When can you spray fruit trees against pests? Spring spraying of the orchard

Every summer resident knows how important it is to seasonally treat fruit crops against diseases and pests. It is especially important to do this in the spring. Such an event can prevent the invasion of harmful insects, prevent the appearance of pathogenic microbes, which in turn ensures good yield. Therefore, many gardeners are interested in the question of when to spray fruit trees against pests.

When to treat

Treatment and preventive work should begin in early spring.

• When warm, dry weather sets in, the air temperature will be at least 6°C (late March - early April, but depends on the region, better after the snow has melted). At this time, insect pests begin to wake up and pathogens of fungal infections (scab, rot, moniliosis) begin to spread.
• It is necessary to clear the garden of remaining leaves and grass before irrigating fruit trees and bushes. To do this, you should remove winter covering materials, trim off diseased, damaged, old branches, and burn all plant debris. You also need to dig up the tree trunks and whiten the trunks and skeletal branches.
• Trees older than 6 years are cleared of ancient bark, moss, and lichen. Such manipulations allow plants to breathe better, stimulate the appearance of new shoots, and increase their regenerative functions.
• After preparatory activities begin spring processing of trees and shrubs.

The procedures are carried out in several stages:

• until the buds swell;
• before the plants begin to flower (to prevent the inflorescences from dying, the concentration of the drugs is made weak);
• The last spraying is carried out at the end of May, after the trees stop blooming and fruits begin to set. Therefore, the answer to the question of what can be used to spray trees against pests during the flowering period is obvious - nothing.

Important! During the flowering of the garden, it is unacceptable to use insecticides and fungicides. You can take biological substances that will stimulate the formation of fruits or use folk ways. Usually the drug ovary is used.

Spraying fruit trees against pests

Processing means

Each gardener chooses his own methods of protecting the garden. Today it is not difficult, because there are a large number of disinfectants and medicinal preparations suitable for different periods.

Note! All solutions must be prepared before use, otherwise they can damage plants while remaining harmless to insects.

How to spray trees and shrubs against pests in spring? Ready-made store-bought or folk remedies are suitable.

Chemical compositions

Such substances are considered the most effective because:

• act quickly;
• perfectly soluble in water;
• the effect lasts for a long time;
• each substance has its own decomposition period;
• can be used at low temperatures: from 5°C.

Thus, it is better to carry out the first treatments with them.

Among all the variety that can be used to treat fruit trees in early spring against diseases and pests, the most common are:

Diesel fuel

It must be used at a certain time and extremely carefully, otherwise you can destroy the plants. Be sure to wear gloves, closed clothing, and a respirator.

They begin to spray trees when there is still snow left in some places and there are no buds on the branches. In autumn, it is recommended to carry out the procedure after all the leaves have fallen and the first frosts occur.

Diesel fuel

Such a petroleum product cannot be used in its pure form. It should be diluted in large quantities water, adding any other substances that neutralize the harmful effects of diesel fuel.

You can prepare such a mixture. Its concentration will be no more than 50%:

• solarium - 10 parts;
• water - 9 parts;
• laundry soap, grated - 1 part.

Copper sulfate

It is used no more than 2 times a year. The first spraying is done in early spring before the buds appear, otherwise all the young foliage may die.

The product is also used if there are cracks in the trees that need to be disinfected.

Important! Plants need to be sprayed again at the end of October. This will protect fruit crops from scab, phylostecosis, moniliosis, clusteroporosis, and curl.

A young tree (no more than 6 years old) requires 2 liters of the mixture, an adult specimen - 10 liters. Prepare the following composition for primary treatment: copper sulfate, lime (0.3 kg per 10 liters of water). Mix everything together, leave for 48 hours. Then boil for 45 minutes, filter, add 1 bucket of water.

Copper sulfate

The next irrigation will require the same substances, only in reduced quantities (0.1 kg per 10 liters of water). Repeat all manipulations according to the previous scheme.

inkstone

If the garden is filled with old fruit trees, then spraying is carried out in early spring, as well as late in autumn (300 g per 10 liters of water). The substance successfully fights cytosporosis, septosporosis, black cancer, evil harmful insects, mosses, lichens. Helps increase fruit yield and enriches plants with iron.

Bordeaux liquid

It is used when there are unopened buds on the branches. Make a solution: dry vitriol (50 g), lime (0.2 kg), water (1 bucket). All ingredients are mixed and the trees are pollinated.

