We build our bathhouse ourselves: how to properly build a bathhouse building from timber. How to build a sauna from timber yourself How to build a sauna with your own hands from timber

We propose to build the simplest and cheapest, but quite convenient small sauna, the dimensions of which allow it to be placed anywhere on the site, and the available technology and low price make it possible for anyone to have such a bathhouse if they wish. The dimensions of the building are only 3x3 meters, the height is 2 meters, the bathhouse has a combined steam room and washing room with a stove and a relaxation room. All construction works should be produced taking into account the requirements.

For a small bathhouse, we choose cheap but quite satisfactory quality materials. What do you need to prepare?

Table of building materials

Materials	Quantity	Illustration
Cement M400	150 kg
Sawn timber 150×150 mm	3.5 m3
	0.3 m3
	25 m/p.
	0.5 m3
	0.3 m3
	500 pcs.
	10 m2
	30 pcs.

Nails and screws various sizes, metal corners for rafter systems, construction fittings, windows and doors. You can make windows and doors yourself (cheap, but time-consuming, and quite difficult) or buy ready-made ones (quick and will cost less in the end). You will need insulation, electrical cables and fittings.

We specially provided all materials in reserve. Firstly, during any construction it is impossible to do without unproductive waste. Secondly, lumber and hardware are always useful on the farm. If you have the opportunity and desire, you can make a water supply and drainage. There is no desire or opportunity - the bathhouse will “function” anyway, only the water will have to be carried into a boiler installed in the stove (for hot) and into a barrel (for cold) in buckets. We choose the simplest option - engineering plumbing systems Let's not do it.

Stages of bathhouse construction

To make the technology easier to understand, we will divide the entire process of building a log house into several stages:

• foundation;
• log house;
• roof;
• floors;
• window and door openings;
• electrical wiring;
• cladding of external and internal walls.

Foundation

We choose columnar concrete.

Step, No.	Description
	We make markings on the ground. In plan, the dimensions of the bathhouse are 3x3 meters, the distance between the columns is 1.5 meters. The partition between the rooms is not load-bearing; there is no need to build a foundation underneath it. Drive pegs around the perimeter and stretch ropes between them. Along the ropes, mark the position of the intermediate posts.
Step 2.	Dig holes 50–60 cm deep, approximately 40 cm wide, and at the bottom make a sand cushion 15–20 cm thick.
Step 3.	If the soil is clayey, there is no need to make formwork; pour concrete directly into the holes. Give the concrete time to set approximately two weeks.
Step 4.	Mark the location of the stove; according to our project, it will be located between the combined steam room with a washing room and the rest room - this location will allow you to heat two rooms at once. You need to make a deeper foundation for the stove, preferably to the depth of soil freezing. But if the stove is not very complex and massive, then a depth of 1 m is enough; make a sand cushion 25-30 cm thick. If you are still afraid that the foundation may “undermine” in winter, place holes around the perimeter foam boards 2÷3 cm thick. They will absorb the swelling forces, the foundation will remain motionless under any climatic conditions. How to lay a stove is a large and interesting topic; a separate article is needed to consider it.
Step 4.	We recommend not pouring them, but walling them with concrete blocks measuring 20x30x60 mm. First, level the concrete a little at the base, use a hydraulic level and cement-sand mortar for this. Next, place the outermost column using cement-sand mortar align in height and place intermediate posts. At the same time, use blocks to “pull up” the foundation under the stove; it should be higher than the columns by the height of the beams, floor beams and floorboards.

Columnar foundation (with the first crown)

Strapping and frame

There are many various options connections of beams (see photo), we will use the simplest ones: at the corners in the paw, and the end connections in half a tree without a trace.

Step 1. Once again we check the distance between the columns, if there are problems, we trim it a little.

Step 2. It is highly advisable to process the first crown (or better yet, two) antiseptics. We lay them on two or three layers of roofing felt. We mark the position of window and door openings on the first crown. We lay the first row, be sure to fasten it with dowels in the corners, it is advisable to put intermediate dowels as well.

In the photo - waterproofed columns and the first crown laid

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

Step 3. Place the beams of the lower floor, the distance between them is 1.2÷1.5 meters, the connection is half a tree without any residue. Pay very close attention to this stage; correcting the mistakes made will be very difficult, and often impossible. You'll have to take it apart and do it all over again. The corners do not need to be filed; for a small bathhouse this is not necessary; just place the ends of the timber in these places in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 4. For inter-crown insulation, you can use modern tape insulation or traditional tow. It is, of course, easier and faster to work with tape. Each crown must be checked according to its spatial position.

Step 5. We install wooden or metal dowels through the row, the distance between them is about a meter. In the corners of window and door openings, dowels should be placed at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the edge.

Nagel – photo

It is very important - drill the hole for the dowel strictly vertically, the dowel should fit into it with a gap. Otherwise during natural shrinkage and shrinkage, the rows of the bathhouse may sag. The dowel should hold 1÷2 rows of the log house.

Step 6. Install ceiling beams. They need to be placed without reaching two rows to the end of the log house. The approximate height of the bath is two meters, but if you get a little more or a little less, there’s nothing to worry about, it’s not critical. Ceiling beams are sawn down into half a tree without leaving any residue; for our small bathhouse it is enough to install two ceiling beams.

Step 7 Lay down the top two rows of timber.

It is important that they must be fixed very firmly with dowels; the dowels must fit into the holes with force. This is done so that the rafter system does not “move apart” the crowns - the last row will serve as a mauerlat.

Step 8. Lay a temporary ceiling, use any boards for this, grab them only in a few places, and remove them after completing work on the roof.

Video – Bathhouse made of timber

Video - Beam connections

The main task when constructing any building made of timber is to get it under the roof as quickly as possible; all subsequent work can be done slowly. We will go this way too.

Roof

There are two options: gable or single slope. For a bathhouse measuring 3x3, you can use the simplest option - a lean-to slope.

If you choose this option, then you need to do the ceiling right away. For a bathhouse, it must be insulated; you can choose mineral wool (much more expensive and more complex) or polystyrene foam (cheaper and faster). Let's dwell on simple version– foam insulation. It is not afraid of moisture, and there is no need to use various steam and water barriers.

