Do-it-yourself band sawmill? Why not! DIY band sawmill at home: materials, instructions, drawings Homemade band sawmill.

Although the prevalence of timber creates a large supply of lumber, it is not always available. The cost is especially high for large volumes. Buying a sawing machine will not pay for itself for small production or household needs. That’s why homemade mini-sawmills are becoming widespread. The simplest and most commonly used type of them were band sawing stations.

Principle of operation

Band sawmill cutting mechanism

The design consists of two rotating elements, between which a saw is stretched. As the coils rotate, reciprocating movements of the cutting element are created. Thanks to this, the cutting occurs. The sawmill operates in a horizontal plane.

The cutting element is mounted on a mobile trolley. Moving along the rails, it travels a distance equal to the length of the element being processed. The log is fixed to the frame motionless. To do this, you need to make clamps attached to the frame.

The maximum processing length depends on the length of the rails along which the cart moves. The maximum width depends on the distance between the saw tension elements. All distances are indicated on the drawing.

For quality work:

• the log must be fixed;
• the gradation, accuracy and evenness of the cut are adjusted;
• the saw blade must have the necessary tension;
• the saw must be sharpened and with set teeth.

The sawing process takes place in three stages.

1. The timber is pre-sorted by length and diameter dimensions. The dimensions are manually adjusted to the parameters of the sawmill.
2. Sawing process. Before making the first cut, the operator checks the equipment and adjusts the cutting parameters.
3. Subsequent manual revision. A homemade tool does not provide accuracy and evenness. Therefore, the necessary parameters need to be made with a grinder or plane.

Materials and tools for installation

Main parts of a band sawmill

A band sawmill is created with your own hands from new or used materials:

• pulleys are approximately Ø 30 cm. Spare parts from the Niva combine are perfect;
• a half-inch pipe and a second one, larger in diameter. The second product must be chosen so that it fits over the first with a slight play;
• steel 50th angle. Position it better edge vertically. When installing with the shelf up, increased accuracy of roller adjustment is required. Otherwise, the wear of the wheels is very high;
• sleepers are formed from a profile metal pipe. A section of 25*25 mm is sufficient;
• a movable mechanism in the form of a piece of an inch pipe and fittings fixed to it is attached to the rails. It is designed to fix the workpiece.

The following tools are required for assembly:

• drill;
• welding installation;
• lathe;
• grinder with metal circles, a stripping brush and a wood circle;
• hammer;
• building level;
• roulette;
• fastening accessories and wrenches.

Drawing and main components of the sawmill

Power saw based sawmill

Before manufacturing, it is necessary to calculate the needs of materials. To do this, draw a drawing of a sawmill with your own hands. It can be done by hand, but it is better to use drawing complexes. Graphics programs such as Compass and SolidWorks will help you create 2D and 3D, calculate static and dynamic loads.

To begin with, you can make a simple device with manual feed. Having understood the principle of operation, you can increase power, add electronics and sensors.

The assembly of the sawmill is based on the frame principle. For significant loads, the frame should be made with braces. The main components of the product include:

• directly frame;
• guides for the movement of the saw unit;
• screw assembly for moving the tape;
• spring saw tension mechanism;
• two pulleys - movable and stationary;
• protective casing;
• transfer unit;
• engine (electric or gasoline);
• tank with cooling liquid;
• workpiece clamps;
• stoppers.

An electric or chainsaw is often used as a cutting element. This is useful for small amounts of work. This design will save time assembling the sawmill. The drawings for its manufacture are much simpler.

DIY making

Control unit on a homemade sawmill

First of all, the rails are assembled. It is better to immediately make them 8 m long. To avoid deformation of the base under load, you need to make couplers from a ¾ pipe. Bolts with a length of 29 to 34 cm are used for fastening. This must be indicated on the drawings. The racks are assembled with M12 bolts.

The massiveness of the structure requires permanent installation. Therefore, a concrete foundation is provided at the assembly site or bars are placed under the racks.

The movable trolley is represented by a 46 mm monolithic steel plate. The dimensions of the slab are 60 cm in length and 80 mm wider in width than the rail track. This must be indicated on the drawing.

Pulleys are mounted on the movable carriage. One is attached movably, the other is not.

It is better to place the pulleys not parallel, as in many production drawings, but at an angle of 4° relative to each other vertically. In this case, the tape will not fly off during the cutting process.

For ease of operation, you can make a steering wheel. The movement from the steering wheel is transmitted through a metal chain. In some models, a control unit is made.

Then the clamps for the log are installed. At the end, to avoid damage, an electric motor and a saw are installed.

The saw can be factory-made or made of cold-rolled steel 65G or U8, 10. The thickness of the cut is selected based on the type of wood.

DIY band sawmill

Wood is widely used in everyday life in the production of various structures, their finishing and other work. Owners of private land constantly conduct construction works: build an extension, update the fence, increase the reliability of structures, and so on. The ease of workability, as well as the availability of wood, initially determined their popularity. Many owners of private houses and plots have determined in their own practice that purchasing logs and getting boards, beams, and edges from them is much cheaper than buying ready-made lumber. Also, do not forget that sometimes the length and thickness, width of the boards or timber used have important. Therefore, making them yourself can significantly reduce money and time costs.

A band saw is often used to obtain lumber from a log or other piece of wood. The popularity of this equipment has determined the emergence of a huge number of different machines, some of them compact and designed for installation in a home workshop. However, the cost household options execution is quite large, it is advisable to buy them only in the case of continuous production of lumber or other wood products. This is why many people decide to do homemade design. A band sawmill can be created with your own hands within a short period of time, for which you should know: what parts are needed for this, how the assembly is carried out.

Homemade band-saw

Cost and efficiency of industrial options

Why is there a great desire to create a homemade version of the machine? An example is the Taiga band sawmill, the cost of which, depending on its performance, can vary between 112-165 thousand rubles. Even the simplest version, which does not have great performance, will cost at least 90 thousand rubles. A homemade band sawmill will cost several times less. A self-made machine is suitable for occasional use.

Difficulties in making a machine yourself

The structure of a band sawmill is quite complex. The performance of the band sawmill, service life without breakdowns, and much more depend on the quality of the assembly. You should start making your own machine after considering the following points:

1. Installation work is carried out using welding. Therefore, without welding machine It is practically impossible to carry out work on creating a frame and other elements. To change the shape and size of structural elements you will need a power tool and a milling machine. Of course, the creation of some elements can be entrusted to professionals, but this will significantly increase the cost of the work.
2. During operation, a large load is placed on the band sawmill. Therefore, the structure must be stable and durable. To do this, the structure is attached to the base, and the frame and other elements are produced taking into account the possible weight of the processed logs, about 300 kilograms.
3. If you are creating a homemade gasoline band sawmill, then you should take into account the need to carry out work on sharpening the saw and routing the working part.
4. There are quite a lot various designs, which allow you to indicate the thickness of the resulting product.
5. It is necessary to consider the safety of using the equipment. The installed saw and tape can cause significant harm to human health.

It is worth considering that the design of homemade band saws is only suitable for cutting boards of various lengths and widths.

There are quite a large number of options for making homemade band saws, the drawings of which are based on the use of electric and gasoline engines. At the same time, electric versions are very popular due to better performance and ease of use. But not in all cases it is possible to use an electric motor as a driving force, since electricity is not available on all plots of land.

Conduct a review of specific machines, the drawings of which have exact dimensions. After all, each production requires a table of different sizes, as well as an electric motor of different power.

Scheme of a homemade band sawmill

The procedure for making a homemade band sawmill

1. It is important to choose the right location for installing the equipment. If an electric motor is used as a driving element, it is recommended to eliminate the possibility of increased humidity environment to prevent short circuits. For ease of processing logs, the area of ​​the workshop or shed should be at least 18 square meters.
2. The work of a band sawmill involves manual feeding of logs, the weight of which is quite large. That is why work on creating the structure in question begins with the manufacture of the frame. It must be stable and have an elongated shape. One part of the machine is designed to accommodate the main structural elements, the second for feeding the workpiece. The elongated part, where the log is located before processing, has rails that help move the workpiece. During production, a profile with a cross-sectional area of ​​at least 5 centimeters is used. Particular attention is paid to the evenness and horizontal guides.
3. The homemade product cuts the workpiece in a horizontal plane. That is why you should consider how the height of the saw will change. Various mechanisms can be used.
4. In our case, an electric motor is used to transmit rotation to the main structural elements. When choosing an electric motor, it is taken into account what voltage it should be powered from (220 or 380 Volts), what power is needed, as well as the placement of the main fastening elements. It is recommended to choose a motor that is powered by a 220 Volt network and has a power of at least 2 kW. The power of the electric motor determines how productive the created machine will be. If you choose the wrong electric motor, it will overheat during operation.

