How to make a metal door with your own hands drawing. Insulated metal door from a corner

Branded metal doors are certainly a beautiful thing, but this product, firstly, is expensive, and secondly, it is not always of high quality, so self-confident people make them themselves. Next, we will talk about how to assemble a metal door with your own hands from a corner. We will talk about welding the structure, hanging hinges and installing a lock.

Installation of branded iron doors.

It cannot be said that metal corners are better or worse than the same profiled pipe. Moreover, structures made from profiled pipes are approximately 20% lighter. But for a novice craftsman, making a metal door with your own hands from a corner is easier and more convenient.

Without experience, making a metal door with your own hands from a corner is easier because the metal there is many times thicker, and thick metal is easier to weld, it definitely won’t burn out. If a profiled pipe has a wall thickness of 40x20 mm best case scenario 1.5 mm, then the wing of the 50x50 mm corner has a cross-section of 5 mm.

Metal corner 50x50 mm.

If your material is cut incorrectly and, for example, you need to weld one long post from two short parts for an iron door, then there will be no problems with the corner. While a profiled pipe needs to be precisely joined and welded around the entire perimeter, without “managing” to burn through the thin metal.

And finally, when transporting with a corner, you have nothing to fear: even if a car runs over it, it will survive, but the profiled pipe will be crushed, and all that remains is to sell it for scrap.

Assortment metal corner under the iron doors.

How to make a door from a corner

A do-it-yourself iron door from a corner is made something like this:

  • preparing the instrument;
  • we purchase material;
  • draw up drawings;
  • measure and cut the material;
  • We weld the steel outer frame;
  • We weld the frame under the door leaf;
  • We weld the outer one to the door leaf a metal sheet;
  • we hang the hinges;
  • we cut the lock.

Actually, making doors with your own hands is finished, they will move on Finishing work. That is, you need to paint the entrance doors, as well as insulate and sheathe them (at least from the inside) with some kind of facing material.

Tool and material

Welding metal doors inverter device- This good way out for the home handyman.

  • welding machine;
  • grinder, you can get by with a small one;
  • electric drill, or better yet, a hammer drill;
  • a metal cord brush or a special attachment for an angle grinder;
  • emery;
  • core;
  • hammer;
  • roulette;
  • plumb line;
  • hydraulic level and bubble level 1.5 – 2 m long;
  • clamps;
  • pencil.

Naturally, the power tool will need components: drills, discs for the grinder, mounting anchors for installation, etc., without which it is impossible to make a metal door.

Home handyman kit.

As for the material, it goes like this:

  • For the supporting outer frame, a corner of 50x50 mm - 7 m is usually taken.
  • For the frame under the door leaf, it is advisable to use a 40x40 mm corner, although if you are not going to insulate the structure, you can take 25x25 mm, a total of 8 - 10 m.
  • To secure iron door with your own hands, you need a strip 30–40 mm wide, with a cross-section of 2–4 mm, 1.5–2 m is enough.
  • It is believed that for external cladding you can use a sheet with a thickness of 1 mm, but if you are afraid of burning it during welding work, then take 2.5–3 mm, it’s more reliable.

When you buy a sheet at a metal warehouse, ask them to immediately cut it to size for you. In such production there is almost always a guillotine for cutting sheets. Otherwise, you will have to work with an angle grinder for a long time and it is not a fact that you will be able to cut it straight.

Guillotine for cutting metal sheets.

Drawing or sketch

Searching for diagrams and professionally made drawings is a thankless task, because cases when a metal entrance door assembled according to GOST 31173-2003 clearly fits into the doorway are extremely rare.

Since you have decided to make metal doors with your own hands, it would be much wiser to draw a sketch by hand. It may not be so “beautiful”, but in it you will definitely take into account all the important details and tolerances that are not found in professional drawings.

Naturally, you will have your own dimensions, but before you make a sketch, think about the tolerances (we are talking about a frame made from a 50x50 mm corner):

  • The outer frame should fit into the contour of the doorway with a small gap, ideally 10 mm around the perimeter. From the front side the gap is not visible, since it will be covered by the wing of the corner. But from the inside you will have space to pour polyurethane foam.
  • Consider the thickness of the corner itself. That is, if your gap is 10 mm, plus the angle wing is 5 mm, then the internal perimeter of the frame needs to be narrower by 15 mm (the most common mistake).
  • Entrance doors to multi-storey buildings often have a threshold height of 10–20 mm. There is no point in knocking down this threshold; you can simply cut off the lower wing of the corner up to 30 mm wide. The idea is that the upper wing of the corner touches the threshold, but does not lie on it.
  • A gap of 5 mm is left between the inner and outer frames of iron doors, and do not forget to take into account the thickness of the wing in the corners.
  • The overlap of the front metal sheet on the outer frame must be at least 10 mm, plus 5 mm for the gap between the frames. Total - 15 mm from the frame to the edge of the sheet.

