Is it possible to clapboard the outside of a house? How to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards: consistent technology of work

Building a house is a multi-step process, each of which is extremely important, including the exterior finishing. It not only insulates the house, but also gives it its own original look which will long years business card your family nest. Cladding the outside of a house with clapboard attracts many homeowners with a number of advantages. The most important thing, perhaps, is the appearance. No matter how far we have separated from our roots, no matter how progress has developed in construction and in the creation of various new materials, wood will always take its place in the heart of the Russian person. Therefore, many homeowners want to sheathe their house with clapboards, since such sheathing will not only give it charm and attractiveness, but can also be easily installed by non-specialists at minimal cost.

Cladding the outside of a house with clapboards can make the appearance of the house more attractive.

Despite the fact that wood is considered a short-lived material, in fact this has not been the case for a long time. Any wood can be impregnated with various modern compounds that will prevent its destruction under the influence of fungi, bacteria, insects and other natural factors. Wood has excellent thermal insulation properties. In addition, wood also perfectly absorbs sound and is suitable for houses located near highways and other sources of noise.

Selecting tools and material for sheathing

To cover a house with clapboard, you will need the following tools: saw, electric drill, screwdriver (if you are fastening with self-tapping screws), hammer, marker, level, pliers.

Any important work must be broken down into several steps. The main steps in installing clapboard sheathing:

selection of tools and materials;
preparation of walls and fastening of sheathing;
heat and waterproofing (if necessary);
fastening lining boards.

Before work you need to prepare a number of tools and materials:

high-quality wooden beam with a cross-section of 30x60 mm or more;
saw;
electric drill;
screwdriver (if you use self-tapping screws);
hammer;
marker;
level;
pliers.

But the main material that needs to be chosen correctly is the cladding material itself. Decorating a house with clapboard begins with its selection. All lining is divided into classes that determine its external and working qualities. The higher the class of the material, the fewer knots it contains and the better its surface is finished. As for the other qualities, due to the fact that all types of lining undergo approximately the same drying and other processing, the class of the material plays almost no role here. The class primarily determines the type of wood and the number of defects.

The classes of lining determine its external and working qualities.

The most important requirement for lining is the quality of its drying, since only well-dried wood will not undergo deformation over time. Raw wood will definitely begin to change its size, and soon the entire surface of the cladding will present a deplorable sight in the form of numerous cracks and crevices. Removing deformed elements and reinstalling others in their place will take a lot of time. The humidity standard for lining used for external cladding, is 12%.

Recently, in addition to dividing by class, lining is divided into regular and eurolining. The difference is that the humidity of the latter is much lower than usual, and the surface is processed so carefully that it represents ideal geometric figures with convenient cutouts and grooves. Of course, such material will cost more than usual, but in this case it is worth considering that repairs for eurolining will be needed much later than for conventional material.

Preparing walls and installing sheathing

Before installing lathing on the walls, it is necessary to prepare the walls of the house for installation. To do this, the walls are cleaned of all irregularities, the cracks are sealed, all debris is removed, and if the house is wooden, then all rotten and deformed structural elements are removed. The wall should be as smooth as possible, clean and without the slightest trace of rot or mold.

The next step is to mark the walls along the lines of which the sheathing frame will be attached. It is necessary to approach this work carefully, since an uneven surface of the frame will lead, in the future, to a lot of problems with the cladding.

Since in the vast majority of cases the lining is located horizontally, the beams must be installed vertically. The same high quality requirements are imposed on beams as on lining. It must be well dried and have no significant flaws. The beams are fastened at a distance of about one meter, less is possible (up to half a meter), but more is not recommended, since timber of any drying quality still slightly deforms over time, and the longer it is, the higher the danger that this deformation will affect the cladding , the boards can simply jump out of the fastenings. Using a level, carefully check the evenness of the surface of the resulting frame.

If you decide to insulate the house, then it is at this stage that the thermal insulation between the beams is installed and secured. Different materials are suitable for this. This could be mineral wool, polystyrene, or other modern insulating building materials. The choice is yours. But we still advise you not to save at this stage, since thermal protection can not only create a comfortable home for you, but also save considerable money on heating.

Installation of lining from lining

Fastening lining boards can be of two types: using simple nails and kleimers. The option of nailing lining boards directly to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws also has a right to exist, especially in this case the fastening is as strong as possible, but still, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not the best design solution.

Schemes for fastening lining strips.

If you decide to fasten the boards with nails or self-tapping screws, then to do this they are driven into its ridge, as shown in the figure. In this case, the first board is attached to the beam, and the next one is inserted with its lower end into the groove of the previous one and through its ridge. Installation begins from the bottom, from the base to the roof.

The second common method of fastening is installation using clamps. This small fastener is made of tin or stainless steel and secures the boards in a hidden way, even over time, when the nails begin to show their heads, the clamps continue to perform their service completely invisibly. As shown in the figure, the clamp is attached to nail on the wall, and its groove securely holds the board. At the same time, the boards themselves remain completely intact and can even be reused after dismantling the sheathing.

Installation should begin from the bottom, carefully making sure that the installation is level using a level. The first board is fastened with the tenon facing up, onto which the next board is placed. The choice of fastening the boards is yours, but the best option would be to use clamps. The boards must fit into the grooves accurately and tightly.

If the length of the facade is longer than that of the boards, then you will have to choose a method for installing and joining the boards together. It is better if the joints form a “herringbone” pattern, when they do not run strictly vertically, but in a checkerboard pattern. If the joints are vertical, then they can be covered later using special decorative strips.

Having read the information on how to sheathe a house, you can easily do it yourself; there are no particular difficulties in this.

Finally, remember a couple more tips.

Before starting work, leave all the wood for a day in the place where the installation will take place so that the wood gets used to the existing temperature and humidity.

We also recommend installing vapor and waterproofing between the insulation and the sheathing material. This will be a good barrier to moisture and protect the wood from rotting. And remember that the film is placed with its smooth side against the insulation, and its rough side against the sheathing.

If you decide to improve the appearance of your home, then clapboard cladding on the outside of the house is a good choice. Such external decoration will not only make the walls of the house more beautiful, but will also improve their heat and sound insulation properties.

You will learn about how to choose a material and how to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards from this article.

Types of lining

It is divided into 2 main types: plastic and wood. Each has its own characteristics.

Speaking about plastic exterior lining, it is necessary to highlight the following features:

durability(not subject to rotting);
unpretentiousness(does not require complex care);
excellent water-repellent properties(outer plastic lining is not exposed to a humid environment).

Their distinctive features has a classic wooden lining:

presentable appearance;
soundproofing properties;
low thermal conductivity.

Wooden lining for exterior finishing is also divided into regular and . This is due to different standards in the production of these boards.

In our country they are produced according to GOST 8242-88, abroad according to DIN 68126. Imported timber differs from Russian wood in grade and external parameters. And also with more thoughtful geometry, more high quality manufacturing. Because of this, its price is much higher.

How to choose a lining

Choosing this building material you need to adhere to the following simple rules:

The moisture content of the wood should not be more than 10-15%, otherwise, over time it will dry out, which will lead to an increase in the gaps between the boards.
You need to choose boards without fungal infections and without wormholes.
Give preference to material with minimum quantity knots.

Advice!
Use softwood wood. Material made from deciduous trees (except aspen) is not suitable for cladding the outside of a house with clapboards.

Stages of work

Installation of vapor barrier;
Frame installation;
Placement of thermal insulation;
Fastening waterproofing;
Installation of the second frame;
Outdoor

Installation of vapor barrier

Can be used as a vapor barrier polyethylene film, aluminum foil or even roofing felt. Its task is to ventilate the facade of the house under the film. To do this, wooden narrow slats 2.5 cm wide are vertically attached to the wall at a distance of one meter from each other.

A vapor barrier layer is nailed to the fixed slats. Then, at the top, as well as at the bottom, holes with a cross-section of 20 mm must be made between the slats to ensure ventilation.

Frame installation

Next, we make a frame with our own hands from boards with a thickness of 40 mm to 50 mm and a width of 10 cm. To do this, we attach them to the wall of the house vertically on their sides. We set the distance between the boards 1-2 cm less than the width of our insulation (mineral wool sheets).

Placement of thermal insulation

The next step required for finishing the house with clapboard outside is the placement of thermal insulation.

