What is the normal generator voltage

What to do if the required voltage is not produced by the 2110 generator? No matter how carefully the owner takes care of his car, some kind of breakdown can still happen. And generator malfunctions also happen, even if it is a VAZ 2110.

Troubleshooting

A lot depends on the operation of the VAZ 2110 generator. If it malfunctions, what can start the battery? And when it stops providing the required voltage, you have to urgently figure out what the reason is. But already by external signs You can determine that the generator is causing problems:

The charging light starts flashing at low speeds;
there may be a burning smell in the cabin;
there are mechanical damages.

If visual inspection did not bring results, you need to:

remove the plastic cover from the generator;
check all electrical connections;
Unscrew the diode bridge, as well as the voltage regulator relay with brushes.

Diodes are checked with a special tester. When they operate normally, the current will only flow in one direction. If the current flows in two directions or the diodes do not pass it at all, then the reason has been found.

The cause of poor performance may be the belt. If it is worn out, it can be seen immediately. If the generator winding “flies”, it is better to entrust the solution to this problem to a specialist.

What malfunctions can occur in the generator?

What could be the problem with the generator when, when you turn on the ignition, the light flashes or does not turn on at all and the control devices do not function? You should check to see if the fuse located in the mounting block is ok. If there is a break in the power supply, the following may occur:

wire “O” with wires from mounting block to devices;
there was a breakdown of the “GP” wire with the wires from the ignition switch to this unit.

When the switch does not work due to breakdowns, it is enough to replace only the contact part that has become unusable.

If accumulator battery turns out to be discharged, then the generator voltage will not give the required figure.

And the reason may lie in the fact that the control lamp has burned out, or perhaps the cartridge contacts are not pressed sufficiently against the printed circuit board. In this case, the lamp or faulty contacts are replaced.

MozgoveD wrote:

Vadim wrote:
The density of a battery's electrolyte is directly proportional to its charge. Battery charging can be controlled not only by current, but also by electrolyte density. As soon as the density reaches 1.27, the battery is charged.
Another thing is that on a dead battery, when charging, the density may no longer rise to 1.27. Like on my old one - 1.23, and even though I charged it, it didn’t rise higher. On scoop batteries, the density could be increased by adding a more concentrated electrolyte - after holding for 1-2 hours and charging. If the plates had not fallen off before, it often helped.
With modern batteries, such a trick will no longer work.

yur_capricorn wrote:

Quote:

What difference does it make where to measure?
It seems like the battery and generator should be connected in parallel?
It's much easier to measure on a battery than on a gene

Wow! :? Parallel or parallel, but the contact resistance of the contacts, the oxide of the contacts is mass??? The mass goes to the battery through the engine.
Do you want to find a problem or not?
It’s easier to take it to the service center...

Ananieff wrote:

Quote:

My specifications say: 13.5-14.5V without load. 13-14V under load.

There are nuances... Load load... There are also engine speeds...
For example, the battery begins to charge only at medium engine speeds; at idle it is not charged. And this is the load with a discharged battery.
And what’s more, the generator begins to fully produce its parameters only at medium engine speeds (and higher).

Good luck! :wink:

Well, first of all, if...
As for the density, I don’t understand why at all... The density of the battery seems to have nothing to do with the generator voltage...
Regarding resistance... well, yes... the voltage may be lower at the battery terminals than at the generator terminals. But it cannot change nonlinearly. Those. for example, if the generator is 15.2, then the battery is 14.2. And at a speed of 14.2 - on the battery it is 13.2.
I think it’s hardly possible for the voltage on the generator to rise by 1 V, and on the battery to drop by 1 V.
Regarding services - yes. The people working there are competent. But for some reason I am always unlucky. For example, changing the gearbox linkage, or changing the oil and filter - they can, but diagnosing an old injector, calibrating the flow meter, finding air leaks - this is not... Somehow I’ve already gotten used to the idea that you need to do old cars yourself.. .
Regarding the troubles - well, first you need to understand that it exists, troubles - then... And if there is, then does it interfere? For example, if under these conditions the battery charges normally, then I think intervention is inappropriate...
Regarding speed and charging...
I think that the battery does not know how to detect engine speed at all. If it is given enough voltage to charge, it charges. If the voltage is lower than the charging voltage, it gives up. However, I read somewhere that they want to start equipping them with chips to prevent deep discharge...

