Types of composite tiles and installation features. Installation of composite metal tiles New in roofing work installation of composite tiles

Speaking about this roofing material, I would like to note that it is distinguished high quality and excellent appearance. This is achieved by using modern technologies in the production process.

Features of composite tiles

The basis of composite tiles is a steel sheet, which has on both sides protective covering made from an alloy of aluminum and zinc. WITH outside, composite tiles are covered with a special coating of fine expanded clay stone or other natural stone. Next comes a layer of protective varnish, which not only prevents the tiles from fading in the sun, but also protects them from the effects of precipitation, which is also important.

Installation instructions for composite tiles

Our organization has already long time. Materials required for installing a roof made of composite tiles:

• Composite tiles;
• Cornice strip;
• End plate;
• Endova;
• Groove;
• Foam strip;
• Lateral connection;
• Semicircular ridge;
• Various types of fastening;
• Rolled aero element;
• Roof valves;
• Colored nails;
• Self-adhesive sealing tape.

After installing the lathing, it is necessary to carry out hydro- and vapor barrier procedures. The idea is to make a ventilation and drainage device. During the installation process, remember that you need to move in the direction from bottom to top and from left to right. Wherein Special attention should be given to the joints with the ventilation system and drainage system.

Make sure that in these places the roof is sufficiently protected from leaks. If necessary, use silicone sealant. Well, after all the procedures are completed, you can begin the process of installing additional elements.

Video composite tiles

The video presented on our website will help you familiarize yourself in detail with all the intricacies and details of installing a roof made of composite tiles.

Composite tile price

Available in our store a large assortment composite tiles from various manufacturers at low prices. Only we have composite tiles starting from 550 rubles per square meter.

Composite tiles are roofing materials based on very high-quality steel sheets. A coating of aluzinc and natural stone chips gives this roofing material high quality characteristics. Despite some similarities with metal tiles, installation work on a roof made of composite tiles has significant differences. To lay such tiles, it is necessary to use a special tool, the absence of which significantly complicates high-quality installation.

Installation tools

The main volume of work is carried out through standard set instruments, which include:

• wood hacksaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• construction hammer;
• metal scissors;
• standard screwdriver or electric drill;
• a circular saw, equipped with a disk for working with soft types of metal;
• construction tape;
• bending devices;
• riveter

In addition, during the installation process you will need to use narrow-profile tools:

• bending machine of large and small types;
• mounting gun;
• template 37 centimeters;
• construction guillotine.

The use of some equipment implies skill in working with this type of tool. If you have the slightest doubt about your ability to perform high-quality work, roof covering independently, it is recommended to involve roofing specialists in the most difficult areas of work.

Roofing pie device

Before laying composite tile elements, it is necessary to equip the entire roofing surface with a high-quality roofing pie. A standard roofing pie for composite tiles includes waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation and sheathing.

The minimum roof slope must be at least twelve degrees. A smaller slope requires complete waterproofing of the structure using rolled bitumen materials over a continuous flooring.

On top truss structure and a layer of waterproofing perpendicular to the ridge, it is necessary to fill a timber counter-lattice with a section of 5×5 cm. The lower edge is equipped with a vertical cut, which will extend beyond the rafter edges by four centimeters. A roof slope of less than twenty degrees requires counter-lattice with a cross-section of 50×75 mm.

If the roof slope is more than eighteen degrees, the lining must be provided at the valleys, ridges, cornices, ends, as well as at the junctions of chimney pipes and dormer windows.

Installation instructions for composite tiles

Installation work on installing a roof made of composite tiles is a type of construction installation work, which must be carried out in strict accordance with the regulations of SNiP and GOST. Key steps include installation rafter system, styling roofing pie and direct installation of the finishing coating made of composite tiles.

Installation of sheathing

Installation of sheathing

Sheathing for composite tiles is carried out using wooden blocks with a section of 5x5 cm per standard rafter step at 100 cm.

If the distance between the rafters is greater, then the cross-section of the bars increases according to construction documentation. Wood moisture content should not be more than 20%. The sheathing is mounted in the direction from bottom to top.

The lowest bar of the sheathing is fixed at a distance of 2 cm from the lower bar end of the counter-lattice. This point will serve as a mark for fixing the lowest row of roofing material.

Installation and fastening of the ridge

Counter batten bars are used for lathing joints. Standard length sheathing elements are two spans between the rafter elements.

The ridge sheathing is required to secure the semicircular elements of the ridge and is located on both sides of the element with an indentation of 13 cm. The ridge sheathing for installation of ribbed ridges is fixed with a distance of 12 cm from the ridge.

