Homemade children's chair "grow out." Do-it-yourself children's chair made of wood: easy, simple and fast Do-it-yourself growing chair for a schoolchild (drawings)

We assemble a growing chair with our own hands.
I think it would be superfluous to once again talk about the relevance of the problem of maintaining correct posture in children. One of the most important conditions is to ensure correct sitting posture, which depends on many parameters. Regular chairs will not work. Unfortunately, office chairs with gas lift are also not able to solve this problem, since they do not have an adjustable footrest or seat reach adjustment, and adjusting the seat height and backrest angle alone is not enough. In such a situation, a special adjustable chair will be a great solution!

You can find many on the Internet various options for every taste. From all the variety I chose the design I liked.


The design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. She is very technologically advanced. It is important to take into account the ratio of the sizes of the elements, their mutual arrangement, strength and stability of the entire structure. Of course, we couldn’t find any drawings either on the manufacturer’s website or on the Internet. Therefore, I had to develop the drawings myself. All the more interesting. The design took several days.

Unfortunately, I do not have a plotter at my disposal to display images. the right size, and the program in which I worked does not know how to print large images in parts (or I simply could not figure out how to do this). Therefore, we had to solve the problem in a roundabout way. Part drawings were saved as regular high-resolution photographs. Further using free program PosteRazor are converted into PDF documents containing drawings at the required scale and divided into separate A4 sheets.

Do I have the right to publish them? Am I violating someone's copyright? After all, I saw the chair on the Internet and someone was designing it! Let's figure it out.

This situation can be looked at from two points of view: ethical and legal. We will omit the ethical side of the issue, because a whole spectrum of well-reasoned opinions is possible here and most likely it will not be possible to arrive at the truth. But from a legal point of view, the search for truth is not so hopeless.

So, legally, a chair cannot be an object of copyright. In this case, according to the Civil Code, it can be either a utility model or an industrial design, which are recognized and protected only under the condition state registration, on the basis of which the federal executive authority for intellectual property issues a patent. There is no mention of any patents on the manufacturer’s website; most likely, no one patented this chair. To be honest, I don’t see what can be patented there - in comparison with analogues, there is no particular novelty or originality. Although the design is quite successful. And I didn’t find it on www.freepatent.ru. This means that I will not violate anyone’s patent rights for lack of any.

But drawings, according to the Administrative Code, are objects of copyright and are protected without any registration by default, as a type of work of fine art (computer programs, by the way, as literary works). The drawings I developed are not an exact copy of the original, which is not available to me, but are the result of intellectual work and reflect my vision of the design, the general features of which I saw in photographs. And as an author, I have every right to publish the results of my work. Unlike those who, without permission or a link to the source, post articles from my blog on their websites to attract visitors. You have to put copyright on the photos.

Well enough tediousness, it's time to get down to business!
Drawings of a growing chair can be downloaded from the link: https://yadi.sk/d/-nS9on3WmbxdF
If there is no detail in the archive, then its description will be further in the text.

We print them like a regular multi-page document on A4 sheets. At the same time, in the Acrobat Reader Print Wizard, it is important not to forget to specify the “Actual Size” scale. As a result, after gluing together the individual sheets, we get a drawing of the part on a scale of 1:1.

We cut out the drawing of the racks along the contour and paste it onto a sheet of plywood.

Plywood with a thickness of 22 mm was chosen as the material for the racks. We cut out the first part, departing 5 mm from the contour. In general, the quality and accuracy of the cut are not very important. If only there was some reserve left.

Now the resulting rough edges of the workpiece must be aligned exactly according to the drawing. I usually use the term “combing” to refer to this action. To do this, we press a flat strip against the workpiece along the line of the drawing and go along the edge with a copy cutter with an upper bearing. I processed the fillets by guiding the router with my hands, followed by adjusting the fillets. grinder. You can spend more time on this preparation, because... it will serve as a template and the quality of the remaining racks depends on the quality of its processing.

Now, having a template, we mark and cut out the remaining blanks for the racks

Next, use self-tapping screws to secure the template to the workpieces. To tighten the screws, we make holes in the template in the places where there will be holes for attaching the seat and footrest. In this case, the head of the twisted self-tapping screw should not protrude from the template.

And using a copy cutter we align the edges of the workpiece according to the template.

Using a router inserted into the table, we make a groove in which the elements that secure the seat and footrest will move. For simplicity, I decided to call them runners. The groove depth is 10 mm, the groove width is 24 mm (it might be more convenient to make the groove width equal to the width of the existing plywood - 22 mm, but there was no such cutter in the workshop).

In the middle of the groove we make holes at equal distances. WITH reverse side When working with the workpiece, you must place a block at the point where the drill exits so that the drill does not break out the bottom layer of veneer. It will be extremely difficult to close or disguise such a chip.

We do the same with the runners. We print the drawing in real size, cut it out and paste it onto a sheet of plywood. Next, we cut it out with a margin and “comb it” as we did with the stand template.

From the same sheet of 22 mm plywood, using a jigsaw, we roughly cut out future runners with a margin.

We use the same self-tapping screws to fix the template on the workpiece.

And on the milling table, using a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpieces according to the template.

Using an edge moulder, we round the edges on all the resulting parts. Rounding radius 4.8 mm.

Next, a rail is cut out, with the help of which the runners engage with the groove on the racks. Rail height 20 mm, width 24 mm. Because I didn’t have either 20 mm or 24 mm plywood, so it was decided to make the slats from solid ash. This wood has excellent strength characteristics.

