Do-it-yourself repair of a 500-watt Cress hammer drill. Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair

For work it is important to use quality tool: This is more pleasant to work with, and malfunctions occur much less frequently. But still, when breakdowns occur, it is useful to know how you can fix them yourself.

A hammer drill is a tool that is always useful on the farm. It is used for drilling and drilling holes, indispensable for owners of housing made of reinforced concrete structures, since a drill in such conditions may be useless.

Hammer design

In order to repair a hammer drill yourself if it breaks, you need to know its structure. And although there are several types of rotary hammers, different models may differ in their functionality or power, but they are similar in design and principle of operation.

The hammer drill consists of:

• Electric motor.
• Reduction gear. Responsible for increasing the torque of the working axis and reducing the rotation speed.
• Impact mechanism. The presence of this part distinguishes a hammer drill from a drill.
• Patrona. Acts as a fastening for attachments.

You need to choose the type and brand of hammer drill based on where and how often the tool will be used. In any case, it is better that it is of high quality, then breakdowns can be avoided. However, it is important to know the signs by which you can determine that an electrical appliance will soon fail or has already failed. These signs are the following:

Disassembly and repair of the cartridge

One of the frequent breakdowns that owners of rotary hammers encounter is this is a cartridge failure. In order to disassemble it, you will need the following equipment: a screwdriver, a hammer, pliers and an open-end wrench.

First you need to find the rubber coupling at the end and remove it and the retaining ring. After this, access will open to the working coupling, which needs to be moved and another retaining ring removed. You can use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the rings. The next step is to remove the spring and retaining balls. Now you need to remove the cartridge; to do this, you can use a vice and hold the cartridge in it, take an open-end wrench and rotate the spindle by the flats.

If a cartridge falls off while working with a hammer drill, this may mean that the cartridge body at the mounting location has become unusable. To eliminate this problem, simply replace the retaining ring with a new one.

There are times when during use the drill flies out of the chuck. Then you need to disassemble the cartridge and determine what could have caused it. The following parts should be paid attention to: balls, restrictor ring and retaining spring. If any of them is damaged, then you need to replace it, then the problem will be solved.

If, when disassembling the cartridge, it becomes clear that the inner cylinder has become unusable, then the cartridge must be replaced completely, since it cannot be restored. In this case, you can remove from the old one all the parts that have not yet worn out; they may be useful in the future if any of these components wear out in the new cartridge.

After repair, it is important not to apply heavy loads during the first time in order to check the functionality of the tool.

If the hammer drill malfunction is not related to the chuck, and with its mechanical or electrical part, then you will need to completely disassemble the tool to determine the cause of the breakdown.

For disassembly, you can read the instructions or technical documentation to a specific model, but you should know that standard mechanical part is located behind the cartridge, and the electric one follows the mechanical one. First, you will need to use a screwdriver or screwdriver and unscrew the screws that hold the plastic case in place. The number of screws depends on the model. The wires that are available are carefully disconnected. When disassembling, it is important to remember or write down the sequence of connecting the parts so that there are no problems with assembly in the future. Be sure to read the instructions to know where the parts are located and their correct names.

Repair of the most common faults

One of the most common malfunctions the brushes sometimes spark. This often happens due to wear and tear on the part itself, so to fix this problem they need to be replaced with new ones.

It may also be necessary to remove the operating mode switch; to do this, you need to set it in the “impact” position (so that the arrow points to the hammer image) and turn it further by about one centimeter. Next, the lever is released from the socket and pulled towards itself.

If the body of the hammer drill gets very hot during operation, then perhaps, firstly, the operating mode was not followed, and secondly, the reason may lie in a malfunction of the electric motor.

Disassembling the electric motor

If it has been determined that the breakdown is related to the electric motor, you should start disassembling it. To do this, you need to follow the instructions to determine where the electric motor is located and disconnect its housing from the gearbox. You will need to unscrew the screws holding them together. Remove the motor rotor from the guide bushing, after which a full inspection of the electric motor parts will be possible.

Armed with a multimeter, you can check the windings of the copper conductor, and if an interturn short circuit is detected, you will have to replace the armature with a new one. It would be useful to check whether the insulation is damaged, and if such a problem is identified, then fix it.

Changing bearings and start buttons

Sometimes it occurs need to change bearings. During inspection, you will notice that if you turn it manually, it can make strange sounds such as crackling or crunching. This means the bearing needs to be replaced. To do this, you can use a special puller; it consists of a screw part and a part that is adapted to grip the bearing sleeve. After dismantling, a new bearing must be installed; for this, a hammer made of rubber or wood is usually used, with light blows to put the bearing in its place. It is important not to apply excessive force so that the bearing axis does not move relative to the shaft axis.

It may also be necessary to replace the start button; to do this, first remove the cover, which is a housing to protect the internal parts of the hammer drill. After this, the contacts of the conductors that are connected to the button are disconnected, and the button itself is pulled out of the seat. Now all that remains is to take a new button and perform all the above steps in reverse order.

As you can see, repairing a rotary hammer with your own hands is a task that anyone can handle; the main thing is to understand the structure of this useful tool for household use and follow the instructions. A to reduce the likelihood of breakdown to a minimum, you need to follow some rules:

• Before you start working with the tool, inspect it for chips or cracks in the body. If they are found, carry out repairs.
• Read the instructions and technical data sheet of the product and follow all recommendations for working with it.
• Use high-quality drill bits that are suitable for the specific type of material.
• If the amount of work that needs to be done is large, then it is necessary to take breaks to avoid overheating.
• After working with the tool, clean its surface from dirt and dust; you can also use a vacuum cleaner to blow it out.
• Observe storage conditions. The hammer drill must be located in a special place where moisture does not penetrate, as it can damage electrical parts.
• Conduct full analysis, cleaning and lubricating the tool on a regular basis once or twice a year.