Bordeaux liquid

Preparation 30

Experienced summer residents advise spraying trees with a solution in early spring or late autumn (0.2 liters of substance per 10 liters of water). It will help get rid of aphids, whiteflies, leaf rollers, mites and other insects that overwinter in the bark of trees.

Note! Substance 30 is very effective; it can be used no more than once in 3 seasons.

Urea

It is used to treat trunks and branches 1 week after flowering ends. fruit crops, as well as in the pre-winter period.

To spray trees in the spring you should take urea (0.5 kg), copper sulfate (1 Matchbox), water (10 l).

The autumn composition is made after the plants have shed half of their leaves (0.25 kg of substance per 10 liters of water). But you can treat trees when the leaves have completely fallen. Then the solution is made more saturated (8%). In this case, both the plant and the soil are irrigated. In addition, the product will fertilize the soil.

Urea

Separately, it is worth noting the old proven means.

• Spark (10 ml per 1 liter of water). Apply after the plants have flowered. The product protects the garden from sucking and gnawing insects, moths, leaf rollers, cutworms, sawflies, and other pests.
• Karbofos (90 g per 10 liters of water - for fruit trees and 70 g - berry bushes) will protect plants from caterpillars, aphids, mites, weevils, moths, and scale insects. Spray the first time when the buds open, the second time before flowering.

Important! Plants should be processed dry sunny weather. Rain will wash away all the substances, and the work will be done in vain.

Biological control measures

IN Lately These methods of controlling pests and diseases have become increasingly popular. They have a number of advantages:

• do not accumulate in soil or fruits;
• do not burn plants;
• they can be used in small quantities.

Flaws:

• act slowly;
• used at temperatures above 10°C.

The most famous of them:

• trichodermin is used during the period of bud emergence (effectively fights scab, various types rot);
• pentaphage protects against holey spotting and bacterial cancer;
• planriz vs powdery mildew, brown rust, lepidopteran pests;
• phytodoctor prevents late blight, fusarium, and root rot;
• phytosporin M suppresses fungal and bacterial infections;
• gaupsin is a universal drug against diseases and insects;
• Mikosan forms a thin film on trees against pathogenic microorganisms.

Folk remedies

Many owners summer cottages use ecological methods to protect fruit crops. They can be used simultaneously with chemicals (at any time). They use:

• various types of weeds (celandine, wormwood);
• spicy herbs: dill, thyme, horseradish, fennel;
• pine needles;
• tomato, potato tops;
• chamomile, nettle;
• salt, mustard powder;
• garlic, hot pepper.

Here are some recipes.

• Wormwood (400 g per 10 liters of water). Boil for 30 minutes, add 40 g of green or laundry soap, and then spray the trees.
• Chamomile infusion (200 g per 1 liter of water). Leave for 10 - 12 hours, and then drain the resulting solution. Pour the remaining herbal mass into 5 liters of water and leave for another 13 hours. Combine both compositions together and spray the crown.
• Hot pepper. Prepare an infusion (1 kg of fruit per 10 liters of water). Leave for 48 hours. The resulting mass is boiled for 1 hour, cooled and poured into containers with tight lids. Use as needed throughout the season. Before irrigation, add laundry soap (80 g per 1 bucket of water).
• Tansy. Herbal powder (0.7 kg per 10 liters of boiling water) is infused for 4 days, then boiled for 15 minutes, filtered and added to 1 bucket of water. Fruit plantings are treated several times a season.

Treatment in summer and autumn

Fruit trees must be treated throughout the growing season. Therefore, when summer comes, you need to continue pest control. You should not use chemicals during this period. It is better to use fishing belts, liquid sweet baits, where insects will fly. You also need to collect carrion.

With the arrival of autumn gardening work continue. After leaf fall, fallen leaves are removed, damaged branches are cut, hunting belts are removed, trunk circles are dug up, trunks and skeletal branches are whitened. They also get rid of dead bark, burn plant debris and pest nests. Trees are treated with the same preparations as in the spring.

Treatment of trees should be carried out in early spring, then when the fruits have formed. In the summer, when pest activity is at its peak outside, and of course, after you have harvested the entire crop and the leaves have fallen.