If there is a valley, the sheathing bars are fixed to the right and placed at a distance of 18 centimeters.

Roof elements

Installation of cornice strips is performed according to the following scheme:

• installation and fastening to the rafters of a four-centimeter thick cornice board;

• installation of brackets for fastening gutters on top of the eaves board;

• if there is no need for a drainage system, then you should install a drip from the eaves board against the accumulation of condensate;

• installation of a cornice strip from the edge of the cornice, followed by fastening with four hardware;

• installation of the remaining cornice elements with an overlap of 10 centimeters.

Features of installing the cornice strip are as follows:

• the cornice board is covered with a waterproofing film, ensuring unimpeded drainage of condensate into drainage system;

• the drip line on the eaves strip should go into the drain;

• It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap from the cornice element to the waterproofing.

Installation end strip performed according to the following scheme:

• the direction of laying is from bottom to top;

• the lower part of the first strip from the cornice must be closed with a plug from the end strip, which should be sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws;

• the end strip can be replaced with a semicircular ridge.

To fasten the ridge elements, nails are used, which should be nailed to the very top of the sheathing. In conditions pitched roof the ridge is equipped with a flat metal sheet, which is bent and secured on both sides with roofing hardware. Horse gable roof equipped with special ridge elements.

The arrangement of the valley is carried out in several stages:

• at a distance of twenty centimeters from the valley it is necessary to secure an additional base of boards with a thickness of 25 mm;

• laying waterproofing along the joint followed by additional waterproofing along the entire roofing surface;

• fastening the valley from the cornice, maintaining a step of ten centimeters, using hardware with an indentation of three centimeters from the top edge;

• by pushing the next element into the previous one, the remaining segments are fastened;

• The entire length of the side must be equipped with sealing tape.

Immediately before laying composite tiles, it is necessary to plaster the heating and ventilation pipes. To fix the apron to vertical surfaces, self-tapping screws with dowels are used.

Scheme and technology of fastening sheets

The roofing sheets are laid with an overlap, maintaining the direction from top to bottom. Thanks to this method, the lower element will fit under the upper one. The fixed sheets of the top row must be lifted during the work, which allows the bottom row to be inserted there. The upper segment of the new row, together with the lower part of the previous row, is secured to the sheathing frame using roofing hardware.

The installation process uses the staggered principle with lateral displacement between roofing rows. No more than three roofing sheets should meet at the overlap point. The type of lateral offset and the size of the overlap is selected depending on the brand of composite roofing tiles.

For more information about installation, see the video.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Good ventilation refers to necessary attributes modern roofing. The arrangement of ventilation gaps falls on the waterproofing layer. The first gap must be located in the space from the thermal insulation layer to the waterproofing layer.

The second ventilation gap must be made between waterproofing membrane and tiled roofing.

Cost of roofing work

Regardless of the brand and category of composite tiles, the average price for installing such roofing is standard and approximately ranges from 1,500 to 2,000 rubles per square meter of surface. The cost is mainly influenced by the volume and complexity of roofing work, the availability of a project, as well as working conditions.

Let's sum it up

Particular attention should be paid to The final stage ongoing roofing work. All edges of the composite sheets to be removed should be trimmed, and then the cut areas should be primed. The heads of roofing nails, as well as all places where the coating was lost during the work, must be treated with a primer and covered with granules of high-quality coating.

After drying, the topping needs to be coated with a special varnish composition. Any roofing work must be performed as carefully as possible, using work shoes with soft soles.

This schematic drawing gives general idea about the main elements of the roof and the purpose of Metrobond accessories.

1. Preparation of the truss structure, counter-lattice

The installation of the truss structure is carried out in accordance with the project documentation and SNiP, taking into account snow and wind loads in a particular area. The use of composite tiles is possible when minimum slope slope – 1:5, approximately 12 degrees. If some roof elements have a smaller slope, it is necessary to first carry out 100% waterproofing of these elements, for example: with roll guides bituminous materials along the continuum wooden flooring, and lay composite tiles for decorative purposes.

