DIY barrel drawings. How are wooden barrels made? The last stage is sanding the wood

Making a wooden barrel with your own hands will allow you not only to save money, but also to get a high-quality elegant product. Wooden barrels were used by our ancestors for pickles, making alcoholic beverages and storing water, which proved their versatility. Therefore, they are still successfully used to this day. How to make a wooden barrel so that it is durable and does not leak? What tools and skills are required to make a barrel at home?

If you are determined to achieve your goal and are not afraid that you will have to modify the product to the desired state, then you can make your dream come true and make a wooden barrel yourself. Cooperation is a difficult profession that came to us from past centuries. Today there are few masters of this craft, and there are even fewer highly qualified specialists in the manufacture of barrels, so barrels on free sale are rare, and not everyone can afford the cost of the product.

Tools

To make your first barrel or small barrel, you need to prepare a place in which it will be convenient to work, tools and suitable material. In addition to the carpentry kit needed to make a barrel with your own hands, you need to purchase cooper’s tools:

• a carpentry workbench adapted for the production of barrels;
• long jointer and circular humpback plane;
• a device for planing edges on boards, from which a barrel will be assembled;
• equipment for tightening rivets (post gate, chain tie and frame gate machine);
• staple, plow, staple;
• templates and patterns of our own production;
• clamps made of wood, metal (for assembling the frame of the barrel);
• Morning mat - a device that allows you to cut a morning groove into which the bottom part is inserted.

You need to understand that it is quite difficult to purchase these tools, wood and devices on the market, since almost all coopers make machines and layouts themselves, taking into account their height. This is done by trial and error, no instructions will help.

What you need to know

The main difference between cooperage products is the assembly from pre-prepared wooden planks(rivets). The size and shape of the barrel depend entirely on the pre-prepared boards, the configuration of which is set by the cooper. And the initial quality of wooden barrels depends entirely on the wood chosen. For this reason, it is not enough for a master to have thorough mastery of the instrument. You need to know the intricacies of each type of wood from which wooden products will be made.

An experienced craftsman will not make a barrel for honey from oak blanks, because he knows that in such a container the honey will quickly acquire a completely different aroma and darken. But it is impossible to find a replacement for oak barrels for aging wines and cognac.

The second element is a hoop that tightens all the components of the barrel. It is thanks to the hoop that water does not seep through the joints between the boards. It can be made of metal or wood. As the experience of craftsmen shows, metal hoops are much stronger, and less time is spent on manufacturing than wooden hoops. But some masters still prefer wooden hoop, giving the barrel a more beautiful appearance.

Details and principle of product manufacturing

Many people believe that becoming an amateur cooper is very difficult, and dreams never come true. But if you are not used to retreating from your decisions, then you need to decide which option will be your first job.

There are 3 types of products: conical, cylindrical and parabolic. Each corresponds to a certain type of rivets:

1. Products made in the shape of a quadrangle, the long sides of which have the shape of a parabola, are used for dishes with convex edges: barrels or kegs.
2. The cylinder-shaped design is simple. It is easy to make and connect with hoops of the same diameter, but when the wood in such a structure dries out, the rivets cease to perform their functions. This is the main reason why such containers are practically not manufactured.
3. The shape of an elongated trapezoid allows you to get durable dishes when stuffing rivets. Therefore, this type of product is often suitable for making tubs, tubs and other utensils.

As an experimental sample, it is better to focus on a simple small barrel.

Many people are interested in how a regular tub is made. The tub is the simplest cooper's product; having achieved results in its manufacture, you can move on to more complex species dishes, for example, make a wooden barrel with your own hands.

The principle of creating a product consists of the following stages:

• production of blanks;
• assembling dishes;
• Finishing work.

The reliability of the structure will depend on the quality of the riveting blank, so the most suitable are blanks from logs of sawn wood, chopped with an ax. For barrels, the most common wood choice is oak, as it splits easily in a radial direction. The process of preparing rivets from different breeds trees are practically the same; a single-row or double-row knockout method is used. For large logs, a two-row method is used, and for thin logs, only a single-row method is used.

The procedure for cutting out rivets is as follows:

1. The ridge must be carefully split in half so that the split line runs strictly through the center of the workpiece.
2. Each block must be split in two to obtain 4 equal parts.
3. Next, you need to split the wood for the workpiece in half again to make 8 equal parts. Usually for small logs this is quite enough. It is 1/8 that will become the riveting blank.
4. If the ridge is thick, double-row cutting is used, i.e. each of the 8 parts splits into 2 equal parts along the growth rings.
5. The resulting logs must be split in the radial direction. The result will be 1-2 blanks of smaller size and 2-5 for blanks of larger parameters.
6. Next you need to cut off the wedge-shaped protrusions and young wood from the bark side. Only after this can the workpiece be dried in an open area or resort to artificial drying.

Manufacturing of rivets

In order to make rivets from the prepared material, you must first prepare drawings and a template for a specific product in accordance with the desired shape. To get ready-made rivets, you will need:

1. Perform markup.
2. Make a rough cut of each of the workpieces. Namely, round the outer surface, bevel the edges with an ax.
3. Perform finishing using a planer, constantly monitoring the result with a template.
4. Plane inner part blanks with a humpbacked scraper.
5. Trim the narrow edges and then level their surface with a jointer.

In the process of making barrels, the cooper has to make the tightening hoops himself. The easiest way to get a hoop is from steel tape. To do this, you will need to determine the diameter of the container and add twice the width of the strip to the resulting figure. Next, using a hammer, you need to bend the tape into a ring, drill 2 holes and secure them with rivets. To make a small barrel you will need 2 hoops that will correspond to the diameter of the upper and lower parts of the product.

Bottom assembly and installation

1. Sand the edges of the boards, fix them on the workbench and divide the radius into 6 parts.
2. Within the circle, mark the locations of the studs.
3. Pull out the boards. Drill holes in the edges and drive wooden or metal pins into them.
4. Connect all the elements tightly and secure with pins, after which you can plan the bottom.
5. Cut out the bottom, leaving a small margin.
6. Remove the chamfer with a straight plow and knock down the hoop, loosening the fastening of the rivets.
7. Insert the bottom into the morning and turn the tub upside down.
8. Set siege to the hoop.

All that remains is to make a lid for the tub and, after checking the design for strength, begin to use the container. If you like the work done, it makes sense to continue working on making barrels.

Preparation of moonshine and alcohol for personal use
absolutely legal!

After the collapse of the USSR, the new government stopped the fight against moonshine. Criminal liability and fines were abolished, and the article banning the production of alcohol-containing products at home was removed from the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. To this day, there is not a single law that prohibits you and me from engaging in our favorite hobby - preparing alcohol at home. This is evidenced by the Federal Law of July 8, 1999 No. 143-FZ “On Administrative Responsibility legal entities(organizations) and individual entrepreneurs for offenses in the field of production and circulation of ethyl alcohol, alcoholic and alcohol-containing products" (Collected Legislation of the Russian Federation, 1999, No. 28, Art. 3476).

Excerpt from Federal Law RF:

“The effect of this Federal Law does not apply to the activities of citizens (individuals) producing products containing ethyl alcohol for purposes other than sale.”

Moonshining in other countries:

In Kazakhstan in accordance with the Code of the Republic of Kazakhstan on Administrative Offenses dated January 30, 2001 N 155, the following liability is provided. Thus, according to Article 335 “Manufacture and sale of home-made alcoholic beverages”, illegal production of moonshine, chacha, mulberry vodka, mash and other alcoholic beverages for the purpose of sale, as well as the sale of these alcoholic beverages, entails a fine in the amount of thirty monthly calculation indices with confiscation of alcoholic beverages , apparatus, raw materials and equipment for their manufacture, as well as money and other valuables received from their sale. However, the law does not prohibit the preparation of alcohol for personal use.

In Ukraine and Belarus things are different. Articles No. 176 and No. 177 of the Code of Ukraine on Administrative Offenses provide for the imposition of fines in the amount of three to ten tax-free minimum wages for the production and storage of moonshine without the purpose of sale, for the storage of devices* for its production without the purpose of sale.

Article 12.43 repeats this information almost word for word. “Production or acquisition of strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), storage of apparatus for their production” in the Code of the Republic of Belarus on Administrative Offenses. Point No. 1 states: “Manufacturing individuals strong alcoholic drinks (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), as well as storage of devices* used for their production - entail a warning or a fine of up to five basic values with confiscation of the specified drinks, semi-finished products and devices.”

*Purchase moonshine stills for home use it is still possible, since their second purpose is to distill water and obtain components for natural cosmetics and perfumes.

Cooperation is one of the most difficult crafts, so the answer to the question is how to make a barrel with your own hands, it won’t be easy either. This is a very labor-intensive process that requires the performer to have a decent professional level and availability large quantity tools for wood processing.

Types of barrels by purpose and wood for their manufacture

Before you get interested, how to make a barrel, you need to decide what you need it for. The choice of material and manufacturing method depend on this. This type of container is manufactured for the following purposes:

1. ​for fermentation, aging and storage of spirits, wine and beer;
2. ​ for preparing and storing pickles;
3. ​for storing dry products;
4. ​for storing honey, etc.

Beverage barrels have two bottoms and a hole for inserting taps. The same type of container, but without holes, was previously used for long-term storage some products (for example, corned beef).

For other purposes, barrels with one bottom are sufficient - they are also called tubs. They are covered with a lid or a circle on top for oppression. These parts are much easier to make than the bottom. Make a wooden barrel possible from such wood species as:

1. oak;
2. ash;
3. ​ cherry;
4. Linden;
5. alder and others.

Wood of the first three types is the most universal. It is equally suitable for containers for any purpose. However, the “champion” should be recognized oak barrel, which, being strong, reliable and durable, provides ideal conditions for storing food.

Oak products have antiseptic properties, release tannins into alcoholic drinks, improving their taste, and also easily withstand the effects of brines when preparing pickles. Ash and cherry are the first “substitutes” of oak wood. They have similar, but weaker properties. Therefore, we will consider, . Making containers from other types of wood, such as linden, has no fundamental differences except for some nuances finishing.

Oak barrel for honey

Rules for procuring material for barrels

Before you start doing DIY wooden barrel, should be prepared and prepared quality material. The wood must be mature, healthy, and free from defects (knots, cross-layers)

The best time for procurement of material is late autumn or winter, when natural humidity wood is at a minimum level.

It is unlikely that you will be able to meet all the requirements. For example, for making staves for wine and cognac barrels highest category quality, the process of drying and aging wood takes 6–8 years, but if you are only concerned with how to make a barrel for yourself, adhere to the following rules:

1. Before drying, the logs are split into pieces of the required thickness;
2. ​ drying is carried out in a closed area sun rays place - under a canopy, in a barn, etc.;
3. The duration of drying depends on many factors and can take 1–3 months;
4. The residual moisture content of the wood before treatment should be about 25%.

Accelerating the drying process using hot air and other methods usually leads to a deterioration in the quality of the wood and its properties in finished product. The advice also takes into account the need to condition the processed rivets before assembling the product. As a result, the residual moisture content of the wood should be 17–20%.

Making rivets and tools for this

For those interested make your own oak barrel The most difficult part will be making the rivets. The process of marking and chopping logs is clearly presented in the following figure

As a result, you will receive blanks of conical cross-section, from which, after drying, they are made into rivets. This part has a complex shape, so its production places high demands on the skill of the performer. The main dimensions of the barrel and its elements, depending on the volume, are as follows:

This table will help you figure out how to make a barrel, and the drawing - to understand how to give the rivets the desired shape

Tool

and what tools you will need for this. The curvature of the sides should provide the barrel with a taper of about 8°, due to which the product becomes resistant to loads from the outside and inside. To process the surfaces of rivets, a plane, jointer, sherhebel, plow and other tools of this group are used. In this case, the outer surface of the part should have a slightly convex shape, and the inner surface should have a concave shape.

Barrel capacity, l	Height, mm	Center diameter, mm	Diameter at the edges, mm	Riveting width, mm	Rivet thickness, mm	Thickness of bottoms, mm

The accuracy and quality of planing are regularly checked using a template. To calculate the number of rivets, the longest circumference (at the center of the barrel) should be divided by the width of the workpieces. This way you will also determine the exact and uniform size of the part. The process of making rivets can be seen in the video.

After this, the answer to the question of how to make an oak barrel with your own hands, will become clearer as you tackle the toughest challenge.

Making bottom shields and tools for this

To make bottom shields, 4–6 planks are used, connected to each other with wooden or stainless steel pins. Drawings, or, more precisely, instructions, of this process are given here

But at first we will limit ourselves to only connecting the planks, since other operations are carried out taking into account the dimensions of the assembled barrel body. We just have to do the following:

1. draw a circle on the shield: its diameter should correspond to the size of the bottom of the barrel, to which is added twice the depth of the morning groove (this is 6 mm);
2. perform filing along the contour using a bow saw or a circular saw;
3. chamfer around the entire circumference so that the bottom fits into the morning groove.

In a similar way (adjusted for a larger or smaller diameter), the lid and the circle for oppression are made. If you intend make your own barrel for drinks that have two bottoms, you should remember that such products are made according to individual measurements for the top and bottom. You will see the result of your efforts only after you collect all the details into a single whole. Assembling the barrel is the most enjoyable stage of its manufacture. We will describe how this process is carried out below.

Barrel assembly procedure

The following information about how to make a barrel, there will be recommendations for its assembly. For this, besides wooden parts, you will need metal hoops - assembly and permanent. The first of them serves to set and fix the complete frame. Permanent hoops are divided into morning and neck (umbilical) hoops. They provide tightening of the rivets. To make a wooden barrel from the existing set of parts, you will need to perform the following operations:

1. using clamps, fix two, or preferably three, rivets on the assembly hoop;
2. Fill the space between them with the remaining parts;
3. put on a neck hoop on the fixed side;
4. ​ steam the loose side of the frame and tighten the rivets using a collar (noose), after which put a morning and neck hoop on this side of the frame;
5. from the side of the assembly hoop, cut a morning groove to install the bottom;
6. ​ cut and process the first bottom, and then put it in place;
7. On the same side, install a morning hoop, which finally fixes the bottom;
8. ​ carry out finishing treatment of the internal and external surfaces of the barrel body;
9. ​carry out hardening (firing) from the inside;
10. Repeat the operation of installing the bottom on the opposite side.

The initial stage of assembly can be seen in the video

.

Another video

will give an idea of ​​subsequent operations. However, in this case, an allowance should be made for the fact that professionals work here who have their own techniques and perform many actions automatically. Perhaps not everything will work out the first time, but how to make your own oak barrel, you will definitely learn.

For barrels with a capacity of up to 50 liters, four hoops are used; for larger containers, their number is increased to six. They are made from steel strip 30–50 mm wide and 1.5–2 mm thick. The diameter of the hoop is determined by measuring the location of its installation on the body of the product. Double the bandwidth is added to the resulting value. This is necessary to connect the strip into a ring using rivets made of malleable steel wire with a cross-section of 4–5 mm.

Answering the question, how to make a barrel, it is necessary to mention that one edge inside the hoop requires flaring. This gives it the necessary taper for a tight fit to the frame rivets when putting on and setting down. Cutting the morning groove is done using special tool, which in professional slang is called a morning party. The procedure is somewhat reminiscent of opening a round tin can.

In an article about how to make a barrel, we cannot fail to mention the hardening of the product. Most often this is achieved by firing. This ensures increased wood resistance to moisture, organic acids and other influences. It is most convenient to fire a body without a bottom using a burner such as a portable forge.

Surface finishing and drilling of holes for taps (chops) are done before firing.

Checking the barrel and preparing it for use

Our advice on how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, completes with information on how to check its tightness and prepare the product for use. To search for leaks, the barrel is filled with water. If it is still leaking within an hour of filling, you will need to take steps to seal it. For this, there is a proven “old-fashioned” method using cattail, which is also called barrel grass. They use it to caulk leakage areas. Another method of sealing is waxing using natural wax.

Each master has his own answers to the question, how to make a barrel, and more professional secrets, which would require writing an entire monograph to reveal. Therefore, you will have to repeatedly seek help from experts in the most different nuances barrel making process. By the way, the literary hero Robinson Crusoe was never able to cope with this task. When you achieve the tightness of the product, all that remains is to prepare the barrel for use.

Answering the question, how to make an oak barrel, you should also give recommendations for soaking it. Most often this is done using ordinary water. The procedure takes up to 10 days with fluid changes every two to three days. However, for barrels intended for spirits, soaking lasts from one month to six months using alcohol-containing liquids with an alcohol content of 18–55%. In this article we have tried to answer basic questions regarding how to make a barrel. We hope you find this information useful.

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, drawings and detailed description on production.

The figure shows a section of a barrel:

1. Lid.
2. Small hoop.
3. Boards (rivets).
4. Big hoop.
5. Bottom.

The manufacturing process of the product in question can be divided into several stages.

MATERIAL SELECTION

The most common material is oak. Oak barrels are good for aging alcohol and storing pickles for the winter. You can also use cherry, mulberry, linden, aspen or ash.

CALCULATION OF THE DESIGN

Any design is determined by the following dimensions:

Height (H) – 600 (mm)
small diameter (d) – 420 (mm)
large diameter(D) – 465 (mm)
number of rivets (n) – 20
angle of inclination of the side faces to the center of the regular polyhedron (φ) – 360/20/2 = 9°

Using geometric constructions we obtain the dimensions of the riveting.

Reference:
To significantly facilitate assembly, it is advisable to make the rivets at the top and bottom thicker than in the center by 1/5. If the thickness of the riveting in the center is 10 (mm), then at the edges it will be 10 + 10/5 = 12 (mm).

PREPARATION OF MATERIAL

The lower part of the trunk, sawn into logs, is well suited for blanks. Chocks of the required length must be split into boards in the direction of the grain. Send the prepared boards to dry in a ventilated area for a period of two months.

Reference:
To ensure that the boards are well-ventilated, it is better to fold them in a checkerboard pattern.

MANUFACTURING HOOPS

Hoops can be made from hot-rolled tool strip 3 x 30 (mm). Perfect option, if the strip is bent by , but it can also be done manually. Drill two holes and connect the ends of the hoop with rivets, as shown in the figure.

BOTTOM ASSEMBLY

We will assemble the bottom from boards and slats. We mill grooves in the boards along the entire length of the end surface. We will insert the planks into the grooves and press the boards together.

From the resulting shield, cut out the bottom of the estimated diameter.

We grind the end surface at a slight angle.

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, the drawings are at hand, all the parts are made, you can start assembling the product:

1. We assemble rivets around the perimeter of the small hoop, using small homemade clamps.
2. After inserting the last rivet, push the hoop as far as possible towards the center of the barrel length.
3. Reheat in hot water for 15...20 (min) lower rivets.
4. Place the prepared structure inside a large hoop, preferably on a flat surface.
5. We tighten the structure with twine and move the large ring to the center of the barrel.

6. We continue to tighten the structure with twine, after the rivets are completely pulled together, we put a small hoop on top of them.
7. The frame is assembled and must be burned from the inside using any of the proposed methods: gas-burner; blowtorch; small fire.
8. Align the edges of the barrel.
9. Loosen the lower metal ring, insert the bottom into the grooves of the rivets, and push the small metal hoop back to its original position.
10. Do the same with the lid.
11. Check the product for leaks and, if necessary, seal the cracks with barrel grass.
12. Sand the outer surface of the product and coat it thin layer beeswax.
13. If the barrel is made of oak, it must be washed with water until the drained liquid becomes clear. This procedure can take up to two weeks.

An oak barrel is a great thing for a person. You can pickle vegetables in it, make wine, moonshine, and cognac. At worst, just sit until it dawns on you, as some do, a great idea. It is not for nothing that in the old days the making of barrels was the domain of real craftsmen. We continue to tell you about things that you can master in your dacha. Next up is cooperage.

Unlike many endangered professions, such as saddler, lamplighter or carriage maker, coopers are still in demand in the 21st century. The production of tubs, barrels and decorative bar elements is now on stream. Beer and wine containers are manufactured industrially - spacious workshops, computer quality control, wholesale supplies. The cost, depending on the volume, ranges from several hundred to tens of thousands of rubles.

But, of course, the Russian person’s craving for things made with my own hands, nothing can win. Therefore, if you decide to make the barrel of your dreams yourself, we can only advise you! Follow the recommendations below - and any Diogenes will thank you!
So where does the barrel start?

Tree selection

Of course, you'll need oak first. Moreover, not the first one that comes across, but more or less mature, with a trunk diameter of 40-60 cm. Some specimens can be rejected even at the inspection stage. Thus, the characteristic bumps on the trunk indicate that the giant is infected with tobacco rot.

We also “weed out” twisted and knotty trees. In cooperage, only “sprat” is used - the first 4 meters of the trunk, the rest can be safely turned into fuel for the barbecue. Yes, if you can’t cut down the tree you like, you can always buy a similar one at the nearest sawmill.

Manufacturing of rivets

Now a little theory. The barrel consists of wooden parts, rivets, tightly fitted to each other and tightened with metal hoops. And the final quality of the entire product directly depends on how accurately the manufacturing technology of these elements was followed.

First of all, decide on the dimensions of the future barrel. Its height will affect the length of the riveting itself (it should be 2.5–3 cm longer).

Have you chosen your size? Cut the previously prepared oak round timber into it. It’s good to have a hydraulic splitter on your farm. Well, if not, the oak log splits into sectors old-fashioned method, using wedges. The result should be 8 radially split ingots.

Now we cut off the core and soft “white” fabric into circular saw. From the resulting blanks we plan out even boards of equal thickness using a surface planer.

Ready? Now... stack all this beauty in stacks somewhere under a canopy. And leave it for at least a few months. Or better yet, for a year - they don’t make a good oak barrel in an hour☺. During this time, the sun and wind, without creating unnecessary stress on the wood, will remove excess moisture from it. For now, you can start growing grapes (for the Moscow region, by the way, there are excellent varieties, we’ll definitely tell you about them someday). When the workpieces dry, you can continue. Using a jigsaw, give the boards the correct cigar-shaped shape, where the thickening will be only 0.8–1 cm wider than the ends.

The inner edge of the workpieces is trimmed in the middle with a curved plow. Less than a millimeter is enough, and when necessary, the rivets will bend into right place. We give the outer edge the shape of an arc, the curvature of which is determined by a special pattern. Its radius depends on the radius of the barrel being manufactured. The tool is easy to make yourself. The result should be a product the same as in the picture.

On average, you will need from 25 to 30 staves per barrel.

Making a hoop

When the rivets are prepared, you can start making hoops. You will need a narrow strip of 2-3 mm iron, slightly longer than the circumference of the frame.

Twist it into a ring and secure it at the ends with rivets. The hoop is almost ready. Flare lightly with a hammer inner side– and can be put on the frame. For a small barrel you will need two pairs of hoops. Not less! What if some ring can't withstand the fermentation of your beer?

While you are working with iron, make a couple more metal staples. They will later serve as “clothespins”.

Assembling the barrel

The rivets are prepared, the hoops are ready. It's time to collect it all in a pot-bellied barrel. Take the finished ring and secure the ends of two or three rivets in it with clothespins in random places. The design will resemble a stool. In this position, fill the entire perimeter of the hoop with rivets. When the last board is in place, hammer the metal belt to fit the parts more tightly.

But before putting on the second hoop, the wood will have to be heated and steamed. It's done like this. We bring our semi-finished product to Fresh air and install it with the “socket” facing up. A small metal urn filled with wood chips is placed inside. We light a “fire” in it. While the fire is burning, wet the wood generously with water. This will keep it from catching fire and add flexibility to the boards. After half an hour of this “bath”, throw a noose on the end free from the hoop and pull it quietly with a winch. There is no rush in this place. The path to the finish line can take from 40 minutes to 3-4 hours, but any broken rivet will immediately return you to the beginning of the distance.

As soon as the wooden fan closes, immediately stuff the hoop. Just don’t forget the old Bondar law: “You can’t knock on the same place twice with a hammer.” In simple words When lowering the hoop, apply only one blow to each place. Under no circumstances hit there two or three times - you will split the wood.
When the metal belts are in place, the frame of the barrel ends up. The internal cavity is leveled with a special scraper and sanded with sandpaper.

And now another trial by fire. So that the tree gets used to its new form, it needs to be burned. The scheme is the same - the wood chips burn in the urn. Stir the fire constantly, otherwise the barrel will catch fire. There are no ready-made recipes here. If you set fire to the boards, the wine will take on a burning smell. If you finish firing ahead of time, the rivets will tear the hoop.

Manufacturing and installation of bottoms

At a distance of up to 2.5 cm from the ends of the frame, select the so-called morning groove. The bottom will then be inserted into it. Previously, such an operation was trusted only to a special incisor, a morning dresser (another endangered profession!). Today it is much easier to use a cutter. At the same time, remove the chamfers from the ends of the barrel. Useful when shrinking the bottoms.

To make them you will need rivets again, just a little large sizes. They are connected into panels with steel nails without heads. By actually measuring the length of the mouth groove, you can easily determine the radius of the bottom. Outline it on the shield and cut it out with a jigsaw. Sharpen the ends of the round.
The connection between the bottom and the frame looks like this.

To put the bottom in its place, the frame will have to be unchained on one side. The rivets should already be in shape by this time. Insert the round piece into the morning groove, press it into place with a mallet, and tighten the product again with the hoop. If everything is done correctly, the bottom will not leak. Before repeating the operation with the other bottom, cut a drain hole in it. Diameter – 32 mm. When everything is ready, we polish the barrel, giving it a marketable appearance, and prepare it for soaking.

Soak

In principle, the barrel is already ready. One could calm down on this, but the wood is still too saturated with tannins and tannins. Therefore, you will have to soak them, otherwise the contents of the barrel will deteriorate.

Fill the container one third with hot (80 °C) water. Rotate the barrel for half an hour so that the moisture moves around the entire perimeter. Next, drain the liquid and replace it with cold one. It should stand in the container for a day, after which it must be replaced again. And so on for two weeks. Some people soak the barrel with ready-made wine, others with moonshine. Everyone has their own style. But it’s worth starting with water.

Now the barrel is really ready for wine. Or beer. Or moonshine with cucumbers - what do you choose?..