Prices for foam insulation

PSB foam insulation

Insulation needs to be installed in several stages:

• nail edged boards to the ceiling beams from below, 20 mm thick is sufficient;
• lay foam boards on them. Place them as tightly as possible, avoid gaps. Polystyrene foam can be cut perfectly with a special carpenter's knife under a ruler. During the marking period, provide dimensions 1÷1.5 cm larger - the foam will shrink during installation, the insulation will become airtight;
• Lay any boards on top of the beams, these can be various sections, slabs, etc. The main requirement for them is to withstand the weight of people during the installation of the roof. After finishing roofing works No one will walk on the roof anymore.

If the roof is gable, then make a temporary ceiling, and insulation can be done later. Is everything ready? Great, let's build a roof.

№№	Illustration	Description and explanations
Step 1.		Check the vertical position and dimensions of the top crown. The dimensions are normal - excellent, there are significant horizontal deviations - no problem, we will level the horizontality with rafters.
Step 2.		Determine the angle of inclination of the slope. We recommend an inclination angle of approximately 20°. More important point– in which direction will it flow? rainwater, take into account the features of the site, the location of the entrance doors and the features of existing buildings.
Step 3.		Place a stop for the rafters at the calculated height. It's easy to do - install vertical supports from beams of a given height, place a horizontal beam on them. The distance between the supports is approximately 1.5 meters. The structure can be assembled without cuts; it is enough to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. In order for the stop to withstand angular forces, secure it with corner boards to the floor beams.
Step 4.		Measure the length of the rafters taking into account the overhang. For our case, 3.2 meters is enough. For rafters, use 50x100 mm boards; for a 3x3 meter bathhouse, 6 pieces are enough.
Step 5.		Install the outer rafters, stretch a rope between them and lay all the rest along it. To secure it to the beams, it’s safer to make notches; if you don’t have the desire or skill, use metal corners.
Step 6.		As roofing we chose ondulin - one of the cheapest and fairly high-quality materials. You should not use various advertised hydrobarriers. Firstly, if you install the roofing material correctly, there will be no leaks. Secondly, if they exist, then no barriers will help: they will sag under the weight of the water and tear over time.
Step 7		Lathing. Ondulin is in many ways similar to ordinary asbestos slate, the difference is less physical characteristics on the perception of vertical forces. This means that the sheathing should be laid more often; each sheet of ondulin should rest on four slats. The distance between the slats is 35÷40 cm. You can use narrow slats instead unedged boards, they are almost the same in cost, but when nailing ondulin, there is less chance that the nail will “go nowhere.”
Step 8		Carefully align the first row, do not rush the sheets to arrive immediately; for beginners, it is advisable to lay out the entire row and check its position, and only then pick up a hammer and nails. Ondulin can be fastened with ordinary slate nails; fixation is carried out in the upper wave. The lower the slope angle, the greater the overlap of sheets should be. In our case, the sheets should overlap by about ten centimeters. Be careful not to overdo it with driving force, so as not to damage the wave. If you wish, install a drainage system.
Step 9		Fill up the spaces between the rafters and the wall of the bathhouse on the side of the elevation of the slope with boards, install wind boards.

That's it, urgent work is done, the log house can be left for the winter. During this time, the bathhouse will shrink and the relative humidity will stabilize to natural values. If you want to wash faster in your own bathhouse, continue construction work.

For a small bathhouse, it is not necessary to install logs. The distance between the floor beams is within one meter, take boards of size thirty, they will not sag.

Important note: do not press the floorboards with great force; they may swell when wet.

It is highly advisable to make a small clone of the floor towards the steam room rack for water drainage. You can install a grate in this place, or you can leave it like that - the water will still find the cracks and leave. There are no special water drains required. Firstly, columnar foundations will allow water to soak into the ground without problems. Secondly, a small bathhouse means little water consumption. To tilt the floor, you should place wooden pads on the floor beams; make the floor tilt small, 2÷3° will suit you.

Video - How to make a floor with insulation in a bathhouse

Wiring

The main requirement is to strictly follow the provisions of the PUE (Rules for the installation of electrical equipment). Let's give some practical advice.

Video - Electrical installation of a bathhouse

Video - Lighting in the bathhouse

Making windows and doors yourself is difficult; you need not only experience, but also special equipment and machines. It is much more convenient to buy ready-made products, including metal-plastic ones. To install them, you need to perform several sequential operations.

Step 1. The existing openings should be aligned in size; during the laying of the log house, no one cut each beam. Mark on the wall linear dimensions openings and gasoline or electric saw cut off the ends of the beams protruding beyond the dimensions.

Step 2. Make frames for windows and doors from 50x150 mm boards. There is no need to assemble them into a tenon; it is enough to drive ordinary nails into the ends. It is very important - leave a distance of 3-4 centimeters between the top beam and the frame for shrinkage of the log house. No more needed, the bathhouse has a low height.

Step 3. Insert the prepared boxes into the openings and secure them with nails or screws. Insulate the gap at the top of the box, you can use tow or polyurethane foam.

Video - Features of preparing openings in a timber house before installing windows/doors

Video - Casing, window openings in a wooden house

Windows and doors are inserted using the usual method. Now you can begin covering the internal and external walls.

Let's start with the internal ones. For the steam room and washing room, you need to use only natural lining; for the rest room, you can use any other materials, from plywood or OSB to plastic lining. Let’s look at cladding technology using lining as an example; it’s easier to work with all other materials.

This is an important operation and requires great care. For the frame, use 20x50 mm slats, make preliminary markings. The wall must be level, all large bulges must be eliminated.

Step 1. Nail the outer slats at the corners to a level, stretch a rope between them and install the remaining slats along it, the distance between them is 40÷50 cm.

Step 2. Check the distance between the floor and ceiling at the corners of the bath. If there is a difference, eliminate it using the first and last rows of lining. Leave small gaps (1÷2 cm) between the lining, floor and ceiling. The gaps will be covered with baseboards. Ceiling skirting boards(baguettes) nail to the lining, and not to the ceiling, otherwise, during fluctuations in the size of the walls, deformation of the cladding is possible.

Step 3. To fix the lining, use nails 1.5÷2 cm long; they need to be driven into the groove of the lining.

Fastening the lining with a clamp

For external cladding, you can use any materials; the stages of work are normal. If the bathhouse is small and cheap, choose inexpensive materials. Modern construction technologies allow them to be made beautiful and of good quality. Windows and doors are finished with platbands.