The ends of the rafters are sawn vertically. Anti-condensation waterproofing is laid on them Fig. 4.1 - 1. Recommended use: Yutakon-140, Nikofol NW, DELTA MAXX or their analogues. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the thickness of the rafters, it is necessary to use Tyvek super-diffusion waterproofing. Installation of waterproofing is carried out using horizontal sheets, from bottom to top, starting from the eaves, with a vertical overlap of at least 150 mm and a horizontal overlap of at least 100 mm. At the same time, ensuring that the film sag between the rafters by 1 or 2 cm. Do the vertical joining of the panels on the rafters. The first waterproofing sheet is lowered below the edge of the rafters by 100 mm. In the upper part of the slope, the waterproofing is not extended to the ridge by 100 mm for ventilation of the space VK-2 Fig. 4.1 - 2. Along the rafters, on top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice, a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, is placed to create a ventilation duct VK-1, fasten the waterproofing and ensure ventilation of the under-roof space Fig. 4.1 - 2 – A. The lower end of the counter-lattice beam is sawn vertically, hanging over the edge of the rafter by 40 mm. Rice. 4.1 - 1

If the roof slope angle is less than 200, the counter-lattice is made of bars with a cross-section of 50x75 mm to increase the cross-section of the ventilation duct VK-1 Fig. 4.1 - 2 – B. If the roof structure has a valley, installation of waterproofing and counter-lattice begins from the valley, in accordance with P 4.8. When installing thermal insulation, make sure that there is a VK-2 ventilation duct between the waterproofing and thermal insulation.

ATTENTION! Required condition normal operation roof, is the presence of ventilation ducts VK-1, VK-2! The result is the functioning of the roof without freezing ice and condensation. When using Tyvek superdiffusion waterproofing, there is no VK-2 ventilation duct.

2. Installation of sheathing

For lathing use wooden blocks with a section of 50x50 mm, if the pitch of the rafters W (Fig. 4.1 - 2.) does not exceed 1000 mm. With a larger rafter pitch, the cross-section of the beams increases in accordance with the recommendations of your designer. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 20% of dry weight. The sheathing is installed from the bottom up. The bottom lathing is nailed at a distance of 20 mm from the lower end of the counter-lattice bar, (Fig. 4.2 - 1) it serves to fix the bottom row of sheets (Fig. 4.2 - 1) Callout I. The sheathing bars are joined on the counter-lattice bars. The length of the sheathing bars must be at least two spans between the rafters.

It is very important that the distance between the lower edges of the battens is 370 mm! This is necessary to form a lock between the joined sheets of tiles. This provides reliable waterproofing, wind protection and a noble appearance of the roof. For this purpose, templates are used, which can be made from available materials (Fig. 4.2 - 1). The top row of the sheathing forms an unregulated distance A to the ridge. The optimal rafter length is the length at which A=370 mm is the optimal rafter length, which corresponds to a whole sheet of MetroBond®, MetroRoman®, MetroShake®, MetroShake-II )I, MetroClassic®. The ridge battens (necessary for fastening the semicircular ridge elements) are attached on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 130 mm. Rice. 4.2 - 1 Callout II. The ridge bars of the sheathing needed for attaching the rib ridges must first be trimmed and secured on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 120 mm. Rice. 4.2 - 1 Callout III. If the roof contains valleys, the sheathing bars should extend 180 mm to the right and left of the valley line. Installation in the valley is described in detail in section 4.8.

3. Installation of tiles on the eaves

1. Install the curtain rod. The thickness of the cornice board should be 40 mm.
2. Attach the cornice board to the rafters with nails.
3. Install the brackets for fastening the gutters onto the eaves board Fig. 4.3 - 1
   Callout II. If installation of gutters is not planned, then a condensate drip is installed on the eaves board. Fig. 4.3 - 1 Callout I. The drip line for condensate is made of
   cornice strip Fig. 4.3 - 2. In this case, the consumption of the cornice strip will double.
4. Starting from the edge of the cornice, install the cornice element.
5. The cornice element is secured with four nails.
6. Install the remaining cornice elements with an overlap of at least 100 mm.

ATTENTION! When installing the cornice, you must make sure that:

– a waterproofing film is laid on top of the eaves board so that there is
unhindered drainage of condensate into the gutter of the drainage system Fig. 4.3 - 1 Callout II
or on a condensate drip Fig. 4.3 - 1 Callout I;
– the eaves drip line goes into the drainage system;
– between the cornice element and the waterproofing there is space for air flow
spirit into the under-roof ventilation along the ventilation duct VK-1 dotted line;
– in the cornice lining there are channels for the flow of air into the under-roof ventilation along

ventilation duct VK-2 dotted line.

4. Installation of tiles on the roof slope

The sheets are laid with an overlap in the direction from top to bottom, the lower element goes under the upper one. When laying, the sheets from the top row, already secured at the top, are lifted, and the edge of the next sheet is placed under them. Next, the top of the new row of sheets, together with the bottom of the previous row, is nailed to the sheathing.

ATTENTION! When choosing the order of laying sheets in each row, the prevailing directions of wind flows in a given area should be taken into account. Fig. 4.4 - 1 – A or Fig. 4.4 - 1– V.

