation depends on factors such as the purpose of the room, requirements for its sanitary condition, overall design, personal preferences of the owner.
For example, an artificial stone with a chipped surface is unlikely to be appropriate in the kitchen, since it will be difficult to wash off grease and soot. But in a living room decorated in the appropriate style, or on a loggia, it will look great.
But a smooth tiled or ceramic tile for covering windows, it is excellent for kitchens and bathrooms; it can also be used in residential and public spaces for finishing slopes, if it fits into the overall concept of the interior. The advantages of this material are obvious.
This:

Excellent appearance, variety of colors and textures of decorative surfaces;
Resistance to mechanical damage;
High hygienic properties, ease of care;
Strength, reliability and durability of the coating;
Additional fixation of the window frame in the opening.

Unfortunately, the advantages of tiles do not include low price and ease of installation - this will require some experience, patience and accuracy. But the result compensates you for all costs and labor.

Methods for tiling window openings

Depending on the type of tile chosen, it can be used to cover only the slopes or the slopes and the perimeter of the opening. Often the entire wall with a window is tiled.
Let's start with the simplest option.

Covering the opening with brick or stone tiles

The basis of the raw materials for the production of such tiles is gypsum or cement mixed with various fillers and dyes. It can imitate brick or sawn stone with smooth edges and standard dimensions, or it can be deliberately rough, with torn edges and a “chipped” surface.
Finishing slopes with textured tiles is quite easy to do with your own hands, since it is not necessary to level the surface for this. And special corner elements eliminate the need to join tiles at external corners.

Advice. Choose decorative tiles that are painted throughout their entire thickness, and not just on the front surface. In the event of a chip, scratch or other damage, these defects will be almost invisible.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Make notches along the entire surface to be coated to ensure good adhesion to the glue;
Prime the window slopes;
Apply to the surface the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer for the selected material. This can be either cement-based tile adhesive, liquid nails or sealant;
Glue the tiles in horizontal rows, starting at the corners and fitting them tightly together without leaving seams;
If the tiles need to be cut to length, use a regular hacksaw (for gypsum products) or circular saw(for cement);
Any glue that gets on the front surface should be removed immediately with a rag.

With this type of finishing, as a rule, you only have to cut the tiles adjacent to the window frame. And on the plane adjacent to the slope of the wall, it is laid out in a free order, forming an uneven edge.

Cladding slopes with ceramic tiles

If you plan to only tile the window openings and decorate the walls with another material, then you will have to decide how to decorate the joints in the corners. But first, the slopes must be carefully leveled, ensuring that the sides are vertical and the top plane is horizontal (and the bottom, if tiles will also be laid on the window sill).
Alignment can be done as plaster mixture, so sheet materials– plasterboard, chipboard, DSP, OSB, etc.

Advice. If you are attracted only by the appearance of tiled slopes, you can simplify your task by using for leveling and simultaneous decoration window openings moisture-resistant wood fiber boards lined decorative film under the tiles.

When starting finishing, consider the following recommendations:

After leveling the slopes, it is necessary to lay out the tiles without glue to determine it best location. Narrow elements at the junctions of adjacent surfaces should be avoided - it looks unsightly.
For example, if the height of the side plane is not a multiple of the size of the tile, then you will have to start facing not with a whole tile, but with a tile cut to the height so that the top piece has the same size.
If the width of the slopes is greater than the width of the tile, then the whole one is laid along the outer edge, and the space between it and the window frame is filled with pieces cut to size.
The tiling of the window sill is carried out last, when the top and side slopes are already covered.
Some difficulties may arise when tiling the upper surface - the tile may not be held in place by the glue under its own weight. To prevent this from happening, use wooden struts that should support the tiles until the glue sets.
Grout the joints after the glue has completely dried - the next day.

As for decorating the junction of the tiles with the wall, this can be done in two ways - using overhead corners or special layouts.
In the first case, corners made of plastic, aluminum or MDF are cut to size and filed along the front side at 45 degrees. Then they are glued with acrylic sealant.