Sample sketch.

Many craftsmen overlap the sheet on the side of the hinges in the region of 5 mm, citing the fact that this way the sheet will not cling to the hinge when opening. But this is a bad practice. It would be more correct to slightly raise the hinges when welding, then the door will open normally and there will be room for the seal under the sheet.

We weld the outer frame

Working on the floor, even if it is absolutely flat, is very inconvenient, because you will have to turn the welded frame over several times, plus on the floor you will not be able to get to the part from below. Therefore, it would be wise to prepare metal workbench. The design can be anything, but the main thing is that the upper plane is level.

Homemade workbench for welding doors.

First we need to cut all the frame parts to size. You can join the frame in the corners either directly, that is, at 90º, or with cutting at 45º. Both methods are reliable, but visually oblique pruning looks much better.

Cutting a corner at 45º is not difficult. So, if the wing size is 50 mm, then we measure 50 mm from the edge and get a square. Next we draw a diagonal inside this square, which will be a guide for cutting.

Quick marking of a corner.

Now you need to cut out the excess parts and lay the corner on a flat workbench. During work, it is advisable to fix the corner on the workbench with clamps.

Laying out a corner on the table.

To ensure that all corners of the outer frame are strictly 90º, you need to orient yourself along the diagonals. That is, the diagonals must be the same. A square is a good thing, but in this case it does not provide absolute accuracy.

Checking the frame using a square.

Next, the corners are boiled. There are also nuances here: you can’t apply a full seam right away; overheating will cause the metal to move and the frame will warp. Therefore, you first need to grab the joint at two or three points on all four corners, and then gradually weld the seams in small strips, moving from corner to corner. When the metal has cooled, the seams made on all sides are cleaned with a grinder.

We weld the inner frame

A gap is left between the inner and outer frame. To accurately set this gap, you need to cut more plates from a corner, strip or any hard material in advance.

Standard plates for maintaining the gap.

The corners of the inner frame are welded in the same way as the corners of the outer frame, but do not rush to immediately remove the clamps and separate the structures. If you are planning to install stiffeners, then they need to be welded right now, so you will eliminate even the slightest distortion or deformation during welding.

Welding the inner frame according to the template.

We weld the sheet

As you remember, the sheet should “look out” beyond the internal frame by at least 15 mm, but many craftsmen advise making a tolerance of 20 mm. An equally wide seal can be glued to such a wide area, thereby protecting against drafts.

Control of sheet protrusion around the perimeter.

There is very important point. The fact is that the corner should be welded to the sheet not flat, but with the upper part of the wing, as shown in the photo below. With this approach you will not have problems with fastening internal lining, plus it’s easier to install insulation in such a niche.

Technique for welding a corner to a sheet.

The corner is welded to the sheet not with a continuous seam, but pointwise, in increments of 10 cm. Again, do not try to weld in a row, fix the sheet in a checkerboard pattern, that is, at different points, this way you will eliminate the possibility of temperature deformations of the metal.

In single doors with an opening width of up to 900 mm, an outer frame from one corner with a cross-section of 50–70 mm is sufficient, but if the door is double-leaf or one-and-a-half (standard leaf plus a small folding section), then it is advisable to weld a reinforced frame. A diagram of such a design is presented below.

Diagram of a reinforced angle frame for a wide iron door.

How to properly weld hinges on an iron door

Naturally, the main detail here is the hinges themselves. There are many varieties of these mechanisms, but an amateur would be better off sticking with the simplest male-male hinges. An example of such a mechanism is shown below.

The only thing you should pay attention to is the availability of lubricant, otherwise after a year the hinges will begin to creak, and it is very inconvenient to remove and lubricate a heavy iron door alone. As a rule, the lubrication hole is made either from the top (in the “female” section) or from the side. Plus, it’s better to insert a ball from the bearing inside, so the mechanism will work longer and smoother.

Standard hinges for iron doors with the possibility of lubrication.

For quality installation loops, in addition to the tools listed at the beginning, we also need a so-called jig. Such a part is made in a couple of minutes from a regular electrode, and it is needed to evenly raise the canopy over the doors.

Conductor for loop.

Before welding the canopy, markings are applied. The hinges should be installed at a distance of 20–25 cm from the top and bottom edges of the door. If you think that the door is very heavy, then the third canopy is welded in the middle of the leaf.

The canopy raised on the jig should either be flush with the plane of the sheet, or stand a couple of millimeters higher. Usually the canopy rises higher if the doors are sheathed with a thick casing, for example, laminated MDF. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the canopy varies around 2–5 mm.

We set up the canopy on the conductor according to the markings.