The sheets are installed in a checkerboard pattern with a lateral offset S between the rows. In places where there are overlaps, no more than three sheets should meet. For lateral offset between rows S and lateral overlap between sheets B see Fig. 4.4 - 1 should be selected following the collection of composite tiles according to the table:

In Fig. 4.4 - 2 shows at what points and in what sequence the nails are driven, following the collection of composite tiles. The diagrams are shown for the case when the next sheet in a row is superimposed on the left of the previous one. If the sheet is the last in the row, then nail 4a is used to secure its free edge. The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 degrees to the surface of the material. Fig. 4.4 - 2 Callout I.

If necessary, nail heads are painted and covered with stone chips. Paint and chips are available as a repair kit. Nails can be driven in by hand Fig. 4.4 - 3 – A or using an air gun Fig. 4.4 - 3 – B. Using a pneumatic gun, installation can be carried out from the bottom up, being below the sheet being mounted.

Rice. 4.4 - 4 – A

Before you begin installing the top row of sheets, you need to measure the distance A
Rice. 4.2 - 1. Depending on the distance A, several options for fastening the top row of sheets are possible.
The optimal length of the rafters for installing the top row is such a length at which A = 370 mm, which fully corresponds to a whole sheet of MetroBond®, MetroRoman®, MetroShake®, MetroShake-II (MetroShake-®I )I, MetroClassic®.

Fig 4.4- 4-B

If distance A is in the range of 250-370 mm, then you can move one row to another. In this case, the sheets are fastened from above, driving nails into the top of the sheet profile. In order to maintain the calculated maximum snow and wind load values, eight nails should be driven into the sheet. A sealant is laid between the sheets. Rice. 4.4 - 4 – B

5. Installation of tiles on the gable

Mount the roofing sheets flush with the ends of the sheathing bars. Rice. 4.5 - 1 Using a manual bending device, bend the edges of the sheets upward by 90 degrees to a distance of 30-40 mm. Rice. 4.5 - 2 Attach a wind board with a cross-section of 25x130 mm to the ends of the sheathing bars.

ATTENTION! The edge of the wind board, located at the top, is set in such a way that the end strip just touches the surface of the roofing sheets with its curly teeth. A universal sealant should be applied to the roofing sheets. Rice. 4.5 - 3 Installation of the end strips is carried out from the bottom up. The lower end of the first end strip from the cornice is closed with an end strip cap. The plug is inserted inside the end plate, sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws. Before fixing, all end strips are laid out on the wind board. After making sure that the planks are laid evenly and correctly, nail them to the wind board, at the rate of five or six nails per plank Fig. 4.5 - 4. The end strip can be replaced using a semicircular ridge. Section of the end plate fastening unit, see Fig. 4.5 - 5 – A. An additional apron is placed under the end strip, which is made of flat sheet, in the event that the thickness of the roofing pie on the pediment is more than 130 mm. Rice. 4.5 - 5 – V

6. Installation of tiles on the ridge

To insure yourself against moisture and snow getting between ridge beam and the ridge element, a universal seal is installed.

The ends of the skates can be closed with plugs, if necessary, Fig. 6.6 - 5.

7. Installation of tiles on a hip roof

50 x 50 mm bars are attached to the sheathing along the hip ridge, at a distance of 150-160 mm, which is necessary for fastening a semicircular ridge element, or at a distance of 120-130 mm, necessary for fastening a rib ridge element. Rice. 4.7 - 1.
MetroTile® sheets that are adjacent to the hip are manufactured as shown in Fig. 4.7-2 and Fig. 4.7- 3. To begin with, measuring right size sheet, marking a fold line on the sheet in accordance with it, to which an allowance of 50 mm is given, draw a cutting line. We cut the workpiece along the cutting line Fig. 4.7 - 2. Along the fold line, bend the edge up 90 degrees using a hand or special tool Rice. 4.7 - 3. Measurements are taken on the roof, but it is necessary to cut and bend the sheets on the ground.

Before you begin installing the hip ridges, it is necessary to additionally lay seals along the ridge beam. Further, the fastening of hip skates is carried out similarly to the fastening of an ordinary skate. Semicircular ridge elements are laid as shown in Fig. 4.7 - 4.

8. Installation of tiles in the valley

Fastening of 25 mm thick boards under the valley is carried out to the right and left of the valley line to a width of at least 200 mm Fig. 4.8 - 1.

The waterproofing, previously installed along the slopes, is laid on top of the waterproofing, which is laid along the valley with an overlap of at least 150 mm.

