Scaffolding yourself when assembling a house from timber. How to make a log house from timber with your own hands - assembly technology from foundation to roof

One of the most popular services in the construction market today is the assembly of a log house. This technology is used to build not only private houses, but also bathhouses, as well as utility buildings. They turn out warm and attractive to look at.

If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some people prefer to leave the walls in their original form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from profiled timber with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.

Main stages

When assembling a house, you need to remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of installing natural humidity units. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if a material of natural moisture is used. The dried log shrinks by about 9 cm.

The assembly is divided into several stages. At first, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is built. The main stage is the assembly of the log house. The final work is the installation of the roof. After shrinkage, external and interior work.

The most important first crown

The technology for assembling a house from profiled timber involves paying attention to special attention the first crown. It represents one of the vulnerable points. This node will form the outline of the house. It is located closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which draws water from the ground into the water.

The first crown is shielded; this work involves separating it from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It is usually roofing material laid on a layer of bitumen mastic. There is a 100 mm lining beam on top, this is exactly its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled beam. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and wall material.

The backing beam must be made of larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting. In this case, the material must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from profiled timber is delivered to the building site, you can begin work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can begin installing the lower crown, which is a beam with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is placed on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.

The floor beams must be embedded into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown rots, there will be fewer problems with replacing it. It is better to make the first two crowns from larch.

The need to process timber

Work on assembling houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by treating the material with antiseptics. At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will only have the opportunity to process accessible sections of the walls.

Before laying the profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. This must be done before assembling the house. Antiseptic compounds can be “Senezh” and “Tikurilla”.

Carrying out insulation

After studying the instructions for assembling a house from profiled timber, you will learn that compaction is a mandatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of Finnish-style profiles involve laying jute tape along the beam, in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is to reduce the air flow through the walls. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.

Using dowels as a connection

Self-assembly houses made of profiled timber are accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. The products are oblong in shape and have a round or square section. The basis may be:

plastic;
metal;
wood.

If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden dowels are better than others. This fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that when the material dries, it does not deform and cracks do not form between the rims. The dowel will work on bending and will not allow the beam to bend.

If you decide to use dowels as fasteners, you can use some tips that will simplify the work. No more than two beams should be connected to each other. The pins are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.

The dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically at 1.5 beams. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. The dowel is hammered in with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from profiled timber, you should choose dowels whose length will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.

Assembly nuances: instructions for work

By purchasing a ready-made home assembly kit, you can install it yourself. Each link will be in its place, and glass slots will be made in the products. The work must be carried out according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation you must follow the diagram.

During the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each piece. When laying, each edge must coincide with the profile. If the grooves and tenons are not very complex, then sealing material is laid between the links. This increases thermal insulation characteristics walls

When assembling a house from profiled timber, it is important to ensure that the links are tightly connected to each other. If this rule is not followed, the walls will rot. If there are products with tongues and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The beams will have bowl cuts that connect the links to each other into an even masonry. If there are no bowls, you can cut them out using a mobile bowl cutter.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can begin roughing and finishing, as well as constructing the roof. At the same stage, they install entrance doors and windows. The subfloor is being installed. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then they do not need additional insulation and cladding. They will retain heat perfectly.

Whereas protective impregnation must be applied. This will keep the wood in excellent condition for many years. If you wish, you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture you can emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a rich shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling a house from profiled timber, you can also insulate it. This process usually involves:

tow;
glass wool boards;
mineral wool;
linen jute fabric.

Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect heat indoors. The presence of vapor insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which steals heat.

It is better not to use polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, as it will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which will ultimately cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth insulating walls with roofing felt, as well as with glassine, as well as plastic film. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

Finally

Assembling a house from profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to install the walls, guided by the Lego principle. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, plasterboard, hardboard or lining is usually used.

When installing a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated sheeting or ondulin. Metal tiles are excellent. Insulation in this case begins from the attic floor. Then the craftsmen move on to the roofing.

Environmental friendliness and high quality characteristics inherent in wooden house construction. Our grandfathers assembled entire towers from round timber, the beauty of which still inspires admiration. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid, a wooden frame is not afraid of fires and fungus. When installing on your own, it is easier to use timber of the correct shape. How to make a log house from timber with your own hands, the main stages of installation, rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.

Designing your home

Before assembling a house from timber, you need to choose the right project. Log houses are assembled according to standard or individual designs; they can differ in architectural complexity or have simple shapes. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, we recommend choosing standard project, which has advantages:

The log house has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main shortcomings.
The manufacturing material is used as economically as possible, so the price of the finished box is cheaper.
It’s easier to choose finishing materials and roofing, since you can see several finished houses and chat with the owners.

When choosing individual design the timber is the same suitable material. He has correct form and can be adjusted to any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to collect wooden boxes the most complex and unusual form.

By choosing timber of the required cross-section, any project can easily be adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. For a garden or country house, material with a small cross-section is suitable: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence timber with a cross section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The simplest option is a square section - 150x150 mm. The square shape allows you to quickly assemble the walls without selecting the technical and external sides. But provided that the beam is simple. In this case, the section 150x150 mm must be insulated.