Finishing direction	Illustration	Basic information
Vertical		Vertical fastening of panels has a big drawback - the boards heat up unevenly along their length, which negatively affects their service life. Vertical cladding is optimally suited for steam rooms operated primarily in conditions of high temperature and low air humidity, i.e. in sauna mode. To ensure more efficient air circulation in the space between the insulation and the lining, several holes are usually drilled in the sheathing.
		In the case of a horizontal arrangement, temperature deformations of the lining material will be much less noticeable. Horizontally oriented finishing allows you to visually expand a small steam room. At horizontal mounting panels behind them will provide more efficient air circulation - in this situation, the skin will be attached to a vertically oriented frame, as a result of which the gap will also be vertical. In addition, with this orientation of the frame it will be much more difficult for rodents to get into the space behind the skin. Horizontal lining is attached much faster and easier than vertical lining. Important! If you decide to orient the trim panels horizontally, make sure that the groove “looks” down.

Video - Do-it-yourself sauna made of timber

Following traditions and in order to save money, most owners of their own plots build baths from high-quality, but inexpensive materials. For example - wood.

As a rule, such steam rooms are built from logs or timber.

Properties of lumber

The popularity of baths of this type is understandable.

Advantages

1. If a bathhouse is built from timber 100 by 100, or slightly thicker, it gives the walls absolute evenness with a small thickness. Consequently, your steam room will be more spacious and tidy.
2. It is easier to construct buildings from timber than from logs. For example, it does not need to be trimmed and adjusted by hand.
3. Timber log houses shrink minimally.
4. Construction will be easy. Therefore, there is no need to build an expensive foundation.

1. Buildings made from such timber look aesthetically pleasing.
2. Low price when compared with stone-like materials.
3. The timber is environmentally friendly and makes it possible to create correct microclimate in any building.

Features of timber and its use

The ease of installation of the log house is ensured by the specific properties of the timber.

1. Its raw materials are logs. They are hewn on all four sides.
2. This lumber is impregnated with antiseptic compounds. They increase the service life of the log frame.
3. Manufacturers produce a special type of timber - laminated veneer lumber. This is the most expensive and high-quality type of material, ensuring rapid construction.
4. Typically, timber harvesting for timber is carried out during the cold season - from December to March.. Such raw materials are of higher quality than summer ones.

Note!
After the wood has been harvested, it should rest for about 40/45 days.
The trunks are freed from the bark, about 10 cm is left at their ends.
The material is stored in stacks.
The gaps between the trunks should be 5 cm, between their rows 10 cm, the height of the stacks from the ground level should be 20 cm.

How to choose a project

A standard bathhouse made of 10 by 10 timber or a slightly thicker material can be equipped according to a standard design.

1. Typically, they involve the construction of three main rooms: a washing room and a steam room.
2. The structure, at your choice, can be built on one or two floors, or the latter can be replaced with an attic. In addition/, the building can be supplemented with a balcony, veranda, terrace.
3. To facilitate wooden building, the instructions advise constructing the lower floor entirely from timber, and making the attic or second tier frame.

Construction of a log house

First, the construction of walls is carried out.

Types of base

When constructing a light bathhouse from 100 by 100 mm timber, two types of bases are optimal.

1. Columnar bases. Brick, stone, concrete, wooden supports placed along the perimeter of the steam room, its corners and at intersection points. The step between the pillars should be about 1.5 m.
   To increase strength, the supports need to be reinforced and protected with waterproofing between the base of the foundation and the first cobblestone crown. In this case, you can use liquid bitumen mastic or roofing felt.
2. Laying a strip base consists of digging a trench, constructing formwork of the required width and filling it with concrete. Optimally, the height of the ground part of such a foundation is 30/50 cm. Such a foundation also requires reinforcement and waterproofing of the walls.

Wall assembly

1. The first crown (row) of beams is the basis of the entire log house. The durability and quality of the entire building depends on the literacy and accuracy of its installation.
2. Having laid the first row, you can begin the actual construction of wooden walls. First, the beams are adjusted to their length. Then grooves are cut out on their opposite sides to connect the elements at the corners of the frame.

Note!
It is undesirable to use metal nails and screws when fastening beams.
It is best to replace them with wooden dowels (wedges). They are driven into pre-made holes.

1. The connection goes like this. The upper beam is drilled completely, the lower beam is drilled halfway. Next, the upper beam is removed and dowels are driven into the holes until they stop. , then the beam is installed back.
2. It is advisable to use natural materials as a heat insulator - moss, flax, jute. They need to caulk the walls from the inside and outside.

Preparing the log house for the shrinkage period

The inevitable shrinkage of walls is influenced by such factors.

1. Type of timber used and its dimensions. Profiled analogs shrink by 2.5/6 cm. Glued material shrinks by 2 cm or less.
2. Total area of ​​the building. A two-story steam room or one with an attic will settle more than a one-story building.
3. Type of lumber and its moisture level. The larger it is, the more significant the shrinkage.
4. Steam room location. Everything matters here: whether it is built in the shade, in the sun, on a flat area or with uneven terrain.

Taking into account all these points, a bathhouse made of 100x100 timber should be built with your own hands, including them in the project.

For example: keeping shrinkage in mind, you need to rafter system fix only in some places. So, it will shrink in proportion to the corresponding process in the load-bearing walls.

Here's how to prepare a log house for shrinkage: The top of the crowns are covered with boards having a thickness of 4 centimeters. Slate is mounted on top. When about six months have passed, you can begin facing work.

Conclusion

Thin timber has many advantages when building a steam room. However, we must not forget that it must be protected from external and internal influences. If you watch the video provided to you in this article, you will learn a lot of useful information on the topic we have discussed.

Construction of buildings according to timber technologies, today is finding more and more adherents. Such methods have gained particular popularity among lovers of bath rituals who want to have their own place for a family holiday or in the company of close friendscreated without outside help. Therefore, if you decide to build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you must understand all stages of the creation process, and ending with methods of caring for the structure in use. As a rule, the most questions arise about what type of woodworking product to give preference to, as well as about the nuances of its application.

There are different types of timber: choose the material

What is the attraction? lumber materials? The answer to this question is quite simple, you just need to consider, firstly, general properties products, and secondly, their individual characteristics.