Mineral wool slabs must be installed so that they do not have gaps between them.
To do this, we lay 2 layers of mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm each.
We place the slabs so that the junction of the two slabs of the lower layer is covered by the middle of the slab of the upper layer. Since the slabs are quite elastic, they will be held between the boards without additional fastening (see photo).

Securing waterproofing

A waterproofing film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer. It allows steam to pass through but retains water.
Having laid the film, we fasten it with staples to the frame boards.
To achieve the best effect, you need to leave an overlap of about 5-10 cm and glue it with tape.

Advice!
To achieve the desired effect, the waterproofing film must be laid with the rough side facing the lining and the smooth side facing the insulation.

Installation of the second frame

The next stage of work, as our instructions say, is the installation of the second frame.

To do this, we nail slats with a thickness of about 2-3 cm and a width of 0.5 mm onto the boards forming the first frame, on top of the waterproofing layer. This is necessary for ventilation and removal of moisture formed in the form of condensation on the waterproofing film.
The space formed below must be covered with a metal mesh to prevent rodents and insects from entering there.

Cladding on the outside

So, the final stage remains - the outer cladding of the walls with clapboard.

To do this, we cut the boards to the required length and start paneling from the bottom. We place the first (starting board) with the tenon down and the groove up. We check its horizontality using a level.
If everything is normal there, we secure it with nails or special clamps. If deviations from horizontal axis, then first we level our workpiece, and then we fasten it.
We insert the next board from above into the groove of the previous one. Hit the top with a mallet (wooden hammer). This is necessary so that the tenon of the upper board fits tightly into the groove of the lower one.
After that we secure it. We insert all the other boards in the same way.

When the lining is installed on the outside, it is necessary to secure the boards in the corners of the house. We fix them vertically, and one should overlap the other, forming an overlap.

It is also necessary to make platbands for windows. The pediment can be sheathed horizontally, securing the boards in the same way. After the main part of the work is completed, you need to start painting.

The surface of the boards can be painted or coated with a special liquid. Special impregnation for exterior lining will preserve the natural color of the wood, while protecting it from negative external influences.

If you still decide to paint, we recommend that you adhere to the following tips:

Before painting, treat the entire surface to be painted. grinder, with fixed in it sandpaper(with grain 40, 25, 80, 120).
If you plan to paint, then first apply 2 layers of drying oil. After it has completely dried, start painting.

As you can see, covering the outside of a house with clapboard is not that difficult, although this process requires a lot of time and effort. If you are interested in this type of finishing, by the way, plastic exterior lining will look especially good, get started. And if you want to learn more, we recommend watching a variety of videos on our website on this topic.

Wooden lining (eurolining), which has been replaced by siding and plastic panels, is gradually regaining its position. More and more users prefer this beautiful, natural and time-tested material.

Naturally, many construction teams offer installation services for wooden lining (euro lining). But not everyone has the money to pay for outside work or simply want, if not to build a house, then at least to do external or interior lining walls on your own. Therefore, below is material aimed at those who are interested in self-installation clapboards made of wood.

How to cover a house with clapboards with your own hands

At first glance, it may seem that finishing walls and ceilings with clapboard is a simple and not time-consuming process. Paradoxical as it may seem, this is how it is. The work will require minimal skills in working with tools, wood and step-by-step instruction for the installation of wooden lining.

Step 1 – Choosing wooden lining

To choose the right wooden lining for wall decoration, you need to take into account the influence of such factors:

Purpose of the premises. Depending on the purpose of the room, the requirements for the lining will differ.

for a sauna you need elite-class eurolining, preferably coniferous;

Any lining is suitable for exterior finishing, the main thing is to ensure that it is properly protected from all possible damage;

for interior spaces, the main requirement is environmental friendliness of the material.

Methods of fastening wooden lining. They will have a key influence on the calculation of materials for installation. There are several ways:

Vertical clapboard paneling. The most common method. Two factors contributed to this. Firstly, the vertical fastening reliably protects the groove-ridge from water flowing in. Secondly, it allows you to visually raise the height of the ceilings of the room.

Note: vertical installation of the lining is most optimal for a steam room, as it allows condensate to flow down.

Sheathing with clapboard horizontally. The easiest way. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide possible flaws on the surface of the walls. Horizontal mount It is more often used for exterior finishing, and the installation of the lining is carried out with the groove down to avoid water flowing in.

Trimmed with clapboard diagonally. A very wasteful method in terms of material consumption. But it is beneficial when decorating broken surfaces, for example, attic walls.

Herringbone clapboard paneling. Quite labor-intensive, requiring serious calculations, but at the same time the most economical way installation of lining, allowing the use of small pieces of lining;

Combined laying of lining. Allows you to create geometric patterns from planks of different lengths, mounted at different angles. However, such fastening requires certain skills and is characterized by a high consumption of material in the form of scraps. And also complex from the point of view of the frame structure.

Note. Not all lining profiles allow you to choose the installation method. For example, a block house or an American one is mounted only horizontally. Therefore, when choosing a installation method, take into account the configuration of the lamella.

You can also combine horizontal and vertical wall cladding with clapboard.

Wood type. For the manufacture of lining, both coniferous and deciduous wood are used. The choice depends on the purpose of the room, for example, coniferous species are more resistant to moisture, and deciduous species are more durable. And also on the cost of the material, the desired color and texture.

Type of wooden lining. The type of lining can be determined “by eye” knowing the main parameters that determine it. These include: the presence of knots, wormholes, chips, darkening, etc. The highest quality is the “extra” or “elite” variety, which is reflected in its cost. Next come varieties 1 (A), 2 (B), 3 (AB).

Note. The presence of knots, especially dead ones (capable of falling out), in addition to the visual effect, reduces the ability of wood to retain heat.

Lining dimensions. Due to the fact that the cost of lining is usually indicated per square meter, its dimensions will be important.

thickness of the lining. For external work you need to take a thicker board (20-25 mm), for internal work 10-16 mm will be enough;

width of the lining. Doesn't have a decisive meaning. But users note that for small room You should choose a narrow board. Conversely, a narrow board on a large surface will “ripple” in the eyes;

length of the lining. Maximum length paleney – 6,000 mm. You need to choose a length that will have the least amount of joints and waste. In addition, it is worth considering the problem of large-sized transportation.

Lining type(determined by the appearance of the lamella):

ordinary lining (classic, calm, standard). It does not have primary processing and has a short comb (up to 5 mm), which can create difficulties for beginners when installing it themselves;

eurolining. Has more precise geometric parameters due to strict requirements for production, packaging and storage. Features an elongated comb (up to 8 mm);

block house. Imitates rounded timber, more common in exterior decoration;

American. The difference between this lining is the absence of a tongue-and-groove system. It can only be mounted horizontally.

Step 2 - Calculation of wooden lining

When purchasing lining, you need to know how much material is required. The price of wooden lining is usually indicated in m2, less often in m3. But a simple mathematical calculation is not suitable in this case. Because the square footage will be influenced by the length of the lining, the height of the walls of the house, the number and sizes of window/ doorways. And the thickness of the lamella also affects the cubic capacity.

There are three ways to calculate lining:

Intuitive. The perimeter of the surface area that is to be finished with clapboard is considered. The area of the openings is subtracted from it. And to the result obtained, 10 to 30% is added for waste. A simple but not very accurate method. It is clearly not suitable for those who want to save money.

Mathematical. It is more scrupulous and involves calculating the number of lining lamellas individually. Those. takes into account the length and width of the lamella, as well as the parameters of the openings. To calculate, you need to divide the length of the surface by the width of the lamella. Thus, you can determine the number of lamellas and take into account their length. As a result of calculations we get exact value. In this case, no more than 10% is left for waste.

Program. in online mode.

Advice: at the point of sale, you need to select the length of the lining closest to the desired one in order to reduce waste on scraps.

The percentage of waste is determined by two parameters:

Firstly, the type of lining. The lower the grade, the greater the waste allowance.
Secondly, the geometry of laying the lamellas (method of fastening).

Step 3 - Tools and material

In addition to the lining itself, for work you will need:

wooden lath (45x20 mm) or galvanized profile for plasterboard;
thermal insulation material, vapor barrier, wind barrier (if necessary);
dowel (for a stone structure), screws (for a wooden base);
nails, clamps, staples (depending on the method of fastening);
jigsaw or hacksaw;
screwdriver, hammer, stapler (depending on the method of fastening);
level, plumb line, triangle;
antiseptic, fire retardant, primer, paint or varnish;
perforator;
drill.