One of the economical options is profiled material. The tenon and groove on the technical sides of the beam are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier to the wind. The walls are insulated using tape insulation directly during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally sanded, then after assembling the box you only need to walk along the walls paint and varnish material and the house is ready to move in.

A separate group is the log house made of laminated lumber. This beam consists of lamellas that are connected to each other under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists are still arguing about the environmental friendliness of laminated lumber. The positives stand out: high strength walls and elevated thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building from laminated veneer lumber suitable material section 100x100 mm, with winter temperature down to -15 degrees, additional wall insulation is not required.

When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further finishing work depends on this, which means additional material investments.

Where to start?

When the project is selected, the assembly of the log house begins. The foundation of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Because light material then any type of foundation will do:

Columnar;
Tape-grillage;
Tape.

We do not recommend monolithic, as this is the most expensive option, which will only be profitable if the soil is moving and very crumbling. For loose, high-lying soil groundwater pile or columnar foundation. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? Use wisely screw piles. They are easy to install with your own hands, and the log house will be less likely to “walk” in the future. But when choosing a columnar or pile foundation, you should understand that in the future the base of the house will have to be additionally surrounded by a frame and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and heat loss after insulating the basement will be reduced by 15%.

One of the most popular types of foundation for a wooden frame is strip foundation. It got its name from its resemblance to a concrete strip rolled out on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is related to the characteristics of groundwater.

At high level groundwater occurrence and freezing in winter by more than 1.2 m, a strip-grillage option can be used. The design combines a concrete strip, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. Moreover, the piles are poured first, then the formwork is made for the strip. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubic capacity of the foundation; this will reduce the cost of concrete.

The detailed technology for assembling a strip-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.

Lego for adults

The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in a sealed package, making it easier to assemble it yourself. From solid timber It is difficult to assemble your own house without experience and skills, as it requires the correct connection of corners. But more on that below.

Harness

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. The tree is hermetically sealed, and through microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work you will need materials: bitumen mastic(price from 350 rub.) and roofing felt (price from 220 rub.)

Waterproofing is performed as follows:

The top of the foundation is coated with hot bitumen mastic.
The first layer of roofing felt is rolled out on top. When joining, the material is overlapped.
The roofing material is again coated with bitumen mastic.
The finishing layer of roofing material is rolled out.

The width of the roofing felt should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing felt can later be hidden under the sheathing of the base.

First crown

The first crown of the log house is laid level on the dried waterproofing. The cross-section of the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.

The first crown of a log house is the most important in the structure, so to increase durability it is worth paying more for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time they acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and in 90% of cases is not suitable for construction.

Before laying, the first crown is covered with protective compounds (Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles/l). The first crown is laid on laid out slats or a backing board. The slats are laid in increments of 30–40 cm across the foundation strip, the boards are sewn to the base using metal pins. The slats are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the frame, which creates additional ventilation. The wooden frame is attached to the foundation using metal anchors. But the box is attached to the base only for lightweight designs. Big houses several floors is quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.

Folding the box

It’s not difficult to build a log house from a ready-made kit, but you’ll have to tinker with a solid beam. There are several options for corner connections of the beam with the rest and even ones:

Assembly in paw. Spikes and nests for them are cut out at the ends of the timber. It has disadvantages: it is blown out, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
IN dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. The downside is that it's difficult to drink.
Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below for the upper link. The upper crown fits into the bowl and creates an airtight connection. Cons: you will need skill and a special cup cutter.
Half a tree. Half of the section is cut out in each end part. The upper crown is placed in the resulting nest. Disadvantages: airflow and unreliable connection. To increase adhesion, a wood key is made to connect the ends.

A corner connection with a remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and timber are additionally connected to each other using dowels. Dowels are used wooden or metal. The latter option is more reliable, but when the log house dries out, cracks form in the walls and the metal pins spoil appearance Houses. Wooden dowels can be made independently from leftover lumber or birch. The dowels will give the structure additional strength and will prevent the timber from twisting when drying. Dowels are attached to every two crowns, skipping one, with a step of at least 150 cm.

Between each beam, jute insulation is rolled out (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then between the tenons and grooves there is a special groove for laying strip insulation. If beam connections along the length are needed, then a joint in the main tenon is used. The essence of the connection is in the tenon and groove cuts, which are securely connected and additionally secured with dowels.

The internal partitions in the log house do not need to be assembled immediately. They are made of a material with a smaller cross-section and are attached to the main walls. But if you are planning a two-story log house with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as additional support.

Subfloors can be laid immediately. They subsequently serve as the basis for the warm “pie” of the finished floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, polystyrene foam can serve as floor insulation. Most inexpensive option use polystyrene foam, it will provide additional sound insulation between floors.

It is not recommended to cut out window and door openings in a log house right away. The building must stand. Even chamber drying during the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural humidity at least 10%. Before inserting the frames, a socket is made, which will give the structure greater strength and prevent distortions from occurring during ground movement.

