How to install a stove in your home yourself. How to make a stove for a cottage out of brick with your own hands: masonry rules and step-by-step instructions

Despite a large assortment gas boilers, and modern metal models, brick stoves have not lost their relevance and are becoming increasingly popular.

Advantages of a brick stove in the house

First, you need to figure out and sum up why a brick oven is incredibly popular and whether it is worth connecting it to common system heating. In fact, there are many reasons that contributed to this:

Brick ovens long time keep the room warm

fast heating;
long-term maintenance of heat in the room;
operational safety;
minimum evaporation, maintaining humidity levels.

The furnace body heats up perfectly and ensures long-term maintenance temperature regime. There is no need to periodically re-heat the oven. And this is the main advantage when making comparative characteristics in relation to furnace devices made of cast iron or steel. In practice, this is indeed the case, because in metal stoves you have to add firewood after a maximum of 6 hours, but the brick retains heat and releases it within 24 hours.

The unique ability to retain heat for a long time ensures efficiency and improves the environment, since less carbon monoxide evaporates into the atmosphere.

The optimal fuel combustion mode ensures the decomposition of carbon dioxide and water into individual molecules. As a result, heat is generated, which the stove absorbs, then accumulates and gradually releases, thereby providing heating to the room.

The oven does not heat up from the outside, so it is somewhat safe to use. As a result, the resulting radiation becomes soft, which is not produced by metal units during heating.

A brick oven emits slight evaporation when heated, and when the temperature drops, it absorbs moisture again. This property is usually called breathing. At the same time, the humidity in the room remains within acceptable limits, its indicator is from 40 to 60%.

About the disadvantages and comparative characteristics

The disadvantages of operation include the fact that for a long time you have to wait for the stove to light up and heat the room. Therefore, experienced stove makers advise additionally purchasing a steel manifold to heat the air at a forced pace.

When heated steel furnaces At the same time, the dust that settles on the metal surface, as a result, substances harmful to health are formed, which does not occur when using the brick version.

You can do the firebox yourself, which will save you money Money, and bricklaying will only bring pleasure.

Types of structures

There are three types of brick-type stoves for heating, which you need to know about when choosing a design:

Duct Dutch oven.

This design has a cast iron stove with which you can cook food. The stoves are generally small in size and have proven themselves to be excellent in country houses. Of course, the stove also has the functions of heating a house. The oven can be easily installed on its own.

This unique stove can heat large areas. In its design, the masonry provides:

bed;
baking cabinet;
tank for heating water;
a special niche for drying fruit.

Therefore, the oven is popular.

Duct Dutch oven. This interesting name The design was obtained due to the channel sequence. It is easy to manufacture, and during the laying process it is possible to connect any structural element. However, the maximum heat transfer is no more than 40%, and heating the house is unlikely to be effective.

Everyone decides for themselves what type of furnace needs to be built, depending on operating conditions and capabilities.

What kind of brick should the stove be made of?

Before laying the stove, it is important to decide on the choice of brick. It is necessary to take into account the resistance of the material to high temperatures and its integrity during heating and cooling. The characteristics of the brick are an important criterion when choosing material for building a stove.

Important characteristics of brick:

brand;
frost resistance.

Brand. When choosing, you should know about the grade of material, which indicates the density of the structure. The optimal choice would be brick grades from M75 to M250. The higher the density indicator, the longer the oven heats up, but the masonry will also cool more slowly, thereby giving off heat longer.

When building a stove inside a bathhouse, it is best to select a brick with a low index, but grade 100 or higher, otherwise melting will take a long time. To heat country houses or cook food, dense brick fits better. But it should be remembered that density does not confirm the quality of the material. Therefore, it is recommended to find out about the composition of the brick.

Frost resistance. This property is especially important for a chimney located under the roof. The frost resistance criterion means the ability to accumulate moisture; after water crystallizes, the material deforms and the masonry gradually collapses. For hollow masonry bricks this figure is quite high.

These indicators are important, so you should familiarize yourself with them before making a purchasing decision.

You should buy clay materials for stove masonry Brown. They successfully withstand sudden temperature changes, and if the stove has not been used for a long time, the masonry will not crack.

You should not choose silicate, cast or pressed bricks - their structure will not withstand the load.

Fireclay brick is most suitable for laying a furnace, as it can withstand temperatures up to 1350 0 C. It can also be used to build the entire structure, or you can use it to lay only the inner mile.

