DIY crib with drawers. Comfortable do-it-yourself crib: drawings, photos

The crib should be ready to welcome a new addition to the family while the mother prepares to be discharged, but not just out of courtesy and joy. Man is a social being, and a stable society is impossible without hierarchy. Having received his own territory and things from birth, even if he still does not completely understand their meaning, the little person will gain self-confidence, over time correctly determine his place in society and achieve success. This, of course, is not an absolute law, but statistics clearly show: babies who, by the will (or lack of will) of their parents, wandered anywhere at an unintelligent age, have a much greater chance of growing up careless and worthless. There is even a historical and sociological theory: they say that people began to emerge from savagery and create civilization when the cradle was invented and mothers stopped carrying their babies around all the time.

All this may be interesting, but in a developed civilization, dad, rushing around stores and websites in happy anticipation, discovers that the prices for cribs for babies are disproportionately high compared to the complexity and material intensity of the products. And you can’t undermine it; under each hidden scam there is a solid medical, environmental, production and legislative basis. But what about in a consumer society, and let parents spare nothing for their child.

Let's say the head of the family is a craftsman. Then he has the idea of ​​making a crib himself: its design has been formed over thousands of years, there is nothing complicated about it, and nothing is required of material. It is possible to make a crib for a baby with your own hands, using ordinary household tools plus a jigsaw, manual or, better, electric. There is one more reason: after giving birth, the mother, especially if it is her first child, will be “on edge.” Having made sure that the faithful did not revel or procrastinate in her absence, but worked diligently in his field for the sake of the family good, she will calm down much faster and generally return to normal. And there will be more milk, which is again good for the baby.

Which one will we do?

Classic crib for a newborn, pos. 1 in Fig., the design is simple. Basic requirements for it:

• Environmental cleanliness and complete health and sanitary safety.
• No sharp protrusions or edges.
• There should be no holes/openings or crevices in which anything from a finger to a head can get stuck in a little one.
• The presence of sides is required; It is well known how dangerous it is for babies to fall even from a small height. It is desirable that the front side (wall) be partially folded or lowered to make it more convenient for the mother to care for the child.
• Ventilated, i.e. lattice or perforated bottom. No matter how much baby hygiene products improve, the baby will one day make the bed dirty.
• If the newborn is the first-born and it is planned to someday add brothers and sisters to him, then sufficient strength and durability in combination with a collapsible design.

Often, for ease of movement around the house, a baby crib is placed on wheels, pos. 2. In small apartments you can sometimes find samples with drawers for linen in the under-bed space, like in adults, pos. 3. However, for the reasons stated above, drawers under an infant's cot should be equipped with waterproof lids. Finally, quite complex and expensive, but convenient for mom and saving living space product – a crib for newborns, combined with a chest of drawers for changing, pos. 4.

Many babies have to be rocked to sleep. Main types of rocking beds hammock, pos. 5, cradle (with upper suspension of the bed), pos. 6, and a cradle (with a bed on the lower curved rocking supports), pos. 7. A hammock is only suitable as a temporary rookery, say, at the dacha on the weekend. The baby’s bones are still soft, and constant lying on something malleable deforms his skeleton. Cribs for newborns - hammocks are most often made folding and transportable.

The cradle is easy to rock, but difficult to make, because... some kind of mechanism is required. In addition, the risk for a baby to fall out of the cradle, hanging over the side, is much greater than from a hammock or cradle. The latter, moreover, is easier to make, and the small bumper protrusions on the rocking chairs make it completely safe, which is why the cradle is the most common. The cradle must have a bed lock, preferably a spring one with a self-resetting mechanism, which must be retracted for rocking, otherwise a busy mother may forget to insert it when leaving the crib. “With self-reset” means that the mechanism itself will place the stock horizontally and reset the pin into the socket if the angle of inclination of the cradle exceeds a certain permissible value.

Note: cribs for babies may have completely different bumpers, see the end for details.

Motion sickness in the transverse direction is not optimal for a person, this is how our vestibular apparatus is designed. Anyone who has gone to sea on a boat or sailing yacht knows that pitching motion is much easier to bear than side motion. Babies who are constantly rocked sideways may even develop an addiction to rocking, which is why the obnoxious screamer, as he grows up, risks turning into a hyperactive idiot or “no” autist. The likelihood of injuring the baby’s psyche by excessive motion sickness is reduced to almost zero if the cradle (pos. 8) or cradle (pos. 9) is adapted to motion sickness in the longitudinal direction.

IN Lately pendulum beds have become widespread, pos. 10, free from the disadvantages of cradles and cradles. Firstly, transverse motion sickness in a pendulum crib is harmless, because The child’s body does not tilt with it and his vestibular apparatus experiences a completely negligible load in one plane. Secondly, it is almost impossible for a child to fall out of it, because the crib itself is not tiltable. Thirdly, the under-bed drawer can be arranged more simply - access to it is provided automatically. The pendulum mechanism itself is fundamentally simple, pos. 11, you will only have to occasionally adjust the tension of the springs as the child grows.

What not to do!

Under no circumstances should you make a crib for a newborn that can swing in 2 planes, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. Perhaps your offspring, having matured, will set out to become a pilot or parachutist and, from the first approach, will withstand the jumping training with a joyful grin, without turning a bit green. But in infancy, humpty dumpty back and forth would not have benefited Valery Chkalov either.

