Strengthening wall corners with metal corners. How to level a wall corner

We have already talked about the eternal problem of crooked walls in our apartments and its elimination. Now let’s take a closer look at the most difficult stage of their alignment – ​​the corners.

Let's look at how to align the corners of apartment walls in the two most common basic finishing options: plaster and drywall.

Also, as you know, there are internal and external angles. The techniques for aligning them are different, and will also be discussed here.

Why are the corners of the walls crooked?

To understand how to align the corners of walls, it would be nice to understand the nature of possible distortions and the reasons for their occurrence.

Although builders use cords, plumbs, levels, and other tools and guiding techniques, bricks and blocks are still laid by hand. This inevitably leads to errors resulting in angular deviations of the walls from the vertical, convexity or concavity, and even general waviness of the walls, both vertically and horizontally. Even the design geometry of the premises of our apartments is often not rectangular. That is, it initially contains angles of more or less 90°. All this lies at the heart of the problem of crooked corners.

The corner is the place where two walls meet. Perfect walls fit perfectly. If the walls are curved, then in most cases even practically imperceptible errors in the walls themselves in the corners give such curvature that one is amazed. The transition line between the walls turns into a curve and deviates from the vertical.

Wallpaper cannot be hung directly - the joints and the pattern do not match. Do not place a closet or shower stall in a corner so that there is not a large, and even crooked, gap. Attaching skirting boards and fillets smoothly and without gaps is generally a task bordering on science fiction.

In general, the problem is obvious. And we have already figured out a little about the reasons for its occurrence. You can begin to correct the situation. But first, let’s solve one more question: “How many right angles do we need?”

Is it worth achieving perfectly right angles on the walls?

Of course, the junction of the two is perfect smooth walls at an angle of 90° - the limit of possible perfection. But should this always be achieved?

As mentioned above, the geometry of our rooms is often not rectangular, which, when striving for perfect alignment corners will force us to eliminate significant angular distortions along all walls. And this big job, which will also reduce usable area the premises itself.

In the meantime, you can achieve visually right angles without completely redoing all the walls. And this will be enough, unless you plan to install furniture or household appliances that have the correct rectangular shape. Only in these cases does it make sense to more carefully level the corner and the walls adjacent to it.

By the way, if the angle is very different from a straight one, and the walls are quite long, then you can reduce the work by making a decorative step or niche to fit the size of the furniture or equipment that will be installed here.

What is better to level the corners: plaster or drywall

Next, we will look at the two most common options for leveling corners: plaster and drywall. Both techniques have their pros and cons, which we will mention later, but one of the main selection criteria will be the size of the distortion that needs to be eliminated.

Plasterboard slabs can hide any distortion, since they are mounted on a frame that can be at least several meters away from the base wall, at the same time hiding protruding beams, communications and other undesirable elements of the building’s structure.

With plaster, in one go it will be possible to build up a layer of only a few centimeters thick. After which it must be allowed to dry, which with a layer of 2-3 centimeters can take several days (depending on the mixture used). You cannot make the layer too thick right away - it will crack. Although, if time permits, you can make as many layers as you like, connecting them with a reinforcing mesh.

Accordingly, in order to decide which method is best to align the corners (walls), this distortion must first be measured. The walls are mentioned here for a reason. It would be very strange to align the corner and the adjacent walls different ways. The technology must be unified.

How to measure wall angle skew

" rel="lightbox" href="/images/stories/remont-steny/kak-vyrovnyat-ugly-sten-kvartiry-2.jpg"> To do this, we will need a ruler, a straight piece of metal profile at least two meters long or a rule, a building level or plumb line and a large square if we need to achieve right angles.

Accordingly, by vertically attaching a obviously straight piece of profile or rule to a corner, we can easily determine the presence of protrusions and depressions. By also attaching a level to it, it will be easy to find the vertical position of the profile. Now we can measure with a ruler the maximum deviation of the angle line from an ideally straight and vertically located profile, which will give us the desired vertical misalignment.

With horizontal skew, things are similar, the only difference being that it is advisable to use a longer profile. Although, if the distortion is almost invisible to the eye, then a two-meter profile should be enough to level the angle.

Leveling wall corners with plaster

" rel="lightbox" href="/images/stories/remont-steny/kak-vyrovnyat-ugly-sten-kvartiry-3.jpg"> Leveling wall corners with plaster is a messy and rather tedious process. The thickness of the plaster layer should not exceed a couple of centimeters, otherwise it will crack when drying, which takes a lot of time.

That is, leveling the corners with plaster is preferable for small distortions, not exceeding 2-3 centimeters in places of maximum deviations. Otherwise, the work will have to be done in several stages or use another leveling method - with drywall.

The advantages of using plaster include its sufficient high strength, which allows you to easily attach TVs, paintings, shelves and even wall cabinets to the wall. The corners are also quite strong and do not require special measures to protect them from damage.

Here plaster should be understood not only as a classic cement-sand mixture. There are many ready-made construction and finishing mixtures sold under various brands, which can be used to align wall corners. Offers may vary depending on different regions, so the easiest way would be to seek advice from the seller of the building materials store directly upon purchase.

How to level an internal corner with plaster

There are many “old-fashioned” ways of leveling internal corners walls with plaster, using simple tools. However, all these techniques require a lot of practice and confidence in the movements. And we already live in the 21st century of new technologies that significantly simplify many classical tasks.

So for plastering the corners of walls, special guides are now used - counters, which are a metal corner with strips of reinforcing mesh attached to its sides.

If the counter-shoulder is secured inside the corner to be leveled in a vertical position, without bending it, then we will get a perfectly flat base for the future corner, on which the rule can be rested in the process of leveling the adjacent walls. And this is already familiar to everyone home handyman process. And even without experience, you can master it on the first try.

The main thing is to properly secure the contra-shoulder. And this can be done using a building level and thickly mixed putty, having previously primed the base corner.

Taking into account the previously measured distortion, we apply a layer of thick putty in the corner. Just by eye. Where the distortion is greater, we apply more putty there. And then we apply the counter-shoulder to the corner and press it into the putty so that it takes a vertical position, coming close to the base corner in the places of least distortion.

The contraschultz itself is quite thin. It doesn't take much work to bend it. Therefore, it is better to press it into the putty using a rule or an ordinary, thick metal corner, which most likely cannot be bent by hand.