Use of SHA 8 brick yellow color with specks or SHA from 22 to 45 is an excellent solution for laying a stove, but not for rooms with high humidity levels, since its operation is only possible at 60% humidity.

In rooms such as a bathhouse, it is best to use the following types of bricks:

ceramic;
refractory;
clinker.

Taking into account all of the above, you can achieve an impeccable result.

Step-by-step instruction

It is not difficult to assemble a heating stove with your own hands; just read the instructions.

Initially, it is recommended to lay out rows without using mortar to ensure alignment, and then transfer to mortar. To ensure the accuracy of the work, you can make formwork, so there will be less chance of making a mistake, and the masonry will look slimmer.

Further sequence of actions:

After the third row has been laid, the blower door should be placed in the oven.
To keep everything level, a level is used, and an asbestos cord is used to close the gap.
Then they begin laying out the main part intended for heating. For this purpose, fireclay or stove bricks are used.
Before laying a brick stove, the ceramic material is cleaned of dust and dirt and moistened with clean water.
Fireclay bricks should not be wetted.
Laying out the mortar can be done manually, since it is difficult to achieve a mortar thickness of 3 mm using a trowel.
The furnace laying must be verified. Tapping and separate editing are not allowed.
If you can’t do this the first time, you can repeat everything, having first cleared the brick from the mortar.
After completing several rows of masonry, a grate is installed in the grooves of the fireclay bricks to separate the ash chamber.
The working combustion door is installed in the furnace in the same way as the blower.
The body of the furnace is laid out with brickwork.
If the cast iron slab should be below the level of the bricks, then the last row of masonry should be moved outward.

Before carrying out work, you should consult a specialist.

Rules and nuances of operation

In order for the operation of the furnace to be truly economically profitable, it is necessary to maintain it in impeccable condition.

A small crack in the masonry, up to 2 mm, will contribute to heat loss heating system. Approximately 10% of the heat will be lost due to the entry of air masses.

The firewood used should not be wet. It is recommended to dry them first in a natural way, and produce the workpiece long before flooding the furnace. Damp firewood will play a negative role, since it will cause condensation to accumulate on the brick walls, the action of which will contribute to the destruction of the material.

The firewood does not need to be stacked tightly together; there should be a gap of at least 10 mm between them, and 2 cm should remain free from the top of the stove. Ideal option the firebox will be filled to 2/3 of the total volume of the chamber.

If the vent is open during heating, up to 20% of the heat will enter the pipe and the heating will not work effectively.
When the combustion door is open, about half of the heat will be lost.
For uniform heating, it is recommended to select logs of the same size, approximately 10 cm thick.
To make the fire burn better, it is recommended to use wood chips or a splinter, and the use of flammable liquids for these purposes is prohibited.
The view should be closed, then the heat will not go directly into the chimney, and the heating will be at the same level.

To ensure traction, you should focus on the color of the fire. If the color is yellow, then the combustion mode is optimal; if it is white, then there is a lot of air in the flame and most of the heat goes into the chimney. If the fire is red, then this is due to a lack of oxygen.

A technically competent solution for the operation and care of the stove will ensure long-term and reliable operation.

How can you paint a stove?

There is nothing wrong if the oven does not turn out beautiful on the outside. The surface can be painted. Previously, stoves were plastered or covered with two layers of lime. Today it is possible to cover the base with modern paints:

heat-resistant enamel of the KO brand on an organosilicon base;
acrylic or silicate coloring compounds;
special heat-resistant varnish, it can be used with pigment.

Preference is still given to KO enamel (85, 174, 813). Moreover, it is intended for painting the brick itself and metal elements ovens. Withstands temperatures up to 600 0 C. Acrylic and silicate paint bases are much cheaper, but their service life is much shorter.

A good solution would be to use transparent varnish mixed with gouache of the selected color.

Application is carried out in two layers, sequentially. In this case, the first one must be dry before applying the second one. Use regular brushes and a roller. Before painting, it is necessary to treat with a primer specially purchased for this purpose.

In all cases, before carrying out work, you should weigh everything in order to make the right decision.

