Finish the house from timber. Exterior finishing of a timber house

Wondering what to decorate the walls with timber house, the owners, despite the limited budget, dream of seeing their own building presentable and expensive. This can be brought to life using accessible methods, using inexpensive finishing raw materials for these purposes. Which one is described below.

Review of inexpensive material for interior decoration of a log house

Raw materials will be examined in detail from the point of view not of cost, but of the complexity of the installation process. After all, it will not be easy for home-grown builders who have not made a career in the field of repairs to navigate multifaceted actions. So:

• Drywall. A popular coating for any kind of decor - the raw materials alone are not at all presentable. It not only levels the walls, but also insulation and communications can be laid under it.

After installing it and grouting the joints, the interior decoration of the walls of the house made of timber will lie on a perfectly flat surface so that the process will not be difficult even for non-professionals - there will be no need to adjust the decor due to curvature.

Drywall is available in several options - from simple to fire-resistant. For a wooden structure, a predominantly moisture-resistant option is purchased. The price is completely reasonable and large areas sheets will allow you to complete the finishing in a matter of days.

Wallpaper is glued onto the drywall, plaster is applied, and it is painted. It can be a base for laying stone, ceramic tiles and other things.

• Wall plastic panels. An indispensable coating in aggressive rooms such as a bath or kitchen - moisture does not come into contact with them and does not affect the structure. As for the decorative part, such panels successfully imitate stone, wood, and brick.

A variety of fantasy patterns will help you create pictures that are not related to natural patterns. Installation is not difficult - all panels are equipped locking connections tongue and groove, the length allows you to cover standard walls of 2.5 m from floor to ceiling. Wires or thin water pipes can also be laid under the covering.

It is unpretentious to wet cleaning. The cost makes it possible to decorate large areas with such material. The disadvantage will be the lack of environmental friendliness. In addition, in the event of a fire, they are capable of releasing caustic gases that are harmful to humans.

• Plaster. Some styles wooden house assume the presence of simple plastered walls - wooden hut, chalet, modern. Therefore, such wall decoration in a timber house does not lose popularity, although it is labor-intensive to execute.

This is associated, first of all, with the difficulty of accepting wood with a wet cement composition. Therefore, before the base layer is exposed, several stages are completed - leveling the walls using moisture-resistant plasterboard and laying reinforcing mesh. The plaster itself is applied in several stages - base, leveling, decorative layer, which is made smooth or textured with the help of tools.

During the process, you need to use a level and beacons - this will make the coating perfect. The disadvantage of plastering in a wooden house is the fact that when it shrinks, it cracks, and the walls will have to be constantly renewed.

• Plywood and veneer. Despite the natural origin of the components of these materials, they do not have ecology. This fact is associated with the large amount of glue used for mating sheets or pasting the walls themselves.

However, the decor made from such raw materials is of a high standard - it does not have to be constantly painted or varnished - it is enough to carry out the procedure once every few years. Decorating the walls of a house made of timber using such raw materials will visually create the effect of an expensive mansion where valuable types of wood were used.

• Paint and varnish products. You can decorate the inside of your own home without using any coatings. These are well-known varnishes and coating products based on water emulsion.

Some of them may even contain protective components - they will have a beneficial effect on the wood. Such raw materials are suitable for interior finishing when owners do not want to lose the natural beauty of wood. So:

1. Glazing compounds. They do not hide the natural pattern and penetrate deeply into the structure. Give rooms a matte or glossy effect.
2. Lucky. Drying, they form polymer film, making the wood shine in the light. However, the disadvantage of this treatment is that it does not allow natural raw materials to breathe and cracks when shrinking.
3. Coating compositions. They reliably protect the timber; they can contain pigments or be without them, giving it gloss. Colored paints are popular with owners whose home is made of simple sanded or planed raw materials.

When using paint and varnish products for a house made of timber, finishing the walls from the inside will generally not be difficult for the owners - you just need to purchase the appropriate tool, a material labeled as eco-friendly and study the algorithm for applying layers.

You can make your home bright and presentable without expensive coatings. You just need to apply your own imagination to existing products of the construction industry, so the premises will become individual without investing significant capital.