After the contra-shultz has taken the desired position, it is necessary to remove it from its inside squeeze out the putty here and let it harden.

Further, as I said, everything is simple. We rest the rule with one end on the counter-shoulder, and the other on the wall and plaster it. In this case, the reinforcement mesh of the counter-shoulder will be inside the plaster layer, making our work easier and the corner stronger.

We do the same with the second wall, which gives us a perfectly aligned internal corner.

How to level an external corner with plaster

" rel="lightbox" href="/images/stories/remont-steny/kak-vyrovnyat-ugly-sten-kvartiry-4.jpg"> Working with an outside corner is easier. Therefore, when leveling it with plaster, you can get by with a simple corner spatula.

As we already did to determine the skew, we take a long straight rail or profile, lean it against the corner and mark all the protrusions touching the rail that cannot be removed (they will serve as natural beacons). It may also be necessary to make artificial beacons so that the gap between them is not too large.

The process of leveling the outer corner with plaster is to apply it first between all the beacons, and then throughout the entire corner - this will allow you to more evenly distribute the plaster over the surfaces being treated. After the plaster has been applied, you need to level the corner using a corner staple. Leveling with a short spatula is much more convenient, and the process itself will be completed faster, but a longer spatula will give smoother corners.

All work can be made easier if you use a counter-shultz - a special metallic profile with a mesh, which is embedded directly into the corner to be leveled. At the same time, you will receive additional insurance for the correctness of the work, and your angle will be exactly level.

As soon as all problem areas have been identified, the corner must be filled with plaster mixture, then the counter-shoulder must be slowly pressed into the plaster and at the same time controlling the verticality with a level. Excess plaster is removed with a regular spatula, and the planes are leveled using a rule that can now be rested on the counter on one side and the wall on the other.

This method greatly facilitates the work, but at the same time requires little additional costs.

The dried surface can be sanded with ordinary sandpaper or a construction float, and then proceed to finishing.

Aligning wall corners with plasterboard

" rel="lightbox" href="/images/stories/remont-steny/kak-vyrovnyat-ugly-sten-kvartiry-5.jpg"> When leveling the corners of walls with plasterboard, you can use two methods of its installation - frameless and frame. The choice of method depends on the curvature of the walls; if this indicator is within 4-7 mm, then the frameless method can be used. If the curvature is more than 20 mm, then it is better to use the frame method.

With the frame method, better sound insulation indicators are observed, the possibility of organizing good thermal insulation and, in general, the structure is much stronger. And the frameless method is simpler and faster, since the drywall is fastened using polyurethane foam. But it is also suitable in simpler cases.

First, we will look at the frameless method, and then we will dwell in more detail on the frame method.

The first thing after cleaning the surface is to prime it properly. Primer deep penetration fits better Total. You can find it at any hardware store.

After the surface to be treated has dried, you need to cut a sheet of drywall that will meet all the required dimensions, attach it to the surface, and finally adjust the dimensions. This is important to ensure that the connections are seamless.

Next stage– apply a layer of polyurethane foam to a sheet of drywall, then apply it to the wall, lightly press it and remove it. As a result of this action, a little foam will remain on the wall. This is done for better grip.

Now you need to apply another layer of foam and let it dry a little (5 minutes) and then apply the sheet to the wall.

The last stage is leveling the structure with a profile or a regular straight lath. A level wouldn't hurt either. You can also adjust the angle using pre-installed inserts the right size(pieces of ordinary foam plastic) fixed to the base walls of the corner.

After the foam has dried, any excess that has come out must be removed with a knife without damaging the drywall.

Now let’s move on to considering the frame method, which is more complicated than the frameless method, but is better suited for high ceilings and alignment of corners with large deviations from the base walls. In addition, the corner will be stronger and more durable.

When aligning external and internal corners of walls using the frame method, there are some peculiarities, so we will consider them separately.

How to level an internal corner with drywall

" rel="lightbox" href="/images/stories/remont-steny/kak-vyrovnyat-ugly-sten-kvartiry-6.jpg"> To level the internal corner with plasterboard using the frame method, you need to build a frame. For this purpose, PS rack profiles are used. They are connected by crossbars using metal screws, every 20-30 cm.

For internal corners, the frame is mounted separately and then attached to the base surfaces. Working right away in a corner is difficult - there is little room for maneuver.

It is important that the frame is mounted only on a flat surface. Drywall itself is perfect for this purpose - its sheets are large and even. True, they are easy to damage in the process, so be careful, or take extra drywall.

Having assembled one side, we attach the next row of profiles perpendicularly (or at another selected angle). And we also connect them with crossbars. It is important to ensure that all the sharp ends of the screws are directed towards the walls or along them, and on the inside of the corner of the frame there is an even lattice on both sides, formed by the planes of the profiles - we will attach drywall to them.

As a result, we get a kind of hard angle. This corner will need to be attached to a perimental profile fixed to the wall along the floor and ceiling. And with high ceiling heights - in the middle too. This is done directly, or with the help of crossbars, in places where the frame departs greatly from the base walls.

Only after all this preparatory stage, You can begin assembling the innermost corner from plasterboard, the installation of which on the frame is carried out with the same metal screws. The heads of the screws are slightly recessed into the sheet of drywall and subsequently puttied.

And here it should be noted that under the influence of ubiquitous moisture vapor, self-tapping screws can rust over time. And rust can show through the finish. Therefore, it is advisable to insulate the caps before puttingty. For example, apply nitro paint, nail polish, BF glue or something like that - not water-based.

And you don't need to let them dry out. When these substances dry, they form smooth surfaces, to which putty does not stick well. Therefore, you need to putty immediately - when wet. Then the grip will be good and there will be no rust.

How to level an external corner with drywall

Unlike the internal one, it is much more convenient to align the external corner. Therefore, we will assemble the frame for attaching the drywall directly on the base walls of the corner.

You just need to place two profiles on both sides of the corner and fix it to the perimental profile using self-tapping screws. If the deviations are significant and the planes of the aligned angle are extended, then additional racks, cross members and fastenings to the walls may be required so that the frame is securely fastened and does not move under possible influences in your opinion. And unlike the inner corner, accidentally touching the outer corner is much easier. Accordingly, increased reliability of the frame is required.