Starting from the cornice with an overlap of 100 mm, the valley elements are fastened with nails from the bottom up to the valley boards. Nails are driven at a maximum distance from the valley line and at a distance of 30 mm from its upper edge. Each subsequent element is pushed into the previous one and fixed with nails. It is recommended to install a universal seal along the side of the valley.

ATTENTION! The valley element is supplied without stone topping.

Before installation, the side edge of the roofing sheet is bent down using a manual or special bending device Fig. 4.8 - 2. The distance between the bottom bend and the valley element should be 10 or 15 mm.

9. Sealing the heating (ventilation) pipe

Heating and ventilation pipes must be plastered before installation work with roofing materials begins. Pipes should not have overlaps, ledges, etc. In Fig. 4.9 - 1 shows a section of the heating system, ventilation pipe in plane A, which is parallel to the rafters.

10. Installation of tiles on the external and internal fracture of the slope

The installation of tiles on the external fracture of the slope is shown in Fig. 4.11 - 1.
The installation of tiles on the internal fracture of the slope is shown in Fig. 4.11 - 2.

* The size depends on the slope angle of the slopes and is specified during the installation of the sheathing.

11. Installation of snow guards

The structure of the MetroTile® material prevents avalanche-like snow from falling off the roof. In cases where the roof slope is more than four hundred degrees or building codes insist on installing snow guards, they are installed according to Fig. 4.14 - 1 and Fig. 4.14 - 2.

MetroTile® composite shingles install quickly and efficiently on old surface coverings, reconstructing the roof in short time. Unique technique installation allows the installation of MetroTile ® composite shingles on standing seam roofing, corrugated roofing and flexible shingles.

For installation on top of a roof that has a wavy profile with a pitch not exceeding 500 mm, a counter-lattice is mounted Fig. 4.15 - 3. Thus, along the wave of the old, outdated roof, a block is attached, the cross-section of which must exceed the height of the wave in height, and the width of the block must be trimmed in order to fit tightly into the recess of the wave. Next, we install the sheathing and the tiles themselves.

MetroTile® in accordance with these instructions.
Installation of counter-lattice bitumen shingles made from a bar with a cross-section of 50 mm x 50 mm and a pitch of 500 mm. Next, install the sheathing and MetroTile ® shingles in accordance with these instructions. In addition, the roof can be additionally insulated Fig. 4.15 - 4.

13. Ventilation of the under-roof space

The ventilation duct VK-1 is created thanks to counter-lattice. During the design of the cornice, air enters from below into the ventilation duct VK-2. (see Fig. 4.3 - 1). A ridge ventilation outlet is constructed to allow air to freely exit from the under-roof space at a distance that does not exceed 1 m from the ridge. Dormer windows are installed if top part has enough roof cold attic Rice. 5 - 1. The total area of ​​the dormer windows can be no less than 1/300 of the area of ​​the horizontal projection of the roof. Roof fans are installed if there is no cold attic or the project does not provide dormer windows Rice. 5 - 2. Roof fans provide air outlet from the ventilation ducts in the ridge area.

The support platforms of MetroTile ® roof fans follow the profile of the selected material – MetroBond®. The fans are made of PVC, and are protected on top with basalt chips, like other parts. In order to achieve the recommended performance of the ridge ventilation outlet, roof fans are installed no further than 0.8 m from the ridge. One for every 50-70 sq.m. roof surfaces. By providing quality ventilation, roof fans prevent rainwater, snow and birds from entering vulnerable attic spaces.

Installation video

		MetroBond - panel installation Description: Correct installation panels will ensure waterproofness of your roof and emphasize the beauty of the architectural design of your home. Duration: 03:31 Video format: YouTube
		MetroBond - installation of eaves strips and tile step sheathing Description: This unit not only gives your home an aesthetic appearance, but is also the most important element roof space ventilation systems. Along with the installation of the eaves strip, the installation of step lathing is shown in detail. Duration: 08:23 Video format: YouTube
		MetroBond - installation of end strip Description: Proper execution This unit not only gives your home a finished, aesthetic look, but also provides protection for the pediment from wind, snow and rain. Duration: 07:13 Video format: YouTube

IN Lately successfully began to replace the more expensive natural roofing, which she copies almost perfectly. Attracts developers and long service life composite material- up to fifty years old. But this will only happen if the new type of roofing is installed correctly and without errors. More on this later.

Raw materials

Naturally, first of all you need to purchase required amount the tiles themselves (given that the installation of the sheets is carried out with an overlap). It must be a material from one manufacturer, having one code and one series.

Roof tiles should be stored in a dry place with access fresh air(under a canopy or in a ventilated room). If the sheets are folded outside, be sure to cover them with plastic.