First, it is a unique combination of a number of common advantages, including:

• quick and easy installation of wall structures due to the correct geometry of the workpieces;
• aesthetic indicators, thanks to which finishing is simplified or completely eliminated;
• good thermophysical characteristics that minimize insulation costs;
• small specific gravity, reducing the cost of preparing the foundation.

These characteristics together provide significant savings in the entire cost of building a bathhouse from timber. Moreover, working with quality material, following the installation technology, you will get a real corner of family relaxation and complete recovery.

Before we finally decide how we will build, it is necessary to understand the design features of walls made from one or another subtype of lumber - unprofiled, profiled or laminated veneer lumber.

Non-profiled timber

In fact, it is logs that have been cut (edges removed). It retains all the advantages and disadvantages of raw wood, except for the modified geometric parameters. Distinctive features construction of a bathhouse from non-profiled beams:

• minimal costs at the stage of procurement of wall material;
• high environmental performance of the finished structure, preserving its unique aroma natural wood, especially evident in steam rooms;
• availability of products, which are often available from trading organizations or are manufactured to your order in a matter of days;
• The apparent simplicity of the work of laying crown elements can be complicated by the selection and rejection of lumber that has significant deviations in geometric parameters, as well as foci of biological damage;
• significant shrinkage of the bathhouse in the first year (about 6 cm), delaying finishing activities;
• severe cracking, warping of beams, opening of inter-crown joints - lead to additional expenses for finishing.

Profiled timber

Due to its improved characteristics, it is today more popular than simple products. square section. Distinctive features of building a bathhouse from profiled timber chamber drying:

• the price is slightly higher than wood natural humidity, however, is fully compensated by the minimization of subsequent finishing or its absence, since the walls have a smooth planed surface;
• calibrated crown elements significantly simplify DIY assembly, tongue-and-groove connections ensure high structural strength, as well as compliance with its design parameters;
• high-quality connections of the crowns, excluding blowing or penetration of precipitation;
• accuracy, assembly density, low humidity of the material - contribute to uniform shrinkage of the bath (2-3 cm);
• possible appearance large quantity cracks;
• finishing begins after 6-10 months.

Glued laminated timber

For the construction of the bathhouse, it is produced using the most advanced technologies in woodworking. The beams are glued together from separate blanks (lamellas), carefully selected and dried (up to 10-12% moisture content) wood. Cutting the raw material removes internal stresses in the material, and the specified spatial orientation of the fibers and the use of special adhesive compositions make it possible to create composite products that significantly exceed mechanical properties analogues from whole wood. Features of installation based on such products are as follows:

• almost perfect profiled geometric shapes elements minimize time for self-construction baths made of laminated veneer lumber, as well as its subsequent finishing;
• slight shrinkage of the walls (1-2 cm), mostly caused by compression of the inter-crown seal. There is no warping or cracking. Finishing is possible immediately after the assembly of wall and roof structures;
• composite wood material is most resistant to biodestruction due to careful culling and drying of raw materials, and the use of adhesives with fungicidal characteristics;
• usage different varieties glue, to a greater or lesser extent, worsens the environmental performance of the workpieces, so it is necessary to be careful when choosing their manufacturer and to require certificates of compliance with Russian sanitary standards;
• building a bathhouse from high-quality laminated timber will cost 2-3 times more than from solid wood.

Preparing the foundation support

Moreover, in an effort to create enough reliable support to build a bathhouse from timber, it is important to exclude the slightest possibility of ground moisture getting into wooden structures building or its prompt removal. To this end:

• the box is raised above the ground on poles or piles, thereby forming a ventilated space underneath it;
• strip bases are made with a base about 50 cm high, along the cut of which at least two strips of roofing material coated with bitumen are laid;
• to tape or slab foundations under all walls, even before laying the first crown, a backing board (50-80 mm thick) is placed, richly impregnated with antiseptic, waste or hot bitumen. The lining not only protects the wood of the walls, but also helps level out horizontal deviations in the foundation level.

The main stage is installation of the log frame

The result of this stage of building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands will largely depend on the degree of your skill and accuracy in your work. What you end up with will either make you happy or sad for all the years to come.

Laying the first (flashing) crown

Whatever type of wood materials you have to work with, installing a tier of strapping is one of the most critical installation operations, which largely determines the success of the entire event. The position of the rim at the base of the wall affects the verticality of the finished box. The uniform shrinkage of the building, the correct operation of doors, windows, and the preservation of the finish partially depend on this.

The most difficult thing is to select both the bed for tying and the timber for the subsequent crowns of the bath if edging material with natural humidity is used. It is completely subject to reassembly to identify curvature and biological damage. Accordingly, part of the products will be discarded, which should be taken into account at the stage of its purchase, purchasing blanks with a certain quantity reserve.

Non-profiled elements of the casing crown may have a larger cross-section than all subsequent ones. For example, if the base of a bathhouse is made of 200x200 mm timber, then the outer walls may well be made from 150x150 mm blanks, and the partitions from 150x100 mm. For profiled or laminated lumber, the beams are assumed to have dimensions equal to the beams of the crowns located above.

Despite the fact that the components of the first tier are made from tree species rot-resistant: larch or oak, before laying they are impregnated with biocidal compounds. Sealing jute tapes are laid between the backing board and the starting crown. A similar layer should also be between the board and the foundation. Sometimes polyurethane foam is used for such purposes, but it is worth remembering that it must be protected from exposure to the sun. Ultraviolet light can destroy it in one season.

The frame beam of the first crown of the bathhouse can be secured to the foundation by tightening for extra strength anchor bolts. However, this is often not necessary, since the mass of the structure is sufficient to eliminate the possibility of its displacement. On the contrary, the absence of rigid fixation to the foundation makes it easier to replace a rotten flashing or backing board in the future.

Set of walls

The method of building a bathhouse from any timber with your own hands has an advantage over custom-made options in that you have the opportunity, in a sense, to be creative - to choose not only the types of basic or auxiliary materials, but also methods of working with them. Naturally, variability should be within reason, without compromising the theoretical and practical foundations of log house installation. For example, the crowns of timber, as well as log structures, are assembled using two main technologies: “in a bowl” or “in a paw”.