Now we carefully weld the canopy to the outer frame, after which you can pull out the conductor, move to the next canopy and do the same there.

Checking the level of canopy deviations.

It is highly undesirable for the canopies to be welded only to the edge of the steel sheet. This is especially important if the sheet is thinner than 2.5 mm, therefore, to strengthen the contact area, you need to weld the so-called control plates, the thickness of which is 3–5 mm.

  • the plate is placed on the sheet;
  • moves close to the canopy (“mother” section);
  • tacked at two points, as shown in the photo below;
  • Then apply a level and, if there are no deviations, then you can completely weld the canopies with the plates.

Tack control plates.

A few words about installing the lock

The castle crashes into vertical corner door frame at a height of 1 m. To mark, apply the lock panel to the corner and outline it around the perimeter, after which you take a grinder and cut out a rectangular niche. But the locking panel must be flush with the corner, that is, recessed. To have something to screw this panel to, you need to weld a couple of plates from the inside (arrows point to the plates).

Backing for the lock panel.

When the plates are welded, you need to try a lock on them, mark the future holes, punch, drill and tap the threads there.

Cutting threads for installing a lock.

You will finally insert the lock after painting, but for now just try it on and put it aside.

Correct installation of the lock.

The final touch will be the installation of a protective plate, or more precisely, a casing from the inside of the supporting frame. Such protection is necessary so that the locking bolts cannot be knocked out from the side by prying them up with a pry bar. door frame.

Conclusion

In principle, making a metal door with your own hands from a corner is finished, then comes painting, finishing work and installation, but we will talk about this in other publications.

Any home craftsman can make such a door from a corner.

Even a novice master can do this if he knows how to handle a welding machine.

Of course, you won’t be able to create a complex model right away, but making and installing basic model entrance door – quite accessible.

The importance of the front door cannot be underestimated.

This is not only the first and main line that prevents dishonest citizens from entering your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Sound insulation and regulation of air temperature in the room are two more functions of a metal entrance door.

And if you start in an apartment major renovation, then the question of installing a new metal entrance door is one of the first to be decided.

Store-bought finished door does not guarantee at all that there are no hidden defects in it, and the prices there are not always affordable, adjusting it will be difficult, and the sound insulation will probably not suit you.

Well, self-made shaped doors are still ahead of you, but we’ll start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paper work, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

In order for the drawing to be accurate and true to reality, you have to decide on the dimensions.

The design diagram of the front door offered for review will introduce you to the names and locations of the main components and elements.

Preparing the diagram

The drawing of the entrance metal door is a scale diagram door leaf, according to which the assembly and installation of the product will be carried out, with dimensions marked on it door frame, locations of stiffeners and hinges.

We arm ourselves with a tape measure and take measurements from the doorway.

The standard door size is 90 x 200 cm; if the actual dimensions of the opening are significantly larger than the data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or on the side of the door leaf.

The side block can be made solid or hinged, and the top block can be covered with sheet metal, glazed or lattice.

We also apply all this to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm smaller than the doorway - this will be the installation gap in which the installation of the block is adjusted to avoid distortions. Below is a sectional diagram of a metal door.

Most often, the door is attached to 2-4 hinges, their number depends on the weight of your structure.

Hinges can be external or hidden; the second option is more difficult to manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a “door for beginners,” we will focus on the first option.

To distribute the load evenly, the hinges should be made at an equal distance from each other, and the top and bottom hinges should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make stiffening ribs in any direction - horizontally, vertically or in a mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is at your discretion.

The ribs must be made so that they do not pass through the places where the lock, peephole, door handle.

You determine the number of ribs yourself; it must ensure that the door does not bend under its own weight, otherwise the door will require repairs after some time.

So, the drawing is ready.

Preparing materials and tools

Having decided on the dimensions, we prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work, count the number necessary materials and go to the store.

We are offering to you sample list tools:

  • welding machine;
  • drill;
  • a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
  • Bulgarian;
  • clamps;
  • files or grinder;
  • trestles or door table for assembly;
  • measuring instruments (corner; tape measure, etc.);
  • building level.

For metal door standard size you will need:

  • steel sheet 2-3 mm thick - 100 x 200 cm;
  • metal corner 3;2 x 3;2 cm – 6 running meters. (for door frame);
  • profile pipe 5 x 2;5 cm - about 9 l.m. (for the door frame and stiffeners);
  • metal plates 40 x 4 cm, 2-3 mm thick - at least 4 pieces (for attaching the door frame to the walls);
  • door hinges;
  • lock;
  • accessories;
  • anchor bolts;
  • anti-corrosion coating;
  • metal paint;
  • polyurethane foam.

Choose fittings and locks to suit your taste. Manufacturers offer big choice locks, the most reliable of which are considered to be three-sided.