Choosing a roof and roofing

The rough roof is erected until complete shrinkage. If the timber chamber drying or glued, then the shrinkage is insignificant and you can start finishing the roof. Any material is suitable for roofing: corrugated sheeting, ondulin, soft tiles. The most economical option for garden houses- roofing felt or slate. The pitch of the sheathing will depend on the choice of roofing. How softer roof and the higher the roof, the more often the sheathing is done. For example, under soft tiles and the base is made of thin plywood.

The roof structure is selected individually. But the fewer bends and angles in the structure, the more reliable it will be. The simplest option is pitched roof or gable, they are assembled with their own hands.

The rafter system is assembled by laying the ceiling joists. A beam with a cross section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and frame of the rafter system are assembled from material with a section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is laid on the top of the wall. A beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm is used as a Mauerlat. The most difficult part of the installation is installing the first rafters and matrix. fasten rafter system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. The logs and the Mauerlat are connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.

The finished roof is insulated and waterproofed. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next we proceed to additional insulation and finishing. Complete shrinkage wooden house will give after three years. At this time, it is not recommended to carry out grandiose designer finishing work, but you can already live in the house.

How much?

As you know, the road can be mastered by those who walk, but the owner’s hands are not always sharpened for construction work, or the work eats up everything free time. Specialists will assemble the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of work will be high. The installation price will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard services for the installation of log cabins:

Full construction.
Easy assembly.

The service differs in the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (pouring, formwork), box assembly, rafter system, roofing, subfloors and ceiling, installation of windows and doorways, all internal partitions. Simple assembly may include individual works. For example, the foundation is made with your own hands, and the frame and rafter system are assembled by specialists.

The topic of this article is the installation of a house made of timber. In it we will not delve into the intricacies of individual stages of construction: our goal is to describe the order of the main work and give general recommendations by choosing one solution or another.

Construction is in full swing. Material: profiled timber.

Foundation

Taking into account the relatively low weight of log houses, lightweight and inexpensive types of foundations are usually used during their construction:

Columnar: pillars made of brick or ceramic blocks are buried 30-50 centimeters.
Tape shallow: a continuous reinforced concrete strip is laid at the same depth.

An important point: for building sizes over 6x6 meters ( standard length timber - exactly 6 meters) floor beams need additional support, which is usually one of the internal partitions. Accordingly, the foundation is laid not only under external walls, but also under loaded partitions or columns.

Antiseptic protection is mandatory; The preferred species is larch. The instructions are due to the fact that it is the grillage that is most susceptible to rotting.
Waterproofing is required between the tree and the foundation. A typical solution is two layers of roofing material.

On a strip foundation that does not require the construction of a grillage, the lower frame is laid first - again, preferably made of larch. And here, in most cases, timber of the same cross-section from which the walls will be assembled is used. The connection method in the corners is half-tree.
For a strip foundation, you can calculate the materials using a calculator:

Lags

For logs (they are also floor beams), a beam with a section of 100x150 millimeters is used. Since the direction of the load is from top to bottom, the beam cuts into the frame in a vertical position. Step - 0.9 - 1 meter.

On side surfaces The lag along the lower edge is filled with a mounting block with a section of 30x30 - 40x40 millimeters. In the future, a subfloor will be laid on it - the basis for laying insulation.

Walls

How to install a log frame with your own hands?

The timber (straight or profiled) is laid with jute and laid in such a way that the ends at the corners are staggered. Jute provides sealing of joints, compensating for uneven shrinkage of wood and preventing air from blowing through the walls.

Useful: from the point of view of protection against blowing, installation of profiled timber is preferable. The grooves and ridges in it will protect against drafts no less reliably than the seal. In addition, wood moisture content of no more than 20 percent is preferable: in this case, the walls are not at risk of deformation and cracks.

The ideal option is to install a house made of laminated veneer lumber. This will allow you to avoid a long break for the walls to shrink before finishing.

What material is used for dowels?

Galvanized steel rods. The zinc coating will protect the steel from rust; however, moisture will condense on the surface of the dowel in the thickness of the wood. When dismantling old log houses, builders often note that the wood of the log house rots around the steel dowels.

A healthier option is solid wood, without cross-layers and knots.. The thickness of the dowel is 25-30 millimeters; Birch is used more often than other species. Of course, antiseptic impregnation is highly desirable.

Angles

The connection of the crowns in the corners is much more vulnerable to shrinkage, displacement and deformation of the wood.

Two qualities are required from corners:

Strength. The crown should not separate or move even under moderate seismic activity.

Windproof, the notorious protection from drafts. Please note: installing a house from low-humidity profiled timber allows you to forget about this problem only on straight sections of walls. Vertical seams can still leak.

To ensure that you forget about the problem of drafts, the so-called connection “ warm corner"(otherwise - connection "to the root tenon"):

The end of one of the beams is processed in such a way that a tenon with a width of 1/4 to 1/2 the width of the material and the same length remains on it.

A slightly wider (about 1 mm) groove is selected for the tenon on the side surface of the adjacent beam. The gap is needed for sealing.

