Effective insulation for external walls. The best way to insulate the walls of a house from the outside - advice from experienced experts
















After the introduction of a new standard for the thermal protection of buildings, insulation has become relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of older buildings don't have to do anything, but they must be prepared to pay rising energy bills. And designs for new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 02/23/2003. There are several technologies that make it possible to ensure standard indicators for buildings made of any materials. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the exterior walls of a house in each case.


The house must be kept warm Source prolesa.com.ua

Why external insulation and not internal

The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the useful volume of residential and office premises.

Builders are guided by the standard according to which insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Insulation from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can only be carried out in exceptional cases. For example, when work on the outside cannot be carried out due to the design features or the facade “belongs” to a house that is classified as an architectural monument.

Video description

The result of proper internal insulation of a house in the video:

Internal insulation of walls is allowed provided that a durable and continuous vapor-tight layer is created on the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor will enter the insulation or onto the surface cold wall, then the appearance of condensation is inevitable. And this is due to the “dew point”, which will move either inside the layer thermal insulation material, or on the border between it and the wall.


Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against the wall getting wet - water vapor will find its way into the film joints and fastening points Source domvpavlino.ru

That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory recommendations - from the outside.

Popular thermal insulation materials

From a large list of thermal insulation materials, we can highlight several of the most popular ones and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and relatively low cost.

  • Expanded polystyrene

Better known as "foam". To be precise, in addition to slabs, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.

Its thermal conductivity varies with density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. Its popularity is explained by its availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, and low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.

Polystyrene foam is considered low-flammable, and those marked PSB-S are self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But during a fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of “breathable” materials when insulating walls.


Insulating the outside of a house with polystyrene foam Source makemone.ru

  • Extruded polystyrene foam

It differs from polystyrene foam by a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the raw material is the same polystyrene granules. In some respects it is superior to its “relative”. It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), on average, thermal conductivity is 20-30% lower (Table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), vapor permeability is several times lower and compressive strength is higher. Thanks to this set of qualities, it is the best material for insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the “zero” floor. The disadvantages of EPS are the same as those of polystyrene foam, and it costs more.


EPPS is usually made “colored” Source footing.ru

  • Stone, also known as basalt, cotton wool

This is a subtype of mineral wool, the raw materials of which are rocks of stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured by fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn or smolder (flammability class NG). Refers to “breathable” materials - according to the new standard this sounds like low “breathing resistance”.


Mineral wool mats for wall insulation must be “hard” Source konveyt.ru

But there are other materials for insulating a house outside, which, although used less frequently, have their own advantages.

Thermal insulation materials - new products on the market

Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are a little more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.

  • Foamed polyurethane

A common polymer material for “household use”. Also well known as foam rubber for furniture (in the form of “soft” mats) or as polyurethane foam for sealing cracks. When insulating, it is also used in the form of slabs or sprayed insulation.

Polyurethane foam slabs have low tear-off holding properties, so they are not used in “wet façade” systems.

But this is a common thermal insulation material for making sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. This panel is thermal insulation board with a decorative layer already applied at the factory (clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second – three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: dowels/anchors ( open method) or your own hidden fastening system.


Three-layer thermal panel Source zafasad.ru

Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, the only technology for applying such a layer was using professional installations working with two-component composition(mixing occurs during spraying).


Spraying polyurethane foam onto the base of a house Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Now in Russia, for household use, the production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), insulating 1 m2 with your own hands is much cheaper than concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises that use professional equipment. And this option for insulating a house from the outside is quite attractive if literally 2-3 cm of the thermal insulation layer is missing.


Insulation using sprayed polyurethane foam "Teplis" Source m.2gis.kz

  • Ecowool

A relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology for insulating enclosing surfaces is based on cellulose fiber material, which is applied to the walls using a special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying with an adhesive binder onto the wall with installed sheathing (and subsequent installation facade panels).

From traditional materials we can mention glass wool (a subtype of mineral wool), but due to its fragility and the formation of tiny “dust” with sharp edges during installation, it has been replaced stone wool, safe both during installation and operation.

The better way to insulate a house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

If you follow the regulatory documents, there are two options for how to insulate a house from the outside in terms of the number of structural and thermal insulation layers: two-layer and three-layer. Moreover, in the second case, external paneling or plaster is not considered an independent layer, although they thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the outer (third) layer is the structural material.


Brick cladding with insulation Source pinterest.ru

In addition to this classification, there is also a division based on the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.

  • brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible connections), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
  • wooden houses - enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and a ventilated air gap;
  • frame houses with thin-sheet cladding - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with a ventilated and non-ventilated air gap;
  • blocks of cellular concrete– two-layer walls with brick cladding, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.
In practice, for insulation low-rise buildings such a variety of solutions comes down to the choice between a “wet” or curtained façade. Although, it is those recommended by the standard that are considered as thermal insulation materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS as an alternative).

But each case has its own preferences.

Video description

The video shows how to choose how to insulate a house from the outside:

The better way to insulate a house from the outside, depending on the wall material

For insulation brick house There are no restrictions when choosing technology. Different options can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:

  • Facing brick. This is a classic three-layer wall construction with flexible ties. Even when using polystyrene foam, a ventilated air layer is provided to ventilate water vapor and prevent the wall materials from getting wet.
  • Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The first option is preferable - ceramic bricks vapor permeability is higher than that of foam. And according to clause 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the arrangement of layers should facilitate the weathering of water vapor to prevent moisture accumulation.