The malfunction is determined by the charge indicator lamp and the voltage supplied to the on-board network. After turning the ignition key and turning it on, the charge indicator light on the instrument panel lights up. This indicates that the initial excitation circuit of the generator is working properly. After the engine starts and the generator begins to operate, a positive signal is applied to the output of the generator to which the wire from the signal lamp is connected and the lamp goes out. If there is active resistance in the circuit from the battery to the instrument panel, resulting in a decrease in voltage at the panel's power terminals, the charge lamp begins to burn at half-glow due to the potential difference at the lamp terminals. This occurs due to the passage of current from the generator through the lamp. In this case, the generator malfunction does not affect the battery charge or may not be charged at all.

To check, you need to check the voltage at the generator terminals with the engine speed of about 2000 rpm and the high beam headlights on. At normal operation The generator must produce a voltage to the battery within the range of 13.5 - 14.5 V. The voltage is checked at the battery terminals with the high beam headlights on, and it must be taken into account that the generator produces the rated voltage at average speeds of about 2000 - 2500 rpm. To the main generator malfunctions car damage includes lack of battery charge, increased or decreased output voltage, as well as destruction of bearings. If the voltage is above 14.5V, the voltage regulator is faulty or the contact in its connections is broken. If the regulator is installed outside the generator, contacts in the excitation circuit may be damaged ( characteristic malfunction for gazelles with engine 402). When troubleshooting, when the voltage is sufficient without load, and when the headlights are turned on, it drops below normal, you need to pay attention to the tension of the drive belt, as well as its position in the generator pulley, when V-belt. The belt tension is determined by pressing the belt with a force of approximately 8 kg, while the deflection should be 8 - 10 mm. With low tension, the belt slips, and with excessive tension, there is a large load on the bearings, which can lead to their damage. It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the generator pulley with a poly V-belt; if the bottom of the pulley is shiny, it means that the belt or pulley is completely worn out and requires replacement. Weak tension or wear of the belt can be determined by sharply pressing the gas pedal, while the voltage drops sharply, and with further operation it can be restored. You also need to check the condition of the contact at terminal 30. If a visual inspection does not produce results, then the generator is faulty. Most often with this generator malfunction The rectifier bridge diode fails, but a break or contact failure in the connection between the stator winding and the diode rectifier is possible. Lack of voltage supplied by the generator, that is, when the voltage at terminal 30 is equal to the battery voltage, is possible due to a malfunction of the voltage regulator, a break

VAZ 2114 is equipped with an electric generator 94.3701, which is installed on injection power units with injection for modern cars series "Samara" and "Samara 2". This is a unit with alternating current, three phases, right rotation (projection from the drive), it has a built-in rectifier unit and a voltage regulator.

Design and features of using the VAZ 2114 generator

A car electric generator is a synchronous, three-phase electrical machine alternating current with electromagnetic excitation. It converts the mechanical energy of a running automotive power plant into electrical energy, necessary for the operation of electronic systems and other devices and equipment that consume electricity when the engine is running. This transformation uses a rotating magnetic field.

Main working parts car generator This:

rotor - the moving part of the device
stator - stationary part of an electrical machine

The stator is assembled from pieces of sheet iron that are insulated from each other. Inside the stator, the armature winding of the generator is laid in grooves.

The rotor core is machined from a solid piece of electromechanical steel. Pole pieces are assembled from sheet steel. Excitation coils are mounted on the poles and are powered from an external DC source.

To protect against external influence there is a body. It contains the main working parts of an automobile electrical unit. Available:

bearings - the rotor rotates on them;
impeller;
diode bridge;
relay regulator;
The pulley is the drive; the belt is put on it.

The front and rear covers of the generator, which make up its body, are firmly bolted to the starter, ensuring its immobility. The rear bearing is firmly mounted on the rotor shaft and covered with a bushing. The front bearing is pressed into the front cover of the electrical unit and can only be replaced together with it. The shaft itself rotates on bearings; the lubricant in them, filled at the factory, does not change.

The winding is in the stator slots, assembled according to the “star” circuit. Moreover, the wires are brought out to a common point.

On the other hand, the phase wires are connected to a diode bridge. It contains six diodes made of silicon, also called “gates”. There are three positive and three negative. They belong to the poles and are pressed into aluminum plates shaped like a horseshoe. There are also three more diodes on the plate. The excitation winding when starting the power plant is powered through them. The diode bridge is fixed on the back cover. There is also a capacitor that protects against sudden surges.

