How to assemble a house from timber. Construction technology from timber of different sizes

Profiled wood with proper processing quality gives a gapless connection. A lock made of groove elements - the tongue of a labyrinth-type double cup lock has been tested for decades. Adjusting gapless corner joints can transform a frame timber house in a thermos without significant heat loss.

Cold bridges are blocked

Order ready standard project building a cottage from timber with reference to the region is profitable. It is up to the designer to select from savings on the network and adapt the technical design to the request. What are the advantages of the project:

• Get a detailed cost estimate for materials, components, and work costs;
• Issues of material shortages or sale of remaining surplus will not arise;
• Detailed drawings and subassemblies will lead you out of the maze of errors;
• Transport costs are optimized;
• Laying pipes and cables will not cause any difficulties;
• The maximum cost of a standard project is 20 thousand rubles.

But the implementation of the idea depends on the need to hire a team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the seriousness of hidden defects will become clear during the first wintering.

What should an ordinary person, inexperienced in construction, who is planning to build warm house from profiled timber with your own hands? Order a house kit from a local house-building plant and save a significant amount of money with this step and speed up your move-in date.

Essentially, a house kit is a kit for the builder. The profiled timber is cut to size, the dovetail type connecting locks are made without gaps using precise factory equipment, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.

In the attached video, craftsmen use a chainsaw for this purpose. But are they capable of reproducing the precision of a machine production line? It can be seen that the cuts were made approximately, with a margin. Will they definitely caulk or foam the inconsistencies in the cuts? Doubt encourages self-building. And the cost of the work will amount to no less than factory processing.

Do-it-yourself house made of profiled timber

The benefits of purchasing a house kit made from profiled timber

The technological worker replaced the carpenter - that’s what machining means

The developer is limited in time, looking for an opportunity to reduce the cost of building a log house. Let’s look point by point at whether the costs of cutting and sampling are reasonable:

• You get a forest chamber drying 10–16% humidity in sealed bags;
• End processing with film-forming stabilizer INDULINE. This means that the main channel for moisture absorption is blocked, the web of cracks will not disfigure the cut;
• Each part is numbered, the instructions indicate the location of assembly;
• Adjustments and modifications are excluded, time is spent only on the process of assembling the house;
• Check prices at wholesale stores per cubic meter of long profiled timber. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of a house kit is the same or up to 10% more expensive - this is where the benefit is hidden;
• A set of timber for a house with an area of ​​120 m2 will cost approximately 650,000 rubles, for 190 m2 - approximately 950,000 rubles;
• The average assembly cost will be 25% of the cost of the timber. Manage the reserve fund at your own discretion;
• The thickness of the log house will be offered according to climatic zone: a common timber size of 150 x 150 mm is suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, wall thicknesses less than 220–250 mm are unacceptable;
• Installation will be doubled;
• The material is 100% treated with antiseptic and fire retardant.

100% complete from base to ridge, this is the construction service

Ready-made house kits from the manufacturer

Laying the foundation

Weight of 1 m 3 of dried coniferous timber 0.5 tons. Roofing will be added, interfloor ceilings, furniture, wind and snow load. The total weight will not exceed 40 tons for two-story house 10 x 10 m. Depth groundwater and soil type influence the choice of basis.

The pile will speed up the start of the assembly of the log house. Columnar and shallow foundations are labor-intensive: the volume of excavated soil is large. To prevent the concrete from getting wet, a compacted sand bed of 0.3 m is made, with a gravel cushion on top.

The concrete foundation is poured in advance, at least six months before the start of construction. Box reinforcement with a metal period of Ø 12–14 mm will strengthen the monolith. After polymerization of the concrete, the base must stand so that the heaving of the soil during freezing and thawing reveals weak spots or confirmed strength.

The marking of the foundation of the house is carried out in accordance with the drawing. Corner reference points of external and internal mates require special attention. Precision is required in the placement of threaded inserts. After removing the formwork, the walls and top edge are coated with a waterproofing agent. Insulation with polystyrene foam will extend the life of the foundation. Backfilling of clay is done with an outward bevel.

Raising a house from profiled timber

We level the upper edge of the foundation and lay 2 rows of roofing material for waterproofing. We lay antiseptic and treated bitumen mastic Fifty boards of a larger format: the logs will rest on them.

The bottom row is susceptible to rotting. Let's sacrifice the boards - they are easier to replace. We lay the first crown over the insulation layer. Special attention We pay attention to the coincidence of angles. We do not let go of the level, plumb line, and cord for checking the diagonal.

Insulation tape is inserted into the grooves of each row of profiled timber and corner joints of external walls. Wooden dowels, driven in with tension, strengthen the connection between the elements of the log house. Steel ties will cause dew point in the thickness of the material, causing decay and rotting. Therefore, they are used only to connect the log house with the foundation.

There is no loophole for the cold: the barrier is reliable

The installation of logs under the subfloor is consistent with the size of the slab mineral wool insulation in increments of 0.6 m. Fastening to the timber with reinforced corners and on hangers stabilizes the spatial position of the logs.

Splicing is allowed by overlapping or by placing trim at the joint with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m at each end. On both sides, the logs are covered with 9 mm OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood. Installation of a vapor-conducting membrane is required.

The interfloor ceiling is analogous to the subfloor. The only difference is the amount of insulation that has become a sound insulator. Partitions are mounted in one axis - partial unloading is required load-bearing walls: in addition to its own weight, the roof transmits wind load.

The skill of assembling walls from profiled timber and partitions according to drawings and instructions comes quickly. An important concern, while the roof is not covered, is to protect the log house and unclaimed workpieces from precipitation and air humidity in bad weather.

In heat and frost, cracking of wood saturated with moisture is inevitable. The appearance of cracks will worsen the thermal conductivity of wood. Repairing damage is a long-term “pleasure” that lasts more than just one day.

Let's give the floor to the Scandinavians

There are a lot of insulation materials that are superior to wood in terms of heat conservation. And large-format profiled timber is used for roads due to the abundance of waste that is unsuitable for processing into building materials. Swedish builders decided to reduce the cost of processes by including paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.

Using smaller section wood reduces costs by up to 40%. Foamed breathable insulation seals joints and reduces power heating devices even in the Arctic zone. Penoizol is ideal in terms of cost and thermophysical properties on the market.

An option was tested with the replacement of wooden beams with a laminated analogue of chipboard made from chips. The 100 mm heat insulator bears the main load for heat conservation. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage has also decreased. It often makes sense to adopt such a new product.

Progress does not stand still

If you know how to build, learn to wait

After you have brought the house under the roof, closed the windows and doors and left only gaps for drafts (let excess moisture blow out), you need to wait for shrinkage. Under its own weight, the tenons of the timber will cut deeper into the grooves of the structure. The pause lasts up to six months. Window, door frames They are waiting in the wings, otherwise the structure will warp.

Now is the time to spend additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that in this way the costs of profiled timber are reduced: a reduction in size by 50 mm in thickness and width results in savings of 2–2.5 thousand rubles. per cubic meter

The only condition: natural and artificial materials that have vapor conductivity are used. Let's turn the house into a polystyrene box - destroy the tree, set up a bathhouse in the room. You will have to invest in forced ventilation.

No matter how good the profiled timber is, the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut, leave it as is. The texture of the timber under a layer of varnish looks attractive. But, of course, designing a modern, stylish home requires a different approach.

As an option, drywall mounted on vertical holders will hide the flaws. A heat insulator will be placed between the guides and the house will not be afraid of the cold. While one floor is being finished, the other will become residential.
Protecting the facade of a house made of profiled timber, as a regular event, will drive you crazy. Varnishes, paints, and impregnations fade under the sun and lose their protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about a ventilated facade. But the house, assembled from timber, under plastic lining will lose the charm of natural material.

Result: own roof over your head

Conclusion

Construction of a house from timber on our own during the summer season - this is a feasible task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this may be the only wish of the manufacturer. The implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the contractor as one person ensures that your expectations are met.

To build a house from timber, certain carpentry skills are required. The process of building a house is carried out in several stages. Laying of profiled timber must be carried out according to the developed technology in order to achieve best result. It is important to carry out appropriate calculations and select quality materials. The work carried out by specialists will help to build a house in the shortest possible time and save costs.

Laying profiled timber the right technology will provide high quality buildings Source tiu.ru

Foundation preparation

For building a house, the optimal foundation is considered to be a strip foundation. To arrange it, stones and vegetation are removed, mounds and holes are leveled. When the site is leveled, the territory is marked. After this, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the building and the soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled beam is quite light, so for a one-story building you can use a shallow foundation.

For multi-story construction or construction on unstable soil, the foundation must correspond to the freezing level of the soil. On average, this figure reaches 1.2-1.5 m.

The following materials are needed for the foundation:

concrete, sand, crushed stone;

formwork;

reinforcing rods.

Any home begins with preparing the foundation Source penza-press.ru

The trench is filled with sand and crushed stone, and a mesh is laid with rods to reinforce the foundation. It is recommended to use tying wire rather than welding to connect the rods. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is filled with concrete. For the manufacture of concrete mortar Cement, sand and crushed stone are used - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials is 1:3:4, cement grade is at least 400. The foundation stands for about 2 weeks.

Laying the first row

For construction, only smooth and intact beams that have no visible defects are used. The laying of timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used; if gray sections or spots are found on it, then they cannot be used. During the construction process, roofing felt, bitumen, dowels and antiseptic are additionally laid.

For structural strength, dowels are used to fasten the beams Source myvideosait.ru

The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, roofing material on top, its width is at least 20 cm larger than the foundation, the edges hang evenly on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future structure from moisture. At all joints, roofing material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, coated well with bitumen and pressed. Before assembly, you need to determine the type of connection at the corners. The cutout at the top beam of the lower part is considered advantageous, and vice versa at the bottom. This fastening option allows you to save on material, and the ends will not extend beyond the corners of the building.

All work on assembling the structure begins with marking and further cutting of the prepared material. Before assembly, the wood is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and only then holes are drilled in it every 50 cm along the beam. Two beams are laid on both sides, and on top, grooves are made in them at the ends. The row is leveled, the corners are adjusted, the protrusions are corrected with a plane.

Source giropark.ru

After securing the first row, assembling a house from timber involves installing the floor covering, as well as the base of the walls. Beams of 15x10 cm are used. Grooves of 40 cm are cut into the beams inside(it is recommended to use “T”-shaped grooves), the ends of the beams must be trimmed. This insertion method increases the strength of the connections. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally so that they are in the same plane.

Marking timber

1 – joints;

A, C/D, B – longitudinal/transverse walls;

E – partitions.

Walls can be built from solid timber and extensions, partitions/transverses - made of solid timber. An overlap of 15 cm to the floor is made in the longitudinal wall. To obtain the most accurate and identical dimensions and cutouts, it is best to use templates that will help you quickly carry out the process and transfer the contours to the timber.

All markings on the uneven bars are made using the same template Source pinterest.ru

Joining the frame, drilling holes, insulation

Dowels made of wood or metal are used to connect each crown. From the end of the beam they are located at a distance of at least 25 cm, and then every 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest one, at least two dowels should be used, the length of which is at least one and a half times longer than the beam. The dowels must be buried several centimeters into the tree.

The holes are slightly smaller in diameter so they fit snugly. The depth of the hole is several centimeters greater than the dowels used. For drilling, use a drill with a limiter so that all dimensions are the same. The seal is carried out with a special insulation tape. The tape is stretched over the entire surface of the beam in several layers and secured with staples. On the outside, if the wall is not sheathed, the gasket is made at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not get wet.

The beams are laid overlapping each other, the edges are secured with dowels Source rwhouse.ru

Walling

The log house can be tied in several ways:

in a paw or bowl - for round logs;

on the root tenon - for rectangular section, a labor-intensive method, but provides high joint density.

The dowels used can be made of wood or metal. Standard sizes height 12-15 cm, thickness 2.5 cm, the holes for them should be several centimeters deeper. The laid row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is laid and the next crown of logs is placed on top, then the dowels are driven in. The insulation can be tow, felt or jute. The materials are fixed with a stapler. When several rows have been assembled, openings for windows and doors are cut out, and holes are made on the cuts to ensure air exchange. On the last two rows, grooves are made for the ceiling.

At a sufficient level of timber laying, openings for windows and doors are cut Source iskona.org

When assembling walls, one must take into account the fact that virtually all the beams will differ by millimeters from each other, which can negatively affect the result. Therefore, you can make a flat side only from the inside or outside. Sometimes you will come across a bent or twisted beam. It is recommended to cut the former into small pieces, and use the latter for various outbuildings on the site, bathhouses, or use for other purposes. A beam curved in one plane cannot be used for walls, expecting that it will level out under the weight of other materials - this will not happen. Curved timber can be laid into a wall only by leveling it horizontally and sequentially fixing it with dowels.

During operation, the assembly is constantly checked and the following parameters are monitored. If any deviations are detected, further work is stopped until the problems are resolved. Particular attention is paid to the height of the corners and verticality. In case of problems with verticality, the problem is eliminated until the beams are replaced. In this case, the height of the corners can be adjusted by spacers between the rims.

All corners in the house, vertical and horizontal, must be 90° Source cocinandote.com

The assembly of a log house can be carried out in two ways of laying the timber - with or without residue. In the first case, you can get a warmer and more stable house with the simplest possible construction scheme. However, the material will be consumed with a large amount of waste, increased installation costs and a smaller building area. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or cover with siding. In the second case, there will be no convex walls, so additional finishing and insulation can be carried out, and the total space inside increases. But it is very important to adhere to all the technology so that the house is not blown out.

Openings for doors and windows

The formation of a doorway begins with the 2nd crown, the height to the window is at least 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. “Rough” opening in preparation for creating the opening. The opening itself is prepared for installation after the timber shrinks. The assembly of the structure is accelerated; beams are installed in the openings to secure the walls.

Source krsk.au.ru

In the second option, they immediately prepare for installation, installing decks that connect the beams and act as slopes. If installation will be carried out metal-plastic windows, then you don’t have to place the decks. A vertical groove is made at the ends along the opening into which the rail is inserted. The slats/blocks are made 5-7 cm smaller than the opening so that it does not interfere with shrinkage.

Installation of windows and doors with a “rough” opening is carried out by cutting it to the appropriate dimensions. The joints are sealed using insulation; it must be nailed at an angle. Then the window frame is inserted, fixed to the deck with self-tapping screws, there is a gap on top for shrinkage, it is filled with soft insulation.

When installing a window frame, be sure to leave gaps for shrinkage Source patter.ru

Roof assembly

The beams are laid at a distance of 90-110 cm from each other, if the attic is used as a living space, then 15-20 cm beams are used, non-residential beams - 10-15 cm. Afterwards, fastening is carried out support posts and rafters. For the lathing, boards approximately 15 cm wide and a maximum thickness of 2 cm are used. The distance between the rafters depends entirely on the weight of the ceiling, the standard is 1.2 cm, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails. Maximum attention is paid to the fasteners of the support posts. Waterproofing is applied to the sheathing, and then the roofing covering.

Video description

Briefly, the process of building a house from timber is shown in this video:

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer turnkey construction of houses from profiled timber. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Conclusion

Laying profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare quality material and follow all construction technology. Only in this case can you get a good, warm and durable house, bathhouse or other building. Profiled timber is different favorable price and light weight, so it allows you to further save on the foundation.

For our country wooden buildings is not at all uncommon, therefore the advantages that they have natural materials, are familiar to many. But nothing stands still, and now the technology of construction from timber has made some changes in installation, compared to a log house.

Below we will talk about the types of timber, how to assemble it, and also watch the video in this article that corresponds to our topic.

We are building a house

As you probably know, timber can be either smooth or profiled in its configuration, and the technology for assembling a house from profiled timber is somewhat different than that of smooth timber. Also, a milled profile can be either made of solid wood or glued, and although this does not affect the assembly process itself, the commissioning of the finished structure is very different in terms of timing.

Material selection

• First of all, you need to decide on the material for building a house, and since we are talking about timber, then the appropriate requirements are imposed on it. Wood itself is a fairly rigid material and is not inferior in strength even to some metals; moreover, it is an excellent noise absorber, and therefore a sound insulator.
  The negative qualities of wood include its flammability, instability to water and tendency to deformation in the form of shrinkage of the building during the first time after construction.

• The most resistant to weather conditions are conifers wood, also this profile is less susceptible to rotting compared to others. In addition, the technology for assembling walls from timber involves two types of materials - solid wood and glued profiles.
  The first option when natural humidity after the construction of the house, it is intended to shrink within 10-12 months and only after that it can be finished and operated, while the second option does not shrink, therefore, further operation can be started immediately after installation.
• In addition, the technology for assembling a house from timber with your own hands depends on its profile. Thus, structures made of profiled timber are put together like a construction set, where all the tenons and grooves are provided and calculated for assembly, but for a smooth profile you need to arrange all the joints yourself, which, of course, takes much more time and requires a certain skill.

Loghouse assembly technique

• First of all, the flashing is installed, but this needs to be done on roofing felt in order to create a cut-off waterproofing. However, there may not be a base as such if the house is mounted on a pile or columnar foundation– in such cases, the crown beam will be laid on the grillage. But we'll talk about it below.

• During assembly, the technology of a log house may differ slightly, and you can see this in the drawn examples given above. For example, corner joints are often assembled “in an oblique paw” and tightened with a metal bracket, that is, it is simply driven into each joint from above.
  They cut a “frying pan” under the partitions or, as it is also called, “ swallowtail", but this is intended as an option, and not as a final and irrevocable assembly instruction.

Advice. Although it is believed that a gasket is not necessary on the frame crown, it is better to lay the groove with tow.
This will protect the connection from possible gaps due to chips.

Advice. You can skip some areas, since the compositions have no color.
To prevent this from happening, you can add a little stain to the solution, as can be seen in the photo above - this way you can clearly see the result of the coating.

• After installing the flashing technology wooden houses made of timber involves installing floor joists (in large rooms they should be doubled) and their fixation with wood grouse. The next step is to install the first crown.

• The beams are fastened together with wooden dowels, about a meter apart, driving them into pre-made holes in the form of nails. A temporary floor should be laid over the joists to make it convenient to move around the construction site during further work.
  Subsequent beams are mounted in the same way, that is, connecting to each other with dowels, joining at the corners “in an oblique paw”, and in the gaps (partitions) with a “frying pan” or “dovetail”.

• It is possible that you will not be able to line the entire wall with crowns, and you will have to build up the profile, then the method of connecting to an end butt with a ridge is used. This connection provides reliable connection and, in fact, two crowns are enough on the wall - the top and bottom rows, and all other rows can be laid from a prefabricated profile.
  For partitions, thinner timber is usually used, since it does not have a heat-insulating function.

Advice Wooden beam The thing made from a solid mass is quite heavy and lifting the profiles to the top of the wall when it grows is quite difficult.
Therefore, you can make such a simple device in the form of a ramp from the same material - this will make your work much easier.
Each beam is dragged up, with ropes tied to it on both sides.

Roof

• To arrange the roof, beams are first laid on the finished log house, and then a temporary flooring is made, exactly as it was done on the floor, so that it is safe to walk on it. This is practiced in order to be able to collect rafter legs directly at the installation site, without lifting finished design from the ground to the roof.

• It is best to assemble the rafters into a leg (at the top point) with bolts - the connection is reliable and easy to make, and for this use a beam of 150x50 mm or 200x50 mm. To temporarily fix the structure, you can use ordinary slats, 25 mm thick, simply nailing them stretched on both sides.
  The technology of timber houses determines the pitch between the rafters depending on the height of the ridge - from 40 to 100 cm (a small pitch is necessary for arranging an attic).

• The rafters cut from below are installed on the beam, nailed, and then tightened with a metal bracket. The entire structure needs to be checked with a level so that each leg stands strictly vertical, and then we screw on the ridge beam.
  Also, to complete the frame at this stage, posts and struts are screwed or nailed.

• The final touch to working with the frame will be its sheathing for roofing materials. For this, you can use both edged and unedged boards, 20 or 25 mm thick, but the thickness parameter must be kept to the same size.
  Roofing material is laid under the roof (most often it is corrugated sheeting or metal tiles) and this is done simultaneously with the finishing coating - it’s more convenient.

Types of foundations for a wooden house

• We promised to talk in general terms about the foundations that are used for the construction of wooden houses. Considering that the technology of timber walls allows the installation of lightweight structures, the base should not be powerful and therefore is often used for such purposes screw foundation. Installation occurs quite quickly, without preliminary drilling of wells.

• Also, piles can be wooden or bored, but most solid foundation- tape. On this basis they put big houses, maybe even several floors. In addition, with a strip foundation you can equip a basement or ground floor.

Log house made of profiled timber: shrinkage, do-it-yourself assembly. A house built from profiled timber is more than a roof over your head. This is a place of endless comfort, which has attractive appearance and excellent characteristics.

This is due to the fact that they only use natural materials without glue and harmful impurities. Thanks to this, the house will have an unusual atmosphere, and you will always feel comfortable in it.

Counts:

• Naturalness of the material.
• Low thermal conductivity - thanks to this, even in the cold season the rooms will always be warm.
• Reliability and durability.
• Uniform and rapid shrinkage of the material.

Construction of a log house

Key stages of construction from profiled timber logs

Do-it-yourself construction of log cabins is a very complex and labor-intensive process that cannot be accomplished without special skills. The first stage of work where difficulties are encountered is the choice of material. The profiled bursa must have a cross-section of at least 200 mm. But if you are building a 7*7 log house, which will be used only in the summer, you can take material with a smaller cross-section.

Don't forget that when self-assembly Shrinkage should be taken into account, which will be from 10 to 15 cm. We will divide the process of assembling a log house from profiled 7*7 into five parts.

Process:

1. Drawing up a diagram, design.
2. Filling.
3. work.
4. and external works.

Main processes

We build walls

Creating and constructing walls is a very important process that should be carried out with utmost care. We lay out the rows of timber very carefully. Each subsequent one must be fastened with the previous dowel. Thanks to this action, the beam will not move to the side. To install the dowels, you will need to drill holes that will be 40 mm in diameter. This is an ideal indicator for the dowels to easily fit into the hole.

Important: If you set out to build a house for year-round residence, do not forget about the seal. To do this, you will need to cut out a protrusion in one of the beams, and cut out a groove with similar dimensions in the other. Layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and tenons. Such a structure will make general design more reliable and stronger. You cannot make mistakes in installation, as you will have to disassemble everything and start over.

If the size of a log house made of profiled timber is larger than 7*7, at least one partition should be installed on the first floor. This will be a kind of support for the flooring on the second floor. Finally, when building the walls, you will need to cut out the window openings. Determine the location for the windows and cut out the openings. When drying the material, it is important that they are well ventilated. After shrinking the profiled frame, you can begin installing windows.

Last work when assembling the log house

This is the final stage of assembly. You only need to insulate the building and do the finishing, as well as roofing work. Once everything is done, construction will be officially considered complete. You can use mineral wool/glass wool as a material. For interior decoration or will work perfectly, but the first option will be much better.

Ready-made timber frame - order or make it yourself?

A log house made of profiled timber is an excellent structure with a huge list of advantages. In order for it not to lose its wonderful qualities, it is recommended to order or buy finished building, since when constructing it yourself, many errors and problems arise, due to which the final version of the home will not be comfortable.

When assembling it yourself, many questions will certainly arise, the answer to which not even every specialist will give. Many people, due to lack of experience, make serious mistakes, and this is a consequence of the error and a violation of the integrity of the structure as a whole. In this case, the good old saying works: “The miser pays twice,” since you have to redo everything, hire a specialist and purchase additional material. To avoid such mistakes, it is common sense to order or buy a ready-made log house from a reputable company.

Ordering and purchasing - advantages and disadvantages

It is much easier to order a kit or buy a log house from a specialized company than to build a house yourself. This is due to the following reasons:

Well, the main advantage of ordering a log house from profiled timber is savings. Indeed, it will be much cheaper for you to buy a ready-made structure or place an order.

If you want to do the construction yourself, it will cost you more for several reasons:

• The material will be purchased from specialized companies. But these same companies purchase timber at a cost several times lower than what they sell.
• Material consumption. Do-it-yourself construction has never been without mistakes. A groove that you cut incorrectly or something else will lead to the purchase of new material. Experienced specialists are unlikely to make such mistakes.
• It is impossible to assemble a log house alone or together, so you will have to hire a team. The handymen who will help you will also have to pay.

Such costs usually exceed the payment for ordering the same log from the company.

Additional advantages when ordering a log house made of profiled timber

The advantages mentioned above are not the last on the list. When ordering or purchasing a ready-made log house, you will save effort and time. Even if you succeed with the materials (which is unlikely), it will take you a lot of time to assemble, and you will also have to wait for the log house made of profiled timber to shrink. Contact the company - great option if you want to get a house in as soon as possible, and you want it to meet all quality parameters.

You will also not be able to engage in the construction of winter period. But this is not an obstacle for companies that even in winter collect production workshops gables, walls and partitions. Afterwards, they leave it to shrink and manage to complete both the interior and exterior decoration by the beginning of spring.

Construction from laminated timber has the following advantages:

1. Material of manufacture – winter forest, and it has a dense structure.
2. , built in winter time, has the advantage of freezing moisture from the walls.
3. This will ventilate it much better, which will ensure good shrinkage.

Price

The price for constructing a log house will depend on many factors, which include the quantity and quality of the timber, as well as its cross-section and complexity of construction.

Prices are approximate.

Results

Do not forget that you should order kits only from well-known and time-tested companies. Do not forget that different companies have different prices for construction. So, an order from a popular company will be much more expensive than from a less popular company, but the quality of the work will be the same.

Do not forget, that when choosing a log house, you should carefully examine it and notice all the details. Before purchasing, study all the characteristics and evaluate the quality. Ready product can be placed and finishing work can begin immediately.

The topic of this article is the installation of a house made of timber. In it we will not delve into the intricacies of individual stages of construction: our goal is to describe the order of the main work and give general recommendations by choosing one solution or another.

Construction is in full swing. Material: profiled timber.

Foundation

Taking into account the relatively low weight of log houses, lightweight and inexpensive types of foundations are usually used during their construction:

• Columnar: pillars made of brick or ceramic blocks are buried 30-50 centimeters.
• Tape shallow: a continuous reinforced concrete strip is laid at the same depth.

An important point: for building sizes over 6x6 meters ( standard length timber - exactly 6 meters) floor beams need additional support, which is usually one of the internal partitions. Accordingly, the foundation is laid not only under external walls, but also under loaded partitions or columns.

Antiseptic protection is mandatory; The preferred species is larch. The instructions are due to the fact that it is the grillage that is most susceptible to rotting.

Waterproofing is required between the tree and the foundation. A typical solution is two layers of roofing material.

On a strip foundation that does not require the construction of a grillage, the lower frame is laid first - again, preferably made of larch. And here, in most cases, timber of the same cross-section from which the walls will be assembled is used. The connection method in the corners is half-tree.
For strip foundation You can calculate materials using a calculator:

Lags

For logs (they are also floor beams), a beam with a section of 100x150 millimeters is used. Since the direction of the load is from top to bottom, the beam cuts into the frame in a vertical position. Step - 0.9 - 1 meter.

On side surfaces The lag along the lower edge is filled with a mounting block with a section of 30x30 - 40x40 millimeters. In the future, a subfloor will be laid on it - the basis for laying insulation.

Walls

How to install a log frame with your own hands?

The timber (straight or profiled) is laid with jute and laid in such a way that the ends at the corners are staggered. Jute provides sealing of joints, compensating for uneven shrinkage of wood and preventing air from blowing through the walls.

Useful: from the point of view of protection against blowing, installation of profiled timber is preferable. The grooves and ridges in it will protect against drafts no less reliably than the seal. In addition, wood moisture content of no more than 20 percent is preferable: in this case, the walls are not at risk of deformation and cracks.

The ideal option is to install a house made of laminated veneer lumber. This will allow you to avoid a long break for the walls to shrink before finishing.

What material is used for dowels?

1. Galvanized steel rods. The zinc coating will protect the steel from rust; however, moisture will condense on the surface of the dowel in the thickness of the wood. When dismantling old log houses, builders often note that the wood of the log house rots around the steel dowels.

1. A healthier option is solid wood, without cross-layers and knots.. The thickness of the dowel is 25-30 millimeters; Birch is used more often than other species. Of course, antiseptic impregnation is highly desirable.

Angles

The connection of the crowns in the corners is much more vulnerable to shrinkage, displacement and deformation of the wood.

Two qualities are required from corners:

1. Strength. The crown should not separate or move even under moderate seismic activity.
2. Windproof, the notorious protection from drafts. Please note: installing a house from low-humidity profiled timber allows you to forget about this problem only on straight sections of walls. Vertical seams can still leak.

To ensure that you forget about the problem of drafts, the so-called connection “ warm corner"(otherwise - connection "to the root tenon"):

• The end of one of the beams is processed in such a way that a tenon with a width of 1/4 to 1/2 the width of the material and the same length remains on it.
• A slightly wider (about 1 mm) groove is selected for the tenon on the side surface of the adjacent beam. The gap is needed for sealing.

Of course, this is not the only type of corner joint; however, with low complexity, it provides sufficient compaction coupled with reliable fixation of the crown.

Important: the angle must be fixed with dowels, regardless of their location on straight sections of the walls.

Direct connections

If the length of the walls longer solid timber, we will have to connect it not only in the corners, but also on the straight section.

How to do it?

• Most reliable option- this is the same connection “on the root tenon”. It is clear that in this case the groove is selected at the end of one of the connecting beams.
• A half-tree connection is somewhat simpler. Since it should not be blown through, the joint is located vertically; in this case, the mutual displacement of the crown sections is prevented by the dowels.

In both options, the connections from crown to crown are made offset, so that the two joints are nowhere located directly above each other.

Floor

1. First, a subfloor is laid from boards 20-25 millimeters thick. It is supported by a mounting beam that we pre-filled onto the side surfaces of the beams.
2. The next stage is laying a vapor barrier. It will protect the subfloor boards from rotting, and at the same time prevent the insulation from crumbling between them.
3. The insulation itself is laid on the vapor barrier - 100 millimeters of mineral wool.
4. The wool is protected from above with waterproofing. A layer of polyethylene is quite suitable.
5. A tongue-and-groove board 36 millimeters thick is laid on top of the beams. Of course, nothing prevents you from replacing it with plywood or OSB; in this case, it will be necessary to lay lags across the beams in increments of no more than 40 cm.

Ceilings and partitions

The height of the first floor from the floor level can be up to 3.5 meters; Usually, however, builders limit themselves to a more modest height. It is clear that the higher the ceiling, the higher the price square meter. A reasonable minimum is 2.4 meters.

Ceiling beams are laid directly on the upper crown, which in our case performs the function of a mauerlat. They can be cut in with fixation with dowels or fastened with galvanized plates and self-tapping screws.

If the length is more than 6 meters, the beams rest on internal partition, performed in this case from timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. Let us remind you that it should rest not just on the floor beams, but on the piles, pillars or foundation strip located underneath them.

If frame partitions can be attached to external walls screws, then the timber should be cut into them to a depth of about 5 cm.

If the project provides for gables made of timber, they are erected after laying the ceiling beams.

Roof

Material to create rafter system— timber with a section of 50x100 millimeters. The pitch between the rafters is 0.7 - 1 meter. In general, the lower the roof slope, the smaller the pitch: in this option the snow load will increase.

The most popular installation of timber houses with two types of roofs:

• Broken line. With her are the side walls of the second, attic floor can be made vertical.
• Straight gable. The cross-section of the attic will be triangular, which will greatly limit its usable area.

Used as roof sheathing unedged board 40 mm thick. If as roofing material ondulin or bitumen shingles, a solid shield is assembled; in this case, it is more advisable to use OSB or plywood. A layer of waterproofing film must be laid under the roof.

Insulation and finishing

• The floor of the attic is covered with the already familiar tongue and groove board.
• Roof insulation is a cake made from the insulation itself, vapor barrier and finishing material. Popular as the latter wooden lining and drywall.
• The attic and first floor openings are cashed after the windows and doors are installed.
• Varnishes or varnishes are used as a finishing coating. water-dispersion paints. Enamels are undesirable because they deprive wood of one of its main advantages - vapor permeability.

Conclusion

Of course, our acquaintance with the construction procedure is somewhat superficial (see also article). Watch the video in this article, which shows the information discussed more clearly.

Good luck in construction!