Scheme of a “wet facade” Source deskgram.net

  • Ventilated facade. With lining wall panels or large-format porcelain tiles on the sheathing. Traditional insulation for everyone curtain facades- mineral wool.


Scheme of a ventilated facade Source sk-optimus.com.ua

Wooden houses (logs or beams) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using curtain façade technology.

For them, you can find examples of using polystyrene foam and plaster using the “wet facade” method. In this case, a ventilated gap is created between the wall and the foam boards using spacer sheathing. Although in this case the main advantage of the “wet facade” is lost - simplicity of design and installation.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation

If you look through SP23-101-2004 or a similar but later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that calculating the thickness of the insulation is not so easy.

Each building is “individual”. When developing a project and approving it, such thermal calculations are made by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters are taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, duration of the heating season, average number of sunny days), type and area of ​​glazing of the house, heat capacity flooring, roof insulation and basement. Even the number of metal connections between the wall and the cladding matters.

But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new standards introduced in 2003 are much stricter than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters “ standard thickness» insulation – 50, 100 and 150 mm. And here the accuracy of calculations is not needed. There is a diagram that shows the equivalent thickness dimensions different materials(in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.


Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation Source legkovmeste.ru

And then it’s simple. They take the thickness of a wall made of a certain material and see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the outside wall of the house should be added. Taking into account that the wet facade also has a layer of plaster, and the ventilated one has an air layer, plus interior finishing façade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.

And the question of insulation of the roof, floors and choice good windows decided separately.

It’s even easier to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.

How to properly install insulation on a facade

Before installation, the façade must be prepared: cleaned of old decoration, remove dirt and dust, dismantle hanging elements of engineering systems, remove ebbs and canopies (you will still have to replace them with wider ones), remove signs, plates and façade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips must be repaired, crumbling areas must be cleaned, and a deep penetration primer must be applied.


Application of primer composition Source rmnt.ru

For securely fastening polystyrene foam or rigid mineral wool mats in the system wet facade The surface of the wall should be as smooth as the unevenness can be smoothed out with an adhesive solution. If the height difference is up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with unevenness from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of “cakes” on 40% of the slab surface.

The first row of slabs is mounted with emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets the horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are placed with a vertical seam shift (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of ​​the joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the slabs do not intersect in their corners. Each slab is additionally secured with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.

Before applying plaster, the surface of the slabs is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of a layer of adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.

The density of polystyrene foam is chosen to be 25-35 kg/m3.

Video description

Visually about mineral wool insulation in the video:

Russian mineral wool mats brands for the “wet facade” system they must correspond to index 175, imported ones must be marked “facade” and have a density above 125 kg/m3.

Attention. In the “wet facade” system, the insulation is installed in only one (!) layer. A vertical surface made of two layers of “soft” slabs loaded with plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be fooled by arguments that the second layer of slabs overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates “cold bridges”.

The ventilated facade uses rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after attaching them to the sheathing, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.

The spacing of the lathing is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the sheathing, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels.

The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.

Important. The size of 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air spaces.

To ventilate the layer in the cladding, inlet openings are installed in the base area and outlet openings are installed under the roof eaves. The total area of ​​the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of wall.


Ventilation grilles in the wall Source tproekt.com

As a result, is it worth insulating?

Insulating your home is a profitable investment even in the short term. The investment will quickly pay for itself by reducing heating and air conditioning costs.

Our website also presents companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of Low-Rise Country houses.

How to choose best insulation for the walls of the house outside. The most comfortable temperatures for residential premises are temperatures in the range of 20-25ºС and humidity from 50 to 60%. To ensure such a microclimate in the house, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the walls. The optimal exterior is selected taking into account the material of construction and must meet a number of requirements. The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is its thermal conductivity coefficient. The smaller this value, the better the material prevents heat loss into the environment.

Fact! A home loses up to 30% of its heat through the walls.

How best to insulate the walls of a house

There are two ways to insulate a building - use internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house outside. Which insulation is better to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - “dew point”.

Thermal insulation of the room from the outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

Dew point is the temperature value at which condensation occurs. The point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on physical properties wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The dew point position will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and thermal calculations for thickness.

What is the best way to insulate walls outside?

Each type of modern insulation for exterior walls of a house has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

  • low thermal conductivity coefficient;
  • minimum values ​​of water absorption and vapor permeability;
  • the ability to regulate the indoor microclimate;
  • high sound absorption rates;
  • environmental cleanliness;
  • fire resistance and fire safety;
  • resistance to chemical attack;


Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

  • resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
  • strength and durability;
  • elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
  • low weight;
  • possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
  • ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
  • ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account how the consumer prefers to install insulation for the walls of the house outside. Videos showing the possibility self-execution Nowadays you can find enough works (as well as other manuals).


The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the room from moisture and are selected taking into account the climate and depending on the installation method. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of thermal insulation material. Most often used the following types insulation:

  • expanded polystyrene (foam);
  • extruded polystyrene foam (eps, penoplex);
  • polyurethane foam;
  • mineral wool;
  • basalt insulation;
  • liquid thermal insulation.