Step 4 - Preparing the lining for installation

Primary preparation comes down to performing work in two directions:

Primary processing of the lining includes sanding (for a regular board), sorting the lamellas by color, and checking for defects. As well as treatment with a primer, an antiseptic (protects against rotting, biological activity) and a fire retardant (creates a microfilm on the surface of the wood that prevents combustion). If the lining of coniferous wood is very tarry, it is necessary to de-resin it.

How to remove resin from lining?

To remove resinous secretions, you need to apply an acetone solution to the lamella and then wipe the surface. If there are defects, fallen knots, potholes, cracks, you need to treat the lamella with putty.

Preparatory work is carried out before the installation of the lining begins, because it is necessary to treat all surfaces of the lamellas, including those that will be located on the reverse side. As well as grooves and ridges, access to which will simply be impossible after installation.

Note: the lining must “gain” the temperature of the room where finishing will be carried out. To do this, it must be placed in the room in advance. This rule does not apply to lining for external work.

Surface treatment means inspecting the wall/ceiling for cracks, fungus, other damage, removing all defects, as well as dismantling sockets and switches. The wall surface should be treated with protective compounds.

Step 5 - Cladding

5.1 Installation of sheathing under the lining

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the frame belt.

Notes At vertical installation clapboards and lathing slats are packed horizontally. For horizontal installation – vertically. When diagonal - perpendicular to the direction of laying the lamellas.

How to properly make sheathing for lining?

The first slats are installed around the perimeter of the surface. First, slats are installed at the corners of the building, so that there are two slats for each corner. We check the correct installation with a plumb line or level. Then along the perimeter of the window and door openings, and only after that the intermediate slats are filled.

The pitch of the sheathing under the lining is determined by the thickness of the insulation (if it is planned to be installed) or is selected in any order. Professionals recommend installing intermediate slats at a distance of 400 to 800 mm. Moreover, the higher the room, the smaller the sheathing pitch should be.

Wooden lining can also be installed on rounded surfaces.

The slats are attached to the surface using hardware or EC brackets for profiles for plasterboard. If the wall is absolutely flat, you can attach it directly to it, i.e. without sheathing. And if in some places there is a gap between the wall and the slats, it can be filled with a piece of wooden beam to make the slats fit more tightly to the wall.

Note. Wooden laths for sheathing must have an acceptable moisture level. Otherwise, the lining will attract moisture and may become deformed.

It is important to ensure ventilation of the surface under the lining. To do this, the slats are packed with small gaps, as shown in the figure.

The most important thing in installing lathing is constant monitoring of the installation using building level. The more accurately the lathing is set, the easier and smoother the installation of the lining will be.

In addition, experts advise leaving a small gap at the top and bottom between the end of the slats and the ceiling, so that it is convenient to nail the lining. The gap from below (from the floor) can be easily ensured by installing a piece of wood under the rail.

Note. For wooden houses, a gap of 2-2.5 cm is mandatory. This is due to the fact that wood shrinks within 3-10 years, depending on the method of construction.

5.2 Insulating the wall under the lining

Finishing the walls with clapboard allows you to lay insulation (hard or soft) into the cells of the sheathing. The insulation is placed in the cells of the sheathing. When laying thermal insulation material, you need to ensure that there are no gaps between the mats. To do this, it is better to lay two thin layers of material offset rather than one thick one. A vapor barrier film (when installed inside the house) or a wind barrier (when installed outside the house) is placed on top of it.

The use of a superdiffusion membrane of the Tyvek type will be universal. When laying, it is important to ensure a film overlap of 100 mm, and also to lay it right side. The side with the markings (rough) should face the lining. Counter rails are placed on top of the film, onto which the lining will actually be attached.

Advice. It is advisable to carry out insulation from the outside of the house. This will shift the freezing point into the insulation. And it will eliminate the possibility of the wall freezing.

5.3 Fastening the lining

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, you need to decide on the method of fastening. Let's consider all the known methods of attaching lining to the wall, ceiling and sheathing in order to choose the most suitable option. It is worth noting that finishing a bathhouse with clapboard will be somewhat different from finishing the clapboard inside or outside the house.

How to attach the lining?

Fastening the lining with nails

The nail securely fixes the lining to the sheathing beam. As you can see in the photo, the nail is driven into the groove.

How to properly hammer nails into lining?

Eurolining can be nailed straight, but domestic (ordinary) lining can only be nailed at an angle. Working with nails is riskier than other methods because you can split the wood. For front fastening of the lining, it is better to use galvanized screw nails.

Note. The length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella.

Advice. You can make driving a nail into a groove easier by using a simple tool. Namely, you need to saw off the sharp edge from the nail (weave). Next, place it on the nail being driven in and apply force through it. Thus, the risk of damage to the front part of the lamella is significantly reduced.

The process of fastening the lining with nails is shown in the diagram

Fastening the lining with clamps

Note: installation of lining on walls in a bathhouse requires the use of copper or galvanized clamps.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

The method is used for through fastening of lamellas to the sheathing. Less often with secret.

Fastening the lining with brackets

Installing wooden lining on staples using a stapler is extremely rare. Due to the fact that you need a special stapler (gun), which can pierce fairly thick and dense wood. Some users recommend driving the staple into the clamp. Professionals disagree about the validity of this recommendation.

Combined method

This fastening of the lining allows you to secure the panels securely. The method involves the use of nails or clamps and self-tapping screws to fix the lining at the top and bottom, i.e. where the attachment point will be covered with decorative elements.

Which method of fastening the lining is better?

Knowing how to fasten wooden lining, you can choose the most effective method. In this case, the final choice may be influenced by:

plans for further dismantling of the lining. Fastening using clamps simplifies dismantling;

humidity level in the room. At high constant humidity levels, it is better to use self-tapping screws;

aesthetic appearance. Hidden installation involves the use of clamps or nails and allows you to completely hide the fasteners, and the mounted lining looks more beautiful. Outdoor installation lining provides for fastening through the board. In this case, it is important that the screws go in one line;

type of lining. Eurolining can be fastened in any way; conventional lining is more difficult to fasten with nails due to the small size of the groove;

the lining, which is re-attached (previously dismantled, used), is fastened with nails. This is due to the fact that during dismantling the grooves may be damaged;

fastening speed and lining thickness. Fastening the lining with a stapler allows you to carry out the work as quickly as possible, however, the possibility of its use is affected by the thickness of the lining and the type of wood;

installation method - hidden or through. For through installation, you need to drill a hole halfway through the screw, and then tighten it until it stops. Again, through installation eliminates the use of rough nails (only finishing nails), because Unsightly streaks of rust may form on the wall.

Installation of lining on walls begins from the corner of the room if the mount is horizontal, and from the top (if vertical). Particular attention is paid to the installation of the first lamella. After all, she will set the direction for all work. The first board is attached on one side (top or side), then the horizontal (vertical) is installed, then the second end is attached. Only after making sure that the board is correctly aligned and level can you secure it in the middle.

In order for the next board to fit tightly into the previous one, you need to make an effort. To do this, you can use a rubber mallet or tamper. The padding is a piece of wooden lining. Its use allows you to protect the front part of the lamella from accidental blows with a hammer.

Note. In case of using nails. They are completely hammered into the previous lamella only after the next lamella has been “baited”. This is done in order to avoid skewing the board.

It rarely happens that the lamellas cover the surface perfectly. Frequently requires pruning finishing boards. Pruning must be done carefully, especially if it will not be covered with decorative elements. The last board is fastened through the end-to-end method using self-tapping screws, which can then be covered with putty, a wooden plug or special overlays. Or using finishing nails that have virtually no heads.

Another point that you may encounter during finishing is the discrepancy between the length of the lining and the height/length of the room. In this case, it all depends on the preferences of the owners, but it is preferable that the ends of the lamella fragments be at different levels.

5.5 Decorative design of lining

Cladding with clapboards outside and inside the house ends with decoration. Decorative elements will allow you to cover up flaws in the work and give the walls and ceiling a finished look.

But in order for the finishing not to spoil the work, you need to know how to install decorative elements and how to attach them correctly.

External or internal corner closed with a wooden corner. It can be glued (if the weight of the decorative element is insignificant) or secured with finishing nails.

Window and door openings should be finished with platbands. They can be joined at an angle of 90 or 45°.

The junction of the wall with the ceiling or floor must be finished with a cornice or plinth and also secured with hardware.

Reinstall the switches and sockets removed before starting work.

It is worth noting that finishing with clapboard does not end with the above stages. Next, the surface needs:

clean from dust, apply an additional layer of primer to the lining (the first layer was primed on individual lamellas before starting work);

sanding (go over the lining again with fine sandpaper). The fact is that after priming the surface will acquire a slightly rough texture;

varnishing or painting. Finishing quite a long and responsible stage. It is important to choose the right coating and apply it correctly. For example, professionals advise applying the coating in several layers and only after the previous layer has completely dried. A detailed description of how and how to cover the lining.

recycling of lining waste. Users advise using scraps of lamellas to make frames, curtain rods, furniture cladding, tabletops, etc.

Do-it-yourself clapboard paneling - video guide

Conclusion

The technology for finishing walls with clapboard inside and outside the house, and in the bathhouse (steam room, shower) is different, this should be taken into account during installation. The choice of fastening and installation method also makes certain adjustments. Good fasteners and wood processing will extend the life of the cladding.

If the environmental purity of the material is more attractive to Europeans, then we prefer the gentle forest smell of wood - and the lining is made mainly from coniferous trees. And the appearance of your home will delight the whole family for many years, even if the cladding requires maintenance.

Having considered all the pros and cons, many owners decide to take on the process themselves. And indeed, everything is not as scary and inaccessible as it sometimes seems from the outside!

How to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards: detailed instructions with a list of all intermediate stages in front of you.

Buying lining

First, decide what end result you want to see. Like any lumber, lining has its own quality classes. And if you are going not to paint it, but to open it with varnish, take a more expensive paneling: it does not have holes from fallen knots, and it is sold already sanded. Otherwise, attention is drawn to the following:

degree of humidity. It should fluctuate between 6-15%. A “wetter” one will swell and become deformed; an excessively dry one will last you much less than you expect;
there should be no blue, deathly pale or black spots on the surface of the boards: they say that the material is affected by fungus;
individual elements must be extremely even. Firstly, the ease of installation and the absence of cracks depends on this, and secondly, the curvature indicates improper storage, and therefore a deterioration in the quality of the lumber.

Before sheathing

Until the coming installation work some more manipulations need to be done. Whether to sheathe walls with insulation is a question that is considered taking into account the characteristics of a particular structure. If the walls are thick, and even insulated from the inside, from the premises, then there is no need for this. But in most cases such work is still done.

The façade is vapor-insulated. The material is fastened with staples directly to the wall, or narrow slats are mounted under the roof and near the ground, onto which the insulator is nailed with a construction stapler. Suitable materials include foil, roofing felt or polyethylene. Holes are made in the vapor barrier at the top and bottom every 2 cm;
The sheathing is installed under the lining. The step between the bars is from half a meter to one and a half. If you are going to sheathe the house horizontally, the slats are placed vertically (and vice versa). All planks are checked with a level so that the lining lies as evenly as possible;
The pitch is not observed around openings - both windows and doors must be framed with slats;
Insulation is laid between the sheathing guides. It is especially convenient to use a plate one - it is cut into appropriate squares and fixed with tin washers;
The top of the wall is covered with waterproofing. Its film is attached to the sheathing beam with a stapler.

Now your walls are completely ready for covering.

Installation of lining

First of all, the direction of sheathing is selected.

Vertical. Visually it makes the house taller. In addition, there is an advantage that water will definitely not flow into such a casing if you install some element incorrectly. However, vertical cladding requires a wider board (not narrower than 8 cm), otherwise it will create the impression of excessive striping. Installation in this case begins from any corner of the house.

The first board is scrupulously checked for level: if it becomes skewed at the very beginning after the first meter, you will have to remove it and do it all over again.

Horizontal. Here work is done from the bottom up. When laying the first element, it would also be useful to use a level. The main condition is that each board must be laid with the tenon down and the groove up - in this position you are guaranteed against precipitation getting into the lining and rotting.

If you crooked the board, it will be difficult to rearrange it. The screws are much easier to dismantle and are easier to work with. However, as the lining shrinks, their caps may rise above the skin; You will have to check and adjust them periodically.

The installation process itself is very simple. The first board is installed extremely evenly and fixed in the chosen way on the sheathing.

The next element is driven into the groove of the previous one with a tenon and secured with clamps or screws.

And so on until the wall ends. Regular level monitoring is mandatory. To make control somewhat easier, you can pre-stretch strings through each meter, adjusted when pulling. Then it will be possible to navigate by them, whether the boards lie horizontally (vertically) enough.

The corners of the house are covered with corners. In the old days they were made only of tin, but now you can buy them from durable plastic, matching the wood. The platbands are removed from windows and doors before installation and returned to their place after completion of work.

Traditionally, lining is laid along the entire length of the wall. However, if there is not enough molding of boards, the strip is extended with scraps, and the seam is then masked. Not everyone likes this approach - even in this case, you can offer a herringbone layout, since sheathing the house with clapboard on the outside in this way can be even better and with less loss of lumber. The joints, evenly and in a certain order placed along the wall, do not catch the eye, and even create some color.

Home renovation services:

How to attach PVC panels to the ceiling? Everything is not as complicated as it seems. How to attach PVC panels to the ceiling? Everything is not as complicated as it seems High-quality and quick installation systems: heating water supply boiler room.
How to cover walls plastic panels? The most step-by-step instructions How to cover walls with plastic panels? The most step-by-step instructions High-quality and quick installation of systems: heating water supply.
How to cover a house with polystyrene foam Polystyrene foam is excellent insulation, effectively used to increase thermal insulation properties different types surfaces. It.
Wood processing becomes easier with an electric motor If you've ever been to a sawmill, you've probably seen circular saw, which is driven by an electric motor.
How to finish a balcony with lining: description of the process Today we will tell everyone who is interested what types of lining exist, how to prepare for installation, and we will describe the actual project itself.
Hallway renovation in panel house: What could be simpler? We form our first impression of a house and its owners as soon as we step on the threshold. Therefore, it is necessary to devote enough time and effort to the issue of repairs in the hallway. As a rule, the entrance hall is a corridor in panel houses.
How to paint the outside of a house with your own hands Painting facades is perhaps one of the most affordable and easiest types of finishing to do yourself. In this connection, owners of private real estate have […].
How to treat the outside of a timber house? How to treat the outside of a timber house? List of current options » Easy renovation of apartments and houses High-quality and quick installation of systems: .
How to paint the outside of a wooden house? How to paint the outside of a wooden house? Review correct options» Easy renovation of apartments and houses High-quality and quick installation of systems.
What is the best way to insulate a brick house from the outside? What is the best way to insulate a brick house from the outside? We consider ways and methods » Easy renovation of apartments and houses High-quality and quick installation.
How to cover the outside of a block house? How to cover the outside of a block house? Analysis of all materials and advice from builders » Easy renovation of apartments and houses High-quality and fast repair.
Basement waterproofing from outside groundwater. We do it in 3 stages: Waterproofing the basement from the outside from groundwater. We do it in 3 stages High-quality and quick installation of systems: heating water supply boiler room.
What type of foam is needed to insulate external walls? How not to go wrong with this choice. What kind of foam is needed to insulate the walls from the outside? How not to go wrong with this choice High-quality and quick installation of systems: water heating.
How to attach imitation timber from the outside? Let's create a pleasant look for your home. How to attach imitation timber from the outside? We create a pleasant look for your home High-quality and quick installation of systems: heating water supply cat.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the base from the outside with penoplex. Let's understand the intricacies of this matter. Do-it-yourself insulation of the base from the outside with penoplex. Let's understand the intricacies of this matter. High-quality and quick installation of systems: water heating.
What paint is best to paint the outside of a wooden house? Advice from experts in their field What paint is best to paint the outside of a wooden house? Advice from experts in their field High-quality and quick installation of water heating systems.
Let's look at how to paint the outside of a wooden house. What paint is best to paint the outside of a wooden house? The most popular construction and finishing material is wood and its “derivatives”. However, in addition to its remarkable qualities, the material also has […].

General algorithm of our company's work

We call you and take the necessary measurements

We select necessary materials for repair

We conclude a contract for the production of work

We carry out repairs within the terms specified in the contract

Design-Prestige Company

One of the oldest Russian companies in the repair market. We always care about quality!

Do-it-yourself clapboard cladding on the outside of a house

One of the best options for exterior finishing is clapboard cladding on the outside of the house. Thanks to this material, your home will begin new life, in a new guise. Although it differs from the interior, such finishing will not only give the building a beautiful appearance, but will also improve sound and thermal insulation. But for correct implementation work, you need to know how to choose the right lining, and how the outer cladding is performed with lining.

Types of lining

First you need to study the varieties of this material. First of all, there are two types:

Plastic. Helps create high-quality coating, which will last for many years because it does not corrode. It should also be noted high level moisture resistance and low attention requirements, i.e. no need for additional care.
Wooden. It has quite a beautiful appearance. Good soundproofing qualities and low level thermal conductivity.

Looking at wooden samples in more detail, we can distinguish two subtypes: regular and eurolining. This division is caused by the large abundance of imported material, provided that it differs significantly in quality and the types of wood used in production.

It should also be noted that foreign-made material is of higher quality and has a certain variety of geometric solutions.

How to choose a lining

Speaking about the choice of material for clapboard cladding, you should pay attention to some factors that determine the quality of the product:

First of all, when choosing wooden lining, it is humidity. This figure should not exceed 15%; if it is higher, then under the influence of the environment after some time a drying process will occur, this in turn will have a great impact on the appearance (cracks will form, deformation will occur and the exterior finish will be damaged).
The next factor is the integrity of the material. Under no circumstances should you accept products with defects or any damage.
Also, for wooden products, you need to pay attention to knots; their number should be minimal.

Exterior cladding of a house

The clapboard cladding process itself is divided into seven main stages, each of which is quite important, so the following can be distinguished:

preparation of materials;
vapor barrier device;
preparation and installation of the frame;
heat and waterproofing of the surface;
installation of an additional frame;
covering material.

Each of the points must be treated as responsibly as possible; any neglect can negatively affect the final result. But let’s move on directly to the work and consider each of the stages separately.

Preparation of materials

The first thing to start with is preparing materials for the work. Here is the minimum list of materials that will be needed:

Vapor barrier. For its arrangement, foil, polyethylene or roofing material can be used.
Wooden slats and boards. Will be needed for arranging the frame and fastening insulating materials.
Most often used as thermal insulation mineral wool slabs.
Waterproofing film.
And lining for cladding.

The quantity of each material is calculated individually depending on the surface area of which the finishing will be carried out.

Vapor barrier device

Moving directly to the process, the vapor barrier device begins. As already mentioned, foil, polyethylene or roofing felt can serve as it.

The main tasks for which it is equipped include ventilation of the facade.

The device is carried out as follows:

Provides wooden slats, which are fixed vertically.
The vapor barrier is directly attached to them.
After securing, they settle down ventilation holes, at the top and bottom of the covering.

Frame installation

The next step is to construct the frame. It is made with your own hands from boards. Lumber is used with a thickness of 4-5 centimeters and a width of 10 cm.

The boards are attached vertically with their sides to the wall using anchors. The distance between them depends on the size of the insulation, and should be 2-3 centimeters less.

Heat and waterproofing device

The next stage is the installation of insulating materials.

The first thing to do is attach the thermal insulation. For its arrangement, mineral wool slabs 5 centimeters thick are used. The insulation is laid in 2 layers so that there are no gaps between them. In this case, each layer must be equipped taking into account the displacement of the joints, i.e. Each slab of the second layer should lie centered on the joint of the first. Additional fastening is usually not required, since the material is sufficiently elastic and is able to adhere independently between the frame boards.

After this, the waterproofing material is attached. It uses a special film; it does not have the ability to hold back steam, but at the same time it does not allow moisture to pass through. Its fastening is carried out using construction stapler. In this case, each piece of film is overlapped with the previous one by at least 5 centimeters and is additionally glued with tape.

Important! The structure of the film is double-sided, with one side being smooth and the other being rough. For maximum rational use it is necessary to lay the smooth part towards the insulation, while the rough part will be turned towards the lining.

Construction of the second level frame

After arranging the surface insulation, it is necessary to install an additional frame.

To create it, wooden slats 3-4 centimeters thick are nailed on top of the original base and, accordingly, on the waterproofing.

This solution ensures good ventilation and also prevents the appearance of moisture. It is also necessary to provide a metal mesh at the bottom of the structure to prevent various kinds of insects and rodents from entering under the casing.

Exterior clapboard finishing

The time has come for the most significant and labor-intensive stage of work, and this is directly covering the house with clapboard on the outside. It is carried out as follows:

The material is prepared and the boards are cut to the required size.
The cladding process itself begins from the bottom, the first board is laid with the groove up. If there is no need for leveling, the material is fixed to the frame.
Next, the next board is laid and driven into the groove with a hammer, after which additional fastening of the lining is also carried out.
Further consolidation is carried out in the same way.
When the fixing is completed, it is necessary to paint the surface, or cover it with a special solution.

This kind of impregnation will give the surface a more aesthetic appearance and make it resistant to external influences.

Important! If painting, the surface must be sanded first.

For some types of paint, for example, oil paint, it is necessary to pre-treat the surface; this is done by applying drying oil, preferably in 2 layers, and you will need to wait until it dries completely, and then continue working.

Conclusion:

The process of covering the outside of a house with clapboard itself is quite labor-intensive and requires considerable effort. But despite this, the result cannot but please. After watching a video about how sheathing work is carried out, you will understand that everything is quite simple.

Cladding the outside of the house with clapboard: a step-by-step process

Cladding the outside of the house with clapboard is an excellent choice for those who decide to improve the exterior of the house, since such finishing will allow you to change it external design. In addition, the use of eurolining as a sheathing material will improve the insulation properties, in particular sound and heat.

This article will tell you not only how to cover the outside of a house with clapboards, but will also help you choose the right material.

Types of panels by raw material

In total, there are two main types of lining, depending on the raw materials - wooden and PVC. We can talk about which option should be preferred, and how plastic differs from wooden, only by studying their features.

Features of plastic external lining:

long service life (no rotting process);
no maintenance required;
external plastic lining is not exposed to environmental influences.

Features of wooden lining:

elegant design;
high sound insulation rates;
thermal conductivity is low.

Wood paneling

Wooden lining, also known as lining for exterior finishing, can be divided into a simple version and eurolining. The division takes into account the use of estimated data for comparison with generally accepted standards.

Basics of choosing eurolining

Before choosing a material for cladding, you should study several rules:

To avoid further deformation of the material, which occurs as a result of shrinkage and leads to the formation of cracks, you should choose a type of lining whose humidity will be in the range from 10 to 15%;

Checking humidity with a moisture meter

Advice: Ask the seller to confirm the declared humidity - if he refuses, there is reason to think about the advisability of the purchase.

Be sure to inspect the material for wormholes and foreign stains;
The number of knots in the selected material should be minimal.

Note! The exterior cladding of a house should be made from material made from coniferous trees, since hardwood (not counting aspen) is not suitable for external cladding.

Coniferous species are more preferable

Installation stages

Vapor barrier fasteners;
Installation of the frame directly;
Installation of thermal insulation;
Carrying out waterproofing;
Construction of the second frame;
Exterior clapboard finishing .

Initially, you should select a material that will act as a vapor barrier, usually roofing felt is used for these purposes, aluminum foil or even regular plastic film.

Upholstery with vapor barrier film

A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation of the facade of the house, for which the vapor barrier layer is nailed directly to the slats nailed to the wall. The slats should be attached at a distance of one meter, and their width should be approximately 2.5 centimeters. For additional ventilation, holes (20 mm) are made at the bottom and top between the slats.

Frame installation

The distance between the boards must be left less than the width of the insulation sheets by 1-2 centimeters.

Installation of thermal insulation

Thermal insulation placement is a further stage that requires finishing the house with clapboards on the outside.

It happens through the following steps:

Installation of mineral wool layers occurs without gaps between them;
To achieve this, it is necessary to lay two layers of mineral wool at a time, 50 mm thick;
The main feature of the masonry is that the joint of the lower slabs is covered with the middle of the top layer, and, due to its natural elasticity, no additional fasteners are required, which can be seen in the photo.

Installation of waterproofing

Attention! To get the ideal ratio, the hydrofilm should be laid with the smooth side facing the insulation.

Installation of the frame under the finishing cladding

According to the steps described in the instructions above, you should then proceed to install the second frame.

Slats should be nailed to the boards of the first frame on top of the hydrofilm. Their thickness should be 2-3 cm, width 0.5 mm. This makes it possible for additional ventilation and removal of condensation on the hydrofilm;

Timber frame for panels

To prevent rodents and insects from entering the space below, it should be sealed with a metal mesh.

Finishing the outer layer using lining

The final stage is the outer wall cladding with clapboard:

The process begins with the preparation of boards of the required length, you should start from the bottom, while the starting board is positioned with the grooves upward, a prerequisite is the use of a level to ensure its level position;
After making sure that the board is secured, you should attach it with nails (clamps). The workpiece must be leveled before fastening;

Installation on clamps

Next, the second sheet of lining is installed according to standard system tongue and groove To ensure that the tenon of the upper board fits tightly into the groove of the lower one, you should use a wooden hammer;
Having secured the second board, you should insert the rest.

Some installation secrets are shown in the photo

After the lining on the outside has undergone complete installation, they begin to vertically fix the boards at the corners of the boards. Here, a mandatory point is the presence of overlap when one overlaps the other.

In a similar way, they are issued window casings, the pediment is sheathed most often by horizontally fastening the boards. Only after completing the entire cladding process should you begin painting.

An analogue of simple painting can be coating with a special liquid, which acts as an impregnation for the outside of the lining. It not only protects the wood from any external influences, including insects, but also preserves the natural color of the wood. See also what characteristics painted lining has.

When starting simple painting, you should observe some nuances:

The entire surface is pre-treated with a grinding machine. It requires the presence of fixed sandpaper (grain 40-25-80 or 120);
In case of use oil paint, it is necessary to apply drying oil in two layers, and apply paint only after it has completely dried.

Results

Despite the fact that anyone can take advantage of the opportunity to cover the outside of a house with clapboards, this process requires certain physical and time expenditures. An excellent analogue wood finishing There will be plastic outer lining.

On our website you can find a large number of videos that allow you to learn some valuable tips and step-by-step instructions.

How to properly cover the outside of a house with clapboard?

In today's construction markets there is a wide variety of materials for exterior home decoration, but the greatest demand is in Lately uses lining. This is due to the fact that this material is the most affordable and easy to install. Thanks to the lining, you can give any home a modern aesthetic look and protect it from exposure external environment. But in order for your home to delight you with its comfort and warmth, you need to know how to sheathe the outside of the house with clapboard.

Exterior decoration of the walls of a frame house.

The main advantages of this finishing material:

long service life;
with high-quality processing, resistance to rotting increases;
ease and ease of processing;
increases the thermal and sound insulation of the building.

Types and features of lining

Lining is divided into classes that reflect the quality of the product. Consequently, the higher the class, the better the product is processed, the less knots there are. But in general, the class determines the quality of the wood itself, since the processing of the boards goes through the same process - sawing and drying.

When covering the outside with clapboard, it is necessary to take into account that each wood material becomes smaller in size as it dries. There is a possibility that after finishing the boards will lose adhesion to each other and a gap will form. To avoid such misunderstandings, the boards should be kiln-dried.

All cladding material is divided into:

simple lining;
eurolining.

The only difference is in the processing of the material. Eurolining has its advantages, such as:

Methods for fastening lining.

smooth surface;
excellent geometry;
little presence of natural moisture;
the grooves in the connection are much deeper.

Eurolining is very easy and quick to update by treating the surface of the boards with decorative wax. Thanks to these properties, it is considered one of the most economical cladding materials, and is also more durable.

How to fasten lining panels for exterior finishing?

A more aesthetic option for cladding a house is when each board is attached to the formwork using special nails or self-tapping screws. Fastening is done through the ridge. As soon as the board is attached, the groove of the subsequent board is put on its ridge and the entire lining is mounted using this principle.

There is one drawback to fastening boards with nails and screws. Since wood has the ability to dry out, after drying the fastener caps may stick out. But this problem can be avoided by using special clamps for fastening. They are put on the comb and attached to the sheathing. This type of fastening has its own advantage - the boards remain undamaged by nails, which means their service life is extended.

Marking and installation of the frame. Before sheathing the house, the walls are marked and the frame is installed. It is also possible that the lining can be sewn directly onto the walls, but their surface is rarely even, which is precisely why a frame is needed.

External walls are sheathed with clapboard in a horizontal position, and the beams must be installed vertically.

The beams for the frame are nailed to the wall, maintaining a gap of 0.5-1.5 m in relation to each other. Optimal distance- 1 m. If the distance is too large, then during drying the grooves may not match, the boards will jump out and deformation will occur. During cladding, the plane that is formed from the beams must be located at the same level. To do this, they are installed using a level and, if necessary, pieces of slats are placed under them so that the future wall is level.

Covering the frame with lining boards

Cladding with clapboard is done from bottom to top, starting from any corners. First, nail the board from below, having previously set it level and so that the tenon points upward. The second board is put with a groove on the tenon of the lower board. When installing the second board, it is necessary to press the wedges on both edges and the center as tightly as possible to the bottom board. The 2nd board is attached using a pre-selected method. As mentioned above, you can use screws, nails or clamps. After fastening, the pegs are pulled out and the 3rd board is mounted using the same method.

When clapboard cladding is performed, the tenon must be positioned upward. This must be observed so that precipitation does not fall into the grooves of the cladding material and the process of rotting does not occur.

When door and window openings are sheathed, sheathing is installed around them.

If the size of the sheathed facade does not allow the use of full-length boards, then they can be secured into a joint, which can then be decorated with a batten. Installation of the lining can be done in a herringbone pattern or in a checkerboard pattern.

To provide additional thermal insulation, after installing the frame, you can lay insulation material. But this needs to be thought out in advance, since the interval between the bars should be equal to the size of the insulation. If insulation will be installed, it is necessary to make a device ventilation ducts and vapor barrier.

Cladding with clapboard can also be done plastic material. Plastic panels for exterior finishing are mounted similarly to wooden material.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of house cladding wooden clapboard outside:

use of material under conditions of sudden temperature changes;
environmental friendliness;
possibility to apply various variations with design execution;
ease of installation, which allows even a non-specialist to complete the work;
long service life (if the material was installed efficiently and conscientiously);
the possibility of installing additional heat and vapor barrier, which helps reduce heating costs in the cold season;
the ability to dismantle old panels and install a new facing covering in a short period of time.

Disadvantages of exterior finishing with wooden lining:

if the wood is not treated with a special composition, the risk of ignition of the material increases;
natural material has natural flaws - cracks, knots, tarry discharge;
fungal formations, mold and darkening of wood;
It is necessary to regularly treat the surface with paints and varnishes.

But if you process and prepare the wood in a timely manner, you can avoid many of the above problems.

Protection of external wood lining

After installation it is necessary to carry out coating wooden structures special compounds.

When applying antiseptics, paints and oils, the surface is protected from premature rotting, darkening, and cracking.

When choosing paints and varnishes, you need to pay attention to chemical composition, the presence of various additional pigments and fillers.

Great importance in any paint and varnish material plays the presence of a film-forming substance, which plays a binding role for the entire substance. After applying paint to a wooden surface, a chemical reaction occurs. A film is formed on the surface, which provides protection and gives an aesthetic appearance. When choosing paint or varnish for wooden facades, it is necessary to take into account weather conditions, atmospheric influences, temperature changes, and humidity conditions.

In order to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards, you do not need to have special training or skills.

Montazh vagonki

How to do clapboard cladding on the outside of a house

Cladding a house with clapboards on the outside is the most popular view its finishing. This is due to the availability and simplicity of methods that allow you to give any design an absolutely finished look.

It is the protection of a wooden house from external factors increases the service life of any building for many years. The article will tell you how to properly cover the outside of a house with clapboards.

Types and features of lining

Before covering the outside of the house with clapboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its types. Plastic and wood materials are used to decorate the house.

Advantages of wooden lining:

Great appearance, which allows you to create both interior decoration, and beautifully sheathed on the outside.
High degree of sound insulation.
Installation is simple.
Natural material, which is ideal option for a country house.
Low thermal conductivity.

The lining for exterior cladding of a house is most often plastic or vinyl.

Advantages of plastic material:

Durability. Correct installation protects the wooden structure from the process of rotting.
Resistant to different temperatures.
Does not support combustion.
Resistant to weather conditions. Not subject to corrosion.
Simple and quick installation, this allows construction to be carried out in short time without involving specialists.
Easy home care. The material does not require special processing, which is used for wooden panels.
Presentable appearance, which creates a glossy, smooth surface. The building looks especially beautiful when the color is chosen correctly.
Water repellent properties. Plastic does not deteriorate when exposed to precipitation such as rain or snow.
Affordable price.

The disadvantages of plastic include:

Very low resistance to even minor mechanical impacts and pressure; impacts can leave dents in the material.
Decorative elements cannot be properly fixed on surfaces lined with plastic panels.

When choosing options for external finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to determine its type, depending on the shape of the material profile.

The lining can be:

Panel having simple form, imitating a wooden beam.
Calm, different enough smooth surface, on which after installation the grooves are practically invisible.
Eurolining, which has a tongue-and-groove connection and an enlarged tenon, which increases its drainage and ventilation properties.
“American”, the presence of a recess on the inside, allows you to simulate the laying of boards overlapping.
Block house. These are panels that have a convex surface on the outside and look like a log building.

The photo shows some types of panels.

Panel plastic lining

Advice: When choosing a material for the outer cladding of a house, you need to pay attention to the use of lining specifically for external works. They can be distinguished from panels used indoors only by quality characteristics, they are difficult to distinguish by appearance.

How to make lathing for lining

Decorating the outside of a house with clapboards begins with installing sheathing for it. This design is a frame for attaching panels.

Facade PVC lining can be mounted on a lathing made of wooden beams approximately 60 millimeters wide, approximately 27 millimeters thick. A metal profile is also used for the same purposes.

By type, the sheathing can be:

Vertical.
Horizontal.
With counter-lattice device. This design is formed for:

ensuring good ventilation of the space under the casing;
placing a layer of thermal insulation. Used only when installing wooden sheathing.

Tip: When choosing a suitable option, you should be guided by the location of the panels of finishing material. When placing material elements horizontally, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

To fix the metal profile, the following tools are needed:

Scissors for cutting metal.
Screwdriver.
Building level.
Plumb.
Construction corner.
Roulette.
Electric impact drill.

The instructions for carrying out the work are as follows:

UD support profiles are installed.
The elements are fixed on the extreme sides, which are located perpendicular to the sheathing parts.
The intermediate components of the structure are inserted and fixed.
Along the edges of door and window openings, parallel to them and along the perimeter of all protruding elements that are not subject to cladding, additional parts are installed.
The location of the fastening dowels must be provided in increments of 15 to 25 centimeters, which will ensure reliable fastening of the metal profiles to the base.

Tip: For uneven wall Backings should be used for fasteners. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine their height. Otherwise, when attaching the profile, it will bend, and it will be impossible to align the part.

The main profiles of the sheathing are inserted into the guides at their ends and secured with screws at the edges. It is best if these are special screws with a tip like a drill.
Additionally, you can use mounting hangers, which will give the profile, and ultimately the entire structure, greater rigidity.
The edges of the hangers are bent at an angle of 90 degrees and attached to the installation points of the profile.
The profile itself is installed and fixed to the guides.
The bent wings of the suspensions are screwed on.
The excess part protruding above the profile is cut off.

How to make wooden lathing for lining

For work you will need the following tools:

Hacksaw.
Electric jigsaw.
Electric drill.
Screwdriver.
Screwdrivers.
Chisel.
Hammer.
Building level.
Roulette.
Construction plumbs.
Construction corner.

Materials for construction:

Beam for lathing installation.
Board for substrates.
Boards for constructing a frame.
To fasten the timber to the wall - screws and dowels.

Decorating the outside of the house with clapboard begins with marking the places for installing the outer frame parts.

Tip: During installation, you should carefully control the location of the beams or boards around the perimeter; the quality of the entire frame depends on this.

To level the surface, substrates are used or some parts are processed to form a single plane at one level. For example, the bars can be sharpened or the base of the building can be combed. The choice of option is influenced by the type and size of the irregularities. If they are all over the wall, it is better to take substrates. To determine the distance of placement of the beams from the wall, the highest point located on the surface is determined, and from it the position of the parts in the frame begins to be counted with a margin of up to three millimeters, which are necessary to level out the unevenness of the beams themselves used in the sheathing.
The bars are secured with screws in increments of approximately 25 centimeters along the entire perimeter of the sheathing.
Door and window openings and protruding parts of the walls along the perimeter are covered with the same elements, which allows you to securely fix the edges of the cladding parts.
Intermediate bars are installed. At the same time, they should not be rigidly attached to the frame elements, especially if the wood is poorly dried. Rigid fixation of parts due to thermal deformation or changes in humidity can cause a change in their position in the casing. This may disrupt general form and reduce the rigidity of the entire structure.
When using substrates, the edges of the beam are secured, and the correctness of its position is controlled by the level and plumb lines.

Advice: All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing must be treated with protective compounds with fire retardants and antiseptics, which will prevent the appearance of rot and fungi, protect against excess moisture, and reduce the possibility of fire.

What are the advantages of ventilated facades?

Ventilated PVC facade lining has several important advantages.

These include:

Heat saving. When installing thermal insulation on external walls, the heat storage capacity. Ventilated facade lining on a building is an opportunity to create an energy-saving surface on it. Residential buildings with such systems installed are approximately 30% more energy efficient than those without such systems.
Long service life. Without repairs, a ventilated façade can last up to 50 years, depending on the materials used. With a specially designed structure fastening scheme, thermal deformations that can appear during daily and seasonal fluctuations in atmospheric temperatures are absorbed. It leads to internal stresses, created in the cladding material and in load-bearing elements, which can cause cracks and even destruction of the cladding.
Facades can be covered all year round. In this case, solutions and adhesive compositions no need to use. External factors do not have any influence on the timing of work.
This design protects the building well from dampness and harmful atmospheric aggression. The presence of an air gap is a fundamental difference from other types of building cladding. With the help of a ventilated facade, any moisture is removed, and in the presence of a pronounced aggressive environment, the curtain structure helps to create reliable protection, which will counteract the negative factors that destroy the elements of the load-bearing structures of the building.
A wide variety of architectural forms and solutions for such facades.
They allow you to create a comfortable microclimate in the building with your own hands. Thermal insulation and the presence of a ventilated air gap helps to increase heat retention from the external walls. In summer, the ventilated façade acts as a sun screen; it reflects most of the heat entering the house, which reduces the load on air conditioners. During the cold season, heat is retained inside, reducing the load on the heating system.
The surface of the outer wall is leveled. Panels can be installed on walls made of:

concrete;
bricks (see Cladding brick walls no problem);
wood;
metal structures.

It is not necessary to level the surface. When installing a suspended ventilated facade system, brackets are used, the length of which can vary.

Fireproof. Materials for the manufacture of ventilated facades do not burn or burn weakly, have a low ability to generate smoke, and the combustion products are low-hazard in terms of toxicity.
Environmentally friendly. There are no additives or components that are harmful to health.
Easy to dismantle. Design curtain facades facilitates the dismantling of a certain part of the facade elements. By replacing a damaged cladding element, the consequences of an accident or other damage can be easily eliminated.
Increased sound and noise insulation.

What methods of installing lining exist?

The exterior of the house is finished with clapboard different ways fastening panels.

Methods of fastening lining panels

For this we use:

Kleimers. They are clamps that have the form of a tongue-and-groove connection. In this case, the panel is securely pressed against the wall, the next part closes the groove of the previous one, which makes the fastener completely invisible. The clamps themselves are fixed with special screws or nails, and are used for installing lining made of wood or MDF.
Regular nails.
Decorative screws.
Staples, as for upholstery. Used when installing plastic lining. They are attached with a special gun, the wall is sheathed very quickly.

The video in this article discusses in detail how clapboard finishing is done on the outside of a house. After high-quality lining of the house with clapboard, it acquires a noble and attractive appearance, and additional protection from adverse external factors.

02.12.2016 0 Comments

Every person wants to live in a comfortable, beautiful house. Therefore, thousands of our compatriots prefer to use lining. Decorating a house with clapboard has a number of advantages. A relatively inexpensive, durable and at the same time beautiful material will become good choice for residents of regions with different climates. It is important that it is not necessary to use the services of professionals, paying them a lot of money for their work. Anyone can do the clapboard exterior of a house with their own hands - just study the theory and have a minimum set of tools.

In contact with

Classmates

How to choose a lining?

When going to the store, decide in advance what kind of lining you need - wooden or plastic. These types of lining have certain advantages and disadvantages. For example, plastic has a lower cost and does not dry out, which could cause cracks to appear. Also, high humidity will not cause the facade of your home to become stained with mold. On the other hand, wood tolerates better low temperatures, inherent in many regions of our country, and ultraviolet rays do not cause it to become fragile. Therefore, only you can make the final choice.

There are usually no problems with the choice of plastic lining - the manufacturing technology has long been proven, and the main thing here is not to make a mistake with the choice of manufacturer. With wood it's more complicated. It is advisable to buy material with a humidity of no more than 10-15%. Otherwise, over time it will dry out and cracks will appear. Try to ensure that there are no knots on the lining - they not only spoil the appearance, but also often fall out. And holes in the finishing of the facade will not add beauty to it.

What tools will be useful?

When the material is selected and purchased in sufficient quantity, it's time to collect everything necessary tools. In order to successfully complete the job, you will need:

screwdriver;
drill;
saw;
mallet;
level;
screwdriver;
pliers;
marker.

As you can see, all materials can be purchased at any store or borrowed from friends. There is nothing highly specialized or worth a lot of money on the list. When all necessary tools assembled, you can begin cladding the outside of the house with clapboards.

The sequence of operations for covering a house with clapboard

Before starting work, you need to know what the diagram of the future structure looks like.

Scheme the right pie covering the house with clapboard.

Preparatory work

As with any other construction work Before you start covering the house with clapboard, you need to prepare the foundation. If you are sheathing a wooden house, then make sure that there is no weak points– affected by mold or rot. Otherwise, take action by treating the walls with a special antiseptic.

Regardless of the material of the walls, thoroughly clean them of dust and dirt. All cracks must be carefully caulked and sealed - even tiny cracks can cause serious heat loss in winter. And removing the lining to eliminate cracks is a huge amount of unnecessary work.

The wall should be perfectly flat and as smooth as possible.

Let's take care of the vapor barrier

IN Living areas are always damp. And moisture will inevitably, even through the smallest pores, partially seep into the street. And under the lining there is usually a layer thermal insulation material. If it gets wet, its properties will sharply decrease, and it itself can quickly become unusable.

That's why it is extremely important to ensure good ventilation and protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture. It is best to use roofing felt for this - a durable and strong material. But it is not too cheap, and its heavy weight can cause some trouble during installation. So, you can also use thick construction polyethylene - a less reliable, but cheaper and easier to install material.

Wooden blocks are installed directly on the wall. The optimal distance between them is 1 meter, and the cross-section of the bars is 2×2-3×3 centimeters. This will provide sufficient clearance between the wall and the insulating material for ventilation. The selected material is attached to the bars. Make sure that there is also a gap at the bottom and top for ventilation. After this, we can assume that the vapor barrier has been successfully installed.

Working on the frame

Next important stage– frame. It is necessary for comfortable and easy installation of thermal insulation. When installing, it is best to use boards 3-4 centimeters thick and at least 10 centimeters wide. The boards are attached vertically. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the insulation sheets, and ideally be 1-2 centimeters less. This will ensure the most reliable fixation, and at the same time will not cause too much compression, which could lead to a significant deterioration in the thermal insulation qualities of the material.

The boards must be carefully leveled using a level - even small unevenness will be especially noticeable after clapboard covering. In addition, it is very important to choose high-quality boards. Do not take the material under any circumstances high humidity. When drying, it can be seriously deformed, which will lead to the destruction of the lining or, at least, deterioration appearance Houses.

Laying thermal insulation

Particularly important in our harsh climate high-quality thermal insulation. Any material can be used here, but most people prefer mineral wool- cheap, easy to install and durable option.

Laying starts from the bottom. Inserted between two boards, sheets of cotton wool are securely fixed and do not require additional fastening. The next layer is laid directly on top of the previous one. It is very important here to ensure that there are no gaps between the sheets - even a gap of half a centimeter can cause serious heat loss, especially on windy days.

Don't forget about waterproofing

To reliably protect thermal insulation, which in most cases is afraid of moisture, from snow, rain, fog and simply high humidity, you need to take care reliable waterproofing. It is best to use a special waterproofing film - it allows the materials to “breathe”, but at the same time reliably protects it from moisture.

Installation does not take much time - the film is laid on top of the heat-insulating material and fixed to the boards using staples or nails. To ensure maximum reliability, it is advisable to make a small overlap (5-10 centimeters) and seal the joint with wide tape. Moreover, The film should be laid with the smooth side inward and the rough side outward– many non-professionals do not know this.

Let's start covering

All preparatory work has been completed, and now the most important stage begins - covering the walls with clapboard.

It is advisable to prepare the lining in advance - adjust the material, and if necessary, cut it into pieces of suitable length. The first board is attached horizontally at the very bottom, with the groove up. Use a level to lay it perfectly level. It should be fixed directly to the frame. To do this, you can use both ordinary self-tapping screws and clamps. The second option is more troublesome, but if it is necessary to dismantle it (to replace thermal insulation or for other reasons), the lining will definitely not be damaged.

Methods of fastening the lining.

Next, the lining is installed on top so that the tenon fits into the groove. To completely eliminate the cracks, you need to use a mallet - light blows along the entire length will allow you to fit the lining as tightly as possible. At the joints, the lining must also be adjusted as tightly as possible so that the gaps are minimal. This applies to both joints on walls and at corners when laying perpendicularly. Only with careful fitting will you ensure maximum attractiveness of the exterior of your home.

Now, knowing how to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards, you can complete all the work without unnecessary difficulties.

In contact with

Is it possible to clapboard the outside of a house? How to sheathe the outside of a house with clapboards: consistent technology of work

Selecting tools and material for sheathing

Preparing walls and installing sheathing

Installation of lining from lining

Types of lining

How to choose a lining

Stages of work

Installation of vapor barrier

Frame installation

Placement of thermal insulation

Securing waterproofing

Installation of the second frame

Cladding on the outside

How to cover a house with clapboards with your own hands

Step 1 – Choosing wooden lining

Step 2 - Calculation of wooden lining

Step 3 - Tools and material

Step 4 - Preparing the lining for installation

Step 5 - Cladding

5.1 Installation of sheathing under the lining

5.2 Insulating the wall under the lining

5.3 Fastening the lining

5.5 Decorative design of lining

Do-it-yourself clapboard paneling - video guide

Buying lining

Before sheathing

Installation of lining

Home renovation services:

General algorithm of our company's work

Design-Prestige Company

Do-it-yourself clapboard cladding on the outside of a house

Types of lining

How to choose a lining

Exterior cladding of a house

Preparation of materials

Vapor barrier device

Frame installation

Heat and waterproofing device

Construction of the second level frame

Exterior clapboard finishing

Conclusion:

Cladding the outside of the house with clapboard: a step-by-step process

Types of panels by raw material

Basics of choosing eurolining

Installation stages

Frame installation

Installation of thermal insulation

Installation of waterproofing

Installation of the frame under the finishing cladding

Finishing the outer layer using lining

Results

How to properly cover the outside of a house with clapboard?

Types and features of lining

How to fasten lining panels for exterior finishing?

Covering the frame with lining boards

Advantages and disadvantages

Protection of external wood lining

Montazh vagonki

How to do clapboard cladding on the outside of a house

Types and features of lining

How to make lathing for lining

How to make wooden lathing for lining

What are the advantages of ventilated facades?

What methods of installing lining exist?

How to choose a lining?

What tools will be useful?

The sequence of operations for covering a house with clapboard

Preparatory work

Let's take care of the vapor barrier

Working on the frame

Laying thermal insulation

Don't forget about waterproofing

Let's start covering

Latest

You need to know this