During installation, you need to select a drywall that will fit together with uncut edges, rather than with factory edges (they will obviously be smoother). If you still have to join with cut edges, you just need to remove the chamfer before sealing the seams and finishing. A chamfer is made to half the thickness of the drywall sheet.

It is important that the chamfer cut line is smooth, otherwise the angle itself will be visually uneven. It is better to correct unevenness immediately, apply thin layer thick putty, and after it dries, we begin leveling again until we get the desired result.

You can level the chamfer with sandpaper, and for better effect, wrap it on a regular wooden block.

Crooked corners are a common phenomenon that occurs not only in old apartments, but also in new buildings. If small unevenness in the walls can be masked using wallpaper or decorative elements, then corner defects after finishing with wallpaper or tiles will be even more noticeable. Aligning external and internal corners can be part of the process finishing walls with finishing plaster and putty, or can be done separately if the condition of the wall surface does not require serious intervention. Let's find out how using different methods.

Internal corners

The choice of one of the three leveling methods in this case depends on whether it is done together with plastering the walls or independently.

Alignment by beacons

This method is used only when working with the entire surface of the walls.

Necessary materials

• beacons - metal or wooden slats;
• screws or dowels;
• rule;
• plumb line;
• spatulas - straight and angular.

Sequence of work

• Attach the beacons to the surface of the walls using fasteners at a distance equal to the length of the rule. The distance from the corner is 5–7 cm.
• Using a plumb line, determine deviations from the vertical, make marks on the floor and ceiling, and place wedges in the right places as necessary.
• Start applying plaster on one side. Fill the space between the beacons, distribute the solution as a rule. After the layer has dried, move on to the second wall.

Important! Make sure that a large amount of mixture does not accumulate at the junction. To remove excess after drying, use a spatula.

• To form an even joint, use an angled spatula moistened with water.
• After the plaster has dried, remove the beacons and fill the voids with the same composition.

Using a contraschultz

The best solution when leveling corners is to use a counter-sharp - a perforated aluminum corner.

Necessary materials

• scissors for cutting metal;
• long rule;
• sandpaper;
• putty mixture.

Sequence of work

1. Measure the required piece of aluminum corner and carefully cut it with special scissors, being careful not to bend the pliable metal.
2. Apply a small amount of gypsum plaster to the joint of the walls and apply the counter-shoulder, slightly pressing it with a rule. Remove excess mortar with a spatula, moving away from the joint using smoothing movements.
3. After the putty has dried, go over the surface with sandpaper. If there are small irregularities, apply another thin layer of putty.

Method using serpyanka

How to level the corner of a wall if there are no plans to carry out large-scale work on plastering and puttying the entire surface of the walls? In this situation, a wide sickle tape will help out.

Necessary materials

• wooden rectangular block 50-60 cm long;
• gypsum putty.

Sequence of work

1. Apply a small amount of solution to the joint of the walls and to the surface adjacent to the corner. The width of the applied putty strip will be 10 cm on each side.
2. Apply the reinforcing tape to the top of the corner and carefully unwind the roll so that the sickle does not move to the side.
3. Pressing the block against the joint, give the angle correct form. If the tape becomes wrinkled during the process, level it with a spatula and remove excess putty, moving away from the joint.

Important! The movements of the spatula should be careful not to disturb the position of the tape. At the same time, you cannot wait for the mixture to dry, as this will deprive you of the opportunity to adjust the position of the serpyanka.

Aligning outside corners

For external corners, there are two ways to align: with and without a counter-alignment.

Alignment method without counterswitch

To align the external joint of the walls using this method, you will need:

• spatulas;
• rule;
• a perfectly flat board or plank wrapped in tape;
• fine-grained sandpaper.

Sequence of work

1. Knock down large protrusions and fill large gaps with plaster.
2. Place a strip on the surface of the wall where it touches the joint. Do this in such a way that it protrudes around the corner by a distance equal to the thickness of the required plaster layer. Attach it to the floor and ceiling; if the length is correctly selected, it can be inserted as a spacer.
3. Apply the mixture, spreading it with a general motion towards the joint with a slight downward slope. If necessary, repeat the procedure after the layer has dried.
4. After two or three days, remove the plank and attach it to the ledge on the other, already plastered, side and repeat the above steps.
5. After drying, sand the surface.

Forming an external corner using a contra-sharp

Using a profile will not only simplify the alignment process, but will also reliably protect the outer corner from damage.

Necessary materials

• gypsum mixture;
• rule;
• putty knife;
• level;
• fine grain sandpaper.

Sequence of work

1. Apply the prepared solution to the surfaces adjacent to the joint of the walls.
2. Fasten the counterpiece cut to the required length at the joint, using the rule to prevent deformation of the aluminum corner.
3. Remove excess mixture with a spatula, check with a level that the corner is attached correctly, and adjust its position if necessary.
4. Once dry, sand the surface using fine-grit sandpaper.
5. The final leveling is carried out together with the application of putty to the remaining surface of the walls.

Leveling corners with plaster or putty is a more familiar method for many, but it is also quite “dirty” and labor-intensive. It is worth resorting to this method if the curvature is minimal. In case of significant curvatures of walls and corners, it would be more appropriate to use plasterboard sheets.

If you want the renovation of your apartment or house to be of the highest quality, then it will be necessary to level all surfaces in the premises, including ceilings, floors and walls. These works involve the need to level the corners, and anyone can do this on their own, but only if they have not first become familiar with the technology for carrying out the work. It is important to prepare the entire set of tools and select materials. These manipulations may involve the use of plaster mixtures or drywall, as well as special corners. If you do not have certain skills, then the angle should be drawn only visually so that it does not go in waves along the height of the wall.

Using drywall

If you are thinking about the question of how to align the corners of the walls, then you can use plasterboard for the work, which is dry. The material sheets will need to be pre-strengthened installed frame or on the wall using dowels or adhesive gypsum mixture. Aligning corners using this technology has many advantages over wet method. Firstly, installing plasterboard sheets on a frame does not involve removing old decoration, including whitewash and wallpaper. Secondly, knead plaster solutions will not be needed, which means the process will not be accompanied by education large quantity dust. Thirdly, you can putty the surface of the drywall immediately after installation, while the plaster layer requires drying. But this method also has its drawbacks, they are expressed in the high fragility of the material and the inability to use sheets in rooms with high humidity.