Further, it is undesirable to make the bottom of the crib with too thin lathing, pos. 3. When the baby learns to stand up, his legs will crawl into the cracks along with the mattress. A thick mattress pad (see below) solves the problem, but this is extra work, material and costs, and unnecessary drying and replacement. The best bottom for a newborn’s crib is made of fiberboard with a thickness of approx. 10 mm with holes with a diameter of 20-30 mm, drilled along the grid with a pitch of 70-90 mm. If it suddenly becomes completely unusable, it’s easier and cheaper to replace than a mattress pad, and the spare space takes up less space. And don't worry, fiberboard is environmentally friendly pure material, even cleaner than the original wood. In its production, no synthetic binders are used, and during the processing process, all volatile substances are “exhaled” from the wood.

Note: It is also undesirable to make a height-adjustable bottom in a baby’s crib. The nests under its holders are tempting from the point of view of understanding the world, and the little finger will climb into them. If without nests, then a rather complex and expensive mechanism is required. And for mom, a folding side is quite enough.

A bad solution is also the playpen crib, pos. 4. In all creatures whose life is divided into an active phase and sleep, instinct during the latter requires complete safety. Combining the sleeping area with the play area does not provide it. Which adult is able to get a good night's sleep at work? What can we say about small children who are defenseless and are not yet able to understand their surroundings?

About the canopy

A canopy over a newborn's crib is not a luxury. And not so much a remedy for dust, which should not exist in a nursery or in a well-kept apartment in general. But remember, which adult has not been driven to white heat by an autumn fly or a mosquito itching and itching in the dark? What does it feel like for a baby who doesn’t yet use his hands? And there is really no need to turn on the fumigator or spray repellent in the nursery.

The canopy over the baby's crib is made from natural fabric that allows air to pass freely: chiffon, voile (silk or cotton), organza (silk only), muslin. Optimal design– a tent, on the left in the figure, or a tent, in the center, allowing, if necessary, to completely fold back/retract the canopy. But we remember: in the process of learning about the environment, the child will tug and pull the canopy.

Purchased children's canopies are equipped with a durable bracket with a holder made of light, durable elastic plastic, on the right in Fig. At self-production the best option– a canopy tent suspended from a cord from the ceiling. An M6 hook-screw screwed into a steel threaded collet cannot be pulled out of the ceiling by a strong adult, and if it is unscrewed, the hole is almost invisible on a ceiling only 2.5 m high. except for the lightest fabric and thin lace, it will not fall off.

Note: best protection on the crib from annoying insects and dust, under which even an asthmatic will not be out of breath - a mosquito net. But not a fiberglass window, but a special tropical one. Its meshes are wider than those of airy dress-drapery fabrics and it itself is stronger. This is a rare product here, but still take an interest. Ruched bows also look good on her.

What kind of sides should I make?

Sellers offer a wide variety of protective barriers for infant cribs: folding, lowering, hinged, sliding, with doors and hatches. But upon closer examination, it turns out that there is something everywhere in which a finger or the entire pen can get caught. And the recesses under the overhead parts carefully store dust and, as it were, invite settlers. Only unwanted ones and not of the human kind, but of the arthropod.

The simplest and safest bumpers for a newborn’s crib are folding ones with elastic bands, see fig. The height of the folding part of 150-180 mm is enough for the mother to comfortably care for her child. There are no complaints about such boards, but it is reliably known that at least one new person in this world with a character to envy m-mes Sobtchak & Timoshenko, for 3.5 years she was never injured or broke anything; The rubber bands were changed 2 times during this time.

Note: 2 ways of laying a folding strip of this type will be discussed below.

Let's get down to business

Now it's time to make a crib. Its design and decoration is another matter (with one small exception, see below); first you need to make a durable and solid foundation. And even before that, decide on the material; first of all, in terms of its safety for the baby, then in terms of price and manufacturability at home.

What to make it from?

Even the safest plastics are no longer needed: as children grow up a little, they begin to touch everything. Tactile sensations from plastic run counter to his fundamental instincts, which can cause irritability and damage the emerging moral and volitional qualities. For the same reason, we also discard metal, which will also cause more harm when the baby starts teething. Then the shortcomings of textile and other semi-soft types of cribs will be fully reflected.

As for laminated chipboard, the emission class of phenol-containing compounds is E0 (zero, highest or extra grade), it seems to be applicable for children's furniture. But conscientious manufacturers honestly indicate in their specifications: “For children from 6 months”, therefore, not newborns. In addition, high-quality laminated chipboard is expensive; a crib made from it will cost more than a ready-made one with a canopy. That is, a newborn’s crib should be made of wood.

We select wood for a crib taking into account the fact that its impregnation with any biocides is unacceptable. Therefore, any industrial wood of foreign origin is no longer needed: consumer supervision simply will not allow it to enter the market raw. Among deciduous domestic species, birch and beech are suitable for a crib for several generations; for single use - cheap aspen or linden, but it is expensive. All others contain tannins, salicylates and other substances that are harmless for adults, but can cause allergies in an infant.

From coniferous species Pine is quite reliable, but not just any one. Pine wood goes on sale in the form of expensive tar, cut down during sap flow, and cheaper dried wood, harvested in winter. Tar is good for outdoor buildings because... It is not susceptible to rot and pests, but is absolutely unsuitable for a crib. The rest coniferous trees The change in resin content from sap flow to sleep is not so pronounced, so it’s better not to take risks.

In order not to make a mistake with pine, it is better to make a crib out of it using plywood. The cheapest construction and packaging plywood is made from dead wood pine glued with harmless and safe casein glue. There is no point in “cheating” for manufacturers, because everything else is more expensive. A plywood crib will last with proper home preparation of the material, see below, 2-3 times for 4-5 years, which is quite enough for a family.