Cutting “into the bowl” is carried out with the release of wood from the outer surfaces of the walls, which explains all the advantages and disadvantages of this method. The consumption of workpieces increases, but the thermal insulation of corner joints improves, which is important for maintaining temperature regime in steam rooms. Cutting “in the paw” allows you to use wood without residue (without protruding outward), but the corners require additional heat and moisture protection, which are provided by their additional cladding.

Do-it-yourself construction of a bathhouse from timber can be done using the technology you like. However, for profiled or glued material would be better suited cutting “into the bowl”, and for edged logs - cutting “into the paw”, since they are rarely left without exterior finishing. In its turn, self-installation ordinary timber square cross-section on tenons (dowels) is easiest to perform with alternating joining of end sections, and not on corner samples of one shape or another.

Installation of square beams

The first two or three levels, including the frame, are best assembled from rot-resistant wood. Then you can use coniferous wood: spruce, pine, cedar. On the starting tier, as on all others, the horizontal placement of the crowns must be controlled.

1. A beam of the upper tier is installed on the casing crown with or without displacement, guided by the requirements of the method of alternating joining of sections. The accuracy of the location of the part is ensured by using a template, for example from a piece of timber. If the design of the bathhouse frame provides for corner locks with recesses, then they must be made on the ground according to the appropriate template. Check the fit (if required) and remove the beam.
2. Insulation is spread along the upper plane of the lower crown, shooting it with a construction stapler. The strips are taken with a margin of width; they should protrude 10 mm from the outer and outer sides walls. After shrinking a bathhouse made of non-profiled timber, excess sealant will be needed to caulk the joints.
3. The upper beam is placed in place.
4. In the same way, the entire crown is collected, then the next one.
5. Every three rows are fastened with dowels. They are selected based on the requirements of GOST 30974-2002. Suitable cylindrical blanks Ø 25-30 mm made of birch, as well as oak, ash, larch or pine. Holes are drilled under them (strictly vertically!) into which they must fit by hand or with slight interference. The channel is selected to a depth of no less than the middle of the first beam.
6. Then the dowels are driven in, recessing them 3-5 cm into the material of the upper crown, using a cylindrical extension.
7. To prevent the walls of the bathhouse from being blown from the timber, the beams are additionally upset. What is any used for? suitable tool, for example, a special large mallet or sledgehammer with a lining for impact with a wooden shoe.

The installation of dowels should be carried out with an offset of 30-40 cm, every three rows, with a fastening step of 100-200 cm. That is, the 3rd upper beam will be the 1st for the next three.

Installation of profiled and laminated timber

If you are building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, then using solid material natural humidity, of course, reduces your initial investment, however, leaving such a structure without decorative finishing clapboard or block house turns out to be not very aesthetically pleasing. On the contrary, the use of profiled chamber-drying material or glued beams will help, if desired, to completely eliminate outer skin walls Technologies for constructing a bathhouse from such modern types woodworking products are almost identical to each other. The differences are dictated only by different shrinkage standards of buildings, and therefore, the time after which it is possible to begin finishing them differs. As already written above, a log house made of glued material can be finished almost immediately, and one made from profiled dry solid wood can be finished in six months.

For quick assembly For baths made of timber with your own hands, you can order at the factory a complete cutting of all elements with a selection of corner locks, corresponding to the construction project. As a result, by the time installation begins, you will receive at the construction site something like a construction set that does not require adjustment of parts. And after just a month of work, without involving third-party teams, you will have a structure ready for finishing.

The process of installing crowns using the tongue/groove system allows you to obtain especially sealed joints that do not require caulking. Wherein interventional seal laid without external outlet. Otherwise, profiled beams are mounted in the same way as square beams.

What else do you need to know to build a bathhouse from timber?

1. The arrangement of the ceilings during the construction of a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is carried out from lightweight structures based on lumber, no different from other types of buildings. The same applies to the roof, for which it is important to decide whether the space under it will be used () or an unused attic.
2. Openings for installing windows can be cut immediately, taking into account shrinkage gaps above their casing (for material with natural humidity 6-8 cm) or after shrinkage is completed (at least 2 cm). The correct casing must have a free-sliding element (tenon, embedded block) so as not to be crushed by shrinkage deformations of the supporting structure.
3. A bathhouse made from non-profiled timber should not only be assembled by carefully sorting the building materials, but all conditions should be created for uniform natural drying. Under no circumstances should additional heating be used, for example using air heaters. WITH sunny side Vapor-permeable non-woven material should be stapled onto the walls. Such measures will reduce torsion and cracking of the crown elements.
4. Purchase solid timber from winter harvest batches, as it contains a minimum of moisture, and the frame made from it completes shrinkage faster.

Whatever technology you choose to build a bathhouse from timber, it will always include. Preference should be given to formulations, taking into account their operation in a humid environment at elevated temperatures, which is as safe as possible for humans. The use of impregnations from leaders in this industry, for example from Finnish companies, allows not only to maintain a healthy environment in the bathhouse premises, but also to achieve beautiful shades natural wood without smudges or other coating defects.

Those who intend to build a sauna or bathhouse from timber on their own, and even from scratch, need to solve many problems step by step. Select a project and material, study videos and tips on building a log house with my own hands. Detailed instructions are also in this article.

Timber for a bath: how to choose

When deciding what to build a bathhouse from, it is no coincidence that many owners give preference to timber. The following characteristics speak in its favor:

• ability to retain heat well;
• aesthetics;
• minimal shrinkage;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

Just like in a log bathhouse, a timber bathhouse smells of wood and resins - like in an old Russian steam room. This has a beneficial effect on the health of those who take bath procedures. At the same time, it is cheaper and faster to build such a structure than its analogue from logs: the log house can be installed directly on the foundation, and finishing can be carried out without waiting for long shrinkage.

Perhaps the most significant disadvantages of timber are only two: a tendency to rot and a high fire hazard.

Advice. The timber can be glued and profiled. The first one is more expensive, but at the same time it is durable and does not deform. Profiled timber is, in fact, a log that has been given a certain shape. The presence of tongues and grooves makes it easier to connect. But shrinkage of such log houses can take quite a long time.

The choice of material is a more than responsible task. It is believed that wood that is cut down between December and March is most suitable for construction. According to all the rules, it is stored on a substrate and dried for about a month under natural ventilation. When buying timber or getting it from your own stocks, pay attention to the following nuances:

1. The presence of cracks is a serious defect. Even small cracks will expand over time, causing the wood to rot.
2. Small holes are a sign that bugs have settled in the timber.
3. Blue spots indicate that the material has begun to rot. Naturally, it is not suitable for construction.