A lock with bolts on three sides is, of course, more difficult to install, but it is also not easy to break into.

If you are making a metal door for a utility room (shed), then it is permissible to make a lightweight one economical option– in this case, for stiffeners instead profile pipe a thick reinforcing rod is used.

Door assembly

The work of assembling a metal door is carried out in several stages.

Assembling the box

You need to make blanks for the box from the corrugated pipe, cut the corners inward at an angle of 90°, lay out the corner into a rectangle, secure it with clamps and weld it in place.

Afterwards, we check the perpendicularity of the sides with a square, and also measure the distance between diagonally opposite pairs of angles and compare, the resulting measurements should be equal.

If there is misalignment, additional adjustment will be required. If everything is in order, then we perform final welding and grinding of the seams.

We will use the same scheme a little later to assemble the door frame.

We weld metal mounting plates to the box.

Assembling the door leaf

Here we need a new measurement - we take measurements along the inner walls of the door frame.

By stepping back 7-10 cm on each side, we get the actual dimensions of the frame of our metal door.

We saw sections of the required length from the corners and carry out preliminary processing, similar to the blank for a door frame.

We place the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and carry out a control measurement of the correctness of the design.

If necessary, we make adjustments and weld the joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which we lay the steel sheet on the table (horses), place the finished frame on top and draw a contour of the required dimensions, retreating from the outer edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

We cut the sheet along the contour, grind the cut points and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, to avoid deformation, do not weld with a continuous, unbroken seam.

It is much more functional to weld in lengths of about 30 mm at intervals of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Take your time, periodically let the door cool down, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and the door will have to be repaired within a short period of time.

Place the door leaf on the table outer side down, you need to install a door frame on top.

Using pads 2-5 mm thick around the entire perimeter, the position of the box relative to the frame is adjusted.

Installation will be done into this gap later. sealing tape, which will improve the qualities of the door such as sound insulation.

On the finished door leaf, we make cuts for the internal lock and, if necessary, for the peephole, drill holes for attaching the door handle, and carefully sand the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is free of play, but provides access to the lock if repairs are required.

We will embed the lock itself and install the fittings a little later.

If you are using the padlock, then you need to install linings for it at the same level of the door leaf and frame.

We attach the halves to the door frame door hinges with grooves, weld the second parts of the hinges (with pins pointing upward) in the appropriate places to the door frame so that they are located on the same axis, grind the welding points.

Some hinges are equipped with holes for lubrication; in this case, their installation should provide access to the service holes and the ability to remove the door if repairs need to be made.

We wipe the metal structure from dust and shavings so that hidden defects do not appear after painting, apply anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can tint or make a decorative finish.

You can learn more about the manufacturing process of a metal entrance door in more detail and visually using the video below.

We mount the door

We place the door frame in the opening and make adjustments using a plumb line and level so that you don’t have to make repairs in the near future.

Having achieved the correct position of the frame, we carry out installation, securing the steel hinges to the wall using anchors, and hanging the door leaf on the hinges.

We check - if the installation is done correctly, the metal door will close and open without distortion, without catching on the door frame, and the hinges will move effortlessly.

On final stage The peephole is installed, the lock is inserted and the handle is installed.

The lock and handle are bolted to the door so that they can be repaired or replaced without any problems in the future.

After installing the lock, rub end sides crossbars with chalk and make marks on the door frame. We cut out the metal according to the resulting marks, forming grooves for the crossbars.

To further protect the lock from possible burglary, we weld a piece of corner to the door leaf where the bolts exit; it also makes sense to reinforce the door leaf at the location where the lock is installed by welding it inside steel sheet 6 mm thick.

At the same stage, adjustments are made to the operation of the lock and the tightness of closing the door.

Another video for those doing repairs gives very relevant recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and install the lock, and how to adjust it.

Now you can begin the final finishing.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as sound insulation, preventing foreign odors and low-temperature air from outside from entering the room.

Ordinary polystyrene foam is generally recognized as the most practical, effective and cheapest insulating material for finishing doors.

Cutting foam into pieces the right size and lay them without gaps in the space of the door leaf between the stiffeners.

For better sealing let's take advantage polyurethane foam, with which we will seal the space between the foam and the stiffeners, around the lock, and also fill the internal space of the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

Sound insulation is also excellently provided by mineral wool.

The inside of a metal door can be sheathed wooden slats, MDF panels or other finishing material, and glue the sealing tape around the perimeter of the door leaf.

We foam the installation gaps between the door frame and the doorway slopes. Our design is ready for use!

Now you can be sure that there are no hidden defects in this design, the quality of the metal entrance door is 100%, and doing the work yourself has allowed you to save a considerable amount from the family budget when performing repairs.

The installation of a metal entrance door is demonstrated to us by craftsmen in this video tutorial.