About finishing

Over time, the baby will feel that there is something in his mouth that is being bitten. And then he will start gnawing on everything. This is a natural and necessary process, but it once created children's furniture makers serious problems: leave the tree bare - fibers will be swallowed, or even choking on a splinter. Nitrolac is not harmless, and its sharp scales cut lips, gums, and tongue.

Now there is no such problem: acrylic lacquer on water based, firstly, it is completely safe; secondly, it is very durable. Compounds of a similar composition restore the enamel of bathtubs, which even a seasoned wolf would break its fangs on.

Very suspicious parents can also put special silicone pads on the sides of the crib. But you will have to buy them and adjust the design to the chosen model: construction and aquarium silicone is not suitable for homemade products, you need a special one, from which teething toys are made. It is not on sale in its raw form, only in finished products.

Cradle and classic

How a classic wooden crib for newborns works is shown in Fig. on right. Pay attention, firstly, to the placement of the sides in the pockets and the prefabricated design of the rocking chairs. We'll deal with the first one later, and use the second one further. Its recommended dimensions and specification of parts in a modern design, without labor-intensive artistic details, are shown in Fig. below.

Cradle

Who knows, perhaps the pediatrician, after looking at your restless baby, will recommend rocking him to sleep in a cradle. Child differs from child to child, and there is no one who can agree on everything general rules. In such a case, in Fig. drawings of a newborn's crib - a cradle made of boards. However, it is no longer possible to keep an older child in a cradle, so the length of this crib should not be increased. Secondly, a latch (stopper) of the bed is still needed, since the baby is restless. In this design it is manual, so remember to insert as you leave and supervise each other.

Plywood classic

Here in Fig. – detailing of a plywood crib for a newborn classic type with a side with elastic bands. It was made at home; a hand jigsaw (electric ones were not widely available at that time). The wayward person mentioned above grew up in her. Material – 2 sheets (quite a lot left) of birch plywood 6 mm thick; Construction pine will also work.

First of all, a plaster was prepared (several pieces of packaging cardboard put together), the outlines of the parts were sketched on it, and everything was covered with a solid plastic film. Then a sheet of plywood on the plaza was impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion, first on one side, and after it had completely dried on the other, and cut into blanks with a hacksaw. Using a jigsaw, grooves for the sheathing were cut out in the middle plates of the bags and openings in the backs.

Parts were glued together from plates using PVA for wood (sold and is sold in construction and hardware stores). The glue was applied with a brush thin layer onto all glued surfaces of the package plates and kept until softly tacky (the adhesive film turns slightly yellow and becomes translucent in places).

There was no money to hold the packages together; there was no time to do it. Therefore, small bags were simply wrapped in plastic and tied tightly with a flat elastic band; It took a whole skein, approx. 10 m. It was necessary to tighten the bags with an elastic band, twisting and pulling the turns very evenly so that the plates did not crawl along the glue. The upper and lower planks of the walls (items 1 and 3) still crawled, so after applying and soaking the glue, they had to be knocked down with small nails. The nails were then pulled out, and the holes were covered with homemade putty made from sawdust using the same PVA.

It was more difficult with the backs; you can’t tighten them with rubber bands. Therefore, holes were drilled for assembly guides, for which furniture dowels 18 mm long were used. The gluing of the backs was carried out on the plaza under pressure, which was used with dumbbells and stacks of books. According to calculations, for 2 layers of PVA of such an area, a bend of 25-35 kg is needed, evenly distributed over the surface of the bag.

Also, the parts of the support belt were glued together from 3 strips of plywood, but it was assembled locally in the crib. After drying for 3-4 days, any leaks of glue that appeared in all parts were cut off with a safety razor blade (there were no assembly knives then either) and the edges were sanded.

While the glued bags were drying, the frame of the bed was assembled from boards cut into half a tree, glued without holding and reinforced with nails. The rectangularity of the frame on the glue that had not yet hardened was carefully verified by measuring the sides and diagonals, because it then served as an assembly template, and only then were the nails driven in. The flooring of the bed is fibreboard with perforation, see above. It was laid on glue and nails on the side on which the legs of the crossbars were, so that they lay on the longitudinal beams, and did not hang on nails and glue.

Note: The racks of the backrest sheathing were made similarly to those of the walls, but shorter. Placed in place in front of the top plate.

The crib was assembled using screws (nowadays, of course, confirmations would be better). The loads on the joints of the baby crib are small; fastening with threaded hardware along the layer in this case is quite reliable and at the same time allows up to 4-5 disassemblies/assemblies if the plywood is impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. The squareness of the box was verified with a stock, and its horizontality with a level. Then marks were made along its bottom and beams of the support belt were placed along them using glue and nails; The transverse ones should be spaced between the longitudinal ones, so the crib will be stronger.

The oval support boss of the flap of the side is less traumatic, and it is easier to make than a pocket. Some 18 mm thick scraps were used for the bosses; they were installed with glue and nails. At the ends of the planks, U-shaped holes were selected for them using a drill and chisel - there were no household wood routers then either.

Time still endured and the crib was covered oil varnish, not as harmful as nitro. Immediately the rubber bands were fixed in the blind holes too furniture dowels. Then another final drying, and the crib is ready.

Transformer

There are also many convertible cribs for newborns on sale, but at least one variety is not just a fashion statement. We are talking about a crib for growth, but it doesn’t come down to a sliding bottom. An already sufficiently formed personality may be indignant: “I won’t sleep like a little guy!” Therefore, a transformable crib “from scratch” should be structurally and externally similar to an adult one. In this case, the fence is made removable from a cord; Of course, this is an option only for fairly calm babies. And the transformation comes down to removing one back and using it to increase the length of the bed. Drawings of a homemade “growing” crib for newborns are shown in Fig.