Aluminum or plastic layouts, which can be the most different colors, are selected taking into account the thickness of the tile. They are placed on glue along the entire perimeter of the opening even before laying the tiles, as shown in the figure.

The entire process of finishing slopes with tiles is clearly shown in the video posted in the article. If you want to do this job yourself, be sure to check it out.

Tiling a wall with a window

The most difficult thing to do is tiling a window opening if the entire wall with the window is also finished with tiles. Here it is very important to choose a layout scheme such that the width of the tiles on both sides of the window is the same, and you do not have to glue very narrow strips on top and bottom.
In this article we will not describe in detail how to properly glue a wall so that all horizontal and vertical seams match perfectly - instructions for performing this work are given in the corresponding material on the site.
Let's move on to window decoration:

When the entire wall to the window sill is tiled, continue laying on the sides of the window, using only whole tiles, until the horizontal row rises above the top edge of the opening.
Take a flat piece of wood and secure it above the opening so that its top edge coincides with the line connecting the bottom edges of the entire tiles located above the level of the opening.

After laying the whole tile around the window, you can begin tiling the areas around the slopes with cut pieces. You need to start from the bottom, pasting the wall under the window sill. Here the outer tiles will have to be cut at an angle, so a tile cutter will not help you - use a grinder.
Then the sides are lined. While you do this, the adhesive under the top row of tiles will set and the support strip can be carefully removed and sealed over the area above the window.
Next is the direct tiling of window sills, side and upper slopes according to the scheme indicated in the previous chapter.

It should be noted that in addition to the two methods of decorating corners already described above, in the case of tiled walls, a third option is also possible. This is a joining of perpendicularly located tiles at an angle of 45 degrees.
It is important to say that this method is only available to experienced professionals, since only a specialist who has performed this procedure more than once can accurately remove the chamfer without damaging the facial decorative enamel.

Conclusion

There is no doubt that window tiles are a very practical and beautiful material, allowing you to refine the interior and simplify window care. But not everyone will undertake to work with it, guaranteeing an ideal result.
If you like this particular finishing option, but you are not confident in your abilities, do not take risks - use the services of an experienced craftsman.

Sometimes during a renovation it becomes necessary to replace windows or doors, but after they are installed a problem arises in the form of unsightly slopes. To complete the appearance of the apartment, it is necessary to line the slopes. There are several types of cladding, and the choice of a specific one depends on the available possibilities, and often on the interior of the house or apartment. The cladding can be made of plastic, plasterboard, tiles, as well as artificial or natural stone.

Cladding slopes with plastic

Lining slopes with plastic is one of the most common methods today. As a facing material, you can choose either PVC sandwich panels or wall panels made of plastic with voids inside.

Properly lined slopes will last a very long time, and they will not be “afraid” of temperature changes, they will also store heat well and insulate external noise well. Of course, a lot will depend on the quality of the material, so you need to choose plastic only from reputable manufacturers.

Before performing cladding work, it is necessary to prepare the slope: remove old plaster, insulate with glass wool or polyurethane foam. Only after this should we begin cladding.

There are a number of advantages from using plastic materials:

– Lining window slopes with plastic can be done on the day the window frames are installed.

– Plastic materials They are flexible enough to withstand temperature changes, unlike plaster, which develops small cracks over time. All this is due to the fact that plaster does not have such properties.

– Plastic slopes do not require constant maintenance, and they do not fade over time.

– This material tolerates moisture well.

– Slopes made of plastic have a beautiful and finished appearance.

Tiling slopes

Tiling slopes will be relevant for the bathroom. Facing door slopes in the bathroom requires special materials, but if you choose them correctly, they will last a very long time and give the bathroom a finished look.

When performing these works, facade tiles are usually used. It is a fairly durable material and is quite easy to care for. With its help, you can carry out work on lining external and internal slopes, and in addition to this, you can lay a beautiful and reliable window sill.