Polystyrene foam is a popular material for insulating exterior walls of a house.

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymer insulation materials for house walls and is used in this capacity in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial. First of all, this material is characterized by low thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high sound insulation and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic 50 mm thick is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of heat retention.


Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and light weight

Among its other advantages are flexibility and light weight. This helps reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, and reduces the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability, however low price makes it possible to insulate all external walls of the house with foam plastic.

Extruded polystyrene foam (eps, penoplex)

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its production, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.


Insulation of walls with penoplex followed by cladding with siding

The thermal conductivity coefficient of penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 – 0.031 W/m*K. It is resistant to mold, chemicals, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator. Thanks to this, it is possible to use penoplex as insulation outside: for the walls of wooden houses and other buildings, and inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing “warm” floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of total weight product. Due to this, the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W/m*K.


Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam has a high level of adhesion to all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing. A seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity makes polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown-in thermal insulation when insulating walls outside buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for external walls using the blow-in method can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.


Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as blow-in insulation between the building wall and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool (basalt insulation, stone wool, glass wool)

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. It is characterized by strength, non-flammability, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 – 0.037 W/m*K.


Mineral wool is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, has a high degree of sound absorption and is low cost.

For insulation work, mineral wool is used in the form basalt slabs or in rolls in a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as insulation for the outside walls of a house. The dimensions of the produced slabs can be as follows:

  • 1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
  • 7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
  • 9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
  • 10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
  • 10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.


Expanded polystyrene boards may have joint grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings for any purpose, especially for insulation in dachas, wooden houses and buildings made of timber, brick or foam blocks. It is possible to work with this material at temperatures ranging from -60ºС to +220ºС, which is definitely convenient when installing on walls outside. Insulation in dachas, houses made of wood, brick or foam blocks, garages, warehouses and other buildings - this is an incomplete list of possibilities for using mineral thermal insulation.


It is most preferable to use mineral wool to insulate the outside of the house followed by siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of a house outside under the siding. The use of mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blow-in insulation is also popular. With this method, using a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and the finishing facade, which also serves as formwork.

Liquid thermal insulation

Liquid thermal insulation materials can be called new generation insulation materials. They can also be used for thermal insulation. metal parts(pipes or frames), and as insulation for houses made of foam blocks. On the outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint. However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.


Liquid insulation is similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid insulation has a record low thermal conductivity coefficient (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W/m*K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity coefficient of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and complex equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using painting tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns- and fill all the voids and cracks. After 6 hours of drying, a solid, highly mechanically resistant coating is formed.


Fixing sheets of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out with special fastenings of the “mushroom” type.

Due to their low thermal conductivity, liquid insulation for house walls helps reduce heat loss, even if applied outside thin layer. They protect the surface from weather influences (operating temperature range - from -60 to +260°C), solar radiation and precipitation, and metal parts - from corrosion.

Interesting! Water absorption of most liquid insulation materials within 24 hours does not exceed 0.4% by weight.

Coating liquid insulation is one of the effective ways to prevent the formation of condensation and protect industrial or residential premises from freezing and the development of all types of mold fungi.

Ways to insulate the walls of a house from the outside

Most modern insulation systems are universal and can be mounted outside the house on any walls: wood, timber, foam blocks, red or white brick; as well as for various types of external finishing: plaster, vinyl siding, decorative brick, stone facade slabs. After reviewing all the characteristics, you can choose the appropriate type of wall insulation. The outside of houses made of timber is insulated in the same way as buildings made of other materials. Based on the variety of existing thermal insulation materials, for each type of wall in combination with its finishing, the best installation option is selected:

  1. Installation of insulation under plaster.
  2. Three-layer non-ventilated wall.
  3. Ventilated facade.


Examples of wall insulation followed by brick cladding

Installation of insulation under plaster

When installing insulation under plaster, for exterior walls of houses, polystyrene foam, basalt insulation boards, sheets of mineral wool or penoplex insulation are most often used as a heat insulator. The insulation is fixed to the outside walls of the house using an adhesive solution and reinforced with fiberglass reinforcing mesh. Special “mushroom” type fasteners provide additional fixation of foam sheets or basalt insulation slabs. For the exterior walls of the house, plaster (the “wet facade” method) or facing materials are used as finishing materials.


“Wet façade” insulation system

Three-layer non-ventilated wall

A three-layer non-ventilated wall is formed by the outside walls of the house, insulation and facade finishing, laid out taking into account the air gap. This method is used for installation with exterior brick finishing for the walls of a house. Various types of insulation materials are used in this option, including heat-insulating materials for blow-in installation. This method is used for insulating various buildings, both brick or foam concrete, and wooden or timber.


Non-ventilated façade with blow-in insulation

Facade finishing is carried out with facing slabs, decorative or building bricks.

Ventilated facade

Insulation insulation for a ventilated facade is assembled from the following layers:

  • waterproofing;
  • insulation;
  • wind protection;
  • finishing facade cladding (lining, siding, panels).