Design and pouring of the foundation

What a bathhouse should be like depends only on the preferences of its owner. Projects for buildings with a terrace are convenient if, after a steam room, you like to have a barbecue in the fresh air. In a bathhouse with an attic you can equip extra room rest and accommodate guests there. And here glass veranda- this is a great place for summer kitchen or a billiard room.

If you are planning to build a two-story building, make a durable one strip foundation. Otherwise, you can get by with a simpler columnar one. The tape is laid to a depth of at least 0.5 m.

Technology:

1. Having dug a ditch, pour sand or gravel onto its bottom (layer thickness - 15 cm).
2. Make wooden formwork.
3. Equip the inside with a frame made of reinforcement.
4. Fill with concrete.

For a columnar foundation:

1. Dig holes up to 40 cm deep along the perimeter, as well as in the corners of the future bathhouse. The distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
2. Make a 15 cm sand cushion in each of the ditches.
3. Install brick posts in the holes. Their height is about 0.5 m.
4. When laying the foundation, reinforce the pillars for greater strength.

Attention! In any case, do not forget about waterproofing. To do this, apply softened bitumen to the surface of the foundation and cover it with a layer of roofing felt. When everything hardens, repeat the same thing again.

Walling. Connecting timber in corners: methods

For the first row (crown) of a bathhouse, experienced craftsmen recommend taking a beam with a cross-section of 20 x 20. For all other crowns, material with parameters 15 x 15 is suitable. The main thing is that the length of all copies is the same. The construction of walls consists of the following stages:

• Lay slats on the foundation at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. This is additional insulation for the timber. The slats should have a thickness of no more than 0.15 cm and be treated with an antiseptic.
• The location of the first row of beams. They should first be treated with a special antiseptic solution or ordinary machine oil. Before connecting, make sure that the surface is strictly horizontal. Use a level for this.
  3. Fastening the beams of the first row and filling the space between the slats with foam.

Advice. For the first crown (row of the log house), take larch or oak timber. These breeds tolerate moisture well.

• Laying an insulating layer, for example, made of tow or moss, on top of the first crown. This is true for all subsequent rows of beams.
• Location and fastening of the second crown. Wooden dowels or metal pins should be used for connections. Holes must be drilled for them in advance. If you take nails, it’s better to use those that can be “drowned” into the wood, because the heads on the surface rust and cause the timber to rot.
• Laying the remaining rows. There is no need to fit them closely. It is better not to connect the last two crowns, because you will have to remove them during installation of the roof.

The bars can be connected to each other longitudinally, as well as at the corners. The first option is used when the specimens are too short in order to lay them out the entire length of the wall (for example, a 4-meter beam is used for a 6 x 6 bathhouse). In other cases, you can resort to corner connection. It happens with a residue, when protruding parts of the beam remain in the corners, and without it.

The first method is considered more reliable and much more attractive from a design point of view. It has 3 mounting options:

• 1-sided;
• 2-sided;
• 4-sided.

The number indicates the number of grooves that are cut in the timber. The optimal connection is obtained as a result of 4-way coupling, although this work is the most labor-intensive. Fastening without residue, which is done end-to-end, on dowels or on spikes, is considered less reliable for a bathhouse, so it is better not to use it.

How to make windows and doors in a bathhouse. Roof construction

When laying the beams, you can make a small gap in the rows - where windows and doors are planned. After the log house is ready and time has passed for shrinkage, you should cut out the openings using a chainsaw. But there is another option: to make windows and doors at once, during the construction process. To do this, you will need special grooves and specimens of beams with an end notch. The second method requires more time, and as a result of shrinkage, finished windows and doors may become deformed.

The roof on the bathhouse can be pitched - quickly and inexpensively. It is mounted from cross beams, which are assembled at an angle. In this case, precipitation will not linger on the roof. Gable roof- a good option if you need to arrange an attic or recreation room underneath it. It is more convenient to install rafters and sheathing coverings on the ground, and then install finished design to the log house It can be covered with metal tiles, roofing felt or ondulin.

Advice. Different roofing materials are optimal for different pitch angles. For example, 5° is suitable for roofing felt, and 30° for ondulin. Take this feature into account when choosing a coating.

Do-it-yourself sauna made of timber: video

Construction of a bathhouse from timber: photo

Bath for modern man- it is almost an integral part of life. It has a wonderful healing and relaxing effect. It is quite difficult to build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, but it is possible. The main thing is to choose the right material, draw up a diagram and plan the work.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of timber as a material for a bath

Advantages	Flaws
The log house is erected quickly and easily	Long drying is required (at least a year)
Does not require additional professional labor	During shrinkage, slight deformations may appear, which, at the same time, can be easily eliminated
The timber is equipped with a tongue-and-groove system, which allows you to firmly connect all structural elements	Timber is still wood, and it is not resistant to fire.
The seal protects the building from moisture ingress during slanting rain	The material is susceptible to fungus, bacteria, insect pests (termites)
Does not require the construction of a solid foundation
When using high-quality logs, additional finishing is not needed
Characterized by an affordable price

Timber is the most suitable material for a bathhouse

How to calculate the size of a bath

It should be of such a size that all visitors feel comfortable.

Modern baths are divided into 2 types:

1. Dry, in which the temperature varies from 60 to 120 degrees Celsius. Humidity ranges from 5 to 25%. The name of this design is Finnish sauna.
2. Raw ones, in which the temperature is lower (50–70 degrees Celsius), but the humidity is higher (from 80 to 100%). This building is called a Russian bathhouse.

The last type is a wooden building, which has a warm dressing room, a washing room and a steam room with a stove and shelves.

The Finnish sauna consists of a steam room where water is dripped onto the stones. essential oil or herbal infusion. The healing vapors of these substances have a beneficial effect on humans.

The Finnish sauna is characterized by low humidity

And even though the function of these two types of baths is the same, appearance and sizes may vary significantly.

On personal plots Most often it is the Russian bathhouse that is built. This building has three rooms:

• locker room and rest room at the same time;
• washing;
• steam room

It is also worth providing a dressing room and a place to store firewood.