This procedure was carried out year after year and gardeners formed their own spraying calendar, in which you can see when and with what means it is worth spraying the trees. Summer residents experimented for many years and, based on the information collected from different gardeners, a certain sequence was established.

And in March, gardeners most often fight microorganisms, and in April they protect the buds of fruit trees from fungal diseases. Then, already in March, all your strength can be devoted to protecting against other diseases and pests. But this should be done only when all the trees have already bloomed.

How to spray

Many beginners believe that the treatment is a very easy procedure and only requires a special solution and a pump for spraying trees. And they are wrong. Here full list tools you will need:

• piston type pump or specialized compressor;
• gauze bandage, which needs to be made multi-layered or take a respiratory mask;
• latex gloves;
• preparations for spraying;
• protective glasses.

Before you begin the procedure of spraying fruit trees, you need to carefully inspect the entire tree. If during inspection you find lichen and moss, then you should carefully remove it using metal brush. Inspect the spraying apparatus in advance. For example, its hose may be short in order to process the upper branches. Therefore, it needs to be extended or a stepladder installed in advance. It is necessary to process trees completely, not only in easily accessible places, since partial processing will not give you any result.

As for the spraying agent, it must be uniform. If it is poorly mixed with water and poured into the apparatus, then one part of the plants can be treated with water, and the second with an active substance, which will lead to the death of the entire tree. Therefore, during the procedure you need to periodically shake the solution.

Here is the sequence of the procedure:

• put on equipment: eye mask and respiratory mask;
• Apply the product you need according to schedule evenly onto the branches, leaves and post. The tip of the device should be kept at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from the object. This way the solution will fall like dew and fill all hard-to-reach places;
• the drug must be delivered to back side each leaf;
• After the procedure is completed, carefully and thoroughly rinse the device with all its parts. Don't forget to take care of yourself. Wash your hands and face with soap and rinse your mouth.

It is recommended to treat not only one tree, but nearby plants too. This way you will create the maximum effectiveness of a particular drug in the garden. This is especially true for the procedure for exterminating insects, because they can move to another tree and harm it.

Copper sulfate

Now you should find out everything about the preparations with which you are going to treat the trees. One of them is copper sulfate. Trees are sprayed with this preparation twice during the entire summer season. The first time is in early spring, before the first buds appear on the trees. This is done so that the solution does not harm young leaves. And the second time is used if there are wounds on the tree that require disinfection.

Most often, the drug is used for spraying pear, apple and plum trees in the first month of spring and at the end of October. Copper sulfate protects plums from:

• moniliosis;
• curliness;
• coccycosis;
• Clusterosporosis.

As for how to dilute copper sulfate and how much it is needed for one tree. The answer is very simple. If there is a tree growing in your garden that is not yet 6 years old, then you only need 2 liters of solution per seedling. For more mature plant which brings you excellent harvest fruit, you need to use 10 liters.

It needs to be diluted away from people and animals, and so that it does not end up in various water supplies or bodies of water. For trees, 50-100 grams are enough, which need to be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spraying is best done in the morning or evening, when the weather outside is calm and the temperature is from +5 to +30 degrees.

Urea

As a first care for such fruit trees, like apple, plum and pear trees, they need to be sprayed with urea a week after flowering or for wintering. Such treatment will have an additional effect that will save the future harvest. When the tree is first treated, in addition to destroying all pests, you also slow down the rate at which the tree wakes up from its hibernation for several weeks. This will help protect the sensitive plum blossom from early frosts.

Just like copper sulfate, it is diluted in 10 liters of water, while only 50 grams of the product itself is needed. Orchard Spray a week after flowering to protect it from copperhead, aphids, and caterpillars.

IN autumn period, when half of the foliage has already fallen off, the trees should be treated with a solution of a higher concentration, but it should be less than 500 grams per 10 liters.

You can spray it not only on the branches and trunk, but also on the ground, this way you will also fertilize the plants. If you hurry and do this procedure earlier than expected, the leaves will get burned and fall off faster. And the fruit trees won't get enough of everyone nutrients which they need for wintering.

inkstone

Iron sulfate, like copper sulfate, is sprayed twice a year: in spring and autumn. When trees are treated with this product, they get a double effect. On the one hand, trees receive iron in a certain form, which helps it with respiration. And on the other hand, is effective drug which will protect against pests. Most often, trees such as apple, pear, and plum suffer from iron deficiency. This can be seen in the quantity and quality of the harvest.