Furnace laying experts advise adhering to the following rules:

To install a cast iron stove on a stove, it is not recommended to use a solution; it is enough to ensure a tight seal with an asbestos cord.
After finishing the work on laying the stove, you can begin building a chimney for the heating system.
The combustion unit is cleaned in the summer, and in the cold season it is recommended to clean the chimney a couple of times.
In the presence of soot, the smoke outlet becomes clogged and, as a result, the efficiency of the stove will not be as high.

Regulation of the furnace operation is provided by a valve, door or view. These elements are subject to constant monitoring and, if necessary, they are replaced.

Before deciding to install a heating stove yourself, it is recommended that you read the technical literature.

Comfort country house, built far from gas supply networks, is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, relieving the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of designs of metal “stove stoves”. Despite this, many summer residents prefer the classic version - a heating stove made of brick. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and releases it for a long time, warming the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimum costs The materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for a summer residence.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove maker. In it we will look at several options for simple wood stoves and give practical recommendations for laying them.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout diagrams, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to build the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from your future stove. If you only need to heat rooms and use bottled gas or electricity, then choose an option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a bed.

For regular thermal processing of large quantities of food and pet food, a simple oven with hob it will be just right.

We will look at three examples of ovens with step by step guide according to their masonry:

Simple direct flow;
With hob;
Heating.

Let’s say right away that you cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design devoid of gas circulation. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct-flow heating design is designed to heat a small room

Such a stove does not require a strong foundation. Having poured large crushed stone in a layer of 15-20 cm, poured it cement mortar and having leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can begin laying.

Stove dimensions in plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the combustion door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the brick laying method.

The procedures for this design are simple. The main condition during work is to ensure that the seams are bandaged so that the top brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a cross-section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After this, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four “three-quarters”. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the oven is raised another five rows (one tier on an edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the very simple version This design has small dimensions (width 2 and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

Work goes smoothly when you have everything you need at hand.

Therefore, purchase the following materials and accessories in advance:

Solid red brick – 107 pcs;
Blower door – 1 piece;
Grate – 1 piece;
Single-burner cast iron stove – 1 piece;
Fire door – 1 piece;
Pipe valve – 1 pc.

Fire bricks are not needed for a wood burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, discarding cracked and uneven ones.

Preparation of the solution

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts clay with one part water and adding eight parts sifted sand. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no drips on it. When laying, it should not leak out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the amount of brick. At optimal thickness seam (3-5 mm) one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can begin laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm larger than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of a stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole for the foundation. It is enough to make formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing felt are placed on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, it is given a week to gain strength, after which they begin laying.

The dimensions of the stove with hob we are considering are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Expert advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can begin laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving space for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw it to it. soft wire and place its ends in the seams for better fixation.

The frame of the cast iron door has four holes for wire, which is used for fixing in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with wet asbestos cord.

The third row is laid by overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Order scheme from 1st to 8th row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the ligation of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only smoke circuit (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, which is periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two stands are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving space for the firebox door. At the back of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth to remove any clay protruding from the seams. This important condition to ensure good traction.

Helpful advice! When focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out the bricks.

Order scheme from 9th to 11th row

Having raised the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, placing wire in the seams to secure its frame. At the same level, in the back of the fuel chamber, a brick with a beveled end is placed - a smoke tooth. It improves thermal efficiency by preventing rapid exhaustion flue gases into the pipe.

Having completed the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along it on a clay mortar. It is necessary for sealing the joints of a cast iron slab and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord soaked in clay.

Rows 12 and 13 - formation of the pipe walls. After their completion, a light pipe made of sheet metal, displayed on the roof.

Heating stove

Now let’s see how to build a brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered heating stove option for a country house

Its dimensions:

width – 2 bricks (51 cm);
depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
height – 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction you will need the following materials and accessories:

Red solid brick – 390 pcs;
Clay - 9 buckets;
Sand - 18 buckets;
Grate (25x40 cm) – 1 piece;
Fire door (20x30 cm) – 1 piece;
Blower door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
Cleaning door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
Gate valve - 1 piece;
Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) – 1 piece;
Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) – 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontality using a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. To ensure that they are even, we recommend immediately installing four template posts on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily create ideal angles.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, two bricks with a beveled edge facing into the ash chamber are laid at the end of the furnace. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Order diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

Rows 4 and 5 continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and install a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is installed. At the back of the chamber, beveled bricks are placed to improve traction. The ninth row covers the firebox door.