You will also need various additional elements (of the same thing, of course). These are planks, cornices, skates. To fasten these parts and the tile sheets themselves, you need special anodized nails coated with an anti-corrosion compound (they are often called rough nails).

• To make the sheathing, you will need bars of five by five centimeters.
• And to cover them - antiseptic and fire-retardant (fire-resistant) compounds.
• For the cornice, a board four centimeters thick is used.
• It is also necessary to prepare waterproofing (this can be foamed polyethylene on foil) and vapor barrier.

Tools

Let's stock up on the following tools:

• Hammers for driving nails - metal and plastic. You can also use a nail gun to finally secure the nails.
• A hacksaw designed for woodworking (to make a rafter system).
• A metal hacksaw for cutting sheets. It can also be metal scissors - manual or electric.
• A screwdriver and an electric drill.
• Tape measure for measuring work.

Laying technology

• It is worth remembering that composite sheets can be mounted on a pitched roof, the slope of which is from twelve to ninety degrees.
• When working with roof tiles, you need to act carefully and wear shoes with soft soles (for example, rubber boots). We work when there is no rain, at temperatures from plus six degrees.
• To prevent condensation from accumulating under the roof, we must provide ventilation ducts.

Useful tips and instructions for laying composite tiles are given in this video:

Composite tile roof installation diagram

• The first air supply channel is located between the thermal insulation and waterproofing layers. To do this, make the sheathing with bars five by five centimeters. The sheathing pitch is most often 3.7 centimeters (but may vary for products from different companies - read the instructions).
• The second channel for ventilation is located between the roof and the waterproofing: a counter-lattice is made from the same bars as above. By the way, the bars should be smooth, without differences. And not too thin - otherwise the roof will sag.
• The cornice board is nailed to the rafters, with holders attached to it on which the gutters will be installed. The waterproofing layer must be located above the eaves board. Next, we attach special cornice elements, making an overlap of ten centimeters. At the valley, boards are nailed on each side where the valley elements will be attached from bottom to top. The overlap during their installation is also ten centimeters.
• Next, you can proceed directly to installing the tiles in a checkerboard pattern. This is also done with an overlap, starting from the top (from the ridge).

If you need to cut a piece of sheet, never use a grinder (the edges will rust due to the damaged aluminum-zinc layer). Just a hacksaw or metal scissors - here suitable tool for cutting composite sheets.

• Nails (only special ones that cannot be replaced with ordinary self-tapping screws) are nailed to the end side of the sheet at an angle of forty-five degrees. First they use a metal hammer (putting nails on), then a plastic hammer or a pneumatic gun, which is faster. There are eight nails per square meter.
• It is not recommended to fix the nail with a metal hammer, as it may damage the anti-corrosion coating on the head. After installation, the nails are tinted to match the tiles and sprinkled with basalt chips (these materials are usually included with the tiles).
• The ridge elements are fixed to the upper bars of the sheathing. When the bottom layer of sheets is installed, at the same time firmly fix cornice strip. Where the ends are, the tiles are laid at an angle of ninety degrees. Having nailed the wind board, wind strips are attached to it.

Composite tiles are often confused with metal tiles. But it's absolutely different materials. And the laying (installation) of composite and metal tiles is also done differently.

Finally, we’ll tell you about the cost of installing composite tiles.

This video will tell you how to install composite tiles using materials from Metrotile as an example:

Cost of work and materials

The services of professional roofers in this case are not too cheap.

• So, if you only need to lay tiles, it will cost from eight euros per square meter. Together with thermal insulation and waterproofing work - from nine euros per square meter.
• Complete turnkey work, including rafters, counter-lattice and sheathing, will cost from eleven euros per square meter.
• If in rubles, then the price of laying (installing) composite tiles on a simple pitched roof will cost from 950 to 1300 rubles per square meter.
• And for a hip roof – from 1150 rubles per square meter.
• As for materials, the price of one square meter of tile sheet starts at about 450 rubles. Additional elements have a wide range of prices - each company has its own set of these parts.
  • Thus, various elements from the Metrotile company cost from 260 to 3,600 rubles.
  • A set consisting of paint and basalt coating of the same brand will cost about 600 rubles.
  • Nails (five kilograms in the amount of 1,900 pieces) will cost more than 3,000 rubles.

Even more useful information on laying composite tiles is presented in this video:

Composite tiles are lightweight, practical and beautiful material. Self-installation Composite roofing is much easier to complete than laying slate or corrugated sheets. Laying possible on pitched roofs with an inclination angle of 12ᵒ or more.