The principle of arranging a ventilated facade

Installation of insulation as part of a ventilated facade is the most preferable option, since heat losses minimized due to wind protection. Waterproofing is also provided additional protection wall surfaces from exposure to moisture. The use of a ventilated facade is possible with most types of buildings, materials and configurations of external walls and varieties facade finishing. This option is most common when installing insulation for the walls of a house outside under siding. Also, this installation method is the best for insulating the outside walls of wooden houses: made of logs or timber.


Insulated walls can be lined with material to suit every taste

Regardless of the variety and type of material used as a heat insulator, any of the installation options mentioned must cope with the main tasks - insulation of the room, waterproofing of walls, protection from wind and drafts, as well as heat retention. An undoubted advantage of most of the materials mentioned in the article is the ability to independently install them as insulation for the walls of a house outside. Photos and videos, as well as other instructions, will be very useful.

Insulation of the walls of a house is carried out when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat sufficiently.

All devices for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but the heat is not retained.

By carrying out thermal insulation, you can ensure a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because a wall is a vulnerable place in a house that experiences high wind loads.

If the walls are not insulated sufficiently, the cold easily penetrates into the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual decision. A less popular method of insulation is from the inside. With this method, the area of ​​the room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays important role in deciding the method of thermal insulation in favor of external works on insulation. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture occurring inside the wall, this is especially true in regions with high humidity.

Insulation of walls from the outside is carried out significantlymore often. This method requires more costs, but the internal living space in the house is preserved, which is important especially in houses whose area is already small.

Methods of wall insulation

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many insulation materials, those that best suit their physical characteristics and thermal insulation properties.

What is the best way to perform external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation, are:

  • (good thermal insulator, resistant to deformation, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
  • (low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature changes, but is vapor-tight, susceptible to rodents);
  • (durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
  • (excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-flammable, durable, but during installation it releases harmful formaldehydes);
  • (waterproofing, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, durability, no seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, it shrinks during application, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
  • glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxic, but due to the fragility of the fibers requires additional protection);
  • fiberboard(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but at all positive properties short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
  • cork material(lightweight, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

Choice of insulation

Differences in insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick houses

The method of insulation depends on what material the walls of the house are made of. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, we can highlight the following points that deserve attention:

  • unlike brick walls and aerated concrete houses, prerequisite installation is the installation of lathing to ensure ventilation. Installation of sheathing block walls performed only under or other suspended cladding;
  • the most suitable insulation materials for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance (penoplex, expanded polystyrene), while for wooden houses, the ideal insulation is breathable mineral wool slabs;
  • thermal conductivity brick wall higher than that of aerated concrete, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
  • with external insulation wooden house the surface should be carefully prepared by treating it with antiseptics;
  • Most often, attaching the layers of a wooden wall requires the installation of chipboard or OSB sheathing.

In addition, you should keep in mind all the indicators of the materials from which the walls are built, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and heat resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls

Before purchasing insulation, you must correctly calculate thickness of the purchased material.

An indicator of the thickness of a material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the readings of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the thermal conductivity coefficient for each material, use the formula:

P=R/K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is an indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the packaging).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from three. This results in the thickness of the material required for insulation.

Wall pie device

A wall pie is a collection of layers of materials that are laid vertically in a certain order.

Each layer of the wall pie has its own laying characteristics. If the sequence of layers is disrupted, there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The construction of a wall pie for external insulation must correspond to the order of laying materials, starting with inside walls:

  • interior decoration;
  • internal load-bearing layer (plasterboard, sheathing);
  • vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
  • load-bearing wall;
  • insulation;
  • waterproofing (depending on insulation);
  • sheathing;
  • ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
  • finishing.

Wooden wall pie

This scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is timber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall pie is slightly different:

  • interior decoration;
  • Brick wall;
  • insulation;
  • ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
  • load-bearing layer on the outside or sheathing (if it is necessary to install façade materials);
  • finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

"Wet" wall cake

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing for external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as an external wall finish. With vertical siding, the sheathing is attached horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal siding - vertically.

The sheathing can be made from wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing made of beams

Before you start lathing, you need to prepare the beams: treat them with an antifungal agent.

  • saw off the beam of the required size;
  • secure the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to preliminary markings;
  • secure the timber as guides along the right and left sides of the wall;
  • If there is no thermal insulation, then the beam must be attached to the wall by drilling holes for dowels and securing it with self-tapping screws.

Perform lathing along the entire wall; if necessary, level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing made of beams

Profile lathing

The metal profile should be secured using hangers and brackets.

Installation of metal sheathing:

  • fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left so that there is at least 100 mm from the corner to the guide;
  • According to the markings, drill holes for dowels and attach brackets along the entire wall;
  • if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation boards are pinned onto the brackets;
  • lay a vapor barrier in the same way as insulation;
  • install metal profiles along the edges of the wall;
  • Use a thread to set the height of the profile and secure the profile along the entire wall;
  • between the elements, fasten stiffening ribs from the remains of the profile.

NOTE!

It is better to choose metal profiles for siding with curved edges.

It is best to use a good quality aluminum profile.

Profile lathing

Why do you need a counter-lattice?

Lathing and counter-lattice are concepts that are often confused. The lathing is necessary for attaching covering elements to it.

The counter-lattice is attached perpendicular to the sheathing and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time secures the water barrier.

Counter battens must be installed in the walls on the sheathing or on the rafters.