From rows 10 to 16, the fuel chamber and vertical smoke exhaust duct are being laid. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is installed in the oven.

Rows 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet cloth.

Rows 31-32 form a vault covering the oven.

33 and 34 form the chimney.

Having finished laying, the stove is left for a week with the doors and pipe open to dry. After this, a test fire is made, burning small portions wood chips, branches or straw.

The oven is rude and the source of a fair amount of confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not an established term. In Western and, partly, in South Slavic languages, rude is either simply a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to acc. When searching on the Russian Internet, Dutch, Swedish, bathhouse (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. appear. You can even find statements that say that there was once an outstanding stove designer, Grub.

In fact, a stove with a rough, or simply rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove according to the heat cycle, but combined technologically, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there cannot be a bell housing - heating shields for stoves are always ducted. A do-it-yourself rough oven is easier to build than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rough houses are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not impact the budget.

Note: a heating and cooking unit made of brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob – 1200-1350, – 1800-2000, – 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

A do-it-yourself stove can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then in appearance it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. The slab grinder is compact, least material-intensive, lightest, and requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. That's why they put rough slabs for the most part in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if it load bearing capacity not less than 500 kgf/sq. m.

A rough structure with an attached shield (item 2) is structurally more complex and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. A wood-burning grub with an attached shield can develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The diagram of the flow of flue gases in the hood with a shield is given in pos. 3; This is how the popular Galanka stove was built. However, you need to know that there is no point in building a furnace with more than 3 revolutions: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction it will be necessary to pay special attention to some of the features of rough stoves, which are discussed in this article. Substantial part article material.

Note: wood burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is not advisable to heat such a stove with coal; the stove will overheat.

Why is it rude - rude

Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later added shield due to the integrity of the structure (item 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complex and requires quite deep knowledge of heating engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires a solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grub because its combustion (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately and then “molded” together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the fire part and the shield is not taken into account, and it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, If you live in an area with a harsh climate, a rude stove may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences from a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox. The tooth traps hot gases under the hob, which in a summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In the rough it is not needed, because excess heat will be used for heating.

A rough stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with increased draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool. Their thermal energy will turn into a mechanical one, which will successfully fly out into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield operates on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose of the rough heating panels, they are made different types. Diagrams of heating panels for furnaces are shown in Fig. below; The fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most commonly used scheme;
Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The dimensions and weight of the oven are the same as before. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to install a bed, i.e. the upper channel does not heat up much;
Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as that of a shield with horizontal channels, the technological complexity is the same as that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and good foundation(see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimal for adding to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: There are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chessboard. The most complex, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. Only possible variant for rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rough - compactness and the ability to build in existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:

Furnace foundation.
Masonry mortars.
Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. The crushed stone cushion without sand bedding is leveled to the horizon before pouring. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: the brick bed on the foundation under the furnace is laid out with bandaging in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry for the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. Sand on clay mortar It is highly advisable to take mountain or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.

Masonry

For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker fit highest quality– light red color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:

If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
The recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by pressing without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

Accessories

Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; this is not at all stove rules. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.

It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press not too tightly at first, place it at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inside of the masonry). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grates and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple rough wood for a seasonal dacha or temporarily inhabited house. A special feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without in rough wood, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and, if it is already warm enough outside, it prevents the stove from overheating the room while cooking.

On the trail. rice. – the arrangement of a single-burner coarse stove is also compact and light, but more complicated, with combined system channels. This is an option more suitable for a hunting lodge or a summer cottage where weekends are spent in winter.

Next in Fig. – arrangement of the house heating and cooking system with switching to winter and summer operation (two-way). This stove is quite complex, but quite economical both in winter and summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. – order and drawings of a heating stove (firebox door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rug is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment, the front faces the living room and the rear opens into 2 rooms adjacent to it; the partition between them is at back side(back) of the stove. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in Fig. Below is a rough diagram and order of the stove bench: a cooking area in the kitchen/hallway with a bathroom; bed - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove maker. For heating in warm weather, the bed is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept wide open, because... switching to summer speed is not provided.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional panel with staggered channels is located (in the inset below on the right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if the firebox door is made of glass. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings is a summer valve.