In former times, the question of how to make a metal door with your own hands did not worry the residents of our country at all. Products made from sheet steel appeared in the 90s of the last century and did not look particularly aesthetically pleasing. Their purpose was to reliably close the entrance to the home. But over time, steel doors have also become a decorative element of the building facade.

The main material is rolled metal. For the manufacture of regular door without particularly elaborate finishing, you need a sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm and a metal profile for the frame and door frame. A corner with a side of 4.5-5 cm or a corrugated pipe (square) of approximately the same cross-section will do.

The calculation of the material is made after taking measurements of the door opening. To be able to properly insulate the joints of the frame and the wall, the measurement must be reduced by 1-2 cm around the perimeter. After installation, the gaps can be filled with foam and prevent the flow of cold air into the cracks.

Measurements for the frame are taken from the inside of the box after it has been manufactured. To simultaneously purchase material, you can use the dimensions of the door frame in your calculations. In addition to the perimeter of these parts of the door block, you need to calculate the dimensions of the frame stiffeners. Their number and arrangement are quite arbitrary and must be designed independently. To find out the amount of angle or pipe, the lengths of all parts of the box and frame are summed up and another 10-15% is added for processing.

The metal calculation for the door leaf is made based on the size of the frame. The outer part of the canvas should overlap the junction of the frame and the box by 1.5-2 cm around the perimeter. The inside of the door can be sheathed not with a metal sheet, but with MDF, clapboard or other lumber. If you want to have a completely iron door in the room, then the parameters of the inner sheet must match the dimensions of the frame frame.

Metal entrance doors can be insulated using EPS boards, mineral wool (isover) or similar materials. The gaps between pieces of foam plastic and frame racks can be easily filled with polyurethane foam.


Some doors have non-standard sizes. The opening is too wide or high, the arched entrance must be divided into parts, one of which should be equal to the approximate dimensions of a standard entrance door (no more than 1.5 by 2 m). For the rest, develop a design sketch using separate fixed frames sheathed in metal. They often serve as a decorative frame for the opening and include small windows, wrought iron elements or other trim.

Having selected the materials, you need to prepare the following tools:

  • grinder;
  • welding machine;
  • drill with metal drills;
  • construction square and tape measure.

For final finishing the door will require fittings, a lock, hinges and related decorative elements.

Making an iron door


Before you make an iron door with your own hands, you need to cut the metal into pieces of the required length. To make the box even, without distortion, you will need to measure its diagonals before starting welding. To mark the ends of a corner or pipe, you will need a construction square or a template with a 450 cut. Apply the tool to 1 side of the corner or to the opposite sides of the corrugated pipe, mark the cutting line and cut off the excess metal according to the marking. In the same way, prepare the ends of the upper and lower trim and side profiles.

The parts should be folded, joining the cut ends. Using a tape measure, measure 2 diagonals of the rectangle. They must coincide completely, only then can all angles be considered right and the sides equal in pairs. Eliminate the identified defects with a grinder, cutting the corner in the right places. Determine the location of the lock and cut holes for the tongue or bolt.

Weld the box parts. After the metal has cooled, grind the welded areas with a grinder so that in the future the blade will fit tightly along the entire perimeter of the box.

How to make a frame for canvas

Carefully measure the inside of the box. In order for the door to move freely in the opening, subtract 1 cm from the length and width measurements. When manufacturing and installing the frame, this will allow the formation of gaps around the perimeter of the door.

The prepared parts are trimmed in the same way as the parts of the box, at an angle of 45°. Place the frame inside the box, inserting 5 mm thick pieces of metal to fix the gaps. Measure diagonals and eliminate defects if necessary.

Make marks at the location where the lock will be installed. Take out the profile on which the lock will be located and cut a hole for the bolts. Reconnect the frame parts inside the door frame, check the alignment of the holes. Weld the corners of the frame from the inside. In several places, weld the door frame to the frame.

Cut out the middle vertical stiffener from metal. There can be 2 of them if the owner considers it necessary. Between the stiffener and the edge of the door, make a small frame for installing the lock: weld 2 short profiles horizontally and place a plate between them, if required by the method of fastening the lock body.

Cut and weld horizontal or inclined stiffeners inside the iron door frame. Their number and location are arbitrary. If the door has decorative window, frame it inside the frame

Install 2-3 hinges so that their card parts are inside the gap left during assembly. Tack the assembled hinges to the corresponding parts of the frame and box by welding. Install the lock, adjust it so that the bolts can easily fit into the holes. If necessary, make a keyhole in the plate installed for fastening, cut threads for decorative overlays on the frame. Remove the lock.