It is important to remember that the corners after such alignment will not be resistant to mechanical damage. If you correctly line the walls with plasterboard, you will not have to adjust the corners, and the internal surfaces can be puttied using To remove the outer corners, you should install perforated corners, and then cover the surface with putty. If you are faced with the task of how to level the corners of walls that are heavily littered, then you will need to apply a very thick layer of plaster, and it is convenient to use a combined method. This technology consists of gluing drywall to that part of the wall that is excessively tilted from the vertical. Once the glue has set, the corners and wall can be leveled with a layer of putty.

Application of plaster mixture

If you are planning to improve your home, you will need to align the corners. The repair will not be accompanied by difficulties if you have previously worked on carrying out the work. At the first stage, you need to clean the surface and then cover it with plaster. On final stage putty is applied to the walls. If you are still thinking about how to align the corners of the walls, then when using plaster you need to use beacons, only then the angle will be as even as possible. To plaster one wall, you need to wait until the layer has completely dried, then you can proceed to installing beacons on the second wall to apply a layer of plaster. Minor errors can be eliminated with putty.

Once the two walls that form the corner are covered with plaster, you will need to slightly correct the corner by applying putty. But it will be difficult to align the corners if the master does not plan to cover the entire wall with plaster. In addition, aligning internal corners is a more difficult task, due to the fact that when working with external corners you can plaster both walls. If we are talking about an internal corner, you will need to initially wait for one wall to dry, only then is it permissible to proceed to the second.

Preparation of tools and materials

Before you level the corners of the walls, you need to make sure that you have everything in your arsenal necessary materials and tools, among them:

• level;
• capacity for plaster mixture;
• rule;
• primer;
• drill with mixer;
• putty knife;
• dry plaster;
• putty;
• perforated corners.

If you want to complete your work in more time short time, then it is best to use gypsum plaster, since it sets faster and does not slide along the surface of the wall. Internal corners can be aligned in one of two ways, but the preparation technology remains the same. At the first stage, the surface must be cleaned of old coatings, including whitewash, wallpaper or ceramic tiles. The next step is to apply a primer to the base, then the master can begin plastering. If it comes from cement mortar, then the corners must initially be thoroughly cleaned of dust; before applying plaster, they must also be moistened.

Using a perforated corner

Aluminum corners are called by specialists counters. They are intended for internal and external corners and act as mechanical surface protection. With their help you can make your work much easier. Even if it is not possible to install the products strictly vertically, the angle will be as even as possible and free of bends.

Work methodology

If you decide to use aluminum corners, you must first cut them to length, and then prepare a plaster mixture. The composition is applied to the corner, and the inner surface is completely filled with the mixture. If we are talking about an external corner, then the mixture is applied to the base with slaps. The next step is to install the corner, and it is important to check the verticality using a building level. Excess plaster mixture is removed with a tool, and the base is left to dry. After the wall corners have been installed and the mixture has completely dried, the elements can be leveled with the wall. In order to avoid a sharp transition, it should be applied from a corner of 80 cm. Smoothing should be done with a wide spatula, the mixture should be reduced to “nothing”. As soon as the plaster layer is dried, the surface is treated with a primer; further leveling can be done with putty, which will hide minor irregularities.

Aligning corners to an elevation

Now you know how to level the corners of walls with a perforated corner, technology can be replaced by a technique that involves making marks and using a level. This method is common for leveling internal corners; at the first stage, it is necessary to apply markings to one wall using a plumb line or level. The master prepares the mixture and fills the corner with it along the mark. The composition is distributed with a wide spatula, and after the surface on the first wall has dried, you can proceed to the second, using the scheme described above.

For reference

Plastering corners does not in all cases allow achieving ideal evenness and right angle. Opposite walls may differ in length by about 10 cm. In order to achieve a rectangular room, it is necessary to use a large amount of plaster. But such precision is not always required; it is only necessary if you plan to tile the walls in the future. The main requirement when carrying out the work described above is the verticality of the corners.

Installation of decorative corners

Decorative corners for walls are also used for alignment. They can be made from different materials and intended to protect walls that have been painted, decorated with decorative coatings or covered with wallpaper. Such products can be successfully used for finishing door and window slopes, as well as the design of panel joints. Corners are made in different colors and can even be transparent, their width varies from 10 to 100 mm, and their length can be 1.5; 2.3; and 3 m.

Decorative corners for walls can also be curved; they are used for installation in arches. Fastening of such elements is carried out using liquid nails, however, you can find products on sale that have a self-adhesive layer on the inner surface. The manufacturer protects it with anti-adhesive paper. It is worth remembering that plastic corners can only be installed at fairly even corners, otherwise the cracks will worsen the appearance of the surface. You can check the error of the walls using a rule or a long ruler. But if you don't want to think about leveling the corner using the wet method before installation decorative corner, then you can use PVC products that are elastic. If the vertical deviation is smooth enough, then cracks can be avoided.

Conclusion

Decorative corners for walls can be made from a variety of materials, but PVC can imitate wood, and its use can reduce the cost of construction work.

It's no secret that it is smooth, clearly defined corners that most advantageously emphasize the geometry of the walls and give the room a finished look. Not everyone will risk leveling corners with their own hands, but it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In addition to desire, you will need a certain set of tools, suitable materials and a little knowledge.

If the differences between the planes of a not too even angle are within 1 cm, you can correct the situation with a plaster mixture. To work, you will need a rule that determines protruding places on the surface of the walls.

The process of leveling the corners begins with the installation of beacons:

• The rule is placed vertically against the wall and the most protruding points of the surface are determined. Detected irregularities are removed if possible. The remaining protrusions will be beacons - reference points of the future surface. They are indicated with a pencil.
• The next step will be to find the extreme upper and lower beacons. They are installed using a level or plumb line. The found extreme points are marked with a pencil on the floor and ceiling, after which ready-made mixture create beacons to align the angle.
• The procedure is repeated on the adjacent wall.

Important: to avoid damage to the beacons, you must wait until the mixture dries completely. Only after this can you continue working.

The application of plaster begins with the areas between the beacons, and then the composition is distributed over the entire plane. Next, level the corner part with a rule or a special spatula. At the same time, it is more convenient to apply the plaster mixture with a short tool, and to level it over the wall surface with a long one.