It happens that the garden consists of old fruit trees, so you need to spray the product not only in March, but also at the end of autumn. This will help in the fight against:

• deprived;
• moss;
• cytosporosis;
• black cancer;
• semtosporosis;
• cytosprorosis.

And thereby automatically increase your harvest and the growth of the plant itself.

Preparation-30

For spraying fruit trees, Preparation-30 is used in early spring or late autumn. The concentration should be 200 grams per 10 liters of water. With this treatment you will get rid of whiteflies, aphids, moths, leaf rollers, red and brown fruit mite, larvae. Many argue that this drug achieves results not through poisoning, but through the film that is obtained after spraying. It does not disrupt water balance and gas exchange. This creates a terrible environment for pests to exist in, and they die. But despite its effectiveness, drug -30 is recommended not to be used more than once every 3 years.

Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux mixture is used in the fight against diseases. Most often this applies to apple, pear and quince. At the beginning of spring, this liquid is used with a concentration of 300-400 grams per 10 liters. And during the growing season you only need 100 grams per 10 liters. Bordeaux mixture has increased resistance to humid environments. It is best to use it when the buds on the trees open and in late autumn, before frost.

The mixture itself consists of copper sulfate and lime. When working with it, only wooden, glass and clay containers are used. During processing, it is best to isolate all animals and people around. It must be used when there is high dew, when precipitation is possible.

Achieve maximum effect You can avoid the use of toxic drugs by having at hand a clearly developed plan of protective measures for each group of fruit, berry and vegetable plants. This allows you to reduce the number of treatments to a minimum.

Treatment and spraying of apple and pear trees:

1. . Removal and burning of lacewing and hawthorn nests, dry mummified fruits. Pruning dried, damaged and diseased shoots and branches, as well as branches with egg-laying ringed silkworms.

2. At the beginning of bud break (green cone). Against scab, “blue spraying” is carried out with 3% Bordeaux mixture. At temperatures no higher than +10, weevils are shaken off the branches onto the litter and then destroyed. This operation is performed 2-3 times. Against the flower beetle, treatment is carried out with one of the insecticides permitted in the given region: fastak (1.5 ml), fufanon (10 ml), ZOV preparation (300-400 ml), calypso (2 ml), actara (1.2-1. 6 d) etc.

3. Beginning of budding(promotion of inflorescences). Treated against diseases if “blue spraying” was not carried out. Copper-containing preparations Medex (100 g), Medex-M (100 g), as well as speed, strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g), abiga-pik (40-50 g) are used. Insecticides Novaktion (13 ml), sumithion (16 ml), fastak (1.5-2 ml), fufanon (10 ml) and decoctions or infusions of plants are used to treat against aphids, suckers, and ticks.

The indicated doses of drugs are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed (2-5 liters of solution per tree).

On a note

You can treat fruit-bearing trees (poma and stone fruits), as well as gooseberries and currants with chemicals before and after flowering. But no later than 20-30 days before harvesting, as well as after collecting fruits and berries. Raspberries, strawberries and strawberries - only before flowering and after harvesting. Cabbage - no later than 20 days before cutting the heads, radishes - only on shoots. Chemical treatment of green and spicy crops, whose aerial parts are eaten, is not allowed at all.

4. Immediately after flowering.

Treat against spotting, powdery mildew, and scab with fungicides topsin-M (10 g), flint (1.5 g), medyan extra (20 ml), strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g) , abiga-pik (40-50 g), etc. Remove nests with apple moth and ringed silkworm caterpillars, shake off fruit ovaries damaged by the apple fruit sawfly onto the litter. If necessary, against copperheads, sawflies, aphids, mites, and codling moths, trees are treated with the insecticide Vertimek (3-5 ml per 10 liters of water) or with the preparations novaction, sumition, fastak, fufanon, actara. A pear infested with gall mites is treated with colloidal sulfur. Hunting belts are placed on the trunks and skeletal branches. In the southern regions, where the codling moth produces two generations, the hunting belts are inspected every 7-10 days, and in the northern regions - at the end of the season.

5. 10 days after flowering. Spraying the garden against scab in rainy years with phytosporin-M (20 g of powder or 15 ml of liquid preparation per 10 liters of water to treat 100 sq.m of garden area) or fungicides from step 4.

6. 2-2.5 weeks after the end of flowering on late varieties of apple and pear trees. If necessary, treat against first-generation apple and pear moth caterpillars, psyllids and against scab with the above-mentioned insecticides and fungicides

7.14-18 days after the previous treatment on late varieties. If necessary, trees are sprayed again against codling moths, leaf rollers, mites, aphids and scab.

8.Two treatments with an interval of 14-18 days after the previous spraying winter varieties against the same pests, scab and fruit rot with one of the above fungicides and insecticides. Worm carrion is collected every evening, as well as fruits affected by fruit rot. They are buried to a depth of at least 50 cm.

9. Autumn period before the onset of frost. Before leaf fall begins, trees are treated with a 5-7% urea solution. Fallen leaves are raked and removed from the garden (into compost; if they are affected by scab, it is better to burn them). They dig up tree trunk circles. Clean and destroy old dead bark from trunks and skeletal branches.

Whitewashing is carried out with special garden whitewash or paint. These activities are against moths, sunburn and rodents.

Processing and spraying plums, cherry plums

1 .Early spring period before bud break. Pruning and destruction of dried and damaged branches by pests and diseases, cleaning old, dead bark on trunks and skeletal branches of trees, removing and burning winter nests of pests and mummified fruits (if this work was not carried out in the autumn-winter period).

2. Swelling of buds before they begin to bloom at a temperature not lower than +4 "C. Treatment with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture (“blue spraying”) against diseases and insecticides (ZOV preparation (300-400 ml/10 l of water) against the wintering stages of mites, aphids and other pests.

3. Before flowering (beginning of bud protrusion). Spraying with one of the preparations - a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Pik (40-50 g), Medex, Medex-M, Azofos, Chorus, Topsin-M, Tercel - against klyasterosporiosis, moniliosis and leaf spot. Against leaf-eating caterpillars, sawflies, aphids and mites - insecticides Fufanon, Novaktion, Insegar, Actara, etc. (doses are indicated above).

4. 5-6 days after flowering. Shaking onto the litter and destroying ovaries damaged by fruit sawfly larvae. Treatment of trees with insecticides and fungicides against a complex of pests and diseases (see point 4 in protecting the apple tree).

5. At the beginning of stone formation. Spraying with insecticides against the first generation plum moth at the beginning of the hatching of caterpillars, as well as aphids, mites and other pests (insegar - 5 g, sumity-on - 10-24 ml, actara - 1.2-1.4 g, etc.).

6. Two of the same treatments with an interval of 14-18 days after the previous spraying late varieties carried out against the second generation plum moth, aphids and mites in the Central Black Earth, Volga, North Caucasus and Far Eastern zones. Collection and destruction of fallen fruits when moths are detected.

7. After harvest. Before leaf fall, spray the trees with a 5% urea solution. Digging up tree trunk circles, pruning branches, cleaning old dead bark on trunks and skeletal branches, raking and removing fallen leaves. Whitewashing of trees.

Treatment and spraying of the garden from diseases and pests - sharing our experience

Motor oil for cancer

Gardeners often complain about fruit tree cancer. I do this: I spread it under the trunk plastic film(to then collect and burn the waste). I clean the cancer wound with a sharp knife down to healthy wood and treat it with iodine, and then lubricate the affected area with used automobile oil. I have been using this method for many years, including to treat cracks, and I am very pleased with the result.

To increase the winter hardiness and resistance of trees to cancer, I apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in August and early September. In early spring, when I prune, I always cover the cut areas. oil paint or garden varnish.

Vitriol will help

This is the second year that pears have been sick.

A neighbor planted Cossack juniper, and it is a carrier of fungal diseases. Therefore we have to pay Special attention fight against pear rust. I process trees in October copper sulfate(100 g per 10 liters of water) and urea (5-7%). I make sure to remove all debris and fallen leaves.

Sometimes the bark of trees is covered with moss. In this case, after the leaves fall, I first clean the trunk, and then treat the damaged area with a solution of copper sulfate.

Rust on the pear

Another important autumn procedure is whitewashing trees, with the exception of young plants. At the same time, I whiten not only the trunk, but, if possible, the branches - the higher, the better. You can prepare the mixture the old fashioned way: mix 2 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and mullein, 250 g of copper sulfate in a bucket of water. But so that she is not “aggressive”, I insist on her for 2 weeks.