How to make a door leaf


The sheet of metal must be marked according to the measurements taken from the frame part. On the porch and horizontal parts of the door, the overlap on the frame should be at least 1-1.5 cm. In the back part near the hinges, leave an overlap of about 0.5 cm or more, but so that it does not interfere with opening the door later.

Place the canvas under the finished box connected to the frame. Weld the sheet to the frame from the inside. Cut off the boxes made for fixing welding seams, open and close the door. If all operations were carried out accurately and carefully, then a hand-made metal door will move freely.

Having opened the door leaf, you need to finally weld the roughly tacked hinges. So that the welds do not interfere with closing, they are cleaned with an angle grinder (grinder). In the right place on the canvas, make a keyhole and threaded holes for decorative overlay. Finally secure the lock in place, check its operation and adjust if necessary.

Door interior trim

The master finishes the inside of the door with his own hands according to his own taste:

  • plywood;
  • clapboard;
  • Chipboard.

Typically, a metal sheet is not placed on the inside, which makes the massive structure a little lighter and saves on rental costs. If the frame was made of corrugated pipe, then the trim can be attached directly to it. The corner will require additional embedded wood elements. They can be secured to the door frame with self-tapping screws screwed into holes pre-drilled in the corner (side).

To insulate an iron entrance door, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is placed between the stiffeners and the frame frame. Elastic material such as mineral wool easily fills the entire space. Polystyrene foam or EPS has to be cut into pieces that may not fit closely to the frame parts. You can seal the gaps with foam.

When the insulation is laid, attach it yourself interior lining connecting to embedded bars or pipes will not be difficult. If desired, cover the surface with leatherette or leather, cover it with veneer valuable species wood or decorate otherwise. You can leave the decor to the discretion of the housewife, so she can do it herself. Strengthen the frame in the opening with anchors and fill the gaps with foam. Glue the seal.

The door can simply be painted with automotive enamel from a can. Finishing options include application forged elements. You can buy or order exclusive patterns from the workshop. If the door has glass insert, then the forged decor will provide additional security, playing the role of a lattice. If desired outer part doors can be trimmed with wood, strengthening panels or veneer on metal using reliable universal glue or self-tapping screws.

Independent production of entrance steel door using inexpensive hammer painting will save significant amounts of money by the standards of the average person.

However, this option for its arrangement is only feasible for those who have at least minimal experience work with standard welding equipment, and for whom welding doors does not seem something completely impossible.

It is precisely these people who will be interested in learning about how they can weld a steel door with their own hands, without resorting to the mediation of third-party workers.

On preparatory stage The following operations are considered mandatory:

  • taking the dimensions of the entrance doorway;
  • procurement of all necessary materials;
  • preparing and bringing into working condition the tools necessary for welding a metal door.

Let's look at each of these operations in more detail.

Measurement

Before you make an iron door yourself, you will need to take careful measurements entrance opening, the dimensions of which are recommended to be taken in several places at once. At the same time, the width is measured with special care, which determines the main characteristics of the future door.

The measurement results are necessarily recorded on a sketch of the product, the drawing of which must always be “at hand”.

Materials

As for the source materials for the door, the choice is determined by the preferences of the artist. However, most often this list includes such standard items as:

  • cold-rolled steel sheet of the appropriate size with a thickness of about 1.5-2 millimeters (for making the door leaf);
  • a set of blanks cut from a profile pipe with the same wall thickness and a cross-section of 40x20 millimeters (used for welding the door frame and frame);
  • canopies in the amount of 2 pieces and metal plates under them;
  • inexpensive and reliable lock.

In preparation the necessary tool Special attention paid to the selection of a suitable welding machine, which should be extremely easy to use and quite reliable.

In addition to it, you will definitely need a grinder with a set of disks, as well as an electric drill and measuring devices, by means of which the specified dimensions of the doors and frames are controlled during the welding process.

For ease of fixation of welded metal elements door design You should stock up on a pair of clamp-type clamps. They will significantly facilitate all installation operations.

It is possible to make a high-quality metal door if you follow all the instructions for its assembly and work carefully and carefully.

Cutting blanks

At the initial stage of the main work, you should start manufacturing and adjusting individual door elements. For this purpose, first, according to the drawing, four profile blanks are prepared (cut out) used for arranging vertical racks boxes. Cross members are prepared in the same way, the size of which must exactly correspond to the numbers indicated in the sketch.

When installing metal structure between door block and the wall should leave a gap of about one centimeter, which must be taken into account when setting the dimensions in the sketch.

Upon completion of this work, it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of the frame elements of the door leaf, for which it is necessary to cut four horizontal lintels and two side posts from the profile.

After this, using a cutter (grinder) you should adjust the previously prepared steel sheet to the dimensions of the resulting door frame.

After cutting and adjusting the parts of the metal structure, it is necessary to clean out sharp and protruding irregularities and remove burrs, and then you can proceed directly to assembling the entire door as a whole.