Before working with tiles, it is necessary to prepare the slopes themselves: glue and reinforcing fiberglass mesh are applied to the working surface, after which the surface is primed. At this point, the preparatory work is completed, and using a special glue you can glue the tile itself. This glue can withstand big differences temperature, and the tile itself can last more than a quarter of a century.

The tiles can also be attached to drywall, which can act as the primary material for cladding. In this case, a special solution of cement and mastic is used to glue the tiles.

If there is an urgent need to get a perfectly flat or complex surface, then you can’t think of anything better than drywall. To obtain the same smooth surface using plaster, you need to have a lot of experience, and you also need to spend a lot of time and effort. But very few people have all this, so drywall is gradually replacing plaster. For facing slopes, it is necessary to choose moisture-resistant plasterboard, this is due to the fact that the slopes are constantly exposed to moisture. Also, its thickness should be 12.5 mm.

Cladding slopes with plasterboard

Cladding slopes with plasterboard can be done in the following ways:

- With help metal profile. This method It is relevant to use if, in addition to plasterboard slopes, the walls are finished.

– Using polyurethane foam. This method is used if it is impossible to use a metal profile. Alignment is done using self-tapping screws, and the screws are screwed in before the mounting foam hardens.

– Using glue or putty. Before gluing the parts, it is necessary to remove excess mounting foam remaining after installing the window (door), after which the glued surface is treated with a primer. If there are large cracks or chips in the wall, it is necessary to level it with plaster. After which the slope is installed.

After installing the plasterboard slope, it can be painted. For this you can use acrylic and oil paint, you can also cover the slopes with wallpaper, and as mentioned above, you can use ceramic tiles as decoration.

There are a number of myths that scare away ordinary people. One of the most common is the myth about the fungus. Fungus cannot grow under drywall if the installation technology was performed correctly, especially if it was attached with glue or polyurethane foam. Also, many doubt the reliability of drywall, but it is no worse than other materials used. The instability of drywall to moisture is also a myth, and after painting, the duration of its use increases significantly.

Facing slopes with stone

Facing slopes with stone is a rather original and rarely seen type of finishing, so its use will add zest to the interior of a house or apartment. One more good reason The use of stones is their durability and reliability. The cladding material used is natural and artificial stone. Natural stone is now used much less frequently, since it is much more expensive than its artificial counterpart. The most popular is the cladding of door slopes in hallways, corridors, and foyers.

Each type of stone has its own advantages. Artificial stone is resistant to various influences external environment and does not require additional processing. It is also environmentally friendly pure material, and is not able to accumulate various microorganisms on its surface.

Slopes made of artificial stone for a long time will serve faithfully, without changing their appearance. You can also make slopes from solid artificial stone.

Door slopes will look beautiful only if the slopes were installed after the door was installed. Stone cladding is performed as follows:

– The opening is marked depending on the size of the selected tile.

– Stone trimming can be done different ways. You can cut the stone the same throughout its entire height, or you can combine “short and long”, with this type of cladding it is necessary to select a stone that is painted throughout its entire thickness so that the cut and the front side look the same.

– Laying stone tiles must begin from the bottom corner and move upward. The stone is attached to cement mortar or glue specially designed for this purpose.

– The seams must be sealed the next day after the solution has dried.

– After completing all the procedures, the stone tiles are coated with varnish, which protects them from external factors.

Also used as a facing material natural stones. Granite and marble, made in the form of tiles, are most often used during cladding. various thicknesses. Shales, sandstones, quartzites and dolomites are also often used. Artificial stone is made from a mixture of sand and cement with the addition of various pigments, as well as plasticizers, which give the stone the desired shape.

Carrying out work on facing slopes from any material requires certain preparation, and if you want to do it yourself, then you need to be well prepared for this in order to avoid various standard mistakes. You need to read specialized literature, visit various forums, watch training videos, and also ask for advice from experienced specialists. But if you do everything correctly, the work done will delight you for a very long time and amaze your guests. But if you don’t have self-confidence, it’s better to hire specially trained people.