In addition to SNiP II-26-76 dated May 20, 2011, manufacturers have developed auxiliary instructions with recommendations and constructive solutions on installation. If the instructions on the material are followed, the factory warranty applies. How to do the installation yourself without voiding the warranty?

Installation of composite roofing

What is composite roofing and how to treat it

Composite tiles - new and unique in its own way roofing material combining practicality soft roof, strength and fire safety of metal sheet, noiselessness of stone, resistance to impact external environment, like polymers, the beauty and luxury of a natural tile roof and an affordable price.

The first manufacturer of the material is the Belgian company Metrotile, its products are still considered the best today. Later, other companies joined the production, including the Russian brand Techonikol, whose products are sold under the Luxard brand.

Structure of composite tiles

The most dangerous stage for a composite before its use is transportation.

Of course, composite is a fairly mechanically strong material, but at the same time fragile and can crack or chip at the edges. Therefore, the tiles in the back of the car must be folded very carefully, placing each row with spacers (fabric, boards).

Warehousing requirements:

1. It is best to store tiles in the cold season in dry, indoor areas with an air temperature of at least 5ᵒC.
2. In warm weather, this can be done under a canopy, that is, the composite is simply protected from the sun and precipitation.
3. It is best to store the tiles on factory pallets, where they are already laid, but if you do it yourself, you need wooden pallet and waterproof covering (tarpaulin, fiberglass).
4. You cannot light an open fire near storage areas; this applies not only to fires, but also to welding, cutting metal with a grinder, and so on. Sparks hitting the surface of the composite will leave marks on it in the form of black melted dots.
5. You can use household cleaning products to clean the surface. detergents without abrasive additives.

Check the manufacturer's markings

Features and procedure for installing tiles

In order for the roofing material to properly cover the roof, it is necessary to properly prepare the rafter system. In addition, you need to correctly lay out the composition of the tiles.

Installation tools and accessories

To install composite tiles, you need hand and power tools:

• two hacksaws - for metal and wood;
• metal scissors;
• plumber's hammer;
• mounting gun;
• battery or electric drill;
• stationary circular saw or grinder with a cutting disc for metal;
• metal scissors;
• metric tape;
• riveter;
• large and small bending machine;
• air gun for dowels 50 mm;
• template 370 mm;
• manual or electric guillotine.

Manual and electric tool for installation

Please note that an angle grinder with a grinding disc is not recommended for working with roofing composite.

In addition to tiles, various accessories are used for covering, such as:

• semicircular ridge;
• semicircular triple skate;
• steel cover of a semicircular ridge;
• T-shaped ridge element made of PVC;
• y-shaped element for hip roofs with small slopes 15-30;
• y-shaped element for hip roofs with large slopes of 30-45;
• PVC tip for semicircular ridge;
• rib ridge with an actual length of 1365 mm and a working length of 1265 mm;
• end strip;
• PVC plug for end strip left and right;
• single right end strip;
• adjoining the left and right sides;
• cornice, actual length 1365 mm, working length – 1265 mm;
• valley;
• apron.

Drawings and requirements for the rafter system

Rafter system and sheathing

Installation of the rafter system for composite roofing is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-26-76 dated May 20, 2011 of the Russian Federation. Wood is used to build rafters.

For correct assembly Local conditions are extremely important, that is, the amount of precipitation that falls in winter and the wind loads in a given area.

All this is taken into account when calculating the thickness of the beams:

• when creating a slope, push off from minimum value 12ᵒ. If the slope has a smaller angle, then lay waterproofing under the composite - atmospheric moisture will penetrate through the joints;
• as a rule, a smaller slope is possible only on certain sections of a complex (multi-slope) roof and is not allowed on total area;
• for waterproofing, use a film such as Yutakon, Nikofol and their analogues;
• Install the waterproofing film from the bottom up - this makes it easier to create overlaps. The overlap width must be at least 15 cm at vertical seams and 10 cm at horizontal seams;
• between the rafters (beams) create a sagging film of 1-2 cm;
• It is most convenient to do vertical joining (this increases the quality of the cut-off) along beams;
• fill the counter-lattice over the waterproofing cut-off - 50x50 mm bars are best suited for this;

• the lathing provides natural air circulation and eliminates the prerequisites for the formation of fungal mold;
• in the case when the slope of the slope is less than 20ᵒ, make a counter-lattice from a 50×75 mm board - this will increase the cross-section of the space for ventilation;
• in cases where a valley is used, a ventilation duct must be present between the thermal insulation layer and the cutoff.