By the way, the absence or lack of lubrication is quite common cause hammer drill failure. The instructions for the device should indicate which places and parts need to be lubricated and which not. It is important to know that for gearboxes liquid lubricant must be used, which must be poured into a hole specially designed for this; for other parts, a thicker lubricant can be used.

By complying with these simple rules the tool will last a long time, and the risk of malfunctions will be kept to a minimum. But if any malfunction does appear, then, following the recommendations above, you can eliminate it without difficulty.

If the warranty period for a rotary hammer has expired, you will have to repair it yourself. As a rule, actions come down to replacing faulty parts, and today we will talk about typical breakdowns, selecting components and performing repairs yourself.

How does a hammer drill work?

A hammer drill can be classified as a tool that has a device of increased complexity. However, a sequential examination of the details and principle of operation will help to thoroughly understand the nuances of the mechanism and troubleshooting.

The source of movement, as in many other construction tools, in a hammer drill is a single-phase motor with a wound rotor. We will consider it separately, but now we will take the gear mounted on the front armature shaft as the reference point. It is she who sets the rotation of all other elements of the system.

Barrel perforator device: 1 — power cord; 2 — carbon brushes; 3 - electric motor; 4 - switch; 5 - eccentric mechanism; 6 — impact mechanism; 7 - quick-change cartridge

In a barrel hammer, the motor and drive gear are located vertically. The key difference from a pistol-type tool here is the presence of an intermediate gearbox. There is nothing tricky about its design: a flat gear from the engine rotates two others with different gear ratios. One of them transmits rotation to the main shaft, the other rotates the eccentric shaft with a connecting rod, which provides reciprocating movement of the impact mechanism.

In horizontal (pistol) type hammer drills there is no transfer gear as such; rotation is immediately transmitted to an intermediate shaft located below the axis of the main spindle. This shaft is mounted on two bearings; between them there is a “drunk bearing”, which, when rotated, oscillates and sets the firing pin piston in motion. At the protruding front end of the shaft there is a gear, through which rotation is transmitted to the barrel.

Pistol type hammer drill device: 1 - switch; 2 - electric motor; 3 — brushes; 4 — “drunk bearing”; 5 — “flying” piston; 6 — striker; 7 - quick release chuck SDS

Any rotary hammer has mode switches. In the barrel, they simply lift the gears of the transfer gearbox, disengaging them. A pistol hammer drill can use one of two control schemes. In the simplest case, one switch displaces the intermediate shaft, which, being extended as far forward as possible, engages with the cartridge gear, but at the same time the rotation transmission clutch to the swing bearing is disengaged. In the middle position, both mechanisms are included in the transmission, and in the most recessed position, only the drummer works. The outdated kinematic circuit has two switches, one of which disengages the oscillating bearing clutch, and the other moves the intermediate shaft.

Engine Troubleshooting

If the rotary hammer engine has a manufacturing defect, the latter manifests itself in the very first months of operation. Otherwise, the cause of the breakdown is often a violation of operating techniques or extreme wear of the components.

The main element of the motor part, subject to intense wear, is the graphite brushes that transmit current to the rotor windings. When the brushes are worn, their pressure weakens, causing the gap between the graphite and the armature lamellas to increase and intense sparking to occur. The sound of this malfunction cannot be confused with anything: when you turn it on, you can hear a strained hum, the collector is showered with a sheaf of sparks, and the rear part of the engine heats up intensely.

The motor windings are made of wire in varnish insulation, which, due to overheating, loses its dielectric properties, cracks and crumbles. Small short circuits between adjacent turns can be identified by the characteristic hum of the engine during operation. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to rewind the stator and armature at home, but most engine parts are standard and easy to find replacements for.

Other vulnerable parts are bearings. There are two of them on the anchor: the rear one is fixed in the electrical part housing inside the vibration-damping cap, the front one is inserted into the seat of the gearbox housing or screwed to it with a slip die. Bearing wear is quite easy to determine: when rotating by hand, their movement is either too free with a characteristic rustling sound, or there is wedging, play and extraneous noise. The bearings have a closed cage and are not designed for maintenance. It is much easier to replace them with new ones; just write the number on the separator cover or the end of the outer race.

Replacing the button and brushes

During the operation of a high-quality hammer drill, the button may have to be changed more than once. It is optimal if you purchase the button in advance under specific model. If you need to remove a faulty part for a sample, sketch out a connection diagram on paper indicating color coding wires Some of the buttons have screw clamps and to unscrew them you will need a narrow slotted screwdriver. Some buttons are equipped with spring-type clamps; to release them, you need to drive an awl into the hole next to the wire entry. It is quite rare to find disposable spring clamps, the wires from which cannot be disconnected. The wires from the old button will have to be cut, stripped and tinned, and then connected to the new button in accordance with the connection diagram.

It is quite easy to change brushes in a rotary hammer; the channels for them in some models are brought out and closed with plugs for access without disassembling the tool. Otherwise, you will only have to remove the housing of the electric motor part of the tool and carefully inspect the commutator assembly. Seating The brushes are located inside or near the plastic posts that hold the rear bearing plug; two wires go to them. The mechanism for attaching and pressing the brushes varies from model to model.

In most cases, to remove the brushes, you only need to pull out two metal tabs with pliers, unscrew a couple of screws, or unfasten the springs of the clamps. During periodic inspection, it is recommended to remove the brushes and check for chips, and clean the landing grooves from dust and dirt. Be careful not to confuse the left brush with the right one, keep them in their original position when installing. As a rule, brushes are lapped at an individual angle, changing which will either require re-grinding or will lead to destruction of the graphite element.

When replacing worn brushes, it is only important to select the correct size and cross-section, and then grind the brushes by running the engine for 2-3 minutes without load in the no-impact mode. Nowadays, almost every rotary hammer is equipped with a set of replacement brushes, but replacements can also be found from the remnants of already used ones.

How to replace bearings yourself

The hammer drill contains from five to ten radial rolling bearings different sizes and the need to replace them is only a matter of time. It is very important to periodically disassemble and evaluate the degree of wear of these components, otherwise more serious malfunctions may develop in the future.

Almost every bearing in a hammer drill is quite easy to remove; the seating dimensions for them are selected with high precision. In some cases, a retaining ring may prevent removal. If it is not there and the bearing refuses to be removed, a universal two-jaw puller is used. If a puller is not available, then the part on which the bearing is seated must be clamped in the soft jaws of a vice, and then the worn element must be knocked off by striking the inner ring through the adapter.

When seating a new bearing, direct hard blows must not be applied to it. You should use an elastic attachment, such as a trim polypropylene pipe. It must first be cut obliquely so that the impact force falls exclusively on the inner race. This way, the rolling elements will not leave microscopic dents on the grooves.

Chuck malfunctions

The SDS cartridge consists of a fitting with one or two holes in which balls are seated, usually with a diameter of 6.7 mm. The balls move freely in the holes while the plastic body of the cartridge is pulled back; in the normal position they are tightly pressed by a spring through a massive steel ring.

To disassemble the cartridge, you need to pry out the front boot with a screwdriver and remove the locking ring from the fitting. The remaining parts are simply put on the fitting and can be removed without additional manipulation, it is only important to return them to their place in the correct order.

As a rule, the main cause of chuck malfunction is ground off balls or a dented plate and pressure ring. Because of this, the equipment either does not hold at all or flies out during operation. You can get such balls in any quantity by breaking bearing number 106. The mounting holes and splines inside the bushing have a much longer life, but if the replacement does not give the expected result, you will only have to change the fitting assembled with the barrel.

Please note that rapid wear of the cartridge parts occurs due to loose sealing of the anthers, both the front one and the annular one on the fitting. The drill shanks should always be kept lubricated, and when drilling the ceiling, use a special dust washer.

Repair of gearbox and impact mechanism

Now we have come to the most substantive part of our instructions. Due to differences in the structure of the transmission part and the shock pulse generator in different families of rotary hammers, their maintenance and repair are carried out according to different schemes.

Barrel perforators

The drive gear of the transfer gearbox is mounted on the engine bearing, the other two have their own stops. They need to be periodically checked for jamming and play, and replaced if necessary.

The connecting rod mechanism has its own bearing, which is usually mounted on the cam of the eccentric wheel, sometimes at the base of the connecting rod itself. Occasionally, a sliding bearing is used in this place, which requires the constant presence of lubricant with a standardized viscosity index. Wear of this unit often requires replacement of the eccentric barrel and connecting rod.

The transmission of rotation is carried out by a straight or bevel gear; the constant presence of lubricant is also important in this place. The need for replacement is determined by blackening, liquefaction and the presence of shiny inclusions.

Pistol hammer drills

In rotary hammers with a horizontal rotor, problems can arise from wear or jamming of the bearings. This is the most dangerous malfunction for all hammer drill components: fragments of a broken bearing can get into the parts of the impact mechanism and damage them.

The landing of the intermediate shaft and the “drunk bearing” is often made according to an individual scheme. For complete disassembly you need to unscrew the clamping bracket of the front end of the shaft and disconnect the switch lever.

A typical failure of a horizontal gearbox is wear of the transmission gears. In the absence of a press, removing them will not be an easy task; it is much easier to break them by making a couple of cuts to 2/3 of the thickness. The new gear is pressed in after preheating to 150-200 ºС; this can be done with a hair dryer or in the oven.

Gearboxes of all types should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated periodically. After disassembly, all parts are thoroughly washed in kerosene, getting rid of fragments of broken elements and metal shavings. After this, a special type of lubricant is applied to all moving parts.

Raster coupling

The barrel of almost all types of hammer drills has the same structure. The outer sleeve of the coupling rests on a needle bearing in the front of the gearbox housing. On outside The main gear of the rotation transmission is secured to the glass together with the safety clutch. To remove them, you need to remove the retaining ring by first compressing the spring with adjustable pliers.

Disassembling the insides of the raster coupling is also easy. They are fixed with a locking ring, which is removed through a pair of side holes with a regular screwdriver. Once the ring is removed, the parts inside can be pressed out by inserting a screwdriver into the front of the barrel.

Inside there is a “flying” impact bolt and an industrial mass - a shock force receiver. Most bolts are assembled; rubber gaskets and seal rings often wear out. It is recommended to change these elements at every service. The bolt itself and the industrial mass can be split due to fatigue during long-term use. These elements cost mere pennies and if there is the slightest trace of flaring, it is also better to replace them immediately.

It is difficult to give more specific recommendations for repairing the raster coupling and gear part: each manufacturer’s kinematic diagrams may have slight differences. However, most of the faults are clearly visible during inspection and revision. In this regard, it is recommended to save the assembly diagram from the instructions for the tool; it should also be used when searching for components, which are determined by the serial number of the list of parts used.

A home craftsman who is able to use a hammer drill can easily cope with its repair. We will talk about restoring the functionality of the hammer drill.

Disassembled hammer drill

Rotary hammers have firmly taken their place in the arsenal of working tools for home craftsmen. Like any other power tool, it can fail. It is not at all necessary to immediately run to the workshop; you can repair the hammer drill yourself. Especially its mechanical part.