To facilitate subsequent processing of the canvas before painting, at this stage of work it is advisable to remove any rust from the surfaces of the workpieces. To do this, it is most convenient to use a special wire brush or coarse sandpaper.

Instructions for welding the door leaf

It is customary to begin welding a steel door yourself by making a supporting frame, onto which the finished and finished door is then hung.

However, based on personal experience Some users and non-professionals are advised to start installation work with the canvas.

This order will allow them to maintain all the necessary parameters within normal limits, without violating the right angles provided for by the design and preventing the door from skewing in the frontal plane.

So, according to the instructions, the front door begins to be made from the canvas, for which the metal sheet blank is first laid on a flat, flat surface (table or workbench).

After laying the sheet, you should align it in the working plane and check it with a building level.

And only upon completion of this mandatory procedure already cut frame blanks are laid out on a sheet with an indentation of about one centimeter from its edges and with strict adherence angular dimensions(90 degrees).

Having laid out the workpieces according to the sketch, it will be possible to grab only the crossbars in several places for welding, and then securely fix them with clamps.

These actions are followed by the same operations regarding the vertical posts, which are welded from the inside of the profile.

After roughly placing the structural elements, making sure that all dimensions (including corners) correspond to the sketch, you can proceed to their final fixation for welding.

Having received the metal frame of the door leaf correct form, it is necessary to increase its rigidity by installing 2 intermediate jumpers, mounted in the same way as all previous parts (photo on the right).

At the end of this stage installation work All that remains is to thoroughly clean all the formed welded joints using a grinder.

When final welding profiles and sheets, it is not recommended to make continuous seams, which can lead to deformation of the metal surface. Experts advise fixing profiles for welding at intervals of approximately 10 centimeters.

Features of door frame welding

In the example under consideration, the outer supporting frame of the door consists of double metal profiles, which are welded at right angles to each other.

Therefore, you first need to design the outer frame of the box by laying profiles around the perimeter of the finished canvas and fastening them with tacks.

Another profile rectangular blank is placed flat on the previous two with a slight overlap, ultimately forming the internal frame structure of the door frame.

After placing all the profiles forming the frame in their places, you should first lightly grab them, and then (after making sure that the placement is accurate) spot weld them together.

To carry out subsequent operations, it is necessary to separate the box from the canvas and place it on a workbench or work table. After a thorough examination of the external joints, you should sand them using a grinder.

On the inside, that is, where the sash is adjacent, stitches are not necessary.

At this point, the main part of the door welding work can be considered completed, after which all that remains is to install the awnings and lock.

It should be noted that self-made doors are practically not inferior in quality and reliability to factory-made products, provided that during their manufacture all the requirements of the instructions and dimensions were met.

To avoid possible distortions and inconsistencies during the work process, special attention should be paid to the adjustment of the main structural elements.

Although there are many models on sale entrance doors, in some cases suitable option It's quite difficult to choose. Some are not satisfied with the dimensions due to the non-standard opening at the installation site, others are afraid of hidden defects in the product, and others are embarrassed by the high cost of the kit.

Handmade production of a metal door, with proper organization process has a number of advantages. For example, you don’t have to worry about the quality of the design; it can be assembled according to any acceptable drawing, and there won’t be any problems with the design - there are many techniques. In addition, the costs of assembling and finishing the block will be minimal.

Preparation stage

Work should begin with dismantling old door and complete cleaning of the opening. Only after a thorough examination of the condition of the base can one conclude whether it is suitable for installing a metal structure or not. It may be necessary to narrow (expand) it in accordance with the required dimensions and further strengthen it. The latter is typical for buildings made of cellular concrete, wood, as well as from other materials with a significant degree of wear. Consequently, the necessary technological operations are carried out.

After obtaining a passage in the wall with the correct geometry, you can begin taking measurements. Based on this, a drawing of a metal door is developed. In addition to determining the dimensions of the frame and sash, you should also choose a design diagram. First of all, in which direction is it more convenient to open the canvas, where is it better to install locks, hinges (their number) and fittings (handle, peephole) on it. Sometimes it is advisable to make a “one and a half” version. In it, the small sash is rigidly fixed, but if it is necessary to temporarily expand the opening (for example, when moving large loads), it is easy to open it.

  • The design of a metal door is drawn up taking into account the fact that there should be a small gap (about 15 - 20 mm) between the jamb and the base. It is called editing. It allows, firstly, to correctly align the frame, adjust its position, and secondly, to additionally insulate the opening around the perimeter.
  • The hinges on the door are placed at an equal distance from each other, and their number is determined by the weight of the leaf; With its light weight, two canopies are enough. But in any case, their distance (top and bottom) from the sash cuts is selected to be about 150 mm (for openings of standard height).