3d model of band sawmill

The electric motor mount must be located on the opposite side from the place where the workpieces are fed. In this case, it is important to pay attention to the strength of the fastening - during operation, a great impact will be exerted on the electric motor. In most cases, the electric motor is placed under the frame, creating a protective casing (from water and mechanical stress).

The next important point is the type of drive used to transmit rotation. For many years, direct installation, when the output shaft of the electric motor is rigidly connected to the cutting element of the band sawmill, has not been used. The reason is that the load on the electric motor will vary over a wide range, and there is no protective mechanism to prevent the saw from stopping. Therefore, the drive used is a combination of pulleys and a belt. If the load is large, the belt will slip. By changing the diameters of the pulley, you can reduce or increase the rotation speed of the cutting element of the machine. However, the power from this remains unchanged (the use of a belt drive determines the loss of several percent of efficiency). In addition to the above points, it should be taken into account that over time the belt wears out, the movement of the pulleys leads to the appearance of sound.

An important design element is the rollers on which the cutting blade is mounted. One of the rollers is driving, the second is tensioning. Let us note the point that homemade options designs are often created using regular wheels instead of rollers. When creating this structural element, it should be taken into account that the tape must have good tension, for which one of the rollers is spring-loaded. When creating a structure, you should pay attention to the strength of fastening of all elements, since during sawing a strong lateral load may occur on the blade - if a mistake is made, it can fly off.

The above points indicate the main points for the production of a homemade sawmill. You can make a band sawmill yourself with minimal cost. After all, you only need to buy or find an engine, pulleys and rollers, find a metal profile for the frame and a blade for sawing. The reliability of the design depends on technical condition all nodes and the quality of their connections. Therefore, before using the sawmill, you should check it carefully.

You may also be interested in the following articles:

Do-it-yourself circular sawmill How to make a sawmill with your own hands Homemade sawmill from a chainsaw How to make a jointer with your own hands

Homemade sawmill with your own hands

When there is a need to process a large volume of boards and wood, the best option is to use a sawmill created by yourself. Many are sure that it is worth buying a ready-made device, but making it yourself is not at all difficult. in this article we will talk about how to make a homemade sawmill. Photos of drawings in large quantities are present on the Internet.

How to make a homemade sawmill

Before you begin this process, you need to decide on the amount of work to be done, as well as the wood. After this, you need to look for drawings of a homemade sawmill on the Internet and decide on the type of device to successfully achieve your goal. When assembling a device with your own hands, the main attention should be paid to safety issues, since such a device is subject to increased risk.

A homemade sawmill resembles the rotation of two reels with a thread stretched between them. This thread is the saw, and the distance from one spool to the other is the optimal size of the log. A homemade sawmill, the creation video of which is presented below, makes it possible to:

• adjust logs to one shape and size
• carry out cutting of the workpiece according to a specific pattern after precise adjustments of the equipment.

However, cutting often results in minor flaws that cannot be eliminated. For this reason, the wood must be additionally processed manually.

A homemade sawmill works like this:

• the workpiece is firmly fixed to the platform and does not move
• the movement of the mobile cart ensures cutting of wood
• the saw is positioned horizontally
• to obtain a specific size of boards, you must initially set the appropriate parameters
• The saw blade is a saw, so it must be properly tensioned.

Homemade sawmill, video

Place for a homemade sawmill

Since a homemade sawmill is a large-sized and quite dangerous device, before making homemade sawmills with your own hands (you can watch a video of their creation on our website), you need to think carefully and decide in which place you will use such a device.

A barn or garage, as well as any utility room with a concrete base, are best suited for this purpose. The sawmill room must have a good ventilation system. It should not be cramped and well lit.

It is fashionable to place the sawmill on the street, but it is necessary to build a canopy for it. If you are planning to create a sawmill with an electric motor, then you need to pay special attention to the installation of wiring and all switches and machines.

When assembling the unit with your own hands, pay special attention to its cutting and moving parts. They are the most dangerous parts.

When working with four roller sawmill frames, it is necessary to cut logs no shorter than 3 meters. If there is a need to process shorter workpieces, the sawmill must be equipped with additional mechanisms. To work with workpieces less than 1.5 m, you need to use special eight-roller frames. Additional safety is guaranteed by the brake of the sawmill, which allows it to be braked without recoil.

Upon completion of assembly and before use, you must carefully check all fasteners and components, as well as the stability of the entire structure. Only after this can you start the device.

How to make the right choice

When choosing the most ideal option for a woodworking machine, you need to pay attention to the most basic advantage of band saws compared to multi-rip saws disk machines, this advantage lies in the low cutting height.

Cut size disk sawmill, often fluctuates between 5-6.2 mm. The tire sawmill makes an even larger cut. For example, you can look at the cutting map of a thin log with a cross-section of 180 mm and a material with a cross-section of 124x35, it turns out that the total cutting area will be 4377 mm2. But if the log is 90x90, then 17.2% of the wood will become sawdust. If you process 900 m3 or more every month, then such wood loss will not be noticeable, because the volumes processed compensate for the loss. But if production volumes are not large, then it is necessary to use technologies that are characterized by low productivity, but make it possible to saw workpieces with minimal losses. Therefore, for small production volumes it is better to use band sawmills, but not tire sawmills.

When using a band saw, the cut size will be from 2.2 to 2.5 mm. When harvesting with a cross-section of 180 mm for the production of lumber with a cross-section of 124x35, the cutting area is 1765 mm2. In this case, only 6.9% of the wood will turn into sawdust.

Tire devices that produce a wide cut are used, most often, by private owners or small farms to process minimal volumes of raw materials, for which the yield of lumber is not important.

We present to your attention a very cool video compilation of homemade products for a walk-behind tractor:
1. Do-it-yourself potato planter for a walk-behind tractor
2. Homemade cultivators for walk-behind tractors
3. Homemade flat cutters for walk-behind tractors
4. Homemade hiller for walk-behind tractor
5. Homemade mowers for walk-behind tractors
6. Homemade lugs for walk-behind tractors
7. Homemade potato digger for walk-behind tractor
8. Homemade wood splitter for walk-behind tractor
9. Homemade snow blower for walk-behind tractor
10. Homemade seeder for walk-behind tractor
11. Homemade trailer for a walk-behind tractor

How to convert a screwdriver yourself from Ni-Ca to lithium-ion batteries or into a screwdriver operating on 220 V mains. Detailed description and a cool video selection of the best videos on the topic. Bring your screwdriver to life now!

Homemade engine from washing machine:

1. How to connect a motor from an old washing machine through or without a capacitor
2. Homemade emery from the engine washing machine
3. Homemade generator from a washing machine engine
4. Connecting and adjusting the speed of the commutator motor from automatic washing machine
5. Potter's wheel from a washing machine
6. Lathe from a washing machine
7. Wood splitter with a washing machine engine
8. Homemade concrete mixer

EuroSamodelki.ru- This great amount homemade products, which are accompanied by detailed illustrated instructions for self-production. There are already more than 2100 homemade products in our catalog. Join us, join our social group In contact with. We are waiting for you! Do something useful for yourself, for your home, for your loved ones.

Make homemade things with your own hands like us, do better than us!