A corresponding groove was made in the runners on the milling table and slats were glued into it. At the same time, when you make a gutter, you must not forget that there are right and left runners.

After the glue has dried, the slats are sawn and ground flush with the runner body. There are also holes made in the runners for fixing them on the racks.

The runners also have gutters milled parallel to the floor. Gutter depth 10 mm, width 16 mm. These gutters will hold the seats and footrests. In the next photo you can see the finished runners.

We do the same with the seat and footrest templates: print the drawing, glue it onto plywood and cut out the blank.

In order to make even roundings, I used a thin strip of 5 mm plywood, passed between the screws that set the desired radius. It bends well and creates smooth transitions. How this is done can be seen in the photo:

As a result, we get two templates - footrests (left) and seats (right). Next, we work with them according to the already worked out scheme - we mark the blanks (we trace the templates with a pencil) and cut them out using a jigsaw with an indentation of 5 mm. 16 mm plywood was used for them, although 22 mm is also possible. We fix the template on the workpiece using self-tapping screws and work out the edges with a copy cutter. Having ready-made templates the whole operation takes a few minutes. The small holes left on the finished parts from the screws can either be simply ignored due to their small size, or hidden using putty at the grinding stage. Personally, I took the first path. Don't forget to round the edges using an edge bevel cutter.

The template for the back was made “on the spot”. That's why there is no drawing of the back. I made the top and bottom edges according to the seat template. Back height 100 mm, Width 464 mm (depth of groove for backrest in racks 10 mm). After the template is ready, we make a couple of backs using it using a jigsaw and a copy cutter in a few minutes.

There are three bars in total in the chair. They are made from the same 22mm sheet. The dimensions of the crossbars fixing the runners are 399x50x22 mm. The lower crossbar (in the lower part near the floor) - 444x30x22 mm. Using a 10 mm straight cutter, we make grooves for countersunk furniture nuts - barrels.

Next, we make a groove for the backrest. The angle of the backrest was chosen in accordance with GOST 19301.2-94. "Children's preschool furniture..." The angle of the backrest is at least 5 degrees or more. My chair has an angle of 11 degrees - it seems to me a very comfortable angle.

We get a small pile of parts

Each chair is assembled using hex bolts and countersunk furniture barrel nuts. The bolts have dimensions 6x70 and 6x50, nuts - 10x20 and 10x12. The mounting kit is shown in the photo.

Ready. As they say, “it seems true.” During assembly, the quality of workmanship and fit of parts is checked, minor defects are eliminated, and “finishing with a file” is carried out. At this point, the sawing, drilling and milling stage is completed.

The sanding and painting stage begins. Now the chairs are completely disassembled and all parts are sanded before coating. I used 180 paper. In some places I had to fiddle with 80 and even 40.

Painting work is a separate discipline. A poor finish can ruin the entire job. Winter outside and lack of heating in the workshop made adjustments to the usual process. I had to paint the chair right at home. Therefore, neither a spray gun nor multi-component smelly varnishes can be used - only a non-smelling water-based varnish and a brush.

Because The chair was made from leftover plywood, some parts were dirty. Unfortunately, it was not possible to completely get rid of them by sanding, so I decided to cover one chair dark color- "mahogany", the second - glossy opaque enamel milky. Only the first one is ready so far. The second, dairy, is waiting for its time.

If, after applying the first layer of varnish, the color applied unevenly, the parts are covered with bald spots due to different degrees of absorption, the pile has risen and the surface has become like sandpaper, and in general it all looks terrible and you want to throw it all away, then you are on the right track. After the first layer has dried (after three or four hours), we take 180-grit sandpaper and sand all the raised pile. Next we put on a second layer, after drying the surface became a little better - there was no lint and the color went on more evenly, but it was still far from the picture on the label of the varnish can. Therefore, we matte the parts with the same sandpaper and apply a third layer. Behind him is the fourth. And so on. We continue until the result satisfies you. For this I needed five layers, which took two days.

The growing chair is ready. The cost of two chairs is a sheet of plywood 1500x1500 mm, 22 mm thick, fasteners for 50 rubles. and a can of varnish. This also includes electricity, depreciation of fixed assets, and worker’s wages.

I saw similar designs on Amazon for 250 US dollars - not a price, but some kind of tin. With us they are, of course, much cheaper.

Despite the dubious design, the design is quite thoughtful.
It is not simple child chair, it's more likely office furniture for a schoolboy. Because it is schoolchildren who spend many hours first on lessons, and then on computer games and for them, the correct comfortable posture is important for posture, less fatigue and preservation of vision. At the same time, schoolchildren are also actively growing.

For more comfort You can make removable soft pads for the seat and back. As an option. But I don’t see any particular need - usually school furniture no pillows. Armrests are also not particularly necessary, because when writing or working on the keyboard, the elbows should rest freely on the table so as not to cause tension in the shoulders. All these calculations are described in a whole variety of GOSTs and the growing chair corresponds to them. Overall, I'm pleased with the result.

You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:

If it’s still worth thinking about the cost-effectiveness of a homemade stool, then making a chair yourself is definitely justified: an ordinary common chair from a home workshop can look no worse than a store-bought one, but will cost 2-3 times less. This is if you purchase material “from scratch” without using accumulated reserves. And if you swing at the exclusive, what with a chair is quite possible for a craftsman mediocre, then the savings will reach simply unimaginable limits, see at the end.