About chimneys

The chimney for rough must meet all the rules fire safety. Here you just need to note that the best chimney for coarse wood is a sandwich one, because... it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If this is your first oven (which is quite possible), do not rush to build, model it on the table first. Suddenly you have a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling stoves with layout diagrams and plastic bricks to scale, they sell these. No – bricks can also be cut to scale from foam plastic. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

Despite the large number modern methods heating, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a favorable atmosphere.

However, the stove will serve for a long time and efficiently, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:

Where is the best place to place the stove?
What materials and tools are needed for the work?
What should be the solution for the oven?
How to properly lay a stove?

Where is the right place to place the stove?

When thinking about how to fold a stove with your own hands, you need to place it correctly. To do this, the following conditions are taken into account:

The walls of the smoke channel must be located from wooden structures at a distance of at least 40 cm
The chimney is allowed to be installed at the same level as the ridge projection if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
If the distance from the ridge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge protrusion, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the line that connects the upper section of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees

Read also the guide on how to do it yourself

The foundation of the house and the stove have their own specific characteristics, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.

Materials and tools

Regardless of the type of stove chosen, the work involved in their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences from each other. On the technical side, they will differ in versatility, degree of impact and size.

Source building materials for the construction brick kilns serve:

wire
lime with sand
brick

When purchasing the latter, you need to ensure that it is in the correct shape and has a sufficient level of firing.

To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. It will also be required auxiliary equipment, which can be purchased at the markets:

Required doors and dampers
Views and sliders
Grate grates
Cookers with burners, etc.

In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, usually a stove-maker's hammer, level, etc.).

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. The sand must be sifted through a sieve so that its cell sizes do not exceed 1.5 mm. At this time, the clay should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It would be a good idea to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove maker chooses the proportions for himself.

Having mixed sand and clay, you need to add water and begin to mix the resulting mixture until a thickness similar to rich sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be placed on the brick in a clot and spread in a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).

Arranging a brick oven

When everything necessary has been collected, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, they begin to solve the main question of how to build a stove with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge number of order options and only one will be considered further - Swedish. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to keep the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.

All information about the furnace must be shown in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.

As an option for heating the room, you can use an electric boiler...

The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even minor to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.

The blower in the niche is usually located on the right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the camera internal sides combed into a cone. Very often you will have to use not a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disk, but do not beat them with a hammer.

After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, dressing is done with a displacement of 30-50% for greater stability of the structure.

The height of the third row should coincide with the top edge of the door. In this case, you must remember to trim the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for easier removal of ash.

Row four is laid on the left. First, install the cleaning door. A U-shaped channel is made. It is necessary to place a square hole above the ash pan, while blocking the blower door.

The fifth row has practically no differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.

It is necessary to prepare the refractory brick before starting to lay the sixth row (it will be in the place of the hatching). If this is not possible, a regular one will do. In this case, it is necessary to support the grate on the fifth row. Between it and the bricks a compensating small gap of up to 15 mm is required, which is filled with sand or sand.

In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A firebox door is placed on the sixth row.

The eighth and ninth rows are placed similarly to the seventh. They should reach the top of the fire door.

In order for the flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the firebox, it is necessary to scrape off the bricks that block the left channel and the firebox partition.

When laying out the tenth row, you need to ensure that it is strictly vertical. A cooking floor will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise cooking will be extremely inconvenient. The fire door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.

The question of how to build a brick oven with your own hands is half resolved. The cooking floor covers the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks that will be in contact with it must be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm. A small door for the combustion chamber is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.

The twelfth and thirteenth rows are laid almost identically. The main difference is that at first both square channels are combined into a single one, and in the next row they are separated again.

The fourteenth row is installed in a similar way to the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, you can use the cooker without letting the stove heat up.

In the fifteenth row the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth row the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove odors and ventilate the cooking section, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.

In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the cooking chamber, which will allow the chamber to be blocked. In a conventional heating furnace, a dome-shaped ceiling would have to be constructed.

The next two rows cover the cooking area, but both square channels remain untouched.

Two bricks are placed on the surface of the cooker on edge, 40 cm away from the back wall. Doors for cleaning and the samovar pipe are immediately installed. The next row is laid by analogy.

In the twenty-second row it is necessary to close the doors. Three longitudinal channels are made above the cooking area (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively), on the left - the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid transversely. The next row is done in the same way.

By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are placed.