Materials and supplies are being prepared. When working with iron, welding will be required. Plus, a hammer drill (electric drill with a chipper) and a grinder. Everything else is normal household tool, square, tape measure. It’s a little more difficult with materials; you’ll have to choose.

  • Corners or profiles (with a side of 4 cm) are suitable for the frame. Here it is worth focusing on the purpose of the structure, the requirements for its stability and the option for further finishing. If it is expected high-quality insulation, increased strength, then a door made of a profile pipe - The best decision. But stiffening ribs can also be made from a corner.
  • The frame covering is made of sheet steel. It is necessary to optimally combine such indicators as the total mass of the canvas and its strength. But in any case, it is not recommended to use metal less than 2 mm thick.
  • Fastening elements. Any iron door, whether homemade or purchased, is fixed in the opening anchor bolts. The only exception is for models mounted in wooden (frame) buildings. As a rule, when self-installation doors at their entrance, they are attached to special frames or to the base using welding or large hardware.

Everything else - seals, thermal insulation and Decoration Materials, fasteners, fittings - at the discretion of the master.

If you lack experience in making steel doors with your own hands, it is better to limit yourself to overhead hinges. Hidden canopies are much more difficult to install and require a professional approach.

The procedure for manufacturing metal structures

A do-it-yourself iron door, regardless of its diagram and drawing, is assembled according to one algorithm. Initially, individual elements are made.

Box

There are no problems with it, but provided that all measurements and cutting of blanks are made correctly, in strict accordance with the drawn up drawing. It is not difficult to weld individual parts into a single structure of the correct geometry. You just need to work on a perfectly flat, hard surface and constantly monitor the angles. Once the jamb is assembled, all seams are carefully polished with a diamond disc.

It is mandatory to weld hinges and fastening strips with drilled holes to the box. Using the final details, it is fixed to a wall made of any material.

Door leaf

  • The frame manufacturing technique is absolutely identical.
  • For reinforcement, stiffeners are installed according to the selected pattern.
  • A groove is cut for the lock tongue.
  • Frame sheathing on one side. It is produced by fastening steel sheets by welding, with a slight overlap. In the area of ​​the hinges it is about 5 mm, along the length of the frame it is about 10 - 15. It is recommended to “tack” the cladding with several seams, no more than 40 mm in length. To ensure reliability of fastening, the intervals between adjacent sections are selected within 20.

  • Depending on the design, at this stage of assembling a metal door, the lock fastening elements are installed, the hinges are welded (those parts that are attached to the leaf) and a window for the peephole is cut out.

  • If the sash is supposed to be insulated, then it is immediately laid thermal insulation material; it is placed between the stiffening ribs, which prevents it from sagging under its own weight.

  • All that remains is to weld the second sheet of metal to the wrong side of the frame and also cut a hole in it for the peephole and the lock cylinder.
  • The last thing to do with the sash is to carry out a control check of its geometry and sand all joints, welds and paint with primer to prevent metal corrosion.

If the “one and a half” scheme is chosen, then all technological operations for the small blade are absolutely identical, with the exception of the eye and door lock. But upper and lower stops should be provided for fixation in a stationary position.

Finishing

Making a metal door with your own hands is not all. It must be formatted accordingly. With blocks installed in outbuildings it is quite simple; as a rule, they are painted. But if we are talking about a door at the entrance to a residential building (apartment), then it is advisable to decorate it. The choice of option is at the discretion of the owner, and some recommendations will help with this.

How you can finish the canvas:

  • Hard materials - multilayer plywood, fiberboard, vinyl plastic, wooden lining, laminate, MDF followed by varnish coating (colorless or with tinting components).
  • Leatherette and leatherette are used to cover the sash.
  • The water door to the apartment can be covered with decorative film. Since the impact of atmospheric factors is minimal, this finish will last a long time. And taking into account the low cost and simplicity of design, it is one of the best solutions.

Assembly of the structure

Essentially, it all comes down to hanging the sash, checking its position, the operation of the locks and adjustments (if necessary). All that remains is to install the handle, lock and peephole. If the door design includes crossbars and lower (upper) stops, then you need to make markings.

The sash is covered, and the places for drilling holes are marked on the jamb. After readiness, their coincidence with the fixing elements is checked. This applies to both the main canvas and the additional, small one.

The final “touch” is installing the manufactured door into the opening and lubricating all rubbing parts (which many people forget about). After this, we can state that everything is complete, the work has been completed.

For those who have skills in working with metals and want to get an iron door High Quality at low costs, it self-production- the best option. Moreover, the drawing, diagram, external finishing It is not the manufacturer who chooses, but the master. This means that the entrance to the house will not only be reliably protected, but also originally designed, and block construction fits perfectly into the interior of a specific building.