There is one more important point. A chair differs from a stool not only technically, as will be discussed later, but also ideologically. A stool is an essentially utilitarian product; It is generally considered bad manners to keep stools in the living room, preferably poufs. And a chair is one of the pieces of furniture that determines the face of the interior no less than a table, or even more. Subtle experts in etiquette judge a person's dignity by the quality and condition of his shoes, and the state of his affairs by the chairs in the house. If a person has the skill, time and desire to make a chair with imagination and taste, such as, for example. in the photo, then he deserves trust, even if he is still in cramped circumstances. And these are just the non-convertible chairs; folding and, say, step-chairs are a special class of joinery, which we will discuss later.

Note: the subtleties of high treatment sometimes reach the point of curiosity. This is how, for example, a certain British sailor lord put it about the first wife of Napoleon I, Josephine de Beauharnais: “In England she could become a real lady. Just look at the contours of her stern!”

How is the chair constructed?

Chairs are generally divided into 2 classes: living and dining. The difference is primarily in the seat; in the dining ones it is narrower at the back and a little higher. This was invented back in time immemorial, so that it would be more convenient for servants to serve feasters, and for them to sit upright in order to absorb more food and drinks. Structurally, a dining chair differs from a living room chair in that the legs are located lower; this is required to ensure strength. How the chair is structured in general and what the approximate dimensions of both are shown in Fig.

Dining chairs are not considered essential items these days; Most people make do with living rooms in all cases. A drawing with details of the structure of an ordinary living room chair is shown in Fig. Its feature is straight rear legs, which saves material and simplifies work. A physiologically acceptable sitting posture is ensured by arching the back. It will not be difficult for an average-level home craftsman to draw up details based on it and the general dimensions, and the subtleties encountered in the work are described below.

Note: blanks are collected in bags for batches of 4 chairs for the sake of convenience and accuracy of marking with a hand-held measuring tool. With this organization of work, the quartets of chairs turn out to be exactly the same, this is the first subtlety.

Why is a chair not a stool?

At first glance, it seems that the chair is just a stool with a backrest. But it’s the back that makes it completely different from a stool from a mechanical point of view: people lean on it, or even fall apart. If a stool can generally be considered something solid, working primarily on compression; well, even for bending and shear when rocking, then in a chair the loads from the junction of the longitudinal drawers with the rear legs are much higher, of a different nature and spread throughout the structure in a rather bizarre way. Therefore, by the way, as a rule, they do not install transverse legs in chairs: they will not work in the structure, only the excess material will go away.

The chair is finished using common methods for furniture: tinting with stains, varnishing, painting, veneering, upholstery. But technologically, chairs differ from stools in the following ways:

  • The nature of most of the compounds used.
  • The choice of wood - most of all.
  • Assembly method.
  • Soft seat device.

Carpentry tenon joints

To make a chair with our own hands, we will have to thoroughly master furniture (carpentry) tongue-and-groove joints. Basic information about them is given in the article about a do-it-yourself stool; Here we will mention something in relation to the chair.

Open connections and with through tenons in chairs for the sake of aesthetics are rarely used, as are connections reinforced with hardware: bolts, confirmations, self-tapping screws. A nail in a chair is like a car hood tied with rope.

The chairs are assembled using blind tongue-and-groove joints that are invisible from the outside; they are sometimes called miter joints. Assembly is done with gluing; wedging of tenons is often used, because regular chairs They don't make them with removable legs. A chair with wedged tenons is more labor-intensive, but very strong and durable, because all parts of the connection dry out together.

How to make a blind groove (hole) for a tenon is shown in Fig. if you have manual frezer on wood, then you don’t need to pick out the excess with a chisel, but you need to drill the edges of the hole: it’s easy to just “go away” with an end mill. In this case, the edges of the tenon are also rounded, but it will only be neater and stronger.

It seems strange, but it is with tenons that amateurs most often have problems: it is difficult to saw a workpiece for it with a hacksaw without “scratching” the base of the tenon, and a tenon sawed at the base is an unacceptable defect, because the strength of the connection drops sharply. Deliberately under-saw and remove the fold (extra wood around the tenon) with your hands - the tenon may come out “plump” or oblique, which is no more acceptable. Therefore, it is best to make furniture tenons using a router with some simple devices, see video:

Video: k How to make a furniture tenon with your own hands

Wood for chair

The coniferous tree from which such good stools were made is definitely not suitable for a chair, even hard larch. Reason: any coniferous wood straight-layer, and in the chair there are loads that can cause chipping in the layer - I would like it to be less, but where can you go. Coniferous wood will only go into a chair in the form of plywood on the base of the seat.

For a wooden chair, use deciduous, fine-grained, dense, durable species: oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, elm, rowan. Birch will be used for children's chairs; and birch plywood - for folding ones. General furniture preparation conditions: room dryness(8-12%), not chamber drying, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion or other harmless biocides, for example. high-purity mineral oil for furniture, oil-wax compositions, acrylic compounds for furniture.

Wood for a chair will cost less if you take it not sawn, but in solids, and dissolve it yourself using a circular saw or a grinder with circular saw in a makeshift bed. For some products, e.g. bar stools, see below, you can’t do without an array, because... lumber of the required width is either not available, or is very expensive. In this case, you need to know that solid wood is sold for decorative and structural purposes. The second ones are more expensive, because their mechanical properties are standardized and checked, but decorative solids are not.

The last thing to consider when choosing wood for a chair is that “decorative” defects are unacceptable. In a stool or tabletop, slanted, twisted, tightly fitting knots can be beneficial, ultimately giving a beautiful texture, but a chair made from such wood will soon break.