Small sauna for one person

This option is suitable for people who prefer to spend time alone in the steam room, as well as for small families. It can be made not as a separate structure, but as an extension to residential building. In this case, a waiting room is not needed. All bathhouse premises should be as small as possible without losing ease of use. However, the width of the changing room must be at least 1 m at total area more than 1.3 m2, otherwise, when you undress, you will hit the walls with your elbows and knees.

Before building a bathhouse, you must draw up a project

The washing room is only needed for washing. Therefore, its area can be about 1 m2.

The size of the steam room depends on the position in which the owner prefers to spend time here. For sitting shelves, you can allocate a room with an area of ​​1 m2. However, remember that since the distance from the owner to the stove will be minimal, there is a risk of getting burned from the steam. This can be avoided by positioning the stove in such a way that the steam is directed in the opposite direction from the vacationer.

Sauna for a family of 2–4 people

It is best to do it separately. In this case, the presence of a waiting room is mandatory. Thanks to him the winds and frosts interior spaces they won't be scary. In addition, this is a great place for drying brooms and storing firewood.

The size of the locker room should be such that each family member has at least 1 m2 of space. The sink area should be a little larger, especially if you have children. Find a place for a wide bench (180x60 cm).

In a bathhouse for several people there must be a waiting room

The height of the ceiling and the size of the shelves in the steam room are determined depending on the height of the tallest family member. His head should not rest against the ceiling when sitting on the highest shelf, but lying on the benches should be as comfortable as possible. The following parameters are considered sufficient for a bench:

• length 180–200 cm;
• width 60–65 cm.

The floor in the steam room is made 15–20 cm higher than the washing room floor. This will save heat in the room.

It is better to place the shelves in it in two rows along all the walls. The lower shelves are suitable for those who prefer to sit. A 40cm width will be sufficient. And the upper shelves are for bed-ridden procedures.

It is very important to choose the optimal dimensions for the steam room. A small one will not fit enough people, and a large one is difficult to heat.

Remember that it will be difficult to heat a bath that is too large

The lounge room should have enough space for guests. The size depends on how many people you are going to invite. It can be combined with a dressing room and equipped with wardrobes.

Such a bath is heated using electric oven. Otherwise, it is very similar to its Russian counterpart. Unless the sauna air dries wet wooden elements faster and prevents them from deteriorating from moisture.

The smallest sauna looks like an insulated closet, in which two people can hardly sit down, jostling with their knees.

The internal appearance of a Finnish sauna is very different from the Russian one we are used to

Table: which log house to choose for a bathhouse

Both timber and logs are suitable for the construction of such a structure. There are also switchboard structures.

Wood is an environmentally friendly natural raw material. Its low thermal conductivity will allow you to build a bathhouse that can be easily heated and retain this heat for a long time.

		timber		Panel baths
+	-	+	-	+	-
Corresponds to the tradition of the Russian bath	Difficult to process and install	Easy to install and use	Needs preliminary testing	Easy to use and handle	Requires installation of additional thermal insulation
Retains heat well	Requires availability good foundation due to heavy weight	Retains heat well, with additional thermal insulation need not	Shrink strongly	Does not require a powerful base due to its light weight	Needs exterior finishing
Does not require additional insulation	Needs pre-drying	If the structure is good soil, it does not require construction strong foundation	Subject to torsion	Inexpensive	Characterized by a short service life
Does not require preliminary impregnation	Shrinks a lot	Accessible	May crack		May be artificial
Allows you to create the correct microclimate in the bathhouse for all procedures	Expensive	Durable
Durable
Eco-friendly

High-quality timber will not only make the surface of the walls beautiful and correct, but also reduce construction time.

How to make a drawing

The construction of any structure involves the creation of a detailed project plan, since it helps to calculate the materials. The bathhouse is no exception. The main thing to consider when creating it is how many people will visit it. The dimensions of the building directly depend on this. It is also important to decide whether your bathhouse will be freestanding or combined with another building. It is recommended to make a bathroom in it. To do this, you need to think about the sewer system in advance.

The project should depict:

• dressing room;
• steam room;
• shower;
• bake;
• lockers for clothes;
• shelves and beds.

It is possible to indicate the location of the table.

Photo gallery: bathhouse projects

The bathhouse can be located on the ground floor of the guest house Don't make the bathhouse too big Bath for big companies Must have a rest room It is not necessary to make a special room for firewood, just allocate some space near the stove If you have the financial opportunity, you can build a whole bathhouse complex

Step-by-step technology for building a simple bathhouse with your own hands

The job will be much easier if you plan everything carefully in advance.

How to build a foundation for a timber bath

For the construction of a bathhouse, it will be enough to pour a strip foundation. To do this you need:

The base should rise above the ground by no less than 0.5 m. Thus, the wooden lower crowns of the building will be protected from moisture.

It is also possible to use a pile foundation. For this:

It doesn’t matter which foundation you choose to build your bathhouse, additional reinforcement is still necessary.

The foundation takes about four weeks to harden.

After the foundation has completely hardened, it needs to be covered with waterproofing material. To do this, you can apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and roofing felt on top of it. This operation must be done twice, each time waiting until the bitumen has completely hardened.

How to correctly place the first crown

The instructions for this type of work are as follows:

Now many have stopped attaching the lower crown to the base. The structure already stands perfectly on the foundation, supported by its own weight. This has its advantages. Indeed, if rot appears on lower crown, it will be easier to replace.

The distance between the crown and the foundation must be filled with foam.

How to build walls correctly

After laying the first crown, you can proceed to the walls:

1. The first crown is covered with heat-insulating material, for example, jute, moss or tow. The last two options must be laid with an overlap on the edges with an overlap of 100 mm.
2. Then the second crown is laid and fixed with wooden dowels, holes for which must be drilled in advance. Don't forget to seal between each layer and check with a level.

Do not attach the top two layers at once. The building will shrink. The ceiling beams can only be fixed after this, which is why these crowns will need to be raised.

Where to start installing windows and doors

There are two methods for creating openings for installing windows and doors:

Installation of caulking

Before proceeding to this stage, it is necessary to give the walls time (at least six months) to shrink. However, if moss or tow were used as a sealant when laying the crowns, caulk is not needed. But still, carefully check the entire structure for visible cracks. If any are found, then it is necessary to twist the sealing material into a bundle, and special device press it into the slot.