Layout of sheathing around pipes

Installation of the rafter system

In the case where the pitch of the rafter legs does not exceed a meter (see Figure 4.1-2), use 50x50 mm bars. As the distance between the rafters increases, the vertical section increases, that is, in such cases, use a 50 mm thick board. Make sure that the installation moisture content of the wood does not exceed 20% of the dry weight of the material.

To install composite tiles, be sure to maintain a distance between the lower edges of the sheathing - it should be 370 mm. This parameter is important for the lock between composite joints. To make this easier, use a template as in Figure 4.2-1.

Using original tiles Metrobond produces an unregulated distance to the ridge (option A in the figure). In this case, the optimal length rafter leg there will be a number that is a multiple of 370, that is: A=370 mm - this is exactly the length of a full sheet of Metrobond composite. In Figure 4.2-1 there is callout II, which shows the method of fastening semicircular ridge profiles - they are mounted on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 130 mm.

Installing composite on the cornice

Finishing the cornice with tiles

When studying the manual for installing a composite roof with your own hands, pay attention to the numbering of points and the drawing:

1. First of all, install the 40mm thick cornice board.
2. Securely attach it to the rafters with self-tapping screws or nails.
3. Attach the gutter brackets to this board as shown in Image 4.3-1. In the case where a drain is not provided (callout II), install a condensate drip, as in image 4.3-2. In this case, the consumption of the cornice will double.
4. Fix the cornice element from the edge of the cornice.
5. Fixation is carried out with four self-tapping screws or nails.
6. Attach the remaining elements with an overlap of 100 mm.

Installation of a drip tray on a cornice strip

Be sure to make sure that the eaves board is protected by a waterproofing film (it is important that it does not slip or tear):

• here there should be an unhindered discharge of condensate (moisture) into the gutter;
• the drip line from the eaves must fall into the drain;
• there is a ventilation gap between the cornice and the film (marked with a dotted line on BK-1);
• remained in the cornice filing ventilation ducts(dashed line BK-2).

Roofing with composite tiles

Installation taking into account wind load (4.4-1-A)

Installation taking into account wind load (4.4-1-B)

Some nuances of composite installation:

1. Like any other covering, the composite is laid with an overlap from top to bottom, that is, the top panel always overlaps the bottom. It is much more convenient to start installation from the top, lifting each of the rows to place the lower panels under it. Fastening at the joint is carried out immediately through two panels.
2. It is very important to take into account the wind direction when fixing, as shown in Figures 4.4-1-A and 4.4-1-B. This load may be different in each location, therefore, install the composite in the direction of the wind so that it cannot undermine the edge of the panel. To give rigidity to the roof, lay the tiles in a checkerboard pattern with a lateral offset S. That is, more than three rows should not meet at the point of overlap.

Select the row offset S and overlap B, as in the figure, in accordance with the collection of the composite, the varieties of which are indicated in the table.

Dependence of fixation points on the composite brand

The locations of fixation – the points where nails should be driven in or screws should be tightened – depend on the collection of composite tiles. On top diagram the option with a left overlap is shown (the left sheet overlaps the right one). Hammer nails (screws) at an angle of 45ᵒ to the surface of the rafter leg.

Installing roof tiles on a ridge

Covering the ridge with composite accessories

And a few more tips for installing skates:

• among ridge accessories there are ribbed and semicircular elements;
• apply the rib profile with an overlap of 100 mm, and the semicircular profile with an overlap of 45 mm;
• to prevent moisture from getting between the covering and the ridge, lay a sealant (it can be from another manufacturer);
• ridge elements are also used for pitched roofs;
• fastening of such a profile is done with nails or self-tapping screws wooden profile rafter system.

Video: Installation of composite tiles

Laying composite over existing pavement

Installation of composite tiles is possible not only on the sheathing of a new building, but also on the old roof covering, which significantly facilitates and reduces repair costs, and also allows you to add an insulating layer to the roof. The composite can be laid on seam, corrugated and soft roofing.

• In the case of a seam roof, make a counter-lattice with a pitch of 50 cm from a bar with a cross-section of 5 * 5 cm. Next, carry out the lathing according to the instructions above, not forgetting about the under-roof waterproofing.
• When laying the composite on a corrugated slate or profiled sheet, a block with a height greater than the wave is fixed into the recess of the wave along the roof and a counter-lattice is mounted in increments of 50 cm. The lathing is installed on the structure.
• For a soft roof, they also make a counter-lattice, as for slate, and install the lathing according to the instructions above.

As a result, we can conclude that the quality of installing a composite roof with your own hands or by a hired worker depends entirely on the attentiveness of the roofer. If all the instructions from the manufacturer and SNiP II-26-76 are followed, then such a coating will last a long time and will never leak.