Aligning wall corners with plasterboard

The corners, like the walls themselves, are leveled not only with plaster mixtures, but also with plasterboard - the same plaster, only in dry form. The sheets are attached to the frame or directly to the wall using a special glue mixture and dowels. The advantages of the dry method are obvious:

• Compared to leveling with plaster, the process is much cleaner, since there is no need to mix the mixture.
• The frame method of installing gypsum boards does not require cleaning the walls from the old coating.
• Drywall does not need to dry after installation, and it can be puttyed immediately.

The disadvantages of leveling surfaces with plasterboard include the instability of plasterboard to mechanical stress and high requirements for a certain room humidity.

External corners are leveled by installing aluminum perforated corners, and internal corners are puttied with reinforcing tape.

Important: if the slope of the wall is significant, then it is better to use a combined method to level the corners. At the same time, part of the uneven wall, and then trim the corner with a layer of putty.

Aligning wall corners with a perforated corner

The use of perforated aluminum corners with plaster mesh, which secure the leveled angle. Using this method, it is important to fix the profile strictly vertically - this will determine how even the angle will be.

The procedure for installing a perforated corner is performed according to the following scheme:

• The corner is treated with a primer.
• Then a layer of thick putty is applied to compensate for the distortion.
• Press the aluminum corner into the putty so that it takes a vertical position. In this case, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the profile to the corner in places of least distortion. A level is used to check the geometry.
• Excess putty is carefully removed and left for a while to fix the solution.

Important: the aluminum corner is quite thin and easy to bend. Therefore, press the corner into the putty better rule or a thick metal corner.

After installing the profile, the angle is leveled mortar, leaving the reinforced mesh of the perforated corner inside the plaster layer.

Aluminum corners are used to align both internal and external corners. The latter, among other things, will also receive protection from all kinds of mechanical damage. Even if the vertical does not turn out to be one hundred percent, the angle will look even.

Often, opposite walls of a room have differences in length of up to 10 cm. In this case, it is quite difficult to achieve ideal alignment results. It should be noted that strict geometry is required only when preparing the surface for tiling. In other cases, small deviations are quite acceptable.

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Metal straightening

TO category:

Bending and straightening of metal

The curvature of parts is checked by eye or by the gap between the plate and the part laid on it. The edges of curved areas are marked with chalk.

When editing, it is important to choose the right places to strike.

The force of the blows should be commensurate with the amount of curvature and gradually decrease as one moves from the greatest bend to the smallest. Editing is considered complete when all irregularities disappear and the part becomes straight, which can be determined by applying a ruler.

Straightening is carried out on an anvil, a straight plate or reliable pads that prevent the part from slipping off them upon impact.

To prevent your hands from shocks and vibrations when straightening metal, you must wear gloves and firmly hold the parts or workpieces on the plate or anvil.

Straightening of strip metal is carried out in the following order.

On the convex side, the boundaries of the bends are marked with chalk, after which a mitten is put on the left hand and a strip is taken, and a hammer is taken in the right hand and taken into working position.

The strip is placed on the correct slab so that its flat surface lies on the slab with its convex upward, touching at two points.

Impacts are applied to the convex parts, adjusting the impact force depending on the thickness of the strip and the amount of curvature; the greater the curvature and the thicker the strip, the stronger the impacts. As the strip straightens, the impact force is weakened and the strip is more often turned over from one side to the other until it is completely straightened.

If there are several bulges, those closest to the ends are straightened first, and then those located in the middle.

The straightening results (straightness of the workpiece) are checked by eye, or more precisely, on a marking plate along the clearance or by applying a ruler to the strip.

Straightening the bar. After checking by eye, the boundaries of the bends are marked with chalk on the convex side. Then the rod is placed on a plate or anvil (Fig. 1) so that the curved part is convex upward.

Aligning corners: step-by-step instructions

Hammer blows are applied to the convex part from the edges of the bend to the middle part, adjusting the impact force depending on the diameter of the rod and the magnitude of the bend. As the bend is straightened, the impact force is reduced, ending the straightening with light blows and turning the rod around its axis.

If the rod has several bends, those closest to the ends are straightened first, then those located in the middle.

Rice. 1. Straightening round metal

2. Scheme of straightening sheet material: a, b - bent blanks, c. r - shock distribution

Edit sheet metal more complex than previous operations. Sheet material and blanks cut from it may have a wavy or bulging surface. On workpieces that have wavy edges (Fig. 2, a), the wavy areas are first outlined with chalk or a soft graphite pencil. After this, the workpiece is placed on the plate so that the edges of the workpiece do not hang down, but lie completely on the supporting surface, and pressing it with your hand, they begin straightening.

To stretch the middle of the workpiece, blows with a hammer are applied from the middle of the workpiece to the edge as shown in Fig. 2, in circles. Circles with smaller diameters correspond to smaller impacts, and vice versa.

More strong blows applied in the middle and reduce the impact force as it approaches its edge. To avoid the formation of cracks and hardening of the material, repeated blows should not be applied to the same place on the workpiece.

Particular care, attentiveness and caution are observed when editing workpieces made of thin sheet material.

Light blows are applied, since if struck incorrectly, the side edges of the hammer can either pierce the sheet workpiece or cause the metal to be drawn out.

Rice. 3. Editing thin sheets: a - with a wooden hammer (mallet), b - with a wooden or metal block

When straightening workpieces with bulges, warped areas are identified and it is determined where the metal is bulged the most (Fig.

2). The convex areas are outlined with chalk or a soft graphite pencil, then the workpiece is placed on the slab with the convex sections up so that its edges do not hang down, but lie completely on the supporting surface of the slab.

Straightening begins from the edge closest to the bulge, along which one row of blows is applied with a hammer within the limits indicated on the surface covered with circles (Fig. 2, d). Then blows are struck on the second edge. After this, a second row of blows is applied along the first edge and again moves to the second edge, and so on until they gradually approach the bulge.

Hammer blows are applied frequently, but not forcefully, especially before finishing editing. After each impact, its impact on the workpiece at the impact site and around it is taken into account. Do not allow several blows to the same place, as this can lead to the formation of a new convex area.

Under the blows of the hammer, the material around the convex area is stretched and gradually leveled. If there are several bulges on the surface of the workpiece at a short distance from each other, blows with a hammer at the edges of the individual bulges force these bulges to join into one, which is then adjusted by blows around its boundaries, as indicated above.