There is a warning light on the instrument panel that lights up when the ignition is turned on. At this moment, voltage is supplied through the light bulb from the battery to the excitation winding. After turning on the power plant, the winding is powered by additional diodes and the light should go out. If after starting this does not happen and the light continues to glow, it means the VAZ 2114 generator is not working.

Features of using the unit 94.3701 on the VAZ 2114

The electric unit must not be allowed to operate with the battery disconnected. This causes voltage surges with possible damage to generator components and vehicle systems.
Make sure that the plus of the battery is always connected to the terminal of the electrical unit, and the minus to ground. If you mix up the contacts, a stronger current will flow through the diodes and they will suffer a breakdown.
Under no circumstances should you test a car electrical unit for a “spark”; the diodes will instantly break due to a surge in electricity. It is necessary to check only with the help of special meters or on a stand.
The valves cannot be controlled with a voltage greater than 12 V or with a megger, this may lead to a short circuit.
The car's electrical wiring should only be checked with a megger or voltage greater than 12 V with the electrical unit turned off.
If it is necessary to electrically weld components or body parts, it is necessary to mandatory disconnect the wires from all terminals and connection points of the electric generator and battery.

Checking the VAZ 2114 generator and typical malfunctions

Before you check the generator for the VAZ 2114, you need to find out what faults can be detected during testing and how these faults manifest themselves.

Failures that occur during operation

When the ignition is turned on, the light on the dashboard does not light up and the main instruments do not work.
The control lamp did not light up after turning the ignition key and does not light up after starting. The battery is low.
When the machine is running, the light glows brightly or dimly. The battery is low.
The light glows brightly when the car is running. The battery is overcharged.
Increased noise level during operation of the electric generator.

Checking the VAZ 2114 generator with the car engine running

In preparation for checking the unit, you need to buy a special measuring device for monitoring automobile electrical network. The control procedure is as follows:

insert the ignition key, turn it and check that all warning lights are on at full strength;
start the engine - the control lamp should go out, if it glows brightly or not at full strength, therefore there is a problem in the generator circuit;
when the engine warms up to operating temperature, turn on all electrical appliances to create maximum load;
to connect the meter in voltmeter mode, read in the operating manual what voltage the VAZ 2114 generator should produce at maximum load on the on-board network;
set 3500 rpm;
connect the meter to the battery and check the voltage; if the device shows less than 13 volts, then the battery is discharged and you need to look for a breakdown. This may be a poorly tensioned belt, a failure in the regulator, worn out brushes and oxidized contacts;
turn off all devices as much as possible and find out how many volts the VAZ 2114 generator should produce in this mode. With consumers turned off, when measuring with a battery probe, the reading should be at least 14.7 volts; if it is much more, then the regulator on the unit must be changed;
without turning off the car, listen to how noisy the VAZ 2114 generator is; if the noise level is increased, it means the bearings are broken. One of the reasons is an overtightened drive belt;
turn off the car, let it cool and check how the belt is tensioned by pressing on it with your finger, the deflection is one, maximum one and a half centimeters.

Checking the elements of the unit and its maintenance

Deep instrumental monitoring of the VAZ 2114 generator includes diagnostics diode bridge, regulator, stator and rotor windings using a probe (this is a 12 V light bulb with a power of 3 W):

the diodes used are one-way, the lamp should not light up, if it lights up, then the diode is broken;
when the regulator is checked, the probe connected to the brushes should go out if it increases to 16 volts; if it continues to light or, conversely, does not light at any voltage, then this indicates a malfunction of the regulator;
By monitoring the windings, they look for a short circuit or its absence. If a short circuit is detected, the stator must be replaced.

In order to be confident in the performance of your generator, you need to check it every 10 thousand kilometers, and regularly service it between checks, that is:

keep surfaces clean;
check the mounting of the generator to the engine and the reliability of all terminal connections with wires;
check the tension and condition of the belt;
check the condition of the bearings by ear and when rotating the pulley with the belt removed.

As a recommendation, experienced drivers advise those who constantly drive long distances to have an alternator drive belt in the trunk as an emergency supply. And the driver himself can take a master class on how to replace it. A belt break is a common malfunction and it happens according to the law of the road in a deserted area. Unfortunately, the car cannot move without a belt. So the reserve will be useful.