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DIY band sawmill drawings

Dear site visitors " Homemade friend " From the presented material you will learn how to make your own band sawmill. Every craftsman dreams of having his own sawmill on his farm, because its presence will reduce the cost of lumber tenfold. Using this machine, you can cut logs into boards and bars yourself, as well as great option And for those who are building. that is, the boards can be produced directly at the construction site of the future house. It is also possible to open your own private sawmill and cut boards for money and replenish the family treasury with additional income. In general, the machine is very good from all sides, and its independent assembly will again cost much less than a factory analogue, because many spare parts can be used used and those available from the car enthusiast, for example. wheels from passenger car, hubs, bearings, bolts and other things that you can get in the garage)

The design of a band sawmill consists of 1. a rail track 2. a frame with a power unit 3. a blade 4 adjustment and tension mechanisms 5. a carriage 6. a flat surface (preferably a foundation slab)

And so, let's take a look at the list of necessary components for assembling the machine. We will also analyze the whole process step by step.

Materials

1. corner 100x100, channel, narrow-gauge rail (for the manufacture of rail beds)
2. car wheels
3. hubs
4. bearings
5. square corrugated pipe
6. threaded stud
7. jack
8. IV
9. power unit(gasoline or electric motor)
10. fittings
11. bolts, nuts, washers, engravers
12. sheet metal 1 mm
13. belt

1. welding machine
2. drill
3. emery
4. Bulgarian
5. hammer
6. roulette
7. set of wrenches
8. Laser level)
9. ruler
10. corner

And so, the first thing you should do is get acquainted with the drawings, because any business begins with markings, as they say, “Measure twice, cut once.





So we got acquainted with the drawings, and now I would also like to note that homemade sawmills come in several types

1 Band sawmill with electric motor.
2. Band sawmill with gasoline engine.
3 Tire sawmill. The operating principle of a band saw for sawing wood. The blade is tensioned on 2 horizontally located pulleys, in this case these are ordinary car wheels with a tire and a tube. The undeniable advantage of this design is that the saw can be tensioned by inflating the tires. The limiter and support rollers are located directly at the bottom.
Well, I hope the principle of operation is clear, then you should take care of placing a rail track along which a carriage with a saw blade will walk and cut the logs into boards. The area must be at least 3 x 6 m in size, and most importantly, level! Therefore, it is necessary to pour a foundation slab under the sawmill and level it to a perfectly flat surface. A recess is dug, a sand cushion is laid and a reinforced concrete slab is poured.
Next comes the installation of the rail track itself, in best case scenario can be made from narrow gauge rails railway, but it’s difficult to get one, so you’ll have to make it from a channel or corner. Note. In the photo the corner is positioned edge up.
You can connect the corners to each other by welding, but when the metal heats up it can lead, and we need a perfectly flat road, you can also attach the rail directly to concrete base using anchor bolts.
Support rollers can be made from ordinary bearings, or ordered from a familiar turner.
After this, the saw frame itself is manufactured, using pipes of different diameters that can be inserted into one another. due to which the slider can rise up and down.
The frame is welded from a square-section corrugated pipe.
Support rollers are installed at the bottom. they must match the width of the rail track.
Next, the lifting mechanism is manufactured.



Then the pulleys and hubs are installed.

Connection to the power unit.
Alignment and support saw blade carried out by bearings.

A protective metal casing must be installed on top. Safety precautions are paramount here, because the canvas can fly out.
The tension mechanism can be made from a small jack.
After the sawmill is fully assembled, a test run is carried out; if everything is in order, the engine is turned off and the log is laid and secured.

The log unfolds into planks. You can also watch the work of the sawmill visually on video.

Wood sawing machine (saw bench) – rather complex special production equipment that requires strict adherence to safety measures during operation. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, your own sawmill can significantly reduce the cost of wood construction and/or become a source of stable income. The purpose of this publication is to help the reader understand how to make a sawmill with your own hands, choose a suitable design for yourself and avoid insurmountable difficulties in its manufacture.

When is it needed?

Interest in the “do-it-yourself sawmill” actually came to RuNet from the EU. There, at a certain period of time (which has not yet completely ended), independent sawing of round timber into measured lumber turned out to be profitable no matter what. In the Russian Federation the situation is significantly different. First, the “scissors” of prices for wild logs and timber in Russia have already been “divorced” a lot. Second, primary wood processing is a particularly dangerous job, just like logging. It is not realistic for a small individual entrepreneur to open a sawmill legally - Russian legislation on labor protection in this regard is draconian.

The third point is sawdust. There will be a lot of them from the primary processing of wood. You cannot store sawdust (for example, as fuel for a long-burning stove) - it begins to ferment, releasing highly toxic methanol ( methyl alcohol, wood alcohol). Sawmills are required to hand over sawdust for recycling. It’s easier with them “over the hill” - local MDF and fiberboard manufacturers will willingly buy the raw materials they need, maybe even with pick-up. The Russian Federation is by no means poor in wood, and Russian manufacturers of board/sheet wood materials do not accept “leftist” batches of sawdust. Based on these conditions, it is possible to preliminarily determine cases when making a sawmill yourself in the Russian Federation may make sense:

• An indispensable condition is if round timber is easily accessible in your area, and the nearest sawmill is far away. Renting a timber truck for Russian distances (meaning idle mileage from the garage) on Russian roads in the outback is significantly more expensive per ton-kilometer of cargo than in Europe.
• If the indispensable condition is met, then the first case is independent wooden construction in the event of a chronic shortage Money. Then, independent sawing of round timber into timber will reduce the construction estimate by 2-3 times and up to 5 times, taking into account the costs of manufacturing a sawmill. Resp. The construction period will also lengthen, but when there is no money, there is nothing to choose. With sawdust - do what you want, they will turn out once.
• The next option is cutting wild logs to order at home, i.e. a foreman on call to the owner's yard. In the conditions of the Russian Federation, this is perhaps the best option: you can bring a mobile mini-sawmill (see below) to the place of work in a passenger car, so the cost of sawing is acceptable for both parties. Sawdust is the owner’s problem, and a small one, because... They are also thrown out to him on the site once. They don’t give the master a headache, i.e. you can register, for example. Individual entrepreneur as a carpenter and work “in white”.

Design Features

The main feature of the sawmill is that the cut in it is always longitudinal. It is well known how difficult it is to cut wood along the grain. Unlike circular saw The sawmill does not deal with measuring boards and beams, but with wild logs in general irregular shape. Therefore, in sawmills, a saw carriage with a working element (the saw itself) moves along the log being cut; Otherwise, it is very difficult to ensure the accuracy and cleanliness of the cut. Large timber processing enterprises also have sawmills for sawing very long logs (up to 30, and in the tropics up to 60-70 m). In them, the carriage is stationary, and the log is moved by a hydraulic system; The centering of the line is ensured by a computer with sensors. But at home, such a solution is unrealistic.

Note: The sawing of logs is always carried out in the direction of convergence of the wood fibers, i.e. from the butt to the top. If you put the carriage in reverse, then any saw (see below) will certainly get stuck in the tree and/or break.

What to cut with?

How affordable, durable, convenient and safe to use a home-made sawmill will be is mainly determined by the design of its working part. Another essential condition is the requirements for the productivity of the machine and its operating mode (regularly, from time to time). The third is the resource of the working body and the possibility of replacing it. And finally, the energy supply at the place of work is important: what is more accessible there – electricity or motor fuel? There are also less significant additional conditions, see below.

In sawmills with small and medium productivity (up to 3-5 cubic meters of wood per 6-hour work shift), the following are used. types of working bodies:

• Reciprocating saw bar (old).
• Saw blade (item 1 in the figure below).
• Saw band (item 2).
• Saw chain (item 3).
• Chain saw bar continuous action(new, item 4).
• Household chainsaw (item 5).

How to drink?

The orientation of the cutting surface can be horizontal or vertical. Resp. and the cut will be horizontal or vertical, and the sawmill will be horizontal or vertical. Vertical cutting, firstly, reduces material waste, because It is enough to level the log under it only in the horizontal plane. When cutting horizontally, a log needs to be leveled both horizontally and vertically to minimize waste, otherwise too much wood will go into the slab (“hunch”). Secondly, when cutting vertically, the cut (the part of the log being sawed off) does not put pressure on the working part and clings to it much less. Therefore, to saw the same timber vertically, the drive power required is 2-3 times less than horizontally, see the video below:

Video: homemade vertical chain sawmill

But, firstly, the risk of injury with vertical sawmills is much higher than with horizontal ones. Secondly, the transverse feeding of logs under the saw of a vertical sawmill is structurally and technically very complex, and ensuring the maximum permissible sawing accuracy according to specifications of up to 6 mm per 6 m of log length on a homemade vertical sawmill is extremely difficult or even impossible. Therefore, it is better to build a sawmill with your own hands for a horizontal cut.