Let's look at the principle of operation and design of the hammer drill

Tools may vary in power, functionality, but the operating principle and design concept are the same. Of course, we are talking about electromechanical versions. pneumatic hammer drills are the domain of specialized service centers.

So, we have in our hands a standard household or professional electric hammer drill. Main elements of the device:

Sectional view of the hammer drill mechanism

• Electric motor. It can be located along the chuck spindle, or perpendicular - the difference is not fundamental.
• Reduction gear. Provides a reduction in rotation speed and at the same time increases the torque of the working axis.
• Impact mechanism. This is exactly the device that distinguishes a rotary hammer from a conventional electric drill.
• Cartridge. Receives the load of the working nozzle and transmits torque and impact moment to work area. Serves as a holder for attachments. The most common standard is SDS.

The fundamental difference in design concerns only the impact mechanism. In the majority modern devices, an electro-pneumatic method of transmitting impact energy is used. The piston makes reciprocating movements and, with the help of an air cushion, transfers energy to the ram, which in turn strikes the firing pin, which has a mechanical connection with the cartridge.

The advantage of the design is the high impact energy and the absence of a mechanical connection between the ram and the piston.

Compressed air acts as a damper, reducing tool vibration.

This method of operation allows you to automatically turn off the impact mechanism when idling. Perforation occurs only when the tip presses on the working area. When you apply force in the direction of drilling, the bypass valve closes, the cylinder becomes sealed and the compressed air drives the ram mechanism. This saves the resource of the main components of the hammer drill.

The transmission of vibrations in an electro-pneumatic impact mechanism is realized in two ways:

How the tool works

1. Crank mechanism. A crank is located on the gearbox shaft, which imparts reciprocating motion to the piston. This design ensures the transfer of high-power impact energy and is used in medium and heavy hammer drills. Flaw - big sizes. The main advantage is high reliability and reduced vibrations on the body.
2. Oscillating bearing. Reciprocating movements are transmitted by the outer race of the bearing of a special shape. This design is compact and is used in rotary hammers light type. The main disadvantage is the rapid wear of the swing bearing.

A hammer drill is a necessary thing, it simplifies the work and is even sometimes irreplaceable for the master. But, like all mechanisms, it can break. If a rotary hammer breaks down, there are two options for the development of events: throw away the broken one and buy a new one, or try to repair it. The first option may be suitable provided that the hammer drill is cheap and it’s easier to buy a new one. But if the hammer drill is branded, then buying a replacement may not be affordable. There is always time to throw it away, but it’s worth trying to fix the hammer drill yourself. By by and large, you don't risk anything. And no special skills are required for repairs. But you still need to know some nuances.

Before repairing something, you need to try to protect the mechanism from damage. Or at least not aggravate the breakdown of the mechanism. To do this, pay attention to the following points and immediately stop the hammer drill:

• the smell of burning;
• the appearance of unnatural additional sounds;
• unstable operation or decreased performance of the hammer drill.

If at least one of the above points occurs, you should stop working immediately- your hammer drill requires repair. But before you start troubleshooting the rotary hammer yourself, you need to understand its internal structure.

Perforator device

To repair any mechanism, you need to understand its internal structure. So, hammer drills can be of two types:

1. With the engine installed horizontally.
2. With vertical motor.

In all other respects, all parts of the hammer drill are basically similar.

The hammer drill consists of two parts: electrical and mechanical.

Electrical part of the hammer drill

In some models, the switch is combined with a control device.

Mechanical part of the hammer drill

1. Gearbox. Mounted on the motor shaft.
2. Clutch.
3. Impact-forward mechanism.

​Auxiliary mechanisms

Some models may be equipped with additional parts:

• mode switch;
• vacuum cleaner;
• depth limit;
• other.

Trouble-shooting

Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair has some advantages. Firstly, repairs in a workshop are expensive, secondly, it can take considerable time and, thirdly, the breakdown may not be difficult, so fixing it will not be difficult and soon you can continue working.

Before starting repairs, the unit must be disassembled. Each model has its own disassembly nuances. But in most cases, any model consists of two parts: front and rear halves connected with screws. Before unscrewing them, you need to remove the cartridge. In some models, the cartridge does not need to be removed.

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Malfunctions can also be of two types: those related to the electrical part of the hammer drill and mechanical breakdowns.

Electrical malfunctions

It’s very good if you have a tester at hand. It will simplify the task of troubleshooting. If this is not the case, you need to review all the electrical parts of the device one by one.

The device does not turn on.

This may be due to a broken wire. Very often the cord breaks near the handle itself.

Remedy.

Replace the entire cable or shorten its part in the place where the break occurred. If the break occurs somewhere in the middle, strip it of insulation, connect the parts, and carefully insulate the cord.

Poor contact of trigger elements.

Such a breakdown can occur due to oxidation or burnout of contacts.

Remedy.

Clean the elements or replace with new ones.

Damage mechanism failure.

Under heavy load, parts of this mechanism simply burn out.

Remedy.

Replace burnt parts. If there are none, then you can connect the motor directly, but it should be noted that with this method of troubleshooting, motor wear increases several times. It is best to use it only in extreme cases.

AUD burnout. There are no options - you need to change the mechanism.

Broken winding. It is unlikely that you will be able to fix such a breakdown yourself. Need a rewind.

Sparks are visible inside.

Sparks may be due to the fact that the brushes do not fit tightly to the armature. Such the malfunction occurs for two reasons: the brushes are worn out or the brushes are damp as a result of moisture getting inside the body.

Remedy.

Insert new brushes or dry them and clean them with fine-grained sandpaper.

Sparks appear.

This may also indicate oxidation of the armature due to moisture.

Remedy.

Clean the anchor. Important do this procedure carefully to avoid damaging the winding. An eraser or a cotton swab moistened with alcohol is best for this.