In the twenty-seventh row you need to lay three bricks at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows are laid.

In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the heat chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is closed with a valve. The next two rows are laid with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.

All that remains is to install a simple chimney for the stove.

Detailed video instructions for laying a stove with your own hands

In custody

The given order of the Shvedki stove is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to cook food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country houses.

But the question of how to build a stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove maker or a person who has already built similar structures. He will certainly give you a lot of valuable advice.

It’s not difficult to build a brick stove that is always ready to warm any home. You just need to learn some of the intricacies of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is the best place to do it?

Based on functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in dachas and small private houses where people do not live in winter. Basically, cooking stove can not heat large area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating units are intended exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, which is why they usually have very compact sizes. Cooking and heating stoves are a combination of the first two types of brick stoves, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke during kindling and combustion, and also create comfortable living conditions in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to put the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

You cannot build a heating device near external wall residential building due to the fact that it will begin to cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
Place the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of the home is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly under it is more suitable.
To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly compiled ordering diagram for specific type ovens.
If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a (mechanical) connection with the base of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

Making a foundation and choosing a brick to build a stove

If the stove is relatively small sizes is being built in an already used house with tiled concrete foundation, it can be mounted directly on an existing base. You only need to lay roofing felt on the concrete floor.

When the flooring of a building is made of wood or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate foundation for the heating device.

You can do it yourself using this scheme:

We mark a place on the floor for the future brick stove.
We remove the marked part of the floor covering and dig a pit in the ground underneath it (its depth should be about half a meter).
At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), compact the resulting “pillow”.
We place a plank along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
We fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, and wait for it to harden.
We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly set), which it is advisable to make more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

After this, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation using the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and purchase bricks, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, fireproof, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks are used, as well as hand-molded products. All these materials should be selected according to their markings, which indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be constructed from special products of grades M150–M200, having:

uniform color;
straight edges with no chips or cracks;
geometrically correct shape;
dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with these parameters, since most of the ordering patterns are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than stove bricks. But be prepared for the oven to come out fireclay material It will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. On the outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures constructed from special kiln brick.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before you build the stove with your own hands, you should understand the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Typically, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that there is any odor (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from it, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. This clay is not suitable for laying a stove. You can take any sand, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined experimentally by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

pour 1 kg of clay with plain water and leave for 24 hours until the composition sours;
knead the clay until it becomes plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled out into 30–40 cm long “sausages” with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around a round piece. larger diameter. After this, wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). All that remains is to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280–300 °C. If the “sausages” are covered with tears and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it to construct a furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase it at a hardware store. ready mixture for furnace work. If you don’t want to bother with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the order scheme you have chosen for specific model stove design, as well as decide on the type of masonry. Common methods of installing bricks are masonry with empty joints and undercuts. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the solution is present in all seams. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the constructed stove is a mandatory operation.

In order to avoid making fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are recommended to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats “replace” the mortar.

Once you have built the entire oven dry and are sure that everything was done correctly, begin to disassemble the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will go much faster for you.

vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
you need to bandage all rows vertically;
the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken to be about 5–7 mm; after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is permissible to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
using ceramic bricks they are dipped in for a couple of seconds plain water, due to which they stick to the mortar without problems, there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
Before laying, bricks should be cleaned from dust and crumbs with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

Several Yet important points. The bricks are placed in their designated place one at a time. If a stone falls “by”, it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then placed again. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace ourselves using clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully leveled and the locations of all the doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After this, you need to establish the position of the corner stones and lay them on the solution.

We use a level to accurately align the horizontal position of the bricks, as well as a tape measure to check the diagonal and plan dimensions of the structure being built. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of a brick stove during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines stretched on a string from the ceiling to the stove corners. The lines made in this way will become an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we lay the second row according to a similar pattern:

put the stones in their place in the corners;
We check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way we lay the third and subsequent rows of brick. Do not forget to constantly check the stove construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of stove, choose the location of the firebox, blower, and ash pan. In normal heating device The blower compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, the ash pit - after the fifth.

When laying a stove, you should adhere to the important principle of tying the stones used, which involves covering the next row of each vertical seam with brick. It is desirable that the vertical connection is located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an “idyll” is rarely achieved. In this case, try to ensure that the seam shift is a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, it is not so difficult to lay out a brick oven with your own hands.