How to fasten a wooden block to a metal pipe. Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal posts: design features

Under reliable protection

So that wooden structures and under open air maintained their stability for a long time, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.

Rain and wind won't matter!

As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur unnoticed. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners’ heads. Not only that - rotten wood and rusty metal parts Over time, they can become a threat to the stability of the entire structure.

Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from exposure to moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying special coatings to steel parts. Some of them, such as chromium, combine with steel chemical reaction, others form a film on the surface of the metal, including from a special powder.

When working with wood, in addition to weatherproof impregnation, the most the best remedy from rotting is constructive protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.

Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.

For dark types of wood, blackened screws can also be used, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.

Screws from of stainless steel – the best choice when constructing a structure that will be located in the open air.

Formatted screws(1) are used primarily for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, you use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture and become visible through the paint layer. But with the blacks, phosphated screws this won't happen. Chrome/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by its yellowish color. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Stainless steel screws and bolts(4) – twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.

The phrase “high-quality steel” does not say anything about the stability of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. Only through special processing or the addition of other metals does steel become corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods for protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.

Degree anti-corrosion protection, which each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one or another method. High-quality stainless steel fasteners are the most expensive, but they certainly won’t have any problems with corrosion.

Most a budget option- parts made of galvanized steel. But if you want to prevent these parts from rusting, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. Chrome plating is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.

1. Chrome plated

When chrome plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are dipped in chromic acid, as a result of which a chrome film is formed on the products. She gives very good protection from corrosion of screws and other fasteners, which remains, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products color scheme well suited to wood used outdoors.

2. Galvanized

When galvanizing steel becomes protective layer made of zinc. During hot-dip galvanizing, parts are immersed in a bath of zinc heated to +450°C. When galvanizing, zinc is applied to the part.

in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.

3. Stainless steel

High-quality stainless steel refers to types of steel that, due to the addition of chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium, become completely resistant to corrosion under normal atmospheric influences. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, which is why some manufacturers subject their fasteners special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that products

made of stainless steel are not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high-alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance of stainless steel, regular washing of metal products is required. warm water with surfactants.

4. Powder coated

Before applying the powder-varnish coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in an oven at temperatures above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.

This way the supports will last a long time!

Drive-in bases: they do not require concrete

When erecting wooden structures that will have to be located in the open air, it is very important that the wood does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pier bases are the easiest and most inexpensive means of installing piers stably and keeping them dry. On such supports you can install a lightweight structure made of wood or using frame technology.

When driving bases into the ground, you should use special tools: a plastic mallet and a plastic plug inserted inside the cartridge - this is where the blows should be struck. If you hit metal directly with an ordinary hammer, you can damage it. top part products.

For optimal protection against moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with a protective glaze. The holes drilled for fastening must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. Protective covering must be completely dry before installation can begin.

Here are two types of anchors for wooden supports, installed on concrete foundation and protected from moisture. H-shaped anchor suitable for supports various sizes. The lower third of the anchor is filled with concrete. Those who find anchoring with a classic U-shaped anchor too noticeable can install the supports with virtually invisible anchors with a support shoe. A notch is made in the middle of the support, holes for fastening bolts are marked in the support, the support is put on the central panel of the anchor and secured with bolts. Then the support is concreted.

Supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be lightly dug up, cut down, and the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a block of suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability; it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.

PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES

Caps

To rainwater does not damage the tree, special caps are placed on top of the support, the top is sawed off at an angle or rounded off.

This will make your floors last longer.

Structural protection of wood is especially important when installing floors on outdoor terraces.

It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope in one direction - this way the water will drain from the terrace by itself.

The other two are simple, but effective techniques We illustrated with drawings.

Correct: the head of the screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hard wood, so you should always pre-drill holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is dented. In the first case, you can get injured by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the self-tapping screw and water collects.

A simple pommel made of galvanized steel can be bought for 140 rubles. in a construction supermarket.

The pommel, made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, costs almost 400 rubles.

Plastic tops are intended for children's furniture or playground structures. They protect the tree from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rub.