Smoke came out of the hammer drill.

Smoke is coming from the device due to problems with the brushes. It is important to inspect it from time to time, because if they wear out and wires appear on the working surface, this will lead to smoke and scratching of the armature. Another reason for the appearance of smoke may be a seized motor. As a result, the winding heats up and smokes.

Remedy.

Visually inspect all elements. If the problem is in the brushes, replace them; if the motor jams, fix the problem (there is a description of mechanical damage below).

Mechanical problems

Mechanical damage is a little more complicated: a hammer drill consists of many parts, so it may not be possible to immediately determine the cause of the breakdown. Main, carefully visually inspect all the details, and after identifying a breakdown, carefully eliminate it. Here are the main possible damages that you can fix yourself.

The device turns on, but does not chime.

• Switch. Most devices are equipped with operating mode switches. This mechanism is prone to breakdowns. If the hammer drill stops hammering, most likely the reason is the worn-out fingers of the switch. During work they are constantly in contact with rotating parts and this leads to wear and tear.
• The extension of the latch holding it in the gearbox housing has broken, which facilitates spontaneous switching of modes. You don’t have to change the latch, if this problem doesn’t bother you, the hammer drill will still work.

Remedy.

Replace the switch. But if there is no suitable switch, and the work cannot be stopped, then you can rotate the worn part 180 degrees and you can continue working.

Preventive measures

It is better to prevent breakdown, so it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.

1. Change the lubricant twice a year.
2. Every six months, preventive inspection of brushes.
3. Thorough cleaning every time after work.
4. Before work, lubricate the back of the drill or chisel to reduce the load on the striker.

If the hammer drill stops working normally or breaks down, read the instructions and inspect it carefully. Before you start making repairs yourself, really evaluate your capabilities. If you are sure, try to fix it yourself, otherwise, if in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist. And remember that mechanisms that have already been repaired are not subject to warranty obligations and they are reluctant to take them service centers for repairs.

Technologies

It’s hard to imagine a modern set of repair and construction equipment without this important tool like a hammer drill. Its operating principle is based on the functions of a conventional electric drill, which are expanded with return-impact capabilities. They are responsible for a special mechanism that converts the rotational movements of the shaft into shock movements. If a rotary hammer needs to be repaired, it is this unit that most often fails because it is subjected to increased loads.

Features of the hammer drill design

The impact function in the electric hammer drill is provided by a special pneumomechanical unit. However, there are also models of hammer drills in which mechanical or electrical system. It should be noted that these tools are inferior in accuracy and performance to electric hammer drills with a pneumatic shock generation system.

The design of rotary hammers has its own characteristics, one of which is the use of especially durable drills instead of conventional drills. Thanks to its special shape, the drill is able to withstand greater longitudinal loads than a drill bit with an impact mechanism. The drill does not have a sharp cutting edge at the working end - it is replaced by a carbide tip. Meanwhile, the design of the drill provides spiral longitudinal grooves, similar to the grooves of conventional drills. However, they are intended to carry away crushed waste material during the drilling process. To do this, the hammer drill performs, in addition to back-and-forth movements, also rotational movements around its own longitudinal axis, which also contribute to the straightness and centering of the drill’s work in the material.

The chuck and the drill shank are designed in such a way that it is not fixed rigidly, but has some freedom of longitudinal movement. This is done in order to prevent the loss of kinetic impact energy to accelerate the chuck, increase productivity and reduce the vibration level of the hammer drill.

Heavy pollination is one of the main causes of tool failure, and the cartridge, in addition to heavy load, also takes on the bulk of the dust. To prevent the repair of a hammer drill chuck from becoming a chronic problem, it must be periodically cleaned of dust and dirt. Washing with gasoline or cleaning with compressed air is recommended. After cleaning, all elements of the cartridge should be re-lubricated.

Hammer gearbox

The gearbox transmits torque from the engine to the impact mechanism of the hammer drill. It is a set of cylindrical, bevel and worm gears. The speed of rotation of the cartridge and the number of blows are changed using electronic regulators. There are also models equipped with a two-speed gearbox.

The gearbox must be lubricated periodically, and for this purpose it is recommended to use lubricating greases. They are refilled when assembling, maintaining or repairing the hammer drill gearbox.

Video on the topic

Main causes of breakdowns

As already mentioned, one of the main reasons for breakdowns of most hammer drill components is heavy dust. For example, a commutator motor is cooled by a fan, which, along with air, delivers dust particles into the motor. As a result of the friction of these particles against the armature and stator, these mechanisms quickly wear out.

If the tool does not turn on, one of the reasons may be damage to the winding, then repair of the hammer drill is inevitable - you will have to rewind the stator and armature.

Also frequent breakdowns connected to the mechanical components of rotary hammers. Most models are equipped with mechanisms for switching operating modes (rotation, combat, rotation with combat). If at least one of these functions stops working, the switch is most likely to blame. To fix the damage, you will need to disassemble the tool.

Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair: is it worth the risk?

Most users are convinced that it is inappropriate to repair cheap models of rotary hammers. This skeptical attitude is explained by the imperfect design of inexpensive, usually Chinese, models. But if some minor part breaks, this does not mean that you should immediately run to the store for a new tool. Nowadays, you can easily purchase all kinds of spare parts for any model of rotary hammers.
Another reason for the reluctance to repair a rotary hammer with your own hands is the fear of not understanding complex mechanism. Of course, such fears are justified. After all, if the user does not perfectly know the structure of the hammer drill, he will not be able to make repairs on his own. In this case, of course, it makes sense to contact a specialized workshop. Be that as it may, do not rush to give up on your tool, because any repair will be cheaper than a new hammer drill.