The walls of houses equipped with counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated facade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

  • by applying a special solution to the walls;
  • by using additional materials(waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing felt. Glue it vertically, overlapping, removing any air bubbles that have formed and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials, special plaster waterproofing is used.

Waterproofing mineral wool

When installing a vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the wall surface from the outside and allow moisture to pass through from the walls.

Installation of vapor barrier films comes down to the following rules:

  • they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
  • provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
  • Lay the film overlapping, glue the joints, secure the film with staples.

If the vapor barrier is installed on a round beam, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap. In the case of square boards, this is a must.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective insulation mineral wool walls the surface should be prepared for subsequent installation work : clear debris, seal cracks, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach hangers.

  • laying mineral wool slabs from bottom to top between the guide posts end-to-end, placing the material on hangers and attaching with dowel nails;
  • seal the cracks with pieces of insulation;
  • cover vapor barrier membrane similar to insulation;
  • attach racks to hangers;
  • then proceed to cladding.

Metal sheathing

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If wooden beams are used, then insulation with mineral wool is somewhat different:

  • Attach the beams to the prepared wall with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
  • the insulation is laid end-to-end between the posts, secured with a pair of dowels, and the cracks are sealed polyurethane foam;
  • if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-battens are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
  • a diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
  • install a counter-lattice, which serves as the basis for fastening the siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall pie.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam plastic

To insulate the walls of a private house from the outside, you can use polystyrene foam. The procedure for foam insulation involves the sequence of work performed:

  • preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, priming);
  • applying the necessary markings;
  • attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for the even laying of the first row of slabs;
  • attach the foam by applying the adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is fastened in a cross pattern;
  • after the glue has completely dried, secure the foam with umbrellas;
  • The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, if large, with pieces of polystyrene foam. After hardening, excess foam is cut off;
  • To finish slopes and corners, you should use special corners that are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Fastening sheets

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with polystyrene foam., since with breathable wood it is better to use porous insulation that can allow moisture and air vapor to pass through.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

Basic insulation mistakes

External insulation of the walls of a country house must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules for installing materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flow and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of the thermal insulation qualities:

  • incorrect calculation of thermal resistance;
  • if there is no base strip at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
  • Expanded polystyrene should not be left in the sun for a long time during installation;
  • cracks between insulation boards lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
  • Expansion dowels should be installed at the corners of the building and around doors and windows to securely fasten the material.

In addition, you should not skimp on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the low quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when insulating walls, the living space is preserved; careful consideration of details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in video instructions:

In contact with

Content

Not only comfort, but also people’s health depends on the microclimate in the house. Optimal temperature for a living space is 20–25°C, and the humidity level is 50–60%. If winters are harsh, much of the heat energy is lost through the walls, roof, door and window openings. To retain heat as much as possible, wall structures must be insulated.

Choosing insulation for the outside walls of a house

It is recommended to insulate a private house outside, since internal insulation has many disadvantages. Insulation for the external walls of a house is not uncommon on the market. Therefore, in order to select a quality material, it is enough to take into account when choosing technical specifications and installation features. This way you can choose the ideal thermal insulation.

Principles of insulating the external walls of a house

It is important to understand why façade insulation is a priority over thermal insulation of residential premises from the inside. There are situations when it is not possible to install heat-insulating material and external finishing of the building from the outside; in these cases, internal insulation is the only possible option.

The problem is the location of the “dew point” - the place where heat meets cold, causing condensation to form. And in a living room, moisture is always present in the air due to evaporation from bodies, breathing, and the use of water for domestic needs.

The dew point in an uninsulated wall is located approximately in the middle of the enclosing structure. This means that the wall is picking up moisture from the room. If you install thermal insulation on the inner surface of the walls, the structure will freeze through and the slightest access of warm humid air over the insulating layer will lead to condensation - the wall will get wet under the insulation.

Experts say that it is better to insulate the house from the outside. In this case, the wall structures will be insulated from contact with cold air, as a result of which the walls will not freeze. Depending on the insulation technology used on the outside, the moist warm air that passes through the wall:

  • will not come into contact with the cold, since the insulating layer is mounted directly on the wall structure;
  • gets into the ventilation gap between the wall and the heat insulator, the moisture will quickly evaporate, due to which there will be no conditions for the wall to get wet - with external insulation, the dew point is located outside the structure.

To choose the best option for external insulation, you need to take into account the characteristics of the materials from which the house is built, as well as the technical characteristics of the heat insulators.

Properties of thermal insulators


Thermal insulation with mineral glass wool

Insulation for a home, regardless of the type of construction, is characterized by a low thermal conductivity. But heat insulators are compared not only by this parameter. It is equally important to evaluate other characteristics that affect the durability, safety and functional properties of the material for external insulation:

  • indicators of vapor permeability and water absorption;
  • impact on the microclimate of the room;
  • resistance to aggressive environments;
  • fire resistance;
  • environmental friendliness and health safety;
  • resistance to biological damage (mold, rodents, insects);
  • physical and mechanical parameters (including tendency to shrinkage, resistance to mechanical stress, elasticity, etc.);
  • noise-absorbing properties;
  • installation technology and ease of work;
  • the ability to create a seamless thermal insulation coating;
  • possibility of application on surfaces of complex configuration with a large number of hard-to-reach places;
  • strength and long service life.