The upper part of the support without a top needs to be either rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.

You can purchase a pole top made of wood.

Hello, I am interested in the issue of installing wooden lining on a metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other mounting methods (profile for GP)?

Dmitry, Ukraine.

Hello, Dmitry from Ukraine!

You must have some kind of non-standard situation if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.

It’s clear when a wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal made of galvanized or aluminum) in the form of slats. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.

A metal profile of the GP type (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet whose end resembles a trapezoidal contour with wide flanges and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or the GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has small width mushrooms and a large bottom width.

Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used for fencing the facade surfaces of buildings, indoors, and sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for roofing.

If you would like to attach wooden lining To metal profile, it is clear that it is impossible to do this with nails, since, having pierced the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is capable of piercing galvanized steel standard thickness. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But, with rare exceptions, they don’t fasten the lining like this.

Theoretically, it is possible to sew the lining onto the GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably with metal screws, which have a finer knurling (pitch) of thread. Such screws will hold more firmly, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws are either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the screw, and not separately). Roofing screws should be used with caution, as they can turn the lining with their self-tapping edges.

But this is a labor-intensive method; more often they use a method where they are first mounted on a metal profile wooden plank or a block with several screws, and then the lining itself is nailed directly to this bar-bar. This will make your life easier, since you won’t have to fasten each panel with screws directly to the metal.

/If the lining will be exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much preferable to nails, which can be torn out when wet boards warp./

Two more points. Don't forget about relative position lining and metal profiles. The lining must be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly hit the fasteners on the top of the profile waves, and not just anywhere. /If you first attach the wooden planks-bars, which were discussed above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction./

In addition, it is always very desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. This can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films for similar purposes.

Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out from the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing is that if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be covered.

And lastly, do not forget that you need to balance your efforts when tightening screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures to prevent deflections of the profile sheets from the applied forces.

This is my take on your question.

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as protection from stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a fencing structure - brick, concrete and hardware, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wood; today, a wooden fence is installed on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

Wood is always in demand because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

Naturalness.
Decorative.
Aesthetics.
Unique color and texture.
Low cost compared to fencing made from other materials.
Excellent compatibility with architectural style any building.
Ease of construction.
Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood also has disadvantages, namely its relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptics for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the service life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of metal support products include:

Simplicity of installation work.
Reliability and durability of the design.
Strength.
Resistance against static and dynamic loads.
Possibility to use any fixation method.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if a fence is used, the price will increase significantly, but if you consider that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not such.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are available in different sections:

Square. Such products are easy to install in sections and are characterized by reliable connections. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, side dimensions - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
Round. If used with round the pipe is metal, the price of the supports will be slightly lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a round cross-section provides the opportunity to select products required thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
Rectangular. From square section These products are distinguished only by their shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order for it to last for decades, it is necessary to protect not only the base material, but also the metal fencing elements. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be placed on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Site marking

Before you begin making the fence, you need to make markings. To do this, first, where you plan to make a wooden fence on metal posts, you need to remove bushes, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the soil surface. Only now the markings are being made. You need to do the following:

Drive the pegs into extreme points future fencing.
Stretch a string between them.
Mark the places where fence supports will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal posts with your own hands, the cheapest option is to drive the pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. To do the job, two people are needed: one hammers, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not hammer the pipes, but dig them in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and compact the earth well.

The following installation options are more labor-intensive, but also more reliable:

Concreting
Mounting on a concrete plinth.
Usage screw piles. For complex ones too great option solutions to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

What’s noteworthy is that the rules listed below are suitable for installing supports made of different materials:

It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their reliable fixation in the soil. After this, so that the pillars do not become loose over time, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete them. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has hardened.
They begin work by installing the outermost corner piles, carefully aligning them in height. Subsequent pillars are installed at the same level as the previous one. To avoid any undesirable changes, you can, to maintain the height indicator, dig in slats instead of the outer pillars, stretch string between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on the desired height mark.

How the posts should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal posts should be installed so that the supports rise several centimeters above the picket fence.
To prevent the wind from twisting the fence on rocky, sandy and non-heaving soils, it is necessary to bury the supports no less than half the height of the fence.
Widening the bottom end of the post will increase its strength and durability. The welded cross will serve as such an extension.
After all the pillars have been installed, you can concrete mortar Make small cones at their base to drain water.

Installation of a picket fence

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - purlins - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the fastening first and only then install the posts. But then you also need to make sure that all the fasteners are on the same level and create a single line; this is the only way to attach the purlins without any problems.

Depending on what material the cross beams are made of - wood or a metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal posts using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastening, and wood products are fixed using bolts or self-tapping screws. If the cross beams are made of wood, then they are fixed to the fastening with bolts, but the picket fence is fastened with ordinary nails. The main thing is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either tightly or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. In this case, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve for a much longer period of time.

All that remains is to make and install the wicket and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated sheets, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal posts goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also all elements of the structure.

Construction is difficult process which requires a lot of knowledge and skills. And if a person was faced with the task of attaching wooden beam to metal, then for this it is important to find out the necessary information. Because this work process is extremely specific and requires at least minimal skill, and even better if the work is done not alone, but with four hands.

Where to start and what to do

To begin with, it is worth deciding on the possible thickness of the metal itself, and selecting it according to its size. necessary tools. It is important to choose high-quality and durable screws, the thickness of which will directly depend on the type of metal sheet. Everything should be as harmonious and correctly selected as possible. The size of the beam in this case does not play too big a role. In order to attach the beam to the metal, in metal sheet or in any other form, you need to drill the necessary hole that will fit the beam. And after that, install the tree to the required height or correct position and then begin installing the screws. Regarding screws, you shouldn’t feel sorry for them, because this process they are a guarantee of the reliability and strength of the entire structure. If you suddenly lose If you are trying to install wood into slate together with metal, for example, then the screws should be replaced with self-tapping screws of the greatest length and volume. Since the work required is quite painstaking, and the timber will have to be held while screwing in the screws, it is worth using the services of some assistant. Because it is almost impossible to cope with this task alone. With four hands everything will go much faster and with a full guarantee of quality.

Is it worth preparing the tree?

If installing wood into metal is necessary for street design, then the tree must be prepared and lubricated with a special solution to ensure that the tree is dry and not exposed to moisture. This way you can ensure that the structure stands for a long time and reliably, and delights you with its beautiful appearance. The type of wood when working with metal does not have special knowledge, the main thing is to choose perfect option according to size and purpose of use.

You need to fasten the corrugated sheet with self-tapping screws (to metal surfaces or wooden frame) and rivets (sheet to sheet).

To install a profiled sheet, in most cases a frame is made. The structure is made of metal profiled pipe (square, rectangle), wooden slats, plasterboard profile, regular corner. Sometimes they make wall cladding by mounting the sheets directly to the brick or stone.

How and with what in each specific case to fix the corrugated sheet?

Self-tapping screws (self-tapping) for metal with a metal washer and rubber seal

A self-tapping screw (commonly a self-tapping screw) is made in the form of a rod with a tip resembling a drill, a triangular thread and a head for a wrench or a screwdriver. In addition to screws with a drill tip, screws with a sharp tip are produced. To fasten the corrugated sheet, complete with a screw, use a press washer and a rubber sealing gasket.

We apply:

for attaching corrugated sheets to metal surfaces;
with steel thickness up to 12.5 mm;
without pre-drilling holes;
for installation, for cladding facades, gables, making gates, wickets, etc.

We do not use:

for fastening sheets to tool and high-carbon steels;
for binding metal profiled sheets together;
for attaching to wooden structures;
for fastening to metal less than 1 mm thick.

How do we determine quality?

When purchasing, we require a quality certificate that reflects the characteristics according to the DIN standard, including:

For fastening to a frame with a thickness of 2.32 mm, we use products for drill No. 1, with a diameter of 4.8 mm, pitch 2.12. For metal 5.5 mm drill No. 3, 8.5 mm - No. 4, 12.5 mm - No. 5. Thread pitch 1.8. Self-tapping screws large diameters must be coated with zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns.

We select the length of the self-tapping screws depending on the purpose. To attach the profiled sheet to the lower wave, choose a size larger than the materials being joined by 3mm. When screwed into the upper wave, for example, to attach skates, the length increases by the height of the profile.

The industry produces 3 types of self-tapping screws according to the shape of the head:

hexagonal;
cruciform;
anti-vandal.

For conventional installation It is easier to work with a hexagonal head shape. We use anti-vandal screws for fences and cladding, the removal of which outside will provide free access to the premises or territory. Installation of products is done with a special tool.

Important nuances when attaching corrugated sheets with self-tapping screws:

We tighten the screws with a washer and a rubber gasket strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet.
According to the characteristics, the screws are suggested to be screwed in at 2500 rpm, but it is difficult to calculate the force by touch. Tighten the screws so as not to squeeze the rubber washer. A flattened seal will crack over time and will not create a tight seal.
We do not use rubber seals where monolithic fastening is required.
In places where unauthorized access to fasteners is possible, we use anti-vandal screws or use self-tapping screws with a notch that prevents arbitrary unscrewing.

How to attach profiled sheets to a wooden frame?

For roofs mounted on wooden sheathing, there is no alternative to traditional metal screws. Select screws with the largest thread pitch. The larger this parameter, the more reliable the mount.

Vertically located profiled sheets that do not require a hermetic fastening, in order to save money, are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws with a monolithic press washer. In everyday life it is an ordinary self-tapping screw with a wide head. For screwing, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted into the screwdriver.

If the sheathing is made of DVL, chipboard, etc., we use screws with double-threaded threads. For the roof, we make a set of washers and cuffs ourselves, selecting the diameter of the screw.

Use standard wood screws, including those intended for fastening plasterboard sheets. This fastener has a countersunk head and, when screwed in, will damage the surface of the corrugated sheet.
Use screws with a drill tip. Wood does not require drilling, a sharp self-tapping screw is screwed in more securely, and the passage through corrugated sheets makes it acceptable for a large amount of work.

Is it possible to attach corrugated sheeting to shell rock (limestone, brick)?

We mount the sheets directly to the wall made of stone or brick using dowels and anchors. To install, pre-drill holes in the metal. We select fastener heads with a monolithic wide washer. The shape of a plastic insert with a shimmer that acts as a seal. We make the hole in the corrugated sheet 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the insert.

For quick installation use dowels with impact screws. They differ from traditional screws and screws in the shape of the thread. Disadvantage: if struck, the surface of the sheet can be damaged.
Do not attach sheets to surfaces with protrusions or uneven surfaces.

How to connect sheets of profiled metal to each other?

The standard thickness of profiled iron is 0.4 mm. It is unreliable to connect two sheets using self-tapping screws, for example at an overlap, since the fastening is fragile and depends on the thread pitch.

To solve the problem we use rivets. The fastener consists of two parts, which are made of aluminum. Rivets are installed in pre-prepared holes and do not require access to back side. For installation we use a rivet device. In places where required hidden installation rivets, we use a hole punch (special pliers holders that pierce the corrugated sheet from the end of the wave).

Rivets can be used as fasteners for installing roofing, fence cladding, etc. The disadvantage is labor intensity. A through hole must be drilled for each rivet.

Other methods of installing corrugated sheets

Screw and bolt connection

The corrugated sheet is attached to metal surfaces using screws, for example, when used as casings on machines, for fastening to special steels. We drill holes in the sheet and the base on which installation is taking place, cut the threads and install.

A bolted connection is used in the same way, but drilling is required for fastening through holes both in the sheet and in the material to which the installation is taking place. Bolts are used to connect corrugated sheets to metal and wooden frames, preventing vandalism and unauthorized access.

Adhesive base

For internal lining smooth walls Profiled sheets can be installed with glue. As a binding element, use metal putty mixed with PVA glue. The sheets are pressed to the base and kept until plasticized. adhesive composition. In this embodiment, corrugated sheeting does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves for decorative purposes.
We have you and a set of screws for it.