Of course, this is not the only type of corner joint; however, with low complexity, it provides sufficient compaction coupled with reliable fixation of the crown.

Important: the angle must be fixed with dowels, regardless of their location on straight sections of the walls.

Direct connections

If the length of the walls is greater than the length of the solid beam, we will have to connect it not only in the corners, but also on the straight section.

How to do it?

Most reliable option- this is the same connection “on the root tenon”. It is clear that in this case the groove is selected at the end of one of the connecting beams.

A half-tree connection is somewhat simpler. Since it should not be blown through, the joint is located vertically; in this case, the mutual displacement of the crown sections is prevented by the dowels.

In both options, the connections from crown to crown are made offset, so that the two joints are nowhere located directly above each other.

Floor

First, a subfloor is laid from boards 20-25 millimeters thick. It is supported by a mounting beam that we pre-filled onto the side surfaces of the beams.

The next stage is laying a vapor barrier. It will protect the subfloor boards from rotting, and at the same time prevent the insulation from crumbling between them.

The insulation itself is laid on the vapor barrier - 100 millimeters of mineral wool.

The wool is protected from above with waterproofing. A layer of polyethylene is quite suitable.

A tongue-and-groove board 36 millimeters thick is laid on top of the beams. Of course, nothing prevents you from replacing it with plywood or OSB; in this case, it will be necessary to lay lags across the beams in increments of no more than 40 cm.

Ceilings and partitions

The height of the first floor from the floor level can be up to 3.5 meters; Usually, however, builders limit themselves to a more modest height. It is clear that the higher the ceiling, the higher the price square meter. A reasonable minimum is 2.4 meters.

Ceiling beams are laid directly on the upper crown, which in our case performs the function of a mauerlat. They can be cut in with fixation with dowels or fastened with galvanized plates and self-tapping screws.

With a length of more than 6 meters, the beams rest on an internal partition, made in this case from timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. Let us remind you that it should rest not just on the floor beams, but on the piles, pillars or foundation strip located underneath them.

If frame partitions can be attached to external walls with screws, then the timber should be cut into them to a depth of about 5 cm.

If the project provides for gables made of timber, they are erected after laying the ceiling beams.

Roof

The material for creating the rafter system is timber with a cross-section of 50x100 millimeters. The pitch between the rafters is 0.7 - 1 meter. In general, the lower the roof slope, the smaller the pitch: in this option the snow load will increase.

The most popular installation of timber houses with two types of roofs:

Broken line. With her are the side walls of the second, attic floor can be made vertical.

Straight gable. The cross-section of the attic will be triangular, which will greatly limit its usable area.

Not used as roof sheathing edged board 40 mm thick. If ondulin or bituminous shingles are assumed to be the roofing material, a continuous panel is assembled; in this case, it is more advisable to use OSB or plywood. A layer of waterproofing film must be laid under the roof.

Insulation and finishing

The floor of the attic is covered with the already familiar tongue and groove board.

Roof insulation is a cake made from the insulation itself, vapor barrier and finishing material. Popular as the latter wooden lining and drywall.

The attic and first floor openings are cashed after the windows and doors are installed.

Varnishes or water-dispersion paints are used as a finishing coating. Enamels are undesirable because they deprive wood of one of its main advantages - vapor permeability.

Conclusion

Of course, our acquaintance with the construction procedure is somewhat superficial (see also article). Watch the video in this article, which shows the information discussed more clearly.

Good luck in construction!

The choice of material is the primary problem faced by anyone who decides to build a small, reliable and comfortable home on your site. Modern market building materials company can boast a huge range of raw materials for every taste and budget. Most people prefer wood. And it’s not surprising, because wooden beam– This is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is presented in several variations, but in this article we will talk about how to build a house with your own hands from profiled timber, since it is the most common and has the simplest installation technology. It is very malleable for processing, which means that you can install electrical wiring, plumbing and sewerage without much difficulty.

Drawing up a plan, preparing materials and tools

Without good project building a house is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take this stage extremely seriously, especially since this is where you can clearly understand where you can save money.

Ideally, you can turn to special design agencies for help. For a fee, they will individually draw up a complete layout of your future home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, soil composition, financial capabilities and, most importantly, personal preferences.

If you do not need any miracle of design thought, then you can build a building using standard options. For this purpose all necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or use one of several 3D editor programs, including FloorPlan3D, CyberMotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed specifically for the layout of houses made of timber. SEMA will help you carry out all the necessary statistical calculations, select the type of rafter system and much more.

The drawing should indicate everything, from the general dimensions of the building and the number of floors to the location of door and window openings, furniture, and all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan is in your hands, you can begin to calculate, if this has not already been done, and select the required materials and tools, including:

Timber as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut grooves and tenons - bring them, install them - use them; also, thanks to the perfectly flat and smooth surface of the edges, there is no need for additional finishing works, or you can buy wooden blanks, and make the cuts yourself, there is nothing complicated about it, and you can save a lot of money.

