DIY timber house projects. House made of timber - we build a warm and beautiful home ourselves

No matter how simple this or that option for building a house may seem, there are many potential problems and simple subtleties that must be taken into account. The construction of one-story buildings has a number of features. When using timber, other specifics are added that cannot be ignored.

Peculiarities

One-story houses made of timber have one exclusively important feature– they are made from elements of a strictly fixed length, which cannot be changed arbitrarily in principle. Only a rational sawing scheme and a careful approach to the layout of parts can somewhat correct the situation. It is important to take into account that from the standard length of the timber brought from the sawmill, you will have to subtract some more, which is spent on cutting.

If one of the walls is made smaller, the remaining lumber must be used in the construction of other planes to avoid wasteful costs. Therefore, the usual approach, according to which a general increase in area makes it easier to place all the necessary objects, does not work here.

Wooden buildings made of timber, if their total area is increased excessively, they begin to resemble a beehive. If you buy a very long beam, you will still need to cut it and carefully work with the remains. The rational length of beams used in floors ranges from 450 to 550 cm. The exact figure depends on the depth of the insert and the type of material used. As a result, detailed diagram must be drawn up before the start of work, and in such a way that not the slightest part of it is changed subsequently.

They begin work by forming a scale model of the house, without taking into account the consumption of material for notching. This makes it much easier to choose a competent layout, sorting through various options.

Later, the model is moved to paper, and the drawing should already include:

• total wall thickness;
• produced hems;
• planned material leftovers;
• total display;
• consumption of forest raw materials.

The response of partitions to changes in humidity and air heating must be synchronized with the rest of the building. Optimally meets this requirement wooden beam a thickness of at least 5 cm. In order for the door blocks to be installed correctly, the thickness of the partitions must be at least 10 cm. This value does not include the finishing layer.

As always, the windows face the brightest side (almost always east or south).

It is imperative to take into account the location of existing and proposed future buildings, even temporary or seasonally used ones. Drawing up a construction plan involves leaving reserve space for the formation of garden paths. Typically, the facades of houses and adjacent buildings are placed on the same line; exceptions are extremely rare. Care should be taken to ensure that the size of all buildings created is proportional. Only when all these points have been worked out does it make sense to determine the target affiliation of individual premises.

Projects

Timber wooden houses much more popular now than classic products in the form of log houses. Even good quality and warmth are no worse if used correctly modern technologies. Still, great attention should be paid to choosing the right material. In most cases, a residential building for permanent residence built from coniferous wood.

Most projects involve the use of pine, which is superior to:

• spruce – for visual beauty;
• fir - by strength;
• larch - for ease of processing and load on the foundation;
• cedar from Siberia - at the total cost of lumber.

Design begins either with a general drawing or with an exemplary photograph of the option you like(explanations may be included). The sketch of a house, both country and urban or located in a cottage community, should be made as detailed as possible, this will simplify the work of designers and then builders. In a large building (10 by 10 or 9 by 12), you can place two bedrooms at once, an additional storage room and divide the sanitary unit without compressing its parts. Attention should be paid to the location of the boiler room and home laundry; In the home of modern responsible people, there is almost always an area for a gym.

Even in houses with dimensions of 6 by 4, you can select an appropriate corner if you very carefully approach the organization of space or provide for the formation of an attic. To make your work easier, after choosing the location and functionality of the rooms, you need to draw corridors that will allow everyone to make their life more convenient. The individual parts of the drawings are connected, and this is how a preliminary diagram is obtained. If the required footage turns out to be too large and does not fit in a small house measuring 6 x 4, you should actively use the space of the second or basement floor.

In small-sized structures they form spiral staircases more often.

A classic 1-story house can also be equipped with an unheated attic. For a dacha building used only seasonally, this option turns out to be quite economically justified. Each floor is listed separately on the drawings, that is, along with the general plan there must also be a floor drawing.

If the developer does not provide such documentation, this is a good reason to at least check his work more carefully. The veranda in a 10 x 10 timber house can cover either one or several facades. Considering the peculiarities of the Russian climate, solutions with large panoramic windows along the entire perimeter are not acceptable everywhere.

On open terrace decorating railings are used, the height of which varies from 100 to 150 cm above the floor. Alternatively, a similar lifting of timber can be used, from which the pattern is carefully cut. Open extensions in a 7 by 8 house can have glazing, this helps protect the room from precipitation. The type of roof is selected individually, taking into account the characteristics of the territory and design nuances. In most cases, a gable gable roof is installed over structures 9 x 9 and 10 x 10 m.

The advantage is obvious: installation is carried out without specialized tools, and the material is relatively cheap and reliable for a long time. The hip roof is used relatively rarely, because its equipment is complex and expensive, sometimes requiring the involvement of specialists. But in terms of reliability and stability after installation, such a scheme has no equal. In addition, it is considered the most attractive in appearance and can withstand even strong gusts of wind.

Log houses with a garage are planned in such a way that the built-in or attached parking area protects the coldest part of the house from the outside.

Important: roofing structures should be made light because load bearing capacity The walls are relatively weak. Excessive load almost inevitably leads to deformation of both joists and rafters. A calculation of the probable overloads of the structure must be carried out. The rafter system is assembled thanks to grooves and protrusions prepared in advance. Next, the side beams of the top row are mounted; to tie them together, a beam with a cross section of 15 x 10 cm is used.

Construction

You can build a one-story house from timber with your own hands quite easily. Most professionals suggest using 150 x 150 mm timber for this purpose, however, if the goal is to save money and avoid hiring workers, you can reduce one edge to 100 mm. When choosing a suitable foundation for a log house, you should focus on the instructions in specialized literature. But this does not mean that you can ignore information received from neighbors and from previous owners of the site. If the risk of heaving is low and the water lies deep under the wood, even light supports can be placed on the house.

Mixing concrete manually takes up too much time; it is much more practical to use inexpensive concrete mixers. Buying them will be justified many times over time. When pouring the above-ground part of the tape, it is necessary to use a solution of increased density and install a reinforcing frame. The crowns of the beams are tied with wooden dowels. To save money, you can even use scraps of boards left over from the previous construction (but perhaps from more durable wood). All gaps in the crowns are filled with special insulation materials.

Here you will have to choose either more expensive and practical solutions (ready-made rolls), or money-saving and labor-intensive sphagnum moss. To form jambs, it is necessary to use only even bars, preferably without a single knot. When performing this work, you should focus on the simplest technology, because not every woodworking professional can afford a full-fledged recipe. To make processing of timber easier, a workbench is required.

The initial crown is made “half a tree”; the work requires the use of circular saws. If there is not enough depth, hacksaws are used. It is quite reasonable to leave gaps between the elements; they will allow you to organize the air flow. Placing them at a certain height above the ground increases the efficiency of ventilation. Shims are installed because after the boards rot, replacement will be easier than for the timber of the lower crowns.

The choice of material is the primary problem faced by anyone who decides to build a small, reliable and comfortable house on their own site. The modern building materials market can boast a huge range of raw materials to suit every taste and budget. Most people prefer wood. And it’s not surprising, because wooden beams are an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is presented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with your own hands from profiled timber, since it is the most common and has the simplest installation technology. It is very malleable for processing, which means that you can install electrical wiring, plumbing and sewerage without much difficulty.

Drawing up a plan, preparing materials and tools

Without good project building a house is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take this stage extremely seriously, especially since this is where you can clearly understand where you can save money.

Ideally, you can turn to special design agencies for help. For a fee, they will individually draw up a complete layout of your future home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, soil composition, financial capabilities and, most importantly, personal preferences.

If you do not need any miracle of design thought, then you can build a building using standard options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or you can use one of several 3D editor programs, including FloorPlan3D, CyberMotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed specifically for the layout of houses made of timber. SEMA will help you carry out all the necessary statistical calculations, select the type of rafter system and much more.

The drawing should indicate everything from the overall dimensions of the building and the number of floors to the location of doors and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan is in your hands, you can begin to calculate, if this has not already been done, and select the required materials and tools, including:

• Timber as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut grooves and tenons - bring them, install them - use them, also thanks to the perfectly flat and smooth surface edges there is no need for additional finishing work, or you can buy wooden blanks and make the cuts yourself, there is nothing complicated about it, and you can save a lot of money.

Experts recommend using timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm during construction. But since you have to work alone or with an unqualified assistant, it is better to use material with a cross-section of 150x100 mm. Such timber is much lighter, and the missing volume can be restored in the future by insulating the facade from the outside of the building.

• Insulation.

To save additional money, you can use materials that are, so to speak, “at hand” as insulation. Moss is considered the best among these. It is not difficult to find and process, but in its own way technical specifications it is identical to its artificial counterparts.

• Nails, screws and other fastening structures ( metal corners, wooden dowels and so on).
• Waterproofing material (for example, roofing felt).
• Ready-made concrete solution or the components necessary for its preparation (water, sand, crushed stone, cement).
• Reinforcement (if a strip foundation is planned).
• Saw.
• Jigsaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Construction rubber hammer.
• Roulette.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Circular Saw.
• Pipes for water supply and sewerage.
• Cable for electricity, TV.
• Master OK.
• Caulk.
• Other tools for small and decorative work.

Harvesting wood and moss for construction

To build a warm and cozy home from timber, in addition to knowledge of the technology for laying crowns, it is important to understand which type of wood is best suited for this purpose.

Each species, naturally, has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing you need to pay attention to when choosing lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the wood is fragile, then your house may very soon simply fall apart; if the density is low, then such material can shrink by up to 20 percent, or even more. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, but if the raw materials are under-dried, then it will simply be impossible to work with them; if the raw materials are over-dried, the material will become too unreliable.

Very serious requirements are placed on the walls of the house, as they must provide warmth, comfort and low level noise in the premises, especially since wood is a rather fire-hazardous material that can be deformed due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing timber from coniferous species such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Because of great content resinous substances, conifers are resistant to rotting, cracking and other deformations. Also, trees of this species are very durable, light, and therefore do not create too much load on the foundation.

By choosing softwood timber, you can save money by building a foundation using a simplified system.

If you decide to harvest the wood yourself, then you should know that the humidity coefficient should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will soon begin to appear in the walls, which will require additional processing, and this extra costs effort, time and budget.

When harvesting, take into account the fact that it is better to do this in the winter period of the year (from January to March), since in winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk becomes minimal.

Cut the lumber to the desired shape and size, treat it with an antiseptic and leave it stored out of reach of sun rays dry place. The bars must be stored compactly in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap of 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. To do this, several transverse beams are inserted between them. After lying like this for 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

To keep your home warm in inclement weather, you should think about choosing interventional insulation. Professional builders use modern tape materials, but the price for such pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but only a few varieties are used for construction purposes, among them: sphagnum, cuckoo moss, red moss and peat moss. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the disadvantages is a high flammability, since after drying the moss becomes dry and brittle, for example, when high temperature it can spontaneously ignite, to prevent this it is treated with special means.

Moss must be collected; it can be found in swampy areas - these are long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaves, dried and stored in a dry place for about two weeks. Can be used as bags plastic bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There's nothing wrong with that.

Foundation construction

A high-quality foundation is the key to a reliable, stable and durable home. Since it is he who is the main one load-bearing structure, which must withstand the total weight of the building, such high demands are placed on it.

When building a house from timber, three main types of foundations are used:

1. Pile-screw.
2. Gnezdovoy.
3. Tape.

The choice of foundation type depends mainly on the soil on which the house is planned to be built. This issue must be resolved at the planning stage. You should conduct a soil analysis, you can also ask your neighbors what foundation their houses are on, or look for information in documents about the purchase of a plot or other reference literature.

If the soil is heaving or watery, and also if you plan to use the house only seasonally, and not live there permanently, then use one of the first two options. If it includes large quantities sand or clay, then a strip foundation is suitable.

The first thing to start with is clearing the area of ​​debris, thickets, bushes and other objects that may interfere. Immediately before digging it is necessary to mark. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along load-bearing walls, and the thread that is pulled between them - everything is simple. Subsequent actions depend on the selected type of foundation.

Pile-screw foundation

After the area is cleared and ready for further manipulation, we proceed to excavation work. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles from a specialized store, since it is quite difficult to build such structures by hand. Choose supports of the same size and always have drills already welded at one end.

Thanks to the special design, the piles are easy to install yourself, while keeping an eye on the angle of inclination. A building magnetic level can help you with this. Also, if there was no cap on the screws, you will need to install it yourself. To do this, use a processed sheet of metal 25x25 cm and 5-6 mm thick.

Nest foundation

The nested foundation differs only in that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are used, into which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the territory has been marked, it is necessary to dig holes at selected points along the perimeter with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. A layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, moistened and compacted tightly. After this, support structures are inserted into them at right angles, and if necessary, a solution is poured inside and into the space around them at the bottom. The remaining gaps between the supports and the ground are filled with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.

There is also an option to install formwork in the dug holes and fill it with concrete mortar to ground level; we recommend using M400 cement in a ratio of 1:3 to sand. After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is removed and aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are laid on top.

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the vast majority of cases, for example, if you are planning to build a heavy two- or more-story house.

The first step is to dig a trench 10-15 centimeters wider than the thickness of the walls and 50-70 cm deep. It should be located at a height of at least a meter from the groundwater level.

There are several options for strip foundations, including:

• Brick.
• Concrete.
• Stone.

For any of them it is necessary to prepare a foundation. A layer (10 cm) of sand is placed at the bottom of the trench, moistened with a small amount of water and compacted thoroughly; if necessary, sand can be poured in two layers. A layer (15-20 cm) of crushed stone is poured on top of it, broken bricks or small stones.

By the way, geotextiles can be pre-laid at the bottom of the trench, and along the outer edge you can install thermal insulation material– this will help prevent freezing of the shallow foundation.

If you plan to build a brick or stone base, a little before reaching the top of the foundation, you can install formwork on the resulting cushion. It is necessary to pour a layer of mortar inside to the level of the ground surface and compact it. To increase stability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already on top, after the solution has completely hardened, bricks or stones are laid, which can be ordered, or used independently found near any body of water. Another reinforcement belt is installed on top of the masonry and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and leveled.

If it is planned concrete plinth, then the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, thickness 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from wood, then the material should be free of cracks, chips, unevenness and other defects.

The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between the rows is 5-10 cm. The result should be a mesh with cells of 15-20 sq. cm. The rods are tied together with rigid wire, the whole structure is poured cement mortar, which can either be purchased or prepared personally. We recommend investing in a concrete mixer - this will save you time and nerves, since mixing cement by hand is quite long and difficult. The formwork must first be moistened with water or wrapped in a layer of plastic film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before the solution hardens. A vibrating hammer will help with this, or you can simply punch holes in several places; later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation is left to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which and several more days, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent cracking of the foundation. Don't forget to make holes for communication wiring.

Construction and insulation of walls and floors

The crowns of the first row are connected to each other traditionally, regardless of the method of connecting subsequent rows, “half-tree” is a fairly reliable and easy-to-make type of end notches, and they are not laid directly on the foundation, but on a lining of small slats located transversely to the beam itself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the slats can be filled polyurethane foam. To cut the end notch, you can use a hacksaw, and use a chisel to remove excess material.

So, if the slats rot, they will be easier to replace than a whole row of timber. The boards also need to be treated with an antiseptic or primer to prevent the development of fungus and various microorganisms, and laid out on a covered surface in two layers waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt, foundation.

The beam of the first row should have a little big sizes than the crowns of the remaining rows, for example, if a material with a section of 150x150 mm is used for the walls, then for the first row use the option with a section of 200x200 mm.

It will be possible to mount logs for the subfloor on the lining of the planks using steel angles and nails or screws. It is necessary to attach to them the so-called cranial beam, on which the edged board for subfloor. A layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the draft, and on top of it insulation boards, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam or any other modern analogue. The next layer is a vapor barrier, and after that is the finished floor.

All subsequent rows are laid identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

• “With a remainder” is when a small part of the beam protrudes from its two ends.
• "Without a trace."

The picture below shows different types of end notches.

This manipulation can be done using a circular saw or jigsaw. Options “A” and “D” (“without remainder”) are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult to install. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. Option “Z” is used to connect internal load-bearing walls. Also note that tongue-and-groove connections must leave a gap of half a centimeter for the insulation.

The rows are fastened together using wooden or metal dowels. We recommend using the latter, since during drying the lumber will not crack, which will ensure the durability of your building.

Using dowels for fastening, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill so that the beam of one row of dowels goes through, and the beam of the bottom row only partially, or you can use short dowels; for this, holes are cut out on two opposite sides, a dowel is driven into one with a hammer, and simply inserted into the next. Remember that the dowels should not be located on top of each other. To make the structure as stable as possible, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your house turn out to be longer than the timber, it’s not a problem. In this case, you need to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one beam, and at the end of the second a rectangular protrusion right in the center, so you get a tongue-and-groove joint.

The space between the crowns can be insulated using pre-collected and dried moss and tow. The tow is laid across the beams, and the moss is simply thrown on top. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will stick out - this is not a problem, since caulking work is planned in the future, and this, in turn, will provide maximum thermal insulation.

To ensure that the bars of one row are at the same height, we use a rubber hammer, tapping it along the walls after installing each beam. The plane is used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the unevenness of the bottom row it is impossible to install the timber of the top row.

*Important! Don't forget to alternate corner joints.

The last two rows of crowns are not fastened, since in the future, after shrinkage, the rafter system will be installed. To do this, you will have to temporarily dismantle these two rows.

To design door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all the rows, and then, after making a mark, cut out the necessary holes with a jigsaw, or use beams of such length in advance that they will subsequently form windows and doors. Remember that the size of the openings must exceed the size of the door or window itself, since it is still necessary to leave space for installing window and door frames. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm above the windows and doors. This is necessary so that in the future, when the timber shrinks, it does not damage the structure of the windows or doors. It will need to be filled with liquid insulation.

Roof roof

After the last row of crowns has been erected, the building must be covered with roofing felt or slate and allowed to settle. The shrinkage period takes up to 6 months on average, only after which you can proceed to installing the roof and facing work.

Exists great amount roof variations. The most reliable and stable is considered to be a four-slope or hip roof, used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to erect it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a gable roof. We will briefly describe the installation steps and the main elements.

First, you need to insulate the surface of the walls from moisture, using, for example, roofing felt. It must be laid in two layers. After attaching the Mauerlat - the base for the rafter system, in which special cutouts are made, with the help of which they are attached rafter legs. The top row of crowns, pre-treated with an antiseptic, will serve as the Mauerlat.

The rafters themselves, depending on the area of ​​the house, should be made of timber with a section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200x50 mm. They should not protrude beyond the house by more than half a meter; if more, additional supports will be installed. Installed on rafter legs wooden sheathing from slats 5-6 cm thick and 10-20 cm wide with a pitch that depends on the roofing material (tiles - planks are laid end to end, if slate or corrugated board - at a distance of 30 cm from each other). Sometimes a counter-lattice is installed, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. Insulation, vapor and waterproofing are laid in the resulting space between the two sheathings.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling joists, which are attached using the tongue-and-groove method to the top row of timber. The remaining manipulations are identical to the floor. You can additionally lay insulation and insulation between the finished and rough ceilings. In the future, this can reduce heat loss by up to 30%.

So that the roof is stable, strong, withstands strong winds and lasts long years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as crossbars, struts, tightening, racks and others. All of them are attached using hardware, such as steel angles and self-tapping screws.

Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, an opening for the chimney and the attic, if one is planned. The roof fronts can be covered with clapboard or decorative block house.

Remember! Any roof will require repairs over time. Therefore, in order to reduce financial costs, experts recommend checking the coating annually for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (crossbars, racks, etc.), and the leak is eliminated by replacing rotten roofing material.

Let's summarize

The last stage of construction work is the installation of entrance and interior doors and windows. If necessary, work is carried out on insulation and decorative finishing of walls either inside or outside the house. They provide electricity, water, heat, and connect the sewerage system.

Now that you know the main stages of building a house from timber on your own, as well as ways to save money, you can begin building a warm, cozy and reliable home that will warm and delight you for many years.

Wooden houses are popular among private developers planning to build a cozy home for their family. Recently, such buildings are increasingly being constructed from timber. The technology of their construction is simple and clear.

Brus - let's arrange a comfortable family nest ourselves!

Wooden beams are ideal for self-construction of private low-rise buildings. This material has a beautiful appearance, excellent performance characteristics, it provides a microclimate favorable for humans in a dwelling under construction. A beam is understood as a log that is hewn on four sides. The result is an easy-to-use wood product that can have different cross-sections.

In most cases, private developers use rectangular or square shape. With the help of such hewn logs, it is easy to obtain perfectly smooth wall and floor surfaces with the same thickness without additional tricks. Subsequently, such bases are easily lined from the outside and inside, which allows you to create the most unusual and striking designs of wooden residential buildings.

The timber house is being built in short time. All work is carried out by 2-3 people without construction experience and special knowledge. For the construction of the structure we are interested in, it is allowed to use timber made from various types of wood. Products made from pine delight with their beautiful texture and wide selection of color shades. Spruce beams are optimal for creating visually flawless surfaces. This is due to their uniform texture and color. It is better not to use hewn fir logs for the construction of a private house. They look great. But the durability and strength of fir products is far from ideal.

Coniferous wood is affordable. Larch beams are more expensive. But such products are considered truly practical. Houses made of larch last for decades, they are not afraid of moisture, and delight the eye with their attractive appearance. Theoretically, residential buildings can also be built from birch beams. Their price is significantly lower than the cost of larch products. But the quality of the finished structure will be significantly lower. All home craftsmen who decide to save on the cost of building materials should remember this.

Structures made of profiled and laminated timber - what is the difference?

We can build a house from timber using profiled or glued products. The technology for their use is almost completely the same. Profiled timber is more popular. It is characterized by a minimum moisture content and uniform thickness.

Such products are obtained from solid logs that undergo several stages of mechanical processing. The profiled timber is equipped with tenons and grooves. These elements provide high-quality connection of individual products to each other. Also, the tongue and groove system forms a thermal lock. Due to it, even the slightest cold is not able to penetrate inside the wooden house.

Glued laminated timber is made from pre-dried lamellas - individual planks with different thicknesses and lengths. Such products are cheaper than profiled ones. At the same time, the durability of buildings made from them is the same. True, on one condition. Drying of glued products must be carried out using a special technology. If you do not adhere to it, the reliability of the finished house will not be the highest. The connection of laminated veneer lumber is also carried out according to the groove-tenon principle. Due to this, installation problems do not arise for people without experience in construction work.

Rounded timber is considered a novelty in the private construction market. It is not yet used very often, since its price is quite high. At the same time, houses made from timber of this type are distinguished by unique durability, quality and high environmental friendliness. Rounded material is produced in the form of cylindrical products turned from logs (there cannot be any other cross-section). Their length reaches 470 cm. This makes it possible to build truly durable houses, which, in addition, do not require additional insulation. Visually, the building made of rounded wood has the appearance of a fabulous, chic house. It doesn’t even need to be specially lined with any finishing materials. He looks great anyway.

Proper arrangement of the foundation for the longevity of the home

In order for a log house made of timber to be as reliable as possible, you should take care of the construction for it quality basis. The type of foundation is determined by the design of the home (number of floors, total area, etc.), as well as the characteristics of the soil on the site. For example, country house with a modest quadrature is usually built on a solid slab base. But it is better to build a large-scale structure with an underground floor on a strip foundation. A foundation on screw piles is recommended for houses that are built on loose, silty, and overly wet soils.

In practice, most often private developers choose a strip foundation. It is easy to arrange it yourself, without using special equipment. Moreover, the finished base turns out to be very reliable, capable of withstanding any load. Step-by-step instructions for building such a foundation are given below:

1. 1. Based on the selected house design, we mark it on the ground. We decide on the places where the internal load-bearing walls will be located.
2. 2. Dig ditches along the marked lines. Important! The width should be 10 cm greater than the thickness interior walls. The depth of the ditches is 0.6–0.8 m. Additionally, we dig a foundation pit for arranging the basement, focusing on the dimensions of the latter.
3. 3. Fill the bottom of the ditches with sand and gravel (a layer of each material is 10 cm). Moisten the resulting cake and compact it well. Pour the concrete mixture onto the sand and gravel bed. Its thickness is about 5 cm.
4. 4. We build removable formwork. We will need to assemble boards 2.5 cm thick into shields. Above the level of the ditches, these structures must rise 40–60 cm (the specific indicator depends on the height of the foundation laid in construction project). WITH outside We fix the knocked down panels with support boards, and install spacers on the inside. In this case, the formwork will not move when pouring concrete.

After this, we reinforce the formwork structure. The operation is performed using metal rods with a cross-section of 1–1.2 cm. We lay them in two layers along and across the formwork. We fix the intersection points of the reinforcement with tying wire. Note! Hardware must not touch the formwork. Be sure to leave a free space of 5–6 cm between them.

Now we prepare the concrete mixture for pouring. An ordinary solution is suitable - 3 parts sand to 1 part M400 cement. You can make a batch with special additives (gravel, crushed stone). In this case, you need to take 4 parts of sand and additional components, and 1 part of cement. We load the specified materials into a concrete mixer, obtain the required composition, and feed it into the formwork. Here you need to ensure that no air bubbles appear in the foundation. The problem is solved by using a deep cement vibrator. Leave the poured base for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 20 days.

Construction of a house - we strictly adhere to technology!

After the foundation has hardened, we proceed directly to building the house with our own hands. We install the first crown of the log house on insulation, which we lay on the base in this order:

• bitumen heated to a liquid consistency;
• layer of roofing material;
• bitumen again;
• another layer of roofing felt.

The insulation should be about 0.3 m wider than the base. And the timber used must be treated with an antiseptic solution. A special composition protects the wood from insect pests and moisture, significantly increasing the service life of the timber. Some craftsmen apply antiseptic to already erected buildings. You can't do that. We impregnate each product separately and only after that we build the house. Then we are guaranteed to achieve penetration of the composition into all hard to reach places(for example, at the joints of individual logs). It is also advisable to further process wood materials fire retardant. It will protect the wood from burning.

After laying the waterproofing and processing the wood, we firmly fix the backing board to the foundation. It is advisable to use a larch product with a thickness of 5–6 cm. We attach the board to the base of the building with anchors directly through the insulating pie. We immediately nail the ebb to the installed lining. It will drain water away from the building during rain.

Sometimes you can hear the opinion that it is not necessary to install a backing board. What needs to be understood here is important thing: The board acts as a buffer between the crown of the structure and its base. During the operation of the house, sooner or later we will have to repair its lower part. This is where we find out why the board is needed. For repairs, it will be enough for us to replace only it without touching the crown. The benefit, you see, is obvious.

By the way, repairs to the lower part of wooden house construction will not be required soon if 1 cm thick slats are laid on the lining board. We attach them to the lining across the base, maintaining a distance between individual elements of 0.3 m. As a result, we obtain an effective ventilation gap. We mount the first crown on it (beams measuring 9x14, 14x14, 15x15 cm). The front sides of the products used can be convex or flat. It does not matter. Corner connections We perform the first circuit in half a tree. We cut logs into this crown for arranging the floor.

Assembling the log house - now everything will go like clockwork!

After laying the first crown, we proceed to install the next circuit. It should be installed on a jute pad. It eliminates the risk of mold formation between wooden elements log house and condensation of its façade. We buy jute at any construction store. It is best to use gaskets in the form of needle-punched tapes. They are released different thicknesses. Finding the right material is easy. We fasten the lining with a construction stapler. Do not use flax or tow instead of jute. It is impossible to lay them evenly, which means that small gaps will remain in the log house in any case.

We connect the beams together using a tongue-and-groove system, obtaining a truly rigid and reliable fastening. In cases where it is carried out from products natural humidity(not dried in special chambers), you need to additionally fasten the crowns together with wooden dowels. We place them in a checkerboard pattern every two circuits, maintaining a distance of 100 cm between the fasteners. We install the pins to a depth of approximately 30 cm.

We collect the rest of the crowns in the same way. In places where doors and windows will be located, we leave part of the beams along the length of the wall. We will get a kind of lattice. There is no need to cut out all the products in advance to fit the parameters of the openings. In this case, the lumber will bend during the shrinkage process. This will cause a change in the geometry of the house being built. We will cut out the excess pieces with a chainsaw only after the building has completely settled.

If the beam is shorter than the walls, you will have to properly extend the lumber.

We will need to connect individual products to each other. The procedure is performed using the dressing method. We shift the seam (vertical) of each next crown in relation to the previous one. For high-quality articulation of joints, we cut half a tree along the beam. It is also advisable to strengthen the connection made with dowels. The roof of a timber home can be anything. The easiest way is to cover a built house with a roof with two slopes. Such roofs are built quickly and have excellent performance characteristics. More on this later.

Gable roof - how to build an aesthetic and practical roof?

We construct the Mauerlat from 15x15 cm timber. We fix it to the crown with anchor bolts, dowels, and brackets. The rafters will rest on the mauerlat. It is advisable to connect them together using a sled. They are a special steel mount consisting of two parts. During the shrinkage of the log house, the sled allows the rafters to change their angle. Important point. When using other fastening options (for example, a triangular cut made on the Mauerlat to engage the rafters), the likelihood of deformation of the structure during shrinkage increases significantly.

The rafter system itself is made in the form of a frame that determines the configuration of the roof. The latter is indicated in the project according to which we are building the house. The length of the rafters, the pitch of their installation and the angle of inclination are also set there. Most often, the rafter system is constructed from timber 5–7 cm thick and 16–18 cm wide. These elements are connected to each other with metal plates and in a tongue-and-groove pattern.

Built truss structure cover with a layer of vapor barrier, and on top we make a sheathing and a counter-lattice from wooden slats 20 mm thick. Let's take into account the following. If we install slate sheets or profiled products on the roof, the sheathing is mounted in increments of 0.3 m. And for laying tiles, the frame should be made solid. We install the sheathing across the rafters. We use nails for fastening. We fill the counter-lattice along the rafters.

We insulate gable roof mineral wool. We use heat insulation in the form of mats for these purposes. We place them between the rafters, and then cover them with the selected cladding - plasterboard, clapboard. Insulation is always carried out if attic space it is planned to be converted into residential. In other cases, it is not necessary to install thermal insulation.

Final work – making the house perfect

At the assembly stage of construction, we arrange the floors in the form of rough-type flooring, laid on beams or joists. After completion of construction, we make a finishing and rough foundation. Be sure to insulate the floors in the attic and basement level (mineral wool will do). We finish the bases with laminate or other materials.

We carry out insulation and cladding of a residential building made of timber after its shrinkage. The period required for this varies widely. Structures made of laminated veneer lumber can be finished 3–4 months after their construction, those made of profiled timber – after 5–6. If wet material was used, it will take a year to a year and a half for the house to shrink. Will have to wait.

After shrinkage, you need to caulk the timber. The operation is long, labor-intensive and unpleasant. We will need to manually seal all the gaps and microscopic cracks found outside and inside the house. For caulking we use pieces of jute fiber. It is recommended to sheathe the ceiling in a timber dwelling wooden clapboard. Other materials can also be used. We finish the ceiling surface strictly after caulking all the cracks.

Often, the external and internal decoration of wooden log houses is done as simply as possible - the bases are painted. Nuance. We select compositions for painting that not only satisfy individual aesthetic needs, but are also able to protect the timber from negative influence ultraviolet radiation and moisture.

Choose a suitable log house project from profiled or laminated timber. And build your dream home yourself!

Busy lifestyle in big city makes you want to get out into nature as often as possible to breathe clean air and take a break from the bustle of the city. For a comfortable stay you need a good, well-equipped home. Having bought a plot of land in an ecologically clean area, you can build a house from timber with your own hands, providing it with individual water supply, heating and a sewerage system. In this article we will tell you how to build a house from timber without construction experience, from the foundation to the roof.

Home design

Making a heating system yourself is not difficult. Work in this direction begins after the installation of windows and doors. The choice of heating systems for a private home depends on the nearby centralized communication systems. The most simple option There will be a water circuit installed with parallel connection of a gas, electric and solid fuel boiler. This is a guarantee of warmth in the house under any weather conditions and disasters.

To drain wastewater, you need to install a septic tank yourself.

It is impossible to imagine life in a house without electricity. Installation electric cable, wiring and connection of lamps and household appliances It is better to entrust it to a highly qualified specialist.

When all the work is completed, you can invite your friends to a housewarming party. A house built independently has a special aura. It is always cozy and warm.

Video

We invite you to see all the steps described above. Watch the video.

Land owners are increasingly choosing to build houses from timber. An additional advantage of this solution is that, if desired, each owner can build a house from timber with his own hands. By building such a house with your own hands, you get a high-quality, durable, reliable and comfortable home. The actual technology for constructing such buildings is extremely simple and understandable. The only skills you will need for the job are experience in handling a gasoline or electric saw.

A house made of timber looks very beautiful. But in order for it to be reliable, the timber must be treated with special means at the construction stage.

What kind of wood can be used to build a log house?

Before you start building a house from timber with your own hands, you need to choose the highest quality and suitable material for the job.

The main qualities of wood are strength and density. For some breeds, these indicators reach the level of most metals, so quite high demands are placed on houses made of timber with your own hands. The walls of the building must be durable and strong. In addition, they must provide good heat and sound insulation. But wood also has a number of disadvantages. The main ones are low fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformation, which is especially pronounced during the first few years after completion of construction.

Coniferous wood is the best choice for building a log house. The material has a long service life and is resistant to rotting; it does not crack and does not exert a significant load on the foundation. It is important to remember that not only competent technology construction, but the material chosen according to all the rules allows you to build good house from timber with your own hands. So the wood should be as wear-resistant and dense as possible.

Solid or profiled timber?

The timber can be profiled or solid. To build a house, you can use both the first and second options. To choose a specific type of material, consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each.

Profiled timber for building a house requires the presence of a profile. It may have tenons and crown grooves. Such connections are installed along the entire length of the material, after which the surface is ground. The timber for building a house is supplied ready-made. The owner can only assemble the building from the received elements. Among the advantages of houses built from profiled timber are:

1. High resistance to deformation.
2. Relatively low construction costs.
3. Low complexity of construction work.

The material has a precise shape, allowing all construction activities to be carried out in the shortest possible time and with the most high quality. Houses made from this material have a more interesting appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of profiled timber include the smooth surface of the walls. They don’t even need additional sheathing, because... they look great anyway. Walls made of this material are protected from rotting, because... melt and rainwater will not collect in them. The profile is calculated so that precipitation does not get into the crown joints.

After shrinking a house built from profiled timber, you will not need to waste time and effort on caulking. This material provides excellent wind protection and high thermal insulation, because... the crowns have connections of sufficient density for this.

House from solid timber has a low level of thermal insulation.

But profiled timber also has its drawbacks. Firstly, it does not tolerate negative atmospheric influences very well. Secondly, the material supports combustion. In order to increase bio- and fire-retardant properties, wood must be treated with special impregnations.

The natural moisture of the material leads to cracks appearing on the timber during the warm season. Therefore, it is best to immediately look for a material whose moisture content has been reduced to at least 20% by chamber drying. The thickness of the walls of a house made of profiled timber will not be enough for comfortable use. It will be necessary to perform additional external insulation. Once construction is completed, it will not be possible to make any additions or change the layout.

Study the features of solid timber. Despite the fact that it does not have the most presentable appearance, the material is still quite widely used in construction. The main advantage is the relatively low cost. When preparing wood, its natural moisture content is preserved, which eliminates the need for additional measures and reduces the duration of the preparatory stage.

Solid timber can be purchased at any specialized market. You can choose exactly what you need without any problems. On average, it takes a week from order to delivery to the construction site. The simplicity and speed of production of the material allowed us to reduce the time so much. One more big advantage Using solid timber to build a house means there is no need to use special equipment.

But it also has its drawbacks. These include:

1. Higher costs for Finishing work. To obtain a beautiful and complete appearance of the building, it must be covered with siding or clapboard.
2. When choosing timber you need to be extremely careful, because... Unscrupulous sellers offer bad timber.
3. Fungus may begin to develop on the material. The reason is natural humidity and failure to undergo special drying. You, of course, can treat the timber with special impregnations to destroy and prevent the return of the fungus, but this will require spending additional money and time.
4. The inter-crown seams are blown out very strongly. A house made of solid timber is characterized by a lower level of thermal insulation.
5. After shrinking, the wood cracks. To prevent such damage, the walls have to be sheathed on both sides.

Preparation of materials, tools and project

After you decide on suitable look timber, proceed to purchasing materials, collecting tools and drawing up a project. If you wish, you can purchase the material in ready-made form. All bars will be cut to your size. The material will already have grooves, and all you have to do is lay out the building like a construction set.

If you want to save money, you can prepare it yourself. If you choose this method, pay attention to the following factors:

1. The wood must be healthy.
2. Through and large cracks are strictly unacceptable.
3. The wood should not show any signs of beetle damage.
4. Before use, the material must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

The work of building a house from timber will require the use of a whole set of tools, namely:

1. Gasoline saw. An electric one will do instead.
2. Electric drills.
3. Level.
4. Measuring tape.
5. Hammer.
6. Axe.
7. Nails, screws, jute.
8. Electric screwdriver.
9. Hammer.

After preparing the materials and tools, start drawing up a project for a house made of timber. During this process, you need to accurately calculate all the necessary calculations. You can create a project yourself, there is nothing complicated about it. If you wish, you can contact a specialized construction company. The company’s specialist will make the project in compliance with all rules, taking into account seismic resistance and other important factors.

What should be the foundation of a log house?

Construction of a strip foundation.

Having prepared or received a custom project, proceed to arranging the foundation. A house made of timber must be built on the basis of sufficient reliability and strength.

When choosing the type of foundation, consider the following parameters:

1. Main characteristics of the soil on the site.
2. Estimated load on the foundation.
3. Design features.

A log house can be built on a concrete or wooden foundation. Most often, a concrete foundation is poured, a brick plinth is laid on it, and the construction of timber walls begins on top of this structure. If you want to have a completely wooden structure, you can make the base out of wood.

A timber house can be built on:

1. Deep foundation.
2. Shallow foundation.
3. Belt type support.
4. Columnar base.

In the vast majority of cases, a shallow or strip foundation is prepared for a house made of timber. A laying depth of about 50-70 cm will be sufficient.

Step-by-step instructions for building walls

After arranging the foundation, proceed to laying the timber. The most important thing is to decide optimal technology assemblies. The timber walls are laid out in rows. Each new layer is laid on top of the previous one until a wall of the required height is obtained.

The bars have special grooves, which ensure a tight fit of the logs to each other. The grooves are insulated with special thermal insulation. In order to increase the strength of the walls, it is imperative to use spikes to connect the beams.

A simplified version involves the use of untreated pine timber. The bars themselves weigh quite little, so you don’t even have to call in special lifting equipment for construction.

In the process of self-construction of timber walls, it is important to take into account a number of basic requirements. First, all seams must be caulked. This will prevent the wind from blowing through the walls. Secondly, the walls themselves are treated with special impregnations to increase fire resistance and strength.

Roof, floor and finishing installation

Quite often, developers try to save money on building a house from timber. And they do this with the help of a roof, using some cheap materials, for example, ondulin. But saving on material when constructing a roof is categorically not recommended. This part of the house may have various options execution, it all depends on the rafters and roofing systems. It is recommended to equip each site using boards of different sizes. For example, rafters are assembled from 150x40 mm boards, and 100x40 mm material is used to install braces and racks.

When arranging a floor and choosing a floor covering, they are also guided primarily by personal preferences. The only mandatory point is waterproofing the ceiling and floor. In particular, you need to carefully approach the issue of waterproofing basements and basements. The floor is waterproofed before screeding or leveling. IN wooden house can be used:

1. Roll waterproofing.
2. Coating materials.
3. Penetrating moisture protection.
4. Jellied compositions.

Plinths and basements can be waterproofed with your own hands without any problems. There will be no difficulties when treating the floors of other parts of the house. Choose the material that is most suitable for you and begin installing it in accordance with the technology.

Floor is one of the main components of the interior of a home. The aesthetics of the interior design directly depends on its design. Therefore, the choice of coating also needs to be approached competently. There is a wide range of products available on the modern market floor coverings, namely:

1. Wood based coatings. This category includes parquet boards and parquet.
2. Cork covering.
3. Laminated panels.
4. Linoleum.
5. Floor tiles.
6. Carpets of various types.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For wooden floor Wood-based coatings are best suited: parquet and laminate are the most best option, this material is simple and easy to install.

As for more modern materials, then you won’t have any problems with their installation. Focus on your taste preferences and available budget.

Finally, work is carried out on the installation of interior doors, partitions and window frames. The subfloor is laid, then the selected insulation, the finishing component of the floor and the finishing coating are installed. The ceiling is being finished. At this stage, it is necessary to equip water supply, heating, sewerage and energy systems.

Exterior decoration is selected by the owner independently. If desired, the house can be left without any exterior finishing, if the appearance and quality of the source material allow this. If you want to get a different look, you can paint the house, cover it with siding, clapboard, or trim it with other available materials.

It is in this sequence that the construction of a house made of timber is carried out. By following the technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable structure without involving third-party specialists. Good luck!