Disassembly procedure

If you still decide to repair the hammer drill yourself, then disassembling the tool should be done in the following order:

• Carefully remove the shift lever.
• Remove the rubber cap.
• Disassemble the cartridge: remove the brushes, unscrew the screws and disconnect the housing.
• Inspect, clean the parts, replace faulty elements (brushes, bearings, gears, armature, etc.), lubricate all rubbing units (CV joint lubricants are not recommended).

The tool is assembled in the reverse order.

Symptoms of malfunctions

How can you tell if your hammer drill needs repair? Of course, the simplest symptom is the inability to turn on the tool. However, you should not ignore any other, even minor changes in the operation of the device. This, for example, may be changes in sounds at idle or during operation, sparks from the engine, smoke, burning smell, jerking of working parts, sudden periodic stops, and other symptoms. All this indicates problems that must be immediately eliminated in order to avoid global breakdowns and expensive repairs.

Source: fb.ru

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The operating principle of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer is no different from rotary hammers of famous brands.
The rotating rotor transmits torque to the intermediate shaft of the mechanical assembly of the hammer drill, while simultaneously transmitting translational motion through the rolling bearing to the hammer hammer's impact mechanism and the impact impulse. A rotational moment with a translational shock pulse is transmitted to the working tool. This principle is implemented in all rotary hammers.

But different companies that produce rotary hammers have their own design features.

Bosch rotary hammers are considered the best in their power tool segment. But nothing is eternal.

If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 hammer drill has stopped working, then you can restore it yourself. You need to have basic locksmith skills and a little understanding of electrical engineering.
And another important detail: the design of Bosch rotary hammers is so simple that it does not cause difficulties during repairs.

When repairing power tools, including repairing Bosch rotary hammers, strictly follow safety precautions when working with electrical appliances.

To make it easier to repair a Bosch rotary hammer, disassemble and reassemble it, study the tool assembly diagram:

Any disassembly of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer begins after inspection, test operation and identification of the causes of the device malfunction.

Video of disassembling a Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer

Disassembly procedure for a Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer

Since the disassembly procedure for Bosch rotary hammers is 2-20; 2-24; 2-26 is almost the same, let’s consider the order of disassembly using the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer as an example.

Disassembling the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre hammer drill begins with disassembling the quick release chuck.

Disassembling the quick release chuck

Bosch rotary hammers most often use two types of chucks: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them is the principle of clamping the tail part of the working organ.

The design of the Bosch hammer drill chuck differs in the design of the tool mounting rods depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model. In addition to the listed types of cartridges, there are SDS-top and SDS-quick cartridges.

The procedure for disassembling the Bosch 2-26 hammer drill chuck is simple:

• remove the rubber tip pos. 34;
• remove the retaining ring pos. 87;
• remove the steel washer pos. 833;
• remove the conical spring pos. 833;
• Carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, remove the barrel balls pos. 89.

Carefully inspect all parts of the cartridge.

SDS-plus chucks were developed specifically for drilling tools. The diameter of the tool shanks is 10 mm, the length of the working tool is in the range of 110...1000 mm. The diameter of the drills lies in the range of 4…26 mm.

How to remove the mode switch

With the hammer on its side, remove the mode switch pos. 832.

First, turn the switch to the “Drilling” position, press the screwdriver all the way into the end of the switch button (it is red) and turn the switch counterclockwise to an angle of 70º.

While rocking the switch handle, pull the switch handle out of the housing.

Disassembling the impact mechanism assembly

Having placed the Bosch 2-26 hammer drill vertically on the handle, unscrew the four screws pos. 90 holding the cover of the mechanical assembly housing.

Press the end of the impact shaft and remove the cover. The lid is black plastic.

Now you need to remove the barrel pos. 821 and the intermediate shaft pos. 826. They are not secured by anything.

Disassembling the hammer mechanism barrel assembly

• dismantling the Bosch hammer drill barrel assembly begins from the side of the cavity, removing from it the cylinder pos. 26 with the hammer pos. 27;
• you need to remove the hammer assembly from the cavity;
• on the side of the chuck shaft, remove the lock ring pos. 85, the steel ring pos. 38 and another lock ring pos. 85;
• remove the spur gear pos. 22.

Disassembling the cylinder

A hammer, pos. 27, is inserted inside the cylinder, from which the rubber ring, pos. 73, must be removed. During any disassembly, rubber parts must be replaced.

At the opposite end of the cylinder, a hinge, pos. 29, and two flat washers, pos. 41, are inserted.

Disassembling the intermediate shaft

The intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft, pos. 24, and pulling out the “drunk bearing” from the housing, pos. 77.

Bearings are removed with pullers or manually using a device.

Uncharacteristic malfunction of the Bosch rotary hammer

Bosch rotary hammers are very reliable.

But there are malfunctions that are practically not encountered in practice. Below is one of them.

Bosch rotary hammer drills, but does not chisel

If the hammer drill has stopped hammering, but still allows you to drill, the most likely reason may be the destruction of a “drunk bearing”. This malfunction does not occur often and is not easy to find.

To fix it, you don’t need to go to a repair shop. Any person with the slightest knowledge of mechanics can fix such a malfunction.

First you need to disassemble the Bosch hammer drill down to the intermediate shaft. The disassembly procedure is given above.

By removing the intermediate shaft, you will get to the “drunk bearing”. The destruction of a rolling bearing is indicated by a broken race, scattered balls, or pieces of the race.

You take out the bearing, remove dirt and all parts of the destroyed mechanism.

You buy a new “drunk bearing”, and, having lubricated all the parts with new grease, replace and reassemble them in the reverse order of the disassembly steps.

Disassembling the electrical part of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer

Disassembling the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer, its electrical part, begins by removing the back cover on the rotary hammer handle by unscrewing three screws.

On next stage you need to remove the reverse switch.

Turn it to neutral and lift it towards you. The reverse switch is removed.

To remove the stator cover, you need to hold the mechanical unit in your right hand and the stator housing in your left hand, drag them in different directions, shaking them.

The stator cover will come off.

To separate the rotor from the mechanical assembly, it is enough to drag these parts in different directions. The rotor is secured to the mechanical assembly by a small helical gear that is inserted into contact with a large helical gear of the mechanical assembly.

The rotor has been freed and you can carefully inspect the condition of the commutator and bearings.

To remove the stator, simply remove the protective plastic protective casing and tap the end of the housing into which the stator is inserted with a wooden block or mallet. Before doing this, do not forget to unscrew the two screws securing the stator to the housing.

The stator has been removed, the rotor has been removed, you can begin to inspect them and defect all the parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer.

When inspecting a disassembled Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer Special attention Pay attention to the condition of the carbon brushes, plaque on the brush holders and the reliability of their fastening, the integrity of the reverse switch contacts, and the condition of the wire at the point of entry into the hammer drill.

The length of the brushes should not be shorter than 8 mm. There should be no traces of sparking or carbon dust from the brushes on the brush holders; there should be no burnouts or damage to the contacts on the contacts of the reverse switch of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer.

This completes the disassembly.

I wish you success!

Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair

If you need a rotary hammer repair, this means, at a minimum, that you already have one. Although it is quite possible that you are still just choosing this impact drilling tool, while simultaneously studying weak spots its design, and which components could theoretically fail in it.

Well, let's try to help you. In this article we will explore:

• Device of perforators.
• The most loaded parts and components of the tool.
• Disassembly and assembly.
• Measures to extend the life of impact drilling power tools.

Device of rotary hammers

Studying the operating principle of impact drilling tools will not only expand your technical horizons, but first of all, it will allow you to competently carry out its maintenance and, if necessary, repairs. To make it easier to understand the processes that occur during drilling hard materials (and this tool is designed to perform just such work), take the time to watch these two short videos. The first clearly shows the operation of a rotary hammer with a longitudinal engine.

The second video demonstrates the design of a rotary hammer with a transverse engine.

So, let's start with the most important thing: the tool destroys concrete, brick, stone shock wave, which occurs at the moment of very short contact of the striker with the end of the drill (through the striker). The energy of the shock wave is transmitted through a drill (impact drill) and destroys the bonds (forms microcracks) between the grains of minerals that make up the stone (concrete, brick). The spiral grooves of the rotating drill serve to remove loose particles of material from the hole.

(The conclusion follows from this: there is no need to press hard with a hammer drill on a concrete wall; it will not drill faster - you will only get tired, and the tool will break faster.)

The hammer is made of high-strength steel and moves quite freely inside the piston cylinder. The rubber O-ring seals the gap, preventing air from freely passing into the gap between the cylinder and the firing pin.

The outer race of the rolling bearing, mounted at an angle on the shaft rotated by the electric motor, performs reciprocating movements, causing the piston cylinder to move back and forth. When the cylinder moves forward (towards the drill), the hammer remains in place by inertia, the air between the hammer and the rear wall of the cylinder is compressed and pushes the hammer to meet the end of the drill.

In fact, this air serves as a damping element that prevents deformation and destruction of the hammer cylinder. In a tool with a transverse engine, the cylinder is stationary, and the vacuum and compression of the air behind the striker is created by a piston driven by a crank mechanism.

The most loaded parts and components of a hammer drill

Based on the foregoing, the impact mechanism and gearbox are in the process of long work experiences maximum loads. Part of the kinetic energy of the striker goes into thermal energy, and heats the entire assembly. The sealing ring continuously rubs against the inner surface of the cylinder and, if there is a lack of lubrication, wears out, allowing more and more air to escape from the working area over time.

The energy of compressed air is becoming less and less - the impact drill no longer chisels as needed. When repairing a hammer drill yourself, sometimes it is enough to simply replace the lubricant in the gearbox, the piston cylinder and the rubber sealing ring on the hammer.

For prolonged periods continuous operation or during normal drilling under high load, the electric motor can easily overheat and burn out. Although the latest models of the tool have an electronic control unit that includes motor overload protection. If you wish, you can read about troubleshooting the electric motor, power cord, electronics and power button in the previous article.

Disassembling and assembling a hammer drill

When trying to repair a rotary hammer with your own hands, first of all, you need to disassemble it. To do this, remove the rubber tip, the ring spring, and the casing of the drill fixing coupling. The fixing steel ball is removed. By turning the operating mode switch to its extreme position and pressing the locking button on it, the switch handle is removed.

The rear cover on the handle is removed, and the motor brushes are removed.

How to repair a rotary hammer with your own hands

Unscrew 4 screws (from the drill side) and remove the entire front part of the tool (gearbox housing), containing the barrel, gearbox, impact mechanism and operating mode switch.

The engine rotor is removed. Unscrew the two screws securing the stator. 4 terminals are removed from the stator contacts, then it is removed from the housing. The switch (button + reverse switch), brush holder, noise filter and power cord are removed.

If it is necessary to repair the hammer drill in terms of the impact mechanism and gearbox, unscrew 4 screws from the end of the gearbox housing, then remove the outer plastic casing. It is better to do this in a vertical position. Then in the inner case all the parts will remain in their places.

After replacing the faulty part, assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Parts that turn out to be “extra” should be wiped dry and taken to a repair shop along with the hammer drill.

Activities to extend the “life” of a rotary hammer

All activities boil down to the following:

• Please read the user manual and operating instructions for the instrument carefully.
• Strictly follow the instructions specified in the instructions.
• Regularly replace the lubricant of the gearbox and impact mechanism. Exactly replace, since there is no point in adding new lubricant to the used old one - metal dust serves as an excellent abrasive, “eating” everything in its path.
• Before work, lubricate the drill shank.
• Inspect motor brushes regularly and replace as necessary.
• Clean the outside of the tool every day after finishing work.
• Try not to work in clouds of dust - it is harmful not only for the hammer drill, but also for your lungs. Ventilate workplace by opening all the windows.
• Don’t go into something you understand absolutely nothing about - entrust the maintenance to a professional, or, if you’ve already decided to repair the rotary hammer yourself, then do it slowly, remembering well where you put it.

We wish you success!

How to disassemble a hammer drill chuck? Learning to do simple things, avoiding mistakes

Why do you need knowledge of how to disassemble a hammer drill cartridge? If a rather expensive tool breaks down, wouldn’t it be easier to just take it to a repair shop? However, as practice shows, not every user strives to go there (either, sometimes, due to lack of time, or due to lack of sufficient quantity additional funds, because repairs can sometimes be quite expensive and result in a price for which you can buy half of a new set of tools).

Therefore, some people prefer to disassemble it themselves, with their own hands. After all, it is clear that if a device suddenly stops working for a number of reasons, then the most predictable solution would be to disassemble it and fix the problem.

How to disassemble a hammer drill chuck so that the tool, when reassembled, will continue to function after the fault found has been eliminated? But it is not necessary to do this only in cases where trouble has already occurred. You also need to know how a thing such as a hammer drill is disassembled for maintenance and lubrication. So, in any case, the knowledge can be useful to almost everyone who has a similar device on their household.

Removing the cartridge

First you need to determine its design, and, by the way, they are different. Cam - various drills are inserted and replaced using a special key. With a collet, you just need to turn the part, and you don’t need keys for these purposes. The quick-clamping type (one- or two-sleeve) has a different design. In general, drills can be mounted differently on different devices, and this factor should also be taken into account.

Many beginners often ask: why are so many species needed?

The thing is that the instruments themselves come with large or low power. And if the device is powerful enough, then you need to seriously think about the reliability of the fastenings for drills and attachments, otherwise tragedy cannot be avoided!

In some cases, the part can be removed quite easily, but in others you will have to tinker. We study the fastenings of the cartridge itself. The part is usually held in the working position using a spindle or screw rods (we rarely see a more tenacious fixation, depending on the manufacturer, and then new applied efforts will be required).

But in its most common version, the cartridge can be removed using three simple tools: a screwdriver, a wrench and a small hammer. You need to tap the head of the screw with a hammer, slightly loosening the fixation. Then tighten the screw using a screwdriver. Clamp the chuck in a vice or wrench and turn the spindle.

Studying the details

We will not consider rarer and older models. Today, many modern hammer drills are quite versatile and indispensable in performing some work during repairs and construction.

How to repair a hammer drill?

Accordingly, for such a tool there are many attachments and adapters in accordance with the tasks. But the basis of the design is still the cartridge.

By the way, professionals advise keeping a replacement cartridge on hand as a reserve: under sufficiently heavy loads, the only one may break, and you will not have anything to replace it with. Experts note that for different jobs it is necessary to use different chucks: with a key (for large drills), quick-clamping (for quickly changing adapters and drills during work).

Very important: If previously the drill was mounted on movable jaws, today progress has long gone forward - in an SDS chuck, for example, the drill is held using guide wedges and special locking balls (usually 2 or 3). This type of fastening looks fast and, most importantly, very reliable.

Replacing attachments is also greatly simplified. You just need to insert the selected one into the slot and press until it clicks.

How to disassemble yourself

The most common devices nowadays are models from some well-known brands. We will tell you how to disassemble a hammer drill chuck using Bosh as an example.

• Move the plastic part aside and remove the rubber seal.
• Using a screwdriver, pry off the ring to secure it. Next is a similar washer. You need to act as carefully as possible, without sudden movements that could cause these small parts to break and bounce.
• Behind the puck there is another ring. It must be turned and also removed, prying it off, for example, with a screwdriver.
• Behind the plastic there will be an SDS clamp, which consists of a spring, a ball and a washer. We take out the ball, then pry off the washer and pull out the spring.

It must be said that the cartridge is usually dealt with various tasks, including making repairs or replacing failed parts, cleaning, and lubricating parts. And cartridges from modern rotary hammers of other models (for example, Makita) are disassembled in approximately the same sequence as Bosh. Sometimes, however, there are design nuances, but this happens quite rarely.

Assembling the cartridge and replacing it

After carrying out the planned repair, restoration or maintenance work, the cartridge must be properly assembled. This will be quite simple to do by following the previous instructions in reverse order: starting with last stage and ending first.

As already stated, when choosing a replacement cartridge, remember that not every cartridge will fit every base. This circumstance should be taken into account when selecting a part from the same company as everything else, or at least observing the basic parameters of the cartridge.

When installing a new one, you need to perform several steps: screw the part onto the drill until it stops, insert the fixing screw into the socket, and tighten it with a screwdriver until it stops. Afterwards, we check how the parts are secured, and you can start working on it. repair work with this essential tool.

Results: In general, as you can see, there is nothing complicated if you know how to disassemble the hammer drill cartridge or replace it. Any person who knows how to handle this tool well enough can cope with the tasks. You should also remember that if you frequently change drills or attachments, it is better for you to buy a quick-release chuck, and if you use big size drills - key. Ideally, it would be desirable to have various cartridges suitable for your hammer drill (especially if we use the tool frequently). It is for these purposes that learning how to remove and disassemble cartridges is an urgently necessary task.