Experts recommend using timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm during construction. But since you have to work alone or with an unqualified assistant, it is better to use material with a cross-section of 150x100 mm. Such timber is much lighter, and the missing volume can be restored in the future by insulating the facade from the outside of the building.

Insulation.

To save additional money, you can use materials that are, so to speak, “at hand” as insulation. Moss is considered the best among these. It is not difficult to find and process, and its technical characteristics are identical to its artificial counterparts.

Nails, screws and other fastening structures ( metal corners, wooden dowels and so on).
Waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt).
Ready-made concrete solution or the components necessary for its preparation (water, sand, crushed stone, cement).
Reinforcement (if a strip foundation is planned).
Saw.
Jigsaw.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Construction rubber hammer.
Roulette.
Building level.
Plumb.
Circular Saw.
Pipes for water supply and sewerage.
Cable for electricity, TV.
Master OK.
Caulk.
Other tools for small and decorative work.

Harvesting wood and moss for construction

To build a warm and cozy house from timber, in addition to knowing the technology of laying crowns, it is important to understand which type of wood is best suited for this purpose.

Each species, naturally, has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing you need to pay attention to when choosing lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the wood is fragile, then your house may very soon simply fall apart; if the density is low, then such material can shrink by up to 20 percent, or even more. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, but if the raw materials are under-dried, then it will simply be impossible to work with them; if the raw materials are over-dried, the material will become too unreliable.

Very serious requirements are placed on the walls of the house, as they must provide warmth, comfort and low level noise in the premises, especially since wood is a rather fire-hazardous material that can be deformed due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing timber from coniferous species, such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Because of great content resinous substances, conifers are resistant to rotting, cracking and other deformations. Also, trees of this species are very durable, light, and therefore do not create too much load on the foundation.

By choosing softwood timber, you can save money by building a foundation using a simplified system.

If you decide to harvest the wood yourself, then you should know that the humidity coefficient should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will soon begin to appear in the walls, which will require additional processing, and this will waste effort, time and budget.

When preparing, keep in mind the fact that it is better to do this in winter period year (from January to March), since in winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk becomes minimal.

Cut the lumber to the desired shape and size, treat it with an antiseptic and leave it stored in a dry place out of reach of sunlight. The bars must be stored compactly in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap of 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. To do this, several transverse beams are inserted between them. After lying like this for 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

To keep your home warm in inclement weather, you should think about choosing interventional insulation. Professional builders use modern tape materials, but the price for such pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but only a few varieties are used for construction purposes, among them: sphagnum, cuckoo moss, red moss and peat moss. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the disadvantages is a high flammability, since after drying the moss becomes dry and brittle, for example, at high temperatures it can spontaneously ignite, to prevent this it is treated with special means.

Moss must be collected; it can be found in swampy areas - these are long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaves, dried and stored in a dry place for about two weeks. You can use plastic bags as bags, but then the moss will be a little damp. There's nothing wrong with that.

Foundation construction

A high-quality foundation is the key to a reliable, stable and durable home. Since it is he who is the main one load-bearing structure, which must withstand the total weight of the building, such high demands are placed on it.

When building a house from timber, three main types of foundations are used:

Pile-screw.
Gnezdovoy.
Tape.

The choice of foundation type depends mainly on the soil on which the house is planned to be built. This issue must be resolved at the planning stage. You should conduct a soil analysis, you can also ask your neighbors what foundation their houses are on, or look for information in documents about the purchase of a plot or other reference literature.

If the soil is heaving or watery, and also if you plan to use the house only seasonally, and not live there permanently, then use one of the first two options. If it includes large quantities sand or clay, then a strip foundation is suitable.

The first thing to start with is clearing the area of debris, thickets, bushes and other objects that may interfere. Immediately before digging it is necessary to mark. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along load-bearing walls, and the thread that is pulled between them - everything is simple. Subsequent actions depend on the selected type of foundation.

Pile-screw foundation

After the area is cleared and ready for further manipulations, we proceed to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles from a specialized store, since it is quite difficult to build such structures by hand. Choose supports of the same size and always have drills already welded at one end.

Thanks to the special design, the piles are easy to install yourself, while keeping an eye on the angle of inclination. A building magnetic level can help you with this. Also, if there was no cap on the screws, you will need to install it yourself. To do this, use a processed sheet of metal 25x25 cm and 5-6 mm thick.

Nest foundation

The nested foundation differs only in that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are used, into which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the territory has been marked, it is necessary to dig holes at selected points along the perimeter with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. A layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, moistened and compacted tightly. After this, support structures are inserted into them at right angles, and if necessary, a solution is poured inside and into the space around them at the bottom. The remaining gaps between the supports and the ground are filled with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.

There is also an option to install formwork in the dug holes and fill it with concrete mortar to ground level; we recommend using M400 cement in a ratio of 1:3 to sand. After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is removed and aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are laid on top.

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the vast majority of cases, for example, if you are planning to build a heavy two- or more-story house.

The first step is to dig a trench 10-15 centimeters wider than the thickness of the walls and 50-70 cm deep. It should be located at a height of at least a meter from the groundwater level.