Structural composition of the sawmill

We’ll talk a little further about the features of a particular saw for a sawmill. First you need to understand the design of the sawing machine as a whole. It consists of:

1. working body - saw (see above and below);
2. drive to it from the motor;
3. saw carriage;
4. rail track (guide) for it;
5. carriage (cradle) for logs;
6. grip holders for him;
7. a frame that combines all this into a single device and ensures its overall strength and reliability.

Note: certain structural components of the sawmill can be made integral with the frame.

Drawings of the sawmill in full structural composition (layout diagram) are given in Fig.:

Its features are, firstly, a frame made of wooden beams. Secondly, a minimum of welding work during assembly. This important point: conducts metal structures during welding; Because of this, it is very problematic to specify the cutting accuracy of a welded sawmill. Thirdly, the carriage rail (item 13 on the right) is made of angle steel, cheaper than a channel; the necessary stability of the track is ensured by rigid fastening of the rails to the frame. As a result, the support shoes of the carriage are pairs of ordinary rolling bearings, and the smoothness and accuracy of its movement are high; trembling of the carriage is the main cause of sawing defects. Another consequence is the carriage feed mechanism without a gear (chain, screw, etc.), which also increases the smoothness of its movement. Finally, in a carriage of this design it is possible to install a drive with any of the saws listed above for horizontal cutting; disc, with a continuous tire and a chainsaw also for a vertical one.

The disadvantage of this machine is the comb log holders. It is impossible to make them from a channel less than 60 mm, as they will not hold the timber. That is, the last unusable slab will be no thinner than 60 mm. Additionally, material waste will increase because it is impossible to align the log vertically in this machine. However, it is not so difficult to get rid of these shortcomings by using a separate carriage for logs of a simple design, see below.

The operation of the cutting thickness setting unit (in the inset) requires some explanation, which in this machine is quite simple, accurate and easy to use. The nuts 5 in the insert are welded to the support plate 4 and locked. After the first cut, the adjusting screws (item 1 in the inset and 11 on the right) rotate synchronously, because they are connected by a chain drive (item 20 on the right). There is no need to loosen the locknuts (item 2 in the inset): they will loosen on their own. When the saw is installed in a new position below the previous one, the locknuts are tightened by hand.

Saw like a saw – longitudinal

A reciprocating saw bar is nothing more than a carpenter's rip saw blade. Its drawing, tooth profiling and wiring diagram are given in Fig. on right. The drive in the sawmill is from a flywheel to a crank mechanism through a slider - a smooth steel rod sliding in a cage with bronze or Babbitt liners (this is exactly what is shown in the figure above with the layout diagram of the sawmill). In former times, craftsmen used carpenter's bow saw blades instead of a saw bar; They also saw along, and you could buy them in almost any tool store. In this case, the tension of the blade during the reverse stroke is ensured by a fairly strong return spring.

The advantage of a reciprocating saw bar is a smooth, clean cut with a width of no more than 3 mm, i.e. low material waste. The resource is very solid, no less than that of a saw blade, see below. But there are also a lot of disadvantages:

• Low productivity: if the feed of the carriage during the reverse stroke of the saw exceeds 1/3 of the tooth height, i.e. 4 mm, the saw gets stuck.
• It is impossible to saw a log with a diameter of more than 300-320 mm - the blade immediately gets stuck and wrinkles.
• Damp, unseasoned wood does not take, it also immediately gets stuck and breaks.
• Very often gets stuck on knots and strands.
• If there is insufficient tension on the reverse stroke, the cut sharply worsens - it becomes wide and torn.
• The same applies to an excessively strong return spring.

In professional forestry, reciprocating saw bars fell out of use by end of the 19th century century, and among amateurs - with the advent of chainsaws in everyday life.

Disk

A saw blade from a circular saw will not fit into a sawmill: it is made of steel of poorer quality than required in this case. When sawing raw logs, the disk material from the circular saw will soon release itself due to heating, the disk will quickly fail or be completely blown apart. That's why saw blade For a sawmill, the pleasure is not cheap. In some sources you can find advice: they say, cut out a round piece from galvanized (!) or duralumin (!!!), attach 2-4 teeth to it, and saw. Judging by the fact that the authors of publications of this kind seem to be alive and not mutilated, they themselves did not do this and have no idea what could come of it.

Disc sawing of wood is widespread in professional woodworking because... allows you to cut several pieces of measured lumber from timber in one pass; For this purpose, angle and multi-disc saw carriages are used (inset at the top left of the figure). However, an industrial circular sawmill is a complex structure, see Fig., which does not work on the “do-it-yourself” topic.

If an amateur gets a sawmill blade (diameter from 600 mm, tooth profile the same as that of a rip saw, see above), he needs to keep in mind the following advantages and disadvantages:

• Long resource – up to 5000 hours or more; up to 1500-2000 hours between teeth regrinding.
• To sharpen, you definitely need a sharpening machine; you can’t do it by hand.
• The cut is not very even, 3-5 mm wide, i.e. material waste up to 10-12% by volume. A “clean cut” disc, which produces a waste of 2-5%, costs 3-10 times more than a simple one.
• You can cut without any technical breaks for 6 hours. shift; Maximum performance in this class of devices.
• High energy consumption, because the disc rubs against the tree both vertically and horizontally in a cut with the side surface of a large area. To obtain the required drive power in kW, multiply the diameter of the log in dm by 1.7.
• The quality and condition of the sawmill being processed have virtually no effect on the productivity of the sawmill.
• A disk with a diameter of 800 mm can cut a log with a diameter of up to 350 mm.
• Larger diameter discs in amateur designs are very dangerous, because... require a high-precision drive to avoid runout.
• The drive is only electric, because The disk should rotate absolutely smoothly at idle. In the tree he’s already got more than enough tugs.

In general, a DIY circular sawmill is definitely not an option. Let's look at the drawings in Fig. below. The first thing that catches your eye on the left is the carriage on rollers in channel rails. This is not a rail track made of milled profiles: a 1-2 mm misalignment of the rollers when moving the carriage is inevitable. The consequence is a disk misalignment of 6 mm or more. Right there he gets stuck in a tree. Considering the mass of the disk, its rotation speed and moment of inertia, the occurrence of an emergency and extremely traumatic situation is inevitable.

Next, the lower edge of the disk must fit into the groove of the log carriage, otherwise it will not finish cutting it to the end. And so, we sawed off the first top. What's next? In theory, you need several grooves in the carriage, depending on the thickness of the resulting boards. After each cut, either the carriage is raised, moved forward and lowered back to the working position, or the carriage with the log must be moved under it in the same way. Can you imagine such a design made at home? No need, your head will hurt a lot.

What if it’s simple? Just move the log on the carriage? No, it's not easy. It must be laid again so that the next cut runs exactly parallel to the previous one. And on the carriage there’s not a stick, there’s a huge, heavy block of wood.

Well, let’s say we have a strong family/staff, we don’t care about moving logs, and the loss of productivity due to this is acceptable. Then look at what is marked in red in the drawing on the right in Fig. Yes, this is a log holder. Without it, it will either roll off the carriage, or tip over when 2-3 blocks are sawed off (unedged boards of the entire timber for cutting into measuring boards). The holder is located in the very middle of the log. You can't cut on it. In total, the most valuable, wide, strong and most evenly drying core block will most likely go to waste, because Due to the repositioning of the log, the thickness will be unacceptably converging on a wedge.

Note: an amateur single-disc sawmill for horizontal sawing is no more convenient or more productive than a vertical one, but its design is much more complex and dangerous.

So, making a circular sawmill with your own hands is an option in one and only case: if you have come up with an improvement to it that is a commercially promising invention and you need to test the idea in hardware in order to apply for a patent. In all other cases, it’s not necessary.