Thin sheets are straightened with light wooden hammers (mallets - Fig.

3, a), copper, brass or lead hammers, and very thin sheets are placed on a flat plate and smoothed with metal or wooden blocks(Fig. 3, b).

Editing (straightening) of hardened parts. After hardening, steel parts sometimes warp. Straightening parts that are bent after hardening is called straightening. The straightening accuracy can be 0.01-0.05 mm.

Depending on the nature of the straightening, hammers with a hardened head or special straightening hammers with a rounded

4. Straightening of hardened parts: a - on the straightening head, b - square along the inner corner, c - along the outer corner, d - places of impact

the opposite side of the striker. In this case, it is better to place the part not on flat plate, and on the straightening headstock (Fig.

4, a). The blows are applied not on the convex side of the part, but on the concave side of the part.

Products with a thickness of at least 5 mm, if they are not hardened through, but only to a depth of 1-2 mm, have a viscous core, so they are straightened relatively easily; they need to be straightened like raw parts, that is, blows should be applied to convex places.

The straightening of a hardened square, in which, after hardening, the angle between the flanges has changed, is shown in Fig.

4, 6-year If the angle has become less than 90°, then blows with a hammer are applied at the top of the inner corner (Fig. 84 b and d, left), if the angle has become more than 90°, blows are applied at the top of the outer corner (Fig. 4, c and d, right) .

In case of warping of the product along the plane and along a narrow edge, straightening is performed separately - first along the plane, and then along the edge.

Straightening of short bar material is carried out on prisms (Fig.

5, a), correct slabs(Fig. 5, b) or simple linings, striking with a hammer on convex places and curvatures. Having eliminated the bulges, they achieve straightness by applying light blows along the entire length of the rod and turning it with the left hand.

Straightness is checked by eye or by the gap between the plate and the rod.

Rice. 5. Straightening of short shafts and rods: a - on prisms, b - on a plate

Highly springy and very thick workpieces are straightened on two prisms, striking through a soft spacer to avoid nicks on the workpiece.

If the forces developed by the hammer are not sufficient for straightening, manual or mechanical presses are used.

Straightening (straightening) is an operation by which unevenness, curvature or other imperfections in the shape of workpieces are eliminated.

Straightening and straightening have the same purpose, but differ in the methods of execution and the tools and devices used.

Straightening is the straightening of metal by applying pressure to one or another part of it, regardless of whether this pressure is applied by a press or by hammer blows. „

Editing is, as a rule, a preparatory operation preceding the main metal processing operations.

Steel sheets and sheets of non-ferrous metals and their alloys, strips, rod material, pipes, wire, as well as metal welded structures are subjected to straightening.

Workpieces and parts made of fragile materials (cast iron, bronze, etc.) cannot be corrected.

There are two methods of straightening metals: manual straightening, performed with a hammer on steel cast-iron leveling plates, anvils, etc., and machine straightening, performed on straightening machines. When straightening manually, the mechanic looks for places on the surface of the workpiece or part that, if struck, would straighten the workpiece, i.e.

e. would lie on the slab without any bulges, bends or waviness.

The metal is straightened both in cold and heated states. In the latter case, you need to keep in mind that straightening steel blanks and parts can be done in the temperature range of 1100-850 °C.

Heating above the specified temperatures leads to overheating and then to burnout of the workpieces, i.e., to irreparable defects.

Straightening is used in cases where it is necessary to eliminate distortion of the shape of the workpiece - waviness, warping, dents, bending, bulging, etc.

d. Metal can be straightened both cold and heated. Heated metal is easier to straighten; however, this is also true for other types of plastic deformation, such as bending.

At home, straightening should be done on an anvil or a massive plate of steel or cast iron. The working surface of the stove must be smooth and clean. To reduce the noise from impacts, the stove should be installed on wooden table, with which, in addition, you can level the slab so that it is in a horizontal position.

A special metalworking tool is required for editing.

You cannot do it with any hammer that you have at hand; the metal may not only not be straightened, but will receive even greater defects. The hammer must be made of soft material- lead, copper, wood or rubber. In addition, you cannot straighten metal with square-headed hammers - it will leave marks in the form of nicks on the metal surface. The hammer head should be round and polished.

In addition to hammers, wooden and metal smoothers and supports are used.

They are used for straightening thin sheet and strip metal. For straightening hardened parts with shaped surfaces, there are correct headstocks.

It is probably not worth reminding that straightening (straightening) of metal must be done in work gloves, regardless of whether the work is complex or not, the workpiece is large or small, and whether it is strongly curved.

To check the curvature of the workpiece, you need to lay it on smooth slab that surface, which after editing should be a plane.

The gap between the plate and the workpiece will indicate the degree of curvature that needs to be eliminated. Curved places must be marked with chalk, this makes it much easier to strike with a hammer than focusing only on the curvature noticeable to the eye.

Straightening strip metal bent in a plane is the simplest operation.

The curved workpiece must be positioned so that it has two points of contact with the anvil. Strikes with a hammer or sledgehammer should be applied to the most convex places and reduce the force of the blows as the protuberances become smaller.

Do not strike only on one side of the workpiece; the metal may bend in reverse side. To prevent this from happening, the workpiece must be turned over from time to time. For the same reason, you should not strike several times in a row at the same place.

If there are several bulges, you first need to straighten the edges of the workpiece, and then its middle.

Straightening round metal - this type of work is basically similar to straightening strip metal - you need to mark uneven places with chalk and position the workpiece with the convex upwards, blows should be applied to the convex part from the edges of the bend to the middle of the convexity.

When the main curvature is corrected, the force of the blows must be reduced and the metal rod must be periodically rotated around its axis to prevent curvature in the opposite direction.

Metal rods square section need to be edited in the same sequence.

Straightening of metal twisted in a spiral is done by unwinding.

In order to straighten the curvature, you need to clamp one end of the twisted metal in a large vice on the bench, the other in a hand vice. Having untwisted the metal to the extent that can be controlled by eye, you need to continue straightening on a smooth, calibrated plate using the usual method, controlling the curvature in the light.

Straightening machines

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The most common question is how to round the corner of a wall, people are questioned in families who have small children.

This problem also arises when designing corners in the space at the junction of a slab and a concrete slab, when the design calls for an interesting design.