There are several options for strip foundations, including:

Brick.
Concrete.
Stone.

For any of them it is necessary to prepare a foundation. A layer (10 cm) of sand is placed at the bottom of the trench, moistened with a small amount of water and compacted thoroughly; if necessary, sand can be poured in two layers. A layer (15-20 cm) of crushed stone is poured on top of it, broken bricks or small stones.

By the way, geotextiles can be pre-laid at the bottom of the trench, and along the outer edge you can install thermal insulation material– this will help prevent freezing of the shallow foundation.

If you plan to build a brick or stone base, a little before reaching the top of the foundation, you can install formwork on the resulting cushion. It is necessary to pour a layer of mortar inside to the level of the ground surface and compact it. To increase stability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already on top, after the solution has completely hardened, bricks or stones are laid, which can be ordered, or used independently found near any body of water. Another reinforcement belt is installed on top of the masonry and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and leveled.

If a concrete base is planned, then the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, thickness 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned to be made of wood, then the material should be free of cracks, chips, unevenness and other defects.

The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between the rows is 5-10 cm. The result should be a mesh with cells of 15-20 sq. cm. The rods are tied together with rigid wire, the whole structure is poured cement mortar, which can either be purchased or prepared personally. We recommend investing in a concrete mixer - this will save you time and nerves, since mixing cement by hand is quite long and difficult. The formwork must first be moistened with water or wrapped in a layer of plastic film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before the solution hardens. A vibrating hammer will help with this, or you can simply punch holes in several places; later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation is left to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which and several more days, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent cracking of the foundation. Don't forget to make holes for communication wiring.

Construction and insulation of walls and floors

The crowns of the first row are connected to each other traditionally, regardless of the method of connecting subsequent rows, “half-tree” is a fairly reliable and easy-to-make type of end notches, and they are not laid directly on the foundation, but on a lining of small slats located transversely to the beam itself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the slats can be filled with foam. To cut the end notch, you can use a hacksaw, and use a chisel to remove excess material.

So, if the slats rot, they will be easier to replace than a whole row of timber. The boards also need to be treated with an antiseptic or primer to prevent the development of fungus and various microorganisms, and laid out on a covered surface in two layers waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt, foundation.

The beam of the first row should have a little big sizes than the crowns of the remaining rows, for example, if a material with a section of 150x150 mm is used for the walls, then for the first row use the option with a section of 200x200 mm.

It will be possible to mount logs for the subfloor on the lining of the planks using steel angles and nails or screws. It is necessary to attach the so-called cranial beam to them, on which the edged board for the subfloor will be laid in the future. A layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the draft, and on top of it insulation boards, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam or any other modern analogue. The next layer is a vapor barrier, and after that is the finished floor.

All subsequent rows are laid identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

“With a remainder” is when a small part of the beam protrudes from its two ends.
"Without a trace."

The picture below shows different types end notches.

This manipulation can be done using circular saw or jigsaw. Options “A” and “D” (“without remainder”) are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult to install. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. Option “Z” is used to connect internal load-bearing walls. Also note that tongue-and-groove connections must leave a gap of half a centimeter for the insulation.

The rows are fastened together using wooden or metal dowels. We recommend using the latter, since during drying the lumber will not crack, which will ensure the durability of your building.

Using dowels for fastening, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill so that the beam of one row of dowels goes through, and the beam of the bottom row only partially, or you can use short dowels; for this, holes are cut out on two opposite sides, a dowel is driven into one with a hammer, and simply inserted into the next. Remember that the dowels should not be located on top of each other. To make the structure as stable as possible, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your house turn out to be longer than the timber, it’s not a problem. In this case, you need to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one beam, and at the end of the second a rectangular protrusion right in the center, so you get a tongue-and-groove joint.

The space between the crowns can be insulated using pre-collected and dried moss and tow. The tow is laid across the beams, and the moss is simply thrown on top. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will stick out - this is not a problem, since caulking work is planned in the future, and this, in turn, will provide maximum thermal insulation.

To ensure that the bars of one row are at the same height, we use a rubber hammer, tapping it along the walls after installing each beam. The plane is used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the unevenness of the bottom row it is impossible to install the timber of the top row.

*Important! Don't forget to alternate corner joints.

The last two rows of crowns are not fastened, since in the future, after shrinkage, the rafter system will be installed. To do this, you will have to temporarily dismantle these two rows.

To design door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all the rows, and then, after making a mark, cut out the necessary holes with a jigsaw, or use beams of such length in advance that they will subsequently form windows and doors. Remember that the size of the openings must exceed the size of the door or window itself, since it is still necessary to leave space for installing window and door frames. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm above the windows and doors. This is necessary so that in the future, when the timber shrinks, it does not damage the structure of the windows or doors. It will need to be filled with liquid insulation.

Roof roof

After the last row of crowns has been erected, the building must be covered with roofing felt or slate and allowed to settle. The shrinkage period takes up to 6 months on average, only after which you can proceed to installing the roof and facing work.

There are a huge number of variations of roofs. The hip or hip roof is considered the most reliable and stable; it is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to erect it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a gable roof. We will briefly describe the installation steps and the main elements.

First, you need to insulate the surface of the walls from moisture, using, for example, roofing felt. It must be laid in two layers. After attaching the Mauerlat - the base for the rafter system, in which special cutouts are made, with the help of which they are attached rafter legs. The top row of crowns, pre-treated with an antiseptic, will serve as the Mauerlat.

The rafters themselves, depending on the area of the house, should be made of timber with a section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200x50 mm. They should not protrude beyond the house by more than half a meter; if more, additional supports will be installed. A wooden sheathing of slats 5-6 cm thick and 10-20 cm wide is installed on the rafter legs in increments that depend on the roofing material (tiles - planks are laid end to end, if slate or corrugated sheeting - at a distance of 30 cm from each other). Sometimes they install a counter-lattice, on top of which they mount it themselves. roofing material. Insulation, vapor and waterproofing are laid in the resulting space between the two sheathings.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling joists, which are attached using the tongue-and-groove method to the top row of timber. The remaining manipulations are identical to the floor. You can additionally lay insulation and insulation between the finished and rough ceilings. In the future, this can reduce heat loss by up to 30%.

In order for the roof to be stable, strong, withstand strong winds and last for many years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as crossbars, struts, tie rods, racks and others. All of them are attached using hardware, such as steel angles and self-tapping screws.

Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, an opening for the chimney and the attic, if one is planned. The roof fronts can be covered with clapboard or decorative block house.

Remember! Any roof will require repairs over time. Therefore, in order to reduce financial costs, experts recommend checking the coating annually for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (crossbars, racks, etc.), and the leak is eliminated by replacing rotten roofing material.

Let's summarize

The last stage construction work is the installation of input and interior doors, windows. If necessary, insulation work is carried out and decorative finishing walls either inside or outside the house. They provide electricity, water, heat, and connect the sewerage system.

Now that you know the main stages of building a house from timber on your own, as well as ways to save money, you can begin building a warm, cozy and reliable home that will warm and delight you for many years.

Houses made of profiled timber are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. Much time has passed, but the benefits wooden houses only adding up. Nowadays, such houses are built quite quickly, because they are assembled like a children's construction set. This is also facilitated by the presence of special fasteners and the availability of materials. In this article we will look at how you can build a house from profiled timber yourself.

Features of profiled timber

Profiled timber is building material, which is extracted from coniferous trees, for example, pine, cedar, spruce, larch. If you look closely at the material, you will notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the outer side has the shape of a semi-oval, or it can also be smooth. There are special grooves and tenons on the sides that allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber together. The main advantage of profiled timber is considered to be environmentally friendly, since it is made without the use of glue.

The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments captivate many people. As mentioned above, profiled timber is quite easy and quick to assemble, which is good news for amateurs self-construction. But do not forget that profiled timber is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may appear there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.

Profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and not delay its repair. If your home will be periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.

Start of construction of a timber house

It is very important to design a house made from profiled timber. When you draw up a plan, make all the calculations carefully and accurately, since this will be very important important role in the purchase of materials. You can draw a design for your future home yourself, or you can contact construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that best time for construction - winter.

If you plan to harvest wood yourself, it is better to do this in the cold season and dry it for a long time at home. In this case, the timber will shrink evenly and calmly. But you shouldn’t go to extremes - in severe frosts it’s better to refuse similar work, as the wood can become very brittle.

When preparing material yourself, you must take into account all the factors and choose healthy tree no cracks. After this, you need to cut the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase ready-made material that will be cut to suit your needs. Also, grooves will be cut there, and you will just have to lay out the house from profiled timber with your own hands, like a designer.

Building a foundation for a house

Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you should find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, and look at the foundation structures of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or cinder blocks. The process of constructing such foundations is quite simple, but is characterized by high material consumption and labor intensity.

For wooden buildings made of timber, a columnar, pile or shallow strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallowly buried strip foundation. It all starts with the markup. It is very important to be precise in this process. Mark the outer and inner corners of the building with pegs. After this, you need to combine them with cording to add volume. This way you will understand what the foundation should look like.

After this, you can begin to dig a hole, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it’s also not worth making the depth too small, because we are building a house from profiled timber and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with our rash actions. Two bayonets of a shovel will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial markings by more than 20 centimeters. After this, you need to put a crushed stone cushion. As part of this procedure, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.

You can make the formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formwork is made from wood that has no cracks or seams. When ordering, it is better to choose steel or plastic formwork. You must install the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase strength, it makes sense to use reinforcement - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement must be at least 1 centimeter.

It is advisable to use a frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they should not be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The rods should fit freely into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After this, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin pouring concrete. If you are using wood formwork, wet it down a bit to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after the solution has dried.

For insulation, you can use 5-centimeter extruded polystyrene foam slabs, and 8-centimeter slabs at the corners of the foundation. When the sides of the foundation of a house made of profiled timber are tarred, crushed stone is poured in place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be insulated using roofing felt. Then it is necessary to carry out backfilling, for which you can use previously removed soil.

Installation of base and floor

The construction of any house begins with the creation of a row, which is laid on a treated and leveled waterproofing foundation. It is worth noting that for external walls it is necessary to use timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for the floor and internal walls - 100 by 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be treated with an antiseptic for good strengthening. After this, it is necessary to install floor joists, which should preferably be laid on edge.

The logs can be installed on the foundation of the house and attached to the walls of the log house, as shown in the video about houses made of profiled timber. They must be placed indoors and left there for several days to get used to the temperature. Two logs should be placed on opposite walls and nylon threads should be stretched between them, every one and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guide for making the rest of the logs. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

If you lay logs from boards 30 - 40 centimeters thick, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. Using wedges made of thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the joists. You can strengthen the wedges using self-tapping screws or long nails. The logs are secured with anchors or dowels. After this, you can proceed to installing and strengthening the boards.

You should retreat one and a half centimeters from the wall and strengthen the first row of boards along a stretched line. Holes should be drilled for self-tapping screws. It is necessary to lay a board on each joist and strengthen it. If there are gaps between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinths or staples, which should be connected to the board and secured with nails. The subfloor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. Boards with a cross section of 25 by 150 millimeters are suitable for it.

The floor can be laid with or without displacement, judging by the photos of houses made of profiled timber. First you must lay the first layer and lay it on top wooden flooring. Remember about the waterproofing that is placed on the sub-base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. At the last stage, you should lay the floor from any material. A tongue and groove board 28 or 36 millimeters thick is perfect for this.

Construction of walls from profiled timber

To build walls timber house, it is necessary to lay out alternate rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together using dowels (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the timber to move or twist. Pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same wood from which the house is built. It is known that metal dowels are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden dowels, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber will increase in this case.

How are dowels installed? This happens using the bricklaying method, through two or three rows after one. To do this, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 3 - 4 centimeters. The dowels will be easily inserted into these holes. The distance between the dowels should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay a sealant for insulation. Where external walls are connected, it is advisable to use the “warm corner” method.

A protrusion should be cut out in one beam required size, and in the other - cut out a groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and tenons. This will greatly strengthen the structure, and the corners will not be blown out. If you are building a house with one and a half floors, the walls of the second floor need to be raised by approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, this depends on the steepness. Partitions must fit into the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use timber with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. The installation of partitions is done only after the construction of the log house.

If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled timber, the internal walls can be framed. To do this, you need to create a frame from bars with a section of 50 by 50, cover it with clapboard or other material. In order for a wooden house to be fire resistant, all its parts must be treated with a fire retardant. You can apply it to the walls using a spray bottle or a paint brush.

And the last point that is worth understanding when building walls: pay due attention to the creation of window openings. In the places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut out technological openings through which air will move while the material dries. When the house is finally settled, the windows can be installed. Window blocks for a structure made of profiled timber, they can be metal-plastic or wooden.

Insulation and finishing of the house

If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce heating costs. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. Exterior decoration of the house significantly increases thermal insulation, due to the reduction in timber moisture. It isolates it from various atmospheric precipitations. Most popular types finishing is lining and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.

You can use mineral wool, glass wool slabs, tow or flax-jute fabric. Glass wool slabs must be laid with foil vapor barrier material. This approach will help reflect heat into the room, and the vapor insulation will reduce moisture evaporation, which is known to steal heat.

It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses made of profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the moisture of the wood to evaporate completely and will cause rotting of the wood. For the same reasons, you should not insulate walls with roofing felt, plastic film or glassine. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

It is also advisable to trim the inside with profiled timber, as this will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be made of lining, hardboard or plasterboard. Remember that the insulation should resemble a layer cake. Each layer must protect against heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you plan to spend time in the house only in the summer, you don’t have to insulate it.

Roof for a house made of profiled timber

To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated sheets, roofing felt, and metal tiles. Remember that insulation should begin from the top or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and sheathing. When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be placed that should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. The logs are made of timber with a section of 150 by 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

After this, you should assemble a rafter system from boards with a section of 50 by 150 millimeters. This structure is the skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with racks, crossbars and braces. Rafters should be installed in increments of no more than one centimeter. When the frame is ready, you can begin laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a sheathing with a cross-section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed onto the rafters.

It is worth noting that the sheathing pitch should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent the accumulation of condensation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier using a layer of waterproofing. If you used slate as a roof covering, and the attic is ventilated, you can avoid waterproofing during the construction of a house made of profiled timber.

When choosing a coating material, you must pay attention to the manufacturer’s advice, since they can differ significantly for different types of coatings. When installing, it is very important to follow the specified fastening techniques. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof may be compromised. If you strictly follow the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.

Building a house from timber is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. You don’t need any special skills to do this, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this job. Assembling the house will turn out to be like the construction set you played with as a child. For this purpose, special fastening elements are provided along the edges of the material. Will need more solid foundation And reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from profiled timber!