Band saw

The band sawmill is one of the inventions that gives significant results with trivial technical solutions. The reciprocating rip saw has a lot of advantages, and its disadvantages are due most of all to the presence of reverse motion. This means that you need to get rid of it in order to get a continuous saw blade. As a result, the operational properties of the band sawmill differ significantly from those of the prototype and machines for similar purposes:

1. Productivity – up to average, 2-3 cubic meters. m of wood per shift.
2. Saws both seasoned and raw freshly chopped round timber.
3. The cleanliness of the cut is as high as that of a rip saw blade, and the material waste is just as low.
4. The cutting accuracy is as high as that of a circular sawmill, provided that the saw blade tension is uniform and optimal.
5. It is impossible to saw logs immediately into pieces of measured materials.
6. Energy consumption per 1 cubic meter m of wood is 1.2-1.5 times lower than that of a circular sawmill.
7. To avoid self-release of the tape material, technical breaks in work are necessary: ​​after each wash for 5-10 minutes; after sawing 0.5 cu. m (2 logs with a diameter of 0.3 m and 6 m long) – 10-15 minutes; after 2 hours of work – half an hour to an hour; from 6 hour shift to next. the same - at least 2 hours.
8. The full resource of the working body (belt) is 100-500 hours; re-sharpening is not possible.
9. The cost of the tape per hour of work is much less than that of a simple saw blade.
10. The cost of the entire machine is several times less than a disk machine with an angular carriage per cut.
11. The drive is electric, because The idle speed of the belt needs to be as high as for a disk.

Due to these features, the band sawmill is most widely used in small sawmills. According to most advertisements: “We accept round logs/logs for sawing,” it is band sawmills that work. In Russia, band sawmills are produced in a fairly wide range (Taiga, etc.).

The simplest way to make a rip saw is to roll the blade into a ring and place it on pulleys, pos. 1 on next Fig.. To prevent injury from the non-working branch of the blade, a protective cover is put on the working part. Making a sawmill with a belt without it (item 2) is extremely dangerous!

The second stumbling block for DIYers here is the belt pulleys. The branded ones have a special slightly convex profile of the side surface (working surface). The belt slides off the cylindrical pulley; flanges (edges) do not help. Some craftsmen tilt the entire sawing unit upward by 1-3 degrees. However, as soon as the tension of the tape weakens (which is possible during one cut), the tape will fly off from above; without a protective cover, this is even more dangerous than sliding down.

Smarter craftsmen have found a way out: they put the tape on the wheels of cars and motorcycles with tires, pos. 3 in Fig. and rice at first. Their profile almost exactly matches the required one, and the elasticity of the tightly inflated chambers ensures optimal belt tension, at least enough to cut a whole log. In addition, if thin, high-quality materials are being sawed, then you can get by with a simple friction drive, also pos. 3 fig. on right. The manufacture of the machine is also simplified, because auto-moto wheels are already quite balanced, see video:

Video: DIY band sawmill

Transfer to saw

When sawing raw, untreated logs and knotty/twisty and sticky fine-grained wood, the transmission from the drive to the belt (the main one) is also a stumbling block. The mechanical characteristics of the belt are too soft: the belt is elastic and can slip. Gear gear, on the contrary, is too rigid: for a moment before jamming, the gears give a sharp, strong jerk. In both cases, it is very likely that the tape will get stuck in the tree and become crushed, which immediately creates a dangerous situation.

The best final drive for a band sawmill is a chain drive. It provides idle speed of the belt almost as smooth as a belt one. And when sawing “bad” wood, the chain’s own inertia pulls the tape with small, frequent jerks, and the inhomogeneities of the wood are successfully overcome. The same property of chain transmission is used, for example. in screw wood splitters.

Chain instead of tape

The working body of a chain sawmill is a chain with saw teeth stretched on rollers. Its operational strength, service life and reliability (not prone to getting stuck on wood defects) are several times greater than tapes, and the cost per cut length before wear is lower. The saw chain can be re-sharpened (you need a sharpening machine!) and does not require any technical breaks during the shift. The drive can be energy-independent from a 1-2 cylinder 2-stroke internal combustion engine: the saw chain itself dampens its vibrations. In terms of safety, the chain sawmill is the best in this segment of production equipment.

Disadvantages: firstly, increased energy consumption compared to tape - the chain casing rubs against wood, although not as much as the disk. The second is a wide (4-6 mm or more) rather ragged cut: lumber from a chain sawmill needs sanding (that’s why a surface grinder is not often built into it) or will be sold as a second grade. Consequence: increased material waste, up to 15% by volume. Third, in continuous operation it is necessary to supply coolant (cutting fluid, emulsion) to the saw chain, see fig. The fourth is a long technical break between shifts for self-healing of the chain properties: at least 10 hours. And, finally, the high labor intensity of maintenance: re-sharpening and/or replacement of chain teeth is required every 10-50 hours of work, and fiddling with them - mom, don’t worry!

Due to these circumstances, chain sawmills are used primarily. for primary sawing of timber at stock exchanges and harvesting sites. In the latter case, the energy independence of the machine with an internal combustion engine plays a decisive role: it is brought in by truck or tractor, the wood is unraveled onto the blocks and taken away. In remote regions of the Russian Federation and Canada, wood losses are often more than compensated by savings on round timber transportation by timber trucks. But this approach, of course, does not benefit the forest as a living community. Both from excessive cutting and from clogging with sawdust.

New tire

Continuous saw bar is cantilever chain Saw, i.e. does not require tension at the end farthest from the drive; it also does not require coolant supply. Do you recognize? This is the “blade” of the chainsaw. Application modern materials and continuous improvement of the design made it possible to create chainsaws that are suitable in all respects for domestic use. A sawmill made from a chainsaw at home is also much easier to make than any other; drawings of a frame with rails and a log holder can be taken, and carriages for a household chainsaw. Its performance qualities and features (except for the resource) will be approx. the same as for a chain sawmill. Changeover from horizontal to vertical cutting is carried out simply by rearranging the carriage. But please note:

• The service life of the saw motor will be reduced by approx. doubled.
• Full canvas resource best models will be no more than 20-30 hours, and cheap ones - 10-12 hours.
• Every 2-3 hours you will need to re-sharpen, and every 4-6 hours you will need to replace the teeth (if possible for this sample).
• The total operating time during the day is 2-3 hours.
• Maintenance break until next shift – from 12 hours.
• The saw must be designed for both transverse and longitudinal cuts.

The last circumstance, as Comrade Sukhov would say, is a delicate matter. Models from leading manufacturers (Stihl, for example) have both cuts provided by default, but the resource for the longitudinal one is given for normal use: 15 minutes of work, half an hour of rest. It is impossible to withstand it in a sawmill, because... You cannot stop the carriage while cutting is in progress. In this case, the resource of the saw bar is reduced by half or three times. “Alternative” manufacturers often have the opposite: the default saw is only a cross-cut saw. If the user manual says “transverse and longitudinal”, “also longitudinal”, etc., then the resource for a longitudinal cut is not specified. Keep in mind.

Special continuous saw bars are produced for sawmills. Due to the refusal of a transverse cut, their offset (length) is greater, up to 1000-1200 mm, the cut is thinner (3-4 mm) and cleaner; virtually the same as a band saw. Resource and mode of use - same as saw chain. A sawmill with a tire can be conventional design(on the left in the figure), but in the context of homemade ones, the Logosol-type tire sawmill, center-right in the figure, is of much greater interest. Spring edge supports keep the log from rolling away. The elevators are adjusted separately, which allows you to level the log horizontally.

The history of Logosol is interesting and inextricably linked with ours. In the USSR, since the 30s, the export of unprocessed wood was strictly regulated and produced in large quantities through established channels. After its collapse, the former Soviet republics, which had forest reserves, literally flooded Europe with cheap round timber, with standards equal to the size of a log. In the EU, the main domestic logging is carried out in Germany and Switzerland in the Alps. There are plenty of smart woodworkers here and there, and they are accustomed to working with an acute shortage of raw materials. Given the prices for timber there, calculating the income from the purchase of wild timber and sawing it into boards in one’s yard gave results that made one’s eyes pop. Plus - there is no headache with disposal of sawdust, but there is a significant additional benefit from selling it. It was then that the Swiss Bengt-Olof Byström came up with a sawmill, which he called Logosol. Its highlight is the replacement of a technologically complex rail track with a smooth guide along which the carriage is moved manually with a clamp. This requires more labor and some skill, but the design of the sawmill is greatly simplified, and its cost drops significantly. Hobbyists have developed many modifications of Byström's undoubtedly successful design. Their drawings of Logosols and components for them can be openly taken from here: //www.logosol.su/files.htm. How to make a Logosol sawmill with your own hands, see the video:

Video: DIY mobile-stationary Logosol “Terya”

The emergence of Logosol is the direct reason for the development and saw bars for sawmills. There are models available for sale that are compatible with household chainsaws: remove the standard blade and install the bar. Thus, the issue with the cost and labor intensity of the drive was resolved: a chainsaw on the farm is already a necessary thing.

Mini

A further development of Logosol’s idea is a mini sawmill without a frame, guide and rails, see fig. on right. Instead of a guide, an existing saw cut is used; With careful manual sawing, its accuracy within the log is maintained. In this case, in addition to the tire and drive, only the support platform and handles for holding and moving remain on the carriage.

The pioneer cut is made according to a template (a flat board, top right in the figure), a channel, a frame from an angle, etc., longer than a log. Subsequent horizontal ones are the same as the previous one, in the center on the right. If a vertical cut is necessary, place a channel (bottom right), because in this case, a flat lateral supporting surface is needed. However, all this does not eliminate the last problems: installing the log on the carriage, leveling it and holding it.

Carriage, grips, clamps

There remains such a problem as a frame with additional components. The one on pos. 1 pic. the left is far from optimal. For one-time sawing for self-construction, it is too complex and expensive. It is also not suitable for long-term regular use: even if the supporting frame is made of a 200 mm channel, it will not sag after the first or second dozen logs, which means the machine is completely unsuitable. A stationary sawmill should be made with separate concrete rail tracks and a carriage for logs (item 2; in this case we will not focus on safety precautions - the topic of this article is different).

The next tasks are leveling and holding the log. In industrial woodworking, hydraulic jacks with hooks are used for this purpose. The log is hung on the hoist, lowered onto the carriage without touching it, the jacks turn on and grab it tightly. In automated carriages, a log is placed on it and hydraulics, based on sensor signals, immediately levels the timber.

In amateur conditions, the first is not feasible; the second is in no way feasible. In many homemade sawmills, log grippers are made as shown in Fig. below. The log is hung on automatic jacks (see below), hooks are brought to it, sliding along a guide (pipe, thick rod). The hooks are tapped with a hammer according to the principle of “lightly tapping with a sledgehammer”, they are wedged on the guides and hold the log.

Firstly, such fastening is simply dangerous: vibrations during sawing can cause the grips to become wedged, and this is an accident most likely with serious consequences. Secondly, it is impossible to grab the wood by the very “bottom” in this way. This means that you will have to turn the log over before finishing it halfway. As a result, the cutting quality and material waste will be the same as on a vertical single-disc sawmill, see above.

Carriage

Let's try to develop technical requirements for a log carriage suitable, incl. for use with a portable mini sawmill when working on the road:

1. materials – ordinary rolled metal without preliminary screening for evenness;
2. for strength, reliability and durability - welded;
3. the influence of the quality of welding and warping of the metal from it on the quality of sawing is absent;
4. prepared base (support) surface – not required;
5. weight and dimensions - suitable for transportation in a mini-truck, pickup truck and on the top trunk of a car;
6. the maximum length of the processed log is 6 m;
7. its maximum diameter is up to 1 m;
8. leveling and hanging the log - in any way independent of the carriage, see below;
9. the influence of the flatness of the carriage along the horizon on the quality of sawing - no;
10. the reliability of holding the most clumsy, unrooted forest is absolute;
11. the ability to dismantle the sawn blocks into edged measuring boards/beams without readjusting the sawmill - a must;
12. security – sufficient for non-production conditions, when access to the site of untrained outsiders is easily controlled.

Drawings of a log carriage for a sawmill, incl. minis that satisfy the specified conditions are shown in Fig. (left/center – top view). Material – channel 120x60, rod 14 and 16 mm.

Exactly under the M14 holes in the upper flange of the channel, D15 holes are drilled in the lower flange for the passage of the shanks of the hook holders (on the right in the figure). The M16 holes in the bottom shelf (marked in green) are for threaded feet. The plan configuration and location of the grip holders make it possible to reliably hold both full-length logs and short logs. Use this carriage like this:

• the log is hung and leveled on a pair of auto jacks. An option is to use one jack at a time: put something suitable under the raised end, rearrange the jack and lift the other one;
• the carriage is slipped under the middle of the log with the widened part towards the butt and aligned along the axis of the timber. If the log was hung on a hoist, then the middle pair of legs should fall under its center of gravity;
• the holder hooks are turned out until they touch the log so that their points look inward exactly at each other. A slip by one turn (by M14 thread pitch) does not affect the cutting accuracy;
• the log is lowered onto the hooks. If the timber was hung on one jack and a support, then first release the jack, and then knock out the support with one sharp blow;
• to securely hold a thin light log, you can sit on it and jump;
• saw the log using any sawmill using horizontal cuts. The thickness of the last slab in the vast majority will not exceed 40 mm.

Clamps

Full functionality of this carriage will be ensured by 2-5 clamps (3 are almost always enough) for sawing blocks into dimensional lumber. The design of the clamp to the log carriage is clear from Fig. below. The clamps are bolted into the standard holes of the M14 carriage, so their bases and the distances between the axes of the mounting holes are different: unlike the hook holders, the clamps are not interchangeable! Before dissolving into boards/beams, the logs are first sawn into blocks. Then the blocks are sorted and collected into packages of blocks of a similar configuration to each other. The next package is clamped with clamps on a gun carriage and cut into boards/beams using horizontal cuts.

Bottom line

Let’s take a look, as they say, at a grandma: what kind of sawmill to make with your own hands and in what cases does it make sense.

If you see a range of clients for sawing and/or see a stable income from the sale of lumber - a band on motor-wheels. It will last at least until you have enough money to buy a “new, good” factory one. Then it will be possible to open a sawmill in its entirety and calmly work legally. If sawing wood is a side hustle for you, the Logosol sawmill will perform better - it is less productive, but structurally simpler and cheaper, and a chainsaw will come in handy on the farm anyway.

The need for treated wood today, despite the many different materials available, is not decreasing and is unlikely to decrease in the coming years. Therefore, the availability of a sawmill for large and small workshops currently plays a very important role.

The band sawmill is an indispensable tool for wood processing and construction from this material.

But not everyone and not always can buy a similar machine made at the factory. And what should you do if you need to have it on hand? sufficient quantity boards or timber? In fact, there is a way out. This is a DIY band sawmill.

This option is quite realistic, since the manufacture of this equipment, although it requires certain skills and experience, is not too difficult. The main thing in this case is to gain certain knowledge.

Thus, it is now necessary to find out what and how one of the simplest types of cutting machines is created - a band sawmill.

Materials, tools and equipment necessary for assembling the sawmill

Making a homemade cutting device will require the following components:

• pulleys (diameter - at least 30 cm);
• half-inch pipes;
• metal corner (size 50 mm);
• profile pipe (size 25x25 mm);
• channel.

A high-quality band sawmill can be made using tools and equipment such as:

• welding machine;
• milling machine;
• electric drill;
• “grinder” with a set of cutting discs;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• clamp;
• hacksaw for metal;
• Screwdriver Set;
• set of wrenches;
• control and measuring devices (ruler, square, measuring tape);
• fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws, washers).

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The principle of operation of the sawmill

In order to assemble the device we are considering in accordance with all the rules and ultimately obtain a high-quality woodworking machine, it is useful to know the basic technological principle on the basis of which almost all band sawmills operate.

It can be described very briefly. The log (or any semi-finished wood product) that is to be sawed is placed on the working platform and fixed. Like the foundation itself, wooden blank remains motionless throughout the entire cutting cycle into boards or bars. A mobile structure with a cutting unit installed on it moves along rails and special guides along the log in both directions, which cuts the workpiece into specified dimensional lumber.

Direct cutting is carried out using a saw blade, which circulates under tension between two pulleys mounted on a movable frame.

The configuration and dimensions of the boards or bars are initially determined by the sawmill operator. An even, straight cutting line is ensured by sufficient great strength tension of the saw blade between the driving and driven pulleys.

The full cycle of sawing raw workpieces includes 3 cycles:

1. Pre-processing of workpieces for cutting. The logs prepared for this purpose are sorted by size. To adjust the parameters, they are cut with a chainsaw or a hacksaw.
2. Direct sawing of wood material. The sawmill operator configures the equipment. After this, sawing is carried out according to the specified pattern.
3. Finishing processing of the resulting lumber. After sawmill operation, small errors may remain on the boards or bars. In this case, the machine is not used, minor defects are eliminated manually by the operator.

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Band sawmill: components and parts

The equipment considered in this case operates according to a block diagram. This principle allows the structure to be expanded with additional or improved components and devices.

The structure of the sawmill consists of such basic elements as:

• frame with guides (2 pcs.) for moving the saw blade;
• rail pair for moving the saw cart;
• screw lifting mechanism, moving the tape;
• spring (hydraulic) belt tension unit;
• 2 pulleys, driving and driven;
• casing for enclosing pulleys;
• tape clamp;
• V-belt transmission;
• Electrical engine;
• system of eccentric clamps for the processed log;
• stops;
• coolant reservoir.

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Do-it-yourself band sawmill: manufacturing procedure

The manufacture of the machine begins with the creation of a sawmill frame. It is made from two channels 8 m long and more than 14 cm high. If there are no channels, you can take two rails under the frame (the soles should be on top) or metal corners measuring 50x100 mm.

Holes are drilled along the length of the channels at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. After this, the channels are pulled together by sections of pipe ¾ 25 cm long. The pipes are fastened to the channels using threaded rods or bolts of appropriate sizes.

The guide structure assembled in this way is installed on the racks. The racks themselves are also made by welding or threaded assembly from channels (in their absence, from angles or pipes). The number of these structural elements depends on the length of the assembled frame. For example, an 8-meter bed will require approximately 4 posts. When installing them, it is necessary to ensure that the outermost ones are at a distance of 80-100 cm from the ends of the guides. In addition, the design of the frame should be made sufficiently rigid, for which it is equipped with braces.

After this, they begin to assemble the mobile cart. Typically, the material for its manufacture is a steel plate with a thickness of 46 mm. The dimensions of the metal blank for the trolley must be selected in such a way that the resulting movable unit is approximately 60 cm long. The width of the movable structure depends on the width of the frame and should be such that the edges of the trolley protrude beyond the channels by approximately 8 cm on each side.

Then you should think about how to move along the frame of the mobile cart with an electric motor mounted on it and circular saw. The direction and speed of movement are set by a special steering wheel, which is installed on the side of the sawmill body. The steering wheel is connected to the bushing of one of the sprockets located on the sides of the guides.

A metal chain is used to move the entire structure. To avoid free play at the steering wheel, the chain must be tensioned in accordance with the technical requirements.

In order to ensure High Quality of the resulting lumber, as well as to create conditions convenient for the operator for sawing wood, the band sawmill must be equipped with special device for fixing the log in a stationary state. Metal pipes with an internal diameter of approximately 35-40 mm are well suited for such a device.

Movable rods are inserted inside these pipes, and special clamps made of a metal angle measuring 40x40 mm and clamping cam mechanisms are installed on top of the pipes. It should be borne in mind that for reliable fixation of the processed logs, the length of the clamping elements cannot be less than 15 mm.

Finally, it’s time to select the main components of any sawmill - the saw and the electric motor. Meanwhile, experienced workers advise doing this at the very beginning of the cutting machine manufacturing process. The fact is that the dimensions of the entire saw system generally depend on the technical parameters of these components.

Since the power unit and saw can only be purchased ready-made and with certain technical characteristics, when purchasing in a store you should pay attention to electric motors with a power of 10 kW and saws with a diameter of 1 m. Such parameters can ensure maximum operating efficiency of the future machine. If a motor and a saw with these characteristics could not be found, then the frame must be made somewhat smaller in size.

Wood is widely used building material, especially for suburban housing construction. And very often, various types of sawmills come to the aid of builders. Today we will look at what a homemade band sawmill is, which can process wood of different species.

You will see a video of a homemade band sawmill on the topic of its assembly and learn what the advantages of this device are and how to make it at home.

Advantages of a homemade band sawmill

The band sawmill is universal in terms of the fact that it can work with different tree species and process them into products such as:

• veneer;
• boards;
• bars;
• shields;
• furniture accessories, etc.

Homemade sawmill belt type weighs on average one and a half times more than the material being processed, so the workpieces with its help are high-quality and durable.

Sawing wood on a band sawmill is much easier than on other types of this unit. Thus, sawing can be performed taking into account the characteristics of each wood, and the amount of sawdust will be minimal.

Band sawmills have the following advantages:

To make a homemade band sawmill, you The following parts will be required:

• rails;
• steel corners;
• channels;
• bolts;
• pipes;
• electric drill;
• clamping plates;
• boards or bars;
• hairpins;
• braces;
• chains.

To have a clear idea of ​​the process of assembling a band-type sawmill with your own hands, we recommend watching a video on this topic.

Unit design features

You need to know the design of a band sawmill if you are going to assemble it yourself. Her the scheme is organized according to the block principle, which allows for different layouts. At the same time, it may be simpler, or it may be more complex. Complex design includes automatic feeding saw, a device for determining cutting thickness, current load, as well as elements for feeding saw logs and others.

The nodes of the band sawmill are as follows:

The frame of the sawmill consists from several welded soles where the rollers are located. The frame in the shape of the letter “P” consists of channels placed parallel and fastened to each other. The driving pulley is mounted on the end of the frame, and the driven movable pulley is mounted opposite, respectively.

In the middle of the frame there are collapsible type guides on brackets. They include several sections and are easy to transport. At the bottom there are support rollers where the anchor bolts are screwed in, and at the top there are log supports. The guides are attached using a channel beam where the coupling device is located. It also helps to move the sawing device. The log is secured to the rails using screw clamps and stops.

Mechanism of sawmill and rails allows you to adjust the logs along the width of mutually placed guides, even if the frame is damaged. The guides are hung so that they do not depend on each other, so if a large log falls, the frame will remain intact. And to make the rails longer, you need to attach a section to them.

For cutting and processing wood, a saw with a width of 60 mm or less is used. And the saw of the band sawmill is tensioned by means of a spring-screw mechanism. There are locks in the front beam and driven pulley sliders to help you install and remove the saw band.

What should you consider before assembly?

Before work, consider the following nuances:

Stages of assembling a homemade band sawmill

For the base of the sawmill frame we will need channels 8 m long and 140 mm high. You can use several rails with the sole facing up, as well as steel corners measuring 50 by 100 mm. All workpieces must be straight.

The work stages will be as follows:

• drill a small number of holes at a height of about one and a half meters along the entire length of the channels. In the same quantity, make ties from pipe sections 250 mm long. To fasten the channels and ties, take threaded rods or bolts about 300 mm long;
• mount the guides on racks assembled from channels and bolted together. The number of racks depends on the length of the bed. If it is 8 meters, then there should be 4 of them. They need to be placed 100 cm from the end of the guides;
• To give the frame additional strength, install braces. The structure is assembled on site because it has an impressive weight. To give the guides a horizontal direction, you need to place bars or boards under the racks. Also, if necessary, you can dig up the soil;
• We assemble a movable cart based on a metal plate 45 mm thick. Its length should be about 60 cm, and the final calculations depend on the dimensions of the electric motor. The width should be such that the edges of the trolley extend beyond the channels on all sides by approximately 80 mm. Plates and spacers of varying thickness will help move the cart along the length of the guides;
• When assembling the sawmill, make sure that the gap is as small as possible. Also, the gaskets should be approximately 0.5 mm thicker than the channel flanges. The gaskets and clamping plates are attached to each other using special bolts. And in order to prevent lateral play, plates from the bolt side must be screwed to the base of the trolley;
• The trolley can also be installed on bearings, and at the top of it you need to place corners for attaching an electric motor.

Installation of key components of a band sawmill

To move the trolley with a circular saw together with the engine, you will need a special chain. It is tightened in order to eliminate free play, which is installed on one of the bushings on the sprockets along the edges of the guides.

One of the advantages of a homemade band sawmill is the provision of comfortable work by equipping it with a mechanism for securing logs. Such mechanisms are made on the basis of pipes with a diameter of about 40 mm. We insert movable rods into these pipes, at the top we place clamps based on an angle measuring 40 by 40 mm and cam clamping devices. In relation to the existing distance to the sawing line, the length of the clamps should be from 15 mm.

Install the main components of the sawmill:

• electric motor;
• file

It is advisable to purchase an electric motor with a power of 10 kW for the device, and the file should have a diameter of one meter. If you cannot find these elements according to the given parameters, then the bed should be smaller. remember, that component size influences the size of the future sawmill.

As you can see, assembling a band sawmill with your own hands is not so difficult if you understand the design features of this device and have on hand all the necessary components for work. And its high-quality implementation is the key to successful operation of the device.

This reliable and time-tested human assistant is necessary in construction, during various works on a private house, and in the country. Home craftsmen often make a band sawmill with their own hands. It is used for cutting and cutting various materials, most often wood.

Types of tapes

A competent approach to choosing equipment for sawing work is required. To avoid problems during operation, you must correctly take into account specifications, permissible scope of application, tool capabilities. Not the least important role is played by the parameters of the teeth, the size of the blade and the quality of sharpening the cutting edge.

The variety of saws can confuse even experienced craftsman. Depending on what they process, they are usually divided into types. It could be:

1. Wood processing.
2. Stone cutting.
3. Metal works.
4. Sawing synthetic material.

When working with metal or stone, you need to use a tool that contains heavy-duty alloys. Otherwise, there may be cases of breakdown, defective processing of parts, or rupture of the cutting blade. Before assembling or purchasing such equipment yourself, you need to decide on the main work tasks and assess the amount of work to be done.

If it is necessary to carry out a significant amount of work in various directions involving the use of wood and boards, then sawing will have to be used. To do this, you will need both logs and a processing tool - a sawmill.

Preparing to assemble the sawmill

Of course, nowadays you can purchase already ready materials, and an industrial factory band sawmill. But this is often associated with large financial costs. It is more profitable and practical to assemble a band saw according to ready-made drawings with my own hands. This is especially true if you have a private house or garage. In this case, a sawmill is justified in domestic conditions.

To assemble your own sawmill you need to have drawings, a cutting blade, some parts and study a little theory. The diagram should reflect the dimensions and materials used.

Selecting Tool Size

The length and width of the saw depend on the corresponding machine parameters. To clarify, you need to use recommendations and instructions for the machine, as well as drawings of a band saw for wood with your own hands.

Teeth setting value

Tooth pitch is the distance between the sharp edges of the saw. For correct and effective use the tool must adhere to the general rules:

• When processing thin material, a saw with large teeth is required. In this case, the tooth pitch must be uniform.
• If the cutting surface is long, then a constant frequent step should be suitable for cutting.
• To cut natural or synthetic blades, blades with variable teeth are needed. When working with a soft structure, such a saw will not clog and the speed of work will increase.

The quality of cutting depends on the alignment of the teeth. The better the wiring, the lower the vibration level and the longer the saw itself will last:

Before purchasing a specific saw, you need to find out whether it is possible to resharpen it and how many cycles the blade material can withstand.

In accordance with the material, there is the following classification of paintings:

Making a homemade device

The main elements of a homemade sawmill are a frame, a motor and, in fact, a saw. Motors with a power of 10 kW have proven themselves well. The power of such an engine allows you to cut almost any logs.

The gasoline engine must fit into the body of a homemade wood band saw. The drawings must indicate acceptable parameters.

To make a homemade band saw, you will need the following materials:

The pulleys for making a homemade band sawmill are suitable for any type of equipment. Their required diameter is about thirty centimeters.

From metal pipes guides are made. Several half-inch diameter pipes and a few slightly larger ones. In this case, pipes of a larger diameter fit freely onto pipes of a smaller one with a gap of approximately 0.5 millimeters.

Tool needed:

• Welding machine.
• Sharpening machine and cutting machine.
• Screwdriver, .
• Hammer.
• Bulgarian.

You may also need a milling machine or welding machine.

Before starting work, you need to study the drawings of the circular sawmill with your own hands. A good drawing contributes to the rapid production of a sawmill. You need to make sure you have all the necessary parts.

Self-connection of parts

After a thorough preparatory process, the assembly of the device begins. It is important to take your time and carefully check the quality of the connections of the parts.

The assembly of a homemade band saw begins with the manufacture of a table with a cabinet. The mechanism will be located on this table. To assemble it you will need wooden blocks, furniture board. The convenient height of the table and the diameter of the pulleys are calculated in advance. The table should be comfortable and accommodate the pulleys and motor.

Should fit on the table necessary tools and have a place to collect shavings. It is advisable to immediately think about a waste tray. Cleaning the saw will be easier and more convenient.

If there are no ready-made ones, then you need to make homemade pulleys. They can be cut from plywood. Then the workpieces are polished and coated epoxy resin. A hole for the roller bearings is drilled in the center of the pulley. For stability, the bearing itself is fixed in a textolite coupling. After this, the wheels are covered with tape rubber. The diameter of the pulleys can be arbitrary. However, the larger the pulley diameter, the longer term saw service.

The blade depends on the size of the pulley. A very good ratio is 1/1000 of the saw blade to the pulley diameter. In other words, if you have a pulley with a diameter of forty centimeters, then a four-millimeter tape will do. When installing the pulley, it is necessary to ensure that the bearing shaft is perpendicular. Even with a slight deviation, the wheel will run out, causing the belt to jump off.

The next step is assembling the support frame. The entire device will be mounted on it. The frame is made from an angle channel and can have C-shape. This shape holds the tape perfectly. A metal axle is put on the channel. The frame or bed is the most important part of the structure.

Pulleys are mounted on the axle using bushings. After which, they achieve their balance. A damper is used against belt vibration. Attach moving parts to the engine. It must be borne in mind that the average speed of rotation of a band saw is from 700 to 900 revolutions per minute. This parameter must be taken into account when calculating the diameter of the drive pulleys.

It is best to put a protective cover on the engine. It will protect the drive mechanism from fine dust and chips.

To make it easier to feed the material being processed, metal corners are attached. They create a guiding mechanism.

Wooden parts must be planed, painted or varnished. On the one hand, this is aesthetically pleasing and extends the service life of the product, and on the other hand, it protects the hands of the worker from splinters made from untreated wood. Before painting, the wood is cleaned with fine sandpaper and treated with liquids that prevent the wood from rotting.

Setting, checking and sharpening

Before starting work, be sure to check and configure the device. You need to make sure that the tape forms a right angle. The slightest deviation can damage the machine and even cause injury. Using a driven pulley, the belt is tensioned. Achieve maximum tension on the cutting tape.

Sharpening of band blades is simple and affordable. The technology has been tested by many masters. You need a special machine and a little patience. First, the initial sharpening is carried out, that is, the symmetry is restored, the saw teeth are aligned, and the small cracks on the edges. Then the saw is cleaned of dust and metal filings and the saw is set, restoring the rear and front angles.

The final step is the final sharpening. It is this that gives the teeth the necessary sharpness and eliminates various distortions.

Rules of use and safety precautions

After manufacturing and setting up, you can use the sawmill in work, observing certain rules and safety precautions.

It must be remembered that the canvas can tear, burst or come off. Therefore, if you have doubts about the reliability of the fastening, it is better to stay at some distance from the equipment.

Exist following rules operation of the electric saw:

As a result correct assembly the tool you need on the farm will appear, assembled according to the drawings of a band sawmill with your own hands. With a little skill, working with it is convenient and easy. The original cutting material is transported by trolley. The saw material is placed on the bed, fixed, and the log or other material is processed using a saw.

A homemade band saw needs care and regular checks. If fasteners fail or become loose, it is better to stop work and correct any deficiencies noticed. When operating the device, you must be careful and careful.