Fruit scourges - expert opinion

Unfortunately, no orchard can avoid encountering scab, monilial blight or coccomycosis. The consequences of these invasions affect the harvest and sometimes even lead to the death of trees. To be fully prepared when trouble comes knocking on your garden, we offer you a list of the most common fruit scourges and methods to combat them.

In the last five years in Central region spread monilial stone burn. This disease is caused by a fungus from the genus Monilia.

Its first signs can be seen in the spring. Suddenly, during flowering, flowers, ovaries and leaves turn brown and dry out. The trees look scorched. The infection persists in the bark of diseased shoots and affected fruits and can cause rapid (within a year or two) death of trees.

The main measures to combat this disease are the mandatory cutting of affected branches, treating the cut areas with copper sulfate and subsequent puttingty with garden varnish, as well as early spring treatment with 1% Bordeaux mixture, repeating the treatment immediately after flowering and further treatment with Horus preparations (2 g per 10 l of water), “Topsin-M” (10 g per 10 l) and biological fungicide “Fitolavin” (20 ml per 10 l).

Pathogen coccomycosis in stone fruits it is the fungus Coccomyces. The signs of the disease are as follows: the leaves of cherries and cherries turn yellow and fall off, and before this their upper side becomes covered with small red-brown spots. Coccomycosis often affects old varieties. To combat it, standard fruit agricultural techniques are used - early spring blue spraying with further treatment with such systemic fungicides, like "Skor", "Topsin-M" and "Topaz".

The infection persists in fallen leaves, so litter from affected plants must be removed and burned or buried to the depth of two shovels.

Clusterosporiasis, or hole spot, affects plums, cherry plums, apricots and peaches. On store shelves, many have seen fruits with red-brown dots on the skin - these are signs of being affected by this disease.

On the tree itself, it appears in the form of red-brown or purple spots on leaves up to 5 mm in diameter, after some time holes form in their place (because of this, many confuse the disease with pest damage). Cracks appear on the bark of diseased trees, from which gum leaks. When pruning such plants, you should be especially careful, since the infection is transmitted through wounds. Be sure to disinfect your work tools.

Raspberry purple spot, or didimella, is found in almost all private gardens. Signs can be seen starting in mid-June: purple spots appear on young shoots, which merge, and the entire lower part of the shoot acquires a purple-blue color; brown spots with a yellow border are visible on the leaves. If these shoots are not cut out, but saved until next year, you can see that they dry out at the beginning of the growing season and their yield is either absent or greatly reduced, and the berries are deformed and small.

The infection persists in the stems of diseased plants. Measures to combat this disease include cutting out affected shoots, early spring treatment with copper preparations and spraying during the growing season with fungicides such as Fundazol (10 g per 10 l) or Topaz (4 ml per 10 l).

And of course, we cannot fail to mention such a disease as scab of pome crops. This is a well-known disease that affects almost all old varieties of apple trees and, to a lesser extent, pears. Currently, varieties have been developed that are immune to several races of scab. The disease is caused by the fungus Venturia and begins with the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, after which the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The fruits also become stained and their skin often cracks. The disease progresses in wet, cold spring and rainy summer. Preparations for fighting scab - “Horus”, “Skor”, “Raek”, “Strobi”.

Expert advice

Many gardeners carry out pruning in the fall, since at this time of year manipulations in the garden are more accessible compared to spring period, when the trees are more difficult to approach due to snow. However, in the Central region, with fairly harsh and unpredictable winters, pruning in the autumn is undesirable. It weakens the plants and reduces their chances of successfully overwintering. In addition, weakened plants are more susceptible to various diseases.

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

In large garden farms for getting big harvest For fruits and berries, trees are sprayed from 10 to 16 per season. Business owners are interested in producing fruits of the most beautiful, “commercial” quality, and environmental friendliness this method agricultural technology is secondary.

But for summer residents it’s the other way around: they need an environmentally friendly harvest. Everyone has their own priorities. But besides us, there are still a lot of pests vying for the harvest.

Spraying of trees in spring in home gardens is carried out 4 times. This is quite enough, the main task is not to miss the moment.

Pests and pathogens wake up and begin to fly in completely different terms. And in this matter, it is important not to miss the first signs. And they appear very early: at a temperature of +5 degrees. And in some latitudes this is the month of January!