Assembly

A wooden chair is assembled without a seat twice: first dry and without wedges, and after adjusting the parts and checking the configuration by measuring the sides and pairs (oblique diagonals from the lower corner to the opposite upper one), finally with wedging and gluing. In both cases, the so-called. an apron made from the rear legs, rear and longitudinal tsars, and the “apron” is already adjusted to it, see fig.

Note: note the way the tenons are inserted into the front legs here and below when we get to the seat posts. With equal spikes, like in a stool, the sides of the chair do not cut into the legs, and there will not be adequate strength.

About frame details

All parts of the chair are made from solid wood. The temptation to make the rear legs prefabricated to save material is great, but don’t: they will soon break. It’s better to take on the set right away, marking the contours on the surface of the board according to the template with a shift. If the chair is for dining, then in this case the longitudinal drawers should also be slanted/curved, and the question arises: how to make tenons with grooves? It is very difficult to mow at home, and it is not necessary. You will have to spend a little more material, but oblique/curved drawers with straight tenons can be obtained without much difficulty from a board as thick as the drawer height, see fig.:

Only now you need to mill the tenons, using a mandrel with the required angle, and always in a bag: remove the fold from the long sides, transfer the bag and fold the short sides. The corners of the studs are rounded separately, this is no longer critical.

Back

The back of a chair, as you know, can be solid, hard, stacked, or soft. Solid rigid - just a curved bar. It is cut out, like the curved drawers, as well as the details of the hard inlaid backs, pos. 1-3 in Fig.; We won’t talk about the backs of Viennese and other complex chairs for now. The back parts are assembled on spikes; We’ll leave chairs with backs with screws in museums of Soviet consumer goods.

For a simple soft back, pos. 4, you need a straight top bar and, possibly, an intermediate support (purlin, “backrest”). The base of the back is made of 4-6 mm plywood. They cover it in the same way as the seat, see below, but use foam rubber no thicker than 7 mm or use batting/felt. The soft padding is placed on glue, not reaching 15-20 mm to the edges. Decorative cladding sewn with a pocket, put on a padded base and stitched at the bottom. Place the backrest in the grooves selected in the top bar, rear drawer or purlin and rear legs; select the grooves by measuring the thickness of the back covered with fabric. The sequence of chair assembly changes:

  1. assemble the left (right) part of the apron with the back drawer, top bar and purlin for dry use;
  2. they put the backrest, perhaps with adjustments;
  3. they complete the apron by installing the missing rear leg with its own longitudinal drawer;
  4. the front part is attached to the apron;
  5. after checking the configuration and final adjustment, they go through everything with glue (optionally with wedging) in the same sequence;
  6. The soft insert of the backrest is finally placed either dry, or with a minimum amount of glue added only to the grooves so that it does not squeeze out onto the fabric.

Seat

How the chair cushion is arranged is shown in Fig. with a drawing at the beginning. Unlike the seat of a stool, the upholstery in this case does not stretch as much when the sitter fidgets, so the inner upholstery of the base is not required. The base is made of plywood or a solid board with a thickness of 12-30 mm. But the seat of a chair is more difficult to clean than a stool, so the foam padding must be covered with felt or, worse, batting that absorbs sweat. Solid particles of dried sweat are subsequently squeezed out of the seat.

The upholstery of the chair seat also does not need to be secured as carefully as that of a stool; you can get by with pinning it with a furniture stapler without gluing. Cover the pillow with decorative fabric in the usual way, trimming the scars that form at the corners. But the cladding made as shown in Fig. will last much longer. If the chair is covered with much more elastic and expensive leather than fabric, this is a must-have option.

Laths or jibs?

Drawings of chairs most often show the fastening of the seat to slats, embedded in the legs along with the longitudinal drawers and additionally attached to them with self-tapping screws. This highly technological and low-labor method is widely used in industry, but for yourself it would be much better to lay the seat on the jibs, see fig. on right. The chair will be much stronger, the seat will get dirty less and will be easier to remove for cleaning.

How to install the seat?

A seat simply laid on top of a support frame loses all the advantages compared to a stool, and the chair frame experiences increased loads. Therefore, it is better to place the seat of the chair in a tray formed by the drawers; To do this, if the seat is on jibs, they are placed lower by the thickness of the base of the seat without a cushion. So that the front drawer does not interfere with the legs, it is lowered to the same thickness, which will only make the entire frame stronger, and the seat itself is moved forward by the thickness of the drawer or a little more. Then the front jibs cut into the front frame flush with its top.

About curly legs

I really want to put a homemade chair on curly legs made of wood. This is not at all as difficult as it might seem, you just have to spend money on thick beams: for the front legs, taking into account the margin for processing, a 150x150 beam will do, and for the rear legs - from 250x250. How the figured legs on the bars are marked is clear from Fig. Basic conditions: you need 2 identical templates, with their heads and heels meeting on the inner (relative to the finished leg) edge of the beam. However, the convergence of the heels is not necessary, then they will turn out to be wide, like hooves, and the trace of their supporting surface will look like a horseshoe. The technology itself does not require art education: they simply remove the excess from the side of the inner edge and alternately from the outer edges.