Drawings of a crib “from scratch to growth”

What if you are very restless?

It also happens that the doctor throws up his hands: nothing can be done, he needs to sleep with you, then he will outgrow it. Or, on the contrary, the mother may be the most wonderful in the world, but she is weak and she cannot constantly get up at night to feed. Then you will need a cot attached to the parent's bed without a front wall. A crib for restless newborns must include a bumper - a soft, hygroscopic pillow along the contour with ties, see fig. on right. And from what and how to sew a crib bumper with your own hands, see the video below:

Video: how to sew a bumper (sides) for a child’s bed

Arrangement

Under no circumstances should you protect the crib mattress from getting wet with oilcloth; this will lead to abrasions and diaper rash for the baby. Firstly, you need 2 mattresses, with a reserve for drying. Secondly, they must not rot and dry quickly enough. Therefore, it is preferable to sew them from linen and wrap them in calico, flannel or flannel. The stuffing is the best horsehair; its almost complete replacement is coconut fiber or sisal.

Now remember that the bones of a newborn are soft. Therefore, the thickness of the mattress should be small, up to 6-7 cm. But then sleeping, feeling the hard bed with your body, will not be so comfortable. A 10-15 cm thick mattress pad made of the most dense, 45-50 number, furniture foam rubber will help out; it is wrapped in the same fabric as the mattress. The mattress pad will also absorb some of the moisture, which will speed up the drying of the mattress, but then you also need 2 of them.

A newborn does not need a pillow to prevent torticollis from developing. However, sometimes, on the recommendation of a doctor, for very fidgety people you have to buy a butterfly pillow: its middle is almost flat, and its wings are voluminous. But there is no need to experiment with such pillows yourself - suitable materials are not sold separately and the manufacturing technology cannot be “domesticated”.

Decorations

When considering the design of a baby’s crib, you need to remember that his vision, both in terms of sharpness and color perception, develops gradually. Therefore, the contours of the decorative elements need to be smooth, and the colors dim and unsaturated, preferably close to the middle of the spectrum: pale yellow, light beige, light green, pale blue. Bleached red and orange are acceptable, but poisonous green, deep blue and purple tones no way, like everything shiny.

A very simple and useful way for a child to decorate his crib is to hang a carousel mobile above it, see picture, with soft toys. Their smooth movement will not only calm the baby, but will also contribute to the development of his visual motor skills. Since mobile phones for babies came into use, the number of children with congenital visual defects has decreased markedly.

Finally

Presumably, it has now become clear to you that a simple crib for a newborn is not so simple in its essence, because there is a whole world of a new person in it. Therefore, let me wish you success not only in mastery, but also in studying the basics of child psychology. They have it from the very beginning, even if they themselves do not understand it yet.

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DIY children's bed: drawings, photos, manufacturing materials

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of good sleep for a child’s health. That’s why it’s so important to get a comfortable and safe bed. By the way, you don’t have to buy furniture to decorate a child’s bedroom, because you can assemble it yourself. Read on to learn how to do this correctly.

Elements of a baby cot

Before we start making a children's bed, let's decide what distinguishes it from its adult counterparts. Among the distinctive features:

• Dimensions. Mattresses for children's beds are shorter and narrower than their adult counterparts (see table of standard sizes of sleeping mattresses).
• Number and location of beds. The bed in children's furniture is not made double, more often it is a single design. If you need to accommodate two children, the structure is assembled in two tiers.
• Operational safety. Quality furniture for a children's room does not have sharp corners or traumatic parts.
• Decorative design. Furniture for a children's room should not be boring and visually attractive to the child.

Let's summarize the points listed. A children's bed is made from the same elements as its adult counterparts, that is, it uses a supporting frame around the perimeter, mattress holder slats, a mattress, etc. But all these elements have smaller dimensions and are made of environmentally friendly materials.

The elements in the design of children's furniture are rounded at the corners and painted in bright colors. An important point is that to ensure safety, the design of most children's beds uses high sides. The use of such elements is mandatory in cribs for children under 3 years of age.

Deciding on the model

The choice of children's bed design determines:

• Children's age. The dimensions of the bed depend on age - the older the child, the larger the bed.
• Amount of children. A single-tier bed is built for one child, and as the number of children increases, the number of tiers increases.
• Gender of the child. The gender of a child affects decorative design furniture.
• Features of the room. In a spacious nursery you can install several single-tier beds, but in a cramped room the structure is built in several tiers.
• Project budget. Material capabilities determine what materials the furniture can be assembled from.

Basic details of wooden beds

The design of a single single-tier children's bed consists of load-bearing frame, which is assembled from boards and encircles the product around the perimeter. At the corners of the supporting frame there are vertical supports that serve as legs and as side holders.

At the top of the supports there are horizontal boards - sides. Sideboards for older children are installed on three sides of the bed, and for children younger age four at a time.

Along the inner perimeter of the frame there are slats that will hold the mattress. At the bottom of the bed there is free space in which there are drawers for storing linen and bedding.

Design bunk bed repeats the design of a single-tier structure with the difference that two beds are supported on the same supports. To make it easy to climb onto the second tier, the design uses ladder. To ensure safety, the side of the second tier is located on four sides.

Materials

Illustrations	Materials and their description
	Solid wood lumber. Boards, beams, furniture boards are all-wood, environmentally friendly materials, which I primarily recommend for assembling children's furniture.
	Metal. Children's beds can be assembled from rolled metal, provided that the welds are neat.
	Particle board(chipboard). Chipboard is not the best option in terms of environmental safety. But due to its affordable price, laminated chipboard is still the most popular and in demand material.
	Oriented Strand Board (OSB). From the point of view of environmental safety, OSB is worse than chipboard, since the formaldehyde content in these boards is higher. If OSB is used to make furniture, it must be provided that the surface is covered with several continuous layers of varnish.
	Fibreboard – auxiliary material. Fiberboard (fibreboard) is used as a structural material, which is used to line the bottom of drawers or cover the top of a bed.

About fasteners

If you are making a bed from lumber or particle boards, for fastening you will need confirmations - universal fasteners in the form of screws with an increased thread pitch. In order to provide greater strength to the confirmations, you can use dowels - wooden choppers that are driven into pre-drilled holes.

You will also need L-shaped corner perforated plates and self-tapping screws to secure them.

Available for sale corner mounts regular and reinforced with scarves on the fold, as shown in the photo. When choosing, we give preference to reinforced plates, as they are stronger and more reliable.

About accessories

A children's bed is a simple structure, where the list of special fittings is limited to guides for tilting the front wall, a pendulum mechanism for rocking cradles, etc. When assembling it yourself, you can limit yourself to rollers for drawers, as well as hinges and latches for the folding front wall.

Necessary tool

The choice of tool depends on what the furniture will be assembled from. To work with lumber, you need a basic set of carpentry equipment, including a drill, screwdriver, jigsaw, router, 5 mm hex key, and measuring tool. You will also need free space on which you can cut out the necessary parts and then assemble them together.

Wooden bed

After we have decided on the choice of materials, fastening hardware and fittings, we will consider how to assemble it with our own hands wooden furniture for a children's room. As an example, I offer instructions for assembling a typical bunk bed shown in the drawing.

The structure assembled according to the proposed scheme is durable, neat and at the same time budget-friendly in terms of materials. The most important thing is that such a bed is not difficult to make yourself, even if such work is being done for the first time.

Illustrations	Making a crib with drawers
	Materials and tools. To assemble this bed you need pine or beech boards with a section of 35×100 mm and 25×100 mm. To process wood you will need Miter saw, router, drill, confirmation wrench, screwdriver.
	Cutting out the details. From a 35×100 board we cut 4 pieces 1900 mm long, 4 pieces 1810 mm long and 4 pieces 800 mm long. On workpieces 1810 mm long we make grooves 35×100 mm as shown in the photo.
	We make legs (supports). As shown in the photo in the grooves vertical supports We attach the crossbars, which will be the head and foot of the bed on the upper and lower tier.
	Assembling the bed and installing the ladder. After the end units of the bed are ready, we attach the longitudinal boards and safety barriers. We install slats—mattress holders—in the inner perimeter of the upper and lower beds. We assemble a staircase from a board and a rounded beam; if there is no round beam, steps can be made from a board.
	Installation of drawer fronts. We assemble the boxes from boards as a rectangular frame, with a bottom attached at the bottom. For convenience and safety of operation, we make the fronts of the drawers without handles with recesses, as shown in the photo. At the bottom of the boxes we attach roll-out rollers.

Let's take a closer look at the operations you will encounter during assembly.

Illustrations	Assembly process details
	Screwing in confirmations. To screw in the confirmat, we drill a hole - for this we use a drill with a special cutter. If there is no special drill, drill a hole the length of the confirmation and a diameter of 3 mm. Then we expand the edge of the hole made to 5 mm to a depth of 5 mm and get a recess under the head of the confirmation. We screw the confirmat so that its head is completely recessed into the wood. Subsequently, the mounting hole will be closed with a decorative plug.
	Holes for dowels. To install the dowel, holes of the appropriate diameter are drilled in the parts to be connected, most often 6 or 8 mm. The depth of the hole in each of the connected parts is 15 or 20 mm (depending on the length of the dowel). The dowel is driven into the wood with or without preliminary application of glue.
	Making the base for the mattress. To install an orthopedic mattress, you can purchase ready-made slats, like those shown in the photo, or you can cut the same pieces of boards yourself. A barrier is made from a block along the inner perimeter of the bed, onto which prepared lamellas are laid. The lamella base is suitable for hard mattresses. If the mattress is soft, the base is made not from lamellas, but from a solid plywood sheet.
	Installation of swing facades. As an alternative to drawers, hinged fronts can be installed at the bottom of the bed. Installation of facades is carried out using conventional adjustable hinges.
	Decorating the bed. Finished furniture can be treated with stain and varnished if it is wooden. In other cases, painting is the preferred option. Alternatively, a bed made of wood or chipboard can be upholstered with fabric pre-pasted with foam rubber.

Homemade bed-car

Illustrations	Assembling the car bed
	Support frame. A rectangular frame - a box - is assembled from a furniture panel. Gaps are cut out from one of the ends of the box using a jigsaw to imitate a radiator grille, headlights, etc.
	Imitation windshield . Openings are made on the sides of the body through which the child will enter the structure. At the distance at which the hood is expected to end, we attach a frame assembled from slats.
	Installing the Drawer Lid. The lid of the bedding box, imitating a hood, is attached to a piano hinge at the front of the bed. At the same stage, the wheel rims are attached to the sides.
	Mattress holders. A plywood sheet is installed inside the assembled box, on which the mattress is laid.
	Primer and painting. After the bed is assembled, the surface is primed and painted. Considering the complex design of furniture, to work with paint and varnish materials It is preferable to use a brush. The choice of paint is not important, the main thing is that it is completely dry before use.

Let's sum it up

Now you know how and what to make a children's bed from. If according to the proposed step by step guide If you have any questions, ask them in the comments to the article.

Everyone has different requirements for children's bedroom furniture. Some people prioritize extreme lightness and minimalism, giving preference to models with hollow bases, under which it is so easy to keep clean. Some people like the extreme functionality of each furniture module - these are the parents who are interested in how to make a bed with drawers with their own hands in a roomy, practical and comfortable design.

How to make a bed with drawers with your own hands, where to start

Before making a bed with drawers with your own hands, you need to decide on several points:

• The width and length of the bed. The mattress can be used in standard sizes or made to order. Usually length teenage bed varies between 1800-2050 mm, and the width of the berth is 750-1250 mm (from a single to a semi-truck).
• Type of base. The mattress can “lie” on a bottom made of laminated chipboard or slats - in this case, the bed frame is load-bearing. Often the basis is independent metal carcass on the legs - orthopedic base. In this case, the bed box is assembled around it.
• Number of boxes. One drawer can be built under the base of the bed - its design can be adapted to accommodate a guest bed. Or use the space for storing toys and build two or three drawers into the base.
• Drawer pullout type. There are two radically different design options: independent from the body, rolling out on wheels or attached to the body, sliding out on guides. Each option has its own advantages. The only thing is that if the flooring in the nursery is laminate, I would advise you to abandon the wheel supports for practical reasons.

How to build a drawer under the bed with your own hands

Easier to assemble are inset drawer designs that are independent of the bed frame itself.

An inset structure can also be a single, monolithic structure, without division into two or three parts.

The orthopedic base provides a rigid connection to the installation of drawers: it is necessary not only to “bypass” the support legs with the frame design, but also to fit into the given height. As a rule, the height of the legs of the orthopedic base is about 190 mm, +/- a couple of centimeters for adjustment. But it is better to focus on an already purchased product, since local manufacturers’ standards may differ slightly.

The inset design for drawers is made in the same way, it is simply shortened by the amount of indentation of the support legs of the orthopedic base from the edge of the box. But it’s easier to implement the option with independent boxes on wheels - you don’t need to assemble an inset structure for them. It is enough to place a partition in the center to make it easier for the child to slide each drawer into its own “department.”

Do-it-yourself bed with drawers, example of calculation based on the drawing of the basic model

As a basis for calculations, you can completely take a do-it-yourself drawing of a children’s bed of the basic model considered. The only difference is that the front bar needs to be reduced in width so that the built-in drawers are deeper.

Among the constructive points it should be noted:

• The front strip is attached last because it covers top part inset design (inlay height is 300 mm, the bar is attached at a level of 280 mm from the floor).
• The box is mounted above the floor level, the width of the gap above the floor is at least 10 mm (more if there is carpet on the floor).
• The bottom of the box must be reinforced with a stiffening rib if it will be used to store heavy objects (toys) and may not be reinforced if it is planned to store a seasonal set of linen (blankets, pillows, rugs, etc.).

Calculation of the details of a children's bed with drawers with your own hands according to a given drawing will look like this.

From the cut maps it is clear that a bed with drawers It takes about two sheets of chipboard with your own hands.

For model with orthopedic base the consumption will be less - after all, there is no need to make the bottom, the lamellas will serve as the base. The material consumption if the drawers in the bed are rolled out on wheels will remain approximately the same. Yes, there are certain savings due to the fact that the liner itself does not need to be assembled. But do not forget that the role of the bottom of the boxes on wheels in the bed will be played not by fiberboard, but by laminated chipboard.

Making a baby crib with your own hands has a number of advantages. This is also a lower cost compared to purchasing finished furniture, and quality (parents can be confident in the safety of the materials used). Despite the fact that working with wood is labor-intensive and takes a lot of time, the result will greatly please the child, who will receive a unique sleeping area made taking into account his needs and wishes.

Preparatory stage

Before starting production, you need to take into account all the nuances and prepare materials, without which the work will be impossible.

Bed design

The crib must be simultaneously:

• comfortable (to give the child the opportunity to roll over in his sleep without hitting the walls, and due to the “breathable” design to ensure air flow);
• safe (protect from falling, have no protruding sharp parts, have a sufficient margin of safety);
• functional (the space under or above the bed should be used to store toys, clothes and bedding);
• attractive (cause pleasant emotions and the desire to use it for its intended purpose, fit into general style rooms).

When choosing a design, it is important to consider your carpentry skills and technical capabilities. A novice craftsman who has access to a minimal set of tools will be able to make only the simplest models of beds, consisting of sides, headboards, legs, slats and drawers, without loss of quality.

Start creating beds in the shape of a car, plane, flower or other complex structures It is only worth it in cases where the person doing the work has considerable experience and plans to process the parts using professional equipment.

Tools

The more different tools a master has, the faster and easier it will be for him to complete the job.

• However, there are some that you can’t do without:
• Electric jigsaw.
• Knife saw. Sanding machine (it can be replaced sandpaper
• , but in this case, processing the boards will take many times longer).
• Screwdriver.
• Drill.
• Bulgarian.

Needle files.

Materials Solid wood is considered the best material for making children's furniture. A bed made of pine, beech or oak will last a long time and will be relatively resistant to moisture and pest attacks. At the same time natural wood has two qualities that do not always make its use possible - it is significant weight finished products

and high price. Instead of an array, you can use more cheap materials

(such as MDF, chipboard, OSB, plywood and others). It must be remembered that during their production substances based on formaldehyde are used, the vapors of which negatively affect even the health of adults, and they can cause irreparable harm to the fragile body of a child.

Other

• You will also need consumables:
• Self-tapping screws of different diameters.
• Metal corner and ties.
• Rails or other guides and wheels (for structures with retractable elements).
• Simple or colored pencil.

Paper for notes.

Making a bed: step-by-step instructions

1. Wood marking. Using a regular clerical pencil, draw the location of the parts. When all work is completed, traces of stylus are erased from visible surfaces with an eraser or washed off with alcohol. For rendering complex decorative elements you can use objects that come to hand (for example, to draw a circle, just circle the bottom of a glass).
2. Sawing. Performed using electric jigsaw. While working, you need to ensure that the cuts are neat and even. Finished parts should be numbered if the design involves a structure consisting of many elements.
3. Preparation of fastenings. You need to cut out the spikes and nests for them in the parts that will be connected to each other. Also at this stage, you should cut off two pieces of metal corner for attaching the slats, from which the bottom of the bed is formed. Mark holes for screws on the cuts and drill them.
4. Sanding parts. Use a grinding machine or sandpaper to process all cuts and the surface of the boards if it is rough.
5. Varnishing and other types of decorative processing. If the parts are expected to be painted, varnished, covered with film or upholstered with fabric, this work should be done when the bed is disassembled.
6. Assembly. By gluing tenons into the grooves and using metal ties, the structure is assembled, starting from the main frame. Wheels are attached to the drawers, and slats are attached to the bed walls. When everything is ready, put on the mattress and cover the bed with linen.

Possible mistakes

Anyone who has not previously encountered furniture making may make a number of mistakes. Here are the most common ones:

• Using fresh wood. Since over time the material will dry out, become denser and, accordingly, decrease in size, the structure will simply fall apart. For a bed, you should only purchase boards that have been left in a dry, ventilated area for two or three years or have been machine dried.
• Neglecting to polish parts. All parts of children's furniture must be properly processed to avoid injury. Since a child can stick his hand even into narrow cracks or crawl completely under the bed, even those that are inside the structure should be sanded.
• Connecting parts using screws. This assembly option is good anywhere, but not in children's furniture. Under the influence of constant loads, the thread will destroy the structure of the wood fibers, and over time the structure will become loose. To assemble the parts, you should use special tenon joints, which are shown in the figure below, and be sure to glue them with wood glue. To strengthen areas that are subject to the greatest loads, metal ties are used.

Decor ideas

To make a children's bed from wood with your own hands, you need to be guided by the accompanying drawings and dimensions. Since the size of the mattress is fundamental, you need to independently calculate the dimensions of the parts.

Based on Harry Potter

Making such a bed is not much more difficult than a regular one, but the joy of a child who dreams of touching the magical world of Harry Potter will be endless.

The main decorative elements are:

• number 5979 (numbers can be easily cut out of wood, painted in silver color and glue it to the footboard or use for this purpose metal badges that are sold in a hardware store to indicate apartment numbers);
• an inscription symbolizing the Hogwarts school of wizards (the easiest way to do it yourself is by printing it on a color printer, gluing it onto a piece of veneer cut to size and covering it with several layers of varnish).

The space under the bed can be left empty, but it is much more effective to fill it with drawers. Great option There will be equipment there for an additional sleeping place, which will be useful if one of the young wizard’s friends comes to visit.

The original dimensions of the bed and color combination are shown in the figure.

With canopy

This bed will be more to the taste of girls. According to the design concept, the canopy is made in the form of side curtains, and the top of the bed remains open, but if desired, you can improve the design (for example, tighten the top part with fabric).

Since curtains need to be washed regularly, the fastening should allow them to be removed and hung back without difficulty.

If for some reason the presence of a canopy is undesirable, the same bed can be made without it. To do this, it is enough to shorten the slats on which it rests, so that the legs end flush with the sides.

Cozy house

A real lifesaver for parents whose children have trouble falling asleep. The design of this bed creates a calm and at the same time fairy-tale atmosphere, and high sides in the form of walls and a roof help the child feel protected.

The effect of the night sky can be created on a tree in several ways:

• draw acrylic paints, which have a beautiful glossy texture, are durable, and do not have a strong odor;
• buy wallpaper or self-adhesive film with a similar design;
• cover the board with a fabric of the appropriate color (in this case you will have to regularly vacuum the inside of the bed).

Instead of drawers under the bed, you can equip a pull-out sleeping area for guests.

Two-tier with ladder-chest of drawers

If there are two children in a family, and the area of ​​the apartment does not allow for a separate bed for each, you should pay attention to this option. True, unlike simple designs, creating a bunk bed will require more time, skill and effort.

Under-bed drawers and a chest of drawers will allow you to optimize space and get extra bed for storing things. If desired, the steps can be made ordinary.

When working on such a bed, you need to take care of the safety of the child who will sleep on the lower tier. All fastenings of the “top floor” must be strengthened metal corners.

Loft bed

Excellent combination of sleeping space and play area. Such a bed will be a godsend for owners of small apartments, and even if there is a separate children's room, it will delight a child who loves adventure and active games.

Depending on personal preferences, the roof of a makeshift house can be covered with slats completely or partially. It would be a good idea to use fabric instead of boards, but you should not fasten it tightly - since woven fabric collects dust, such a canopy will have to be shaken out and washed often.

With work area

Suitable for an older child. The only inconvenience when using such a bed will be the choice of a suitable location, because if the place to sleep requires maximum shade, then the work desk should be in an area with sufficient lighting.

With some skill, such a design can not be made from scratch, but can be modified by the bed, the diagram of which is given above. To do this, you will have to move the stairs to the side, disassemble the roof, and cut out a tabletop and shelves from a new board.

Ottoman

To build a sleeping place of this type, you will need a minimum of material, tools and effort. Even a beginner in carpentry can get the job done without damaging the wood.

The absence of carved decorative elements can easily be compensated by beautiful bed linen or special stickers for furniture. If the style of the room allows, it is worth pasting wooden panels adhesive film with interesting designs, subsequently appearance beds can be refreshed just by peeling off old film and replacing it with a new one.

For a younger child who may roll onto the floor in his sleep, it is necessary to provide a limiting edge.

Of course, it is difficult to describe everything in one article possible options design and talk about all the possible errors and misunderstandings that may arise during work. But carpentry is a kind of creativity, so you shouldn’t be afraid to improvise and deviate from the previously outlined plan.

For children, parents always try to choose the best, including furniture, but looking at the very high prices for children wooden beds, or on beds - cars, boats, etc. You will inevitably wonder whether it is worth buying such a thing for several years... Maybe not, but you can make it yourself. A do-it-yourself children's bed can be assembled from several boards and bars in a few days. No particularly complex work or special tools are required. Mostly you need hands and desire.

Wooden bed

This is a regular bed without any tricks. In the presented version, it is suitable for middle school age and teenagers, but later it can be completed for children from 3 years old (second photo report). Collected from wooden parts(boards and bars). The project can be used as a basis, then adding design ideas.

You can argue about the color, but as a base it’s an excellent option

Materials and tools

No special tools are required for manufacturing. All that is needed:

The materials needed are:

• timber - 50*100 mm;
• board 25*100 mm and 25*75 mm;
• wood glue;
• wood putty;
• sandpaper.

Calculate the number of boards based on the planned dimensions. Requirements for wood are low humidity (not higher than 16%) and the absence of knots or a small number of them.

Making legs

A DIY children's bed begins with making the legs. We cut blanks from 50*100 mm timber - longer for the headboard, shorter for the footboard. You need 4 pieces of each length. We glue the blanks in pairs. We take one, coat it with wood glue, lay the second one, check whether they are aligned evenly, and twist it with self-tapping screws. In principle, you can use 100*100 mm timber and not bother with glue, but the price for it is very high.

We recess the screw heads into the wood, then seal them with wood putty. After drying, sand until smooth (with medium or fine sandpaper).

We also use sandpaper to bring the joint to perfect condition - everything should be even and smooth.

For the backs you will need boards with a groove 25 mm wide. If you have a router, you can make it yourself or turn it in a carpentry shop. You can also buy dowels ready-made; select a drill according to their diameter.

We drill holes for dowels at the ends of the planks with grooves. Determine exactly their distance from the edge - they must be strictly at the same level on all planks.

Also, the holes should be the same depth - half the length of this piece of wood. In order to be able to navigate when drilling, a marker strip is attached to the drill masking tape. It is used to control the depth of the hole.

Assembling the headboard and footboard

From a 25*50 mm board, planks of the same length are cut to fill the headboard and footboard. They are inserted into a groove coated with glue in advance.

We also drill a hole in the leg for dowels. First, we find the middle and draw a line along it (with a pencil). Place the assembled back, align it along the top edge, align the dowels on a line and mark the places where you need to drill holes for them (two at the top, two at the bottom). Pour a little glue into the holes and place the back. It must be planted tightly, without gaps. You can tap with your fist or mallet (do not damage the wood).

We repeat the same operation with the other leg. The not very beautiful joint at the top can be covered with a board, placing it on screws and covering the holes. As a result, this is what happens.

One important point, which concerns gluing parts. While the glue has not hardened, the joints are movable and the parts may become warped. Therefore, having set the angles to 90°, the part is fixed (with clamps or some other way) and left until the glue dries. The work continues after drying, and, as a rule, it begins with sanding the joint that has just been glued.

Making the base for the mattress

We take two boards 50*100 mm long, equal to the length of the mattress (or a couple of centimeters longer to make tucking more convenient). We install a 25*50 mm plank along the edge using glue and screws. It is 10 cm shorter in length - leave 5 cm on each edge. When screwing the bar, we make sure that the edges are aligned accurately. We drill a hole for each self-tapping screw - close to the edge so that the wood does not burst. In addition, we make a hole in the cap larger diameter- they must be hidden.

Since the adhesive joint in this case is firmly bonded, you don’t have to wait for the glue to dry.

From a 25*100 mm board we cut slats to fit the width of the mattress (you can again add 1-2 cm). They are attached to the just made planks with an emphasis. The installation step is 10 cm, for each plank there are 2 screws on each side. A hole is pre-drilled for each self-tapping screw (the diameter of the drill is 1-2 cm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw), the head should go into the wood.

The holes for fasteners are covered with putty and sanded after drying. Cutouts are made in the outer planks for installing legs.

DIY children's bed: assembly

We finally seal all chips and defects on the visible parts of the bed with putty, and after drying, sand it until smooth. Then we prime and paint it in the chosen color. After painting, all that remains is to connect the backrests and the base for the mattress and we can consider that the children's bed with their own hands is ready.

You can connect the parts using special fittings - staples and curtains, or simply - by nailing a corner or a block on which to rest the assembled mattress shield.

DIY children's bed assembled

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