Having finished building a house from timber, it is too early to relax. The final stage is finishing work inside the premises to give the house cozy atmosphere. You can see the options for interior decoration of a house made of timber in the photos provided.

Interior finishing works

Work on finishing the inside of a timber house includes several stages, which include:

• carrying out communications (electricity, pipelines for water, heating and sewerage);
• treating wood with impregnating antiseptics and fire resistance compounds;
• heat and waterproofing of the house;
• preparatory work for finishing walls, ceilings and floors;
• installation of interior doors;
• final work on walls, ceilings and floors.

Without work experience and sufficient knowledge of repairs, it is advisable to hire workers to get the job done well, but you will have to spend more money on it than planned. This is especially true for communications.

An example of interior decoration of a wooden house

Before you begin decorating the interior of the room, you need to create a thoughtful design down to the smallest detail. This will help you clearly see what you need to strive for and calculate the required amount of materials and their cost.

Features of interior finishing work in timber houses

Interior decoration home is to use the same materials that are used in other homes. But wooden houses have two important features, which must be taken into account before starting finishing work:

• The primary shrinkage of houses made of timber is significantly higher than that of others. It may take two to six years after construction is completed before it ends;
• secondary shrinkage. It is not particularly noticeable (less than 1% of the floor height).

Primary shrinkage is affected by the drying of the timber and a slight decrease in its volume. The gaps between the beams decrease, which is influenced by the constant load. As a result, after shrinkage is completed, the floor height decreases by 2-3 cm. Significant deformation can negatively affect finishing work (the appearance of cracks of different sizes in the plaster, tiles falling off in places).

Sectional laminated veneer lumber

Glued laminated timber will help resolve the issue over time. In this case, the shrinkage of the house will stop a year after completion of construction.

Secondary shrinkage is affected by fluctuations in temperature and humidity of wood. It should not have a negative impact on facing coatings.

Materials for finishing the interior of a timber house

There are several options for interior finishing of a house made of glued or profiled timber for the first time after construction.

Floor installation

Before laying the floor covering, it is necessary to raise the subfloor with the insulation and waterproofing layer embedded in it and covered with boards. This floor design is quite simple, retains heat well and protects from noise.

Materials for clean flooring serve:

• Planed tongue and groove board. She is pure ecological material, which breathes and has excellent resistance to moisture. The board is strong, durable and easy to maintain. Has many processing and tinting options. Renews well by scraping or regular sanding. This type of flooring is not suitable for underfloor heating, because most of heat will be spent on warming up the sheet pile itself.

• Parquet board or laminate. The material is suitable for underfloor heating systems. When choosing a coating that has good thermal conductivity, you need to pay attention to the one that is marked with the appropriate marking.

In a wooden house it is better to make a wooden floor

Wall decoration

Before finishing the walls in a house made of timber, you need to treat them with an antiseptic.

Treated wood. Wood itself can be a wonderful finishing material. In the case when the surface interior walls does not have any shortcomings, then they can be left as is, without finishing anything. It is only necessary to saturate the wood with a special composition to obtain the desired shade.

Painting the walls will not only preserve the natural wood structure, but will also provide additional protection for the wood. It is necessary to choose paint coatings for interior walls that contain the lowest amount of harmful substances.

Plaster. It is necessary to decorate the walls with it only after a year has passed after the construction of the house. It is important here to pay special attention to the waterproofing of wood surfaces.

Block house or clapboard. When the external appearance of the walls does not look particularly attractive, but you want to preserve the special pattern that the wooden surface has, such materials are used. This finishing is applicable only after the house has settled. For installation, a frame is created that will slightly reduce the area of ​​the room.

Wall panels. They are made from wood without adding glue. The material is environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic. They have good thermal insulation characteristics, easy installation and excellent sound absorption. Panels on top cover vinyl wallpaper or linen fabric.

Drywall. For this type of finishing, after applying putty, wallpaper is glued, painted and tiles are laid. For rooms where high humidity, it is necessary to choose drywall that is resistant to moisture. Its leaves have a greenish tint.

The material is environmentally friendly and lightweight. Its installation is carried out by fastening it to a metal or wooden frame. This design prevents contact between timber and drywall, which preserves load-bearing walls and casing from the formation of cracks. Behind it you can conduct electrical wiring, plumbing and other communications, which will be conveniently hidden. If necessary, it is convenient to lay down an insulating layer.

You can leave the wooden walls just wooden

Ceiling finishing

Often, when decorating a log house, the beams on the ceiling are not closed inside, but serve as an element of the interior. An unlined ceiling will harmoniously fit into different styles (Provence, country). Until 5-6 years have passed for the house to finish shrinking, a wonderful material is plasterboard or suspended ceiling. It will perfectly cover the ceiling hole without interfering with the shrinkage of the house.

During the shrinkage of the house, a redistribution of forces occurs in the beams on the ceiling. Only after its completion will it be possible to finish the ceiling in the usual ways, such as plaster.

It is necessary to take a responsible approach to the interior decoration of the premises, which consists of a number of activities. Do not forget about the significant shrinkage of the house and the sensitivity of wood to moisture.

Video with an example of finishing the interior of a timber house

It is important to start finishing work correctly, otherwise all violations and deviations from technology will be revealed later. Correcting such errors is often more expensive than doing the whole job over again. We recommend that you watch the video; perhaps you need a similar finishing option.

Filimonov Evgeniy

Reading time: 8 minutes

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How the interior decoration of a house made of timber is carried out, the sequence of work, the types of materials used, how the necessary materials are installed, tips and recommendations.

Externally, a house made of timber looks graceful, but do not forget about the interior so that visiting the house does not overshadow it appearance, the interior decoration of a house made of timber must be done on top level, for this purpose, every nuance associated with internal works indoors.

Front described necessary work inside the timber, what is the peculiarity of the interior decoration, how to choose the right one necessary materials, what is special about the arrangement of the floor, how to carry out reliable finishing of the walls, how to carry out competent finishing of the ceiling. What methods exist for interior decoration of a house, why is painting inside the house so popular, what sheet materials The interior walls are being lined, what are the rules for decorating the interior of a house made of timber.

The correct sequence of work for interior decoration of a house made of timber, what types of interior decoration exist, what is the decorative treatment of timber, where to properly hide communications. What are the advantages of using lining, how to properly finish the interior with plasterboard, how to use plaster and plastic panels.

How to competently design the interior of a house, features of use decorative stone as a finishing material. What is the specificity wooden buildings, what compositions are used, how you can imitate wood and finishing features with a complete change in surface.

How the internal processing of the walls of a log house occurs, the sequence of work and how the interior decoration of the house is carried out after shrinkage.

The interior decoration of a house made of timber is a continuation construction work for the assembly of structures, which must be completed by this stage. This is a very responsible process, because it is the mission of giving the living space comfort and coziness in accordance with the given design. In our article you will find useful information on this topic and learn where to start with the upcoming repairs.

Finishing the floor, walls and ceiling in a log house made of laminated or profiled timber is done by hand in several stages:

1. laying communication highways ( electrical cable, pipeline, heating system, sewerage, air conditioning);
2. wood impregnation antiseptics for protection against fire, insects, mold and fungi;
3. installation of heat and waterproofing material;
4. preparing walls, floors and ceilings for application finishing;
5. installation of interior doors;
6. finishing of floors, walls and ceilings.

Without certain skills and the necessary knowledge for renovating premises, it is better to seek help from professionals, especially when it comes to communications. If you are confident in your abilities and do not want to overpay, you can safely do the work yourself. It is advisable to decide on the design and think through every detail of the interior before starting. This measure will help you have an idea of ​​the future result and calculate required amount material intended for these purposes.

Features of interior decoration

The finishing of a timber house is carried out with the same materials as in houses made of brick or any other building material, but despite this, there are a number of features that need to be taken into account in the process of finishing walls and other objects:

• the inevitability of primary shrinkage of houses made of profiled timber, which is more significant than in other buildings. In this case, it may take a minimum of two and a maximum of six years of waiting before finishing can begin;
• secondary shrinkage, not exceeding 1% of the floor height, is therefore practically not noticeable.

In the first case, the culprit is the shrinkage of the timber and a decrease in its volume, during which the gaps between the logs narrow due to the constant load. When the shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber is completed, you may notice a decrease in floor height by 2–3 cm (in houses made of laminated timber, this figure can be 1–2 cm, check with the manufacturer).

Such deformation negatively affects the finish, as a result of which the plaster becomes covered with cracks and the tiles fall off the walls. To avoid a long wait, it is better to build the frame of a wooden house from laminated veneer lumber, and then the shrinkage will last no more than 12 months. Secondary shrinkage is provoked by temperature changes and wood humidity, but it does not affect decorative facing materials.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask a question to an expert

Choice stylistic direction and decor depends on the personal preferences of the home owners or on the design development of specialists who approve the project with the home owners, we will introduce you to step by step process finishing and the most popular materials used for these purposes

Selection of materials for interior finishing of a log house

The choice of stylistic direction and decor depends on the personal preferences of the home owners or on the design development of specialists who approve the project with the home owners. We will introduce you to the step-by-step finishing process and the most popular materials used for these purposes.

Floor installation

Before laying the flooring, you need to raise the level of the subfloor with a heat and waterproofing layer, which is covered with boards.

This simple and uncomplicated design perfectly retains heat and absorbs outside noise.

The most commonly chosen floor finishes are:

1. Planed sheet piling lumber. This is an environmentally friendly board that is not afraid of moisture, and its structure allows the floor to “breathe”. It is durable, long-lasting and easy to maintain. There is a wide selection of colors and textures on sale. Over time, the tongue and groove board can be puttied and sanded, which allows you to update the appearance of the floor covering. This material is not suitable for those who plan to install underfloor heating, since here all the heat will be spent on heating the tongue and groove.
2. Laminate or parquet board. In this case, there are no obstacles to installing a “warm floor”. When choosing a coating with high thermal conductivity, look for the corresponding marking on its packaging. Experts advise laying a wood floor from the inside of a wooden house.

After installation finishing material skirting boards are installed that will hide the technological opening with insulation between the wall and the floor. Before nailing the baseboard, the exposed insulation must be cut off, if any. To prevent the appearance of a sound bridge, the baseboard must be fixed either to the floor or to the wall. Otherwise, you may encounter extraneous noise, especially if the “floating floor” technology was not used.

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Self finishing timber house outside and inside

Wooden houses have always been, are, and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. Log house it is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how to finish a timber house from the inside and outside, and this material is designed for those who are going to decorate the house with their own hands.

Why finish a timber house at all and when can you start work?

Most ordinary people, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house might need exterior and interior decoration. After all, wood itself is a beautiful, self-sufficient material and all that can be done with it is just varnish or paint.

They are partly right, but only if we are talking about the so-called laminated veneer lumber. The construction material really very beautiful and comfortable. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried wood impregnated with protective compounds.

In addition, they have grooves (profiles) cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house like a construction set, by the way step-by-step instruction included with such sets. As a result, the owners receive a good-quality house without large cracks or distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, is “biting” and therefore many people, instead of laminated veneer lumber, use ordinary, and not always well-dried, lumber. A ordinary timber, I’ll tell you honestly, it only looks good on an advertising stand in a store; as soon as you turn it into the desired environmentally friendly housing, its appearance is unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from laminated veneer lumber, despite their attractive appearance, often need finishing. In order for the house to be warm, you need to either buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And here the warm finishing of the façade of a log house comes to the rescue.

We've sorted out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made “construction set” made of laminated veneer lumber, then this indicator is minimal. In this case, the overall shrinkage will continue for about 3 years, and finishing can begin in six months, maximum a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not begin before a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be generously “flavored” various kinds protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with simple flat timber, which at the time of construction has natural humidity. Such buildings take at least 5 to 7 years to settle. As for the start of finishing work, many craftsmen advise starting it after a year, although I always recommend letting such a house sit for at least a year and a half, or better yet, 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your home from, immediately after construction the box must be covered with a roof and be sure to be treated with protective impregnations, so that while shrinkage occurs the wood does not begin to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing of a timber house

By by and large To decorate a log house, all the same materials are used that are used for cladding a brick, block or any other structure. But they need to be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How to decorate a timber house
Types of cladding	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house are completed, otherwise any movements of the base can cause cracks and even peeling. Plaster is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such finishing ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an external cladding option; I personally have not seen it installed from the inside.
Facade facing brick	Everything here is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such cladding will last for at least 50 years. As a rule, between wooden and brick wall insulation is installed. The only limitation may be the foundation; such cladding requires a wide, permanent structure.
Natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases, stone finishing of wooden buildings on the outside is limited only to the base. Plus, natural stone has a solid mass and requires the construction of an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining is a universal material; it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are installed quite simply. In our case, finishing with false timber is best suited; in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining; in some sources it may be called a block house; for a timber house this is the best option.
Varnishing or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, so varnishing or painting is more often used as interior decoration, although in the case of wooden clapboard Such processing can also be carried out externally.
Tile	In this case, tiles are more relevant for interior cladding of services in the house. From the outside, it can only be used to decorate the basement and porch.
Drywall	Drywall is convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate the outside of a log house. Since our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away; without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All we have left is varnishing and ventilated façade technology. In this case, ventilated facade technology should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It’s not for nothing that I combined all this; the fact is that the instructions in all these cases are similar.

Before you begin finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, this sealant was created specifically for these purposes and no other sealant will fit here.

Ventilated facade technology

In my deep conviction, for beginning craftsmen, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable options for finishing a wooden house.

This type of façade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finishing cladding and the base, and insulation can fit into this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, there is no need to clean, sand and level them; it is enough to simply caulk and seal the cracks between them. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I believe that this is unnecessary. And here protective treatment in this case it is mandatory, and there is no need to save on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy a composition for biological protection of wood (antiseptic) and a composition for fire protection (fire retardant), take a paint roller or a wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing an old house, then you can impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations from comprehensive protection, now the price for them is reasonable, homemade liquids are folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of homemade products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnation has dried, it is attached to the wooden wall. vapor barrier membrane. In general, it is pressed against the sheathing strips, but for me it’s easier to shoot it with a stapler first, so you can do without helpers. And don’t forget, steam moves from the room to the street; if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (such a fabric always has marks indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next you will need to lay the sheathing on the wall. If on block houses most often the sheathing is made from metal UD and CD profiles, then for wooden walls It is better to use wooden blocks, they are much easier to work with. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the sheathing should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are smooth, it is better to be safe. The first 2 outer bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them and the remaining bars of the sheathing are placed along these cords.
  If the next plank protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a plane, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the planks, it is considered that the thicker and stronger the finishing, the wider the step can be taken, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, under any material, I install the lathing in steps of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are attached to a vertical sheathing, but under the lining the sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is the diagonal laying of the lining; it is attached to a vertical sheathing. Although I don’t advise you to undertake diagonal installation, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• Mineral wool is usually used as insulation for wooden structures. The fact is that wood must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like will cake within 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Now is the time high quality for basalt cotton slabs;
• The thickness of cotton insulation for the middle zone of our great and mighty homeland varies around 100 mm. Naturally, the further north the region is, the thicker the insulation needs to be;

When cutting cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm larger than the distance between the sheathing guides. This way your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps, between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of humidity, so we attach the so-called wind protection on top, in fact it is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to attach it first with a stapler;
• The counter-lattice strips provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing cladding is attached. For lining, I usually use 30x40 mm bars, there is no point in taking smaller ones, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice, it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Nowadays, any type of lining is installed using clamps, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with screws with wide heads. The panels have special fastening holes, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Rules for wood varnishing

The technique of applying varnish and painting is practically no different. Initially, you will need to thoroughly sand the surface. If the laminated veneer lumber is already well processed, then you will have to tinker with the regular one.

You start processing with coarse sandpaper and gradually work your way up to fine-grained sandpaper. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do this manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include changing the color, then the surface is treated with stain. Next, let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you sand the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

To remove lint, use fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to sand particularly hard; the lint is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp rag.

From experience I can say that one finishing layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes you have to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After sanding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to adhere well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

Regarding the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend acrylic varnishes on a water-dispersed basis, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, they are of course of high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and withstands all the vagaries of the weather. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for exterior use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Decorating the house from the inside

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate the inside of a timber house; it all depends on what exactly you are going to cover. Plus, the type of room plays a big role; you must admit, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Cladding the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or a floor attic space. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself in a wooden house can be based on floor joists or installed directly on monolithic iron concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden joists are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be insulated. There is a small nuance here.

If it is better to insulate the walls of a wooden house mineral wool slabs, then foam plastic is more suitable for floors and interfloor ceilings. You can, of course, buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I think that in this particular case it will be more suitable regular foam PSB-S25, the effect is the same, but this foam costs at least 2 times less. I usually buy foam boards 50 mm thick.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs have been treated with protective impregnations, you need to build a subfloor in their lower part. There are several methods here, I will tell you about the method that I use myself.

First, on the sides of the bottom cut, the logs are packed cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, they will become the base for the rough flooring. Next, planed boards with a thickness of about 20–30 mm are laid on these bars in even rows.

There will be a constant pull of moisture from the ground, so both the skull beam and the planks of the rough flooring must be well impregnated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this; they used to impregnate railway sleepers with it. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but it is perfect for a subfloor. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The subfloor slats are cut exactly to size and laid on the skull beam; they, of course, can be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now a continuous layer of technical polyethylene is laid over the entire room, with a sheet of technical polyethylene wrapped around the log and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus even if there are cracks left somewhere, there will be no air blowing through them.

Polystyrene foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so there is no point in installing any kind of hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large cracks left somewhere, don’t worry, they can be blown out with foam.

For a wooden house, the best and simplest option, in my opinion, is to install a floorboard. For this, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more are used. In order not to spoil the appearance of nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed using clamps or hammering nails into the lower part of the groove of the board.

To install parquet, laminate and other newfangled coverings, you will need to make a durable monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the FK brand with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm in 2 layers, and the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen install OSB flooring, but I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say anything about it. The only thing I definitely don’t recommend doing is using chipboard sheets to lay out the base on the floor; at the slightest humidity they will swell and begin to peel off.

If a wooden house is built on a concrete slab, then there is less work. You need to cover the concrete with plastic sheeting overlapping the walls. After this, install logs with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and lay foam plastic between them, and sew a finished floor on top using any of the technologies described above.

As for the ceiling, the easiest way is to hem the lining from below to the joists. On the side of the second floor or attic, cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the joists and arrange the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in the interfloor ceiling it is necessary to lay some kind of sound insulator; the cheapest option is to take polystyrene foam, but no one is stopping you from using, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it is fashionable to leave the load-bearing beams on the ceiling open. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a skull beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Next, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coating of the second floor.

There are, of course, more multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard and suspended ceiling. But installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires some experience and stretch ceiling This is a rather expensive thing and, without having the knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with false timber is a priority method, because the house, after all, is made of timber and in this case we are simply correcting visual defects in the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only large sizes. In theory, if the walls are smooth, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it is better to put sheathing on the walls and install false beams on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on how much clearance you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a 30x40 mm block is sufficient. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or even larger. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but you have to put up with it, otherwise there is no other way.

And don't forget that the electrical wiring is in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be inserted into a metal hose. Now corrugated plastic tubes are sold for these purposes; they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and cost less than metal hoses, but mice can easily chew through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is installed only in exceptional cases and is extremely rare. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to their freezing.

The second most popular method of interior finishing of a log house is plasterboard. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet rooms you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to install drywall not on traditional metal carcass, but on a wooden sheathing. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already installed in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the sheathing; for plasterboard, the pitch of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean; it needs to be puttied.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly widened with a knife; the groove should be approximately half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not adhere well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now get divorced finishing putty and finish the sheet with it. You start by filling the joints and caulking the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a 1-2 mm layer of putty over the entire plane of the sheet.

If you plan to cover the plasterboard with tiles, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive serpyanka, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh onto it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. To paint, putty walls will have to be sanded to perfection. That is, start with coarse sandpaper and end with fine sandpaper.

Often, fragmentary finishing with natural or artificial stone is used inside a log house or in the basement area. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of the base moving, so the base needs to be strengthened well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and secure it with self-tapping screws, onto which I additionally put wide washers.

Most often, tile adhesive is used to install stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously reinforced wooden base layered cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and the stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive; it costs more, but the reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such cladding is carried out from the bottom up, with a support strip attached at the bottom.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

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Houses made of timber are very popular look structures. The timber is easy to install due to its rectangular profile; such buildings are quickly erected, which is why this building material occupies a leading position in the wooden house-building segment. In temperate and northern latitudes, timber is usually insulated and covered.

Features of timber buildings

Houses made of profiled timber do not differ in construction technology from log houses. The material itself is very attractive. Construction from natural wood with a beautiful fiber pattern, it looks organically against the background of the natural landscape. For low-rise private construction, sawn, glued and profiled timber is used, which determines the installation technology. Structures made from timber are environmentally friendly; this material is breathable.

The cross-section of the material ranges from 10 to 20 centimeters. The cross-sectional size is the thickness of the walls. For cold climates this is clearly not enough, so the walls outside and inside have to be insulated so that the final thickness of the walls is at least 40 centimeters for a temperate climate. There is a need to cladding facades with insulation, which is done with various materials that match the style of construction. Disadvantages include the ability of wood to absorb moisture, the tendency to form corrosion from excessive moisture, and high flammability. Exterior decoration designed to reduce the influence of negative atmospheric factors, insulate and increase the safety of the home.

Suitable finishing time

The finishing of the facades begins after the final shrinkage of the frame. Porous wood fibers absorb and release moisture, this deforms and slightly changes the size of the wall, even if the wood was well dried before construction. Timber structures undergo shrinkage from several months to two years. The construction season also affects the shrinkage time: construction in winter will require 7–8 months, in summer – at least 12 months. The most intense deformation process is observed in the first three months.

There are some differences in these terms for different materials. Exterior decoration of a house made of laminated veneer lumber can begin within three months after construction, since this material was dried using special technologies in production and is not affected by atmospheric moisture and does not deform. Due to the gluing of the timber, the wood fibers do not twist along their length. Rounded and sawn timber do not have these qualities, since the densest wood of the outer layer of the log is cut off during processing. This reduces moisture resistance and makes the timber vulnerable to rot and fungus. Experts recommend choosing the time of late autumn - early winter for construction due to the low cost of construction, then in the summer it will be possible to begin installing windows, doors, exterior and interior decoration without fear of cracking the cladding.

Types of materials

A finished timber frame can be clad on the outside with various types of finishing: stone, bricks, plastic or metal siding, flexible ceramics. You can use false timber. Each option has both advantages and disadvantages. The most expensive and durable finishing material is natural decorative stone; its installation requires special professional skills. Stone tiles are glued to the facade using the same technology as tiles in a bathroom or sauna using moisture-resistant components adhesive composition. A natural stone- This heavy material Therefore, installation may require special mounting hardware to provide strength. More often, only the base of the building and some parts of the wall or a porch with columns are finished with stone.

It is better to use artificial decorative stone. In terms of aesthetic qualities, it is in no way inferior to the real thing, and in terms of operational properties even surpasses it. Front surface artificial stone imitates any natural mineral, more resistant to adverse mechanical influences. Its price is slightly lower, but it is also an expensive finish. The compensation will be a long service life and a solid appearance of the house, the ability to choose any shade of stone.

A common technique is to cover the timber with brickwork. It significantly increases the cost of construction, but the house will receive the necessary thermal insulation. The service life of the building will increase significantly, and the flammability rate will decrease. Such houses maintain comfortable indoor conditions even in northern regions. Cladding the entire structure, even half a brick, will require strengthening the foundation and professional bricklaying skills.

A popular lightweight option is decorative facade clinker tiles, which looks aesthetically pleasing in combination with wood. It has variations in thickness, appearance and size. During the manufacturing process, firing takes place, and the corner elements are made using the extrusion method, this extends the service life of the finish to several decades. Clinker tiles have irregularities on back side, due to which there is good adhesion to the wall surface. The front side imitates not only different kinds minerals, but also bricks with a different range of shades.

Trimmed and not edged board, false beams, wooden slats, block houses are the most common finishing materials in private wooden housing construction. Good thermal insulation properties, the aesthetics of rural style and the beauty of natural wood attract the attention of consumers. The block house allows you to imitate structures made from solid logs. A wooden strip and edged board neatly hide the insulation and do not disturb the naturalistic natural style and are affordable and easy to install. Often wood trim complemented by carvings, which greatly decorate buildings in the Russian style.

Separately, you should pay attention to unedged boards. This material costs pennies. But well trimmed unedged board the facade turns the house into a work of art. The board or slab is cleared of bark, the facades are sanded and sewn up. Rough finishing gives the building a rustic feel and becomes an aesthetic accent. Firing the wood adds decorativeness while simultaneously increasing the durability and strength of the material.

In front of everyone positive qualities Natural wood is not moisture resistant enough and is susceptible to fungus. The replacement was plastic and metal siding. Metal siding is more suitable for industrial buildings, but can also be used in civil engineering. Modern technologies made it possible to give good technical characteristics to these materials: durability, moisture resistance, pigment resistance, variety of designs, lightness self-installation, affordable price category. A neat and aesthetic appearance of the house is guaranteed for ten years or more.

Flexible ceramics has become a new, technologically advanced material. The basis is clay with polymers. Flexible ceramics are characterized by durability, do not fade in the sun, are very convenient to use, moisture-resistant and durable. This roll material and cladding is similar to wallpapering. They can be used to paste over structures with round shapes– columns, arches, vaults, domes. Due to the presence of clay in the composition, it has breathable properties, but still for most finishes it is wooden frame You need ventilated facade insulation.

A plastered facade is a simple and decent finish for external walls. The work is simple, but labor-intensive, and not difficult to master. It provides good fire protection and is easy to repair. The plastered facade can be combined with any design style. It can be painted or decorated with decorative plaster.

Distinguish the following types decorative plaster:

• mineral is a durable cement mixture that is resistant to the formation of fungus and mold;
• silicate is made from liquid potassium glass. It is considered a breathable and durable material;
• acrylic is made from synthetic resins, has high coefficient frost resistance. The presence of resin in the plaster gives it plasticity; in case of possible deformations of the facade, the surface is resistant to the formation of cracks.

Surface preparation

Preparing for external cladding The facade begins with the impregnation of the timber with special anti-corrosion and fire retardant compounds. Without an insulation device, a film or a special membrane is laid overlapping the surface. Next, they are attached to the wall with a construction stapler, and the joints are taped. A plaster mesh is attached to the film. Next, it is plastered and stone or facing tiles are laid.

For other types of finishing, start insulating the external walls. After fixing the film, the sheathing is stuffed onto the frame. It is carried out metal profile, but you can make it from wooden slats. The profile or batten is filled in increments of 50 cm. Mineral wool or foam plastic is placed in the cells so that 2–3 centimeters of empty space remains to the edge of the sheathing for ventilation of the facade. The insulation is covered with a windproof membrane on top and closed plaster mesh for subsequent plastering and stone gluing or painting.

To cover the facade, the second row of sheathing is filled. This row will become the basis for cladding made of siding, wooden boards or slats, and flexible ceramics. In this case, the facing material is attached with self-tapping screws to the top sheathing. The sheathing must be done in such a way that it is convenient to attach the finishing elements.

Installation of cladding

You can decorate with stone or tiles in two ways: with jointing (more decorative look) and end-to-end (a monolithic coating is obtained). Some types of decorative tiles can only be laid using one of these methods; it is worth asking in advance when purchasing, since the installation of a seam requires special skills and equipment. If the stone is of different sizes, then first lay out some part on the floor, trying to achieve the maximum decorative effect alternating details different sizes. Laying begins from openings and corners from bottom to top.

New technologies have made this process easier. Thermal panels have appeared on sale - these are finished slab insulation with a layer of decorative stone already glued. The type, color and texture of the decor can be chosen to suit your taste; thermal panels are glued directly to the facade. It is important that the wall surface is smooth. This material is not suitable for wooden walls. the best choice, since there is no ventilation of the wood. Modular views sheathing, siding, lath, lining are attached using self-tapping screws to the sheathing or special locks from the bottom up. The first row is installed at a height of 10–15 cm from the ground for air circulation under the panels, if a base is not provided.

Decorative plaster applied to the rough layer. It can be smooth or have a textured texture. The relief helps to hide the unevenness of the facade. The optimal layer thickness for the facade is 1 cm. When choosing plaster for finishing the facade of a wooden house, you need to be prepared for the inevitable appearance of cracks, since wood has plasticity and is always slightly deformed.