Different chairs

We will assume that you now have a good idea of ​​how to make an ordinary living room or dining chair. But there are a huge number of varieties of household chairs. Most of them are folding ones; I must say that folding furniture is now experiencing rapid growth and is widely used not only as a temporary solution, but also to save space and/or modify home design. Chairs play an important role here, see for example. video:

Video: folding chair as a solution for small apartments

Folding

Folding chairs, so to speak, classic look, both modern and ancient ones look similar, see fig. Until recently, their advantage was that when folded they take up little space. But, firstly, the tilt of the back of such a chair is not optimal. Secondly, the mechanism requires the shoes of the rear edge of the seat to slide into longitudinal grooves, which is complicated and weakens the structure. Therefore, patents for chairs similar to each other number in the thousands, and the optimum in the end was not found at all where they were looking, see below.

For example, an attempt to optimize the design of the original folding chair is shown in the following. rice.:

There is only one drawback, but it is fatal: the huge overhang of the seat forward relative to the support line, which is why the first landing on new chair may end in failure in the literal sense of the word. Other designers have tried to make the folding chair more ergonomic or by making the rear legs with a bend, at the top in Fig. below, or by moving the joint of the spreader upward, below in the same place. In both cases, the design cannot be called simple and the dimensions when folded are “protruding”. And in the first case, the conditionally rear (i.e., connected to the sides of the back) legs cannot be made in one piece, which is contraindicated for any chair.

A solution was found relatively recently, and when you see what it is, you involuntarily recall the statement of T. A. Edison: “Everyone knows that this cannot be done. There is a fool who doesn’t know this, and it is he who makes the invention.” In this case, a plywood folding chair-slab, see fig. There is no need to describe it, and everything is clear. The double seat support distributes the loads throughout the structure. In addition, by drilling rows of holes on the sides of the seat, you can adjust the chair to suit the rider; There are such modifications on sale.

Canvas

All the described chairs have a drawback: they are hard. Plywood, however, can be made soft, but the thickness when folded will increase. These chairs are suitable for a picnic, but for long periods of sitting you need something softer. The solution has also been known for a long time: chairs with a canvas seat and, possibly, a back. For example, in Fig. Below is a canvas folding chair for a summer house. The design is a little complicated, but the comfort pays for it, and when folded, such a chair is not much thicker than a classic one. True, the leg rests across the seat, but since, lounging in the shade, your legs are not tucked under the chair, this is not so scary.

Even more use is made of canvas and tarpaulin in fishing chairs; Lightness and compactness play a role here. But the usual fishing and tourist gear, pos. 1 in Fig., for hiking they are still bulky and the backpack drags noticeably. If you are going camping by car, you can take a fishing plywood folding chair, pos. 2. Its special feature is an additional rotating plate on the back; On such a seat it is more convenient to languish during a sluggish bite.

For walking and in general in any case, the most convenient option is a tripod chair, pos. 3. This is not difficult to make with your own hands; as shown on the right in Fig. A tripod with bamboo legs is not felt at all in the backpack. If you can find a tight, durable rubber ring, like a wrist expander, then making a tripod chair is even easier: the rubber band is simply pulled to the middle of a bag of legs.

Bar chairs

IN Lately observed increased interest for furniture for bars and cafes. In fact, there are no adjectives “barny”, “barnaya”, “barnoe”, “barnye” in the Russian language. It wouldn’t hurt, since these bars are everywhere you turn, but they really don’t fit into the ranks of the language. However, let philologists be wise here, and we will assume that bar stool exists and is worth doing.

Furniture for bars “from this” and “from that” and with a markup “per star” has become boring to everyone. Inexpensive and enough quality furniture for bars at a reasonable price it sells out well, and here a master individual entrepreneur or just an individual artisan can make good money.

A bar stool is generally tall, about dinner table, stool with footrest. The easiest way to make the seat base is from 2 plywood or solid circles with a thickness of 20 mm and a diameter of 350-370 and 250-270 mm. The smaller circle is the intermediate link for attaching the seat to the chair post, and the larger circle is the base of the seat. If it is hard, the circles are made from solid wood, ground and varnished; plywood bases are covered.

The soft seat of a bar stool is of the same design as for a soft stool, only it is immediately covered with decorative fabric or leatherette; It can also be done in leather if the customer pays. Decorative covers, especially on round seats, in the bar will slide off long before the end of the evening. The foam rubber for the seat cushion is as dense and elastic as possible, from number 35. From it you can make a pillow with a thickness of 60-70 mm, and from 45 - 50 up to 120-150 mm. The lower circle is attached to the support with self-tapping screws from above, and the finished seat is attached to it from under the bottom.

In Fig. above shows the detailing and assembly method of a massive, solid bar stool; Dimensions of parts 3 and 4 are in cm. Please note that part 4 is asymmetrical, because 4 parts 3 are assembled into a nest. In Fig. on the right is a lighter-looking chair with round legs. The basis of his seat is 2 identical circles with a diameter of 340 mm. The necessary strength is given to it by a ring leg together with exactly the same foot. It also shows methods for assembling and cutting out a leg with a footrest: in a 20-24 mm plywood blank, first drill holes to the diameter of the legs with a feather drill, cut out the inner circle with a jigsaw and cut off the ring along the outer contour.

Here in Fig. - a very stable and quite original-looking chair support in a bar made of planks. The base for it is made of plywood in the same way as the previous version, but it is placed on top. By carefully cutting out beveled grooves for the boards, you can give it the appearance of a solid ring, which is aesthetically pleasing.

What about the children?

No, the children have not been forgotten. It’s just that children’s furniture is so unique that it needs to be considered separately. Children, for all their imagination, are always pragmatists, naturally determined to survive in the future. That's why they are tireless researchers. So there is no particular point in “polishing” the aesthetics of a chair for a child: functionality and durability are more important here. It’s amazing how such a little thing manages to break very durable things. Maybe future scientists will understand; perhaps by reconsidering the fundamental laws of nature. Just kidding, kidding. We were all like that, we just forgot, and there are no indigo children at all.

The best material for a children's chair is birch or birch plywood. Its relatively lower strength is not a hindrance in this case: the parts are shorter and there are lower stresses per unit of cross-sectional area. But to assemble children's high chairs on confirmations with plugs or dowels, pos. 1 in Fig. It doesn’t stand higher, like adult furniture: they will break it, pick it apart, unscrew it. This design is suitable for a chair for growth, with an adjustable seat and footrest, pos. 2. It would be best to make the children's chair quick-assembled without fastenings, pos. 3. It will be taken apart - no big deal, it won’t take long to collect. And he (she) will only have more intelligence and spatial imagination. So we give in Fig. drawings of a children's prefabricated chair, and in addition to it - a diagram of a folding chair for very ignorant children. For a dad whose saw and hammer don’t fall out of their hands, repeating it probably won’t be a problem.

Note: also in Fig. Below is a children’s chair “adult-style”, on a frame and self-tapping screws. For some reason, boys like these more and they break them less.

Ladder chairs

Both children and adults will find a chair that turns into a ladder useful at home. The first - so as not to rummage through a dusty pantry and not risk breaking my wife’s jars when pulling out a stepladder. The second - to climb to the second floor of the bed or children's corner. This is especially important in small apartments, where there may simply not be room for a stationary ladder. In general, if necessary, in Fig. – drawings of an adult ladder chair; the legs, of course, do not have to be curly. High chair- a ladder of the same design is obtained by proportionally reducing the dimensions, except for the thickness of the steps.

Hedgehog under the skin

With the best, honest intentions and on a reasonable basis, without any psycho-engineering tricks. Take a look at fig. on right. Cool, yeah? Especially if you ask about the price of 1 (one) product. All the furnishings of a decent bachelor's one-room apartment, including a refrigerator, vacuum cleaner, microwave and electric boiler, cost about the same.

The reason is the high labor intensity of such a chair, which cannot be mechanized or robotized. Or giving in so tightly that easier with your hands do. Highly qualified and highly paid.

But, by the way, the technology for creating such unspeakable beauty is ridiculously trivial, it just requires a lot of attention and accuracy. The materials are also ordinary - wood, plywood, fabric, foam rubber. Large production areas and complex equipment are not required; a garage or shed will suffice. This is a “hedgehog under your skin”: you can do it yourself at home!

Unfortunately, it is not possible to give even a cursory description of this chair in a review article: its volume and labor intensity fully correspond to the nature of the object. But, let's hope that we will have another opportunity to tell you how at home with average family budget make a chair worthy of a royal palace with your own hands.

I want my children to have the best. Nowadays you can buy everything if you have the finances.

But there is such furniture that you won’t find anything complicated, but you won’t find it in a store. And today we will make a child’s highchair for growth with our own hands, especially since we will do it conscientiously, firmly and with high quality.

After all, it’s good when your child has his own chair, and the chair is not simple, it can be adjusted to suit the growth of your child. As the child grows, the chair will always be the right size.

I saw something similar on the website of Belarusian furniture.

To make a chair we will need:

Chipboard sheet;

Plywood sheet 16mm thick;

Self-tapping screws;

Screwdriver;

Jigsaw;

Paint, varnish, brushes;

Paper, simple pencil;

Roulette.

Progress of work on the production of a children's chair for growth

To make a children's chair with our own hands, we need a drawing. Taking a sheet of paper and a pencil, I drew a sketch and then a full-fledged drawing. For those who want to make just such a children's chair for growth, the easiest way is to use my drawing and measurements, this is already a proven option.

Drawings of a children's chair

We apply our template to a sheet of chipboard for further cutting.

Using a jigsaw we cut out the elements. If you have such an opportunity, then you can take the cutting to a chipboard sawing shop; for this, only dimensions are needed.

If desired, you can use a router to remove chamfers, making the edges of the parts rounded.

Since this is a product for a child, it is necessary to take safety into account, so we carefully sand all the parts of the chair so that there are no chips, splinters, etc. All defects must first be filled with putty. We paint all the components of the chair acrylic paint(it will be more beautiful if the paint is at least two colors, the more, the merrier). Let's leave our future chair for a while, let the paint dry thoroughly. Then cover the top with colorless varnish. And again let's give it time to dry. Our advice is to make sure the coating is completely dry before applying the next coat of paint or varnish.

Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we assemble our children's chair, having previously drilled holes for the screws.

That's all, the children's chair is ready, it seems to me, without unnecessary modesty, it turned out great. Adjustable seat and footrest easily adjust to the child's height. The children are happy, and I myself am pleased that I was able to make it with my own hands.

I’m surprised why our industry hasn’t started producing such highchairs, because there are many advantages: simple design, minimum material, practical.

Every parent sooner or later faces the problem of purchasing children's furniture, and a highchair in this case is no exception. Moreover, the market with similar products offers us a fairly wide range, but when choosing, there are often some difficulties. In particular, which material should you prefer? The tree, naturally, wins in this fight, but the price for such a product leaves much to be desired. You can buy a plastic high chair, but it is not very pleasant to the touch and is not always comfortable. There is a solution: make children's

Purpose of a high chair

The use of this piece of furniture has some features that depend on the age of the child. Accustoming your baby to a high chair should begin at the moment when the child can already sit independently (usually around 6-8 months of age). At first, it is used exclusively for feeding, and only then for sitting during creativity or other activities. Today, hand-made children's chairs that can be used for a child come in two types:

  • simple chairs that can hold even an inexperienced baby;
  • transformable chairs that perform several functions simultaneously.

With age, a child develops a lot of hobbies that require spending a certain amount of time sitting in a chair. The main function is still to use it for sitting at a table, including a dining table. A children's high chair, made with your own hands, taking into account all your wishes, will become your baby's favorite.

Necessary materials

It’s very easy to make a children’s highchair with your own hands; you just need to strictly follow the sequence of actions and have all the necessary tools and materials at hand. To make it you will need:

  • several bars that have a cross-section of 50x50 mm;
  • bars with a cross section of 25x25 mm;
  • bars with a cross section of 25x50 mm;
  • board with a cross section of 25 mm;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • drill-driver;
  • screwdriver (if necessary);
  • sandpaper.

Since the high chair is intended for use by children, it is worth remembering the high quality of the material and its safety for health. It is also necessary to think about what the chair should be like. You should make this piece of furniture with your own hands, using only those bars that have a smooth and dry surface. Only if these rules are followed will the life of the high chair be significant.

Preparatory work

Before you make a highchair with your own hands, you must make drawings of the parts. Before you start work, you need to carefully prepare the workpieces. The material should be dried and then walked over its surface. The latter must be done until the workpieces are perfectly smooth. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of injury to the baby.

After preparing the material, you should do schematic drawing, the so-called sketch. If you are making a children's high chair with your own hands, try to make the drawings as simple as possible. Then you will not have any difficulties during assembly.

Assembling the legs

You need to start making children's high chairs with your own hands from the bottom of the future product, namely from its legs. You will need two wooden blanks, 27 cm and 52 cm long. These parts of the chair must be carefully processed using special tools for working with wood - a workbench and a plane. All four sides of the bars must be brought to a size of 40x40 mm. For ease of processing, you can safely use a vice, between which you can insert a block. To avoid the appearance of dents, it is necessary to take preventive measures, in particular, the use of thin aluminum or plywood spacers, having previously given them L-shape. After processing the legs of the future chair with a plane, you need to make markings and remove all unnecessary parts with a jigsaw.

Assembling the crossbars and backrest

At this stage, the back of the product is designed, as well as the corresponding crossbars. The blanks for the crossbars should be about 17 cm long, and for the back - 16 cm. When cutting out the crossbars and backs, you need to make a tolerance of about 5 cm. You cannot forget about this, since they are extremely necessary for further processing. The processing process itself is similar to the previous procedure. As a result of all actions, you should receive bars with the following parameters:

  • 10x15 mm;
  • 20x20 mm;
  • 20x45 mm.

For sitting you need to take wooden boards, there should be two of them. Moreover, the dimensions should be as follows: 150x250x25 mm. These boards need to be planed on four sides. Gaps are not allowed. After the edges are processed, the sharp corners of the boards need to be rounded. Various patterns will help you with this. At the end, these workpieces must be worked with sandpaper, especially for the ends of the bars, which as a result must be perfectly smooth.

Manufacturing of locking elements

This stage involves performing the following actions. First of all, using a drill, in accordance with the existing markings on the legs of the future chair, you need to make holes that will not be through, but blind. A well-known tool, a chisel, will help make this task easier. Using this device in combination with a chisel, all excess wood must be removed from the resulting grooves.

Choosing a method for fastening parts

Before directly assembling all the parts, you must choose the method by which they will be attached to each other. There are several such methods:

  • with spikes;
  • using glue;
  • using nails;
  • wedge method.

The last method is the most popular. To do this, you need to make a cut on the tenons that are located on the crossbars along the entire length, 5 mm wide. The wedges should be about 5 mm shorter than the grooves, but it is recommended to make their width 0.5 mm larger. Before inserting the crossbars into the grooves, the wedge must be mounted into the resulting cut, and then assemble all the parts with a mallet. This will cause the wedge to expand the tenon and the chair will not be in danger of loosening.

Final assembly of the product

After all the blanks are cut out and their surface is sufficiently smooth, you can safely proceed to the final assembly of the product. You will get more reliable children's high chairs by additionally lubricating all their connections with your own hands. You need to start assembly with the frame. To do this you will need bars measuring 15x15 mm and self-tapping screws. After the frame is constructed, you can mount a board that will act as a seat. Before doing this, it is advisable to make holes in the bars for self-tapping screws. This is necessary so that when assembling the chair, namely when screwing the fasteners, the product is not damaged. The bars themselves need to be attached specifically to inside crossbars, and only then install the seat itself.

You can also make children’s tables and chairs with your own hands, such as in the photo below.

You can finish the job by covering the entire chair with varnish, after painting the product in the desired color.

Making it yourself - regular or for feeding, is not such a difficult undertaking. Even if you don’t have much experience working with wood. The basic design is simple, there are a lot of options for the degree of complexity, and the work does not require any special tools.

The main thing is to determine how much weight the product should support.

The choice of material for is determined by financial capabilities and skills home handyman. It is much easier to make a seat from plywood, and if for some reason the workpiece turns out to be unusable, duplicating it will not make a hole in your wallet.

  • Solid wood – beech is considered the best. Its wood is dense, medium hard, but much easier to process than oak. If the cost of the material is high, then you can use solid birch or pine. Preference is given to deciduous tree species.

Before manufacturing, it is recommended to subject pine to a procedure such as de-resining. Wood contains quite a lot of resin, this will interfere with work, and in the future may cause resinous dirty spots to appear on the surface.

  • Plywood – multilayer material from hardwood veneer and coniferous trees. Perfect for a children's highchair, as it is light in weight and very easy to handle. With minimal skill, a plywood chair can be made very beautiful, with slotted carvings. In addition, plywood bends easily, which allows you to make the back curved.
  • Chipboard is the most budget option and the most short-lived. The strength of the material itself is quite sufficient for the loads to which children's furniture is subjected, but the ability to hold fastenings - screws, nails - is low for this material. As a rule, flat parts such as a feeding table or seat are made from chipboard.

The selected material must be available in the following form:

  • bars - 20*40 mm on average, or more - up to 50*50 mm;
  • boards – 25 mm thick;
  • furniture panel, if the material chosen for the seat and back is solid wood, or sheets of plywood and chipboard.

The product is best mounted on dowels - wooden bushings. They are inserted into holes when joining parts and hold them together. This is the most reliable way. But self-tapping screws, nails and even metal corners can also be used.

Quite a few hardware stores offer their services for cutting wood materials to size. If you have little experience working with wood, it is better to take the help of professionals.

If you plan not only to assemble the parts, but also to completely make a wooden children’s chair with your own hands, then you will need the following tools:

  • jigsaw or wood saw for making blanks;
  • screwdriver if metal fasteners are used;
  • a sanding machine or sandpaper of varying degrees of grit - all parts of the children's chair must be sanded and polished to prevent injury;
  • hammer - used to seal the joint;
  • brushes, varnish or paint on water based.

Is your child still very young? Then the following video will help dad create a high chair for him:

Drawings and diagrams

You can always use a ready-made drawing of a children's chair with your own hands, found on a construction site. The best in such cases are the sketches presented on the forums. Firstly, they contain the maximum possible amount of information. Secondly, the questions asked on the forums and the answers received can clarify many difficulties that arose along the way.

Before starting production, you need to make sure that the dimensions indicated in the drawing are suitable for the child. If not, then the parameters need to be increased proportionally, since the stability of the product depends on the correct ratio of height and width.

If you decide to develop the drawing of the chair yourself, then it is recommended, after calculations, to make a test model from ordinary construction cardboard.

Thus, the proportions, height and stability of the model can be checked by the best method - practical.

An ordinary chair - that is, the one that is necessary for studying at the table and for playing. Its shape is similar to that of an adult chair, but the execution may vary. Traditionally it is a frame with four legs, a seat and a backrest. However, for children not a bad option

There will be products from two sides, a seat and a back. The first model is usually made of wood, the second - of plywood and chipboard.

Drawings of chairs for children

Drawing 1 Drawing 2 Drawing 3 Drawing 4

Manufacturing process

Furniture production can be divided into 3 stages: preparation of material, cutting and assembly of the product. A fourth option is also possible – finishing. The sequence is the same when making any model, but the work itself will depend on the complexity of the design and the selected material.

The following video will help you make a beautiful and bright highchair:

Preparation and production of parts

Often these stages are carried out in parallel to each other. The material in the store does not always have a sufficiently low degree of humidity - 12–16%. Therefore, it is advisable to dry the wood additionally. Also, any of the wood materials must be acclimatized. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to leave wood, plywood or chipboard in the room for at least a day.

  • Cutting bars, boards and sheet material can be done independently, or to order in a workshop at the store. A standard drawing of a high chair includes the following elements:
  • upper and lower crossbars – 2 pcs. also made from bars;
  • crossbars – 3 pcs. for a chair and 4 for a table. The bars are sawed on a workbench or on a table, held in a vice. A miter box is used to cut 90 degree corners;
  • roundings - 4 pcs., cut from the board. In this case, the wood fibers must be perpendicular to the bending angle. Otherwise, the part breaks easily due to internal stress;
  • The tabletop and seat are cut from a sheet of plywood, wood or chipboard to size.

If the chair is made entirely of plywood or chipboard, then all the parts - the sides, the partition connecting them, the seat and back - are first drawn on a sheet and then cut out with a jigsaw.

The following video will tell you how to make a children's chair from chipboard:

Product assembly

The best option is to connect with dowels. The latter are easy to make yourself from a board. The bushings have rectangular shape, their edges are sanded.

  • Holes are made in the parts of the product for dowels: first, with a drill of a smaller diameter - up to 6 mm, then widened with a chisel to 8 mm.
  • The parts are attached with glue - wood glue, PVA, etc. Before the final connection, it is advisable to carry out the installation without glue to ensure that the dowels and holes are at the desired level and the angles are respected.
  • For the most durable fastening, proceed as follows: place the parts on a dowel, tap with a hammer to fit the elements as tightly as possible, and then secure them in a clamp for a day. Making the chair will take longer, but its reliability will be much higher.

All parts according to the drawing are connected to dowels using the described method. If we are talking about a plywood chair, then its elements are cut out with tongues and grooves, and connected in the same way - with glue.

Bright children's homemade chair

Chair finishing

  • The easiest way is to open it with water-based acrylic varnish. The color and gloss level of the varnish are determined at will.
  • You can paint the product with water-based acrylic paint. Although it is not as stable as the oil composition, it is completely safe.

On the seat, and sometimes on the back, a soft insert is made of foam rubber and a fabric cover. It is better to choose a fabric that can be easily washed, as it will get dirty quickly.