When designing wall insulation, it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer using the thermal conductivity value of the selected material. Pay attention to the indicators of water absorption and vapor permeability of the insulation, because they affect the technology of installation work.

Types of heat insulators


Examples of various thermal insulators

Present on the market different kinds insulation for walls, each of which has its own advantages. Thermal insulation of the facade is most often carried out using:

  • foam plastic (expanded polystyrene);
  • extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, eps, extruded polystyrene foam);
  • sprayed polyurethane foam;
  • mineral wool (basalt);
  • liquid thermal insulation.

Choose good thermal insulation should take into account the material from which the wall is built, as well as the planned option for external decoration.

Styrofoam


Thermal insulation of external walls using foam plastic

Expanded polystyrene boards are actively used for external thermal insulation building structures. Advantages of polymer material: light weight, easy installation, moisture resistance, affordable price. In addition, the heat insulator does not become a haven for fungus and is not damaged by insect pests. If you prevent ultraviolet radiation from entering the insulation, the material will last more than 50 years.

At the same time, the material also has a number of serious disadvantages - it is flammable and easily damaged by rodents. With a density of less than 35 kg/m3, the foam has a loose structure, and it is vapor permeable due to the pores between the interconnected foamed polymer granules. The denser the material, the higher its thermal insulation properties.

Extruded polystyrene foam


Insulation with polystyrene foam

EPPS, penoplex is a foamed polymer material with a closed cell structure. Polymer insulation for thermal insulation of a house has the same advantages, but extruded polystyrene foam differs for the better from polystyrene foam:

  • low flammability (combustion is maintained only with constant contact with the flame; in the absence of a fire source, the material extinguishes itself);
  • vapor tightness;
  • resistance to damage by rodents.

EPS is widely used as external insulation; if graphite nanoparticles are used in its production, the material has higher energy-saving properties and strength.

Spray polyurethane foam


An example of insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam

PPU is a heat-insulating material with a closed-cell structure. Due to the fact that 90% of the weight is air enclosed in the cells, modern insulation is characterized by low thermal conductivity.

Polyurethane foam is resistant to biological damage, does not spread fire, and due to its low weight, such wall insulation does not load structures and foundations. The material is moisture- and gas-proof and provides an airtight coating.

The spraying method allows the use of polyurethane foam to create seamless elastic thermal insulation on surfaces of any configuration. Polyurethane foam has high adhesion and adheres reliably to any type of base - wood, brick and block structures.

The disadvantages of polyurethane foam include the high cost and the need to use professional equipment during installation.

Mineral wool


Thermal insulation of walls using mineral wool

Fibrous materials for insulating walls outside are stone wool, slag wool, glass wool. The type of mineral wool depends on the raw materials used. They can be waste from glass production and the metallurgical industry, or molten rock (basalt).

To choose the right mineral wool heat insulator, you should take into account that slag wool is not environmentally friendly; it is better for insulating non-residential buildings. Glass wool tends to cake over time, losing its thermal insulation properties. Perfect option– basalt wool, which holds its shape well, does not burn, is easy to install, dampens sound waves, is not afraid of biological damage and is durable.

Basalt wool can be used to insulate walls made of building blocks, bricks, and timber. Work on thermal insulation of the facade is carried out at any temperature.

The fibrous material is vapor permeable and capable of absorbing moisture, which requires its reliable vapor barrier when installing internal insulation and external thermal insulation under the casing. Moisture condensation reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material.

However, vapor permeability is a useful property if the thermal insulation of external walls made of “breathable” materials is carried out using the “plastered” technology. In such a situation, moist warm air from the room passes through the mineral wool and is discharged outside, and a favorable microclimate is maintained in the house.

Liquid thermal insulation


Application of liquid thermal insulation

Liquid thermal insulation is an innovative material for insulation wall structures outside. It is used for processing metal structural elements (prevents the formation of cold bridges), as well as for insulating walls made of foam blocks, bricks, and wood.

The ceramic multicomponent composition visually looks like paint, but has a porous structure with vacuum voids. The total volume of voids reaches 80% of the material, due to which thermal insulation properties are ensured.

The list of advantages of the material includes:

  • integrity of the coating, absence of seams;
  • a simple method of applying to walls from the outside (using a roller, brush or vacuum sprayer);
  • Possibility of application on surfaces of any configuration;
  • resistance of the heat-protective layer to external influences (high and low temperatures, moisture, ultraviolet radiation, mechanical damage);
  • decorative appearance (the building does not require finishing on top of the insulating layer);
  • protection of structures (protects metal from corrosion, wood from UV radiation and moisture);
  • resistance to biological damage.

Using liquid thermal insulation, you can successfully insulate the facade of a private residential house, outbuilding, or industrial facility.

Methods of external insulation

The materials used to insulate the outside of a house are mostly universal and suitable for wall structures built from any materials. But it is important to understand how insulation will affect the wall’s ability to “breathe” with a particular installation technology. Pay attention to the external finish on the outside of the insulation. As a rule, plaster, facade panels, siding, and facing bricks are used.

There are three main ways to insulate a building from the outside:

  • fastening the heat insulator under the plaster;
  • arrangement of a non-ventilated three-layer system;
  • installation of a ventilated facade.

The application of liquid heat-insulating composition has not yet become widespread.

Insulation of walls under plaster


“Pie” of the wall when thermally insulated with mineral wool

For installation under plaster, slab insulation is used for the external walls of the house. The material is attached using special glue and umbrella fasteners to the leveled walls ( wooden structures pre-treated with an antiseptic). Sheathing elements are mounted “in a staggered manner” so that there are no long connecting seams.

Then plaster is applied with the obligatory use of mesh for reinforcement. To prevent the plaster layer from falling off the polymer insulation over time, it is recommended to treat its smooth surface with an abrasive for better adhesion and use a plaster material with high adhesion.

When choosing a heat insulator, it is important to consider:

  • If you use polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam as insulation material, the house turns into a thermos, since these materials are vapor-proof. To prevent the walls from becoming damp from the inside, the house must have effective exhaust ventilation.
  • By using mineral wool, you will maintain the vapor permeability of the wall, but provided that the plaster is not painted with acrylic paint, since it creates a film.

Non-ventilated three-layer system


Section of a wall during installation of a non-ventilated three-layer system

Used if wall material brick or blocks. The procedure for insulating walls when installing a three-layer non-ventilated system:

  • a heat insulator of any type is attached to the wall using glue or spraying;
  • with an indentation for an air gap, the external cladding of the house from decorative brick is installed.

If you insulate a house using this technology with foamed polymer, you need to take care of good ventilation, since the walls stop “breathing.” The advantages of the technology include the ability to create a beautiful brick facade of the house. You can also install façade panels.

Ventilated facade


Insulation of walls using a ventilated facade

The most common option provides the possibility of covering the house with siding, decorative panels, clapboard The materials for thermal insulation of the facade can be mineral wool, EPS boards, or polystyrene foam.

The design of the “pie” is as follows:

  • sheathing of boards to create a ventilation gap;
  • fastening of hydro-vapor barrier;
  • lathing (on boards) for laying heat insulation;
  • insulation in the resulting sections;
  • windproof film;
  • counter-lattice to create an air gap;
  • finishing cladding with the selected material.
Note! A common mistake is to install waterproofing directly on the wall of the house. In this case, the vapor permeability of the structure is lost.

Conclusion

To prevent a wall insulated from the outside from becoming damp and moldy, it is necessary to use a technology that does not interfere with its vapor permeability, or it is necessary to install a high-quality ventilation system.

A comfortable temperature for living is in the range of 20−25 ° C and humidity from 50 to 60%. In order to have such a microclimate in the house, you need to insulate the walls. The optimal insulation for the walls of a house is selected taking into account the material itself and must meet a number of requirements. The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is its thermal conductivity coefficient.

Each type of modern insulation for house walls has its own characteristics and characteristics, as well as a price range. You need to choose a material taking into account its characteristics.

The main differences between insulation:

It is also important to consider the method in which the consumer prefers to install insulation for the exterior walls of the home. The video shows the possibility of independent work.

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the entire room from moisture, selected taking into account the climate and depending on the installation method. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate required thickness thermal insulation material.

The following types of materials are most often used for external wall insulation:

  • expanded polystyrene;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • mineral wool;
  • basalt insulation;
  • liquid thermal insulation, etc.

External wall insulation gives a much better effect than insulating a house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering, and this prolongs the life of the entire structure. Installation of insulation is not required special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily handle this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials are available for the walls outside and how to fix them correctly.

Advantages of installing insulation to save heat:

  1. When installing wall panels, protection against sudden temperature changes at different times of the year is guaranteed. Therefore, the scheme will protect residents from severe frosts, but will also protect them from the heat in summer. When the work is done well, cold bridging and heat loss are prevented.
  2. Such a device does not affect the size of the building and its total area.
  3. Insulation installed outside protects the interior from mold and dampness.
  4. Carrying out insulation does not require a lot of time and money. Thermal insulation using special materials provides a sufficient level of protection for the building.
  5. Improves appearance walls, the level of sound insulation increases.

All benefits are similar for each material, but some require thicker layers or money to purchase and installation of large layers of thermal insulation.

The main task of wall insulation- create comfortable conditions while minimizing space heating costs.

First, you should consider the existing technology for thermal insulation of external walls.

Most often, they resort to external insulation of the building’s prefabricated wall. This approach is capable of maximally solving all the main problems of thermal insulation and preserving walls from freezing and related negative phenomena damage, weakening, corrosion of building materials.

So, plaster with an insulated surface (often called “Thermal Coat”) is quite difficult to perform independently if the home owner does not have stable plastering skills. The process is quite dirty and labor-intensive, but the total cost of materials is usually less than other types.

There is also an “integrated approach” to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facade cladding panels, the design of which already provides a layer of thermal insulation. Plaster work is not expected in this case - After installation you only need to seal the seams between the tiles.

These materials are essentially a small air bubble in a polystyrene shell. Air does not move through them, and they perform the function of insulation well. Polystyrene has a low cost, which increases its popularity. Although he has almost no shortcomings. The main ones are fragility and popularity with rats and mice.

But as thermal insulation for walls outside, foam is very good. It is quite suitable for further plastering or exterior finishing. artificial stone or wall panels.

E that material is expensive, but at the same time its technical characteristics are much better. The most famous of these wall insulation materials can be called penoplex. This is enough durable material, although it has a porous structure. It is very convenient to plaster. Installation is carried out using special mastics and adhesive bases without the use of acetone, but the best option for external decoration we can call special plastic fasteners.

For rodents and various pests, such insulation is of no interest. In addition, in its production, substances are used that are not susceptible to fungal formations. This type of insulation has no actual disadvantages, other than high cost. Its weight is light, which allows one person to work on insulating the outside of the house without help.

This material has been known for a long time and has found application not only as a thermal insulator. Used as a filler in armchairs and sofas, car seats. To put it simply, this is a foaming agent that is known to every person.

As insulation, it can only be used under panels. Its soft structure does not allow plastering. Although some home owners, using it as insulation, after covering it with plywood or chipboard, can plaster the wall.

Its huge disadvantage is its instability to high temperatures. Moreover, thanks to its chemical composition This thermal dielectric, when ignited, releases very toxic substances that are easy to poison, unlike extruded polystyrene, which does not burn.

Many are now talking about the harm that phenol supposedly releases from this material. However, the opinions of scientists are divided here. Some say that this is a completely neutral material, while others say that it is very harmful to the body. It is worth limiting ourselves to finding out the facts - this material is used nowadays in almost all furniture, in cars and even as a filler for pillows.

Mineral wool as a heat insulator

This insulation can be used inside building blocks or in external thermal insulation of walls, followed by siding or wall panels. It is most widespread in the construction of ventilated facades and insulation of soft roofs. Most often, various slabs of a certain size with basalt insulation, the price of which is relatively low, are used for this purpose.

Mineral wool has higher thermal conductivity and vapor permeability than previous versions. That is why it is the cheapest insulator. With its use, there is enough heat in the house. A rather unpleasant thing to note is that when working with mineral wool, the skin begins to itch. In addition, this is a rather fragile thermal insulation of the external walls. But for insulation such as a ventilated façade, such an insulator is practically irreplaceable.

Outdoor use of ecological wool

To insulate ecowool, it is also necessary to arrange a frame for wall cladding. First, the frame is made. Then insulation is applied to the wall, which consists of cellulose mixed in certain proportions with water. Ecowool is glued to the wall, forming a continuous, seamless thermal insulation layer. After drying, the excess is removed, which is located outside the outer plane of the frame. Then the sheathing is made and siding or similar material is laid.

Applying warm plaster

The positive qualities of the insulation process is the use of the right layer warm plaster . In some situations you can do without using reinforcing mesh. Preliminary surface leveling is not required for these insulating materials. This can be done with the plastic layer itself.

Before applying plaster, it is advisable to treat the outer surface with an abrasive material. This is convenient to do using electromechanical devices, but manual processing is also allowed.

You need to know that the use of polystyrene foam films is prohibited in rooms with increased requirements for fire safety, for example, in hospitals, kindergartens, etc. In this case, it is necessary to use warm plasters.

This technique, among other things, has a number of disadvantages:

  • such a surface cannot be completed quickly;
  • Before applying the layer, the walls should be treated with a primer;
  • work is performed only on a dry wall;
  • the material has poor soundproofing properties;
  • Warm plaster requires a solid base.

The term "liquid insulation" for walls and other structures is simply slang among consumers. This material is somewhat different from others.

The material is a mastic or paint, which includes:

  • hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02−0.1 mm in diameter), made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
  • microporous particles of titanium dioxide;
  • More often a binding component, acrylic or latex, is used.

Since the consistency of the material is liquid, it is used on treated surfaces in the usual ways: using a brush, roller or spray. At the same time, a thin film is formed on the surface - at least 1 mm. And this is enough for thermal protection.

But why does such a thin coating create an insulating effect? Here you need to understand how heat flows through the walls of a house:

Today, manufacturers of liquid insulation offer various compositions that are used for various building structures. Since the materials for insulating the walls from the outside are dismantled, it is necessary to select a mastic intended for application to the facades of the building. The name “Facade” is necessarily present in its name. For example, Korund-Facade. Although many of the universal Thermocols, for example, can be used for thermal insulation of external walls of buildings.

Criteria for choosing insulation for the external walls of a house

The main indicator by which a choice should be made is the thermal conductivity of the material. The smaller it is, the better it will be.

The second criterion is the hygroscopicity of the material. This property is designated as “absorbs moisture.” The fact is that moist air vapors penetrating inside the insulation begin to turn into ice when low temperatures, which will lead to the loss of all characteristics of the thermal insulation material. We learned to deal with this by closing the heating layer on both sides of the steam and waterproofing films. But these are the following material costs. Although in some cases this cannot be done.

The third criterion is strength. Outer side walls are the part where various loads pass, often mechanical.

The fourth rule of choice is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide line here, in which there is a very cheap materials and very expensive. Of course, quality is determined by price. But there are offers on the market in which the price-quality ratio is within optimal limits. Therefore, you should understand all the proposed insulation and choose not the most expensive ones, but with good technical and operational characteristics.

All of the above types of insulation for walls outside the house are now sold, which are widely used in cottages, country dachas And high-rise buildings. They all differ from each other in price and characteristics. There are a huge number of insulating materials on the market, and the choice is up to the consumer.