Also read: Show off wall plaster without lamps with your own hands

In fact, the rounded corners are not only practical in terms of use, but also difficult to damage while operating smoothly.

It is also elegant, original, aesthetically pleasing and especially important in a multi-colored apartment. A rounded corner can be decorated with stone, wood, or just a background or plaster.

In any case, the corner will not be destroyed and bent, but only if it is properly rounded. What and how to round a wall corner so it looks nice and lasts for a long time and was accessible not only to the professional builder?

See also: Dry Wall Challenge: detailed instructions with video clips and photographs

The most popular ways to create a rounded corner are to use plaster and drywall.

The first, simpler one, allows you to use plaster to smoothly round both corners at the intersection of two walls and between the ceiling and the wall. If you need a full half tower with a tapered base and capital without using drywall, it is likely that it will not be able to be manufactured.

However, this method is more difficult to implement; designing architectural forms is not an easy task. In addition, the newly formed half of the column will “eat up” the small living space, but the design of the space will actually change.

Let's consider simplest angle curves, for example, between two rooms.

The work, as can be seen from the information above, will be plastered.

What else is needed for conversion? The main materials supplied include putties and coatings, sanding paper, wooden plank for a template, metal profile (or smooth wooden beam alternatively), paint. For repair tools, make sure there is a bucket bucket and brushes for applying powders, blades, drilling machines and crushers, electrical assemblies.

How to reconcile internal and external corners of walls?

A convenient ruler, compass and simple pencil will come from office material. If the ceilings are really high, look for a flat surface; if it is normal (up to 3 m), a table or pillow is suitable. And, of course, provide protective equipment - glasses and gloves (sold in every supermarket).

Armed with everything necessary tools and accessories, we continue the work, which will consist of six main stages.

1. Preparing the rounding angle.

As part of this step, take measurements, select a radius of curvature so that the ceilings and floors match the markings, connect them to flat vertical lines, check that the marks are correct.

The latter is extremely important because of the lines Mark the start and end of the rounding and you will be guided by them as you proceed.

1. Cutting a corner.

Armed with a Bulgarian and moving from top to bottom, he makes cutout corner after cutout. Do not cross the entire length of the vertical lines.

Be careful and cautious. Bulgarian just delete upper layer plaster, do not touch the brick or concrete part of the wall. Also, be careful not to spread beyond the vertical because all bugs require putty.

1. Creating a circular picture.

Having a template is helpful to ensure the angle is even round.

So, take the pre-prepared wooden panel, draw the right corner and inside it - the desired radius in accordance with the marks on the walls. Arm yourself with an electric puzzle and cut the inside of the board and finally through the sprint.

Attach a rectangular stick to the side of the template. Ultimately, painting finished polished paints is left to protect wood material from moisture and irrigation the working process.

The template is ready.

1. Angular punch.

Place the template on the wall - this will protect the corner from stray rope and control how smoothly it rounds. Use the template at the top of the corner first, with its vertical surfaces touching adjacent walls. Clean the cut pieces of the wall, aiming for a semicircular shape.

Gradually lower down, level on template, net excess.

Once this level is completed, go back up and down the pattern. He had to move in straight lines without pushing into the disturbances.

1. Padding.

Use a base and a brush. You won't regret it, make sure the substance gets into all the cracks. The purpose of this phase is to increase the adhesive properties of the materials, as well as strengthen the coated walls.

1. Finishing work.

Finishing work is carried out with plaster.

Stuffed and generously applied not only to the rounded corner, but also to the adjacent walls. The grade is also tested on a wooden template - we transport it up and down.

Using the same pattern, remove excess mixture and leave a smooth surface.

In the upper part of the plaster, additional Finishing work With decorative materials when interior decoration in room.

Decorating corners in the apartment

Decorating corners in a home: types and characteristics of work

A complete reconstruction of an apartment includes not only decorating walls, flooring and ceilings, but also corners, external and internal. Decorating corners in an apartment allows you to create a complete picture of the interior of the room, but this is one of the most time-consuming decorative works, requiring not only theoretical knowledge, but also professional skills.

You can do this endlessly, but pre-made corners are much more effective and clean in the living space.

There are many options and technologies associated with this process. Modern building materials provide high level technological capabilities, but their use is rationally combined with the use of professional work.

Coating and finishing corners with plaster

The use of plaster is the most commonly required step between corner decorations.

The technology is quite complex and requires attention to detail.

The thickness of the layer should not exceed 3 cm. In case of problems with deep unevenness or cracks, the application of plaster should be carried out in several layers. In this case, after using each layer, it is important to wait until it is completely dry.

Thus, the process of covering uneven corners with plaster is quite long. When using thick plasters, reinforcing mesh should also be used.

Applying plaster to the corners of a room is theoretically quite simple and consists of applying the material to the wall and leveling it using a special tool.

In practice, this process is very complex, torture and torture, requiring special attention to the details. In the case of self-employment, the following rules must be observed:

1. The connection only applies to a damp wall.

   Align the corners of the walls with your hands. How to align walls at corners

   It will not hang in a dry place. To do this, it is enough to direct corner walls, which carry water, and wait for its complete drainage.

2. The use of the solution is required through sharp, powerful movements (throwing). At correct technique Applying the gypsum solution will fill the unevenness and invisible cracks on the walls that form the corner.
3. The straight leveling procedure should be done using an angled blade.
4. The first layer is the most liquid.

As for the outer corners of the room, use them with gypsum mortar, it is much easier to level.

The process does not require a high degree of professionalism, so you can do it yourself.

The last level of adjustment of the angles of the plaster is dried so that the walls of the fillers, which will ensure the final alignment of the wall, will prevent the occurrence of errors and micro-gap of the working tool.

Once dry, the corners have a smooth abrasive paper finish.

Linking jagged corners to the background

If you don't want to waste time on the complicated work involved with corner corners, then you can give priority to regular hanging ones. When using a background on uneven corners some methods need to be used.

Among them, the most common are the following:

1. Laminating one sheet covers an uneven corner. The other adhesive is also on the other wall that it is made of.
2. If it is uneven and the background already attached, a sharp cut should be made with a sharp knife to remove too much paper.

This option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable.

You can only partially hide the uneven angle with the background.

Decorate the corners with drywall

So finishing with plaster is a tricky and messy process, using a background just masks the corner.