What reduces the effectiveness of treating trees against pests and diseases

• Precipitation
• High humidity
• Fog
• Temperature changes

Spray the tree for the first time before the buds awaken

When to start spraying trees

No one will tell you the exact date. Firstly, the timing depends on the climate, and secondly, on the weather conditions this year. After all, winter can be harsh one year, and warm and with minimal precipitation the next.

Main landmark:

• Dry sunny weather.
• Plus temperature at night.

First spraying of trees in spring

Trees are treated for the first time by dormant buds or “bare” tree. It is important that the kidneys are still haven't started to swell. During this period, spores of fungal diseases scatter. The insects have not yet shown themselves.

The first spraying in spring is carried out from moniliosis who especially loves stone fruits(cherries, cherries, plums, peaches). It is easily recognized by the brown withered tips of the branches on the tree, as if the leaves had been burned. The disease is called monilial burn.

And on apple trees and pears (pome crops) they begin to actively reproduce scab spores. Source of the disease: wilted fruits, leaves left on the tree in the fall. The spores of this disease live under the bark and in fallen leaves.

Preparations for the first spraying of trees

You need to spray with ONE of these drugs!

• Bordeaux mixture 3%
• Pharma Iodine (suitable for organic farming)
• Abiga Peak
• Oksikhom
• Chorus (works at +5 degrees, and at more high temperature decomposes quickly)
• inkstone
• Nitrafen
• Carbamide (urea) in a large dose: 700 g per 10 liters of water + 50 g of copper sulfate.

Green cone

How to spray trees using a green cone

The second treatment of the garden is carried out during the period when the buds have already swollen and burst, but the leaves have not yet begun to bloom. The kidneys have cone-shaped.

This is critical important point to combat apple blossom beetle(weevil). Apple and pear trees suffer greatly from it.

The flower beetle lays its larvae in an unopened bud, which turns brown and does not open. Insects feed on the juices of the buds; sometimes you can notice how the buds “cry”: droplets of juice are released on them.

Pest repellents:

• Decis Profi
• Spark
• Inta-Vir
• Fufanon
• Kinmiks
• Tanrek

Simple, very effective and safe remedy from apple blossom beetle: Place a film on the ground under the tree. Wrap a cloth around a long stick and tap it on the branches and shake the entire tree. The insects fold their legs and fall down onto the film. They need to be collected and destroyed.

Used for diseases:

• Bordeaux mixture 1%
• Oksikhom
• Chorus (if the air temperature is not higher than +5).

During this period they hang hunting belts for a tree post, adhesive plates, pheromone traps for catching adult females of various pests.

Pink bud phase

Spraying trees in the pink bud phase

Spray BEFORE the buds open! At this moment already codling moth flies throughout the garden and lays its eggs on the leaves next to the flowers or directly in the flower. The larva penetrates the fruit and the result is wormy apples.

It is important to treat the entire crown, so you will need a good sprayer with a long hose. With high-quality and TIMELY spraying against the codling moth, there will be practically no carrion.

Pest repellents:

• Spark
• Inta-Vir
• Fitoverm (biological, effective at temperatures above 12 degrees)
• Bitoxibacillin (also biological).
• Decis Profi
• Fufanon
• Kinmiks
• Tanrek

From diseases, if you did not have time to spray in the previous phase, use the same preparations as for the second spraying. Important: Some medications can be mixed, read the packaging carefully. It doesn’t matter what to spray first: diseases or pests. 1-2 days should pass between treatments.

Rules for spraying trees in spring:

• Spray for diseases for the first time.
• The second is from pests.
• The third is for pests and diseases, if not sprayed earlier.
• Biological preparations should be used at temperatures of +12 degrees and above.
• It makes sense to spray with chorus only at low temperatures (from 1 to 6 degrees Celsius).
• Treat the entire crown and trunk from all sides.

The ovary has appeared - it’s time to spray the garden

Fourth tree treatment

The last time trees were sprayed was when fruits the size of peas will set. At this moment it begins the second wave of moliniosis, and the codling moth again operating at full strength. By the way, she flies at dusk and at night. Good way getting rid of it is compote bait.

Make apple compote and hang small buckets of compote on the tree. The codling moth will fly to the smell of an apple and thus it will be possible to collect adult individuals. Drugs for spraying are the same as for treatment 3.

In the spring it is necessary several times.