Roof installation stage

As soon as complete shrinkage of the wood has occurred, you can begin to construct the roof. If you do this earlier, the roof will suffer severe deformation.

All work takes place in several steps:

Video: building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands

How to decorate the walls of a bathhouse outside and inside

This process must be taken as seriously as possible. Beauty, convenience and safety depend on this stage.

How to choose material

The best choice for finishing works will become natural wood.

Coniferous trees can release resin when interacting with high temperatures, so these types are not recommended for cladding a steam room.

For a steam room, it is best to use lining made of linden or larch. Linden retains its original appearance for a long time, does not darken or crack. And larch is not afraid of fungus, mold and rot. Pine is perfect for finishing a dressing room.

Step-by-step instructions for interior decoration

The work consists of several stages:

Video: interior decoration of the bathhouse and insulation of the ceiling

How to treat the floor

The most common floor finishing materials are boards and tiles. If the choice fell on tiles, then they should not be slippery.

Wooden bridges will help prevent slipping on tiled floors.

And, naturally, the floor requires insulation. If it is made of concrete, then as thermal insulation material You can put, for example, expanded clay or crushed stone between layers of mortar.

Remember that the floor in the steam room must be raised. This will help keep the room warm.

Table: materials for finishing a steam room made of laminated veneer lumber

Material	Advantages	Flaws	How to attach
Salt crystals or blocks for gallotherapy	They have a healing effect on the entire body, especially on the respiratory system and skin.	Not suitable for rooms with high humidity, so this option only applies to saunas	Visually, this material looks like bricks that are lined up near one or more walls and fixed together with two-component quick-drying glue. It dries in ten minutes.
Wild stone or decorative brick	Makes the interior unique and increases fire safety. Improvement is possible from the use of soapstone or jadeite	When exposed to high temperatures they heat up	On wooden wall construction waterproofing paper is attached with an overlap of 40–80 mm. Then the painting mesh is mounted using galvanized staples. It needs to be plastered and then covered with stones.
Tile	Decorates the interior. Characterized by fire safety and durability.	Requires special skills when installing	Laying occurs on a surface that has been plastered. The tiles are fixed using highly specialized adhesives. Placed from floor to ceiling.
Cork moisture resistant coating	Capable of insulating.	Has considerable thickness	They are glued to the surface with special glue.

Photo gallery: steam room finishing options

Salt brick has many healing properties Salt sauna helps to cope with problems respiratory system The stone in the interior of the steam room looks very harmonious Not the entire steam room can be finished with tiles, but only part of it Cork covering has the property of insulation Cork insulation has a significant thickness

Features of the exterior finishing of a bathhouse made of timber and foam block

When building a bathhouse from half-beams, foam blocks and lumber, the construction requires careful external finishing.

Finishing a summer bathhouse with siding

It is best to clad brick buildings with siding. For wooden structures this option is not very suitable, since it disrupts natural ventilation, as a result of which the tree does not breathe.

Despite its variety and beauty, siding cannot be called the best choice

Using lining

An ideal option for both interior and exterior decoration.

If insulation is provided from the outside, then a sheathing is needed, which will serve as a frame for laying steam and heat insulating material. Then another sheathing is installed, onto which the finishing material is mounted directly.

The humidity of such material should not exceed 15%.

The exterior decoration of the bathhouse with clapboard looks very aesthetically pleasing

If the insulation was carried out inside the structure, then the lining can be attached directly to the walls.

Block house finishing

Ideal for finishing a bathhouse made of profiled timber. It is fastened in the same order as when using lining. Either on the sheathing or directly on the wall. Thermal insulation is not needed in this case.

The wall, lined with a block house, looks very neat

Imitation of timber

It's the same lining, just thicker and more expensive. It is used to decorate walls inside and outside. In all its properties it is the same as lining.

It’s impossible to say right away that finishing material can look so natural.

It must be secured to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. The advantages are a neat and beautiful appearance, durability. Also, the wood underneath will not be destroyed.

Exists great amount varieties of facade tiles

Other finishing options

The facade of the bathhouse does not need to be further finished. If used quality timber, then it is enough to varnish or paint the walls. To do this, first saturate the wood with an antiseptic to prevent mold, mildew and rot from appearing. If necessary, repair cracks in the beams. Apply a layer of primer to the treated and dry surface. Wait for it to dry and repeat the process in areas that were not treated very well. Wait until it dries completely again. Then you can paint, if necessary - in 2 layers.

Interior improvement

At the end of construction, the bathhouse must be landscaped.

Steam room

It should contain the following elements:

1. Foil.
2. Mineral wool.
3. Vapor barrier membrane.
4. Wooden ceiling plinth.
5. Floor plinth.
6. Ventilation valve.
7. The ceiling is made of wooden lining.
8. Lamp.
9. Wooden floor.
10. Sun lounger.
11. Thermometer and hygrometer.
12. The back of the lounger.
13. Chimney.
14. Container for water.
15. Kamenka.
16. Sauna stove.
17. Furnace temperature protection.
18. Non-combustible base under the stove.
19. Door to the steam room.
20. Bath accessories.
21. LED backlight.

Some elements in the steam room are required

Some rules:

1. The entrance to the steam room must be made from the washing room or dressing room.
2. Tempered glass or wood are the materials for doors. There should not be any metal on them, except for hinges.
3. The shelves should be of such a size that it is comfortable to lie and sit on them. There should be room on the floor for the person who will whip you with a broom.
4. None coniferous species Can't be in a steam room. They secrete resin.
5. The steam room should have a thermometer and hygrometer. Their presence will allow you to control temperature and humidity.
6. Bright lighting is not suitable for a steam room. Here it should be warm and soft.
7. It is better to place the stove near the door.
8. It is necessary to take care of insulating the walls and floor around the stove.

In large baths there should be more than one shower. In addition, provide hooks and shelves where you can put toiletries. A bench and a mirror are also integral parts of this room.

Build a central sewer in this room where the water will go.

There must be a shower in the bathhouse

Rest room and wardrobe

Here you can place lockers for clothes, a table and chairs, put upholstered furniture. The presence of sockets to charge your phone, turn on music or an electric kettle will also be useful. You can also build a kitchen area here, if there is enough space.

Cozy lounge option

Construction of a bathhouse is a very troublesome undertaking that requires a lot of effort, time and finances. But it's worth it, isn't it?