Thus, to trim the corners of the walls in the apartment as high quality and easy? The answer is obvious - drywall.

Instructions:

1. Installation of profiles (using self-tapping screws).
2. Installing sheet metal plates on both walls forming a corner.
3. Gluing with mesh (on each side).

   In this case, the network serves as reinforcement. Then place the whales.

Video “Corners for finishing drywall”

Drywall allows you to make the turning process easier.

With your help, you can handle both internal and external corners apartments.

It should be noted that in one room, decorating a corner often involves the use of several methods and materials.

How to make a wall corner round?

Often, when small children appear in the house, the owners have to think about getting rid of the corners on the walls, which children often hit their foreheads on. However, how to do this without spoiling the design of the room?

For this work, it is advisable to use the instructions given in this article.

Step-by-step instruction

1. To obtain semicircular edges on the walls, you must first knock down the existing corners. When this procedure is completed, you can begin finishing the semicircular surface. To do this, you will need to make a special template that will move freely in one direction and the other.
2. After this, a pre-prepared plaster solution is applied using a spatula onto the surface so that it protrudes significantly beyond the boundaries of the template.

   Aligning internal corners of walls video

   Then several movements are carried out with the rule up. As a result, the plaster layer is leveled and compacted.

   In order to properly plaster areas near the floor and ceiling, you will need to remove the crossbars.

3. Basically, do round corners In the house you can do it “by eye”, but it is still better to use a special template. It is best to knock down existing corners using a hammer drill.
4. If the process of upholstering the corners is completed, then you can begin priming the surface. Thanks to the primer mixture, the surface and plaster will bond much better.
5. Due to the fact that the plaster base contains water, and plywood does not like it, it is better to paint the made template.

Summary of the work completed

At the moment when the new plaster layer has completely dried and will not differ from the old one, the work on the wall will be almost finished.

Such corners in the room look great in combination with rounded corners on the ceiling. But the process does not end there yet.

Plaster, of course, makes the structure more durable, but this method will not achieve a beautiful round surface. For this purpose, it is necessary to carry out finishing work. You can embellish the treated surface using a special mixture to look like “wet silk” or “like stone”.

Also, in order for the semicircular corners to have a beautiful appearance, it is recommended to use ready-made reinforced concrete half-columns. If these parts of the room need to be highlighted, then you can finish them using decorative stone or paint suitable paint. In addition, the half-columns can be subsequently finished with decorative plaster.

An integral part of home renovations is the alignment of the outer and inner corners of the walls. If this work is neglected, the interior of any room will deteriorate. How to level the corner of a wall will be discussed in our article.

There are several ways to bring wall angles into normal condition. You can align them using:

• plaster mixture;
• metal profile;
• drywall.

Plaster mixture

This technique is used for minor convexities and small corner depressions, when the differences between adjacent planes are up to 1 cm. Alignment of wall corners is done using a long rule.

The technology for using the plaster mixture involves performing the following work:

• to determine the most protruding places, the rule is leaned vertically in the corner against one of the walls;
• if possible, all protruding areas are sanded;
• as beacons ( extreme points) there will be protrusions that cannot be removed;
• extreme points are indicated by a marker;
• the plumb line and level determine the lower and upper points (they are marked on the ceiling and floor);
• plaster is applied at the top and bottom points, which acts as a guide for leveling the surface;
• a similar procedure is carried out on the adjacent wall;
• so that the plaster beacons are not damaged, the solution must harden;
• Plaster is applied near the lighthouses, followed by treatment of the entire surface.

Metal profile and drywall

You can level the angle between the walls using a special curved mesh profile made of aluminum. The process of leveling the corner is reminiscent of the technology of using plaster mortar.

Once problem areas have been identified:

• the corner is filled with plaster;
• the profile is pressed into the solution while being leveled using a level;
• Use a spatula to remove excess plaster.

This method will greatly facilitate the process of leveling the corner. The only difficulty you will encounter is the protruding edge of the profile. It will have to be closed finishing putty and sand with sandpaper.

The use of drywall is most appropriate when there are fairly significant differences in planes. In this case, a layer of plaster will not help, as it is simply impossible to level the corner (the plaster will fall off).

Aligning an inside corner

Let's take a closer look at the technology for leveling wall corners. First, let's talk about how to level the inner corner of a wall using putty and a perforated corner (counter-shultz).

The following work must be done first:

• clean the entire surface from greasy stains, dust and protruding concrete;
• treat the corners with a deep penetration primer and, if necessary, an antiseptic;
• expand the areas between the corner and the walls by 0.8-1 cm.

Consistency of working mixture starting putty should be similar to cream (and not thick sour cream). Therefore, when preparing the solution, add a little more dry mixture to the water. Stirring the putty can be done either with a construction mixer or with a regular metal spatula.

The process of aligning the internal corner itself consists of the following sequential actions:

• putty is applied to the corner in such a way that it is located above the level of the wall;
• the distance between adjacent sections of the corner should be 15-20 cm;
• after measuring and cutting the perforated corner to the required length (if necessary), it is pressed into the applied putty;
• the vertical position of the corner is leveled by pressing the lower or upper part of the contra-shoulder;
• removing excess putty from the side of the perforated corner is done very carefully (it should not move);
• the corner dries within 24 hours;
• the final alignment of the corner with the surface of the adjacent walls is carried out using a small amount of finishing putty;
• Using a spatula, movements are made from bottom to top;
• one end of the tool rests against a corner, and the other moves along the wall;
• after the corner has completely dried, the surface is polished with an abrasive mesh;
• All aligned corners are coated with a deep penetration primer.

Aligning an outside corner

The technology for leveling external corners is in many ways similar to the method for creating smooth internal corners. The surface is prepared in the same way:

• cleaned from dust;
• coated with primer;
• large bulges get knocked down;
• cracks and other defects are repaired.

To fasten the perforated corner, you can use self-tapping screws, which, together with the counter-joint, are covered with putty. When applying putty to a corner (in a layer of up to 5 cm), the vertical plane is leveled using the rule.

When carrying out work, it is recommended to use a sprayer. Thanks to its use, ruptures of the applied putty in opposite parts of the corner are prevented. After the starting putty has dried, the finishing material is applied, and the corner is sanded, followed by the application of a primer.

Video on how to align wall corners: